Our Year in Review 2024

Without a doubt, 2024 was our biggest adventure year of retirement. We visited over seventeen different countries and saw some amazing sights. We celebrated a monumental birthday with my mom in Florida. I attended a writer’s conference in Greece with bestselling authors Jonas Saul and CC Humphries. We cruised on three ships to visit the Greek Isles, almost the entire perimeter of South America, including the Strait of Magellan (Cape Horn), and revisited the Caribbean. If I don’t yet have your attention, read on. I will share some amazing adventures and slip in a few incredible pictures.

In February, my sister Melinda, her husband Hunter, Jen, and I, along with our three daughters, their spouses, and grandchildren, gathered in Fort Myers, Florida, for a surprise party to celebrate our mom’s birthday. I wanted to share a few pictures from the party. It’s not often that a surprise of this magnitude can be executed with such precision. Great Job, Melinda.

In March, Jen and I flew to Santiago, Chile, for a great South American adventure. Our detailed blog post about the trip is in the blog archives. We explored Santiago and some of the Chilian interior before boarding the Norwegian Star to sail the coast of South America for 24 days. Our journey ended in Rio de Janeiro. When blogging our year in review, I never intended to repost what I’ve already posted. If you missed the South America Adventure, I hope you will click the link here or on the sidebar.

The Norwegian Star

In May, we celebrated Jen’s birthday and entry into the American Social Security system. Our good, life-long friends from Michigan came to Panama to help celebrate. The week was full of local adventure and celebration.

We enjoyed a special six-course dinner hosted by Chef Aristoteles at Nazca 21. One of our favorite entertainers, Pascal Turner, entertained us while course after course was delivered to the table.

One of the places that our visitors always ask to visit is Valle de Anton. It’s always a place where repeat visitors want to return. We explored the Sunday Market and The Museo del Valle de Anton before having brunch at the Golden Frog. The restaurant is off the beaten path, but the food is good, and our server spoke English. Our guests enjoyed the delightful patio atmosphere.

We certainly took our guests to the beach and pool while they were here. They asked for relaxation over adventure, which was fine with us.

Our visit wrapped up with a day of adventure in Panama City. We journeyed to Casco Viejo, where we toured St. Joseph Church (The Golden Altar Church), the Panama Canal Museum, the Mola Museum, and the I Love Panama Chocolate Company. We wrapped up the last day with a visit to the Panaviera at the top of the Trump Tower (J.W. Marriott). We had a delightful meal there while the sun set on our visitors’ final day of adventure.

The five of us enjoying the sunset

A few days after our Michigan friends left, we welcomed our oldest granddaughter to Panama. Jen and I have decided to have each of the grandchildren to Panama just before their senior year of high school. The time we spent with Victoria was special for all of us. We adventured and explored every minute of the ten-day visit. If you missed the blog post about Victoria’s visit in June, I hope you will click the link here, Victoria’s Panama Adventure, or on the sidebar to check it out. We are proud of Victoria’s accomplishments. She has chosen to continue her education at the University of Alabama, Birmingham. She was accepted and offered substantial scholarships. Congratulations kiddo.

Exploring the Amador Causeway

In early September, we went whale watching with eight friends in a panga on the Gulf of Chiriqui. We all agreed that it was the best whale-watching trip we had taken. Our guide, Captain Jay, had the whales figured out perfectly. There were times when we had whales in all directions. Our hosts at El Regalo Resort booked our tour and hosted us in delightful rooms. The resort has five suites, and we occupied the entire place. Jenni and Carroll have made their place the best of the best in Boca Chica. They have a chef who never disappoints. Our breakfasts and dinners were perfectly prepared, and the bartender kept the drinks flowing while we swam in the beautiful pool. I am sharing a gallery of great pictures from our adventure below.  Adventuring in Panama never gets old, especially with good friends.

By the middle of September, we returned to the skies for the pinnacle of our 2024 travel.  We flew from Panama to Miami for an overnight layover. Then, we traveled to London, where we met some friends, Joanne and Kirk. They took us for the best fish and chips and gave us an all-star tour of London before returning us to the airport for our flight to Athens.

We left London on a late flight to Athens, Greece. We arrived in Greece, transferred to the port, and caught a ferry to the island of Amorgos. On the third day since leaving Panama, we arrived at the Lakki Village Resort by midafternoon. It was a long day of travel and time zone jumping. I don’t know if it was adrenaline or excitement, but jet lag never caught up with us. We got plenty of sleep on the transportation and layovers.

Amorgos was the site of my writing retreat with Chris (CC) Humphries and Jonas Saul. It was amazing. After we arrived and unpacked, there was time to explore the resort. Our entire writer’s group gathered for a beautiful welcome dinner. After dinner, there was time to get better acquainted poolside with the facilitators and attendees anxious to discuss writing.

At the first morning session, we introduced ourselves and discussed what we were writing and what we were looking for from the retreat. The guest authors discussed the industry and offered clarity on direction. I had face time with all of the great authors at the retreat. Jen and I had lunch with Chris Humphreys and his significant other, Kat.

Jen and I with Chris and Kat

The second-day program was The Mountain: Beginning the Novel and Finishing It! Award-winning historical, crime, and fantasy novelist Chris (CC) Humphreys revealed some of his secrets of successful writing. Chris broke the writing journey into stages and guided us through each stage using a blend of anecdotal examples. Later in the afternoon, we gathered for a writing exercise.

