Our Year in Review 2024

Without a doubt, 2024 was our biggest adventure year of retirement. We visited over seventeen different countries and saw some amazing sights. We celebrated a monumental birthday with my mom in Florida. I attended a writer’s conference in Greece with bestselling authors Jonas Saul and CC Humphries. We cruised on three ships to visit the Greek Isles, almost the entire perimeter of South America, including the Strait of Magellan (Cape Horn), and revisited the Caribbean. If I don’t yet have your attention, read on. I will share some amazing adventures and slip in a few incredible pictures.

In February, my sister Melinda, her husband Hunter, Jen, and I, along with our three daughters, their spouses, and grandchildren, gathered in Fort Myers, Florida, for a surprise party to celebrate our mom’s birthday. I wanted to share a few pictures from the party. It’s not often that a surprise of this magnitude can be executed with such precision. Great job, Melinda.

In March, Jen and I flew to Santiago, Chile, for a great South American adventure. Our detailed blog post about the trip is in the blog archives. We explored Santiago and some of the Chilian interior before boarding the Norwegian Star to sail the coast of South America for 24 days. Our journey ended in Rio de Janeiro. When blogging our year in review, I never intended to repost what I’ve already posted. If you missed the South America Adventure, I hope you will click the link here or on the sidebar.

The Norwegian Star

In May, we celebrated Jen’s birthday and entry into the American Social Security system. Our good, life-long friends from Michigan came to Panama to help celebrate. The week was full of local adventure and celebration.

We enjoyed a special six-course dinner hosted by Chef Aristoteles at Nazca 21. One of our favorite entertainers, Pascal Turner, entertained us while course after course was delivered to the table.

One of the places that our visitors always ask to visit is Valle de Anton. It’s always a place where repeat visitors want to return. We explored the Sunday Market and The Museo del Valle de Anton before having brunch at the Golden Frog. The restaurant is off the beaten path, but the food is good, and our server spoke English. Our guests enjoyed the delightful patio atmosphere.

We certainly took our guests to the beach and pool while they were here. They asked for relaxation over adventure, which was fine with us. 

Our visit wrapped up with a day of adventure in Panama City. We journeyed to Casco Viejo, where we toured St. Joseph Church (The Golden Altar Church), the Panama Canal Museum, the Mola Museum, and the I Love Panama Chocolate Company. We wrapped up the last day with a visit to the Panaviera at the top of the former Trump Tower (J.W. Marriott). We had a delightful meal there while the sun set on our visitors’ final day of adventure.

The five of us enjoying the sunset

A few days after our Michigan friends left, we welcomed our oldest granddaughter to Panama. Jen and I have decided to have each of the grandchildren to Panama just before their senior year of high school. The time we spent with Victoria was special for all of us. We adventured and explored every minute of the ten-day visit. If you missed the blog post about Victoria’s visit in June, I hope you will click the link here, Victoria’s Panama Adventure, or on the sidebar to check it out. We are proud of Victoria’s accomplishments. She has chosen to continue her education at the University of Alabama, Birmingham. She was accepted and offered substantial scholarships. Congratulations kiddo.

Exploring the Amador Causeway

In early September, we went whale watching with eight friends in a panga on the Gulf of Chiriqui. We all agreed that it was the best whale-watching trip we had taken. Our guide, Captain Jay, had the whales figured out perfectly. There were times when we had whales in all directions. Our hosts at El Regalo Resort booked our tour and hosted us in delightful rooms. The resort has five suites, and we occupied the entire place. Jenni and Carroll have made their place the best of the best in Boca Chica. They have a chef who never disappoints. Our breakfasts and dinners were perfectly prepared, and the bartender kept the drinks flowing while we swam in the beautiful pool. I am sharing a gallery of great pictures from our adventure below.  Adventuring in Panama never gets old, especially with good friends.

By the middle of September, we returned to the skies for the pinnacle of our 2024 travel.  We flew from Panama to Miami for an overnight layover. Then, we traveled to London, where we met some friends, Joanne and Kirk. They took us for the best fish and chips and gave us an all-star tour of London before returning us to the airport for our flight to Athens.

We left London on a late flight to Athens, Greece. We arrived in Greece, transferred to the port, and caught a ferry to the island of Amorgos. On the third day since leaving Panama, we arrived at the Lakki Village Resort by midafternoon. It was a long day of travel and time zone jumping. I don’t know if it was adrenaline or excitement, but jet lag never caught up with us. We got plenty of sleep on the transportation and layovers.

Amorgos was the site of my writing retreat with Chris (CC) Humphries and Jonas Saul. It was amazing. After we arrived and unpacked, there was time to explore the resort. Our entire writer’s group gathered for a beautiful welcome dinner. After dinner, there was time to get better acquainted poolside with the facilitators and attendees anxious to discuss writing.

At the first morning session, we introduced ourselves and discussed what we were writing and what we were looking for from the retreat. The guest authors discussed the industry and offered clarity on direction. I had face time with all of the great authors at the retreat. Jen and I had lunch with Chris Humphreys and his significant other, Kat.

Jen and I with Chris and Kat

The second-day program was The Mountain: Beginning the Novel and Finishing It! Award-winning historical, crime, and fantasy novelist Chris (CC) Humphreys revealed some of his secrets of successful writing. Chris broke the writing journey into stages and guided us through each stage using a blend of anecdotal examples. Later in the afternoon, we gathered for a writing exercise.

On the third day, we discussed the discipline of creating the novel, how much emotion should be on the page, and how to place the tension in the right spots to keep readers turning the pages. We discussed setting up the book to be psychologically pleasing to the reader, leaving them with the emotional experience readers read for. Reading is an emotional journey, so make them feel it, and they’ll love you for it and tell all their friends about you (your book). After our session, we walked together to the village for lunch at an amazing local place. We gathered for drinks and casual discussion in the late afternoon before our evening meal.

On the fourth day, we learned to write a good fight scene that entertains while advancing the plot and revealing the character. How characters fight can reveal as much about them as how they make love. A good author must chance to delve into the dark side to broaden and deepen their characters and plot. Fight and sex scenes are a huge opportunity for any writer to confirm a suspicion or to startle with a revelation. A “character in peril” keeps the pages turning.

Later in the afternoon, we toured the 11th-century monastery of Agia Anna and the white village of Chora.

On our last day of workshops, we discussed promotion outside social media. Chris Humphreys and Jonas Saul demonstrated how to get our work in front of readers through proven results. This concluded the educational portion of our week. I met with Jonas Saul and enjoyed an awesome one-on-one lunch meeting. He shared his thoughts with me on a sample from the rough draft of Mayhem in Eagle Cove, the second of the Detective Larry series. His kind words about my upcoming novel were informative and inspirational. It was clear that this workshop would be a turning point in my writing experience. Exciting things will happen over the next few months as I finish the draft and send it to the editor. By the way, Mr. Saul has agreed to edit the upcoming book.

After lunch, we gathered for a village hike. Jonas led the three-hour hike from the ancient village of Lagada to Tholaria and back to the hotel. The gallery of photos below is a few from the hike. In one village, we stopped at Jonas’s home, where he unselfishly invited us in to see where he and Rania write and live during the high season on Amorgos. We were back in time for pre-dinner drinks. I’ve talked very little about the food at the resort. We gathered as a group each night and enjoyed a family-style Greek meal. Every day of the retreat was filled with information and encouragement that drove each attendee to be their best. We all came from different countries and backgrounds and wrote different genres, but the ability to feed off the knowledge of one another was as wonderful as the learning portions of our time there.

With the retreat ended, we left the resort at 4:45 a.m. for a ferry departure at 5:45. The ferry took us to Athens, where our driver picked us up and took us to our hotel, Attalos. After unpacking and settling into the hotel, we toured the Acropolis Museum.

Sunday at 11:00 a.m., we saw the changing of the guards at Syntagma Square. This is considered the best time to see this happen, and we had a great spot to view it.

Later in the evening, we toured Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon at sunset and got some great pictures.

We arranged to explore the ruins of ancient Corinth and the Corinth Canal the following day. We enjoyed a scenic drive from Athens to Corinth along the shores of the Saronic Gulf. The journey took us past beautiful beaches and the spectacularly narrow Corinth Canal, built to link the Saronic and Corinth Gulfs during the 1890s. Like the Panama Canal, it required several attempts before finally being completed. First proposed in the third century B.C. it wasn’t completed until 1893. In stark contrast, it is sea-level with no locks, narrow, and one single channel. It is 4 miles long and eighty feet wide making it impassable by most modern ships.

We strolled around the relics of Corinth, once an influential ancient Greek and Roman city, and then visited the seaside town of Kehreai.

Upon returning to Athens, we spent time exploring Monastiraki Square. The square was less than a six-minute walk from our hotel, and we found great Greek restaurants, shops, and a market. We found a place to change some money to Euros and bought a charge block for our phones. Taking pictures and roaming quickly depletes our phone batteries.

To put things in perspective, we arrived in Athens ahead of our travel buddies Daniel and Laura. They had been in the country for a few days and preferred exploring the countryside in a rental car. We finally caught up with them two days before the departure of our Greek cruise. Together, we visited the sites of Athens, starting with the Acropolis and Parthenon. Our hotel had a magnificent rooftop bar with amazing views, but nothing compared with fighting through the crowds to get up-close and personal.

The Acropolis

From there, we used the hop-on, hop-off bus, a great way to travel from site to site. We visited many archaeological sites and museums. Our first stop was the Temple of Zeus and the National Gardens. We then went to the National Archeological Museum. Time was getting the best of us, and we wanted to see more ruins, so we continued to the Ancient Agora (market), Hadrian’s Library, and the Temple of Hephaistos. We wrapped up our day with dinner at an amazing seafood restaurant, then a photo opportunity at the rooftop bar of our hotel.

We had breakfast together on our last day in Athens before parting ways. Daniel and Laura adventured in the morning while Jen and I packed and went for early boarding on the Norwegian Pearl. We reconnected later on the ship. They shared some great pictures from the morning.

When traveling with friends, everyone chooses what they want to see and do. We took numerous tours while Daniel and Laura took other excursions. We seldom went on the same adventures. Jen and I continued to explore archeological sites throughout Greece and beyond. The Norwegian Pearl moved us seamlessly from port to port.

The Norwegian Pearl

Our first port was Santorini. It is said that Santorini has more churches than houses, donkeys than people, and wine than water.

We visited Akrotiri, one of the 10 top Archaeological sites in the world, and learned about the prehistoric city, also known as the Pompei of the Aegean. The Theran eruption of approximately 1627 B.C. destroyed this unique Minoan settlement, and Spyridon Marinatos started the extensive excavation in 1967.

The nearly thirty-five centuries-old city still preserves many remains of its fine frescoes, everyday objects, and artwork because the volcanic ash protected them from the elements. At the time of the eruption, the city had reached great development and prosperity, with an elaborate drainage system and sophisticated multistoried buildings. Among other things, Akrotiri has been suggested to be the inspiration for Plato’s story of Atlantis.

The unique archeological site is completely under cover to protect it from the elements as the archeologists work to uncover its well-preserved treasures.

Following our visit to Akrotiri, we stopped at an impressive winery to taste Santorini’s famous wines, enjoy the magnificent view, and relax in its peaceful environment. Jen and I felt that the views were much better than the wine. Others in our group loved the wine. My take on it is that you shouldn’t go to Greece for the wine.

