Panama Canal Authority – 2RetireInPanama?

I’ve talked at length in my book and newsletter about the amazing travel opportunities for retired people living in Panama. Part of the reason for our retirement location decision was the travel we wanted to do as we approached our golden years. We wanted a home where travel is essentially easy to destinations worldwide. Recently, we reported on the opening of the new cruise port on the Amador Causeway in Panama City. When Norwegian began servicing the port, we learned of an amazing cruise itinerary. It turns out that we were among several expat couples who noticed the extraordinary opportunity. We booked the cruise with no concern for air travel.

We traveled with two other couples from our home in Coronado by private shuttle on February 22. The cruise port is still not 100% complete due to construction delays caused by Covid, so our driver dropped us at the amazing, new convention center where our luggage was collected, documents were processed, and the immigration process was completed. We waited in the comfortable facility to be called in groups for shuttle to our ship. The Norwegian Jewel is one of the smaller ships on their fleet, however we were told that it was leaving port at full capacity (about 2400 passengers).

Newly completed Panama City Convention Center

The passengers were all checked in and comfortably settled into their staterooms by 3:00 and the beautiful ship pulled away from the dock headed to the Gulf of Panama to get in the que for the Panama Canal. We began exploring to find the restaurants and bars aboard. We had dinner overlooking the Gulf of Panama. Following dinner, we found entertainment that surpassed belief. The ship had vocal musicians and dancers/acrobats who entertained the passengers at several venues, including the Stardust theater where nightly shows played.

Our friends Maxine and Dave, John and Barbie

At 6:00 a.m., the ship began its transit of the Panama Canal. An esteemed member of the Panama Canal Authority, Mr. Jaime Robleto, gave a full narration of the history and construction of this amazing structure. As we passed through each lock and Lake Gatun, the ship moved effortlessly under the direction of the Panama Canal Pilot, who boarded and took control of the ship’s transit. It was amazing how quickly the day passed before going under the Atlantic Bridge and traveling out into the Caribbean. The Panama Canal Pilot had exited the ship, and the captain regained control for the overnight passage to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.

Whether drawn to beautiful scenery, fascinated by history, or craving adventure, the best way to explore Puerto Limon was to take home a story from an exciting shore excursion. We opted to take the Caribbean Train, Eco Cruise, and Countryside tour. We boarded the open-air train and traveled through the rainforest and banana groves of Costa Rica until reaching our tour bus and being transported to a canal adventure. We motored through mangroves where we witnessed wildlife indigenous to the Costa Rican paradise. Forgive me, but the opportunity for great pictures here was limited. Following our adventure, we were returned to the ship.

The ship left Costa Rica for travel to Curacao. The trip took us through the night and a full day at sea, during which we were able to enjoy the pools, spa, driving range, casino, sports courts, jogging track, and numerous other activities. We enjoyed the tribute to Elton John by Jeffrey Allen in the Stardust Theater after dinner. During the cruise we found ourselves also enjoying the music of Louis Razon in the Magnum Bar. Every stage on the ship offered different entertainment and it was often difficult to decide where to be.

Our cruise package gave us dinner at one of the premium restaurants. We opted for Cagney’s Steakhouse, where our group enjoyed prime rib which we rarely get in Panama. The dinner was a highlight of our trip and the only time we took pictures of the food. I must say, however that the food aboard was all spectacular with one exception. We checked in at Chin Chin for Asian Fusion one night, and everyone at the table was disappointed. Nobody finished their plate. The great thing about a cruise is if one place disappoints, there are others. We slipped into a different place later for appetizers and dessert. O’Sheehan’s Pub was open 24 hours and proved to be a favorite venue for some of our meals. We all enjoyed Azura for several dinners and The Palace for other dinners and breakfasts. We enjoyed the buffet for other breakfasts and a lunch or two. Most of us tried to avoid the buffet for portion control reasons.

