Last week, Jen and I had the amazing opportunity to spend time in Havana, Cuba. I captured the photo above from the 1951 Chevy convertible we took to dinner on Tuesday night. No words can describe Cuba. I am committed to carefully chronicling our experience to share what we found there. This post may be political. The politics of socialist and communist governments benefit only the elite leaders. It was heartbreaking to witness the extreme poverty of the people. The government controls everything from how often people get gasoline to the power grid to property ownership.
We arrived on Monday afternoon at Jose Marti International Airport in Havana, Cuba. We joined a small group of excited adventurers from Friendly Planet to explore Cuba on their Havana Express tour. We found the airport clean and efficient. Terminal 3 seemed like the only terminal. It is the international terminal welcoming flights from the United States. Havana is Cuba’s capital city, and Old Havana is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our tour guide, Lazaro, met us at the airport with a Friendly Planet sign outside the arrival terminal.
We ultimately learned that Lazaro is a professor of Cuban history at the university. He was an expert on Cuba, providing us with great insight. Our tour itinerary was only a guideline, and we saw things we never expected. Each time one of the visitors expressed an interest in something, he tried to fit it into the agenda. The government carefully monitors tours and visitors; at times, we were told we couldn’t go there or take pictures of that.
We boarded a vehicle driven by our capable driver, Ricardo, the entire visit. He navigated the narrow streets and kept each of us comfortable. We always felt comfortable with the surroundings, leaving our belongings on the bus while we toured. The bus was airconditioned and had adequate space for the twenty of us. It was nearly 35-40 minutes’ drive to The Casa, our accommodation for the entire visit.
On the drive, Lazaro began orienting us to the surroundings of our home for the next few days. It had a school across the street. We were warned not to engage the children. We knew in advance we would not be able to give them anything. It was heartbreaking to notice the extreme poverty in the neighborhood. Despite everything, it was very safe. Our bags were unloaded upon arrival, and we went inside for room assignments. We met our house hosts. Jose and Ray each worked long opposing shifts, leaving one always available to answer questions, request transportation, or attend to any needs of their guests. Both spoke perfect English. We also had a housekeeper and cook. Breakfast was served each morning.
Each afternoon, when we returned to our room, the housekeeper had left us a nice message.
After we were settled into our room, we walked with some of our fellow adventurers to the end of the block, where the street ended at the ocean. There was a wall with the waves crashing. Each person we encountered on our walk was welcoming and kind. One storefront had a long line of people we later learned were waiting for their monthly ration of rice and beans.
In Cuba, everything is owned by the government except a few privately owned businesses or enterprises. We learned that a private business turns over half its net earnings to the government. I’ll make sure to talk more about that later. Most of our tours were centered in privately owned businesses. Our dinner on Monday night was at a privately owned restaurant called a paladar.
We walked about six blocks in the dark, active neighborhood with Lazaro to Cafe Miglis. The converted home was beautiful, and the food was delicious. Our host, Miglis, lived upstairs and welcomed us into his restaurant and was happy to give us a tour of his living quarters upstairs after our meal. Each person has stories to share, and he shared his immigration to Cuba from Sweden in the 50s. He was an award-winning filmmaker invited to the country to make some films and chose to stay. He married a Cuban woman and settled into his current home. He and his staff treated us like royalty.
On Tuesday, we had breakfast before Lazaro took us to Revolution Square and then on a leisurely walk through the labyrinthian streets of Old Havana. We immersed ourselves in the vibrant colors of Cuba while walking along the narrow streets and exploring the four beautiful plazas of the Old City—Plaza de Armas, Plaza San Francisco, Plaza Vieja, and Plaza de la Catedral—each a historic and architectural gem.
On the bus ride, Lazaro pointed out the new American Embassy established during the Obama administration. It is in what was called New Havana. When we reached Old Havana, we then understood some dynamics. Almost all of Old Havana is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The former American Embassy lies in the center of this area. Then President Obama wanted to reoccupy the old embassy building. His request was denied because the required renovations would cause Cuba to lose the UNESCO designation for the area, as a majority of the area would have to be blocked off for the security for the embassy. This stunning area is adjacent to the port and contained within a wall built to protect it from pirate attacks in the 1500s.
