Our Year in Review 2024

Without a doubt, 2024 was our biggest adventure year of retirement. We visited over seventeen different countries and saw some amazing sights. We celebrated a monumental birthday with my mom in Florida. I attended a writer’s conference in Greece with bestselling authors Jonas Saul and CC Humphries. We cruised on three ships to visit the Greek Isles, almost the entire perimeter of South America, including the Strait of Magellan (Cape Horn), and revisited the Caribbean. If I don’t yet have your attention, read on. I will share some amazing adventures and slip in a few incredible pictures.

In February, my sister Melinda, her husband Hunter, Jen, and I, along with our three daughters, their spouses, and grandchildren, gathered in Fort Myers, Florida, for a surprise party to celebrate our mom’s birthday. I wanted to share a few pictures from the party. It’s not often that a surprise of this magnitude can be executed with such precision. Great job, Melinda.

In March, Jen and I flew to Santiago, Chile, for a great South American adventure. Our detailed blog post about the trip is in the blog archives. We explored Santiago and some of the Chilian interior before boarding the Norwegian Star to sail the coast of South America for 24 days. Our journey ended in Rio de Janeiro. When blogging our year in review, I never intended to repost what I’ve already posted. If you missed the South America Adventure, I hope you will click the link here or on the sidebar.

The Norwegian Star

In May, we celebrated Jen’s birthday and entry into the American Social Security system. Our good, life-long friends from Michigan came to Panama to help celebrate. The week was full of local adventure and celebration.

We enjoyed a special six-course dinner hosted by Chef Aristoteles at Nazca 21. One of our favorite entertainers, Pascal Turner, entertained us while course after course was delivered to the table.

One of the places that our visitors always ask to visit is Valle de Anton. It’s always a place where repeat visitors want to return. We explored the Sunday Market and The Museo del Valle de Anton before having brunch at the Golden Frog. The restaurant is off the beaten path, but the food is good, and our server spoke English. Our guests enjoyed the delightful patio atmosphere.

We certainly took our guests to the beach and pool while they were here. They asked for relaxation over adventure, which was fine with us. 

Our visit wrapped up with a day of adventure in Panama City. We journeyed to Casco Viejo, where we toured St. Joseph Church (The Golden Altar Church), the Panama Canal Museum, the Mola Museum, and the I Love Panama Chocolate Company. We wrapped up the last day with a visit to the Panaviera at the top of the former Trump Tower (J.W. Marriott). We had a delightful meal there while the sun set on our visitors’ final day of adventure.

The five of us enjoying the sunset

A few days after our Michigan friends left, we welcomed our oldest granddaughter to Panama. Jen and I have decided to have each of the grandchildren to Panama just before their senior year of high school. The time we spent with Victoria was special for all of us. We adventured and explored every minute of the ten-day visit. If you missed the blog post about Victoria’s visit in June, I hope you will click the link here, Victoria’s Panama Adventure, or on the sidebar to check it out. We are proud of Victoria’s accomplishments. She has chosen to continue her education at the University of Alabama, Birmingham. She was accepted and offered substantial scholarships. Congratulations kiddo.

Exploring the Amador Causeway

In early September, we went whale watching with eight friends in a panga on the Gulf of Chiriqui. We all agreed that it was the best whale-watching trip we had taken. Our guide, Captain Jay, had the whales figured out perfectly. There were times when we had whales in all directions. Our hosts at El Regalo Resort booked our tour and hosted us in delightful rooms. The resort has five suites, and we occupied the entire place. Jenni and Carroll have made their place the best of the best in Boca Chica. They have a chef who never disappoints. Our breakfasts and dinners were perfectly prepared, and the bartender kept the drinks flowing while we swam in the beautiful pool. I am sharing a gallery of great pictures from our adventure below.  Adventuring in Panama never gets old, especially with good friends.

By the middle of September, we returned to the skies for the pinnacle of our 2024 travel.  We flew from Panama to Miami for an overnight layover. Then, we traveled to London, where we met some friends, Joanne and Kirk. They took us for the best fish and chips and gave us an all-star tour of London before returning us to the airport for our flight to Athens.

We left London on a late flight to Athens, Greece. We arrived in Greece, transferred to the port, and caught a ferry to the island of Amorgos. On the third day since leaving Panama, we arrived at the Lakki Village Resort by midafternoon. It was a long day of travel and time zone jumping. I don’t know if it was adrenaline or excitement, but jet lag never caught up with us. We got plenty of sleep on the transportation and layovers.

Amorgos was the site of my writing retreat with Chris (CC) Humphries and Jonas Saul. It was amazing. After we arrived and unpacked, there was time to explore the resort. Our entire writer’s group gathered for a beautiful welcome dinner. After dinner, there was time to get better acquainted poolside with the facilitators and attendees anxious to discuss writing.

At the first morning session, we introduced ourselves and discussed what we were writing and what we were looking for from the retreat. The guest authors discussed the industry and offered clarity on direction. I had face time with all of the great authors at the retreat. Jen and I had lunch with Chris Humphreys and his significant other, Kat.

Jen and I with Chris and Kat

The second-day program was The Mountain: Beginning the Novel and Finishing It! Award-winning historical, crime, and fantasy novelist Chris (CC) Humphreys revealed some of his secrets of successful writing. Chris broke the writing journey into stages and guided us through each stage using a blend of anecdotal examples. Later in the afternoon, we gathered for a writing exercise.

On the third day, we discussed the discipline of creating the novel, how much emotion should be on the page, and how to place the tension in the right spots to keep readers turning the pages. We discussed setting up the book to be psychologically pleasing to the reader, leaving them with the emotional experience readers read for. Reading is an emotional journey, so make them feel it, and they’ll love you for it and tell all their friends about you (your book). After our session, we walked together to the village for lunch at an amazing local place. We gathered for drinks and casual discussion in the late afternoon before our evening meal.

On the fourth day, we learned to write a good fight scene that entertains while advancing the plot and revealing the character. How characters fight can reveal as much about them as how they make love. A good author must chance to delve into the dark side to broaden and deepen their characters and plot. Fight and sex scenes are a huge opportunity for any writer to confirm a suspicion or to startle with a revelation. A “character in peril” keeps the pages turning.

Later in the afternoon, we toured the 11th-century monastery of Agia Anna and the white village of Chora.

On our last day of workshops, we discussed promotion outside social media. Chris Humphreys and Jonas Saul demonstrated how to get our work in front of readers through proven results. This concluded the educational portion of our week. I met with Jonas Saul and enjoyed an awesome one-on-one lunch meeting. He shared his thoughts with me on a sample from the rough draft of Mayhem in Eagle Cove, the second of the Detective Larry series. His kind words about my upcoming novel were informative and inspirational. It was clear that this workshop would be a turning point in my writing experience. Exciting things will happen over the next few months as I finish the draft and send it to the editor. By the way, Mr. Saul has agreed to edit the upcoming book.

After lunch, we gathered for a village hike. Jonas led the three-hour hike from the ancient village of Lagada to Tholaria and back to the hotel. The gallery of photos below is a few from the hike. In one village, we stopped at Jonas’s home, where he unselfishly invited us in to see where he and Rania write and live during the high season on Amorgos. We were back in time for pre-dinner drinks. I’ve talked very little about the food at the resort. We gathered as a group each night and enjoyed a family-style Greek meal. Every day of the retreat was filled with information and encouragement that drove each attendee to be their best. We all came from different countries and backgrounds and wrote different genres, but the ability to feed off the knowledge of one another was as wonderful as the learning portions of our time there.

With the retreat ended, we left the resort at 4:45 a.m. for a ferry departure at 5:45. The ferry took us to Athens, where our driver picked us up and took us to our hotel, Attalos. After unpacking and settling into the hotel, we toured the Acropolis Museum.

Sunday at 11:00 a.m., we saw the changing of the guards at Syntagma Square. This is considered the best time to see this happen, and we had a great spot to view it.

Later in the evening, we toured Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon at sunset and got some great pictures.

We arranged to explore the ruins of ancient Corinth and the Corinth Canal the following day. We enjoyed a scenic drive from Athens to Corinth along the shores of the Saronic Gulf. The journey took us past beautiful beaches and the spectacularly narrow Corinth Canal, built to link the Saronic and Corinth Gulfs during the 1890s. Like the Panama Canal, it required several attempts before finally being completed. First proposed in the third century B.C. it wasn’t completed until 1893. In stark contrast, it is sea-level with no locks, narrow, and one single channel. It is 4 miles long and eighty feet wide making it impassable by most modern ships.

We strolled around the relics of Corinth, once an influential ancient Greek and Roman city, and then visited the seaside town of Kehreai.

Upon returning to Athens, we spent time exploring Monastiraki Square. The square was less than a six-minute walk from our hotel, and we found great Greek restaurants, shops, and a market. We found a place to change some money to Euros and bought a charge block for our phones. Taking pictures and roaming quickly depletes our phone batteries.

To put things in perspective, we arrived in Athens ahead of our travel buddies Daniel and Laura. They had been in the country for a few days and preferred exploring the countryside in a rental car. We finally caught up with them two days before the departure of our Greek cruise. Together, we visited the sites of Athens, starting with the Acropolis and Parthenon. Our hotel had a magnificent rooftop bar with amazing views, but nothing compared with fighting through the crowds to get up-close and personal.

The Acropolis

From there, we used the hop-on, hop-off bus, a great way to travel from site to site. We visited many archaeological sites and museums. Our first stop was the Temple of Zeus and the National Gardens. We then went to the National Archeological Museum. Time was getting the best of us, and we wanted to see more ruins, so we continued to the Ancient Agora (market), Hadrian’s Library, and the Temple of Hephaistos. We wrapped up our day with dinner at an amazing seafood restaurant, then a photo opportunity at the rooftop bar of our hotel.

We had breakfast together on our last day in Athens before parting ways. Daniel and Laura adventured in the morning while Jen and I packed and went for early boarding on the Norwegian Pearl. We reconnected later on the ship. They shared some great pictures from the morning.

When traveling with friends, everyone chooses what they want to see and do. We took numerous tours while Daniel and Laura took other excursions. We seldom went on the same adventures. Jen and I continued to explore archeological sites throughout Greece and beyond. The Norwegian Pearl moved us seamlessly from port to port.

The Norwegian Pearl

Our first port was Santorini. It is said that Santorini has more churches than houses, donkeys than people, and wine than water.

We visited Akrotiri, one of the 10 top Archaeological sites in the world, and learned about the prehistoric city, also known as the Pompei of the Aegean. The Theran eruption of approximately 1627 B.C. destroyed this unique Minoan settlement, and Spyridon Marinatos started the extensive excavation in 1967.

The nearly thirty-five centuries-old city still preserves many remains of its fine frescoes, everyday objects, and artwork because the volcanic ash protected them from the elements. At the time of the eruption, the city had reached great development and prosperity, with an elaborate drainage system and sophisticated multistoried buildings. Among other things, Akrotiri has been suggested to be the inspiration for Plato’s story of Atlantis.

The unique archeological site is completely under cover to protect it from the elements as the archeologists work to uncover its well-preserved treasures.