Our final destination was Fira, the cosmopolitan capital and one of Greece’s most famous and picturesque places. We had time to admire the white houses built on the crater’s slopes and explore the narrow paths before taking the cable car and the tender back to the ship.

On the second day, the ship docked in Mykonos. We took a great 3-D tour of Delos. To reach the ruins, we boarded a smaller boat and cruised to the nearby sacred island of Delos. We viewed a wealth of ruins using an electronic tablet with augmented-reality software that showed the structures as they appeared in ancient times.

According to Greek mythology, Apollo and his twin sister Artemis were born in Delos and first settled in the third millennium B.C. Archaeological discoveries excavated here have been deemed so indicative of an ancient cosmopolitan port that the island is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

All of the structures on Delos are excavated ruins, except for the museum and a few buildings for personnel. The landscape remains largely unaltered since ancient times because a town was never built over the original port, a rarity few other archaeological sites share.

As we meandered through the rather barren island, we saw ruins that included temples, statues, mosaic floors, and roads, such as the Sacred Way, which leads to the Sanctuary of Apollo. Another highlight is the Terrace of Lions, named for the Naxian marble lions that guard it. The originals are in the island’s museum to protect them from the elements.

The electronic tablet with 3D augmented reality software enhanced our understanding and enjoyment of the ruins. We pointed the tablet’s camera at a ruin and could view the structure as it originally stood centuries ago.

It is believed that the population of this port was poisoned by pirates, leaving the site untouched for thousands of years before being discovered.

The cruise was port heavy. We stopped at a different site nearly every day. On the third day, we tendered ashore in Zakynthos for a captivating tour, introducing us to Zakynthos Town, the island’s oldest monastery and a traditional island village. We began with a guided tour of Zakynthos Town, sometimes called the Venice of the South. We saw the expansive square named after Dionysios Solomos, the revered poet who wrote Greece’s national anthem, and continued past splendid landmarks. The Byzantine Museum and the Church of Saint Nicholas were amazing.

We then went to the village of Bochali, located below a Venetian fortress, and appreciated sweeping views of Zakynthos Town and the sparkling Ionian Sea. At the 14th-century Monastery of Anafonitria, we learned that Saint Dionysios, Zakynthos’ patron saint, served as the monastery’s abbot for most of his life. We viewed colorful 15th-century frescoes uncovered during the monastery’s painstaking renovation.

In the traditional mountain village of Volimes, we were taken to a modern olive press. The tour explained how olives are prepared and crushed for olive oil. The press has been family-owned for over 100 years, and past equipment was displayed, showing the business’s innovation over the years. The tour ended with a stroll along the city’s main shopping area.

On the fourth day, the ship docked in Corfu, where we indulged in a 4×4 excursion. We enjoyed the fun and adventure of Corfu’s countryside while traveling over stony trails through the olive groves. We caught glimpses of the sparkling Ionian Sea and beautiful green hills and saw many locals’ traditional way of life. Our guide led us up the main coastal road to the island’s northeast. We then took small country roads to quaint villages, stopping at the most charming and oldest on the island to take in the views.

We went uphill on a narrow, winding road that zigzagged to Sokraki, where we stopped to admire one of the most fantastic panoramic views. Continuing on a dusty road, we arrived at Troumbetta. We passed through other picturesque sites before stopping at Bella Vista to enjoy more spectacular views while enjoying refreshments and Greek snacks. We found it difficult to decide which village was the most appealing.

We also visited a traditional Koum Kouat distillery. The Koum Kouat citrus fruit, which only grows in Corfu, is made into one of the island’s most famous products: a liqueur with the same name and fruit-preserved sweets. We viewed a small exhibition of antique distillery equipment, sampled the produce, and purchased a bottle of the local liquor.

Jen and I toured Lapad Bay & Old Town on our next cruise stop. We enjoyed the panoramic views of Dubrovnik while riding through the hilly Lapad Peninsula. At a bay on the peninsula’s western shore, we stopped for a short walk to the Sunset Beach Club. It was an ideal setting to linger over a drink and enjoy the sweeping views of the sparsely populated Elaphiti islands. Afterward, we visited Dubrovnik’s medieval Old Town, which UNESCO deemed a World Heritage site for its extraordinary architecture. As we walked along the main street, the Stradun, we saw Saint Savior Church, the polygonal Fountain of Onofrio, and the Old Pharmacy, founded in 1317. The defensive stone walls surrounding Old Town were built in the 13th century.

  • The next day, we tendered ashore in Kotor, Montenegro, for a highlights & cable car adventure. We viewed Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm from several characteristic locales, ending with a cable car ride from the summit of Kuk Hill. During the descent, we gazed out over Kotor, its namesake bay, and the surrounding mountains. The terrain was so striking that when playwright George Bernard Shaw visited, he famously quipped from nearby Mount Lovćen, “Am I in paradise or Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm on the moon?” The vistas were just as memorable as we traveled through Lovćen National Park to Cetinje, once the royal capital of Montenegro. Founded in the 15th century, it was a lovely setting for our lunch as it lies in a green bowl at the foot of Mount Lovćen. Our next stop was in Budva, a medieval port that inspired the English poet Lord Bryon. He described it as “the most beautiful meeting of land and sea” and we discovered it still is.

The ship docked the following day at Split, where we toured Split Old Town and Trogir Medieval City, taking advantage of a rare opportunity to visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the same day. We discovered the treasures of Trogir and saw how the Romans influenced the old city of Split. The medieval city of Trogir boasted architectural treasures of beautiful stone houses, palaces, churches, monasteries, towers, and walls. The entire town was like an open-air museum, so strolling through its narrow streets was an unforgettable experience.

We visited the main attraction in Trogir, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, probably the finest example of sacred architecture in Croatia. The unusual construction with three naves and three apses dominates the entire town. The main portal carved by local artist Radovan in the 13th century is world famous. We also saw the Town Loggi, Town Hall, and Cipiko Palace. Afterward, we had some free time to explore on our own.

The old town of Split is built on and around the massive palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian. It represents the most important example of Roman architecture on the Adriatic. Our tour started in the cellars, which are very well preserved. We saw the Cathedral of St. Duje, considered one of the world’s oldest Catholic cathedrals that retains its original structure. We also saw the Golden Gate, the Silver Gate, and the Peristyle Square.

Our Greek Island-hopping cruise reached its final port at Ravenna, Italy. We did not go ashore due to a tropical bora. The bora is a northerly to northeasterly katabatic wind in areas near the Adriatic Sea. Similar nomenclature is used for north-eastern winds in other coastal areas of the eastern Mediterranean and Black Sea basins. I copied and pasted this description from Wikipedia.

A Bora

We disembarked the Pearl several hours later than expected after bidding a fond farewell to the crew, who showed us a magnificent cruise. The bora had left our ship floating in the Mediterranean, awaiting disembarkation. We took a shuttle from the port of Trieste to our hotel near the airport in Venice. Time, logistics, and late arrival gave us little time in Venice. We missed our adventure there but took the evening to enjoy a great Italian meal and relax in our 17th-century hotel. The hotel has been in the same family for centuries and President Reagan was a guest there (see the photo below). Venice was deluged with rain and wind.

Our return to Panama barely allowed us to do the laundry before leaving for Washington D.C., Bethesda, and Annapolis, Maryland. Jen and I flew to Baltimore, Maryland, a few days before Jen’s younger brother’s wedding. We spent two days in Washington, D.C. I had never been there, and it was an excellent opportunity to see our nation’s capital.

The photos below are randomly ordered and don’t do our visit justice. During the two days there, we visited The White House, the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial, The Vietnam War Memorial, The FBI, The Supreme Court, The Library of Congress, The US Capitol, and more. We walked what seemed to be a thousand miles. Our Congressman, Greg Steube, arranged for a private tour of the Capitol with one of his aids. That was a highlight of our visit. I particularly enjoyed the Library of Congress, while Jen enjoyed The Supreme Court. Background checks were required for The White House and FBI tours, making prior planning a must. Jen had the whole thing arranged and scheduled in advance.

It was a beautiful Saturday at the Naval Academy in Annapolis for Jon and Karine’s wedding. The ceremony was beautiful, and we were pleased to welcome Karine into the family and pray for special blessings for their happiness. The pictures below are some I captured walking into the chapel, where no pictures were allowed, and one of Jon, Karine, and Jon’s boys in the superintendent’s garden. The other is Jon and Karine cutting the cake.

Cutting the Wedding Cake

After the wedding, Jen returned to Panama while I flew to Florida.  As many of you know, Dad’s wife, Renee, passed away just before our trip to Greece. I could spend ten days with him before I returned to Panama. My time in Florida was eye-opening. The first picture below is from three years ago. It’s from Gilcrest Park last Monday. I returned to the same location to take pictures while I was there. The devastation in the park was awful. Hurricane Helene created a storm surge, depositing two boats in the park. After Hurricane Milton, I counted almost sixteen boats in the park, pickleball courts, and across the street. The takeaway here is the power of the storm surge. My family and I had no significant damage from the storm, but as I visited with my dad for more than a week, the devastation was heartbreaking. There were hundreds of homes with all their furniture out by the street. Dumpsters in driveways collected drywall and carpets from flooded homes.

We returned to Florida late in November for Renee’s memorial. The Celebration of Life was the beautiful tribute she certainly deserved.
While in Florida, I was invited to speak at her book club. Several group members approached me at her Celebration of Life and asked that I join them for their regular monthly meeting. Many showed up with copies of Murder in Eagle Cove and asked that I sign them. Members of the group bought every copy I had with me. They added it to their current reading list, and we discussed where the series will go from the end of the first book. They are superfans, and I loved every minute of it. They are as anxious for the second in the series as I am. I’m working to have a mini launch and book signing in Punta Gorda, Florida, in May, along with a book signing tour from Florida to Boston, where the series takes place.
The Punta Gorda Book Club

We got our condo in Port Charlotte ready for our snowbird tenants before departing. Our plans for the last big adventure of the year were tweaked just a little for Renee’s memorial.

We drove to Miami, returned our rental car, and overnighted before boarding the Norwegian Joy.

Norwegian Joy

Our first port was in Cozumel, Mexico. Admittedly, this is someplace we’d been before, but how can you not love the adventuring experience there? We enjoyed a unique excursion, Cozumel by Land & Sea. It combined an insider’s view of local chocolate and tequila production as a postlude for exploring the wonders underwater in a semi-submersible. At the Mayan Cacao Company, we saw how chocolate is made from cacao. This process dates back to the ancient Mayans, who drank chocolate for ceremonial and medicinal purposes as far back as 500 BC. After sampling some creamy (and exceptionally yummy) chocolate, we proceeded to a tequila-tasting seminar for a tasting that presented the historical and cultural importance of tequila on the Yucatan peninsula.

A different perspective of Cozumel awaited us just offshore on Paradise Reef, where we explored the underwater world in a semi-submersible way. Although the vessel’s viewing windows were only a few feet below the water’s surface, the sights were extraordinary. We saw a riot of brilliantly colored fish and coral reefs.

Our second port was in Harvest Caye, Belize. This was another of the places we have yet to have the opportunity to explore. It was on the list of possible retirement destinations before choosing Panama. Our ship was the only one in port, making it an easy, laid-back stop. Jen and I enjoyed Rainforest River Tubing. There was a genuine feel for rural life while we drove through the densely forested countryside to Maya World Outpost, the starting point for our adventure. After a short briefing to help maximize the tubing experience, we eased into the refreshing but cold river, and the current carried us downstream. Floating down the slow-moving river on an inner tube, we took in the spectacular rainforest scenery while listening to the ambient sounds of the jungle. Mountain springs feed the river, so the water is crystal-clear. Along the way, we passed through a picturesque mountain gorge over a series of small rapids and under overhanging trees, keeping us primarily in the shade. The ever-changing scenery added to the excitement and made the trip memorable. We heard and saw squawking tropical birds abundant in the protected rainforest.

