Our Year in Review 2024

Without a doubt, 2024 was our biggest adventure year of retirement. We visited over seventeen different countries and saw some amazing sights. We celebrated a monumental birthday with my mom in Florida. I attended a writer’s conference in Greece with bestselling authors Jonas Saul and CC Humphries. We cruised on three ships to visit the Greek Isles, almost the entire perimeter of South America, including the Strait of Magellan (Cape Horn), and revisited the Caribbean. If I don’t yet have your attention, read on. I will share some amazing adventures and slip in a few incredible pictures.

In February, my sister Melinda, her husband Hunter, Jen, and I, along with our three daughters, their spouses, and grandchildren, gathered in Fort Myers, Florida, for a surprise party to celebrate our mom’s birthday. I wanted to share a few pictures from the party. It’s not often that a surprise of this magnitude can be executed with such precision. Great job, Melinda.

In March, Jen and I flew to Santiago, Chile, for a great South American adventure. Our detailed blog post about the trip is in the blog archives. We explored Santiago and some of the Chilian interior before boarding the Norwegian Star to sail the coast of South America for 24 days. Our journey ended in Rio de Janeiro. When blogging our year in review, I never intended to repost what I’ve already posted. If you missed the South America Adventure, I hope you will click the link here or on the sidebar.

The Norwegian Star

In May, we celebrated Jen’s birthday and entry into the American Social Security system. Our good, life-long friends from Michigan came to Panama to help celebrate. The week was full of local adventure and celebration.

We enjoyed a special six-course dinner hosted by Chef Aristoteles at Nazca 21. One of our favorite entertainers, Pascal Turner, entertained us while course after course was delivered to the table.

One of the places that our visitors always ask to visit is Valle de Anton. It’s always a place where repeat visitors want to return. We explored the Sunday Market and The Museo del Valle de Anton before having brunch at the Golden Frog. The restaurant is off the beaten path, but the food is good, and our server spoke English. Our guests enjoyed the delightful patio atmosphere.

We certainly took our guests to the beach and pool while they were here. They asked for relaxation over adventure, which was fine with us. 

Our visit wrapped up with a day of adventure in Panama City. We journeyed to Casco Viejo, where we toured St. Joseph Church (The Golden Altar Church), the Panama Canal Museum, the Mola Museum, and the I Love Panama Chocolate Company. We wrapped up the last day with a visit to the Panaviera at the top of the former Trump Tower (J.W. Marriott). We had a delightful meal there while the sun set on our visitors’ final day of adventure.

The five of us enjoying the sunset

A few days after our Michigan friends left, we welcomed our oldest granddaughter to Panama. Jen and I have decided to have each of the grandchildren to Panama just before their senior year of high school. The time we spent with Victoria was special for all of us. We adventured and explored every minute of the ten-day visit. If you missed the blog post about Victoria’s visit in June, I hope you will click the link here, Victoria’s Panama Adventure, or on the sidebar to check it out. We are proud of Victoria’s accomplishments. She has chosen to continue her education at the University of Alabama, Birmingham. She was accepted and offered substantial scholarships. Congratulations kiddo.

Exploring the Amador Causeway

In early September, we went whale watching with eight friends in a panga on the Gulf of Chiriqui. We all agreed that it was the best whale-watching trip we had taken. Our guide, Captain Jay, had the whales figured out perfectly. There were times when we had whales in all directions. Our hosts at El Regalo Resort booked our tour and hosted us in delightful rooms. The resort has five suites, and we occupied the entire place. Jenni and Carroll have made their place the best of the best in Boca Chica. They have a chef who never disappoints. Our breakfasts and dinners were perfectly prepared, and the bartender kept the drinks flowing while we swam in the beautiful pool. I am sharing a gallery of great pictures from our adventure below.  Adventuring in Panama never gets old, especially with good friends.

By the middle of September, we returned to the skies for the pinnacle of our 2024 travel.  We flew from Panama to Miami for an overnight layover. Then, we traveled to London, where we met some friends, Joanne and Kirk. They took us for the best fish and chips and gave us an all-star tour of London before returning us to the airport for our flight to Athens.

We left London on a late flight to Athens, Greece. We arrived in Greece, transferred to the port, and caught a ferry to the island of Amorgos. On the third day since leaving Panama, we arrived at the Lakki Village Resort by midafternoon. It was a long day of travel and time zone jumping. I don’t know if it was adrenaline or excitement, but jet lag never caught up with us. We got plenty of sleep on the transportation and layovers.

Amorgos was the site of my writing retreat with Chris (CC) Humphries and Jonas Saul. It was amazing. After we arrived and unpacked, there was time to explore the resort. Our entire writer’s group gathered for a beautiful welcome dinner. After dinner, there was time to get better acquainted poolside with the facilitators and attendees anxious to discuss writing.

At the first morning session, we introduced ourselves and discussed what we were writing and what we were looking for from the retreat. The guest authors discussed the industry and offered clarity on direction. I had face time with all of the great authors at the retreat. Jen and I had lunch with Chris Humphreys and his significant other, Kat.

Jen and I with Chris and Kat

The second-day program was The Mountain: Beginning the Novel and Finishing It! Award-winning historical, crime, and fantasy novelist Chris (CC) Humphreys revealed some of his secrets of successful writing. Chris broke the writing journey into stages and guided us through each stage using a blend of anecdotal examples. Later in the afternoon, we gathered for a writing exercise.

On the third day, we discussed the discipline of creating the novel, how much emotion should be on the page, and how to place the tension in the right spots to keep readers turning the pages. We discussed setting up the book to be psychologically pleasing to the reader, leaving them with the emotional experience readers read for. Reading is an emotional journey, so make them feel it, and they’ll love you for it and tell all their friends about you (your book). After our session, we walked together to the village for lunch at an amazing local place. We gathered for drinks and casual discussion in the late afternoon before our evening meal.

On the fourth day, we learned to write a good fight scene that entertains while advancing the plot and revealing the character. How characters fight can reveal as much about them as how they make love. A good author must chance to delve into the dark side to broaden and deepen their characters and plot. Fight and sex scenes are a huge opportunity for any writer to confirm a suspicion or to startle with a revelation. A “character in peril” keeps the pages turning.

Later in the afternoon, we toured the 11th-century monastery of Agia Anna and the white village of Chora.

On our last day of workshops, we discussed promotion outside social media. Chris Humphreys and Jonas Saul demonstrated how to get our work in front of readers through proven results. This concluded the educational portion of our week. I met with Jonas Saul and enjoyed an awesome one-on-one lunch meeting. He shared his thoughts with me on a sample from the rough draft of Mayhem in Eagle Cove, the second of the Detective Larry series. His kind words about my upcoming novel were informative and inspirational. It was clear that this workshop would be a turning point in my writing experience. Exciting things will happen over the next few months as I finish the draft and send it to the editor. By the way, Mr. Saul has agreed to edit the upcoming book.

After lunch, we gathered for a village hike. Jonas led the three-hour hike from the ancient village of Lagada to Tholaria and back to the hotel. The gallery of photos below is a few from the hike. In one village, we stopped at Jonas’s home, where he unselfishly invited us in to see where he and Rania write and live during the high season on Amorgos. We were back in time for pre-dinner drinks. I’ve talked very little about the food at the resort. We gathered as a group each night and enjoyed a family-style Greek meal. Every day of the retreat was filled with information and encouragement that drove each attendee to be their best. We all came from different countries and backgrounds and wrote different genres, but the ability to feed off the knowledge of one another was as wonderful as the learning portions of our time there.

With the retreat ended, we left the resort at 4:45 a.m. for a ferry departure at 5:45. The ferry took us to Athens, where our driver picked us up and took us to our hotel, Attalos. After unpacking and settling into the hotel, we toured the Acropolis Museum.

Sunday at 11:00 a.m., we saw the changing of the guards at Syntagma Square. This is considered the best time to see this happen, and we had a great spot to view it.

Later in the evening, we toured Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon at sunset and got some great pictures.

We arranged to explore the ruins of ancient Corinth and the Corinth Canal the following day. We enjoyed a scenic drive from Athens to Corinth along the shores of the Saronic Gulf. The journey took us past beautiful beaches and the spectacularly narrow Corinth Canal, built to link the Saronic and Corinth Gulfs during the 1890s. Like the Panama Canal, it required several attempts before finally being completed. First proposed in the third century B.C. it wasn’t completed until 1893. In stark contrast, it is sea-level with no locks, narrow, and one single channel. It is 4 miles long and eighty feet wide making it impassable by most modern ships.

We strolled around the relics of Corinth, once an influential ancient Greek and Roman city, and then visited the seaside town of Kehreai.

Upon returning to Athens, we spent time exploring Monastiraki Square. The square was less than a six-minute walk from our hotel, and we found great Greek restaurants, shops, and a market. We found a place to change some money to Euros and bought a charge block for our phones. Taking pictures and roaming quickly depletes our phone batteries.