After walking the charming squares and getting filled with history and interesting facts about the statues and architecture, Lazaro briefed us on our lunch choices. He told us which to avoid and which were considered the best Cuban food. We separated from the group and chose a restaurant on the square. Many of us chose the same place, and our biggest problem was calculating the exchange rate between Cuban pesos and dollars. One server explained the exchange as 300 pesos per dollar, but the bill was calculated at 260 pesos per dollar. It was a small difference. We paid a premium to pay in dollars. It wasn’t very clear. The people in Cuba are pleased to accept dollars or euros but will not take a credit card from the United States. We found many places offered the price in several denominations. Jen and I took euros and dollars and paid with both. They must have nearly new bills without creases, marks, or tears.
After lunch, we met with the group at the designated time and place. Lazaro walked us several blocks to an establishment to enjoy Cuba’s music and dance world with a private dance class. Our talented and personable teachers demonstrated Cuba’s most traditional dances. We saw how important music and dancing are to life in Cuba. Afterward, they taught us some basic Salsa steps.
There was a moment during our walk through the beautiful cobblestone streets of Old Havana when Lazaro paused outside a nondescript home. He began talking about what was behind the walls of the home. It was the House of Charity and Maternity. This is a refuge for children up to 6 years old who cannot be cared for by their mothers. It was established in the early 1700s by Bishop Fray Geronimo Valdes. Over the years, he rescued children, giving them all his surname, Valdes. This accounts for the most common surname in Cuban culture. This place was particularly important to Lazaro as he had an ancestor who the charity rescued. Hence his name Lazaro Valdes.
The tour moved along at warp speed. There were times when I couldn’t pick my jaw up off the floor long enough to take pictures. Despite that, I took nearly a thousand pictures in Cuba. Our guide took us to places we never expected, and there were times when photos were not allowed. The pictures below were from an impromptu stop at the Museum of Revolution, an open-air display of vehicles and equipment from the Revolution. The boat Castro came on from Mexico was behind the glass and too far away for pictures. There were also some emergency vehicles, a military plane, and an armored truck full of bullet holes on display. There was a military guard in uniform. Lazaro said no pictures of the guards (military) here. If the guard sees you taking pictures, he will seize your device. Too late, I snapped a few.
Directly across the street was a modern art museum. We didn’t go in.
I asked Lazaro about touring the cigar factory. He explained the government only allowed tours with special arrangements. He did get the driver to take us to the government cigar and liquor store. We were told that nothing from that store could be brought back into the United States. Almost the entire group went into the store and bought rum and cigars to consume during the visit. Our group was lively, and we partied together every night for the remainder of our time. The Cuban rum is manufactured in the plant where Bacardi started. Bacardi was sent packing after the revolution and embargo, and the government now makes rum in the plant under its own label. The Cuban rum is much better than Bacardi and is best sipped straight. We were warned about drinking the water and using ice.
A short drive from the cigar store in Marianao, outside the city center, we experienced the future of Cuban acrobatics with a meet-and-greet and show from the incredibly talented Angeles del Futuro. This community project trains children in the art of circus acrobatics. The director, coaches, volunteers, and parents all work together to provide the training, costumes, and equipment free of charge to the children and their families. It is truly a project that supports Cubans, their dreams, and the arts. We watched an example of the circus show and saw for ourselves the talent of these kids. After the show, we got to know these young acrobats themselves. We learned during the demonstration that several of the kids were award winners. Some were fostered by the director, who rescued them from abusive or neglectful homes. Their talent was incredible. They were all in their teens or younger. The facility is an old theater. The director asked the government for it, and they allowed him to take possession of it to rescue at-risk children.