On day 5 of our adventure, the captain parked the ship in the port at Willemstad, Curacao around 2:00 p.m. Willemstad is the capital of the Dutch Caribbean Island, Curacao and its beauty hit us as soon as the ship pulled into port. The island is known for its pastel-colored town square as vibrant as tropical flora. Unique to Willemstad is the floating pedestrian bridge that spans the deep and narrow channel splitting the city’s two districts. We opted to explore the shopping, a fort at the port, and have an ice-cold local beer at one end of the floating bridge. It was Sunday and we found several of the shops closed. After a couple of hours, we returned to the ship and continued to enjoy the onboard activities. We left port around 9:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to our next destination Bonaire.

We arrived at Kralendijk, Bonaire around 7:00 a.m. on day 6. The countless coral reefs surrounding its shore are home to more than 400 species of marine life, earning it the nickname diver’s paradise. Many on the ship took off for dive or snorkeling adventures, while others boarded a glass bottomed gondola for prime undersea views. Still others explored the Washington Slagbaii National Park which covers a fifth of the island. Bonaire offered endless outdoor adventures with a healthy dose of colonial charm. Our little group of adventurers opted for some local shopping. The ship departed at around 8:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to Aruba.

The ship docked at Oranjestad, Aruba at 7:00 a.m. on day 7. Oranjestad, Aruba is a bustling harbor city whose streets and malls are dotted with international luxury retailers, diverse boutiques, and dazzling jewelry stores. Fascinating restored landmark buildings can be found along the way, such as Fort Zoutman, Aruba’s oldest building dating back to 1798, which was built to protect the city from pirates. There’s also the Willem III Tower built in 1868. It was once a lighthouse and public clocktower. The Historical Museum, positioned between the two buildings, houses a permanent exhibition outlining the main events in Aruban history. We opted for a best of Aruba tour where we were treated with one of the best guides around. She drove our bus across most of the island stopping to allow us to explore some of the most talked about sites on there. We motored past Haystack before stopping at Casibari, a natural rock formation. We exited the bus and were allowed time to climb the rocks and explore. Once we returned to the bus, she drove us to a very interesting Aloe plantation and factory for a tour. Then we went to the California Lighthouse, all the way getting interesting history and information about “one happy island.” She drove us past all of the beaches and resorts before our final stop, where we were able to spend a few minutes at Eagle Beach. We saw wind surfers and pirate ships along the way. This was a private tour that we arranged outside the ship. She kindly dropped us near the shopping district, so we could explore before returning to the ship. The captain departed around 8:00 p.m. despite the fact that everyone had not returned. Must be that those 2 people were having much too fun and lost track of time. A cruise ship has to maintain a rigid schedule. This was the busiest of the ports we visited with at least 5 other cruise ships docked. Our next stop was Santa Marta.

on our way to Casibari Rocks the hill behind is called Haystack

After 1 day and 2 nights of onboard activities, we made landfall at 8:00 a.m. in Santa Marta, Colombia. Santa Marta is described as pure flavor. The city’s diversity is evident in its landscape, people, and every aspect of its culture. It’s a destination that truly embraces its visitors and makes them feel at home. Santa Marta’s beautiful terrain is its most distinguishing feature with unforgettable landscapes, green foliage, blue sea, yellow sun, and sand. The contrast between the beaches and the white peaked Sierra Nevada, makes Santa Marta a must-see destination. We opted for a full day journey to the Taironaka Indian Reserve. Our tour bus transported us through the city and into the highlands of the Seirra Nevada Mountains, where we exited and hiked to the reserve. This was a difficult hike for many of us and it wasn’t recommended for anyone over 60 years old, children, or anyone with medical conditions. Our tour group had all of these, and a medic hiked with us to the reserve. The reserve had been restored to resemble some of what it may have looked like when occupied by the indigenous people. A museum there contained artifacts uncovered and our guide filled us with history and culture of the people. These were believed to be the first inhabitants of the country. They were gold crafters who also made beautiful pottery, textiles, and baskets. The Spanish had looted their graves which contained gold, jewelry, and other artifacts. Fortunately, their only interest was the gold and much of the rest was left behind for us to enjoy. There was a river nearby and several of our fellow adventurers walked down to wade into its cool water before making the hike down. Our bus returned us to the ship. The exhausted passengers rested and recovered on the ride.