To put things in perspective, we arrived in Athens ahead of our travel buddies Daniel and Laura. They had been in the country for a few days and preferred exploring the countryside in a rental car. We finally caught up with them two days before the departure of our Greek cruise. Together, we visited the sites of Athens, starting with the Acropolis and Parthenon. Our hotel had a magnificent rooftop bar with amazing views, but nothing compared with fighting through the crowds to get up-close and personal.

The Acropolis

From there, we used the hop-on, hop-off bus, a great way to travel from site to site. We visited many archaeological sites and museums. Our first stop was the Temple of Zeus and the National Gardens. We then went to the National Archeological Museum. Time was getting the best of us, and we wanted to see more ruins, so we continued to the Ancient Agora (market), Hadrian’s Library, and the Temple of Hephaistos. We wrapped up our day with dinner at an amazing seafood restaurant, then a photo opportunity at the rooftop bar of our hotel.

We had breakfast together on our last day in Athens before parting ways. Daniel and Laura adventured in the morning while Jen and I packed and went for early boarding on the Norwegian Pearl. We reconnected later on the ship. They shared some great pictures from the morning.

When traveling with friends, everyone chooses what they want to see and do. We took numerous tours while Daniel and Laura took other excursions. We seldom went on the same adventures. Jen and I continued to explore archeological sites throughout Greece and beyond. The Norwegian Pearl moved us seamlessly from port to port.

The Norwegian Pearl

Our first port was Santorini. It is said that Santorini has more churches than houses, donkeys than people, and wine than water.

We visited Akrotiri, one of the 10 top Archaeological sites in the world, and learned about the prehistoric city, also known as the Pompei of the Aegean. The Theran eruption of approximately 1627 B.C. destroyed this unique Minoan settlement, and Spyridon Marinatos started the extensive excavation in 1967.

The nearly thirty-five centuries-old city still preserves many remains of its fine frescoes, everyday objects, and artwork because the volcanic ash protected them from the elements. At the time of the eruption, the city had reached great development and prosperity, with an elaborate drainage system and sophisticated multistoried buildings. Among other things, Akrotiri has been suggested to be the inspiration for Plato’s story of Atlantis.

The unique archeological site is completely under cover to protect it from the elements as the archeologists work to uncover its well-preserved treasures.

Following our visit to Akrotiri, we stopped at an impressive winery to taste Santorini’s famous wines, enjoy the magnificent view, and relax in its peaceful environment. Jen and I felt that the views were much better than the wine. Others in our group loved the wine. My take on it is that you shouldn’t go to Greece for the wine.

Our final destination was Fira, the cosmopolitan capital and one of Greece’s most famous and picturesque places. We had time to admire the white houses built on the crater’s slopes and explore the narrow paths before taking the cable car and the tender back to the ship.

On the second day, the ship docked in Mykonos. We took a great 3-D tour of Delos. To reach the ruins, we boarded a smaller boat and cruised to the nearby sacred island of Delos. We viewed a wealth of ruins using an electronic tablet with augmented-reality software that showed the structures as they appeared in ancient times.

According to Greek mythology, Apollo and his twin sister Artemis were born in Delos and first settled in the third millennium B.C. Archaeological discoveries excavated here have been deemed so indicative of an ancient cosmopolitan port that the island is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

All of the structures on Delos are excavated ruins, except for the museum and a few buildings for personnel. The landscape remains largely unaltered since ancient times because a town was never built over the original port, a rarity few other archaeological sites share.

As we meandered through the rather barren island, we saw ruins that included temples, statues, mosaic floors, and roads, such as the Sacred Way, which leads to the Sanctuary of Apollo. Another highlight is the Terrace of Lions, named for the Naxian marble lions that guard it. The originals are in the island’s museum to protect them from the elements.

The electronic tablet with 3D augmented reality software enhanced our understanding and enjoyment of the ruins. We pointed the tablet’s camera at a ruin and could view the structure as it originally stood centuries ago.

It is believed that the population of this port was poisoned by pirates, leaving the site untouched for thousands of years before being discovered.

The cruise was port heavy. We stopped at a different site nearly every day. On the third day, we tendered ashore in Zakynthos for a captivating tour, introducing us to Zakynthos Town, the island’s oldest monastery and a traditional island village. We began with a guided tour of Zakynthos Town, sometimes called the Venice of the South. We saw the expansive square named after Dionysios Solomos, the revered poet who wrote Greece’s national anthem, and continued past splendid landmarks. The Byzantine Museum and the Church of Saint Nicholas were amazing.

We then went to the village of Bochali, located below a Venetian fortress, and appreciated sweeping views of Zakynthos Town and the sparkling Ionian Sea. At the 14th-century Monastery of Anafonitria, we learned that Saint Dionysios, Zakynthos’ patron saint, served as the monastery’s abbot for most of his life. We viewed colorful 15th-century frescoes uncovered during the monastery’s painstaking renovation.

In the traditional mountain village of Volimes, we were taken to a modern olive press. The tour explained how olives are prepared and crushed for olive oil. The press has been family-owned for over 100 years, and past equipment was displayed, showing the business’s innovation over the years. The tour ended with a stroll along the city’s main shopping area.

On the fourth day, the ship docked in Corfu, where we indulged in a 4×4 excursion. We enjoyed the fun and adventure of Corfu’s countryside while traveling over stony trails through the olive groves. We caught glimpses of the sparkling Ionian Sea and beautiful green hills and saw many locals’ traditional way of life. Our guide led us up the main coastal road to the island’s northeast. We then took small country roads to quaint villages, stopping at the most charming and oldest on the island to take in the views.

We went uphill on a narrow, winding road that zigzagged to Sokraki, where we stopped to admire one of the most fantastic panoramic views. Continuing on a dusty road, we arrived at Troumbetta. We passed through other picturesque sites before stopping at Bella Vista to enjoy more spectacular views while enjoying refreshments and Greek snacks. We found it difficult to decide which village was the most appealing.

We also visited a traditional Koum Kouat distillery. The Koum Kouat citrus fruit, which only grows in Corfu, is made into one of the island’s most famous products: a liqueur with the same name and fruit-preserved sweets. We viewed a small exhibition of antique distillery equipment, sampled the produce, and purchased a bottle of the local liquor.

Jen and I toured Lapad Bay & Old Town on our next cruise stop. We enjoyed the panoramic views of Dubrovnik while riding through the hilly Lapad Peninsula. At a bay on the peninsula’s western shore, we stopped for a short walk to the Sunset Beach Club. It was an ideal setting to linger over a drink and enjoy the sweeping views of the sparsely populated Elaphiti islands. Afterward, we visited Dubrovnik’s medieval Old Town, which UNESCO deemed a World Heritage site for its extraordinary architecture. As we walked along the main street, the Stradun, we saw Saint Savior Church, the polygonal Fountain of Onofrio, and the Old Pharmacy, founded in 1317. The defensive stone walls surrounding Old Town were built in the 13th century.

  • The next day, we tendered ashore in Kotor, Montenegro, for a highlights & cable car adventure. We viewed Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm from several characteristic locales, ending with a cable car ride from the summit of Kuk Hill. During the descent, we gazed out over Kotor, its namesake bay, and the surrounding mountains. The terrain was so striking that when playwright George Bernard Shaw visited, he famously quipped from nearby Mount Lovćen, “Am I in paradise or Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm on the moon?” The vistas were just as memorable as we traveled through Lovćen National Park to Cetinje, once the royal capital of Montenegro. Founded in the 15th century, it was a lovely setting for our lunch as it lies in a green bowl at the foot of Mount Lovćen. Our next stop was in Budva, a medieval port that inspired the English poet Lord Bryon. He described it as “the most beautiful meeting of land and sea” and we discovered it still is.

The ship docked the following day at Split, where we toured Split Old Town and Trogir Medieval City, taking advantage of a rare opportunity to visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the same day. We discovered the treasures of Trogir and saw how the Romans influenced the old city of Split. The medieval city of Trogir boasted architectural treasures of beautiful stone houses, palaces, churches, monasteries, towers, and walls. The entire town was like an open-air museum, so strolling through its narrow streets was an unforgettable experience.

We visited the main attraction in Trogir, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, probably the finest example of sacred architecture in Croatia. The unusual construction with three naves and three apses dominates the entire town. The main portal carved by local artist Radovan in the 13th century is world famous. We also saw the Town Loggi, Town Hall, and Cipiko Palace. Afterward, we had some free time to explore on our own.

The old town of Split is built on and around the massive palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian. It represents the most important example of Roman architecture on the Adriatic. Our tour started in the cellars, which are very well preserved. We saw the Cathedral of St. Duje, considered one of the world’s oldest Catholic cathedrals that retains its original structure. We also saw the Golden Gate, the Silver Gate, and the Peristyle Square.

Our Greek Island-hopping cruise reached its final port at Ravenna, Italy. We did not go ashore due to a tropical bora. The bora is a northerly to northeasterly katabatic wind in areas near the Adriatic Sea. Similar nomenclature is used for north-eastern winds in other coastal areas of the eastern Mediterranean and Black Sea basins. I copied and pasted this description from Wikipedia.