Following our visit to Akrotiri, we stopped at an impressive winery to taste Santorini’s famous wines, enjoy the magnificent view, and relax in its peaceful environment. Jen and I felt that the views were much better than the wine. Others in our group loved the wine. My take on it is that you shouldn’t go to Greece for the wine.

Our final destination was Fira, the cosmopolitan capital and one of Greece’s most famous and picturesque places. We had time to admire the white houses built on the crater’s slopes and explore the narrow paths before taking the cable car and the tender back to the ship.

On the second day, the ship docked in Mykonos. We took a great 3-D tour of Delos. To reach the ruins, we boarded a smaller boat and cruised to the nearby sacred island of Delos. We viewed a wealth of ruins using an electronic tablet with augmented-reality software that showed the structures as they appeared in ancient times.

According to Greek mythology, Apollo and his twin sister Artemis were born in Delos and first settled in the third millennium B.C. Archaeological discoveries excavated here have been deemed so indicative of an ancient cosmopolitan port that the island is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

All of the structures on Delos are excavated ruins, except for the museum and a few buildings for personnel. The landscape remains largely unaltered since ancient times because a town was never built over the original port, a rarity few other archaeological sites share.

As we meandered through the rather barren island, we saw ruins that included temples, statues, mosaic floors, and roads, such as the Sacred Way, which leads to the Sanctuary of Apollo. Another highlight is the Terrace of Lions, named for the Naxian marble lions that guard it. The originals are in the island’s museum to protect them from the elements.

The electronic tablet with 3D augmented reality software enhanced our understanding and enjoyment of the ruins. We pointed the tablet’s camera at a ruin and could view the structure as it originally stood centuries ago.

It is believed that the population of this port was poisoned by pirates, leaving the site untouched for thousands of years before being discovered.

The cruise was port heavy. We stopped at a different site nearly every day. On the third day, we tendered ashore in Zakynthos for a captivating tour, introducing us to Zakynthos Town, the island’s oldest monastery and a traditional island village. We began with a guided tour of Zakynthos Town, sometimes called the Venice of the South. We saw the expansive square named after Dionysios Solomos, the revered poet who wrote Greece’s national anthem, and continued past splendid landmarks. The Byzantine Museum and the Church of Saint Nicholas were amazing.

We then went to the village of Bochali, located below a Venetian fortress, and appreciated sweeping views of Zakynthos Town and the sparkling Ionian Sea. At the 14th-century Monastery of Anafonitria, we learned that Saint Dionysios, Zakynthos’ patron saint, served as the monastery’s abbot for most of his life. We viewed colorful 15th-century frescoes uncovered during the monastery’s painstaking renovation.

In the traditional mountain village of Volimes, we were taken to a modern olive press. The tour explained how olives are prepared and crushed for olive oil. The press has been family-owned for over 100 years, and past equipment was displayed, showing the business’s innovation over the years. The tour ended with a stroll along the city’s main shopping area.

On the fourth day, the ship docked in Corfu, where we indulged in a 4×4 excursion. We enjoyed the fun and adventure of Corfu’s countryside while traveling over stony trails through the olive groves. We caught glimpses of the sparkling Ionian Sea and beautiful green hills and saw many locals’ traditional way of life. Our guide led us up the main coastal road to the island’s northeast. We then took small country roads to quaint villages, stopping at the most charming and oldest on the island to take in the views.

We went uphill on a narrow, winding road that zigzagged to Sokraki, where we stopped to admire one of the most fantastic panoramic views. Continuing on a dusty road, we arrived at Troumbetta. We passed through other picturesque sites before stopping at Bella Vista to enjoy more spectacular views while enjoying refreshments and Greek snacks. We found it difficult to decide which village was the most appealing.

We also visited a traditional Koum Kouat distillery. The Koum Kouat citrus fruit, which only grows in Corfu, is made into one of the island’s most famous products: a liqueur with the same name and fruit-preserved sweets. We viewed a small exhibition of antique distillery equipment, sampled the produce, and purchased a bottle of the local liquor.

Jen and I toured Lapad Bay & Old Town on our next cruise stop. We enjoyed the panoramic views of Dubrovnik while riding through the hilly Lapad Peninsula. At a bay on the peninsula’s western shore, we stopped for a short walk to the Sunset Beach Club. It was an ideal setting to linger over a drink and enjoy the sweeping views of the sparsely populated Elaphiti islands. Afterward, we visited Dubrovnik’s medieval Old Town, which UNESCO deemed a World Heritage site for its extraordinary architecture. As we walked along the main street, the Stradun, we saw Saint Savior Church, the polygonal Fountain of Onofrio, and the Old Pharmacy, founded in 1317. The defensive stone walls surrounding Old Town were built in the 13th century.

  • The next day, we tendered ashore in Kotor, Montenegro, for a highlights & cable car adventure. We viewed Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm from several characteristic locales, ending with a cable car ride from the summit of Kuk Hill. During the descent, we gazed out over Kotor, its namesake bay, and the surrounding mountains. The terrain was so striking that when playwright George Bernard Shaw visited, he famously quipped from nearby Mount Lovćen, “Am I in paradise or Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm on the moon?” The vistas were just as memorable as we traveled through Lovćen National Park to Cetinje, once the royal capital of Montenegro. Founded in the 15th century, it was a lovely setting for our lunch as it lies in a green bowl at the foot of Mount Lovćen. Our next stop was in Budva, a medieval port that inspired the English poet Lord Bryon. He described it as “the most beautiful meeting of land and sea” and we discovered it still is.

The ship docked the following day at Split, where we toured Split Old Town and Trogir Medieval City, taking advantage of a rare opportunity to visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the same day. We discovered the treasures of Trogir and saw how the Romans influenced the old city of Split. The medieval city of Trogir boasted architectural treasures of beautiful stone houses, palaces, churches, monasteries, towers, and walls. The entire town was like an open-air museum, so strolling through its narrow streets was an unforgettable experience.

We visited the main attraction in Trogir, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, probably the finest example of sacred architecture in Croatia. The unusual construction with three naves and three apses dominates the entire town. The main portal carved by local artist Radovan in the 13th century is world famous. We also saw the Town Loggi, Town Hall, and Cipiko Palace. Afterward, we had some free time to explore on our own.

The old town of Split is built on and around the massive palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian. It represents the most important example of Roman architecture on the Adriatic. Our tour started in the cellars, which are very well preserved. We saw the Cathedral of St. Duje, considered one of the world’s oldest Catholic cathedrals that retains its original structure. We also saw the Golden Gate, the Silver Gate, and the Peristyle Square.

Our Greek Island-hopping cruise reached its final port at Ravenna, Italy. We did not go ashore due to a tropical bora. The bora is a northerly to northeasterly katabatic wind in areas near the Adriatic Sea. Similar nomenclature is used for north-eastern winds in other coastal areas of the eastern Mediterranean and Black Sea basins. I copied and pasted this description from Wikipedia.

A Bora

We disembarked the Pearl several hours later than expected after bidding a fond farewell to the crew, who showed us a magnificent cruise. The bora had left our ship floating in the Mediterranean, awaiting disembarkation. We took a shuttle from the port of Trieste to our hotel near the airport in Venice. Time, logistics, and late arrival gave us little time in Venice. We missed our adventure there but took the evening to enjoy a great Italian meal and relax in our 17th-century hotel. The hotel has been in the same family for centuries and President Reagan was a guest there (see the photo below). Venice was deluged with rain and wind.

Our return to Panama barely allowed us to do the laundry before leaving for Washington D.C., Bethesda, and Annapolis, Maryland. Jen and I flew to Baltimore, Maryland, a few days before Jen’s younger brother’s wedding. We spent two days in Washington, D.C. I had never been there, and it was an excellent opportunity to see our nation’s capital.

The photos below are randomly ordered and don’t do our visit justice. During the two days there, we visited The White House, the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial, The Vietnam War Memorial, The FBI, The Supreme Court, The Library of Congress, The US Capitol, and more. We walked what seemed to be a thousand miles. Our Congressman, Greg Steube, arranged for a private tour of the Capitol with one of his aids. That was a highlight of our visit. I particularly enjoyed the Library of Congress, while Jen enjoyed The Supreme Court. Background checks were required for The White House and FBI tours, making prior planning a must. Jen had the whole thing arranged and scheduled in advance.

It was a beautiful Saturday at the Naval Academy in Annapolis for Jon and Karine’s wedding. The ceremony was beautiful, and we were pleased to welcome Karine into the family and pray for special blessings for their happiness. The pictures below are some I captured walking into the chapel, where no pictures were allowed, and one of Jon, Karine, and Jon’s boys in the superintendent’s garden. The other is Jon and Karine cutting the cake.

Cutting the Wedding Cake

After the wedding, Jen returned to Panama while I flew to Florida.  As many of you know, Dad’s wife, Renee, passed away just before our trip to Greece. I could spend ten days with him before I returned to Panama. My time in Florida was eye-opening. The first picture below is from three years ago. It’s from Gilcrest Park last Monday. I returned to the same location to take pictures while I was there. The devastation in the park was awful. Hurricane Helene created a storm surge, depositing two boats in the park. After Hurricane Milton, I counted almost sixteen boats in the park, pickleball courts, and across the street. The takeaway here is the power of the storm surge. My family and I had no significant damage from the storm, but as I visited with my dad for more than a week, the devastation was heartbreaking. There were hundreds of homes with all their furniture out by the street. Dumpsters in driveways collected drywall and carpets from flooded homes.

We returned to Florida late in November for Renee’s memorial. The Celebration of Life was the beautiful tribute she certainly deserved.
While in Florida, I was invited to speak at her book club. Several group members approached me at her Celebration of Life and asked that I join them for their regular monthly meeting. Many showed up with copies of Murder in Eagle Cove and asked that I sign them. Members of the group bought every copy I had with me. They added it to their current reading list, and we discussed where the series will go from the end of the first book. They are superfans, and I loved every minute of it. They are as anxious for the second in the series as I am. I’m working to have a mini launch and book signing in Punta Gorda, Florida, in May, along with a book signing tour from Florida to Boston, where the series takes place.
The Punta Gorda Book Club

We got our condo in Port Charlotte ready for our snowbird tenants before departing. Our plans for the last big adventure of the year were tweaked just a little for Renee’s memorial.

We drove to Miami, returned our rental car, and overnighted before boarding the Norwegian Joy.

Norwegian Joy

Our first port was in Cozumel, Mexico. Admittedly, this is someplace we’d been before, but how can you not love the adventuring experience there? We enjoyed a unique excursion, Cozumel by Land & Sea. It combined an insider’s view of local chocolate and tequila production as a postlude for exploring the wonders underwater in a semi-submersible. At the Mayan Cacao Company, we saw how chocolate is made from cacao. This process dates back to the ancient Mayans, who drank chocolate for ceremonial and medicinal purposes as far back as 500 BC. After sampling some creamy (and exceptionally yummy) chocolate, we proceeded to a tequila-tasting seminar for a tasting that presented the historical and cultural importance of tequila on the Yucatan peninsula.

A different perspective of Cozumel awaited us just offshore on Paradise Reef, where we explored the underwater world in a semi-submersible way. Although the vessel’s viewing windows were only a few feet below the water’s surface, the sights were extraordinary. We saw a riot of brilliantly colored fish and coral reefs.