The day was winding down. Our constant tour schedule was exhausting. We were on our own for dinner, and nearly nothing was out of bounds. We were given a list of approved restaurants, but using our best judgment, we could go nearly anywhere we wished. Everyone in the group asked our host at the Casa to arrange for rides in vintage convertibles. Our cost of an hour-long tour of Havana in the ’51 Chevy was $40. USD. Jen and I shared the cost with two other adventurers. Our driver picked us up in front and drove around before stopping near Revolution Square. We found several similar tours there and took pictures in and out of the old cars.
I chatted with the driver, who freely shared about life in Cuba. I purposely do not share his name while repeating some of his stories. You’ll be able to understand why. He explained that he was a music teacher before becoming a tour guide. His salary for teaching was approximately $100 USD per month. This did not support his family. He privately owned the car, which he had saved to purchase. He stated that he often waited more than twelve hours in line for gasoline. His gas consumption and mileage are carefully monitored to be sure he is turning over his 50% to the government. He pointed out the garbage piled in the street, stating the government doesn’t have gas for the trucks to pick it up. He pointed out the government-owned pharmacies and stores, telling us they were empty. They only provide these things to the wealthy elite, keeping the average people poor, hungry, and without medicine. When asked about clothes and toiletries, he said those things were only available on the black market. Several of our group had brought toiletries and toothbrushes for the people. Lazaro was tasked with passing these items out as we toured. We were sad about the fate of the Cuban people.
I asked our driver to recommend a great restaurant and if he would end our tour there. I told him we would take a taxi back to The Casa. He suggested that for $10 additional, he would take us to dinner, wait for us, and return us to The Casa himself. The restaurant where he took us, in Hostal Canonazo, was amazing. The full lobster tail was their specialty for $27 USD. There was live entertainment, and the place was busy. I invited him to join us for dinner, but he wouldn’t hear of it. Other drivers were waiting outside. I’m sure he wanted to keep his magnificent car within sight. After our dinner, he drove us home. I gave him the agreed-upon fare and a generous tip. There was a tear in his eye as he hugged us and left. If I ever return to Havana, I will look up this awesome person for a tour.
The other adventurers trickled back to the Casa. We stayed up long into the night drinking rum and smoking Cuban cigars with them. Our host, Jose, joined the fun, and we got more acquainted with him and the people we were touring with. There were no pictures of the festivities. What happens in Havana stays in Havana.
Wednesday, we woke to an unplanned power outage. The government claims it doesn’t have fuel to power the electrical plants. I viewed it as control from the top down. Without power, the people do amazingly well. Lazaro said that no part of the tour would be affected. Jen and I showered by flashlight, ate breakfast, and boarded the bus on time with everyone else. Gas cooking appliances and rechargeable lighting allowed us to have a normal breakfast with everything but toast. We learned that the power outage was nationwide, and no firm restoration estimate existed.
The day began with a stop at a display of the weapons staged in Cuba by the USSR to protect the island from threats from United States President John F. Kennedy. I’d like you to please read on to see the weapons, followed by the chronology of those tense days leading up to October 1962.
The Cohete Sopka (pictured above) is a winged rocket for coastal defense against water attacks. It was meant to destroy naval groups with high-impact precision. It was built from a modified Mig-15 plane with a radio correction system for flight direction. The USSR positioned 34 of these in Mariel, Pinar del Rio province.
The Cohete P-15 (pictured above) is a jet weapons complex of the P-15 system intended to attack warships and enemy transports. The creation of these weapons affirms the importance of combat boats and missile carriers as an effective means of attack in the naval system to destroy ships, the fight against amphibious vehicles, and the protection of the coasts.
The Cohete Luna (pictured above) is a tactical ballistic rocket for ground troops. It was designed to prevent landings by air or sea. The weapon could be self-propelled from a PT-76 tank. Thirty-six of these were staged at the towns of Artemisia, Managua, and Remedios. Twenty-four had conventional loads, and 12 had nuclear warheads.
The Soviets also provided the cannons and ground artillery pictured above in case of a ground attack.
The Cohete SA-75 (pictured above) is an anti-aircraft rocket. These were positioned all over the island, configuring an anti-aircraft defense brigade.