A Bora

We disembarked the Pearl several hours later than expected after bidding a fond farewell to the crew, who showed us a magnificent cruise. The bora had left our ship floating in the Mediterranean, awaiting disembarkation. We took a shuttle from the port of Trieste to our hotel near the airport in Venice. Time, logistics, and late arrival gave us little time in Venice. We missed our adventure there but took the evening to enjoy a great Italian meal and relax in our 17th-century hotel. The hotel has been in the same family for centuries and President Reagan was a guest there (see the photo below). Venice was deluged with rain and wind.

Our return to Panama barely allowed us to do the laundry before leaving for Washington D.C., Bethesda, and Annapolis, Maryland. Jen and I flew to Baltimore, Maryland, a few days before Jen’s younger brother’s wedding. We spent two days in Washington, D.C. I had never been there, and it was an excellent opportunity to see our nation’s capital.

The photos below are randomly ordered and don’t do our visit justice. During the two days there, we visited The White House, the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial, The Vietnam War Memorial, The FBI, The Supreme Court, The Library of Congress, The US Capitol, and more. We walked what seemed to be a thousand miles. Our Congressman, Greg Steube, arranged for a private tour of the Capitol with one of his aids. That was a highlight of our visit. I particularly enjoyed the Library of Congress, while Jen enjoyed The Supreme Court. Background checks were required for The White House and FBI tours, making prior planning a must. Jen had the whole thing arranged and scheduled in advance.

It was a beautiful Saturday at the Naval Academy in Annapolis for Jon and Karine’s wedding. The ceremony was beautiful, and we were pleased to welcome Karine into the family and pray for special blessings for their happiness. The pictures below are some I captured walking into the chapel, where no pictures were allowed, and one of Jon, Karine, and Jon’s boys in the superintendent’s garden. The other is Jon and Karine cutting the cake.

Cutting the Wedding Cake

After the wedding, Jen returned to Panama while I flew to Florida.  As many of you know, Dad’s wife, Renee, passed away just before our trip to Greece. I could spend ten days with him before I returned to Panama. My time in Florida was eye-opening. The first picture below is from three years ago. It’s from Gilcrest Park last Monday. I returned to the same location to take pictures while I was there. The devastation in the park was awful. Hurricane Helene created a storm surge, depositing two boats in the park. After Hurricane Milton, I counted almost sixteen boats in the park, pickleball courts, and across the street. The takeaway here is the power of the storm surge. My family and I had no significant damage from the storm, but as I visited with my dad for more than a week, the devastation was heartbreaking. There were hundreds of homes with all their furniture out by the street. Dumpsters in driveways collected drywall and carpets from flooded homes.

We returned to Florida late in November for Renee’s memorial. The Celebration of Life was the beautiful tribute she certainly deserved.
While in Florida, I was invited to speak at her book club. Several group members approached me at her Celebration of Life and asked that I join them for their regular monthly meeting. Many showed up with copies of Murder in Eagle Cove and asked that I sign them. Members of the group bought every copy I had with me. They added it to their current reading list, and we discussed where the series will go from the end of the first book. They are superfans, and I loved every minute of it. They are as anxious for the second in the series as I am. I’m working to have a mini launch and book signing in Punta Gorda, Florida, in May, along with a book signing tour from Florida to Boston, where the series takes place.
The Punta Gorda Book Club

We got our condo in Port Charlotte ready for our snowbird tenants before departing. Our plans for the last big adventure of the year were tweaked just a little for Renee’s memorial.

We drove to Miami, returned our rental car, and overnighted before boarding the Norwegian Joy.

Norwegian Joy

Our first port was in Cozumel, Mexico. Admittedly, this is someplace we’d been before, but how can you not love the adventuring experience there? We enjoyed a unique excursion, Cozumel by Land & Sea. It combined an insider’s view of local chocolate and tequila production as a postlude for exploring the wonders underwater in a semi-submersible. At the Mayan Cacao Company, we saw how chocolate is made from cacao. This process dates back to the ancient Mayans, who drank chocolate for ceremonial and medicinal purposes as far back as 500 BC. After sampling some creamy (and exceptionally yummy) chocolate, we proceeded to a tequila-tasting seminar for a tasting that presented the historical and cultural importance of tequila on the Yucatan peninsula.

A different perspective of Cozumel awaited us just offshore on Paradise Reef, where we explored the underwater world in a semi-submersible way. Although the vessel’s viewing windows were only a few feet below the water’s surface, the sights were extraordinary. We saw a riot of brilliantly colored fish and coral reefs.

Our second port was in Harvest Caye, Belize. This was another of the places we have yet to have the opportunity to explore. It was on the list of possible retirement destinations before choosing Panama. Our ship was the only one in port, making it an easy, laid-back stop. Jen and I enjoyed Rainforest River Tubing. There was a genuine feel for rural life while we drove through the densely forested countryside to Maya World Outpost, the starting point for our adventure. After a short briefing to help maximize the tubing experience, we eased into the refreshing but cold river, and the current carried us downstream. Floating down the slow-moving river on an inner tube, we took in the spectacular rainforest scenery while listening to the ambient sounds of the jungle. Mountain springs feed the river, so the water is crystal-clear. Along the way, we passed through a picturesque mountain gorge over a series of small rapids and under overhanging trees, keeping us primarily in the shade. The ever-changing scenery added to the excitement and made the trip memorable. We heard and saw squawking tropical birds abundant in the protected rainforest.

A Mayan Statue at the entrance of Maya World Outpost.

Next, we made port in Costa Maya, Mexico. We didn’t plan any excursions there as we’d visited before. We decided instead to remain aboard the ship and enjoy the incredible offerings. We opted to add the adults-only area, Vibe Club, to our package on this cruise. We loved the special adult-only atmosphere and enjoyed the hot tub and high-end bar. Taking a cruise is only sometimes about the amazing ports and adventures. We could kick back and relax while someone else did the cooking, laundry, and housekeeping. The bars and restaurants aboard the Norwegian ship did an excellent job keeping us fed and hydrated. Thanksgiving dinner was prime rib, soup, vegetables, and pumpkin cheesecake. We could have selected turkey and all the fixings, but why when the prime rib is on the menu? Another great benefit of a cruise vacation is the awesome shows…we had the Beetles on board. There were also comics and multiple talented entertainers rounding out the long list of entertainment.

Our delightful cruise continued to Roatan, Honduras, where we made port on Thursday. Roatan was another consideration for our retirement strategy. We have friends in Panama who nearly opted for this beautiful island offshore from Honduras. We could see why. It’s full of English-speaking expats, and the near-perfect tropical Caribbean climate was amazing.

Jen is hooked on ATV adventures. She booked us on an amazing adventure through the rainforest and mangroves. The adventure began in the village of Politilly Bight, where we hopped on ATVs and raced off caravan-style, following the guide into the surrounding wilderness. We saw the natural beauty that abounds in the island’s more remote regions, riding the ATV through a tropical rainforest. The recent rain and natural trails with potholes had mud flying, making driving all the more fun and our shoes and clothes dirty. After a brief stop at a traditional Garifuna village, we were transferred to Oak Ridge, the island’s oldest fishing community. From there, we cruised along the mangrove-lined shores of southern Roatan. Mangrove forests line the banks almost everywhere and often create tunnels in the tree canopy that our boat easily navigated through. Besides being environmentally beneficial, mangroves shelter many animals, especially water birds such as green herons and roseate spoonbills.

We concluded the cruise in Miami. With another great adventure in the rearview mirror, we departed the Port of Miami by coach with a knowledgeable guide for a one-hour drive to Everglades National Park. This world-renowned eco-system covers about 5,000 square miles and is home to most of Florida’s alligators, snakes, black bears, wild pigs, over two hundred species of birds, including herons, egrets, white ibis, anhingas, roseate spoonbills, wood storks, ospreys, hawks, vultures, eagles and more, plus the endangered and nocturnal Florida Panther – less than 100 remaining in the wild.

We boarded our airboat for a thirty-minute exhilarating ride over the “River of Grass,” where we encountered several different creatures. After the airboat ride, we enjoyed an alligator show and various crocodilian exhibits. We then had time to visit the souvenir shop. On the drive back to the city, our guide gave us great insight into the two Florida tribes of Native American Indians.

Our Miami adventure continued with a sightseeing and millionaire boat tour. We started at South Beach in the Art Deco History District. After South Beach, we explored the Wynwood Art District before moving on to Little Havana. The guide had our driver take us through Coconut Grove, Miami’s oldest and most prestigious neighborhood. At the Bayside Marketplace, we had lunch before boarding the Millionaire’s Cruise. The guide pointed out celebrity homes and offered fun facts. It went by so fast that all the homes photographed were not identified.

Our day ended at Superblue Miami, where Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s interactive artwork was presented in an amazing new sound and light installation by Studio Lemercier. Each room of the Superblue exhibit was a different experience. One room was full of bubbles falling from the ceiling, one had mirrors and lights, and another was a laser light experience.

After two full days of exploring Miami, we caught a flight with 18 other adventure seekers to Cuba. I stated earlier that the pinnacle of our adventures in 2024 was my Writer’s retreat in Greece. If you haven’t yet read our blog post from Cuba, it’s worth your time. I was blown away by the history, culture, and people there. You can use the link above or on the sidebar to access it.