Our second port was in Harvest Caye, Belize. This was another of the places we have yet to have the opportunity to explore. It was on the list of possible retirement destinations before choosing Panama. Our ship was the only one in port, making it an easy, laid-back stop. Jen and I enjoyed Rainforest River Tubing. There was a genuine feel for rural life while we drove through the densely forested countryside to Maya World Outpost, the starting point for our adventure. After a short briefing to help maximize the tubing experience, we eased into the refreshing but cold river, and the current carried us downstream. Floating down the slow-moving river on an inner tube, we took in the spectacular rainforest scenery while listening to the ambient sounds of the jungle. Mountain springs feed the river, so the water is crystal-clear. Along the way, we passed through a picturesque mountain gorge over a series of small rapids and under overhanging trees, keeping us primarily in the shade. The ever-changing scenery added to the excitement and made the trip memorable. We heard and saw squawking tropical birds abundant in the protected rainforest.

A Mayan Statue at the entrance of Maya World Outpost.

Next, we made port in Costa Maya, Mexico. We didn’t plan any excursions there as we’d visited before. We decided instead to remain aboard the ship and enjoy the incredible offerings. We opted to add the adults-only area, Vibe Club, to our package on this cruise. We loved the special adult-only atmosphere and enjoyed the hot tub and high-end bar. Taking a cruise is only sometimes about the amazing ports and adventures. We could kick back and relax while someone else did the cooking, laundry, and housekeeping. The bars and restaurants aboard the Norwegian ship did an excellent job keeping us fed and hydrated. Thanksgiving dinner was prime rib, soup, vegetables, and pumpkin cheesecake. We could have selected turkey and all the fixings, but why when the prime rib is on the menu? Another great benefit of a cruise vacation is the awesome shows…we had the Beetles on board. There were also comics and multiple talented entertainers rounding out the long list of entertainment.

Our delightful cruise continued to Roatan, Honduras, where we made port on Thursday. Roatan was another consideration for our retirement strategy. We have friends in Panama who nearly opted for this beautiful island offshore from Honduras. We could see why. It’s full of English-speaking expats, and the near-perfect tropical Caribbean climate was amazing.

Jen is hooked on ATV adventures. She booked us on an amazing adventure through the rainforest and mangroves. The adventure began in the village of Politilly Bight, where we hopped on ATVs and raced off caravan-style, following the guide into the surrounding wilderness. We saw the natural beauty that abounds in the island’s more remote regions, riding the ATV through a tropical rainforest. The recent rain and natural trails with potholes had mud flying, making driving all the more fun and our shoes and clothes dirty. After a brief stop at a traditional Garifuna village, we were transferred to Oak Ridge, the island’s oldest fishing community. From there, we cruised along the mangrove-lined shores of southern Roatan. Mangrove forests line the banks almost everywhere and often create tunnels in the tree canopy that our boat easily navigated through. Besides being environmentally beneficial, mangroves shelter many animals, especially water birds such as green herons and roseate spoonbills.

We concluded the cruise in Miami. With another great adventure in the rearview mirror, we departed the Port of Miami by coach with a knowledgeable guide for a one-hour drive to Everglades National Park. This world-renowned eco-system covers about 5,000 square miles and is home to most of Florida’s alligators, snakes, black bears, wild pigs, over two hundred species of birds, including herons, egrets, white ibis, anhingas, roseate spoonbills, wood storks, ospreys, hawks, vultures, eagles and more, plus the endangered and nocturnal Florida Panther – less than 100 remaining in the wild.

We boarded our airboat for a thirty-minute exhilarating ride over the “River of Grass,” where we encountered several different creatures. After the airboat ride, we enjoyed an alligator show and various crocodilian exhibits. We then had time to visit the souvenir shop. On the drive back to the city, our guide gave us great insight into the two Florida tribes of Native American Indians.

Our Miami adventure continued with a sightseeing and millionaire boat tour. We started at South Beach in the Art Deco History District. After South Beach, we explored the Wynwood Art District before moving on to Little Havana. The guide had our driver take us through Coconut Grove, Miami’s oldest and most prestigious neighborhood. At the Bayside Marketplace, we had lunch before boarding the Millionaire’s Cruise. The guide pointed out celebrity homes and offered fun facts. It went by so fast that all the homes photographed were not identified.

Our day ended at Superblue Miami, where Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s interactive artwork was presented in an amazing new sound and light installation by Studio Lemercier. Each room of the Superblue exhibit was a different experience. One room was full of bubbles falling from the ceiling, one had mirrors and lights, and another was a laser light experience.

After two full days of exploring Miami, we caught a flight with 18 other adventure seekers to Cuba. I stated earlier that the pinnacle of our adventures in 2024 was my Writer’s retreat in Greece. If you haven’t yet read our blog post from Cuba, it’s worth your time. I was blown away by the history, culture, and people there. You can use the link above or on the sidebar to access it.

I couldn’t conclude this post without talking about a few other significant things. I was invited to speak at several events and participated in some podcasts. My interview with Retire There is due to be published shortly.

Watch my newsletter for information about that as it becomes available. I had a great interview with Melissa Darnay from Choose Panama about our retirement, my writing, and life in Panama. That interview was posted to her website and nationwide on every platform where people enjoy great podcasts. My interview with Melissa is available here.

I talked earlier about Renee Johnson’s death. We also lost one of our dearest friends here in Panama, Barbara Munn. Barb and Renee were both instrumental in the writing of my first novel and advised me on the second before they passed. Jen and I are sad at the loss of these beautiful women. May they both rest in eternal peace.

We’re home in Panama, and it’s just a few days until Christmas. We anxiously await the miracle of the newborn Christ Jesus. We will be celebrating with our church family and fellowshipping on Christmas Eve. On Christmas day, we will be having a small dinner party with a few of our most special friends. Panama has provided Jen and me with special friendships that will last a lifetime.

The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events. Of course, if you’re not subscribed to receive this blog in your inbox, check the sidebar for the link to subscribe. I never share my subscriber list, and I never send spam. Your privacy is highly respected.

Have a blessed New Year,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Victoria’s Panama Adventure

Jen and I have four grandchildren, and we have told them that we will bring them for a visit to Panama between their junior and senior years of high school. The first of these was our oldest granddaughter, Victoria. Kids back in our day made scrapbooks of their adventures, but kids today are all about electronics. I am compiling this blog post chronicling Victoria’s awesome Panama adventures to share with her and our readers. I took nearly a thousand pictures in the ten days she was here. I will share the best of her adventure pictures and many amazing things we did during her visit.

Victoria Kavos

The first phase of her adventure involved traveling from her home in Alabama to the Atlanta International Airport. There, she boarded her nonstop Copa flight to Panama City. We were able to upgrade her to a business-class seat. We met her at the arrival area of Tocumen International Airport, where she got her first glimpse of life in Panama. It should come as no surprise that the primary language in Panama is Spanish, and it is sometimes difficult to find people who speak English. She went easily through immigration but had difficulty at customs. Because she is under 18, completion of the customs declaration is not required. However, the customs agent forced her to complete it before passing. If minors travel alone to Panama, I suggest they complete the form ahead and have it available. Victoria was stressed enough without having to communicate with a customs agent who did not know her job or speak any English.

Because of her late evening arrival, we stayed in Panama City overnight. We checked into the hotel directly across from the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal. Wednesday was her first full day of adventuring in Panama. We arranged for our good friend, Marc Vargas, to be our guide for the day.

We spent the entire day Wednesday exploring the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal, Monkey Islands, and the Mercado de Mariscos (fresh fish market). The canal tour was perfect, and we saw big ships passing through the locks at Miraflores, watched the 3-D movie about the canal, and took some great pictures. It was nice to have Marc’s wife, Keren, join us for the day. She’s a flight attendant for Copa and had the day off. She later talked to some of her colleagues, one of which met Victoria on her flight home. “Oh, you must be Keren’s friend,” she said. Victoria had great service from the entire flight crew on her return flight despite us not getting her an upgrade.

After the Panama Canal, we traveled to Lake Gatun and boarded a panga bound for Monkey Islands. The trip to the islands where the monkeys live is as much an adventure as seeing the monkeys. Lake Gatun is the widest portion of the canal, and we passed ships transiting on our journey. Lake Gatun is a manmade lake formed by dams and flooding the high-elevation land in the mountains. The small islands in it are what were once the tops of mountains. The continental divide passes through the middle of the lake. The day was a bit rainy but not enough to dampen spirits. At least no human spirits. The monkeys did not come down to our boat but we did see dozens of them. They wouldn’t even come from their dry perches in the jungle trees to get a banana.

After our monkey adventure, we traveled into Panama City to see the Mercado de Mariscos and have lunch. Marc is a master at finding the best places to park. He got us both great parking spaces in a lot just across the footbridge from the market. Keren checked earlier and spoke with someone at the market about purchasing scallops. We were on a mission to buy scallops for ceviche. She was told there was some, but we didn’t find it, so we purchased fresh shrimp cleaned and deveined for $5 per pound instead. Victoria and I were planning to make a trial run of ceviche for the Panama Fonda Cookbook that I will be publishing later this year. Every recipe must be tried and tested. We tested several during her visit. She is a great cook and loved working with me to test the recipes.

After taking in the market, we went to the back, where over fifty sidewalk restaurants serve the best seafood on the planet. We were seated at Marc’s favorite, and we all ordered food and drinks. We had a delightful meal and bid Marc and Keren farewell, with plenty of time to reach Coronado before dark.

We regularly volunteer at Word of Life Camp in Chame during camp season. While Victoria was here, Word of Life was holding an English-speaking camp, so we took her there for a morning of preparation for the day’s meals. She was a great help, and we were able to give her a tour of the campgrounds and see some of the activities taking place. On our way to our volunteer position at the camp, we stopped for Victoria’s first fonda experience. The dictionary defines fonda as an American actor. In Panama, a fonda is a small roadside restaurant offering Panamanian food. I often tell people that fonda means “cheap food.” These small open-air restaurants are usually only open for breakfast and lunch. They are known for low prices and authentic Panamanian food. The establishments usually prepare their offering early in the morning, and when it’s gone, they close. Finding a cheap meal that we do not have to prepare ourselves has always been high on our list of importance. It was important for Victoria to experience dining in a fonda before we attempted to test-fly the recipes for the Panama Fonda Cookbook.

We worked together to make shrimp ceviche over the weekend and had visitors, Lorin and Judy, come for the taste test.

Pink Shrimp Ceviche was a big NO for the cookbook.  

Unfortunately, the ceviche recipe did not make the cut. It got poor scores, so we reopened the search for the perfect recipe to put in the recipe book. We made the Sancocho recipe another day and invited our good friends, Randy and Cyndi, to come for the Sancocho taste test.

Panama’s National Food Sancocho

Five thumbs up guaranteed it a place in the recipe book. Another day, we made a batch of hojaldres for breakfast, and the three of us ate the whole batch. They were yummy. We had some yucca left from the Sancocho recipe, so we cut it up and made cassava fries. That recipe will also be in the cookbook. They were amazing. We fried them in the air fryer and made Cilantro Lime Mayonnaise for dipping (not pictured).