On the third day, we discussed the discipline of creating the novel, how much emotion should be on the page, and how to place the tension in the right spots to keep readers turning the pages. We discussed setting up the book to be psychologically pleasing to the reader, leaving them with the emotional experience readers read for. Reading is an emotional journey, so make them feel it, and they’ll love you for it and tell all their friends about you (your book). After our session, we walked together to the village for lunch at an amazing local place. We gathered for drinks and casual discussion in the late afternoon before our evening meal.

On the fourth day, we learned to write a good fight scene that entertains while advancing the plot and revealing the character. How characters fight can reveal as much about them as how they make love. A good author must chance to delve into the dark side to broaden and deepen their characters and plot. Fight and sex scenes are a huge opportunity for any writer to confirm a suspicion or to startle with a revelation. A “character in peril” keeps the pages turning.

Later in the afternoon, we toured the 11th-century monastery of Agia Anna and the white village of Chora.

On our last day of workshops, we discussed promotion outside social media. Chris Humphreys and Jonas Saul demonstrated how to get our work in front of readers through proven results. This concluded the educational portion of our week. I met with Jonas Saul and enjoyed an awesome one-on-one lunch meeting. He shared his thoughts with me on a sample from the rough draft of Mayhem in Eagle Cove, the second of the Detective Larry series. His kind words about my upcoming novel were informative and inspirational. It was clear that this workshop would be a turning point in my writing experience. Exciting things will happen over the next few months as I finish the draft and send it to the editor. By the way, Mr. Saul has agreed to edit the upcoming book.

After lunch, we gathered for a village hike. Jonas led the three-hour hike from the ancient village of Lagada to Tholaria and back to the hotel. The gallery of photos below is a few from the hike. In one village, we stopped at Jonas’s home, where he unselfishly invited us in to see where he and Rania write and live during the high season on Amorgos. We were back in time for pre-dinner drinks. I’ve talked very little about the food at the resort. We gathered as a group each night and enjoyed a family-style Greek meal. Every day of the retreat was filled with information and encouragement that drove each attendee to be their best. We all came from different countries and backgrounds and wrote different genres, but the ability to feed off the knowledge of one another was as wonderful as the learning portions of our time there.

With the retreat ended, we left the resort at 4:45 a.m. for a ferry departure at 5:45. The ferry took us to Athens, where our driver picked us up and took us to our hotel, Attalos. After unpacking and settling into the hotel, we toured the Acropolis Museum.

Sunday at 11:00 a.m. we saw the changing of the guards at Syntagma Square. This is considered the best time to see this happen, and we had a great spot to view it.

Later in the evening, we toured Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon at sunset and got some great pictures.

We arranged to explore the ruins of ancient Corinth and the Corinth Canal the following day. We enjoyed a scenic drive from Athens to Corinth along the shores of the Saronic Gulf. The journey took us past beautiful beaches and the spectacularly narrow Corinth Canal, built to link the Saronic and Corinth Gulfs during the 1890s. Like the Panama Canal, it required several attempts before finally being completed. First proposed in the third century B.C. it wasn’t completed until 1893. In stark contrast, it is sea-level with no locks, narrow, and one single channel. It is 4 miles long and eighty feet wide making it impassable by most modern ships.

The Corinth Canal

We strolled around the relics of Corinth, once an influential ancient Greek and Roman city, and then visited the seaside town of Kehreai.

Upon returning to Athens, we spent time exploring Monastiraki Square. The square was less than a six-minute walk from our hotel, and we found great Greek restaurants, shops, and a market. We found a place to change some money to Euros and bought a charge block for our phones. Taking pictures and roaming quickly depletes our phone batteries.

To put things in perspective, we arrived in Athens ahead of our travel buddies Daniel and Laura. They had been in the country for a few days and preferred exploring the countryside in a rental car. We finally caught up with them two days before the departure of our Greek cruise. Together, we visited the sites of Athens, starting with the Acropolis and Parthenon. Our hotel had a magnificent rooftop bar with amazing views, but nothing compared with fighting through the crowds to get up-close and personal.

The Acropolis

From there, we used the hop-on, hop-off bus, a great way to travel from site to site. We visited many archaeological sites and museums. Our first stop was the Temple of Zeus and the National Gardens. We then went to the National Archeological Museum. Time was getting the best of us, and we wanted to see more ruins, so we continued to the Ancient Agora (market), Hadrian’s Library, and the Temple of Hephaistos. We wrapped up our day with dinner at an amazing seafood restaurant, then a photo opportunity at the rooftop bar of our hotel.

We had breakfast together on our last day in Athens before parting ways. Daniel and Laura adventured in the morning while Jen and I packed and went for early boarding on the Norwegian Pearl. We reconnected later on the ship. They shared some great pictures from the morning.

When traveling with friends, everyone chooses what they want to see and do. We took numerous tours while Daniel and Laura took other excursions. We seldom went on the same adventures. Jen and I continued to explore archeological sites throughout Greece and beyond. The Norwegian Pearl moved us seamlessly from port to port.

The Norwegian Pearl

Our first port was Santorini. It is said that Santorini has more churches than houses, donkeys than people, and wine than water.

We visited Akrotiri, one of the 10 top Archaeological sites in the world, and learned about the prehistoric city, also known as the Pompei of the Aegean. The Theran eruption of approximately 1627 B.C. destroyed this unique Minoan settlement, and Spyridon Marinatos started the extensive excavation in 1967.