I couldn’t conclude this post without talking about a few other significant things. I was invited to speak at several events and participated in some podcasts. My interview with Retire There is due to be published shortly.

Watch my newsletter for information about that as it becomes available. I had a great interview with Melissa Darnay from Choose Panama about our retirement, my writing, and life in Panama. That interview was posted to her website and nationwide on every platform where people enjoy great podcasts. My interview with Melissa is available here.

I talked earlier about Renee Johnson’s death. We also lost one of our dearest friends here in Panama, Barbara Munn. Barb and Renee were both instrumental in the writing of my first novel and advised me on the second before they passed. Jen and I are sad at the loss of these beautiful women. May they both rest in eternal peace.

We’re home in Panama, and it’s just a few days until Christmas. We anxiously await the miracle of the newborn Christ Jesus. We will be celebrating with our church family and fellowshipping on Christmas Eve. On Christmas day, we will be having a small dinner party with a few of our most special friends. Panama has provided Jen and me with special friendships that will last a lifetime.

The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events. Of course, if you’re not subscribed to receive this blog in your inbox, check the sidebar for the link to subscribe. I never share my subscriber list, and I never send spam. Your privacy is highly respected.

Have a blessed New Year,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Victoria’s Panama Adventure

Jen and I have four grandchildren, and we have told them that we will bring them for a visit to Panama between their junior and senior years of high school. The first of these was our oldest granddaughter, Victoria. Kids back in our day made scrapbooks of their adventures, but kids today are all about electronics. I am compiling this blog post chronicling Victoria’s awesome Panama adventures to share with her and our readers. I took nearly a thousand pictures in the ten days she was here. I will share the best of her adventure pictures and many amazing things we did during her visit.

Victoria Kavos

The first phase of her adventure involved traveling from her home in Alabama to the Atlanta International Airport. There, she boarded her nonstop Copa flight to Panama City. We were able to upgrade her to a business-class seat. We met her at the arrival area of Tocumen International Airport, where she got her first glimpse of life in Panama. It should come as no surprise that the primary language in Panama is Spanish, and it is sometimes difficult to find people who speak English. She went easily through immigration but had difficulty at customs. Because she is under 18, completion of the customs declaration is not required. However, the customs agent forced her to complete it before passing. If minors travel alone to Panama, I suggest they complete the form ahead and have it available. Victoria was stressed enough without having to communicate with a customs agent who did not know her job or speak any English.

Because of her late evening arrival, we stayed in Panama City overnight. We checked into the hotel directly across from the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal. Wednesday was her first full day of adventuring in Panama. We arranged for our good friend, Marc Vargas, to be our guide for the day.

We spent the entire day Wednesday exploring the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal, Monkey Islands, and the Mercado de Mariscos (fresh fish market). The canal tour was perfect, and we saw big ships passing through the locks at Miraflores, watched the 3-D movie about the canal, and took some great pictures. It was nice to have Marc’s wife, Keren, join us for the day. She’s a flight attendant for Copa and had the day off. She later talked to some of her colleagues, one of which met Victoria on her flight home. “Oh, you must be Keren’s friend,” she said. Victoria had great service from the entire flight crew on her return flight despite us not getting her an upgrade.

After the Panama Canal, we traveled to Lake Gatun and boarded a panga bound for Monkey Islands. The trip to the islands where the monkeys live is as much an adventure as seeing the monkeys. Lake Gatun is the widest portion of the canal, and we passed ships transiting on our journey. Lake Gatun is a manmade lake formed by dams and flooding the high-elevation land in the mountains. The small islands in it are what were once the tops of mountains. The continental divide passes through the middle of the lake. The day was a bit rainy but not enough to dampen spirits. At least no human spirits. The monkeys did not come down to our boat but we did see dozens of them. They wouldn’t even come from their dry perches in the jungle trees to get a banana.

After our monkey adventure, we traveled into Panama City to see the Mercado de Mariscos and have lunch. Marc is a master at finding the best places to park. He got us both great parking spaces in a lot just across the footbridge from the market. Keren checked earlier and spoke with someone at the market about purchasing scallops. We were on a mission to buy scallops for ceviche. She was told there was some, but we didn’t find it, so we purchased fresh shrimp cleaned and deveined for $5 per pound instead. Victoria and I were planning to make a trial run of ceviche for the Panama Fonda Cookbook that I will be publishing later this year. Every recipe must be tried and tested. We tested several during her visit. She is a great cook and loved working with me to test the recipes.

After taking in the market, we went to the back, where over fifty sidewalk restaurants serve the best seafood on the planet. We were seated at Marc’s favorite, and we all ordered food and drinks. We had a delightful meal and bid Marc and Keren farewell, with plenty of time to reach Coronado before dark.

We regularly volunteer at Word of Life Camp in Chame during camp season. While Victoria was here, Word of Life was holding an English-speaking camp, so we took her there for a morning of preparation for the day’s meals. She was a great help, and we were able to give her a tour of the campgrounds and see some of the activities taking place. On our way to our volunteer position at the camp, we stopped for Victoria’s first fonda experience. The dictionary defines fonda as an American actor. In Panama, a fonda is a small roadside restaurant offering Panamanian food. I often tell people that fonda means “cheap food.” These small open-air restaurants are usually only open for breakfast and lunch. They are known for low prices and authentic Panamanian food. The establishments usually prepare their offering early in the morning, and when it’s gone, they close. Finding a cheap meal that we do not have to prepare ourselves has always been high on our list of importance. It was important for Victoria to experience dining in a fonda before we attempted to test-fly the recipes for the Panama Fonda Cookbook.

We worked together to make shrimp ceviche over the weekend and had visitors, Lorin and Judy, come for the taste test.

Pink Shrimp Ceviche was a big NO for the cookbook.  

Unfortunately, the ceviche recipe did not make the cut. It got poor scores, so we reopened the search for the perfect recipe to put in the recipe book. We made the Sancocho recipe another day and invited our good friends, Randy and Cyndi, to come for the Sancocho taste test.

Panama’s National Food Sancocho

Five thumbs up guaranteed it a place in the recipe book. Another day, we made a batch of hojaldres for breakfast, and the three of us ate the whole batch. They were yummy. We had some yucca left from the Sancocho recipe, so we cut it up and made cassava fries. That recipe will also be in the cookbook. They were amazing. We fried them in the air fryer and made Cilantro Lime Mayonnaise for dipping (not pictured).

Hojaldres
Cassava fries

We took some downtime to play Bingo at Hawaii Restobar in Nueva Gorgona. Hector and his team do a great job of providing entertainment and pub food for the expat community. Victoria enjoyed hanging out in one of our favorite places to relax and enjoy the fun. We didn’t win, but it sure was a fun time.

Bingo at Hawaii

Victoria went with us to aqua aerobics at the club on Saturday.

Notice the ominous clouds and raindrops on the water.
This guy was enjoying the aqua aerobics too.

We intended to spend the afternoon going to Santa Clara for lobster. Unfortunately the lobster/beach day in Santa Clara was rained out. By the time the rain stopped, we had eaten left-over sancocho and made plans for a movie. We saw a great movie, giving her the Panama movie theater experience. It was the perfect way to spend a rainy day. It was a lucky break that there was a movie in English that interested all of us. On our journey to the theater, we drove up the highway to the big artisan market and shopped around for gifts Victoria wanted to purchase for her siblings.

We had an entire day exploring El Valle de Anton, including the Sunday Market. The market is open seven days a week. Most days, you’ll find vendors who have orchids, and you’ll find magnificent carvings and handmade baskets. These baskets are popular with expats, and you’ll find that most homes have at least one around the house for various uses. The baskets are expensive because of the work that goes into making them. The sellers of the baskets rarely negotiate on the prices; however, most everything else in the market carries a price that can be negotiated.

Seeking treasured gifts at the Sunday Market in El Valle.

With over 2,000 species, Panama has the most abundant and beautiful butterflies in the world. The butterfly habitat lets visitors get up close and personal with the country’s butterflies. A private guide shows an educational film and conducts a tour. Once inside the habitat, you’ll have the opportunity to see butterflies at every stage of growth and enjoy their beauty. The guide will give information and interesting facts about the butterflies in residence inside the habitat. Pictures from this exhibit will be something that you will treasure from the visit.

The Orchids Center (Aprovaca Orquideas) concentrates on conserving endangered native orchids and promoting ecotourism and environmental education. It is just off the main road and equally interesting. Orchids are natural to the area, with over 1,400 varieties, and almost every variety of the beautiful flower is represented. Each orchid has a different time of year when it blooms, so each visit is a new and beautiful experience. Like the butterfly habitat, each group has a private tour. The guides are a wealth of knowledge and will tell you things you will never learn elsewhere. On our visit we found very few blooming orchids. It was a nice walk through the habitat.

The town of La Mesa is located nearby in the Valle de Anton. It is the site of the Chorro el Macho waterfall. This 280-foot waterfall is considered one of the most beautiful areas of the valley. It is a short walk north through the lush rainforest. A large pool fed by the falls is at the base of the falls. It was open for swimming once, but swimming is no longer permitted.