Hojaldres
Cassava fries

We took some downtime to play Bingo at Hawaii Restobar in Nueva Gorgona. Hector and his team do a great job of providing entertainment and pub food for the expat community. Victoria enjoyed hanging out in one of our favorite places to relax and enjoy the fun. We didn’t win, but it sure was a fun time.

Bingo at Hawaii

Victoria went with us to aqua aerobics at the club on Saturday.

Notice the ominous clouds and raindrops on the water.
This guy was enjoying the aqua aerobics too.

We intended to spend the afternoon going to Santa Clara for lobster. Unfortunately the lobster/beach day in Santa Clara was rained out. By the time the rain stopped, we had eaten left-over sancocho and made plans for a movie. We saw a great movie, giving her the Panama movie theater experience. It was the perfect way to spend a rainy day. It was a lucky break that there was a movie in English that interested all of us. On our journey to the theater, we drove up the highway to the big artisan market and shopped around for gifts Victoria wanted to purchase for her siblings.

We had an entire day exploring El Valle de Anton, including the Sunday Market. The market is open seven days a week. Most days, you’ll find vendors who have orchids, and you’ll find magnificent carvings and handmade baskets. These baskets are popular with expats, and you’ll find that most homes have at least one around the house for various uses. The baskets are expensive because of the work that goes into making them. The sellers of the baskets rarely negotiate on the prices; however, most everything else in the market carries a price that can be negotiated.

Seeking treasured gifts at the Sunday Market in El Valle.

With over 2,000 species, Panama has the most abundant and beautiful butterflies in the world. The butterfly habitat lets visitors get up close and personal with the country’s butterflies. A private guide shows an educational film and conducts a tour. Once inside the habitat, you’ll have the opportunity to see butterflies at every stage of growth and enjoy their beauty. The guide will give information and interesting facts about the butterflies in residence inside the habitat. Pictures from this exhibit will be something that you will treasure from the visit.

The Orchids Center (Aprovaca Orquideas) concentrates on conserving endangered native orchids and promoting ecotourism and environmental education. It is just off the main road and equally interesting. Orchids are natural to the area, with over 1,400 varieties, and almost every variety of the beautiful flower is represented. Each orchid has a different time of year when it blooms, so each visit is a new and beautiful experience. Like the butterfly habitat, each group has a private tour. The guides are a wealth of knowledge and will tell you things you will never learn elsewhere. On our visit we found very few blooming orchids. It was a nice walk through the habitat.

The town of La Mesa is located nearby in the Valle de Anton. It is the site of the Chorro el Macho waterfall. This 280-foot waterfall is considered one of the most beautiful areas of the valley. It is a short walk north through the lush rainforest. A large pool fed by the falls is at the base of the falls. It was open for swimming once, but swimming is no longer permitted.

Walking paths allowed us to explore the area. Suspension bridges cross the river providing views of the falls. For the more adventurous, zip lines through the treetops provide breathtaking aerial views of the Chorro el Macho waterfall. When you enter the area to pay the admission, you will be offered a walking stick; take one. You can hire a guide here who will point out the local birds, animals, butterflies, and other points of interest. This is also the place to arrange for the zip line tour. We did not zip line on our visits to the falls, but this is something that has been enjoyed by several of our guests.

We also hiked to a different part of the volcano’s rim, where we could take in the magnificent views of the valley. From that viewpoint, we saw the Sleeping Indian. It does look exactly as advertised. It was breathtaking.

We chose to have lunch at a favorite restaurant in El Valle for a casual meal, Zapote. It’s on the right, as you enter town before you reach the market. They offer a wide variety of food options on a massive menu. With large, tasty pizzas and delectably fresh ceviche, the restaurant also offers Panama’s traditional dish, sancocho. With so many great meal options, there was something to please everyone.

On our way out of town, we stopped at the Valle de Anton Museum. The small museum gives a unique historical view of the area. One exhibit shows the history of the volcano’s formation and eventual habitation. Another exhibit highlights the native people, while the wildlife is on full display in others. There is a short film at the end.

Our day was packed with cool experiences. On the way down the mountain, we stopped for a pipa fria. It’s much better, healthier, and more refreshing than ice cream.

Pipa Fria

Early the following week, we had beach time, relaxed at the pool, and hiked to Filipina Falls. At the trailhead, we were met by the dogs who showed us the way. We passed a big, ugly black goose on the trail and got our feet wet.

A little beach adventure

Wednesday morning, we left early to tour the Gamboa Rainforest. Before taking a cable car ride through the jungle canopy, we toured the butterfly exhibit, poison frog pond, orchid house, and sloth sanctuary. At the end of the cable car, we strolled to the top of a 90-foot tower to admire the jungle, Panama Canal, and Chagres River, which flows into Lake Gatun. From the tower, we could see an Embera Village tucked into the jungle near the river as we enjoyed the sounds of the jungle.

Gamboa Rain Forest Resort.
A selfie at the top of the canopy tower

After our amazing morning, we enjoyed lunch at Maagoo Fish Tacos before continuing to The Panama Museum of Biodiversity. Puente de Vida (“Bridge of Life”) is a portal to the earth’s richest and most diverse ecosphere. Internationally renowned architect Frank Gehry designed it. It’s located at the end of the Amador Causeway in Panama City, facing the Pacific Ocean at the entrance of the Panama Canal.

A selfie at the Biodiversity Museum

From the air, the beautiful building was designed to look like a bird in flight. The first stop on the tour through the museum is a look at the animals that share this land. The animals are ranked on a wall as to their existence, and some are now extinct. Others are only maintained in captivity. The golden toad is one of these creatures. It was thought to only exist in the dense, unexplored jungle. Now, there is a belief that the toads are only still here in zoos and aquariums.

The tour continues with a wonderful 360-degree film that challenges all your senses. It even plays on the floor. The film depicts the wonderful nature of Panama, including panoramic views of mountains, rivers, jungles, and oceans. As we continue, we learn how the land mass of Panama was created, forming a connection between South and North America. Volcanoes created what is called an isthmus between the two continents. The resulting land bridge allowed the migration of many species of animals in both directions. It also caused a change in the biology of both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. By blocking the water flow between the two bodies of water, two distinct oceans with different chemistries were created. This natural phenomenon caused the waters of the Pacific to warm and the Atlantic waters to remain colder.

As people continue through the museum, they enter an area of life-size cast animals. This exhibit is very cool. It shows the animals in the size and magnitude they migrated from one continent to another. Many people recognize some, as they are still here, while many are extinct. Much of what I have learned about the emergence of the isthmus of Panama, I learned from the exhibits at the Bio-Diversity Museum. The great biotic interchange, or the movement of plants and animals between North and South America, began millions of years ago. Some of the plants and animals found in Panama today have origins in North America, while others have origins in South America. Panama continues to bridge the two continents, providing annual migration routes for millions of birds. Other animals spread north or south through Panama due to environmental changes caused by humans.

We planned to go to Panama Vieja following the museum, but our plans were too aggressive. The tour of the ruins would have to wait for a future visit as our day ran short of hours. Instead, we explored the Amador Causeway, where we found an ice cream store and a few shops where Victoria could finish shopping for souvenirs for her family. She found her dad a Panama Hat. The best quality hats are known as Montecristis, after the town of Montecristi, where they are produced. The rarest and most expensive Panama hats are hand-woven with up to 3,000 weaves per square inch.  According to popular lore, a “Montecristi superfino” Panama hat can hold water and, when rolled up, pass through a wedding ring. She found a nice hat for her dad in a shop on Amador Causeway within her budget. While it’s not a superfino, it is a Montecristi. While I doubt it is woven tight enough to hold water, it rolled up and fit nicely into a box the shop owner provided.

We checked into our hotel near the airport and ordered an Uber to take us to dinner. Dinner was at a favorite Mexican restaurant in Metro Mall. After dinner, we wandered around until the mall closed before returning to the hotel. We were all exhausted.

Morning came much too soon. We woke up early and took Victoria to the airport. There were tearful goodbyes and a feeling of void left by her departure. We could feel Victoria’s excitement about returning to her family. As we stood in line at the Copa check-in counter, she excitedly looked at the first stamp on her passport.

Each time we have visitors, the time together never seems to be enough. The experience of having a grandchild visit magnifies this times a hundred. We wanted to latch on and keep her here longer. Our guest room stands in wait for the next guest. We love to show any visitor the beautiful country where we have chosen to spend retirement. Our next grandchild will be a long wait, but we are already anxious for his visit. In the meanwhile, we would love to see you here!

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

The best place to explore from…Panama!

I’ve talked at length in my book and newsletter about the amazing travel opportunities for retired people living in Panama. Part of the reason for our retirement location decision was the travel we wanted to do as we approached our golden years. We wanted a home where travel is essentially easy to destinations worldwide. Recently, we reported on the opening of the new cruise port on the Amador Causeway in Panama City. When Norwegian began servicing the port, we learned of an amazing cruise itinerary. It turns out that we were among several expat couples who noticed the extraordinary opportunity. We booked the cruise with no concern for air travel.

Rendition of the completed cruise port

We traveled with two other couples from our home in Coronado by private shuttle on February 22. The cruise port is still not 100% complete due to construction delays caused by Covid, so our driver dropped us at the amazing, new convention center where our luggage was collected, documents were processed, and the immigration process was completed. We waited in the comfortable facility to be called in groups for shuttle to our ship. The Norwegian Jewel is one of the smaller ships on their fleet, however we were told that it was leaving port at full capacity (about 2400 passengers).

Newly completed Panama City Convention Center

The passengers were all checked in and comfortably settled into their staterooms by 3:00 and the beautiful ship pulled away from the dock headed to the Gulf of Panama to get in the que for the Panama Canal. We began exploring to find the restaurants and bars aboard. We had dinner overlooking the Gulf of Panama. Following dinner, we found entertainment that surpassed belief. The ship had vocal musicians and dancers/acrobats who entertained the passengers at several venues, including the Stardust theater where nightly shows played.

At 6:00 a.m., the ship began its transit of the Panama Canal. An esteemed member of the Panama Canal Authority, Mr. Jaime Robleto, gave a full narration of the history and construction of this amazing structure. As we passed through each lock and Lake Gatun, the ship moved effortlessly under the direction of the Panama Canal Pilot, who boarded and took control of the ship’s transit. It was amazing how quickly the day passed before going under the Atlantic Bridge and traveling out into the Caribbean. The Panama Canal Pilot had exited the ship, and the captain regained control for the overnight passage to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.

Whether drawn to beautiful scenery, fascinated by history, or craving adventure, the best way to explore Puerto Limon was to take home a story from an exciting shore excursion. We opted to take the Caribbean Train, Eco Cruise, and Countryside tour. We boarded the open-air train and traveled through the rainforest and banana groves of Costa Rica until reaching our tour bus and being transported to a canal adventure. We motored through mangroves where we witnessed wildlife indigenous to the Costa Rican paradise. Forgive me, but the opportunity for great pictures here was limited. Following our adventure, we were returned to the ship.

The ship left Costa Rica for travel to Curacao. The trip took us through the night and a full day at sea, during which we were able to enjoy the pools, spa, driving range, casino, sports courts, jogging track, and numerous other activities. We enjoyed the tribute to Elton John by Jeffrey Allen in the Stardust Theater after dinner. During the cruise we found ourselves also enjoying the music of Louis Razon in the Magnum Bar. Every stage on the ship offered different entertainment and it was often difficult to decide where to be.