The nearly thirty-five centuries-old city still preserves many remains of its fine frescoes, everyday objects, and artwork because the volcanic ash protected them from the elements. At the time of the eruption, the city had reached great development and prosperity, with an elaborate drainage system and sophisticated multistoried buildings. Among other things, Akrotiri has been suggested to be the inspiration for Plato’s story of Atlantis.

The unique archeological site is completely under cover to protect it from the elements as the archeologists work to uncover its well-preserved treasures.

Following our visit to Akrotiri, we stopped at an impressive winery to taste Santorini’s famous wines, enjoy the magnificent view, and relax in its peaceful environment. Jen and I felt that the views were much better than the wine. Others in our group loved the wine. My take on it is that you shouldn’t go to Greece for the wine.

Our final destination was Fira, the cosmopolitan capital and one of Greece’s most famous and picturesque places. We had time to admire the white houses built on the crater’s slopes and explore the narrow paths before taking the cable car and the tender back to the ship.

On the second day, the ship docked in Mykonos. We took a great 3-D tour of Delos. To reach the ruins, we boarded a smaller boat and cruised to the nearby sacred island of Delos. We viewed a wealth of ruins using an electronic tablet with augmented-reality software that showed the structures as they appeared in ancient times.

According to Greek mythology, Apollo and his twin sister Artemis were born in Delos and first settled in the third millennium B.C. Archaeological discoveries excavated here have been deemed so indicative of an ancient cosmopolitan port that the island is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

All of the structures on Delos are excavated ruins, except for the museum and a few buildings for personnel. The landscape remains largely unaltered since ancient times because a town was never built over the original port, a rarity few other archaeological sites share.

As we meandered through the rather barren island, we saw ruins that included temples, statues, mosaic floors, and roads, such as the Sacred Way, which leads to the Sanctuary of Apollo. Another highlight is the Terrace of Lions, named for the Naxian marble lions that guard it. The originals are in the island’s museum to protect them from the elements.

The electronic tablet with 3D augmented reality software enhanced our understanding and enjoyment of the ruins. We pointed the tablet’s camera at a ruin and could view the structure as it originally stood centuries ago.

It is believed that the population of this port was poisoned by pirates, leaving the site untouched for thousands of years before being discovered.

The cruise was port heavy. We stopped at a different site nearly every day. On the third day, we tendered ashore in Zakynthos for a captivating tour, introducing us to Zakynthos Town, the island’s oldest monastery and a traditional island village. We began with a guided tour of Zakynthos Town, sometimes called the Venice of the South. We saw the expansive square named after Dionysios Solomos, the revered poet who wrote Greece’s national anthem, and continued past splendid landmarks. The Byzantine Museum and the Church of Saint Nicholas were amazing.

We then went to the village of Bochali, located below a Venetian fortress, and appreciated sweeping views of Zakynthos Town and the sparkling Ionian Sea. At the 14th-century Monastery of Anafonitria, we learned that Saint Dionysios, Zakynthos’ patron saint, served as the monastery’s abbot for most of his life. We viewed colorful 15th-century frescoes uncovered during the monastery’s painstaking renovation.

In the traditional mountain village of Volimes, we were taken to a modern olive press. The tour explained how olives are prepared and crushed for olive oil. The press has been family-owned for over 100 years, and past equipment was displayed, showing the business’s innovation over the years. The tour ended with a stroll along the city’s main shopping area.

On the fourth day, the ship docked in Corfu, where we indulged in a 4×4 excursion. We enjoyed the fun and adventure of Corfu’s countryside while traveling over stony trails through the olive groves. We caught glimpses of the sparkling Ionian Sea and beautiful green hills and saw many locals’ traditional way of life. Our guide led us up the main coastal road to the island’s northeast. We then took small country roads to quaint villages, stopping at the most charming and oldest on the island to take in the views.

We went uphill on a narrow, winding road that zigzagged to Sokraki, where we stopped to admire one of the most fantastic panoramic views. Continuing on a dusty road, we arrived at Troumbetta. We passed through other picturesque sites before stopping at Bella Vista to enjoy more spectacular views while enjoying refreshments and Greek snacks. We found it difficult to decide which village was the most appealing.

We also visited a traditional Koum Kouat distillery. The Koum Kouat citrus fruit, which only grows in Corfu, is made into one of the island’s most famous products: a liqueur with the same name and fruit-preserved sweets. We viewed a small exhibition of antique distillery equipment, sampled the produce, and purchased a bottle of the local liquor.

Jen and I toured Lapad Bay & Old Town on our next cruise stop. We enjoyed the panoramic views of Dubrovnik while riding through the hilly Lapad Peninsula. At a bay on the peninsula’s western shore, we stopped for a short walk to the Sunset Beach Club. It was an ideal setting to linger over a drink and enjoy the sweeping views of the sparsely populated Elaphiti islands. Afterward, we visited Dubrovnik’s medieval Old Town, which UNESCO deemed a World Heritage site for its extraordinary architecture. As we walked along the main street, the Stradun, we saw Saint Savior Church, the polygonal Fountain of Onofrio, and the Old Pharmacy, founded in 1317. The defensive stone walls surrounding Old Town were built in the 13th century.