Walking paths allowed us to explore the area. Suspension bridges cross the river providing views of the falls. For the more adventurous, zip lines through the treetops provide breathtaking aerial views of the Chorro el Macho waterfall. When you enter the area to pay the admission, you will be offered a walking stick; take one. You can hire a guide here who will point out the local birds, animals, butterflies, and other points of interest. This is also the place to arrange for the zip line tour. We did not zip line on our visits to the falls, but this is something that has been enjoyed by several of our guests.

We also hiked to a different part of the volcano’s rim, where we could take in the magnificent views of the valley. From that viewpoint, we saw the Sleeping Indian. It does look exactly as advertised. It was breathtaking.

We chose to have lunch at a favorite restaurant in El Valle for a casual meal, Zapote. It’s on the right, as you enter town before you reach the market. They offer a wide variety of food options on a massive menu. With large, tasty pizzas and delectably fresh ceviche, the restaurant also offers Panama’s traditional dish, sancocho. With so many great meal options, there was something to please everyone.

On our way out of town, we stopped at the Valle de Anton Museum. The small museum gives a unique historical view of the area. One exhibit shows the history of the volcano’s formation and eventual habitation. Another exhibit highlights the native people, while the wildlife is on full display in others. There is a short film at the end.

Our day was packed with cool experiences. On the way down the mountain, we stopped for a pipa fria. It’s much better, healthier, and more refreshing than ice cream.

Pipa Fria

Early the following week, we had beach time, relaxed at the pool, and hiked to Filipina Falls. At the trailhead, we were met by the dogs who showed us the way. We passed a big, ugly black goose on the trail and got our feet wet.

A little beach adventure

Wednesday morning, we left early to tour the Gamboa Rainforest. Before taking a cable car ride through the jungle canopy, we toured the butterfly exhibit, poison frog pond, orchid house, and sloth sanctuary. At the end of the cable car, we strolled to the top of a 90-foot tower to admire the jungle, Panama Canal, and Chagres River, which flows into Lake Gatun. From the tower, we could see an Embera Village tucked into the jungle near the river as we enjoyed the sounds of the jungle.

Gamboa Rain Forest Resort.
A selfie at the top of the canopy tower

After our amazing morning, we enjoyed lunch at Maagoo Fish Tacos before continuing to The Panama Museum of Biodiversity. Puente de Vida (“Bridge of Life”) is a portal to the earth’s richest and most diverse ecosphere. Internationally renowned architect Frank Gehry designed it. It’s located at the end of the Amador Causeway in Panama City, facing the Pacific Ocean at the entrance of the Panama Canal.

A selfie at the Biodiversity Museum

From the air, the beautiful building was designed to look like a bird in flight. The first stop on the tour through the museum is a look at the animals that share this land. The animals are ranked on a wall as to their existence, and some are now extinct. Others are only maintained in captivity. The golden toad is one of these creatures. It was thought to only exist in the dense, unexplored jungle. Now, there is a belief that the toads are only still here in zoos and aquariums.

The tour continues with a wonderful 360-degree film that challenges all your senses. It even plays on the floor. The film depicts the wonderful nature of Panama, including panoramic views of mountains, rivers, jungles, and oceans. As we continue, we learn how the land mass of Panama was created, forming a connection between South and North America. Volcanoes created what is called an isthmus between the two continents. The resulting land bridge allowed the migration of many species of animals in both directions. It also caused a change in the biology of both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. By blocking the water flow between the two bodies of water, two distinct oceans with different chemistries were created. This natural phenomenon caused the waters of the Pacific to warm and the Atlantic waters to remain colder.

As people continue through the museum, they enter an area of life-size cast animals. This exhibit is very cool. It shows the animals in the size and magnitude they migrated from one continent to another. Many people recognize some, as they are still here, while many are extinct. Much of what I have learned about the emergence of the isthmus of Panama, I learned from the exhibits at the Bio-Diversity Museum. The great biotic interchange, or the movement of plants and animals between North and South America, began millions of years ago. Some of the plants and animals found in Panama today have origins in North America, while others have origins in South America. Panama continues to bridge the two continents, providing annual migration routes for millions of birds. Other animals spread north or south through Panama due to environmental changes caused by humans.

We planned to go to Panama Vieja following the museum, but our plans were too aggressive. The tour of the ruins would have to wait for a future visit as our day ran short of hours. Instead, we explored the Amador Causeway, where we found an ice cream store and a few shops where Victoria could finish shopping for souvenirs for her family. She found her dad a Panama Hat. The best quality hats are known as Montecristis, after the town of Montecristi, where they are produced. The rarest and most expensive Panama hats are hand-woven with up to 3,000 weaves per square inch.  According to popular lore, a “Montecristi superfino” Panama hat can hold water and, when rolled up, pass through a wedding ring. She found a nice hat for her dad in a shop on Amador Causeway within her budget. While it’s not a superfino, it is a Montecristi. While I doubt it is woven tight enough to hold water, it rolled up and fit nicely into a box the shop owner provided.

We checked into our hotel near the airport and ordered an Uber to take us to dinner. Dinner was at a favorite Mexican restaurant in Metro Mall. After dinner, we wandered around until the mall closed before returning to the hotel. We were all exhausted.

Morning came much too soon. We woke up early and took Victoria to the airport. There were tearful goodbyes and a feeling of void left by her departure. We could feel Victoria’s excitement about returning to her family. As we stood in line at the Copa check-in counter, she excitedly looked at the first stamp on her passport.

Each time we have visitors, the time together never seems to be enough. The experience of having a grandchild visit magnifies this times a hundred. We wanted to latch on and keep her here longer. Our guest room stands in wait for the next guest. We love to show any visitor the beautiful country where we have chosen to spend retirement. Our next grandchild will be a long wait, but we are already anxious for his visit. In the meanwhile, we would love to see you here!

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Old People Ziplining

We recently entertained cousins from Pittsburgh. They were our most adventurous guests to date and we will share a bit of our adventure while they visited. Some of you who follow us on Facebook already know that my personal zipline experience was a disaster. I eluded to the possibility of my sharing that video on the blog. I am sharing my experience and that of Jen (yes she did it), Robert and Bill. I was overwhelmed with pride when Jen came zipping out of the jungle canopy even after witnessing my disastrous attempt. Robert followed Jen, then Bill. I must state right up front that none of us are physically fit teenagers, and probably should not even have attempted this adventure. The line was about a 30 second zip, none of it too far off the floor of the jungle. I will let the 4 videos speak for themselves. Our hosts barely spoke any English which complicated the experience, but overall we thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience. They served us a great Panamanian lunch and gave us a nice hike through the jungle which comprised their modest property. Please enjoy the videos. If anyone would like the contact information for Kontraste Adventure, just a few kilometers outside La Chorrera send us a message.

You can safely assume that none of us took a 2nd turn on the zip-line.

We couldn’t resist taking our guests to the Ron Abuelo Rum Distillery and the Bio-diversity Museum, both of which we have explored with previous guests. Please check our archives to find out more about those wonderful tourist experiences. We also took them to the Miraflores Locks and visitor center which was a first experience for us. They have a great museum and an I-Max movie which are a must see for Panama Canal visitors.

A trip to El Valle is another must see for all our guests. We were able to take them to a couple of places that we have not shared before. We also repeated some favorites. We took them to the rim of the volcano for a look down into the valley. We also explored El Macho Falls, which was a treat for all our senses. The sights and sounds of the walk through the jungle were amazing. The waterfall was spectacular and the excitement of the people zip-lining the face of the falls was awesome. Our hike ended at the bottom of the falls where Jen, Bill and Robert swam in the pool formed by the waterfalls. It is ice cold; and I had no part of it.

 

 

We had a busy week while Bill and Robert visited. Both are foodies, and were always wanting to explore the foods of Panama. We went for the Lobster, Corvina, Pipa Fria, and even stopped along the highway for Ceviche. They particularly seemed to enjoy the Fonda experiences. No trip to Panama would be complete without a visit to the beach and pool time.

 

 

We had a great visit and thoroughly enjoyed sharing our home with these crazy guys. Before they left, I am certain they needed a vacation from their vacation. We went full blast the entire duration of their visit. Shortly after they left Jen and I went on adventure of our own to Jamaica. We have vacationed there in the past and it was a pleasure to meet and enjoy some time with friends from the States. From Panama it is an easy 90 minute flight to Jamaica.  We are often asked what inspired our decision to relocate to  Panama. One of our best reasons is that Panama is a great location to explore from. We will always have great things here to share with our guests, however, once we get completely settled we will explore more of the Caribbean, Central and South America. There are hundreds of great destinations within a couple of hours by flight or car.

We never seem to have a shortage of things to occupy our free time. Church keeps us busy and we are finding volunteer opportunities that pique our interests. We have a friend at our church here, Chuck Holton, who is an independent correspondent. His reports are frequently carried by the 700 club and other Christian media outlets. He has spent a lot of time recently on the border of Venezuela where people are starving due to the collapse of the Socialist economy there. His reports are also rooted in mission work and he is always trying to help the native people. A very good friend of ours travelled with Chuck this week through the jungle South-east of here to the border of Columbia. There they set up clinics to provide medical help in five refugee camps. Missions such as these are on our radar, but for now we will be staying right here in our own community where there is no shortage of need. This week the local Rotary Club in association with Rotary Clubs in the States and our church here provided free dental care for many in the community. It was such a humbling experience to volunteer and see the people being helped by this awesome mission.