Our cruise package gave us dinner at one of the premium restaurants. We opted for Cagney’s Steakhouse, where our group enjoyed prime rib which we rarely get in Panama. The dinner was a highlight of our trip and the only time we took pictures of the food. I must say, however that the food aboard was all spectacular with one exception. We checked in at Chin Chin for Asian Fusion one night, and everyone at the table was disappointed. Nobody finished their plate. The great thing about a cruise is if one place disappoints, there are others. We slipped into a different place later for appetizers and dessert. O’Sheehan’s Pub was open 24 hours and proved to be a favorite venue for some of our meals. We all enjoyed Azura for several dinners and The Palace for other dinners and breakfasts. We enjoyed the buffet for other breakfasts and a lunch or two. Most of us tried to avoid the buffet for portion control reasons.

On day 5 of our adventure, the captain parked the ship in the port at Willemstad, Curacao around 2:00 p.m. Willemstad is the capital of the Dutch Caribbean Island, Curacao and its beauty hit us as soon as the ship pulled into port. The island is known for its pastel-colored town square as vibrant as tropical flora. Unique to Willemstad is the floating pedestrian bridge that spans the deep and narrow channel splitting the city’s two districts. We opted to explore the shopping, a fort at the port, and have an ice-cold local beer at one end of the floating bridge. It was Sunday and we found several of the shops closed. After a couple of hours, we returned to the ship and continued to enjoy the onboard activities. We left port around 9:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to our next destination Bonaire.

We arrived at Kralendijk, Bonaire around 7:00 a.m. on day 6. The countless coral reefs surrounding its shore are home to more than 400 species of marine life, earning it the nickname diver’s paradise. Many on the ship took off for dive or snorkeling adventures, while others boarded a glass bottomed gondola for prime undersea views. Still others explored the Washington Slagbaii National Park which covers a fifth of the island. Bonaire offered endless outdoor adventures with a healthy dose of colonial charm. Our little group of adventurers opted for some local shopping. The ship departed at around 8:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to Aruba.

The ship docked at Oranjestad, Aruba at 7:00 a.m. on day 7. Oranjestad, Aruba is a bustling harbor city whose streets and malls are dotted with international luxury retailers, diverse boutiques, and dazzling jewelry stores. Fascinating restored landmark buildings can be found along the way, such as Fort Zoutman, Aruba’s oldest building dating back to 1798, which was built to protect the city from pirates. There’s also the Willem III Tower built in 1868. It was once a lighthouse and public clocktower. The Historical Museum, positioned between the two buildings, houses a permanent exhibition outlining the main events in Aruban history. We opted for a best of Aruba tour where we were treated with one of the best guides around. She drove our bus across most of the island stopping to allow us to explore some of the most talked about sites on there. We motored past Haystack before stopping at Casibari, a natural rock formation. We exited the bus and were allowed time to climb the rocks and explore. Once we returned to the bus, she drove us to a very interesting Aloe plantation and factory for a tour. Then we went to the California Lighthouse, all the way getting interesting history and information about “one happy island.” She drove us past all of the beaches and resorts before our final stop, where we were able to spend a few minutes at Eagle Beach. We saw wind surfers and pirate ships along the way. This was a private tour that we arranged outside the ship. She kindly dropped us near the shopping district, so we could explore before returning to the ship. The captain departed around 8:00 p.m. despite the fact that everyone had not returned. Must be that those 2 people were having much too fun and lost track of time. A cruise ship has to maintain a rigid schedule. This was the busiest of the ports we visited with at least 5 other cruise ships docked. Our next stop was Santa Marta.

After 1 day and 2 nights of onboard activities, we made landfall at 8:00 a.m. in Santa Marta, Colombia. Santa Marta is described as pure flavor. The city’s diversity is evident in its landscape, people, and every aspect of its culture. It’s a destination that truly embraces its visitors and makes them feel at home. Santa Marta’s beautiful terrain is its most distinguishing feature with unforgettable landscapes, green foliage, blue sea, yellow sun, and sand. The contrast between the beaches and the white peaked Sierra Nevada, makes Santa Marta a must-see destination. We opted for a full day journey to the Taironaka Indian Reserve. Our tour bus transported us through the city and into the highlands of the Seirra Nevada Mountains, where we exited and hiked to the reserve. This was a difficult hike for many of us and it wasn’t recommended for anyone over 60 years old, children, or anyone with medical conditions. Our tour group had all of these, and a medic hiked with us to the reserve. The reserve had been restored to resemble some of what it may have looked like when occupied by the indigenous people. A museum there contained artifacts uncovered and our guide filled us with history and culture of the people. These were believed to be the first inhabitants of the country. They were gold crafters who also made beautiful pottery, textiles, and baskets. The Spanish had looted their graves which contained gold, jewelry, and other artifacts. Fortunately, their only interest was the gold and much of the rest was left behind for us to enjoy. There was a river nearby and several of our fellow adventurers walked down to wade into its cool water before making the hike down. Our bus returned us to the ship. The exhausted passengers rested and recovered on the ride.

The ship departed at 5:00 p.m. for the overnight journey to Cartagena. The crew on the ship told us that this was the first time they had stopped at Santa Marta.

We arrived on day 10 of our adventure at Cartagena, Colombia. Cartagena is a gorgeous fishing village on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. It has excellent beaches, a historic old town, and colonial architecture. Often considered one of the safest places in Colombia, it’s no wonder it’s a popular cruise port. The first thing one notices when exiting the port is the fabulous estuary between the dock and the street where taxis are available. Our small group got a taxi into the walled city. The taxis and traffic were brutal. The taxi drivers were trying to get usurious fares, and we negotiated before getting into one. Even with careful negotiations we paid $5 USD each for the hot uncomfortable ride. We explored part of the walled city and bought some small trinkets before returning to the ship. Our return taxi ended up costing a more reasonable $10 for four people.

Once onboard the ship, we were all feeling sad that our cruise was coming to an end. The ship departed port at 3:00 p.m. for our final leg of the trip to Colon, Panama. We all went to our staterooms to pack. All luggage had to be in the hall by 9:00 p.m. We went for a final delicious meal at what had become one of our favorite restaurants, Azura. We visited some of our favorite crew members who had served us well on our journey and took in a final show at the Stardust Theater.

Our favorite Bar Server has just brought us a round of mini beers. He takes a mean selfie.
Forbidden shot during one of the acrobatic performances.

I woke early, showered, packed my carry-on bag, and went up on deck to enjoy our arrival to Colon. I was taken back by how beautiful the port town appeared as it slept. I know from experience that this is one of the most dangerous towns in the country. We had our private transportation picking us up on the dock. The extreme poverty was evident as our driver navigated his way to the highway and our return to Coronado.

Jen and I are happy to be returning to a normal schedule of adventuring. Later this year, we will be visiting Riviera Maya in Mexico, where we will stay in a resort near Cancun. In December, we will be traveling to Peru where we will visit Machu Pichu and take an exploration into the Amazon Rainforest. From Peru, we plan to travel to the United States for a few days in Florida. Although the arrangements are still fuzzy, we are planning a cruise from Santiago, Chili around the entire continent of South America, which will conclude in Rio de Janeiro. That will be in March and April of next year. Stay tuned for more. If you want to hear about all our exciting travel, make sure you subscribe to get our blog delivered to your inbox. We will never spam you or sell your information.

Blessings from Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Our San Blas Adventure

In an article dated January 20, 2022, Joey Bonura lists the 14 Incredible Islands you must visit in Panama. As I scrolled through the article and checked out what he had to say about each, I realized that I could nearly own this list. I have referenced Joey’s blog below. He is a professional blogger sharing great information from his adventures throughout Latin America. Jen and I have had a hard time adventuring in Panama during Covid, but we are resuming our special adventure routine within the country and beyond.

Early last month we checked off one such adventure with a visit to San Blas. San Blas was high on my bucket list, and we scheduled our visit through Elias Perez with Kuna Yala Expeditions. I have referenced Kuna Yala Expeditions below for anyone interested in an adventure there. Our visit was a full emersion experience, staying on the island of Corbiski, where Elias is the administrator and a teacher at a school that educates over 140 Guna children. Almost half his students come from several of the surrounding islands arriving daily by boat.

One of the most outstanding destinations within the national territory of Panama is located in the northern Caribbean coast and is composed of about 365 islands, certainly one island for each day of the year, all of coral origin along 200 miles of coastline in the Caribbean Sea. The chain of islands is called the San Blas Archipelago, and officially known as the Kuna Yala Region. the map below gives a little perspective.

It’s likely that most tourists have heard about this archipelago, and many have seen documentaries on television about this paradise in Panama as the necklace of coral islands has become one of the most popular eco-tourism destinations within the Central American and Caribbean region. Kuna Yala is an autonomous region within the Panamanian territory, and its history dates back more than 500 years before the arrival of the Spaniards to the new continent. Its population comprises approximately 61,707 Kunas (according to the 2000 Census), who reside on the islands and mainland (located in the vicinity of Lake Bayano in northeastern Panama), distributed in about 48 villages in the region.

The Kunas, as the members of the region are called, are considered one of the few indigenous tribes of the American continent that keeps their culture almost intact despite the global changes that affect the world around them. We decided to learn a little more about the Kuna Yala region, the Kunas, their culture, and tourist attractions.

Jen and I had an amazing adventure in San Blas. We traveled to Panama City on Monday afternoon and settled into a room at the Riande. We like to stay there because they allow us to leave our car while we’re adventuring for $5.00 per day. We had a little time for shopping and dinner in the city before grabbing a nightcap and turning in early.

A nightcap before turning in early

Our driver picked us up at 5:40 a.m. for our journey to the port. San Blas can be accessed from Panama City by air daily with 25-minute flights depending on your destination within this set of islands. We opted for the more adventurous journey.  We were transported by four-wheel drive vehicle from the Riande hotel in Panama City, taking the Pan-American Highway toward the Bayano region. It was nearly an hour into the trip that the driver turned off the Pan-American highway near El Llano de Chepo to go directly to the coastal community of Cartí. This option is not for the faint of heart and only accessible during certain months. The road is extremely rough, winding through the mountainous jungle.  A person would have to be insane to take their personal vehicle on this road. It was about an hour before we arrived at the passport checkpoint. Technically, when you enter the Kuna-Yala territory you are entering a sovereign nation.

The passport checkpoint (No photographs allowed)

After passing the checkpoint it was another hour through the winding, rutted jungle road before we reached the port of Cartí.

A good stretch of the road

Once we reached the dock, we were met by our boat captain and guide. They would be taking care of us for our entire visit.

The dock at the Cartí Port

I was able to get some of the information above from Panama 24.org. I referenced their site below if you’re interested in reading more about the Kuna-Yala.

Our first island stop was one of the most famous islands in San Blas, Dog Island.  This is often considered one of the cleanest waters of the world and one of the best places in San Blas to snorkel. There is an old army gunboat sunk near the shore that is easily reached for the snorkeling enthusiast. We were thrilled by the warm, crystal clear, blue Caribbean water. We found changing rooms and hit the beach, enjoying the peaceful serenity of this beautiful location. We spent the remainder of the morning soaking in the sun and swimming.