The next day, we tendered ashore in Kotor, Montenegro, for a highlights & cable car adventure. We viewed Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm from several characteristic locales, ending with a cable car ride from the summit of Kuk Hill. During the descent, we gazed out over Kotor, its namesake bay, and the surrounding mountains. The terrain was so striking that when playwright George Bernard Shaw visited, he famously quipped from nearby Mount Lovćen, “Am I in paradise or Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm on the moon?” The vistas were just as memorable as we traveled through Lovćen National Park to Cetinje, once the royal capital of Montenegro. Founded in the 15th century, it was a lovely setting for our lunch as it lies in a green bowl at the foot of Mount Lovćen. Our next stop was in Budva, a medieval port that inspired the English poet Lord Bryon. He described it as “the most beautiful meeting of land and sea” and we discovered it still is.

The ship docked the following day at Split, where we toured Split Old Town and Trogir Medieval City, taking advantage of a rare opportunity to visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the same day. We discovered the treasures of Trogir and saw how the Romans influenced the old city of Split. The medieval city of Trogir boasted architectural treasures of beautiful stone houses, palaces, churches, monasteries, towers, and walls. The entire town was like an open-air museum, so strolling through its narrow streets was an unforgettable experience.

We visited the main attraction in Trogir, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, probably the finest example of sacred architecture in Croatia. The unusual construction with three naves and three apses dominates the entire town. The main portal carved by local artist Radovan in the 13th century is world famous. We also saw the Town Loggi, Town Hall, and Cipiko Palace. Afterward, we had some free time to explore on our own.

The old town of Split is built on and around the massive palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian. It represents the most important example of Roman architecture on the Adriatic. Our tour started in the cellars, which are very well preserved. We saw the Cathedral of St. Duje, considered one of the world’s oldest Catholic cathedrals that retains its original structure. We also saw the Golden Gate, the Silver Gate, and the Peristyle Square.

Our Greek Island-hopping cruise reached its final port at Ravenna, Italy. We did not go ashore due to a tropical bora. The bora is a northerly to northeasterly katabatic wind in areas near the Adriatic Sea. Similar nomenclature is used for north-eastern winds in other coastal areas of the eastern Mediterranean and Black Sea basins. I copied and pasted this description from Wikipedia.

A Bora

We disembarked the Pearl nearly twelve hours later than expected after bidding a fond farewell to the crew, who showed us a magnificent cruise. The bora had left our ship floating in the Mediterranean, awaiting disembarkation. We took a shuttle from the port of Trieste to our hotel near the airport in Venice. Time, logistics, and late arrival gave us little time in Venice. We missed our adventure there but took the evening to enjoy a great Italian meal and relax in our 17th-century hotel. The hotel has been in the same family for centuries and President Reagan was a guest there (see the photo below). Venice was deluged with rain and wind.

Our return to Panama barely allowed us to do the laundry before leaving for Washington D.C., Bethesda, and Annapolis, Maryland. Jen and I flew to Baltimore, Maryland, a few days before Jen’s younger brother’s wedding. We spent two days in Washington, D.C. I had never been there, and it was an excellent opportunity to see our nation’s capital.

The photos below are randomly ordered and don’t do our visit justice. During the two days there, we visited The White House, the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial, The Vietnam War Memorial, The FBI, The Supreme Court, The Library of Congress, The US Capitol, and more. We walked what seemed to be a thousand miles. Our Congressman, Greg Stube, arranged for a private tour of the Capitol with one of his aids. That was a highlight of our visit. I particularly enjoyed the Library of Congress, while Jen enjoyed The Supreme Court. Background checks were required for The White House and FBI tours, making prior planning a must. Jen had the whole thing arranged and scheduled in advance.

It was a beautiful Saturday at the Naval Academy in Annapolis for Jon and Karine’s wedding. The ceremony was beautiful, and we were pleased to welcome Karine into the family and pray for special blessings for their happiness. The pictures below are some I captured walking into the chapel, where no pictures were allowed, and one of Jon, Karine, and Jon’s boys in the superintendent’s garden. The other is Jon and Karine cutting the cake.

Cutting the Wedding Cake

After the wedding, Jen returned to Panama while I flew to Florida.  As many of you know, Dad’s wife, Renee, passed away just before our trip to Greece. I could spend ten days with him before I returned to Panama. My time in Florida was eye-opening. The first picture below is from three years ago. It’s from Gilcrest Park last Monday. I returned to the same location to take pictures while I was there. The devastation in the park was awful. Hurricane Helene created a storm surge, depositing two boats in the park. After Hurricane Milton, I counted almost sixteen boats in the park, pickleball courts, and across the street. The takeaway here is the power of the storm surge. My family and I had no significant damage from the storm, but as I visited with my dad for more than a week, the devastation was heartbreaking. There were hundreds of homes with all their furniture out by the street. Dumpsters in driveways collected drywall and carpets from flooded homes.

We returned to Florida late in November for Renee’s memorial. The Celebration of Life was the beautiful tribute she certainly deserved.
While in Florida, I was invited to speak at her book club. Several group members approached me at her Celebration of Life and asked that I join them for their regular monthly meeting. Many showed up with copies of Murder in Eagle Cove and asked that I sign them. Members of the group bought every copy I had with me. They added it to their current reading list, and we discussed where the series will go from the end of the first book. They are superfans, and I loved every minute of it. They are as anxious for the second in the series as I am. I’m working to have a mini launch and book signing in Punta Gorda, Florida, in May, along with a book signing tour from Florida to Boston, where the series takes place.
The Punta Gorda Book Club

We got our condo in Port Charlotte ready for our snowbird tenants before departing. Our plans for the last big adventure of the year were tweaked just a little for Renee’s memorial.