People waiting for free dental care
People waiting for free dental care

From time to time we are contacted by other expats who are interested in coming to our area. These contacts have always turned into friendships. If you are interested in becoming part of the expat community here in Coronado, make contact with us. We look forward to showing folks around and sharing our experiences. As always, if you found something entertaining or helpful, like and share our blog.

Buenos,

Jen and Greg

 

 

 

 

 

Casco Viejo, Contadora, and The Amador Causeway

Yes, you are about to hear of our awesome adventure over this past weekend. Things at our house have been extremely busy over the past several weeks, so we have to apologize, with explanation, for the lack of recent posts. Shortly after our last post we had a wonderful visit from friends who live in Michigan. We shared some adventures with them that would be a repeat to our blog, but were great never the less. One adventure of note that we have yet to talk about is the Playa de Panama which is just a few short minutes from our condo. The beach is generally quiet and secluded. The best part is that there is a shack at the entrance where you can get a great meal of Lobster or Corvina with Patacones.

Playa de Panama Lobster and Corvina
Playa de Panama Lobster and Corvina

The price for Lobster is $10 and the Corvina is $8. The purveyor usually has ice cold beer for $1, but it is not a problem to bring your own drinks. Once our friends departed, we found ourselves busy dealing with the sale of our house in Michigan. As of now it is scheduled to close by the end of the week. With the sale of our house looming near we have resumed actively looking at homes here in Panama. Last week was the Thanksgiving Holiday in the States. It is just another day here in Panama, however we opted to create our own grand celebration. We shared our meal with new friends from five countries, including Canada, Germany, South Africa, Panama, and The United States. There were traditional and non-traditional Thanksgiving food with Turkey and everyone bringing a dish to pass. We also made sure that the staff here at our condo was fed. A great time was had by all.

This is where we catch up to the present. We left early on Friday morning with our good friends and neighbors to share a weekend adventure. Our adventure started with a stop on the Amador Causeway to explore the Biodiversity Museum.

Bio Diversity Museum, Panama City
Bio Diversity Museum, Panama City

The experience was, without question, one of the most interesting experiences. Readers may recall our previous post T- 21 Days To Departure . In that post we presented research where we found some great adventure destinations. We were able to cross a couple of these destinations off our list, and more, this past weekend. The Bio Diversity Museum was self guided. Each of us had a device that we could listen to, which guided us through the museum in our native language at our own pace. There were also real human guides all along the way who were all multi-lingual. They helped fill in the blank spots and answered any questions. The museum explained how Panama was formed by volcanoes, rising from the ocean which created a land bridge from South America to North America. The result was the convergence of two populations of plants and animals on one single land mass. The museum also helps teach how to live in harmony with the other plants and animals with which we share this space.

Following our visit to the museum we explored the Amador Causeway. The Causeway runs out to the Pacific along the Panama Canal. It is lined with marinas, bars, restaurants, and shops. We located a great fonda where we had lunch.

The Flamenco Marina is just down the way. This is our destination Saturday morning. Our ferry to Las Perlas  (The Pearl Islands) will depart from there. We have round trip tickets for the ferry ride to the island of Contadora where we will spend the day. Following our lunch we found our way to the Raddisson on the Panama canal. We got checked in and took Uber to Casco Viejo. We enjoyed Casco well into the late evening. This was our second trip to Casco. There is so much to do and see that we will entertain friends there for years without ever tiring of it. The Cathedral on the square is being renovated and it is nearly completed. When we were there the freshly refurbished bells were waiting on the sidewalk to be returned to the bell towers. We also toured another Cathedral where there was a scale model of Jerusalem. It was just incredible. Our night ended with dinner then a half block walk to the Presidential Palace. It is Independence month here in Panama and we enjoyed fireworks over the bay near the palace. Panamanian people love fireworks.

Saturday we were up early for our 7 a.m. ferry departure. The Pearl Islands are a string of islands about 1 1/2 hours away by boat. Survivor fans will remember a season of that show was filmed there. We visited Contadora. It was a beautiful beach destination, but not the same island where the popular television program had been filmed. We rented a golf cart on the beach and took off to explore. The island has several restaurants, beaches, a few bed and breakfasts and an airstrip. We enjoyed two different beaches, one of which we did not share with any other people. We all agreed that this was someplace where we could spend a few days. The surrounding islands made for spectacular views.

There is so much more to share, and we are feeling a bit guilty that we have allowed so much time to pass between posts. We hope that you all have enjoyed our pictures from this weekends adventure. We are preparing for special guests this next week from the States, and there are a couple of great new adventures planned for their visit. We are committed to sharing those in a little over a week. We are hopeful that we may, also be able to share more about our pending home search here in Panama. We wake every morning feeling thankful and blessed to be retired in such a beautiful place. Please like and share our blog to keep us out there. The new rules at FaceBook are continuing to drive us crazy. We will post a link, but they seem to block our ability to share as we used to.

Blessings,

Greg and Jen

La Laguna

When a friend suggested that we take an excursion to La Laguna we were chomping at the bit to take a ride. From our condo it was a 45 minute ride to a very secluded mountain lake. The place was described as Jurassic Park in Panama. We agreed that the place was really cool but not a place to entertain our visitors. It was a great place for a hike and quiet solitude. There were very few others there, possibly because of the need for four wheel drive to reach our destination. At the end of the day we agreed that the best part of it was the ride up there. On our return to civilization we stopped at a housing project nested on the mountainside which was too cool not to explore.  Sante’ Fe was in the possibility of places we could want to live so we took a look. We could build a new home for slightly more than buying a condo on the beach. This turns out to be a no brainer for us. We have decided that we are beach, rather than mountain people. Enjoy the pictures of this adventure. We had magnificent views of the ocean from the mountain housing project where we looked at lots. It seems that everything about Panama leaves us awestruck and amazed. Every day is a new adventure even if we never leave the condo. The weather here is always interesting and never a disappointment, even when it rains. It is rainy season here now but we rarely have more than a few minutes of rain. Most days we have plenty of quality beach or pool time.

IMG_0518
Our view from Sante’ Fe. This is the road leading to the lots.

We have discovered many great places to enjoy a meal. Unfortunately we rarely take pictures of our experience. We are dedicated to doing better at this. One of the best meals is right here at our condo. The chef at La Terrazas Del Mar is truly amazing. We have been there several times without a bad experience. We do, however, find the fondas the most fun and always cheap. On Sunday we enjoyed the fonda outside our gate. We will return often as we can eat there cheaper than cooking at home.

 

Traditionnes De La Terra. The fonda outside our gate
Chulita, arroz, frioles, ensalada, and plaintain $5
chickens wander in the dining room

We also have found a great place where the half pound burgers are less than $5. They have birds and a great patio dining area.

This guy chatted us up while we ate
His friend nearby was very pretty
The parrot hung out in a tree nearby

Our best find was one afternoon we took off for a beach lunch. The lobster was pricey, but well worth the trip. It rained while we enjoyed a special lunch under a bohio.

Jen had a lobster split and steamed in garlic butter.

When we are not eating we enjoy our church and have volunteered to teach English to the local community. We have 4 students each and have just completed the 4th week of this awesome outreach. We both feel like we are not quite qualified for this, however it provides us a degree of satisfaction as we see the progression of these wonderful students. They are so anxious to learn and they are all learning to communicate with the many North Americans who live in this community. We are becoming active in the church and look forward to church on Sunday morning as well as Bible study. Our pastor is a great communicator and our knowledge of the Bible is growing. We both feel that Gods purpose for moving us here is buried in the details.

We are looking forward to a visit from friends in less than 2 weeks. We love to share our adventures, and hope that we can show them a great time.

For now we will say adios and leave you with a great picture of a recent sunrise (the feature picture). We cannot express enough how awesome the weather is here. As we wrap up this post we are sitting on our balcony watching a storm come across the horizon.

A storm moving in

She Bought The Sombrero

Our days seem to be shorter and shorter as we passed the half way point of our adventure. On Tuesday we made the journey to Panama City, Tocumen International Airport to pick up our good friends. On the way we stopped at an outlet mall and checked out the best places for values on everything from home improvements and furniture to appliances, clothing and pharmaceuticals. We retrieved our friends grabbed some dinner and headed back to Coronado. Since they arrived we have had the best time taking them to share some of our favorite adventure places and great places to eat. We have also had ample time at the pool and even got in a few games of cards.