The Cohete R-12 (pictured above) is a medium-range ballistic rocket. During the early years of the Revolution, the Soviet government positioned three regiments with 36 operational rockets, all with nuclear heads, at the ports of Bahia Honda, Mariel, and Casilda in the Pinar del Rio province.
In 1962, after the defeat at Playa Giron, the National Security Council of the United States drafted a secret program called “Operation Mongoose,” which President John F. Kennedy approved.
The expulsion of Cuba from the OAS, the increase in the economic blockade, the terrorist actions against the island, and the anti-Cuban propaganda campaigns to justify direct military aggression against Cuba were part of this program.
The mobilization of thousands of US reservists, as well as the holding of military exercises in regions near Cuba, and the history of interventionist policy in Latin America predicted a direct military attack by the United States on the island. In October of 1962, the October Crisis began, known internationally as the Crisis of the Missiles or Caribbean Crisis. This fact is considered the most dramatic and dangerous incident during the Cold War in the historical confrontation between the United States and Cuba. Humanity was on the verge of a nuclear war, and Cuba was the scene of that conflict.
On the 9th of May 1962, a Soviet delegation visited Cuba, chaired by Sharaf Rashidov, deputy member of the CPSU Central Committee, Marshal Serguei Biriuzov, head of the strategic missile forces, and senior Soviet officers. The delegation entrusted by the president of the Council of Ministers of the Soviet Union, Nikita S. Khrushchev, proposed to the Cuban government the installation of strategic defense weapons in Cuba for the joint defense of the island against the danger of aggression.
By June, Operation Anadir involved the mobilization of Soviet troops and preparations to ship war materials. The contingents of Soviet soldiers numbered around 43,000 troops. They included the Strategic Rocket Troops, Air Force, Anti-Aircraft Defense Troops, Land Troops, Navy, and other assurances. Such an operation had never been carried out in the history of the Soviet Union. In addition, plans were carried out to mask and conceal the activities to be carried out and disinformation. According to the agreement, the military units of each country were under the command of their respective governments, coordinating the use of their corresponding forces to repel the aggression.
On July 3rd, the FAR Minister, Commander Raul Castro Ruz, traveled to Moscow and held talks with Khrushchev to discuss details of the Military Agreement that would be signed and published in November 1962. The Cuban Directorate, in correspondence with the sentiment of solidarity with the USSR and the socialist camp, accepted the agreement. This would improve the correlation of the forces between the two major powers and contribute to Cuba’s defense against the danger of aggression, per the principles of International Law.
The transfer of weapons to Cuba began on the 12th of July. Eighty-five boats were used, making 185 voyages to deliver the weapons to Cuban territory. The entire process was done in secret.
During August through October 1962 the arrival and deployment of the Soviet weapons was carried out. They installed medium and intermediate-range nuclear rockets and IL-28 bombers. Thirty-six combat rockets and 9 Luna rockets were brought into Cuba, all with nuclear warheads. There were 45 total nuclear warheads installed in the country.
On October 14th, the United States detected and photographed the Soviet rocket emplacements from U-2 planes near San Cristobal, Pinar del Rio. This constituted a great danger as it gave the United States an advantage, which could carry out a surprise attack on the installations. Kennedy ordered increased reconnaissance flights over the island.
Eight days later, Kennedy, using evidence of the presence of nuclear weapons as a pretext, began the naval blockade against Cuba. To make it effective, it included 238 ships, eight aircraft carriers, two cruisers, 118 destroyers, 13 submarines, 65 amphibious ships, and 32 auxiliary ships. The troops at Guantanamo Naval Base were increased from 8,000 to 16,000 men. At 5:40 in the afternoon, Commander in Chief Fidel Castro gave the order of Combat Alarm in a television appearance. Cuba deployed 270,000 combatants in the regular military and 150,000 in popular defense. There were 54 infantry divisions, six reactive artillery groups, a tank brigade, three independent 120mm mortar groups, 20 Naval units, 118 anti-aircraft artillery batteries, and 47 aircraft.