A Mayan Statue at the entrance of Maya World Outpost.

Next, we made port in Costa Maya, Mexico. We didn’t plan any excursions there as we’d visited before. We decided instead to remain aboard the ship and enjoy the incredible offerings. We opted to add the adults-only area, Vibe Club, to our package on this cruise. We loved the special adult-only atmosphere and enjoyed the hot tub and high-end bar. Taking a cruise is only sometimes about the amazing ports and adventures. We could kick back and relax while someone else did the cooking, laundry, and housekeeping. The bars and restaurants aboard the Norwegian ship did an excellent job keeping us fed and hydrated. Thanksgiving dinner was prime rib, soup, vegetables, and pumpkin cheesecake. We could have selected turkey and all the fixings, but why when the prime rib is on the menu? Another great benefit of a cruise vacation is the awesome shows…we had the Beetles on board. There were also comics and multiple talented entertainers rounding out the long list of entertainment.

Our delightful cruise continued to Roatan, Honduras, where we made port on Thursday. Roatan was another consideration for our retirement strategy. We have friends in Panama who nearly opted for this beautiful island offshore from Honduras. We could see why. It’s full of English-speaking expats, and the near-perfect tropical Caribbean climate was amazing.

Jen is hooked on ATV adventures. She booked us on an amazing adventure through the rainforest and mangroves. The adventure began in the village of Politilly Bight, where we hopped on ATVs and raced off caravan-style, following the guide into the surrounding wilderness. We saw the natural beauty that abounds in the island’s more remote regions, riding the ATV through a tropical rainforest. The recent rain and natural trails with potholes had mud flying, making driving all the more fun and our shoes and clothes dirty. After a brief stop at a traditional Garifuna village, we were transferred to Oak Ridge, the island’s oldest fishing community. From there, we cruised along the mangrove-lined shores of southern Roatan. Mangrove forests line the banks almost everywhere and often create tunnels in the tree canopy that our boat easily navigated through. Besides being environmentally beneficial, mangroves shelter many animals, especially water birds such as green herons and roseate spoonbills.

We concluded the cruise in Miami. With another great adventure in the rearview mirror, we departed the Port of Miami by coach with a knowledgeable guide for a one-hour drive to Everglades National Park. This world-renowned eco-system covers about 5,000 square miles and is home to most of Florida’s alligators, snakes, black bears, wild pigs, over two hundred species of birds, including herons, egrets, white ibis, anhingas, roseate spoonbills, wood storks, ospreys, hawks, vultures, eagles and more, plus the endangered and nocturnal Florida Panther – less than 100 remaining in the wild.

We boarded our airboat for a thirty-minute exhilarating ride over the “River of Grass,” where we encountered several different creatures. After the airboat ride, we enjoyed an alligator show and various crocodilian exhibits. We then had time to visit the souvenir shop. On the drive back to the city, our guide gave us great insight into the two Florida tribes of Native American Indians.

Our Miami adventure continued with a sightseeing and millionaire boat tour. We started at South Beach in the Art Deco History District. After South Beach, we explored the Wynwood Art District before moving on to Little Havana. The guide had our driver take us through Coconut Grove, Miami’s oldest and most prestigious neighborhood. At the Bayside Marketplace, we had lunch before boarding the Millionaire’s Cruise. The guide pointed out celebrity homes and offered fun facts. It went by so fast that all the homes photographed were not identified.

Our day ended at Superblue Miami, where Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s interactive artwork was presented in an amazing new sound and light installation by Studio Lemercier. Each room of the Superblue exhibit was a different experience. One room was full of bubbles falling from the ceiling, one had mirrors and lights, and another was a laser light experience.

After two full days of exploring Miami, we caught a flight with 18 other adventure seekers to Cuba. I stated earlier that the pinnacle of our adventures in 2024 was my Writer’s retreat in Greece. If you haven’t yet read our blog post from Cuba, it’s worth your time. I was blown away by the history, culture, and people there. You can use the link above or on the sidebar to access it.

I couldn’t conclude this post without talking about a few other significant things. I was invited to speak at several events and participated in some podcasts. My interview with Retire There is due to be published shortly.

Watch my newsletter for information about that as it becomes available. I had a great interview with Melissa Darnay from Choose Panama about our retirement, my writing, and life in Panama. That interview was posted to her website and nationwide on every platform where people enjoy great podcasts. My interview with Melissa is available here.

I talked earlier about Renee Johnson’s death. We also lost one of our dearest friends here in Panama, Barbara Munn. Barb and Renee were both instrumental in the writing of my first novel and advised me on the second before they passed. Jen and I are sad at the loss of these beautiful women. May they both rest in eternal peace.

We’re home in Panama, and it’s just a few days until Christmas. We anxiously await the miracle of the newborn Christ Jesus. We will be celebrating with our church family and fellowshipping on Christmas Eve. On Christmas day, we will be having a small dinner party with a few of our most special friends. Panama has provided Jen and me with special friendships that will last a lifetime.

The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events. Of course, if you’re not subscribed to receive this blog in your inbox, check the sidebar for the link to subscribe. I never share my subscriber list, and I never send spam. Your privacy is highly respected.

Have a blessed New Year,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Is there violent crime in Panama?

Jen and I went to dinner with our good friends, Mike and Diane, to celebrate one last meal with them at one of our favorite places in the community. They were returning to the States after concluding the sale of their condo. They decided to downsize to only one home and simplify their life.

After settling into our seats, we enjoyed our meals and relaxed in great conversation about some of the adventures and things we have experienced as friends here. True friends are friends for life, and we’ll continue to embrace their friendship across the miles, looking forward to their visits back to Panama or our visits to see them in the U.S.

Mike and Diane at Cafe Med

Our celebration was an experience none of us will soon forget. As the evening evaporated in delightful food and conversation, we were lost in our time together. As near as I can recall, it was nearly nine thirty when Diane gasped, looking toward the entrance to the restaurant. “This can’t be good,” she said. I glanced over my shoulder to see two armed thugs enter dressed entirely in black, covered from head to foot. Only their eyes were visible through their disguises. The two began screaming and yelling in Spanish, creating a ruckus in the restaurant. I have to interject here that I cannot accurately recount how much time passed or what exactly was transpiring as my back was to most of it.

They took cell phones and things easily accessible and visible off tables while the guests sat in horror. At one table in my field of vision, a patron fought with one who was trying to take his wife’s purse. The guy was forced to the ground after being assaulted by the gunman. The owner was robbed. The entire event was scarcely moments before the owner began shouting back in Spanish, getting in the face of one of the perpetrators. At our table, my phone was all that was taken. I witnessed several other patrons hiding their wallets and purses.

As the two ran from the restaurant, another patron produced a weapon and chased them. He hollered at them in Spanish before firing shots as they climbed the fence across the street. The restaurant is an open garden with a clear street view through the plants and greenery. I saw the patron firing at them, but I cannot say with certainty if he fired all four shots or if some were return fire. Based on my perception of the sound of the shots, all four were fired from the same weapon.

I suspect someone had dialed the police relatively soon in the ordeal because they arrived quickly. They began tracking the perpetrators, climbing the fence, and finding blood before recovering the items taken. One police officer was injured climbing the fence where the perps disappeared. The responding officers worked to recover the stolen property while others took statements from patrons. They disarmed the shooter and treated him respectfully as he helped translate between the English-speaking patrons and the Spanish-speaking law enforcement.

The following day, we went to the Department of Judicial Investigation (DJI) to claim my stolen cell phone. It was then that I realized how much of the harrowing event I could not recall. I credit God with our veil of protection, which kept us safe. It may have been that veil of protection that affected my recount or something else, but adrenalin surged through my body while I paid the bill and gave my statement to the police officers at the scene. I blamed that adrenaline rush on my fatigue as the week progressed.

DJI was friendly and welcoming. They provided an interpreter for me as I was asked to give my statement in my native language (a right of all victims in Panama). I signed a document warning of providing false testimony, another informing me of my rights as a victim, and a form releasing and returning my property, which had been taken. I was asked to provide a fingerprint at each place I signed. They informed me of the apprehension of one of the perps and that the other was known and being pursued. This information gave me more comfort than the return of my cell phone.

DJI is the bridge between the initial police response and the investigation for prosecution of a crime. They are an arm of the Fiscalia (Attorney General’s Office). If DJI responds to the scene of a crime, they will conduct an initial investigation. However, they cannot conduct a full or follow-up investigation unless you go to the local Denuncia Center and file an official report. Filing a Denuncia is the ONLY way to open a case and get a tracking number. Once you have filed a Denuncia and obtained a Denuncia number, you can use that number to follow up on the status of your case.

The police response in Panama is different than in the United States.  The police will respond to provide immediate assistance and protection to victims, will arrest suspects if they are still on the scene or nearby (assuming they have probable cause that the suspect indeed committed a crime), and, if necessary, call for DJI investigators (see more about DJI above).  The Police will NOT take a report or conduct a follow-up investigation.  They may take some data for statistical purposes but are not empowered to file reports or conduct investigations.  If your call to the police is not timely (i.e., when the crime is discovered), there is little the police can do.  If you delay reporting the crime, or if it is minor, you should go straight to DJI.

Investigating a case takes 2 to 4 months, and prosecution can take years.

In addition to reporting crime to Panamanian authorities, U.S. citizens are encouraged to provide information on criminal incidents to the U.S. Embassy. This information will assist the embassy in tracking crimes against U.S. citizens in Panama and following up with authorities.

When reporting a crime to the American Citizen Services unit of the Consular Section, please provide the following information by email to panama-acs@state.gov or by visiting their website and clicking on the crime report link, which you should find on the website. The following information will requested:

·         U.S. Passport Number of victim

·         DJI Report Number and Date Filed

·         Type of Crime Committed

·         In-depth narrative of the crime you were the victim of, including the following information:

a.       Crime location (province, city/area, neighborhood, etc.)

b.      Number of US Citizens affected.

c.       Date and approximate time of day the crime took place.

d.      The monetary amount of valuables/objects taken/destroyed (if applicable)

e.       Action taken after the crime was committed (police report, etc.)

I wanted to share the victim rights offered in Panama. I spent a great deal of time looking for a good translation of the rights provided by the law here. Jen located this website, and I’m sharing a document from it.

The rights of crime victims in Panama

Victims’ rights are special guarantees granted to those who have suffered harm due to crime and serious human rights violations.

Human rights are rights inherent to all human beings, without distinction of nationality, place of residence, sex, national or ethnic origin, color, religion, language, or any other condition; we all have the same human rights without discrimination.

According to Panamanian criminal legislation, victims have the following rights:

  • The right to receive medical, psychiatric or psychological, spiritual, material, and social care when required in the cases provided by law.
  • The right to intervene as a complainant to demand the defendant’s criminal responsibility and to obtain civil compensation for the damages resulting from the crime.
  • The right to receive protection when the judge and the competent court must decide or fix the amount of a release bond or grant a personal precautionary measure instead of preventive detention in favor of the defendant.
  • The right to be informed about the course of the respective criminal proceedings and to receive explanations related to the development of the process.
  • The right to be heard by the judge when they are present at the request for dismissal of charges presented by the Public Ministry or prosecutor’s office.
  • The right to promptly receive the assets of their property or of their lawful possession seized as evidence during the criminal proceeding when they are not necessary for the process.
  • The right to receive free legal assistance from the state through a Panamanian lawyer to obtain reparation for the damage resulting from the crime and to cooperate with the prosecutor’s office to exercise the criminal action.
  • Any other right that the laws indicate.