Dog Island Photo by Mónica J. Mora

There was a small kitchen on the island manned by Kuna women who served us delightful whole fried Corvina, coconut rice and patacones. After a nice lunch, we had more time to enjoy the beach and swim before our boat captain rounded us up. He and the other guide took us to a cool natural swimming place in the middle of the ocean where the water was probably less than 18″ deep. He dropped anchor and invited us to enjoy this amazing place. We jumped from the boat and began exploring the edges which dropped off instantly into the deep, warm Caribbean.  One of the guides walked the entire perimeter, returning with a big armful of conch shells. We got some really neat pictures thanks to one of the other adventurers. The boat had snorkel gear on board, but we didn’t use it (I was concerned with using community snorkel gear because of Covid).

Standing in the middle of the ocean

On our journey, the boat guides toured us around past several islands, giving us a sense of this magnificent place.  The island of Corbiski is where our accommodations were located. The island is the home of many natives. As the boat approached the dock, we could see that the homes of the people went up to the edge of the water covering every bit of available land. There is no infrastructure of roads and utilities. The concerns for environmental changes are apparent, but there is no place to dispose of waste. The first thing I noticed is an abundance of garbage. I was told that all garbage had to be transported back to the mainland where there was a cost for disposal.

The island of Corbiski
These little islands were everywhere
Enjoying the boat journey

Most of the native people live on a few of the larger islands with the smaller islands receiving tourists for beach adventures or camping. Some of the smaller islands turn into party spots after dark. We were thankful for the quiet of our cabana, which had its own private bathroom and a nice little covered porch. It was rustic, but peaceful, positioned on a pier over the ocean. The island didn’t have a beach near our cabana. The breeze was perfect the entire time and we had no concerns with insects. We took along bug spray but never took the can out of our bag. Our bathroom plumbing flowed directly into the ocean and the shower was a mere cold trickle. There were no towels, soap, or toiletries provided. We were thankful we had the foresight to bring our own. There were no outlets. The lights were from a solar cell, and we had USB ports to charge our phones. We had cell service, but no wi-fi.  There was time for a nap before dinner. We met our host, Elias, for the first time late in the afternoon. He came around to make sure we were comfortable and brought a beautiful hand-crafted mola which his wife had made for us. She had fashioned it after the cover from my book. I got a picture of Jen and Elias proudly displaying the book and the mola.

Elias and Jen display the mola and book
Another view of our cabana
A view of our cabana from outside
The cabanas at Corbiski as we approach from the water

Dinner was served around 7:00 p.m. The cook prepared us each a beautiful lobster.

Lobster served with yucca and cabbage slaw

During dinner, we had a perfect opportunity to get acquainted with our fellow adventurers. The other three people, whom we had spent the day, were in the cabana next to ours. They were on an adventure from Lima, Peru. One of them was celebrating her birthday, too. She and I shared a birthday and the five of us had a great time getting to know one another over a great meal. All three of them spoke near perfect English, although they were slightly self-conscience of their ability. They became comfortable chatting with us. They were only there for one night.

Our new friends from Peru and Elias

When we woke the next morning, we went to the dining area and found coffee and breakfast waiting for us. The girls joined us for breakfast, then we boarded the boat for more island adventures. The five of us were treated to two more islands, each better than the previous. We had lunch on a tiny island that actually had chairs on the beach. Jen and I didn’t realize how nice it is to have a chair until there weren’t any.

Our second day lunch was chicken with patacones and salad
Jen enjoys a chair on the beach
Another of the beautiful beaches we visited

To most people, throwing a towel down on the sand is fine. To us, being a little further from the sand is good. That last beach was the hardest to leave, even though we were wrinkled from swimming and over-exposed to the sun. By mid-afternoon, it was time to take our new friends from Peru to meet their boat back to the dock. When we parted, they made sure we had their contact information. They invited us to Peru to explore their beautiful country.

Our new friends from Peru sharing lunch with us before their departure

After we dropped the girls at their transfer point, we had the option to visit another island, which we declined. That quiet little porch of our cabana was calling us home. Our guides took us to the dock, and we went to rest from our adventure. The place was buzzing with a mission group of teens from Connecticut. They were bunking in the other cabanas. The group is led by Mike Evans who operates a 501(c)3 to bring basketball to underprivileged areas worldwide. His mission is called Full Court Peace. I have linked his website below if this is something you want to read more about. I was deeply touched by what they were there to do. Before dark, they had set up a volleyball net on the site of the future basketball court and had the kids in the village involved in a game.

A little time for volleyball before dark
After we left the group assembled the basketball goals and had a basketball clinic for the locals

Elias gave us a tour of his school; however, the students were gone for the day. He also showed us his water project. The village operates entirely on water captured from rain and stored in a huge bladder. No wonder the shower is only a trickle. We enjoyed dinner with Mike and the boys before retiring to our cabana.

The water storage for the village

On Thursday morning we had a nice breakfast with our new friends from Connecticut before departing for home. I am continuing to get pictures of their project and other pictures from Elias and the school. In one respect, the time there was much too short, and, in another, it wasn’t. I would love to have stayed behind to help build the basketball court and see the school in action, but, truthfully, Jen and I were exhausted and had gotten too much of the beautiful sun.

Another view of Corbiski as we depart

We aren’t accustomed to primitive accommodations and were ready for our own bed and shower. The other cause of extreme exhaustion is emotional. I was emotionally drained from the extreme poverty and living conditions of these beautiful people. There is so much they need and so many ways to help that my mind was running on overload.

Volleyball spectators
Some children from the village
Children gathering outside the school

I needed time to get my mind wrapped around how to write this. I would like to suggest ways to help with Elias’s school and water project. I would like to recommend that if this is something that interests you, contact Elias and book a tour. Day trips are available as are multiple day adventures. I would suggest, based on our experience, that one day is enough. If you are a compassionate giver, take school supplies, give generous tips to the people providing service, and offer a contribution to Elias to help with their water project and school. They will offer beautiful hand-made molas which are great souvenirs of your time there. We bought three which we’re having made into throw pillows.

The molas we purchased will make beautiful throw pillows for the sofa

I’ve seen people frame them, fashion them into handbags, or make beach bags from them. The Kuna women use this technique to make their colorful dresses. Jen and I have been supporters of the school there. When Elias presented us with the beautiful mola, which his wife made, we knew this very special gift would be framed.

Our framed Mola

The experience gave me a renewed respect for conservation. The people in these native communities get by with such a small fraction of the resources which we are accustomed to having. I felt bad having an unneeded light on, not finishing my plate, or taking an unnecessary shower. Thoughts of having to do without soap, shampoo, or deodorant horrifies me.

The cost of our adventure was all-inclusive. It covered accommodations and all of our meals. We bought some extra beverages on the islands where we visited, purchased those beautiful molas, and tipped our guides. There were otherwise no hidden costs. It would be wise, if you visit, to carry along a gallon of drinking water. Elias provided us with a bottle when we arrived. The others visiting brought along their own.

References from our visit to San Blas:

Joey Bonura Blog

More about the Kuna-Yala

Elias Perez Kuna-Yala Expeditions

Mike Evans Full Court Peace

Internet Photo

Two weeks following our adventure in San Blas, we took a whale watching excursion with our friends, Mike and Diane. The whale watching season runs from June to November. There are multiple excursions available. We opted for a catamaran hosted by Sea Las Perlas.

In the Panamanian Pacific waters, it’s possible to observe numerous families of humpback whales, who cross the warm waters of Panama’s coasts during their annual migratory journey from Antarctica. During their migration, the entire Panamanian coastline and especially the famous archipelago of Las Perlas (The Pearl Islands), have become the tourist destinations most frequented by travelers who want to witness this extraordinary spectacle of nature.

Our adventure started the day before with our drive to the Amador Causeway, where we checked into the Beachhouse Hotel. It’s a boutique bed and breakfast situated only five minutes from the Isla Flamenco Port where our excursion would begin. This was important as we were required to check in at 6:45 a.m. for the 7:30 a.m. departure.

Check-in
Our comfortable room
The Beachhouse Hotel
Our walk down the causeway

We settled into our rooms and wandered the causeway for a while before taking an Uber to dinner in Panama City. We enjoyed a delightful meal at Casa Alejandro, which is right off Avenida Balboa in downtown.

I woke early to capture some great pictures of the sunrise over Panama City from our balcony.

Sunrise over Panama City

After enjoying the beautiful sunrise, we checked out of our hotel rooms, packed the car, and drove to the dock. Check-in for our excursion was easy and we joined about 35 others on the boat. It was comfortable and there was a guide who was bi-lingual. He gave us a great description of what we could expect. We chose seats inside, which was air conditioned. There was also seating outside at the rear of the boat. Restroom facilities were available aboard the craft.

There has been extreme interest in the magnificent new cruise port being built on the east side of the Amador Causeway at the south end of the Panama Canal. Norwegian Cruise Line is already sailing from the new port, with many other cruise companies preparing to welcome people aboard from this strategic new location. This will position Panama to be one of the premier locations to catch or disembark a cruise. This is a huge feather in the cap of the Minister of Tourism, who had the vision to support this project. I captured the picture below as we left port.

The new cruise facility

There’s never a guarantee that you’ll see whales, but our experienced captain and guide didn’t fail us. About halfway into our journey to Isla Bolaños we happened upon a school of dolphins who gave us quite a show. They surrounded the boat as if we were there to entertain them. Little did they know that we were the ones being entertained.

Dolphins
Dolphins

As we continued on, we began seeing whale after whale. I suspect that we saw well over a dozen before reaching the island. The mama whales were very protective of their young and getting great pictures was nearly impossible. This is a unique experience in life that can’t be missed. The captain was always preserving safety and keeping a respectful attitude towards nature. Despite all of that, we were at times much closer to the largest mammals in the world than it appears in my photos.

I never mentioned earlier that the weather was near perfect when we left Panama City. It, however, began to change as we neared the Pearl Islands. It’s rainy season here and we’ve grown to expect anything. We made landfall on Isla Bolaños at the Sonny Island Resort around 11:00 a.m. It was there where we enjoyed lunch while it rained. The rain continued, making it difficult to enjoy the beaches of the beautiful little island resort. It did subside periodically, and we explored long enough to get some great pictures. This resort is off the grid and a favorite of people who want to disconnect for a day or more. There were cabanas and tents available for overnight guests. Power was supplied by a huge field of solar panels positioned in the middle of the compound. Restrooms and showers were available. This island happens to be the first on Joey Bonura’s 14 islands you must see while visiting Panama.

Isla Bolaños
We made landfall on Isla Bolaños at Sonny Island Resort
The tent experience
Sonny Island Resort Bahia
The Beach Bar at Sonny Island Resort
Magnificent beach
Our boat is parked way out there. We’re going to get wet on the panga back.

With rain coming down in sheets, we got soaked on the small boat which returned us to the catamaran. We didn’t hold out much hope for seeing more whales on the return trip but were pleasantly surprised.  We not only saw more whales, but we also had sufficient time to dry out before arriving back at the dock around 5:00 p.m.