On October 23rd, faced with interfering statements from Kennedy, Khrushchev sent a letter to Fidel Castro in which he condemned the “picaresque” actions of the US government, considering them “aggressive” and a provocative act against the Soviet Union. He expressed his firm conviction of Cuba’s right to defend itself according to the norms of international law and the Soviet Union’s unconditional support for the Cuban Revolution and its willingness to defend it.
Later on the 23rd, Castro appeared on Cuban television, responding to Kennedy’s aggressive speech and informing the people of the serious situation. He expressed that Cuba would resist the imperialist blockade, would not disarm, and would calmly face the nuclear threat.
On October 25th, the Secretary General of the United Nations addressed the governments of the Soviet Union and the United States to avoid a confrontation between the two powers. The Soviet government responded positively by moving its ships away from the area, while the United States continued its threatening and arrogant tone. Kennedy ordered an increase in low-flying flights over Cuban Soil to 12 times daily.
On October 26th, Castro sent a letter to Khrushchev, in which he warned of the imminence of a United States invasion of Cuba and the Cuban decision to confront it. That day, the Soviet premier sent a message to his American counterpart, proposing a peaceful solution to the conflict based on the withdrawal of the projectiles in exchange for not invading Cuba.
On October 27th, Castro expressed to the UN Secretary-General, U Thant, his willingness to dialogue to solve the crisis as long as the United States stopped its threats, aggressive actions, and naval blockade of Cuba. That same day, US warplanes violated Cuban airspace, and anti-aircraft batteries opened fire on them in compliance with Cuba’s legitimate right to its defense. The U-2 spy plane was shot down by a Soviet rocket group stationed in the municipality of Banes, former Oriente province. The pilot, Major Rudolf Anders, was killed.
On October 30th and 31st, talks took place between a UN delegation and Cuban authorities at the Presidential Palace. The decision was made that Cuba had the right to defend its sovereignty. After the talks, the withdrawal of strategic defensive weapons began without the Cuban Revolutionary government creating any obstacles to the Soviet withdrawal.
I found the visit to this place very interesting. I took most of the content for this portion of the post from a chronology on display at the exhibit. It should be noted here that these weapons are all disarmed. Our guide stated that the remains of the pilot were never requested to be returned by the US government. To do so, they would have to admit to violating Cuba’s airspace. It is unbelievable to finally understand how close we were to nuclear war in 1962.
We continued to Guanabacoa to tour Vista Hermosa, a 100% organic, eco-friendly, sustainable urban farm. We learned about their specialization in growing seasonal fruits and vegetables and producing milk and cheese with free-range livestock. We enjoyed a farm-to-table lunch with homemade artisanal meats, cheeses, and local fruits and vegetables. The traditional Cuban desserts were amazing!
Later, we ventured out to Finca Vigía, Hemingway’s old home, which is now a museum that independent organizations support. Hemmingway bought the home and 16 acres in 1945 for $17,000 USD. It still contains the largest private collection of books and magazines in Cuba. This is where he wrote Old Man and the Sea and For Whom the Bell Tolls. There is also a priceless Picasso etching hanging in his study. This stop was a highlight for me as an author.
During the Obama administration, Michelle Obama toured here, and modifications were made to the entrance for Secret Service access. We were not allowed inside, but the windows and doors were opened wide. As we walked the perimeter of the house, and interacted with local caretakers to learn more about the life of Hemingway. We peered through the windows to see how it was kept when he lived there. The walls are lined with bookshelves and paintings, some depicting Hemingway on his African safaris. The heads of many of the animals he encountered are also mounted in several rooms. In the bathroom, we could see the writing on the wall above his scale, where he obsessively recorded his weight. Continuing around the home, we saw the adjacent tower where he did much of his writing and saw his typewriter. He built this tower after purchasing the house. A short walk down the hill was where we found the pool, pet cemetery, and his boat.
Another heartbreak was the deferred maintenance of Hemmingway’s home. Lazaro explained that the benefactors supporting the museum could not provide the funds necessary to maintain this treasure in Cuba in the way it deserved.