Hiking through a small village to the archeological site

The ship departed at 5:00 p.m. for the overnight journey to Cartagena. The crew on the ship told us that this was the first time they had stopped at Santa Marta.

We arrived on day 10 of our adventure at Cartagena, Colombia. Cartagena is a gorgeous fishing village on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. It has excellent beaches, a historic old town, and colonial architecture. Often considered one of the safest places in Colombia, it’s no wonder it’s a popular cruise port. The first thing one notices when exiting the port is the fabulous estuary between the dock and the street where taxis are available. Our small group got a taxi into the walled city. The taxis and traffic were brutal. The taxi drivers were trying to get usurious fares, and we negotiated before getting into one. Even with careful negotiations we paid $5 USD each for the hot uncomfortable ride. We explored part of the walled city and bought some small trinkets before returning to the ship. Our return taxi ended up costing a more reasonable $10 for four people.

Attacked by dancers wanting payment for a picture.

Once onboard the ship, we were all feeling sad that our cruise was coming to an end. The ship departed port at 3:00 p.m. for our final leg of the trip to Colon, Panama. We all went to our staterooms to pack. All luggage had to be in the hall by 9:00 p.m. We went for a final delicious meal at what had become one of our favorite restaurants, Azura. We visited some of our favorite crew members who had served us well on our journey and took in a final show at the Stardust Theater.

Our favorite Bar Server has just brought us a round of mini beers. He takes a mean selfie.

Forbidden shot during one of the acrobatic performances.

I woke early, showered, packed my carry-on bag, and went up on deck to enjoy our arrival to Colon. I was taken back by how beautiful the port town appeared as it slept. I know from experience that this is one of the most dangerous towns in the country. We had our private transportation picking us up on the dock. The extreme poverty was evident as our driver navigated his way to the highway and our return to Coronado.

Ships lined up as far as the eye can see for the canal southbound

Colon Barely visible is the Atlantic Bridge on the horizon

Jen and I are happy to be returning to a normal schedule of adventuring. Later this year, we will be visiting Riviera Maya in Mexico, where we will stay in a resort near Cancun. In December, we will be traveling to Peru where we will visit Machu Pichu and take an exploration into the Amazon Rainforest. From Peru, we plan to travel to the United States for a few days in Florida. Although the arrangements are still fuzzy, we are planning a cruise from Santiago, Chili around the entire continent of South America, which will conclude in Rio de Janeiro. That will be in March and April of next year. Stay tuned for more. If you want to hear about all our exciting travel, make sure you subscribe to get our blog delivered to your inbox. We will never spam you or sell your information.

Blessings from Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Our friends Lyn and Ty Gilbert are always in favor of going on an adventure and we rarely refuse an opportunity to explore with them. The four of us have the greatest time heading into the unknown. You may recall our adventures previously that took us to the end of the road. A little over a week ago they asked if we would like to go to Shelter Bay to explore the area.

Shelter Bay is at the north end of the Panama Canal. Previously the only access to the bay and its magnificent marina was by boat or a ferry ride across the north end of the Panama Canal. Recently the Atlantic Bridge across the canal was completed which made access to this area a little easier. When we reached the bridge it was a great surprise to find almost no one using it. At first glace I thought that this must be the bridge to nowhere. It basically starts and ends in dense jungle. When we reached the west side of the bridge the roads leading away were all narrow and rough. Ty says eventually a nice road will take people from the bridge to the new copper mine where he works. Otherwise there is a long stretch of undeveloped ocean front from there to Bocas del Toro. The Caribbean coast is very pretty but not as accessible as the Pacific The dense jungle has a little bit to do with how populated this area is.