Sea Las Perlas

Sonny Island Resort

In August, we explored two of the 14 islands Joey Bonura says you must see in Panama. In the opening paragraph, I alluded to the fact that I could almost own his list. It looks like we’re halfway through it. In addition to San Blas and Isla Bolaños, which I covered here, Jen and I have explored several of the others Joey talked about. I blogged about them in previous posts. If you’re interested in our experience and haven’t read the previous posts, I have linked them below.

Bocas Del Toro

Boca Chica

Isla Mamey / Isla Grande

Contadora

My blog posts are coming along more infrequently than in the past. I blame this in part to how busy we’ve become in retirement and, in part, to my weekly newsletter. I also blame it on the fact that I’ve been working on the manuscript for a mystery fiction book. The book is not yet named, although the rough draft is complete. Some days it’s difficult to put my butt in the chair and write. We’ll keep adventuring and share our experiences as long as there’s interest. Please sign up to receive the newsletter if you haven’t already. I publish it every Monday morning. Both the blog and the newsletter are free, and we never share your information. If you haven’t signed up to get the blog posts, the sign up is on the right margin. I seem to be blogging about 10 times per year.

Jen and I are going to Columbia in a few weeks. You can expect to see a fresh blog post when we return from there.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

A Full Month of Adventures

Jen and I started our month of adventures on January 23 when we went to Panama City to prepare for a short visit to Florida.  We are fully vaccinated and not required to test for covid when we travel TO Panama, but when we travel to the United States, even though we are citizens, a negative covid test is required.  I am going to climb on my soap box for one brief moment, and then I will continue the story. The United States hardly requires masks, and the infection rate is under control enough for the President to repeal mask mandates at the White House.  However, citizens traveling from a foreign country to the US must get a negative covid test to go home after a vacation or to visit friends and family there.  We got our negative covid test and, as resident Jubilado’s, paid $30 USD each with our discount.  Travelers without this benefit must pay $50 USD each, adding to the cost of travel.  I believe that this is governmental overreach.  Immigrants crossing the southern border are not tested and are allowed to board buses and flights all over the country, but as a tax-paying US Citizen, I must provide a negative test to go home.  It is time to stand up to the tyranny of the government on this matter. These useless requirements should be removed.

We got our negative test at the airport which is required to be taken the day before travel. This cleared us to travel to our 2nd home in Florida on a flight the next day.  Our winter guests in our condo were to arrive on February 1st, and we wanted to make sure everything was perfect for their arrival.

We got our negative test.

On Monday we boarded our flight to Florida.  While in Florida we visited Jen’s brother, Bill, and his wife, Deb.  They were snow-birding in Fort Myers, and it provided an excellent time to catch up with them.  They treated us to a great meal at one of their favorite restaurants.  In the morning, we all went over to a great outlet mall near their place, and I managed to buy a jacket and a couple of new shirts.  Note to self…even in Florida a jacket will be necessary during the winter months. We had a delightful visit at their vacation condo, before continuing on to our place in Port Charlotte.

Mom and Rich had been staying in our condo since the end of November.  It was a great time to be sure all the kinks were worked out.  There were a few small mechanical issues that they were able to take care of for us before we arrived.  One other issue required that we replace the washer and dryer before our guest’s arrival.  With the nationwide logistics crisis, this was easier said than done.  But we persevered and on Saturday, the new laundry pair was delivered.  This gave mom time to do their laundry before traveling to Panama.  We also had time to get all the sheets and towels washed before leaving, getting the condo in tip top shape for our winter visitors.

In addition to dealing with a few small problems, we were able to do some other visiting before turning our condo over on February 1st.

Lime Tequila in Port Charlotte is our favorite when we are there

The main reason we wanted to be in Florida at the end of January was to bring Mom and Rich back to Panama.  They had been reluctant to travel to Panama because of the language barrier, and they had rarely been outside of the United States.  On Tuesday February 1st the four of us boarded our flight in Miami for our non-stop flight to Tocumen International Airport in Panama City, Panama.

Loaded and awaiting departure

Our arrival in Panama was late evening, and I choose not to drive after dark when possible.  We had reservations at the Riande Hotel near the airport. This is where Jen and I had stayed prior to our departure for Florida, and they allowed us to park in their secure lot for about $5 USD per day.  This detail is for those of you who may be looking for similar options in your travel to and from Panama.  We stayed the night, had a nice breakfast, and found the car just as I left it.  We loaded up the next day, and began our journey to Coronado.

Our journey took us past Casa de Jamon and Price Smart.  We made brief stops at both.  Casa de Jamon is a great restaurant supply-type food store in Costa Del Este.  We picked up a few groceries there and went on to Price Smart for a few other things.  Then it was on to our home in Coronado.

We arrived in Coronado mid-afternoon, and our special guests were able to settle in and relax in preparation for their full month of adventure.  Our dinner plan took us to Gold Coast Brewery for half price wing night.  There they met a few of our friends, and we enjoyed the wings.

I do not know where to begin other than to take the whole month in chronological order.  That first partial week, we relaxed by the pool, took the buggy to the beach for some sand play, Rich got a haircut, and Mom and Jen got pedicures.  Thursday is our weekly domino game. Mom and Rich joined us each week during their visit.   Throughout Covid, Jen and I got together with the same small group of friends for this weekly event, and it has continued.  Everyone agrees that it was one of the things that helped us all maintain our sanity during the lockdowns and other measures imposed by MINSA to keep everyone safe from the virus.

Low tide. We explored a great stretch of beach
Pool time
Saturday morning at the club pool
Mom got a beach excursion too

My favorite barber gave Rich a trim.

The other constant during their visit was Sunday worship at Coronado Bible Church.  Each week we had brunch after church with many of our awesome friends.  Our special guests enjoyed the church, brunches, and meeting a few of our friends each week.  They were slowly beginning to understand why we love our life here in Panama.  Mom loved that I was an active participant in the praise team at church.

Our first adventure outside our little community was to El Valle de Anton.  We included good friends Diane and Mike for a full day of exploring up there.  El Valle has been a favorite of all of our visitors, with those who have had repeated visits always wanting to return.  There are so many places there that we had a difficult time choosing which to explore.  That day we took them to the Orchid Sanctuary, The Butterfly House, El Macho Falls, and the Sunday Market.  We were disappointed that our favorite restaurant was closed.  This gave us a chance to try another place that just did not meet our high standards.  The market gave me a chance to grab some fresh vegetables while everyone else shopped the vendors.  El Valle is a short 45-minute drive from Coronado straight up the mountain.  The entire village lies in the crater of a volcano.  The climate is a bit cooler than the beach communities, and many expats live there.  Check out my book or the archives of this blog to learn more about this magnificent place.

Ready for adventures

El Macho Falls. We couldn’t get them to zip-line it.

The bookstore, El Hombre de La Mancha, had requested more books which I was able to bring back from the States.  The second Thursday our guests were here we went back into the city to make the delivery.  This was a big highlight for me as, when we arrived, they asked me for an interview and photo session.  They are promoting my book on their social media, and it appears that it is selling well in their stores.  The delivery allowed them to stock it in every store nationwide.  We were surprised to find it among the Panama Travel and History books despite the fact that it is only offered in English.  People who have looked for it in the English section have been unable to find it in the stores.  The price for it here in their stores is higher, but the bookstore is a huge advocate for literacy in Panama.  That makes my day to feel like I am doing some small part for literacy here.

Mom found it in the main store in San Francisco

Karen Ceballos, Director of Marketing at El Hombre de La Mancha

After leaving the bookstore we were able to take Mom and Rich for lunch at one of our favorite restaurants in the city, Michael’s.  Mike Nikolich is the owner, and his place is a very successful for breakfast and lunch. He is a native of Michigan and has spent years in the restaurant business in Panama.  Following lunch, we went down to Panama Viejo.  This is the original ruins of the first Panama City.  It was the first port where goods entered the country and were transported over land to the Caribbean for shipment to the America’s, Europe, and Spain.  This gave our guests a perspective of what Panama was like before the canal was constructed.  This location was repeatedly attacked by pirates who were after the precious gold and silver from South America.  The city was later relocated to what is now called Casco Viejo (old town), where they could more easily protect it.

Mike Nikolich grabbed a copy of my book.
Mom and Rich in front of the tower at Panama Viejo

The following week we caught up with our good friend, and the master of tour guides, Marc Vargas, to take an adventure to the Caribbean side of the country.  Marc picked us up and took us for a look at the Agua Clara Lock on the Caribbean end of the canal.  Agua Clara is the new lock designed to accommodate the huge Pana Max ships.  This gave Rich a firsthand look at how the canal works.  Marc took us from there to the Gatun Locks just adjacent to the Agua Clara lock.  The visitor center there is closed, but we were able to see a cruise ship passing through over the hill.  He continued on down to the Gatun Dam where the Chagres River is dammed to provide water to Lake Gatun which is a huge part of the canal passage.  We went from there across the new Atlantic Bridge.  I call this the bridge to nowhere because, when it was completed, the road leading away from it on the west side of the canal was dirt.  It is now paved and leads to Fort Sherman, Shelter Bay and Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  We visited all three.  The road is now nicely paved right through the jungle to the ruins at San Lorenzo.  It is also paved all the way north to Shelter Bay.   Fort Sherman has been mostly deserted since the United States turned the canal over to the Panamanian people.  Shelter Bay remains a prosperous marina which is protected from hurricanes.  After lunch at the marina, we went through the jungle to Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  This was a wonderful experience.  The Fort is under full restoration to maintain its UNESCO World Heritage designation.  I cannot wait to visit again after the restoration is completed.  Despite the construction going on, this is a beautiful tour.  The Fort sits at the mouth of the Chagres River high on a bluff where it was easily protected from the pirates.  Thank you, Marc, for showing us a great time.

Marc gives us a little detail on the new Agua Clara Lock
The Gatun Dam
A cruise ship passing through the Gatun Locks
How about lunch at Shelter Bay?

This Coate’ came to see where we were going
There was a major restoration in progress at San Lorenzo Castle

Fort San Lorenzo Castle sits at the mouth of the Chagres River
Marc checks out the heavy artillery
Fort Sherman is in ruins…no need to stop here
The Atlantic Bridge

Every week during their visit we went to the club at Coronado Luxury Club & Suites.  Jen and I are members, and we enjoy the entertainment on Saturday nights.  That first week we enjoyed a comedian in the Sports Bar followed by Pascal Turner at the pool bar.  We especially enjoy Pascal, and, fortunately, he played every Saturday night during their visit with us.  Pascal often invites me to sing with him and it has become something for which I look forward.  The third Saturday we took our special guests to the fine dining restaurant at the club, Secundo Piso.  We invited friends John and Barbie to join us.  This was a special treat, and it is one of the places which we highly recommend.  Reservations are required and they are only open on weekends.  In the past, non-members have been welcomed at the resort on Saturday night.

Mom and Rich take the opportunity to dance
We did too
John and Barbie got in a little Salsa

Also, that last week in Coronado Mom and Rich spent three nights at the resort hotel to give us all a break from each other.  Jen and I get free nights every year with our paid membership, and we wanted them to have a special treat.  They hung out by the resort pool and got waited on.  Rich wanted to order foo foo drinks with fruit and little umbrellas.  I wish we had pictures of that.  During one of those days at the resort, we got together for a special late lunch at the Beach Club.  The Beach Club is reserved for members and resort guests.  We had a nice lunch and missed the last shuttle back.  I wish they had let us know that it would be the last, but we were hardly done eating when it came.  The staff sent us back on the employee bus.  Someone suggested that we just stay and sleep on the beach.  That was not an option…LOL.