On Thursday we took them for an adventure to Valle de Anton. It was our second visit and we wanted to hit a few of the places we missed the first time and share the wonderful mountain destination with our friends. Our first stop was Hotel Campestre where the world famous square trees grow. We thought, based on our own research, that the square trees were growing near the hotel and we could spend a few minutes to check it out. Once there, we found the path to the square trees and paid the admission of $5 each. We embarked on the path for the short hike which turned out to be too difficult for our friend. The hike was nearly 45 minutes of steep, and often difficult terrain. Our hosts dogs accompanied us with only two of us completing the entire journey to the one square tree. The hike through the jungle was beautiful, however it would be easy for us to consider this stop a tourist trap. We are sharing the pictures of the square tree hike below and hope that all of you will draw your own conclusion. At the end of the hike we had the great treat to see a sloth. It was high up in a tree near the hotel. We couldn’t get a great picture even with a zoom lens.

Following the square tree adventure we took off for the butterfly habitat. All of us enjoyed our visit there.  The $5 per person price of admission was considered to be fair. The tour was guided and very informative. We learned that there are over 1500 species of butterfly in Panama with over 1000 in Valle de Anton. Our guide told us that the definition of Panama is abundance of species and the butterflies certainly prove that out. We will spare you the details of life-cycle of the butterfly and all of that, but we did want to share with you some of our pictures.

By the end of the butterfly tour we were ready for lunch. It seems that the fondas and restaurants in Valle de Anton may be geared more to the tourist business. We had a wonderful fonda lunch, but the price was almost double what we have paid for similar food at other fondas.

After a brief discussion, we decided to save the orchid exhibit, zoo and reptile house for another adventure. The girls wanted to return to the mineral springs and mud bath, while the guys wanted to make the hike up to El Macho Falls. We talked about the mud bath in the post from our first visit to El Valle so we will tell a little about the El Macho Falls. The hike was short and beautiful with difficult terrain and suspended bridges. The guy at the gate gave us walking sticks which proved very helpful. This is a hike that most people could do with no problem, and well worth the effort. There is a zip line through the canopy but it wasn’t open when we were there. I imagine that it would be great fun to zip line down from the top of the falls. We hiked up through the jungle and the falls were magnificent. When we returned to the base of the falls there were pools of cool mountain water where we took a quick dip to cool off. From there it was a short hike back up to where we parked. It was only about 5 minutes by car back to where we left the girls at the mineral springs and mud bath. We are sharing pictures of the El Macho Falls hike below. The video is only a few seconds long to give you the sounds of the moment. We were not allowed to film or use video equipment at the pools, but we were the only ones there, so there is a couple of pictures. I imagine that clothing is optional at the pools (we took our dip in swim suits). There is a 3 sided wood screen where people can change.

Pool at the bottom of El Macho Falls

We picked up the girls at the mineral springs/mud bath and made our way to the market. Jen bought the hat and we browsed through. The treasures and vegetables were nearly the same on Thursday as our original visit on Sunday. You may recall that the market at el Valle de Anton is called the Sunday Market. We were relieved that vegetables would be available every day.

It was time to head home. We had a message from an agent who would be available to show us through one of our top choices for a permanent retirement home. We wanted the opinion of our friends, so we made the stop. Rio Mar Pacific Tower is a beautiful, newly constructed 24 story (48 unit) condo. We looked at a 2 bedroom and a 3 bedroom unit and it is hard to not love this place.

Balcony of Rio Mar 18th floor 3 BR

It just may be a little above our comfort zone for price. It does include underground parking, a deposito (storage locker), 3 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, large laundry room (accommodates a full size washer and dryer), and appliances. We will share a couple of other top choices with our friends before they go back to Michigan.

We have been working on this post for 3 days now, and could go on for much longer. We will wrap it up here, though, because we do not want to ramble. Thank-you for following along. Once again, we want to express our gratitude for the kind comments. Please catch up, if you missed anything, by clicking on the archive links. We are pleased to have our blog and any portion shared. There has been time when we have shamelessly borrowed content from others. We consider it an honor when people enjoy our content enough to share.

For now, Buenos Dias,

Greg and Jen

 

 

We are about to experience Carnival full blast.

We have been hearing for several days that Carnival in Panama is quite an event.  As I was writing our last post, Carnival began to sound like a winter storm in Michigan. The stores run out of supplies, there is no gas and traffic is at a standstill. Carnival starts officially today and ends on Tuesday night. That’s a 4 day party across the entire country. Many people here call it a drunk-fest and “no place for children”. You all can probably imagine the kind of Mardi Gras type stuff that will be going on. We understand that yesterday they turned all the lanes of the Trans American Highway to head out of the city for a period of time so that all the people could get to their weekend homes. The condo we are renting is owned by an American, but most in this building are owned by Panamanian people from Panama City who come here for vacation and weekends. It seems that the building is full now and the party here will be mild compared to elsewhere in the country. We are comparing it to our home on an inland lake in Michigan where a large percentage the properties are owned by non-residents. We only see them on the weekends and 4th of July. This week is like the 4th of July; they call it high season here.  The fireworks started on Thursday night. We think it must have been some kind of kickoff celebration.  Needless to say, we will be staying put here until Wednesday morning. We went out yesterday morning to pick up a few last minute supplies and driving here was like demolition derby/gridlock.

The main reason we went out yesterday was to go to our 1st meeting with our Spanish tutor, Jasmine. We were interested in learning more Spanish and Jasmine came highly recommended. Jasmine was all business, and our 1 hour session was packed full of important Spanish that we are to learn before next time. We are already finding it helpful, and are attempting to converse with one another as much in Spanish as possible. The Spanish here has a bit of its own Panama flare and most people here know a little English which gets mixed into conversation. The more we get away from the tourist area the less English speaking people we find. While we were out, we also filled the car with gas and picked up our passports from the courier. We found them stamped with our multiple entry designation. This will make customs easier, because we will be allowed to go through the line with residents. We can also enter and leave the country on a 1 way ticket. Tourists must have a return ticket when entering the country or they will not be allowed through customs at the airport or any check point at the border. Once a person gives up the tourist designation they are required to get a Panamanian drivers license. That process starts at the American Embassy in Panama City and ends at the local version of the Department of Motor Vehicles. We both have appointments at the American Embassy 1 week from Wednesday in the early morning so that we will hopefully complete the requirement and have our drivers licenses by the end of the day. The last stop of our excursion was to grab a few last minute supplies. We were literally scared to try to pull into the grocery store. The street out in front and the parking lot were gridlock. We ended up at the corner grocery by our condo. We have compared it to a 7-11, but by no stretch of the imagination is it a typical American curb store. We found it to have an ample supply of anything a person may need and fairly priced. We thought that the vegetables were even better there than the grocery store in town. We wanted to stop for lunch, however that stop was as equally frightening as the grocery store situation.

We have shared our research on the Fonda and even visited one earlier in the week. We learned that the translation for Fonda is food. These eating establishments intrigue us and we love to try them. There is one at the end of the street by our condo and it is our new favorite place to go. We can walk there and it is tasty, cheap and friendly. Our first experience with it was Wednesday. The offerings were Pollo Fritas (fried chicken) and Pollo Salsa (broiled chicken with Salsa). There was also some kind of boiled meat that we did not try, and Sopa (soup). The soup offering was Sopa de Costella (rib soup). We did not try it but others around were eating it and it looked good. All meals come with rice, beans, salad, and plaintain. Jen had the fried and I had the salsa chicken, we both had bottled water and our bill was $9.60.

After we took care of our groceries we walked down for lunch yesterday and had a similar experience. Jen again had the fried chicken and I had the Cinta Guisada (steak stewed). The steak was tender and delicious like swiss steak. We brought our own drinks and our bill was $7.50. Don’t let anyone tell you it is expensive to eat out here. You must be open to new experiences, and ready for adventure. We will try this place for breakfast soon, and let you all know how it goes.

We have been guilty of not taking many pictures. We wanted to share a couple of more photos on the roof. It is absolutely beautiful up there, and where we will be spending the majority of the next 4 days.

 

Our next Session with the Spanish tutor is Wednesday. Thursday we are planning to head to the Azarro Peninsula about 2-1/2 hours to the West and South. This will be our 1st official adventure excursion.

The most important thing we have learned is:  me gustaria el cuenta por favor (may I have the check please). That is the simple Spanish lesson for today.

que tengas un buen sabado!

Greg and Jen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Meats at the Fonda

In our previous posts we learned that the Fonda will have sopa, and possibly a variety of meat offerings. Carne (meats) are typically served asado (grilled or roasted), or frito (fried). Hey, we just learned a couple of new words in Spanish. We suspect that in Panama you may also find Pescado (fish) as a meat offering, due to its availability. Panama is considered to have excellent sea food. Sea bass can be found in many places and will usually be served grilled or ceviche (raw and marinated in lime juice). Our daughter is a great fan of ceviche, and I believe that we will muster the courage to give it a try. Ceviche can be found in Panama made from all types of seafood, including octopus and shrimp.  At the Fonda, you will be served arroz (rice) and frijol (beans) along with your carne. If you are lucky your plate may also have a roasted plantain which is considered a staple.

panama ceviche

We fear that the recipe and food thing may get old for some of you, so we will move away from it next time and begin looking at our possible destinations to explore on our visit this winter. Let’s review our Spanish for today. Carne are meats. Asado is roasted or grilled and frito is fried. Pescado is fish and ceviche is raw seafood  marinated in lime juice. We are all ready to check out the Fonda and try the native foods of Panama.