We drove to Miami, returned our rental car, and overnighted before boarding the Norwegian Joy.

Norwegian Joy

Our first port was in Cozumel, Mexico. Admittedly, this is someplace we’d been before, but how can you not love the adventuring experience there? We enjoyed a unique excursion, Cozumel by Land & Sea. It combined an insider’s view of local chocolate and tequila production as a postlude for exploring the wonders underwater in a semi-submersible. At the Mayan Cacao Company, we saw how chocolate is made from cacao. This process dates back to the ancient Mayans, who drank chocolate for ceremonial and medicinal purposes as far back as 500 BC. After sampling some creamy (and exceptionally yummy) chocolate, we proceeded to a tequila-tasting seminar for a tasting that presented the historical and cultural importance of tequila on the Yucatan peninsula.

A different perspective of Cozumel awaited us just offshore on Paradise Reef, where we explored the underwater world in a semi-submersible way. Although the vessel’s viewing windows were only a few feet below the water’s surface, the sights were extraordinary. We saw a riot of brilliantly colored fish and coral reefs.

Our second port was in Harvest Caye, Belize. This was another of the places we have yet to have the opportunity to explore. It was on the list of possible retirement destinations before choosing Panama. Our ship was the only one in port, making it an easy, laid-back stop. Jen and I enjoyed Rainforest River Tubing. There was a genuine feel for rural life while we drove through the densely forested countryside to Maya World Outpost, the starting point for our adventure. After a short briefing to help maximize the tubing experience, we eased into the refreshing but cold river, and the current carried us downstream. Floating down the slow-moving river on an inner tube, we took in the spectacular rainforest scenery while listening to the ambient sounds of the jungle. Mountain springs feed the river, so the water is crystal-clear. Along the way, we passed through a picturesque mountain gorge over a series of small rapids and under overhanging trees, keeping us primarily in the shade. The ever-changing scenery added to the excitement and made the trip memorable. We heard and saw squawking tropical birds abundant in the protected rainforest.

A Mayan Statue at the entrance of Maya World Outpost.

Next, we made port in Costa Maya, Mexico. We didn’t plan any excursions there as we’d visited before. We decided instead to remain aboard the ship and enjoy the incredible offerings. We opted to add the adults-only area, Vibe Club, to our package on this cruise. We loved the special adult-only atmosphere and enjoyed the hot tub and high-end bar. Taking a cruise is only sometimes about the amazing ports and adventures. We could kick back and relax while someone else did the cooking, laundry, and housekeeping. The bars and restaurants aboard the Norwegian ship did an excellent job keeping us fed and hydrated. Thanksgiving dinner was prime rib, soup, vegetables, and pumpkin cheesecake. We could have selected turkey and all the fixings, but why when the prime rib is on the menu? Another great benefit of a cruise vacation is the awesome shows…we had the Beetles on board. There were also comics and multiple talented entertainers rounding out the long list of entertainment.

Our delightful cruise continued to Roatan, Honduras, where we made port on Thursday. Roatan was another consideration for our retirement strategy. We have friends in Panama who nearly opted for this beautiful island offshore from Honduras. We could see why. It’s full of English-speaking expats, and the near-perfect tropical Caribbean climate was amazing.

Jen is hooked on ATV adventures. She booked us on an amazing adventure through the rainforest and mangroves. The adventure began in the village of Politilly Bight, where we hopped on ATVs and raced off caravan-style, following the guide into the surrounding wilderness. We saw the natural beauty that abounds in the island’s more remote regions, riding the ATV through a tropical rainforest. The recent rain and natural trails with potholes had mud flying, making driving all the more fun and our shoes and clothes dirty. After a brief stop at a traditional Garifuna village, we were transferred to Oak Ridge, the island’s oldest fishing community. From there, we cruised along the mangrove-lined shores of southern Roatan. Mangrove forests line the banks almost everywhere and often create tunnels in the tree canopy that our boat easily navigated through. Besides being environmentally beneficial, mangroves shelter many animals, especially water birds such as green herons and roseate spoonbills.

We concluded the cruise in Miami. With another great adventure in the rearview mirror, we departed the Port of Miami by coach with a knowledgeable guide for a one-hour drive to Everglades National Park. This world-renowned eco-system covers about 5,000 square miles and is home to most of Florida’s alligators, snakes, black bears, wild pigs, over two hundred species of birds, including herons, egrets, white ibis, anhingas, roseate spoonbills, wood storks, ospreys, hawks, vultures, eagles and more, plus the endangered and nocturnal Florida Panther – less than 100 remaining in the wild.

We boarded our airboat for a thirty-minute exhilarating ride over the “River of Grass,” where we encountered several different creatures. After the airboat ride, we enjoyed an alligator show and various crocodilian exhibits. We then had time to visit the souvenir shop. On the drive back to the city, our guide gave us great insight into the two Florida tribes of Native American Indians.

Our Miami adventure continued with a sightseeing and millionaire boat tour. We started at South Beach in the Art Deco History District. After South Beach, we explored the Wynwood Art District before moving on to Little Havana. The guide had our driver take us through Coconut Grove, Miami’s oldest and most prestigious neighborhood. At the Bayside Marketplace, we had lunch before boarding the Millionaire’s Cruise. The guide pointed out celebrity homes and offered fun facts. It went by so fast that all the homes photographed were not identified.