On the other hand, defendants have the following rights:

  • The right to presumption of innocence
  • The right to know the reasons for their detention.
  • The right to communicate with a family member and their defense lawyer in Panama.
  • The right not to be subjected to arbitrary detention or investigative techniques that violate their dignity or alter their free will.
  • The right to an attorney
  • The right to a certified translator or interpreter if they do not understand the Spanish language.
  • The right not to testify against themselves.
  • The right to appeal.
  • The right to be brought before a court or judge promptly.
  • The right not to be discriminated against
  • The right to be treated well and to be fed.
  • The right to health in Panama
  • The right to receive periodic information about their legal situation from their private attorney, public defender, or the Panamanian Penitentiary System.

If you need to speak with a criminal defense attorney or a legal translator in the Republic of Panama, please message them at the link above.

It amazes us how many friends and relatives from near and far offered a shoulder or kind ear to listen. A special thanks go to Mitzy Casey, who held our hands, guiding us through the process at DJI, and my translator Emerson, who talked me through the forms. Thank you to the kind police officers and the Assistant Prosecutor. Thank you also goes to the other victims who remained calm in the dire situation, and Jasmine, a voice on the phone with Jen, who ensured us that her husband, Issac (a local police Lieutenant), was in the loop. Issac is an advocate for ex-pats in our community.

We recently returned to Cafe Med with friends. The decision to return to the restaurant so soon after the tragic event was healing for Jen and me, while the others agreed to support us and refuse to allow terror to victimize our ability to enjoy the home we love.  Crime like the one we experienced could have occurred anywhere.

Jon and Sue Wizarde at Cafe Med

Our return was six days following the robbery, and we found the proprietor, Franco, attempting a return to flawless service and excellent food. The place was packed to capacity by ex-pats and Panamanians in an outpouring of support and our same refusal to be terrorized.

I found this helpful information for tourists in Panama. Safety and crime information. I have copied and pasted it here to give visitors and residents a perspective on what they may expect as they travel around Panama.

Panama remains relatively safe compared to other Central American countries, yet crime rates are still higher than in most of the United States. Violent crime in Panama started to rise in 2007. However, new efforts by Panama’s National Police (PNP) to combat this trend appear to have made an impact. Beginning in June 2010, the number of homicides in the country declined and continued downward through 2012. Unfortunately, the rate of simple theft was up, with “Blackberry”-type smartphones being a particular target. The three provinces with the largest cities also had the highest overall crime rates: Panama, Colon, and Chiriqui. The entire town of Colon is a high-crime area; travelers should use extreme caution anywhere in Colon.

Police continue to conduct vehicle checkpoints at key intersections in the city to raise their visibility and hamper criminals’ movements. The high crime areas in and around Panama City are El Chorrillo, San Miguel, Santa Ana, Cabo Verde, Curundu, Veracruz Beach, Santa Librada, Rio Abajo, San Miguelito, Panama Viejo, and the Madden Dam Overlook.

Crimes are typical of those that plague metropolitan areas and include shootings, rapes, armed robberies, muggings, purse-snatchings, thefts from locked autos by breaking windows for entry, thefts of unsecured items, petty theft, and occasionally “express kidnappings” from ATM banking facilities, in which the victim is briefly kidnapped and robbed after withdrawing cash from an ATM. There has also been a recent spike in credit card and ATM fraud reports. Criminals capture credit and ATM card information to clone and create fraudulent cards. Kidnappings have been on the rise of late, including in Panama City. Many of the kidnappings appear related to drug or criminal activity.

There has also been a recent increase in thefts from cars. We encourage travelers and residents to take all valuables out of their vehicles and place them in their trunks before they get to their destinations. Drivers should keep their windows up while the car is in motion or stopped in traffic, at traffic lights, or at their destinations to prevent items from being stolen while driving.

Taxis are a helpful way to maneuver around Panama; however, use caution when getting into a taxi. Check that the number on the side of the taxi matches the number on the license plate. Ensuring the car is a registered taxi with a number on the side is a quick way to help prevent any incidences. Regular taxis are yellow. Also, never get into a taxi that already has a passenger and instruct the driver not to pick up any additional fares while en route to your destination. Many hotels also have “tourist taxis” that are not yellow but only pick up passengers in front of well-known hotels.

U.S. citizens are advised never to let a “helpful” stranger direct them to a particular taxi or taxi stand and always negotiate the fare before getting in to ensure a fixed price.

Regarding non-drug-related crime, using weapons (handguns and knives) in the commission of street robberies is common; however, gratuitous violence is uncommon as long as the victim complies and hands over the property. In 2013, there was an increase in violence during theft. Home burglaries and, more worrying, home-invasion robberies do appear to be on the rise, especially in the more affluent neighborhoods. Panama City has a curfew for those younger than 18 years of age that is generally from 8:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Friday and Saturday. The times are subject to change depending on your location within Panama. If you are concerned about the exact time, you may contact local police. This curfew applies to both Panamanian and foreign citizens. Under the law, students attending night classes must have a “carnet” or permit issued by the school or, if employed, a Certificate of Employment. Minors picked up for a curfew violation are subject to detention at a police station until parents or legal guardians can arrange for them to be released into their custody. Parents or legal guardians may be fined up to U.S. $50 for the first violation.

Panamanian customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Panama of items such as firearms and ammunition, cultural property, endangered wildlife species, narcotics, biological material, and food products. Contact the Embassy of Panama in Washington or one of Panama’s Consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements.

Don’t buy counterfeit and pirated goods, even if they are widely available. Not only are the bootlegs illegal in the United States, but you may also be breaking local law if you purchase them.

You are responsible for ensuring that you meet and comply with foreign entry and health requirements and possess the appropriate travel documents. Information provided is subject to change without notice. One should confirm content before traveling from other reliable sources. Information published on this website may contain errors. You travel at your own risk, and we provide no warranties or guarantees.

Visitors and residents in Panama can expect crime to be similar to any other location worldwide. My best advice is to be aware of your surroundings and protect your belongings. I have always professed to be cautious when entering a taxi, engaging in a transaction, or entering an area of higher criminal activity.

Recently, we took a tour of the El Chorrillo barrio community, where gang activity dates back to the Noriega regime. Our tour was led by a capable guide, Victor Peretz, who helped us understand the neighborhood’s people and activities. Without his guidance, we would never attempt to enter this area. While there, we witnessed the police presence, children playing in the streets, a park with people playing dominoes, and a community center that was a safe haven for children to gather. We also had the opportunity to visit a neighborhood bar and a kitchen where local food is prepared, and cooking classes are hosted. Victor pointed out the gang houses and the graffiti art. This is the neighborhood where Roberto Duran and many famous jazz and blues entertainers were born and raised. The community is the home of seven current soccer players from the Panama Soccer team.

Neighborhood History in Street Art
Gang House
Roberto Duran (street art)

This neighborhood borders the famous Casco Viejo area where the Presidential Palace is located. The Casco Viejo gentrification is pushing the borders, and we found it heartbreaking that many people in this depressed community were being driven from the homes where their families have lived for generations.

Street Food Vendor
Dominoes in the park
A neighborhood bar. The beers were $1.

The story’s moral is that we would never have experienced this area without the guidance of Victor. No visitor should go to this neighborhood alone, expecting to be safe. Likewise, no visitor should attempt to visit Colon without a capable guide. Review the list of areas in the article above before setting out on adventures.

Jen and I at Fort Lorenzo Castle near Colon

Jen and I, with numerous adventure buddies, have been to many of these areas. I have detailed these adventures in previous blog posts, my newsletter, my Facebook feed, and my book, 2 Retire In Panama. That doesn’t mean we advocate putting ourselves in danger. Use due diligence and protect your belongings. Keep your wallet and cell phone in your front pocket, and don’t wear expensive jewelry. Most of Panama is safe. Enjoy the beauty of this country, and feel free to explore.

A Full Month of Adventures

Jen and I started our month of adventures on January 23 when we went to Panama City to prepare for a short visit to Florida.  We are fully vaccinated and not required to test for covid when we travel TO Panama, but when we travel to the United States, even though we are citizens, a negative covid test is required.  I am going to climb on my soap box for one brief moment, and then I will continue the story. The United States hardly requires masks, and the infection rate is under control enough for the President to repeal mask mandates at the White House.  However, citizens traveling from a foreign country to the US must get a negative covid test to go home after a vacation or to visit friends and family there.  We got our negative covid test and, as resident Jubilado’s, paid $30 USD each with our discount.  Travelers without this benefit must pay $50 USD each, adding to the cost of travel.  I believe that this is governmental overreach.  Immigrants crossing the southern border are not tested and are allowed to board buses and flights all over the country, but as a tax-paying US Citizen, I must provide a negative test to go home.  It is time to stand up to the tyranny of the government on this matter. These useless requirements should be removed.

We got our negative test at the airport which is required to be taken the day before travel. This cleared us to travel to our 2nd home in Florida on a flight the next day.  Our winter guests in our condo were to arrive on February 1st, and we wanted to make sure everything was perfect for their arrival.

We got our negative test.

On Monday we boarded our flight to Florida.  While in Florida we visited Jen’s brother, Bill, and his wife, Deb.  They were snow-birding in Fort Myers, and it provided an excellent time to catch up with them.  They treated us to a great meal at one of their favorite restaurants.  In the morning, we all went over to a great outlet mall near their place, and I managed to buy a jacket and a couple of new shirts.  Note to self…even in Florida a jacket will be necessary during the winter months. We had a delightful visit at their vacation condo, before continuing on to our place in Port Charlotte.

Mom and Rich had been staying in our condo since the end of November.  It was a great time to be sure all the kinks were worked out.  There were a few small mechanical issues that they were able to take care of for us before we arrived.  One other issue required that we replace the washer and dryer before our guest’s arrival.  With the nationwide logistics crisis, this was easier said than done.  But we persevered and on Saturday, the new laundry pair was delivered.  This gave mom time to do their laundry before traveling to Panama.  We also had time to get all the sheets and towels washed before leaving, getting the condo in tip top shape for our winter visitors.

In addition to dealing with a few small problems, we were able to do some other visiting before turning our condo over on February 1st.

Lime Tequila in Port Charlotte is our favorite when we are there

The main reason we wanted to be in Florida at the end of January was to bring Mom and Rich back to Panama.  They had been reluctant to travel to Panama because of the language barrier, and they had rarely been outside of the United States.  On Tuesday February 1st the four of us boarded our flight in Miami for our non-stop flight to Tocumen International Airport in Panama City, Panama.

Loaded and awaiting departure

Our arrival in Panama was late evening, and I choose not to drive after dark when possible.  We had reservations at the Riande Hotel near the airport. This is where Jen and I had stayed prior to our departure for Florida, and they allowed us to park in their secure lot for about $5 USD per day.  This detail is for those of you who may be looking for similar options in your travel to and from Panama.  We stayed the night, had a nice breakfast, and found the car just as I left it.  We loaded up the next day, and began our journey to Coronado.