Our first stop after crossing the bridge was the gate at Fort Sherman. Fort Sherman was a U.S. army base tasked with protecting the north end of the canal. The gate is protected by a Panamanian Aero-Naval company. We told them that we were going to Shelter Bay and they let us pass. Once inside the base we were amazed to see how the Panamanians had allowed the unused base to fall apart and deteriorate after the American military was pulled out. Panama uses some of the former U.S. Military buildings in the canal zone, but has little use for a lot of it. By the way, since President Carter returned the Panama Canal to the people of Panama it has done very well and even expanded under the management of The Panama Canal Authority. The Panamanian Government does not technically run the canal. It is owned by all the people and decisions for its operations are made by directors who are elected to their positions.

The barracks at Fort Sherman Army base are deserted.

Shelter Bay lies on the west side of the north end of the canal. It is on the Caribbean and like all of Panama is virtually exempt from hurricane activity. Many people from North America sail south to safety here during hurricane season. We found the marina which is on the former Fort Sherman Army base to be very busy and almost at capacity. The marina has a restaurant, pool, stores and just about anything people will need who typically live aboard their boat. They even have scheduled bus trips to Colon and Panama City for shopping and entertainment. We were there to pick up some paint for Ty and Lyn’s boat.

After we picked up Ty’s paint, we headed south through the jungle. After driving a couple of Kilometers we reached a ranger station for Parque National. The park is part of the extensive National Park system of Panama, however I could not find a name for it. Several of these guys came to meet us as we entered the park. They are called Coate’, and they are a little bit like a racoon. We found them very friendly and nearly as welcoming as a dog. They probably thought we would feed them.

Several kilometers of driving through the jungle in the park we found ourselves once again at the end of the road. The road ended where the Chagres River meets the Caribbean on a point where the early Panamanians protected the trade route. This place was called Fort San Lorenzo Castle. It is a protected historical site and it is a great place to explore. In the late 1400’s early settlers would take their wares by land from the Pacific to a place in the mountains near what is now Gamboa. From there they would travel down the Chagres River to the Caribbean. This trade route had to be protected from the pirates. The Chagres river is now the source of much of the water used for the operation of the Panama Canal.

We found Fort San Lorenzo very fascinating. As we traveled through the jungle we were doubtful that we would find other people at the end of the road. We did, however, find many people there exploring. The price of admission was $3.00. The fort lies on a point where the Chagres river meets the Caribbean Sea. We learned that the original fort was built in 1595. After the fort was built it was first attacked in 1596 by English pirate Sir Francis Drake. The fort was continuously attacked until the original wood fort was destroyed by Sir Henry Morgan in 1671. Morgan then went over land to attack Panama City. These pirates were very interested in this area because early settlers brought gold from South and Central America across land into the jungle high in the mountains near what is now Gamboa. There they took it in boats down the Chagres River to the Caribbean where it went by ship to America. This trade route had to be protected from these pirates. Fort San Lorenzo Palace was part of the triangle of protection which ran from Gamboa to here to the ruins near Portobelo called Fuerte San Jeronimo. We explored the ruins near Portobelo a few months back. Clicking on the Fuerte San Jeronimo link will take you back to that post. Fort San Lorenzo was rebuilt of stone in 1680, which lasted until an attack in 1740. In 1768 it was once again rebuilt and in 1779 it was fortified. It is the remains of this fort that we explored on our visit. In 1980 UNESCO declared this and Fuerte San Jeronimo both World Heritage Sites. As I stood on the point looking over to the Chagres River and out into the Caribbean it was easy to imagine how the soldiers protected this area from the pirates. We were able to explore the moat, barracks, ammunition’s storage, and even get up close and personal with the cannons. Enjoy a few pictures from our adventure. A picture paints a thousand words, but there is no way to visually or verbally describe this place, and do justice. This is a must see if you are ever fortunate enough to visit this area.