Our day ended at Superblue Miami, where Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s interactive artwork was presented in an amazing new sound and light installation by Studio Lemercier. Each room of the Superblue exhibit was a different experience. One room was full of bubbles falling from the ceiling, one had mirrors and lights, and another was a laser light experience.

After two full days of exploring Miami, we caught a flight with 20 other adventure seekers to Cuba. I stated earlier that the pinnacle of our adventures in 2024 was my Writer’s retreat in Greece. If you haven’t yet read our blog post from Cuba, it’s worth your time. I was blown away by the history, culture, and people there. You can use the link above or on the sidebar to access it.

I couldn’t conclude this post without talking about a few other significant things. I was invited to speak at several events and participated in some podcasts. My interview with Retire There is due to be published shortly.

Watch my newsletter for information about that as it becomes available. I had a great interview with Melissa Darnay from Choose Panama about our retirement, my writing, and life in Panama. That interview was posted to her website and nationwide on every platform where people enjoy great podcasts. My interview with Melissa is available here.

I talked earlier about Renee Johnson’s death. We also lost one of our dearest friends here in Panama, Barbara Munn. Barb and Renee were both instrumental in the writing of my first novel and advised me on the second before they passed. Jen and I are sad at the loss of these beautiful women. May they both rest in eternal peace.

We’re home in Panama, and it’s just a few days until Christmas. We anxiously await the miracle of the newborn Christ Jesus. We will be celebrating with our church family and fellowshipping on Christmas Eve. On Christmas day, we will be having a small dinner party with a few of our most special friends. Panama has provided Jen and me with special friendships that will last a lifetime.

The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events. Of course, if you’re not subscribed to receive this blog in your inbox, check the sidebar for the link to subscribe. I never share my subscriber list, and I never send spam. Your privacy is highly respected.

Have a blessed New Year,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Our Great Cuba Adventure

Last week, Jen and I had the amazing opportunity to spend time in Havana, Cuba. I captured the photo above from the 1951 Chevy convertible we took to dinner on Tuesday night. No words can describe Cuba. I am committed to carefully chronicling our experience to share what we found there. This post may be political. The politics of socialist and communist governments benefit only the elite leaders. It was heartbreaking to witness the extreme poverty of the people. The government controls everything from how often people get gasoline to the power grid to property ownership.

Photo by Michelle Price

We arrived on Monday afternoon at Jose Marti International Airport in Havana, Cuba. We joined a small group of excited adventurers from Friendly Planet to explore Cuba on their Havana Express tour.  We found the airport clean and efficient. Terminal 3 seemed like the only terminal. It is the international terminal welcoming flights from the United States. Havana is Cuba’s capital city, and Old Havana is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our tour guide, Lazaro, met us at the airport with a Friendly Planet sign outside the arrival terminal.

We ultimately learned that Lazaro is a professor of Cuban history at the university. He was an expert on Cuba, providing us with great insight. Our tour itinerary was only a guideline, and we saw things we never expected. Each time one of the visitors expressed an interest in something, he tried to fit it into the agenda. The government carefully monitors tours and visitors; at times, we were told we couldn’t go there or take pictures of that.

We boarded a vehicle driven by our capable driver, Ricardo, the entire visit. He navigated the narrow streets and kept each of us comfortable. We always felt comfortable with the surroundings, leaving our belongings on the bus while we toured. The bus was airconditioned and had adequate space for the twenty of us. It was nearly 35-40 minutes’ drive to The Casa, our accommodation for the entire visit.

Our driver, Ricardo.
Our driver, Ricardo.

On the drive, Lazaro began orienting us to the surroundings of our home for the next few days. It had a school across the street. We were warned not to engage the children. We knew in advance we would not be able to give them anything. It was heartbreaking to notice the extreme poverty in the neighborhood. Despite everything, it was very safe. Our bags were unloaded upon arrival, and we went inside for room assignments. We met our house hosts. Jose and Ray each worked long opposing shifts, leaving one always available to answer questions, request transportation, or attend to any needs of their guests. Both spoke perfect English. We also had a housekeeper and cook. Breakfast was served each morning.

Each afternoon, when we returned to our room, the housekeeper had left us a nice message.

After we were settled into our room, we walked with some of our fellow adventurers to the end of the block, where the street ended at the ocean. There was a wall with the waves crashing. Each person we encountered on our walk was welcoming and kind. One storefront had a long line of people we later learned were waiting for their monthly ration of rice and beans.

In Cuba, everything is owned by the government except a few privately owned businesses or enterprises. We learned that a private business turns over half its net earnings to the government. I’ll make sure to talk more about that later. Most of our tours were centered in privately owned businesses. Our dinner on Monday night was at a privately owned restaurant called a paladar.

We walked about six blocks in the dark, active neighborhood with Lazaro to Cafe Miglis. The converted home was beautiful, and the food was delicious. Our host, Miglis, lived upstairs and welcomed us into his restaurant and was happy to give us a tour of his living quarters upstairs after our meal. Each person has stories to share, and he shared his immigration to Cuba from Sweden in the 50s. He was an award-winning filmmaker invited to the country to make some films and chose to stay. He married a Cuban woman and settled into his current home. He and his staff treated us like royalty.