Thank-you for sharing our Panama adventure. Please, remember to like share and comment on our blog.

Sopa en la Fonda (Soup at the Fonda)?

We have explored the breakfast offerings; now lets see what’s for lunch. We know from previous posts that most fonda’s will have a sopa offering every day. Sopa is the Spanish word for soup. Wow we learned another Spanish food word. Sancocho or sopa de mariscos are a couple of sopa’s popular in Panama. Sopa de mariscocs is seafood soup. We searched the internet for a great recipe for this, and can imagine that a typical fonda in Panama would have something similar to the recipe below. Seafood in Panama is plentiful. The fishermen sell their daily catch right on the beach near our condo so we will definitely be giving this recipe a try.

sopa de mariscos

Sopa de Marisco Recipe

Ingredients

  • 2 red bell peppers, chopped
  • 1 12 white onions, chopped
  • 1 poblano pepper, chopped
  • 1 jalapeno pepper, chopped
  • 1 12 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 12 cups chopped tomatoes
  • 4 cloves garlic
  • 2 teaspoons saffron threads
  • cilantro
  • 1 dozen fresh muscles
  • 1 lb fresh shrimp, with shells and heads on
  • 2 large clusters snow crab legs or 8 salt blue crabs
  • 2 -3 fresh white fish fillets
  • 12 lb fresh scallops and or 12 lb fresh squid
  • garlic sea salt
  • 4 cups fish stock

Directions

  1. Heat olive oil in a large pot and add onions and red peppers.
  2. After they have softened a little add the poblano pepper, jalapeno, garlic and saffron threads.
  3. Let soften a little and add the tomatoes and heat through.
  4. Place all of this in a blender with the cilantro and puree.
  5. Return to  pot and add the fish stock.
  6. Heat to boiling and salt to taste.
  7. Add mussels, shrimp, fish and top off with crab legs or blue crabs.
  8. Cover and heat up to near boiling again.
  9. Add scallops and cover for just 2-3 minutes.
  10. Serve in bowls garnished with cilantro.

The second sopa that we have decided to talk about today is sancocho. Panamanian Sancocho is considered Panama’s national dish and it can be made using a variety of ingredients depending what you have on hand. The fonda may make a version like the recipe below using chicken and other ingredients on hand. In Panama you will find that the sancocho is not spicy like other parts Latin America. The Panamanian people prefer less kick than Mexico and Columbia. Just like the U.S. chicken soup is considered to be a cure for all that ales you. This one looks like a soup we would make using fresh chicken and vegetables that we can buy at the farm market.

 

Sancocho-Recipe

Panamanian Sanchoco Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 1 chicken, cut into pieces
  • 1 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • 2 Tbsp fresh oregano (2 tsp. dried)
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • 4 Tbsp cilantro
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 3 pounds of starchy vegetables (otoe, name/yams, yuca/cassava, green plantains)
  • 2 ears corn, broken into 1″ pieces
  • salt

Instructions:

  1. Season the chicken with the garlic, oregano, and pepper.
  2. In a heavy pot, brown the seasoned chicken in the oil over a medium flame and allow to sweat.
  3. Set a little cilantro aside for garnish at the end. Add the rest of the cilantro, onion and water. Make sure water covers the chicken.
  4. Bring to a boil and reduce to a low simmer for 20 minutes.
  5. Meanwhile, peel the root vegetables and cut into bite-size pieces.
  6. After chicken has simmered for 20 minutes, add the root vegetables.
  7. Cook until everything softens, about one hour. Keep adding water so the veggies stay about an inch under water.
  8. Add the corn and cook 15 minutes more, until corn is tender.
  9. Stir in salt to taste.

After the sopa there will be a meat option. We will explore the meat options and how they are prepared next time. We hope that all of you will some day be fortunate enough to visit a Panamanian Fonda and taste the flavors of Panama.

Let’s review our Spanish lesson. Today we learned sopa de mariscos is seafood soup and sanchoco is soup that can be made with a variety of ingredients; probably chicken in Panama. Our Spanish vocabulary is rolling.

Thanks for checking back, liking, and sharing. Try these recipes and let us know what you think. Are you ready to prepare authentic Panamanian cuisine? We have come to the realization that the vegetables and meats available may differ from what is available here in the U.S. These posts are preparing us for an awesome adventure.

Breakfast at the Fonda?

In our previous post we talked about the typical offerings for breakfast at a Panamanian fonda. Our research finds that you will enjoy hojaldres, tortillas, empanadas, huevos, and friojoles, along with fried chicken and meat for breakfast. The Spanish word for chicken is pollo and meat is carne. It will not be long before you will recognize these two words, as when talking about food in future posts we will be referring to all food by their Spanish names. Huevos, friojoles, and tortillas are all commonly known in English as eggs, beans, and tortillas. By process of elimination that leaves two common breakfast offerings that may be a mystery to some of the readers:  hojaldres and empanadas. Hojaldres are Panamanian fried bread. They are a bit like a fritter, however, they are made without yeast and dusted with powdered sugar. Hojaldres are usually eaten in one or two bites and are very enjoyable with a cup of great Panamanian coffee. We would like to share the recipes for Hojaldres and Empanadas below. Making the dough is time consuming so most fondas will make the dough the day before and store it refrigerated until the morning.

Hojaldres Recipe

  • 3 cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 cup whole milk
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 egg
  • 3 cups vegetable oil
  • 1 cup sifted powdered sugar

Preparation:

In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt.

In a small bowl, whisk the milk, 3 tablespoons of oil and the egg. Pour the mixture into the center of the dry ingredients, stirring in with a spoon.

Knead the dough until it turns into a ball that doesn’t stick to the sides of the bowl. Adjust consistency with a bit more flour or a bit of water if needed.

Once the dough has formed a ball, turn it out on a floured counter. Knead until the dough is elastic and soft.

Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator for a least two hours.

Remove the dough from the fridge and roll it by hand into a long rope about 2 inches in diameter.

Heat oil to a 2-inch depth in a large straight-sided skillet. Oil is ready when a pinch of dough sizzles and bounces immediately to the surface.

Pinch off 1 1/2-inch sections of dough and flatten them to your desired size. Some cooks like to flatten them thin then roll them up, but that method tends to retain more oil.

Drop the dough into the oil and wait for the pieces to rise to the surface, about two minutes. Note cooking time, turn the pieces over and cook the other side.

Drain the hojaldras on a cooling rack and sprinkle with powdered sugar before serving.

 

Empanada Recipe

Dough:

  • ounces of butter, plus more for brushing tops
  • 1 ½ teaspoons salt
  • 6 Cups all-purpose flour,  more if needed

Filling:

  • 1 pound beef chuck, cubed or coarsely ground
  • Salt and pepper
  • Olive oil, for sautéing
  • 1 cup diced onion
  • 2 ounces diced chorizo
  • ½ pound potatoes, peeled and diced
  • 4 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste
  • 2 teaspoons chopped thyme
  • 1 teaspoon oregano
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 tablespoon paprika
  • Generous pinch cayenne
  • Beef broth
  • ½ cup chopped scallions, white and green parts
  • ¼ cup chopped pitted green olives

Preparation:

Put 1-1/2 teaspoons salt in large mixing bowl. Melt butter and dissolve salt. Cool to room temperature.

Gradually stir in flour with a spoon until dough comes together. Knead for a minute or two on a floured counter, until firm and smooth. Add more flour if needed. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour. This can be done the night before.

Make the filling: Season chopped beef generously with salt and pepper and set aside for 10 minutes. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a wide heavy skillet over medium heat. Add beef and fry until nicely browned, stirring throughout to keep pieces separate.

Add onion and chorizo. Keep turning mixture with a spatula until onion is softened and browned. Add potatoes, garlic, and thyme. Stir well to incorporate. Season again with salt and pepper and let mixture cook for 2 more minutes. Stir in tomato paste, and cayenne, then a cup of broth. Turn heat to simmer, stirring well.

Cook for about 10 more minutes, until both meat and potatoes are tender and the sauce coats them. Taste and adjust seasoning for full flavor. Stir in scallions and cool. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Divide chilled dough into 1-ounce pieces and form into 2-inch diameter balls. Roll each piece into a 4 1/2-inch circle. Lay circles on a baking sheet lightly dusted with flour.

Moisten outer edge of each round with water. Put about 2 tablespoons filling in the center of each round, adding a little chopped green olive. Wrap dough around filling to form the empanada, and press the edges together. Fold edge back and finish by crimping with a fork.

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place empanadas on an oiled baking sheet, about 1 inch apart. Brush tops lightly butter and bake until golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve warm.

You should get about 3 dozen Empanadas

Empanadas can be filled with many different toppings. Search on the internet for other creative topping ideas. We will try these with Pollo, la carne de vaca (beef), and fruta.

Let’s review…We have learned a couple of more Spanish words, and we won’t be hungry. Empanadas are like a pasty here in Michigan and Hojaldres are like a donut. Next time we will explore the lunch offerings at the fonda. Please enjoy these recipes and let us know what you think. As always, stay tuned in, like, share and take this journey with us.