Our journey took us past Casa de Jamon and Price Smart.  We made brief stops at both.  Casa de Jamon is a great restaurant supply-type food store in Costa Del Este.  We picked up a few groceries there and went on to Price Smart for a few other things.  Then it was on to our home in Coronado.

We arrived in Coronado mid-afternoon, and our special guests were able to settle in and relax in preparation for their full month of adventure.  Our dinner plan took us to Gold Coast Brewery for half price wing night.  There they met a few of our friends, and we enjoyed the wings.

I do not know where to begin other than to take the whole month in chronological order.  That first partial week, we relaxed by the pool, took the buggy to the beach for some sand play, Rich got a haircut, and Mom and Jen got pedicures.  Thursday is our weekly domino game. Mom and Rich joined us each week during their visit.   Throughout Covid, Jen and I got together with the same small group of friends for this weekly event, and it has continued.  Everyone agrees that it was one of the things that helped us all maintain our sanity during the lockdowns and other measures imposed by MINSA to keep everyone safe from the virus.

Low tide. We explored a great stretch of beach
Pool time
Saturday morning at the club pool
Mom got a beach excursion too

My favorite barber gave Rich a trim.

The other constant during their visit was Sunday worship at Coronado Bible Church.  Each week we had brunch after church with many of our awesome friends.  Our special guests enjoyed the church, brunches, and meeting a few of our friends each week.  They were slowly beginning to understand why we love our life here in Panama.  Mom loved that I was an active participant in the praise team at church.

Our first adventure outside our little community was to El Valle de Anton.  We included good friends Diane and Mike for a full day of exploring up there.  El Valle has been a favorite of all of our visitors, with those who have had repeated visits always wanting to return.  There are so many places there that we had a difficult time choosing which to explore.  That day we took them to the Orchid Sanctuary, The Butterfly House, El Macho Falls, and the Sunday Market.  We were disappointed that our favorite restaurant was closed.  This gave us a chance to try another place that just did not meet our high standards.  The market gave me a chance to grab some fresh vegetables while everyone else shopped the vendors.  El Valle is a short 45-minute drive from Coronado straight up the mountain.  The entire village lies in the crater of a volcano.  The climate is a bit cooler than the beach communities, and many expats live there.  Check out my book or the archives of this blog to learn more about this magnificent place.

Ready for adventures

El Macho Falls. We couldn’t get them to zip-line it.

The bookstore, El Hombre de La Mancha, had requested more books which I was able to bring back from the States.  The second Thursday our guests were here we went back into the city to make the delivery.  This was a big highlight for me as, when we arrived, they asked me for an interview and photo session.  They are promoting my book on their social media, and it appears that it is selling well in their stores.  The delivery allowed them to stock it in every store nationwide.  We were surprised to find it among the Panama Travel and History books despite the fact that it is only offered in English.  People who have looked for it in the English section have been unable to find it in the stores.  The price for it here in their stores is higher, but the bookstore is a huge advocate for literacy in Panama.  That makes my day to feel like I am doing some small part for literacy here.

Mom found it in the main store in San Francisco

Karen Ceballos, Director of Marketing at El Hombre de La Mancha

After leaving the bookstore we were able to take Mom and Rich for lunch at one of our favorite restaurants in the city, Michael’s.  Mike Nikolich is the owner, and his place is a very successful for breakfast and lunch. He is a native of Michigan and has spent years in the restaurant business in Panama.  Following lunch, we went down to Panama Viejo.  This is the original ruins of the first Panama City.  It was the first port where goods entered the country and were transported over land to the Caribbean for shipment to the America’s, Europe, and Spain.  This gave our guests a perspective of what Panama was like before the canal was constructed.  This location was repeatedly attacked by pirates who were after the precious gold and silver from South America.  The city was later relocated to what is now called Casco Viejo (old town), where they could more easily protect it.

Mike Nikolich grabbed a copy of my book.
Mom and Rich in front of the tower at Panama Viejo

The following week we caught up with our good friend, and the master of tour guides, Marc Vargas, to take an adventure to the Caribbean side of the country.  Marc picked us up and took us for a look at the Agua Clara Lock on the Caribbean end of the canal.  Agua Clara is the new lock designed to accommodate the huge Pana Max ships.  This gave Rich a firsthand look at how the canal works.  Marc took us from there to the Gatun Locks just adjacent to the Agua Clara lock.  The visitor center there is closed, but we were able to see a cruise ship passing through over the hill.  He continued on down to the Gatun Dam where the Chagres River is dammed to provide water to Lake Gatun which is a huge part of the canal passage.  We went from there across the new Atlantic Bridge.  I call this the bridge to nowhere because, when it was completed, the road leading away from it on the west side of the canal was dirt.  It is now paved and leads to Fort Sherman, Shelter Bay and Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  We visited all three.  The road is now nicely paved right through the jungle to the ruins at San Lorenzo.  It is also paved all the way north to Shelter Bay.   Fort Sherman has been mostly deserted since the United States turned the canal over to the Panamanian people.  Shelter Bay remains a prosperous marina which is protected from hurricanes.  After lunch at the marina, we went through the jungle to Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  This was a wonderful experience.  The Fort is under full restoration to maintain its UNESCO World Heritage designation.  I cannot wait to visit again after the restoration is completed.  Despite the construction going on, this is a beautiful tour.  The Fort sits at the mouth of the Chagres River high on a bluff where it was easily protected from the pirates.  Thank you, Marc, for showing us a great time.

Marc gives us a little detail on the new Agua Clara Lock
The Gatun Dam
A cruise ship passing through the Gatun Locks
How about lunch at Shelter Bay?

This Coate’ came to see where we were going
There was a major restoration in progress at San Lorenzo Castle

Fort San Lorenzo Castle sits at the mouth of the Chagres River
Marc checks out the heavy artillery
Fort Sherman is in ruins…no need to stop here
The Atlantic Bridge

Every week during their visit we went to the club at Coronado Luxury Club & Suites.  Jen and I are members, and we enjoy the entertainment on Saturday nights.  That first week we enjoyed a comedian in the Sports Bar followed by Pascal Turner at the pool bar.  We especially enjoy Pascal, and, fortunately, he played every Saturday night during their visit with us.  Pascal often invites me to sing with him and it has become something for which I look forward.  The third Saturday we took our special guests to the fine dining restaurant at the club, Secundo Piso.  We invited friends John and Barbie to join us.  This was a special treat, and it is one of the places which we highly recommend.  Reservations are required and they are only open on weekends.  In the past, non-members have been welcomed at the resort on Saturday night.

Mom and Rich take the opportunity to dance
We did too
John and Barbie got in a little Salsa

Also, that last week in Coronado Mom and Rich spent three nights at the resort hotel to give us all a break from each other.  Jen and I get free nights every year with our paid membership, and we wanted them to have a special treat.  They hung out by the resort pool and got waited on.  Rich wanted to order foo foo drinks with fruit and little umbrellas.  I wish we had pictures of that.  During one of those days at the resort, we got together for a special late lunch at the Beach Club.  The Beach Club is reserved for members and resort guests.  We had a nice lunch and missed the last shuttle back.  I wish they had let us know that it would be the last, but we were hardly done eating when it came.  The staff sent us back on the employee bus.  Someone suggested that we just stay and sleep on the beach.  That was not an option…LOL.

A bird’s eye view of the beach at the club
Mom and Rich at the Beach Club

Almost every Tuesday we ventured to the movie.  The local theater, Cine Moderno, plays movies in English every Tuesday, and it is a favorite way to spend Tuesday evening in the community.  We always meet up with many friends there and enjoy the show.  For Jubilado’s (retired people), the movie plays for $2.50 USD each.  They have great refreshments also at a reasonable price. I put the movie schedule in my newsletter every week, but recently they have added more shows in English on other days.  I cannot always put all the shows and times, so check with the theater for additional showtimes.  Rich said he had not been to the movies in years, and both he and mom thoroughly enjoyed this activity…even if the movie was not always something we would normally go out of our way to see.

We ventured to Santa Clara to another of our favorite places on the beach, Deliciosa Del Mar.  We invited friends, Lorin and Judy, along for what we hoped would be a lobster feast.  Judy gets the credit for the magnificent sunset photo in the featured position above. Unfortunately, we missed the beginning of Lobster season by a few weeks.  We all still had some great fresh seafood before venturing onto the beach.  Everyone had a great time people watching and swimming in the ocean.  This little restaurant has palapas on the beach where you can eat or have drinks.  They rent them to people who do not order from them, but they are free to patrons.  We all had a great time.

Yes, we got in a swim
Mom and Rich hanging out in the palapa
Lorin and Judy walking the beach
Mom and Rich wade in

That last Friday night in Coronado we caught up with Mike and Diane for a great dinner at Café Med. We always seem to get a great meal there and this visit was no exception.

The ambience at Café Med is stunning

To cap off our month of adventures with Mom and Rich, we went from Coronado to Panama City at the beginning of Carnival traffic.  Travel into the city can be a challenge during Carnival.  We soon encountered the lane inversion and we were sharing our side of the highway with traffic heading to the beaches.  This was not horrible, but it slowed down our journey.  We anticipated travel challenge, so we wanted to have plenty of time to get them near the airport for their journey home on March 1st.  This gave us a couple of days to adventure in the city.

The lane inversion

When we crossed the Bridge of the Americas, the decision was made to check out the Amador Causeway and go to the Biodiversity Museum.  This is something that all of our past visitors have enjoyed, and we knew that Mom and Rich would love the experience as well.  We were not wrong.  The Biodiversity Museum is something that no visitor to Panama should miss.  We went down the causeway for lunch and some souvenir shopping, followed by our visit to the museum.  After the museum, we checked into our hotel at the Radisson Panama Canal.

Check out the huge Fig Tree
Panama City skyline from Amador Causeway Love the new Sombreros!
See the Biodiversity Museum over Rich’s shoulder?

Even after almost four years living in Panama, I look for new adventures when we have company.  Sometimes the new adventures are a giant failure, but this one was a definite high and one of the best experiences for myself.  On Saturday evening we ventured to the JW Marriott (former Trump Tower) for a ringside seat on the 66th floor for sunset.  The pool bar is owned by the casino and only accessible through the casino.  The elevator will only stop at the parking garage or the 66th floor unless someone has a key to stop elsewhere.  When we exited the elevator, we were welcomed into an amazing outside venue with an infinity pool, and our reserved table was waiting for us next to the pool.  The views of the city and sunset were unbelievable.  We enjoyed a light dinner (pub food) and drinks while we watched the sunset.  This will be another of those experiences that we share with others.  If you get the chance, do not miss this one.

The following morning, we were whisked away by shuttle to a boat dock in the middle of the Gamboa Rain Forest where we caught our boat.  It is definitely a small world when every one else on the tour bus is from the Grand Rapids, Michigan area, really close to where mom and Rich live!  The Pacific Queen took us on a partial transit of the Panama Canal.  Rich was so intrigued by the canal that we could not deny him this experience.  When we departed the dock, we had a few drops of rain which quickly subsided.  Our boat went south on the Panama Canal as the guide told us interesting facts about what we were seeing.  We traveled past a Pana Max ship, the largest of container ships.  We would see this ship later passing through the big new lock at Miraflora while we were passing through the smaller locks.  We passed the prison where Noriega spent the last years of his life, and several big dredging cranes.  The Gaillard Cut, which was formally known as the Culebra Cut, is where most of the lives were lost in the construction of the canal.  It is the narrow mountain pass taking the canal through the Continental Divide.  This stretch of the canal requires constant maintenance due to the mud slides and silt accumulating in its bottom.  This is where the canal authority spends the majority of its maintenance budget.