On Tuesday, we had breakfast before Lazaro took us to Revolution Square and then on a leisurely walk through the labyrinthian streets of Old Havana. We immersed ourselves in the vibrant colors of Cuba while walking along the narrow streets and exploring the four beautiful plazas of the Old City—Plaza de Armas, Plaza San Francisco, Plaza Vieja, and Plaza de la Catedral—each a historic and architectural gem.

Revolution Tower
Revolution Tower

On the bus ride, Lazaro pointed out the new American Embassy established during the Obama administration. It is in what was called New Havana. When we reached Old Havana, we then understood some dynamics. Almost all of Old Havana is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The former American Embassy lies in the center of this area. Then President Obama wanted to reoccupy the old embassy building. His request was denied because the required renovations would cause Cuba to lose the UNESCO designation for the area, as a majority of the area would have to be blocked off for the  security for the embassy. This stunning area is adjacent to the port and contained within a wall built to protect it from pirate attacks in the 1500s.

After walking the charming squares and getting filled with history and interesting facts about the statues and architecture, Lazaro briefed us on our lunch choices. He told us which to avoid and which were considered the best Cuban food. We separated from the group and chose a restaurant on the square. Many of us chose the same place, and our biggest problem was calculating the exchange rate between Cuban pesos and dollars. One server explained the exchange as 300 pesos per dollar, but the bill was calculated at 260 pesos per dollar. It was a small difference. We paid a premium to pay in dollars. It wasn’t very clear. The people in Cuba are pleased to accept dollars or euros but will not take a credit card from the United States. We found many places offered the price in several denominations. Jen and I took euros and dollars and paid with both. They must have nearly new bills without creases, marks, or tears.

After lunch, we met with the group at the designated time and place. Lazaro walked us several blocks to an establishment to enjoy Cuba’s music and dance world with a private dance class. Our talented and personable teachers demonstrated Cuba’s most traditional dances. We saw how important music and dancing are to life in Cuba. Afterward, they taught us some basic Salsa steps.

There was a moment during our walk through the beautiful cobblestone streets of Old Havana when Lazaro paused outside a nondescript home. He began talking about what was behind the walls of the home. It was the House of Charity and Maternity. This is a refuge for children up to 6 years old who cannot be cared for by their mothers. It was established in the early 1700s by Bishop Fray Geronimo Valdes. Over the years, he rescued children, giving them all his surname, Valdes. This accounts for the most common surname in Cuban culture. This place was particularly important to Lazaro as he had an ancestor who the charity rescued. Hence his name Lazaro Valdes.

The tour moved along at warp speed. There were times when I couldn’t pick my jaw up off the floor long enough to take pictures. Despite that, I took nearly a thousand pictures in Cuba. Our guide took us to places we never expected, and there were times when photos were not allowed. The pictures below were from an impromptu stop at the Museum of Revolution, an open-air display of vehicles and equipment from the Revolution. The boat Castro came on from Mexico was behind the glass and too far away for pictures. There were also some emergency vehicles, a military plane,  and an armored truck full of bullet holes on display. There was a military guard in uniform. Lazaro said no pictures of the guards (military) here. If the guard sees you taking pictures, he will seize your device. Too late, I snapped a few.

Directly across the street was a modern art museum. We didn’t go in.

I asked Lazaro about touring the cigar factory. He explained the government only allowed tours with special arrangements. He did get the driver to take us to the government cigar and liquor store. We were told that nothing from that store could be brought back into the United States. Almost the entire group went into the store and bought rum and cigars to consume during the visit. Our group was lively, and we partied together every night for the remainder of our time. The Cuban rum is manufactured in the plant where Bacardi started. Bacardi was sent packing after the revolution and embargo, and the government now makes rum in the plant under its own label. The Cuban rum is much better than Bacardi and is best sipped straight. We were warned about drinking the water and using ice.

The government-owned cigar store
The government-owned cigar store

A short drive from the cigar store in Marianao, outside the city center, we experienced the future of Cuban acrobatics with a meet-and-greet and show from the incredibly talented Angeles del Futuro. This community project trains children in the art of circus acrobatics. The director, coaches, volunteers, and parents all work together to provide the training, costumes, and equipment free of charge to the children and their families. It is truly a project that supports Cubans, their dreams, and the arts. We watched an example of the circus show and saw for ourselves the talent of these kids. After the show, we got to know these young acrobats themselves. We learned during the demonstration that several of the kids were award winners. Some were fostered by the director, who rescued them from abusive or neglectful homes. Their talent was incredible. They were all in their teens or younger. The facility is an old theater. The director asked the government for it, and they allowed him to take possession of it to rescue at-risk children.

The director poses with the talents performers.
The director poses with the talented performers.

The day was winding down. Our constant tour schedule was exhausting. We were on our own for dinner, and nearly nothing was out of bounds. We were given a list of approved restaurants, but using our best judgment, we could go nearly anywhere we wished. Everyone in the group asked our host at the Casa to arrange for rides in vintage convertibles. Our cost of an hour-long tour of Havana in the ’51 Chevy was $40. USD. Jen and I shared the cost with two other adventurers. Our driver picked us up in front and drove around before stopping near Revolution Square. We found several similar tours there and took pictures in and out of the old cars.

The convertibles were lined up in front of The Casa. Ours is the one in front.
The convertibles were lined up in front of The Casa. Ours is the one in front.