A bird’s eye view of the beach at the club
Mom and Rich at the Beach Club

Almost every Tuesday we ventured to the movie.  The local theater, Cine Moderno, plays movies in English every Tuesday, and it is a favorite way to spend Tuesday evening in the community.  We always meet up with many friends there and enjoy the show.  For Jubilado’s (retired people), the movie plays for $2.50 USD each.  They have great refreshments also at a reasonable price. I put the movie schedule in my newsletter every week, but recently they have added more shows in English on other days.  I cannot always put all the shows and times, so check with the theater for additional showtimes.  Rich said he had not been to the movies in years, and both he and mom thoroughly enjoyed this activity…even if the movie was not always something we would normally go out of our way to see.

We ventured to Santa Clara to another of our favorite places on the beach, Deliciosa Del Mar.  We invited friends, Lorin and Judy, along for what we hoped would be a lobster feast.  Judy gets the credit for the magnificent sunset photo in the featured position above. Unfortunately, we missed the beginning of Lobster season by a few weeks.  We all still had some great fresh seafood before venturing onto the beach.  Everyone had a great time people watching and swimming in the ocean.  This little restaurant has palapas on the beach where you can eat or have drinks.  They rent them to people who do not order from them, but they are free to patrons.  We all had a great time.

Yes, we got in a swim
Mom and Rich hanging out in the palapa
Lorin and Judy walking the beach
Mom and Rich wade in

That last Friday night in Coronado we caught up with Mike and Diane for a great dinner at Café Med. We always seem to get a great meal there and this visit was no exception.

The ambience at Café Med is stunning

To cap off our month of adventures with Mom and Rich, we went from Coronado to Panama City at the beginning of Carnival traffic.  Travel into the city can be a challenge during Carnival.  We soon encountered the lane inversion and we were sharing our side of the highway with traffic heading to the beaches.  This was not horrible, but it slowed down our journey.  We anticipated travel challenge, so we wanted to have plenty of time to get them near the airport for their journey home on March 1st.  This gave us a couple of days to adventure in the city.

The lane inversion

When we crossed the Bridge of the Americas, the decision was made to check out the Amador Causeway and go to the Biodiversity Museum.  This is something that all of our past visitors have enjoyed, and we knew that Mom and Rich would love the experience as well.  We were not wrong.  The Biodiversity Museum is something that no visitor to Panama should miss.  We went down the causeway for lunch and some souvenir shopping, followed by our visit to the museum.  After the museum, we checked into our hotel at the Radisson Panama Canal.

Check out the huge Fig Tree
Panama City skyline from Amador Causeway Love the new Sombreros!
See the Biodiversity Museum over Rich’s shoulder?

Even after almost four years living in Panama, I look for new adventures when we have company.  Sometimes the new adventures are a giant failure, but this one was a definite high and one of the best experiences for myself.  On Saturday evening we ventured to the JW Marriott (former Trump Tower) for a ringside seat on the 66th floor for sunset.  The pool bar is owned by the casino and only accessible through the casino.  The elevator will only stop at the parking garage or the 66th floor unless someone has a key to stop elsewhere.  When we exited the elevator, we were welcomed into an amazing outside venue with an infinity pool, and our reserved table was waiting for us next to the pool.  The views of the city and sunset were unbelievable.  We enjoyed a light dinner (pub food) and drinks while we watched the sunset.  This will be another of those experiences that we share with others.  If you get the chance, do not miss this one.

The following morning, we were whisked away by shuttle to a boat dock in the middle of the Gamboa Rain Forest where we caught our boat.  It is definitely a small world when every one else on the tour bus is from the Grand Rapids, Michigan area, really close to where mom and Rich live!  The Pacific Queen took us on a partial transit of the Panama Canal.  Rich was so intrigued by the canal that we could not deny him this experience.  When we departed the dock, we had a few drops of rain which quickly subsided.  Our boat went south on the Panama Canal as the guide told us interesting facts about what we were seeing.  We traveled past a Pana Max ship, the largest of container ships.  We would see this ship later passing through the big new lock at Miraflora while we were passing through the smaller locks.  We passed the prison where Noriega spent the last years of his life, and several big dredging cranes.  The Gaillard Cut, which was formally known as the Culebra Cut, is where most of the lives were lost in the construction of the canal.  It is the narrow mountain pass taking the canal through the Continental Divide.  This stretch of the canal requires constant maintenance due to the mud slides and silt accumulating in its bottom.  This is where the canal authority spends the majority of its maintenance budget.

The prison where Noriega was incarcerated
Titan, the biggest crane on the canal
This is a large Pana Max ship. We passed it after entering the canal from the dock in Gamboa
Our transit vessel, The Pacific Queen

We continued through the cut and past the Centennial Bridge before reaching the Pedro Miguel Lock. We moved into the lock which we shared on this journey with another tour boat, a small cargo vessel, and a larger ship.  We were lowered in the lock to the level of Mira Flores Lake.  Mira Flores Lake is a manmade lake connecting the Pedro Miguel lock with the Mira Flores Locks.  Once across the small lake, we entered the Mira Flores locks once again sharing with the other three vessels. Mira Flores has two locks taking us down to sea level.  After passing through all three locks, we moved on toward the Pacific and our destination port.  We passed under the Bridge of the Americas, then past our hotel and the Amador Causeway before rounding the point and making dock at the Port of Panama.  The total time of our excursion was right around 5 hours.  Previously, Jen and I did a full passage which took around 12 hours.  The partial passage was much better, as the full passage took several hours crossing Lake Gatun.

A small cargo vessel entering the lock at Pedro Miguel ahead of us
The Welcome Center at the Mira Flores Locks.
The Centennial Bridge. See the Gaillard Cut (part of it) as we approach.
This is the 1st lock at Mira Flores. You can see the last lock ahead of us.
While going through the locks we were next to this other tour boat.
Moving out from the locks toward the Pacific
Every vessel has a pilot from the canal authority during transit. This is our pilot departing the vessel.
Welcome to Port Panama

Our day was not over.  We went back to the hotel for a minute, and Marc Vargas picked us up for a little tour of Casco Viejo.  We wanted to have another sunset experience from a rooftop in Casco.  Marc selected Tantalo, where we had a bite to eat and watched the sunset from a different perspective.  Marc graciously showed us around a little, and we took in the amazing sites of Casco Viejo.  This is one of those places that really requires an entire day.  If you are fortunate enough to get to this neighborhood, check out the many plazas, the churches, The Panama Canal Museum (among others), the artisan vendors, architecture, restaurants, coffee shops, chocolatiers, souvenir shops, and do not miss the rooftop bars.

A short walk through Casco Viejo
Cool picture…Thanks, Marc
Bring on the food and drinks
the main Cathedral of Panama
Another cool picture. This is a panorama before the sun began setting.

On their last day in Panama, we mostly just rested from exhaustion.  We relocated to a hotel near the airport, got covid tests, and shopped in a mall nearby.  Jen and I are still recovering here, and I imagine that mom and Rich are doing the same in Florida.

Our visitors waiting to be tested with their capable translator
El Hombre de La Mancha at the Metro Mall
They had it in stock

For more information about adventuring in Panama, grab a copy of my book 2 Retire In Panama?.  It is available at Amazon, on Kindle (Kindle Unlimited Readers get it free), and at El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores in Panama.  I am sharing some links below for some of the adventures and sites that contributed to this great month of adventures with my folks.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Casa del Jamon

Coronado Bible Church

Coronado Luxury Club & Suites

2 Retire In Panama?

Tantalo

Panama Canal Tour

El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores

Gold Coast Brewery

Marc Vargas

Biodiversity Museum

Pascal Turner

El Valle de Anton

Panama Viejo

Cine Moderno Coronado

Casco Viejo

Café Med

The Countdown Continues T -21 days to Departure

As we prepare to depart for our 9 week adventure in Panama our posts have been few and far between. Thanks for continuing to follow along. It seems like a great time to catch up and recap our preparation. Our immigration attorney has all but one document and we will be getting the apostle on Jen’s pension document and submit it on Friday. She officially retired at the end of the year, and since we have been going full blast on preparation for departure. We have confirmed our reservations for accommodations and rental car. We have also confirmed transportation in Panama City to meet with the attorney and complete the immigration process. Our first several days will be spent in Panama City where we will be staying at Central Park Hotel. We are waiting until we are on the ground in Panama to begin officially making recommendations. Central Park was among one of many places we chose from as a landing pad in Panama City. We chose it based on price and it’s reviews on the internet. It got mixed reviews…we will see how it works out. We take possession of the condo in Coronado on February 3, but it is a bit too far to commute into the city for completion of the visa process. We will also pick up our rent car on that day, but have a bit of anxiety driving in the city.

During our down time in Panama City Jen and I are planning a few adventures. We were intrigued on our previous visit to Panama with the Biodiversity Museum, and plan a visit there.

Bio-Diversity Institute Museum
Bio-Diversity Institue Museum

The Panama Museum of Biodiversity Puente de Vida (“Bridge of Life”) is a portal to the richest and most diverse ecosphere on earth. It was designed by internationally renowned architect, Frank Gehry. It is located at the end of the Amador Causeway in Panama City, facing the Pacific Ocean at the entrance of the Panama Canal. The museum inspires as it educates about biodiversity – a complex but essential vision of life that is both a leading-edge scientific theory and a tool to protect our most precious ecological resources.

We are also planning to visit many of the fine restaurants in the city. The World Travel Guide says we won’t go hungry in Panama City. The Central American hub is a rising culinary star, with a varied food scene including some fabulous North-American, Italian and Middle-Eastern options as well as plenty of Latin specialties. The restaurants favoring Panamanian-style cuisine are dominated by wonderfully fresh seafood. A number of elegant, gastronomic ventures can also be found here.

We are also planning to visit Old City Panama, which is also known as Casco Viejo (Spanish for Old Quarter), Casco Antiguo or San Felipe. Casco Viejo is the historic district of the city. It was settled in 1673 and built following the nearly total destruction of the original Panama City. Panama Viejo was destroyed by a pirate attack. It was designated a World Heritage Site in 1997. We will likely take a walking tour of this vibrant and colorful neighborhood where restoration is fully under way. Restored modern restaurants and hotels lie side by side with incredible crumbling ruins of the old city. This neighborhood of Panama City offers great nightlife, ocean views and city bay views.

We are sure to find many other adventures while in Panama City. Stay dialed in to our blog for our first hand experiences.

Our Spanish lesson for today is Casco Viejo which is Spanish for old quarter. Also, Puente de Vida which is bridge of life. Yes, we are sneaking in the Spanish lessons every time we write.

Jen and I are humbled and honored by the way this blog is being received. Today we reached another milestone of 1500 visits to our site. That does not include all of you who are getting this by Facebook, Tumbler and the other social media outlets. Thank-you, again, for following. We remain excited about our upcoming visit to Panama.