We visited a market on the street during our ride back to The Casa for a short rest before our farewell dinner. Lazaro had planned a stop at the big artisan market, but we found it closed due to the power outage. Despite the setback, many of us found trinkets to return home with. We learned that the power was being slowly restored across the country in phases. With no power, schools and many businesses were closed. It was a relief that there was power at the Casa when we arrived.
Our farewell dinner involved a drink-making and cooking demonstration. We learned the secrets of the Cuban kitchen while participating in a traditional Cuban cooking class experience! We got tasteful insights into Cuban culture as we went hands-on to prepare a meal with locals. It all started with the bartender directing us to make our own Mojito. The Mojito is the national drink of Cuba made famous by Hemmingway. We learned from experienced chefs as they took us through making some of Cuba’s most delicious traditional food, such as fried taro root (frituras de malanga) served with ginger, honey, or mustard. Next, we saw the steps of making stuffed plantains (tostones) with chard and pepper.
Following the demonstrations, we enjoyed a classic Cuban main dish of shredded meat (ropa vieja), salad, rice, beans, and vegetables. The meal concluded with a delicious local dessert.
Dayron Robles and his wife owned the delightful restaurant where we celebrated our farewell dinner. He is a Cuban track and field athlete specializing in the 110-meter hurdles. He won his first major medal (a silver) in the 60-meter hurdles at the 2006 World Indoor Championships. He finished the 2006 season, improved his outdoor best to 13 seconds, and became the Central American and Caribbean Games champion. Pan American gold came the following year, which also set a meet record of 12.92 seconds at the 2007 IAAF World Athletics Final – making him the joint fourth fastest ever.
He reached the pinnacle of his event in 2008 by setting a world record of 12.87 seconds in June at the Golden Spike Ostrava meet, and winning an Olympic gold medal at the 2008 Beijing Olympics in 12.93 seconds. Injury ruled him out for much of 2009, but he returned strongly with a championship record win at the 2010 IAAF World Indoor Championships.
When we arrived at the restaurant, they were still without power. The demonstration and meal went forward with gas cooking and battery-operated lighting. About halfway through our meal, the power came back on to a cheer of delight from the adventurers and staff. I deduced that the worst part of extended power outages was the lack of refrigeration. Some of our fellow travelers began becoming sick. Jen and I were spared the food poisoning, but both experienced intestinal difficulties by the time we reached home. Food handling without electricity is poor at best. Even without electricity, our tour never stopped.
We enjoyed a delightful breakfast on Thursday before being shuttled to the airport for the flight home. The boarding gate in terminal 3 was clean and comfortable. A few of our fellow adventurers even found treasured souvenirs in the airport shops.
I couldn’t conclude this post without sharing other thoughts, observations, gratitude, and random photos. One notable observation was that we never saw a uniformed cop or police vehicle. When asked about it, we were told they were everywhere in plain sight. People committing crimes or making inflammatory statements against the government are quickly arrested. I want to thank Michelle Price and Julie Delio for the photos. I also shamelessly used Google and Wikipedia for help finetuning the content. Third, I want to thank our hosts, Raysel Echevarria and Jose Vega, without whom the adventure would never have been the same. Our guide, Lazaro Valdes, was awesome. I hope the great information he shared with us shines through this post and I have correctly chronicled everything. Some of the photos may have needed to be better identified. I was overwhelmed. The photos below are just a few that didn’t find a place in the post above.
You cannot imagine the hours of work that go into publishing a work of this magnitude. I appreciate all of you for appreciating it. I love having the journal of our trip. When asked if we would visit again, I said yes without hesitation. I already have a good friend who wants to make the trip. If visiting Cuba is on your bucket list, do it. It’s worth the extra trouble and special visa.
The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events.
I was so anxious to share the Cuba trip that I blogged ahead of other adventures to make sure the details were fresh in my mind. I am committed to sharing a Retired in Panama Review of 2024 in the next few weeks with special details of our adventure in Greece, my writing retreat with Jonas Saul, cruise adventures, and other year-end news.
Blessings from paradise,
Greg and Jen
#welovepanama