The prison where Noriega was incarcerated
Titan, the biggest crane on the canal
This is a large Pana Max ship. We passed it after entering the canal from the dock in Gamboa
Our transit vessel, The Pacific Queen

We continued through the cut and past the Centennial Bridge before reaching the Pedro Miguel Lock. We moved into the lock which we shared on this journey with another tour boat, a small cargo vessel, and a larger ship.  We were lowered in the lock to the level of Mira Flores Lake.  Mira Flores Lake is a manmade lake connecting the Pedro Miguel lock with the Mira Flores Locks.  Once across the small lake, we entered the Mira Flores locks once again sharing with the other three vessels. Mira Flores has two locks taking us down to sea level.  After passing through all three locks, we moved on toward the Pacific and our destination port.  We passed under the Bridge of the Americas, then past our hotel and the Amador Causeway before rounding the point and making dock at the Port of Panama.  The total time of our excursion was right around 5 hours.  Previously, Jen and I did a full passage which took around 12 hours.  The partial passage was much better, as the full passage took several hours crossing Lake Gatun.

A small cargo vessel entering the lock at Pedro Miguel ahead of us
The Welcome Center at the Mira Flores Locks.
The Centennial Bridge. See the Gaillard Cut (part of it) as we approach.
This is the 1st lock at Mira Flores. You can see the last lock ahead of us.
While going through the locks we were next to this other tour boat.
Moving out from the locks toward the Pacific
Every vessel has a pilot from the canal authority during transit. This is our pilot departing the vessel.
Welcome to Port Panama

Our day was not over.  We went back to the hotel for a minute, and Marc Vargas picked us up for a little tour of Casco Viejo.  We wanted to have another sunset experience from a rooftop in Casco.  Marc selected Tantalo, where we had a bite to eat and watched the sunset from a different perspective.  Marc graciously showed us around a little, and we took in the amazing sites of Casco Viejo.  This is one of those places that really requires an entire day.  If you are fortunate enough to get to this neighborhood, check out the many plazas, the churches, The Panama Canal Museum (among others), the artisan vendors, architecture, restaurants, coffee shops, chocolatiers, souvenir shops, and do not miss the rooftop bars.

A short walk through Casco Viejo
Cool picture…Thanks, Marc
Bring on the food and drinks
the main Cathedral of Panama
Another cool picture. This is a panorama before the sun began setting.

On their last day in Panama, we mostly just rested from exhaustion.  We relocated to a hotel near the airport, got covid tests, and shopped in a mall nearby.  Jen and I are still recovering here, and I imagine that mom and Rich are doing the same in Florida.

Our visitors waiting to be tested with their capable translator
El Hombre de La Mancha at the Metro Mall
They had it in stock

For more information about adventuring in Panama, grab a copy of my book 2 Retire In Panama?.  It is available at Amazon, on Kindle (Kindle Unlimited Readers get it free), and at El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores in Panama.  I am sharing some links below for some of the adventures and sites that contributed to this great month of adventures with my folks.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Casa del Jamon

Coronado Bible Church

Coronado Luxury Club & Suites

2 Retire In Panama?

Tantalo

Panama Canal Tour

El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores

Gold Coast Brewery

Marc Vargas

Biodiversity Museum

Pascal Turner

El Valle de Anton

Panama Viejo

Cine Moderno Coronado

Casco Viejo

Café Med

We Are Often Asked How We Keep Busy During Our Retirement…

Many times during the year we are asked what we do to keep busy during our retirement here in Panama. The truth is that we do not know how we ever had time to hold down jobs. We find ourselves amazed nearly every evening by the miraculous sunsets and every day seems to have an agenda of its own. Jen has been working remotely a little on the side by the wonderful power of the internet, and I have been doing a little writing aside from the blog. Later in this post I will share an excerpt from my book which is about 90 percent complete, but has yet to be delivered to the editor. I hope you will all find it interesting and provide me with permission to contact you, once it is published, to let you know how to get your hands on a copy.

We continue to have occasional guests and this past week we entertained Jen’s brother and his lovely wife. Their stay was much too short, but we managed to take them on a couple of great adventures. We have recently taken a wonderful trip to spend some time with some of my family in Florida. We found Florida to be cold by our standards having spent the better part of the last two years here in Panama. We spent the entire ten day trip wearing long pants and both of us came home with colds.  I know we have mentioned it before, but Panama is a great place to explore from. In less than a month we will be traveling to Israel, Jordan, Greece, and Turkey where we will explore the holy lands and further our understanding of our Christian heritage. Shortly after our return, we have a vacation planned to connect with friends from the States in the Dominican Republic and in May we will be taking an item off our bucket list by visiting Machu Picchu. I hope to be able to share our adventures on Facebook and future blog posts.

Our adventure to Florida started with our flight into Miami where we rented a car and traveled up through alligator alley and the everglades to our final destination in Punta Gorda. My dad and sister live in the resort community there and have a life similar to ours in that many snowbirds spend half the year there and the rest of the year elsewhere. As great as the area is, I still could not imagine retirement anywhere that does not provide summer activities all year long. Our goal was to find never ending summer and we did that in Panama. I often find myself complaining about the drivers here in Panama, but frankly they are just as bad in Florida. The other huge factor for us is the cost of living. We would not have near the lifestyle in Florida that we have in Panama. We wanted to live where the month runs out before the money and Panama is working well for us. It was nice for us to visit because we needed to upgrade our cell phones and do a little shopping in addition to spending time with family and friends. There are things that we just cannot find readily available in Panama that we like to shop for while we are Stateside. We do shop from Panama on Amazon Prime, however we have to pay for the additional shipping from Miami to our home here. Panama does not have mail service and everything we have sent goes to a box in Coronado. Some people are bothered by not getting mail, however it has not been a problem for us at all. It was unbelievable how much junk was in our mailbox every day. Our daughter gets our important correspondence and forwards it on in an email. We pay our bills on-line like the majority of people living overseas. We also had the chance to meet some friends from our old church in Michigan who winter in Florida, and caught up with our good friends from here that are spending some time with his mother there. We returned from Florida on the day before the Super Bowl which was being played in Miami. It made our return interesting, with all the crazy football fans descending on the town.

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The whole family is gathered for a rare meal together.

It was only about five days after our return that Jen’s brother and his wife came to visit. We managed to take them to El Valle de Anton. Our first stop was the trailhead for India Dormida and the Piedra Pintada or “the painted rocks,” which are petroglyphs, going up to the India Dormida.  This was an adventure that Jen and I had yet to do, and we all found it amazing. We hired a guide and he lead us first to the petroglyphs and on to several amazing falls before reaching the top. The hike is a bit difficult but well worth the effort.  I recommend that only accomplished hikers take the trail all the way to the top and beyond. We stopped short of the top which was approximately 1 hour. Once at the top our guide explained that one would be able to see the rim of the volcano and the Sleeping Princess from a very different perspective. On the hike back down we came across a guy carrying a bunch of concrete blocks up the mountain. Our guide explained that his family had purchased property in the jungle on the back side of the mountain. The real estate there is much less expensive, but difficult to access. He was bringing the blocks to the building site of their new home. Subsequently we also passed a young girl who was carrying one block and an older woman who carried groceries.

The petroglyphs are pictured above. Our guide told us that the painted rocks were believed to be a map painted by natives for others that would be coming after them. After we left there we continued up the road a bit to el Macho. Jen and I took the easy hike to the waterfalls while Deb and Bill took in the experience by zip-line. We concluded the experience at El Valle by having a light lunch and visiting the market.

We also celebrated their anniversary at our favorite restaurant, relaxed on the beach, and at the pool. We concluded their stay with a couple of great adventures in Panama City. Our favorite guide Marc Vargas gave us a great walking tour of  Casco Viejo which ended at a great rooftop venue where we enjoyed dinner and drinks while we watched the sunset. We found it quite amazing how far the restoration of Casco Viejo has come over the past couple of years.

The Cathedral of San Jose is one place that visitors should not miss. The golden alter was saved from the pirates when the priest covered it in tar to hide it from them. The Cathedral also has a wonderful recreation of Jerusalem depicting the nativity. We also visited the Panama Canal at the Mira Flores Locks and the Bio Diversity Museum.  The Bio Diversity Museum was my inspiration for a chapter of my book. I am proud to share this chapter which is straight out of the rough draft and unedited.

      The Panama Museum of Biodiversity Puente de Vida (“Bridge of Life”) is a portal to the richest and most diverse ecosphere on earth. It was designed by internationally renowned architect, Frank Gehry. It is located at the end of the Amador Causeway in Panama City, facing the Pacific Ocean at the entrance of the Panama Canal. The museum inspires as it educates about biodiversity – a complex but essential vision of life that is both a leading-edge scientific theory and a tool to protect our most precious ecological resources.
      A visit to the museum is a must for visitors and residents in Panama. We have visited there three times now and each visit is a special experience. From the air the beautiful building is designed to look like a bird in flight. The first stop on the tour through the museum is a look at the animals that we share this land with. The animals are ranked on a wall as to their existence and some are now extinct. There are others that are only maintained in captivity. The golden toad is one of these creatures. It was thought to only exist in the dense unexplored jungle. Now there is belief that the toads are only still here in zoos and aquariums. The tour continues to a wonderful 360-degree film that challenges all your senses. It even plays on the floor. The film depicts the wonderful nature in Panama, including panoramic views of mountains, rivers, jungle, and oceans. As we continue, we learn how the land mass of Panama was created forming a connection between South and North America. Volcanos created what is called an isthmus between the two continents. The resulting land bridge allowed migration of many species of animals in both directions. It also caused a change in the biology of both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. By blocking the flow of water between the two bodies of water two distinct oceans with different chemistries were created. This natural phenomenon caused the waters of the Pacific to warm and the Atlantic waters to remain colder. As we move along through the museum, we enter an area full of life size cast animals. This exhibit is very cool. It shows the animals in the size and magnitude in which they migrated from one continent to the other. Many we recognize as they are still here while many are now extinct. Much of what I have learned about the immergence of the isthmus of Panama, I learned from the exhibits at the Bio-Diversity Museum. The Great Biotic Interchange or the movement of plants and animals between North to South America began many millions of years ago. Many of the plants and animals found in Panama today have origins in North America while others have origins in South America. Panama continues to bridge the two continents providing annual migration routes for millions of birds. Other animals spread north or south through Panama due to environmental changes caused by humans. Humans first appeared in Africa approximately 120,000 years ago. They migrated to Europe, Asia and Australia between 30,000 and 50,000 years ago. The last continent to have human population was the Americas, somewhere between 15,000 and 20,000 years ago. The first Americans are believed to have come from Asia, with groups arriving at different times from different parts of Asia. Evidence shows that they were primarily hunter-gatherers living in low population densities. These various groups made various uses of resources in the different regions of the Americas. Panama’s environment began to change soon after the arrival of humans. Forests were burned to improve hunting and overhunting may have caused the extinction of some of the largest species of animals. Climate change played a part in the extinction of the largest animals by 10,000 BC, but it is believed that intensive hunting hastened much of the extinction. It is believed that humans inhabited Panama before 11,500 BC, but the earliest reliable evidence of Paleoindians dates to 11,500 BC. They were hunter-gatherers, but little is known about earlier inhabitants. It is thought that those early inhabitants lived along the coastal areas now submerged following the ice caps melting during the last ice age. Before the ice caps started to melt the sea-level was much lower causing the isthmus to be twice as wide as it is today. When humans arrived in Panama, they likely found many species of large animals which included giant sloths, glyptodonts, horses, and mastodonts. Most of these were extinct thousands of years ago including horses. The horses were later reintroduced to the isthmus by the Spanish around 1500 AD. The Paleoindians were constantly moving in search of game and food. They lived in most areas of the isthmus, but their communities were small, and evidence of their population has been found in a few rare sites. As the ice age ended there were big changes on the isthmus. The melting of the ice caps caused changes to the shape of the land as the sea level rose. The climate became warmer and wetter which transformed vegetation. People were forced to find new ways to survive in the new climate. By 6000 BC Panama’s coastlines were close to where they now exist. The warm wet climate caused the forests to spread in the lowlands while the cool-climate plants retreated to the highlands. People arriving to the Americas found many plants that were new to them. Through experimentation they found that many of these new plants provided good sources of food, medicine, and other uses. In Panama, wild fruits such as palm nuts, nance, and mamey provided adequate food sources. By 5000 BC inhabitants were beginning to grow arrowroot tubers, squash, and other food plants. They also grew gourds which were used to make containers. Maize originated in southeastern Mexico and spread along with cassava, chilis, and other crops through Panama into South America by 4,000 BC. Many of these crops remain important today. Farming was important to the region. People learned to improve crop yields by selecting the most productive varieties for their area. This agriculture provided a main diet rich in starch. The people of Panama also depended on hunting and fishing to add fat and protein to their diets. People developed tools to clear forest for farming and pottery to store and prepare food. People in Panama made simple pottery by 3500 BC. Eventually pottery became a sophisticated art form used to express ideas about religion and culture. Monagrillo pottery was crudely fired and rarely decorated. Later this pottery was fired with more care using special clays. Pots were polished, covered with fine clay and decorated or painted.
     Ornaments made of gold, precious stones, bone, shell, and teeth from rare animals like sperm whales and jaguars provided ways for the rich and powerful to show off their status. After AD 700 artistic gold work found in Panama was made locally. The people of Panama learned gold crafting from South American artisans. Gold ornaments were an indication of status. As the population of the isthmus grew, families with rich land and other resources obtained status by trading prestigious items, crops and goods or by hosting feasts. Wealthy elites, headed by chiefs, gained dominance over territories that were called chiefdoms. The most productive land became occupied causing conflicts between neighboring communities which led to warfare. Leaders acquired stature by their success in battle. Barriles was the most important ceremonial center of the Gran Chiriqui chiefdoms. Statues and crafted stones found there were likely erected between AD 200 and AD 1000. The Gran Chiriqui had settled most of the western Pacific slope including the fertile highlands. Later villages were established in the Caribbean lowlands. An eruption of the Baru Volcano around AD 1000 may have caused them to abandon some of the highland valleys. The villages in the lowlands of both slopes thrived until the Spanish arrived. Sitio Conte and El Cano were two sites believed to have formed a single ceremonial and political center. Rich and powerful men were found buried here between AD 700 and AD 1000. These men were buried with exceptional numbers of crafted artifacts at both sites. A ceremonial site with natural columns built of basalt, carved stone pillars topped by human and animal carvings, and small stone animal idols was found at El Cano. Stunning artifacts made by the early Panamanians featured the nature that surrounded them as well as their beliefs about it. This art reflects a time when human imagination and the nature of the area enjoyed rich, rewarding independence. The isthmus between the continents natural barriers made it difficult for local travel. The high mountains and deep valleys extending the entire length of it created a distinct diversification of local cultures. By 1500 Panama was occupied by small chiefdoms. The first explorers and colonists from Europe provided us with a picture of what these societies were like. Where the populations were densest people lived in villages of up to a few hundred people. These villages consisted of small houses that had grass or palm-frond roofs, walls made of cane, and clay floors. Each village usually had a meeting house, an open space for gathering, and a mortuary where embalmed bodies of the dead were kept. People grew crops such as maize, cassava, sweet potatoes, and squash near the village. They hunted deer, peccaries, armadillos, iguanas, and large rodents nearby. Fishing was important along the coasts and estuaries. They fished with nets and traps as well as collecting shellfish and crabs. Food and goods were exchanged in market centers. Panamanian societies of the early 1500’s was medium in size and complexity compared to others in the Americas. Each village often had a different language from the next making communication difficult. Panama’s modern indigenous peoples have descended from groups who have lived on the isthmus for thousands of years. They have likely been here since the first humans arrived. Evidence by means of genetics and linguistics show no signs of recent migrations into Panama from afar. Despite modern upheaval and change, there is a fundamental continuity between ancient societies and those groups who still live in Panama today.
     When Columbus arrived in 1492 the two worlds collided. The people of the Americas had been isolated for nearly 15,000 years from the other continents. The technologies agriculture, and societies were very different from the rest of the world. Panama was like the rest of the Americas when the upheaval of the arrival of Europeans brought drastic changes. The native people were decimated by warfare and foreign diseases; they were displaced by European colonists and their African slaves. New domestic plants and animals were brought in, transforming the landscape. The Spanish occupation of the South American mainland began in 1510. Settlements in Columbia to the east appeared in just a few years, with the Spanish exploring much of the region and subjugating many of the indigenous people. By 1519 Panama City on the Pacific coast was founded by governor Pedrarias Davila. A system of roads was constructed shifting the focus of Spanish settlement from the Caribbean port of Nombre de Dios to the Pacific slope. The arrival of Europeans caused death and destruction of the native people. The indigenous cultures were shattered by warfare, enslavement, and disease-causing catastrophic loss of life. By 1550 the native people were nearly gone from large areas where most of the Spanish were settling, especially the Pacific coast. Today more than 70% of Panama’s population is of mixed ancestry. The Spanish colonists were mostly men who came without families. These men took native women as partners. The people born of these relationships were called mestizos and they soon became much of the population in many areas. Where slaves were common many people were born with a partial African heritage. Spanish colonists, subjugated Indians, and African slaves living together gave rise to a new people and culture. In the remote regions unconquered natives fiercely maintained their independence and escaped slaves found freedom. The Spanish imposed their language and the Catholic faith where they controlled the areas. New styles of architecture and urban organization sprang up. Towns were built on a plaza with a church at the center surrounded by public buildings and homes. A few of the native societies escaped the Spanish domination by retreating to remote jungles and mountains. One group of indigenous people, the Miskitos, originating from northern Central America, frequently raided Panama during the colonial era. The declining native population was causing need for a new source of labor. Large numbers of African slaves began to be imported to the Americas in 1518. These slaves were more resistant to disease than the native laborers. By the late 1500’s these people outnumbered the colonists and subjugated Indians in Panama City and Portobelo along with all the neighboring areas. The Spanish began bringing domestic animals like horses, cattle, donkeys, goats, pigs, chickens, turkeys, guinea fowl and domestic ducks along with domestic plants from around the world to Panama. With the integration of these into the local agriculture Panama’s landscape was transformed. Cattle ranching spread across the country. Today traditional meals in Panama contain crops that originated from around the world. Another important product of Panama during the colonial era was gold. The Spanish built gold mines in Veraguas and Darien. These mines were constantly attacked by hostile Indians forcing the Spanish to abandon mines in some of the remote areas. Shortly after Balboa first crossed the isthmus in 1513, permanent trade routes were established between the oceans. In the 500 years since, Panama has been a global crossroads for people, goods, and ideas. This has shaped history for Panama as well as the rest of the world. One member of Balboa’s expedition, Francisco Pizarro later led campaigns against the Indians of Panama. In 1524 he began making explorations down the coast of South America. These explorations eventually culminated in the conquer of the Inca Empire. The Inca Empire was one of the largest and richest in the world. South American gold and silver were transported to Spain by way of Panama. Around 60% of the gold and silver from the Americas came from South America through Panama. It was shipped from western South America to Panama City. It was then carried across the isthmus to Caribbean ports where it was put on ships for transport to Europe. These riches passing through Panama began attracting the attention of English, French, and Dutch pirates. These pirates were often assisted by Indians or escaped slaves. They raided Spanish shipping towns and mines from late in the 1500’s until early in the 1700’s. In 1699 Scotland tried to colonize Darien, which resulted in a disaster. They were attempting to establish a trade route to the far east. The effort was poorly planned and failed due to disease, lack of food, and attacks by the Spanish. Almost none of the colonists survived to return to Scotland. The failed endeavor nearly bankrupted Scotland, resulting in their union with England in 1707. The route across Panama was short but difficult and dangerous. The trip by mule and canoe took several days and many did not survive due to tropical disease. In 1849 the California gold rush brought a flood of new travelers prompting the construction of the first railroad to connect the Atlantic and Pacific.
     Since 1900 Panama has continued to see radical changes. The Panama Canal made the isthmus even more important to world commerce. Soaring population and rapid development threatened the natural wealth of Panama. The 20th century brought rapidly growing population to the rural areas of Panama. Small farmers were pushed to colonize new areas of forest. By 1950, aided by new roads, most of the western slope of the Pacific was deforested by small farmers, due to growing rural populations. The agricultural frontier continues to advance on the Caribbean slope and in the Darien jungle. Large-scale commercial agriculture began to dominate parts of Panama. Cattle ranching and plantation agriculture expanded for local consumption and export. Today nearly two thirds of Panama’s population live in or near Panama City due to a lack of rural jobs and opportunities. The construction of the Panama Canal was one of the largest alterations to the natural world ever taken on by humans. A large part of the construction was successful in part by working in partnership with nature. The tropical forests and the water they provide are critical for the function of the canal. The first attempt to construct the canal by the French failed due to disease and worker mortality. It was later completed by the Americans in 1914. New medical knowledge helped to control disease and reduced mortality among workers. The United States returned administration of the Panama Canal to the people of Panama in 1999. About 5% of the worlds trade passes through the canal every year.
     Escalating population and development continue to threaten Panama’s rich natural and cultural heritage. Progressive innovative strategies are constantly needed to preserve the rich legacy of “The Bridge of Life” for future generations. Natural resources must be preserved and sustained for the continued benefit of us all. Air and water quality are threatened by expanding development. Using these resources wisely and employing cleaner technology will ensure future health and well-being. Panama is increasingly becoming interlinked with the rest of the planet with the globalization of trade. This globalization will put new demands on Panama’s resources and global climate change will jeopardize its natural environments. The true wealth of Panama is its natural and cultural heritage. Its complex history has helped to create an extraordinary cultural variety. Celebrating this diversity will be instrumental in preserving it for future generations.
     I was able to take much of the history presented in this chapter from gallery exhibits at the museum. I encourage all visitors to spend a half day at the museum at a minimum. New, recently opened exhibits have beautiful aquariums that show the diverse differences between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean.

The book is one of the most difficult projects of my life. I am still at battle with myself as to the sanity of trying to publish with so many other books of its type in the market. It would be great to hear your thoughts. It is loosely based on our blog and chronicles our journey to retire in Panama and many of our subsequent adventures. In the very near future I will be looking for help with the name and cover art. I would be greatly honored to gather your email addresses and comments by clicking on the “leave a reply” area below. As always, it helps us if you will like and share our blog with others who may find it interesting.

Blessings,

Greg and Jen

Another amazing sunset!
Another amazing sunset!

Casco Viejo, Contadora, and The Amador Causeway

Yes, you are about to hear of our awesome adventure over this past weekend. Things at our house have been extremely busy over the past several weeks, so we have to apologize, with explanation, for the lack of recent posts. Shortly after our last post we had a wonderful visit from friends who live in Michigan. We shared some adventures with them that would be a repeat to our blog, but were great never the less. One adventure of note that we have yet to talk about is the Playa de Panama which is just a few short minutes from our condo. The beach is generally quiet and secluded. The best part is that there is a shack at the entrance where you can get a great meal of Lobster or Corvina with Patacones.

Playa de Panama Lobster and Corvina
Playa de Panama Lobster and Corvina

The price for Lobster is $10 and the Corvina is $8. The purveyor usually has ice cold beer for $1, but it is not a problem to bring your own drinks. Once our friends departed, we found ourselves busy dealing with the sale of our house in Michigan. As of now it is scheduled to close by the end of the week. With the sale of our house looming near we have resumed actively looking at homes here in Panama. Last week was the Thanksgiving Holiday in the States. It is just another day here in Panama, however we opted to create our own grand celebration. We shared our meal with new friends from five countries, including Canada, Germany, South Africa, Panama, and The United States. There were traditional and non-traditional Thanksgiving food with Turkey and everyone bringing a dish to pass. We also made sure that the staff here at our condo was fed. A great time was had by all.

This is where we catch up to the present. We left early on Friday morning with our good friends and neighbors to share a weekend adventure. Our adventure started with a stop on the Amador Causeway to explore the Biodiversity Museum.

Bio Diversity Museum, Panama City
Bio Diversity Museum, Panama City

The experience was, without question, one of the most interesting experiences. Readers may recall our previous post T- 21 Days To Departure . In that post we presented research where we found some great adventure destinations. We were able to cross a couple of these destinations off our list, and more, this past weekend. The Bio Diversity Museum was self guided. Each of us had a device that we could listen to, which guided us through the museum in our native language at our own pace. There were also real human guides all along the way who were all multi-lingual. They helped fill in the blank spots and answered any questions. The museum explained how Panama was formed by volcanoes, rising from the ocean which created a land bridge from South America to North America. The result was the convergence of two populations of plants and animals on one single land mass. The museum also helps teach how to live in harmony with the other plants and animals with which we share this space.

Following our visit to the museum we explored the Amador Causeway. The Causeway runs out to the Pacific along the Panama Canal. It is lined with marinas, bars, restaurants, and shops. We located a great fonda where we had lunch.

The Flamenco Marina is just down the way. This is our destination Saturday morning. Our ferry to Las Perlas  (The Pearl Islands) will depart from there. We have round trip tickets for the ferry ride to the island of Contadora where we will spend the day. Following our lunch we found our way to the Raddisson on the Panama canal. We got checked in and took Uber to Casco Viejo. We enjoyed Casco well into the late evening. This was our second trip to Casco. There is so much to do and see that we will entertain friends there for years without ever tiring of it. The Cathedral on the square is being renovated and it is nearly completed. When we were there the freshly refurbished bells were waiting on the sidewalk to be returned to the bell towers. We also toured another Cathedral where there was a scale model of Jerusalem. It was just incredible. Our night ended with dinner then a half block walk to the Presidential Palace. It is Independence month here in Panama and we enjoyed fireworks over the bay near the palace. Panamanian people love fireworks.

Saturday we were up early for our 7 a.m. ferry departure. The Pearl Islands are a string of islands about 1 1/2 hours away by boat. Survivor fans will remember a season of that show was filmed there. We visited Contadora. It was a beautiful beach destination, but not the same island where the popular television program had been filmed. We rented a golf cart on the beach and took off to explore. The island has several restaurants, beaches, a few bed and breakfasts and an airstrip. We enjoyed two different beaches, one of which we did not share with any other people. We all agreed that this was someplace where we could spend a few days. The surrounding islands made for spectacular views.

There is so much more to share, and we are feeling a bit guilty that we have allowed so much time to pass between posts. We hope that you all have enjoyed our pictures from this weekends adventure. We are preparing for special guests this next week from the States, and there are a couple of great new adventures planned for their visit. We are committed to sharing those in a little over a week. We are hopeful that we may, also be able to share more about our pending home search here in Panama. We wake every morning feeling thankful and blessed to be retired in such a beautiful place. Please like and share our blog to keep us out there. The new rules at FaceBook are continuing to drive us crazy. We will post a link, but they seem to block our ability to share as we used to.

Blessings,

Greg and Jen

Panama City Day 2

Our day started early at Servicio National de Immigration. We met our attorneys assistant, Mariana, who walked us through the process of “opening a ticket” for the process of obtaining our Pensionado Visa. We started in a line to get a number like that one at the Secretary of State or DMV. Once we had our number we had to wait our turn. There were a lot of people in this room. We didn’t take pictures inside, as the people here are very insistent that the respect in government offices is maintained. We dressed appropriately for conducting business with the government. Jen wore a dress with closed toe shoes and I wore dress slacks with a button shirt and dress shoes. This initial meeting is so that the government can review the documents that we carefully prepared on Thursday. Once satisfied with our documents they then open our ticket and the process  begins. Our Passports were stamped that this process is underway. This is what ultimately will allow us multiple entry into and out of Panama. This is important if we retire here so that we can travel in on a one way ticket. As a tourist, to come to Panama, you must have a return ticket. We then had to wait in another line to pay $5. The real work will be on Monday. We will lay out our Monday experience after it happens. Having been to Immigration and having had Mariana explain everything, we now know what to expect from this process. Monday will be the last day we have to spend in Panama City.

Panama Immigration Building

We will be going to our condo in Coronado Saturday and returning to Panama City on Sunday afternoon for our Monday meetings. We will, also be picking up our rental car. We are going to be brave and drive back on Sunday afternoon. As of now, we will leave the car at the hotel while we go to immigration. The short taxi ride will cost us less than parking at the Immigration Building. The drive back to Coronado is what scares us the most. Traffic out of the city is basically gridlock 24 hours per day. Once out of the city, it should not be a bad drive back to Coronado. This will be our biggest test.

Having completed out business for the day, we decided to explore in Panama City. Our research told us that the best place to discover in the city is Casco Viejo (Olde Town). It is the original site where Panama City was settled, and we found it charming but areas were depressed and run down. There are buildings everywhere being restored, and the restored portion of Casco Viejo reminded me of New Orleans. We wanted to take a tour, however the tours that interested us were limited to Thursday, Saturday, and Tuesday at 5 pm in the afternoon. We made our own tour and visited most of the things that interested us. Our first stop was a coffee shop at the American Trade Hotel.

By the way, taxi drivers will take you anywhere, but seldom know your destination. Be prepared to communicate a nearby landmark. We have been negotiating the price for our cab ride in advance and that has worked well even if the driver has a difficult time finding the destination. We have learned, for instance, that to get back to our hotel we have to tell the driver that it is near the Do It Center (hardware store) in El Dorado. There are very few street addresses to identify location. We got out of the taxi in front of the hotel, and after having coffee we walked back toward Cathedral Metropolitana and the Plaza de la Independencia. We were having a bit of trouble getting our bearings so we ducked into a small shop and bought a map. We were disappointed to find the Cathedral totally tarped for restoration. The Plaza was nice and surrounded by Museums for everything Panama. We may find some of those interesting on another visit when we have more time. We were in search of the famous organic chocolate shop, which we did not find.

We found a beautiful old church, which was not yet being restored, on the walk.

The walk was quite hot and we worked up an appetite and thirst so we went into a sidewalk bar that was very unique. We were seated at a table near the back in front of an open door/window. The breeze coming through was quite nice and we enjoyed a fresh seafood appetizer. We didn’t want to eat much, because our ultimate destination will be the seafood market. We noticed through that open window, a huge gate with a guard. We soon learned that the gate was the drive leading to the presidential palace. We asked if we could walk there and were told that this was as close as we could get without a guide and a prior reservation. Our table was actually inside the gate.

Our walk led us along the waterfront and down to the fish market. Based on what we had found in our research, this wasn’t completely what we expected. It was very interesting and there is no shortage of fresh seafood if you are hungry. We saw the seafood market, the harbor where the fishermen bring in their catch, and found the place where you can eat about any fresh catch. We enjoyed some fresh Ceveche and a cold beer before heading back to our hotel.

Gracias for following along. Please like and share if you find this all interesting. We are getting ready for our journey to Coronado. Please stay tuned for more.

Greg and Jen

The Countdown Continues T -21 days to Departure

As we prepare to depart for our 9 week adventure in Panama our posts have been few and far between. Thanks for continuing to follow along. It seems like a great time to catch up and recap our preparation. Our immigration attorney has all but one document and we will be getting the apostle on Jen’s pension document and submit it on Friday. She officially retired at the end of the year, and since we have been going full blast on preparation for departure. We have confirmed our reservations for accommodations and rental car. We have also confirmed transportation in Panama City to meet with the attorney and complete the immigration process. Our first several days will be spent in Panama City where we will be staying at Central Park Hotel. We are waiting until we are on the ground in Panama to begin officially making recommendations. Central Park was among one of many places we chose from as a landing pad in Panama City. We chose it based on price and it’s reviews on the internet. It got mixed reviews…we will see how it works out. We take possession of the condo in Coronado on February 3, but it is a bit too far to commute into the city for completion of the visa process. We will also pick up our rent car on that day, but have a bit of anxiety driving in the city.

During our down time in Panama City Jen and I are planning a few adventures. We were intrigued on our previous visit to Panama with the Biodiversity Museum, and plan a visit there.

Bio-Diversity Institute Museum
Bio-Diversity Institue Museum

The Panama Museum of Biodiversity Puente de Vida (“Bridge of Life”) is a portal to the richest and most diverse ecosphere on earth. It was designed by internationally renowned architect, Frank Gehry. It is located at the end of the Amador Causeway in Panama City, facing the Pacific Ocean at the entrance of the Panama Canal. The museum inspires as it educates about biodiversity – a complex but essential vision of life that is both a leading-edge scientific theory and a tool to protect our most precious ecological resources.

We are also planning to visit many of the fine restaurants in the city. The World Travel Guide says we won’t go hungry in Panama City. The Central American hub is a rising culinary star, with a varied food scene including some fabulous North-American, Italian and Middle-Eastern options as well as plenty of Latin specialties. The restaurants favoring Panamanian-style cuisine are dominated by wonderfully fresh seafood. A number of elegant, gastronomic ventures can also be found here.

We are also planning to visit Old City Panama, which is also known as Casco Viejo (Spanish for Old Quarter), Casco Antiguo or San Felipe. Casco Viejo is the historic district of the city. It was settled in 1673 and built following the nearly total destruction of the original Panama City. Panama Viejo was destroyed by a pirate attack. It was designated a World Heritage Site in 1997. We will likely take a walking tour of this vibrant and colorful neighborhood where restoration is fully under way. Restored modern restaurants and hotels lie side by side with incredible crumbling ruins of the old city. This neighborhood of Panama City offers great nightlife, ocean views and city bay views.

We are sure to find many other adventures while in Panama City. Stay dialed in to our blog for our first hand experiences.

Our Spanish lesson for today is Casco Viejo which is Spanish for old quarter. Also, Puente de Vida which is bridge of life. Yes, we are sneaking in the Spanish lessons every time we write.

Jen and I are humbled and honored by the way this blog is being received. Today we reached another milestone of 1500 visits to our site. That does not include all of you who are getting this by Facebook, Tumbler and the other social media outlets. Thank-you, again, for following. We remain excited about our upcoming visit to Panama.