I chatted with the driver, who freely shared about life in Cuba. I purposely do not share his name while repeating some of his stories. You’ll be able to understand why. He explained that he was a music teacher before becoming a tour guide. His salary for teaching was approximately $100 USD per month. This did not support his family. He privately owned the car, which he had saved to purchase. He stated that he often waited more than twelve hours in line for gasoline. His gas consumption and mileage are carefully monitored to be sure he is turning over his 50% to the government. He pointed out the garbage piled in the street, stating the government doesn’t have gas for the trucks to pick it up. He pointed out the government-owned pharmacies and stores, telling us they were empty. They only provide these things to the wealthy elite, keeping the average people poor, hungry, and without medicine. When asked about clothes and toiletries, he said those things were only available on the black market. Several of our group had brought toiletries and toothbrushes for the people. Lazaro was tasked with passing these items out as we toured. We were sad about the fate of the Cuban people.

Garbage accumulates in the streets for weeks at a time.

I asked our driver to recommend a great restaurant and if he would end our tour there. I told him we would take a taxi back to The Casa. He suggested that for $10 additional, he would take us to dinner, wait for us, and return us to The Casa himself. The restaurant where he took us, in Hostal Canonazo, was amazing. The full lobster tail was their specialty for $27 USD. There was live entertainment, and the place was busy. I invited him to join us for dinner, but he wouldn’t hear of it. Other drivers were waiting outside. I’m sure he wanted to keep his magnificent car within sight. After our dinner, he drove us home. I gave him the agreed-upon fare and a generous tip. There was a tear in his eye as he hugged us and left. If I ever return to Havana, I will look up this awesome person for a tour.

The other adventurers trickled back to the Casa. We stayed up long into the night drinking rum and smoking Cuban cigars with them. Our host, Jose, joined the fun, and we got more acquainted with him and the people we were touring with. There were no pictures of the festivities. What happens in Havana stays in Havana.

Wednesday, we woke to an unplanned power outage. The government claims it doesn’t have fuel to power the electrical plants. I viewed it as control from the top down. Without power, the people do amazingly well. Lazaro said that no part of the tour would be affected. Jen and I showered by flashlight, ate breakfast, and boarded the bus on time with everyone else. Gas cooking appliances and rechargeable lighting allowed us to have a normal breakfast with everything but toast. We learned that the power outage was nationwide, and no firm restoration estimate existed.

The day began with a stop at a display of the weapons staged in Cuba by the USSR to protect the island from threats from United States President John F. Kennedy. I’d like you to please read on to see the weapons, followed by the chronology of those tense days leading up to October 1962.

The Cohete Sopka (pictured above) is a winged rocket for coastal defense against water attacks. It was meant to destroy naval groups with high-impact precision. It was built from a modified Mig-15 plane with a radio correction system for flight direction. The USSR positioned 34 of these in Mariel, Pinar del Rio province.

The Cohete P-15 (pictured above) is a jet weapons complex of the P-15 system intended to attack warships and enemy transports. The creation of these weapons affirms the importance of combat boats and missile carriers as an effective means of attack in the naval system to destroy ships, the fight against amphibious vehicles, and the protection of the coasts.

The Cohete Luna (pictured above) is a tactical ballistic rocket for ground troops. It was designed to prevent landings by air or sea. The weapon could be self-propelled from a PT-76 tank. Thirty-six of these were staged at the towns of Artemisia, Managua, and Remedios. Twenty-four had conventional loads, and 12 had nuclear warheads.

The Soviets also provided the cannons and ground artillery pictured above in case of a ground attack.

The Cohete SA-75 (pictured above) is an anti-aircraft rocket. These were positioned all over the island, configuring an anti-aircraft defense brigade.

The Cohete R-12 (pictured above) is a medium-range ballistic rocket. During the early years of the Revolution, the Soviet government positioned three regiments with 36 operational rockets, all with nuclear heads, at the ports of Bahia Honda, Mariel, and Casilda in the Pinar del Rio province.

In 1962, after the defeat at Playa Giron, the National Security Council of the United States drafted a secret program called “Operation Mongoose,” which President John F. Kennedy approved.

The expulsion of Cuba from the OAS, the increase in the economic blockade, the terrorist actions against the island, and the anti-Cuban propaganda campaigns to justify direct military aggression against Cuba were part of this program.

The mobilization of thousands of US reservists, as well as the holding of military exercises in regions near Cuba, and the history of interventionist policy in Latin America predicted a direct military attack by the United States on the island. In October of 1962, the October Crisis began, known internationally as the Crisis of the Missiles or Caribbean Crisis. This fact is considered the most dramatic and dangerous incident during the Cold War in the historical confrontation between the United States and Cuba.  Humanity was on the verge of a nuclear war, and Cuba was the scene of that conflict.

On the 9th of May 1962, a Soviet delegation visited Cuba, chaired by Sharaf Rashidov, deputy member of the CPSU Central Committee, Marshal Serguei Biriuzov, head of the strategic missile forces, and senior Soviet officers. The delegation entrusted by the president of the Council of Ministers of the Soviet Union, Nikita S. Khrushchev, proposed to the Cuban government the installation of strategic defense weapons in Cuba for the joint defense of the island against the danger of aggression.

By June, Operation Anadir involved the mobilization of Soviet troops and preparations to ship war materials. The contingents of Soviet soldiers numbered around 43,000 troops. They included the Strategic Rocket Troops, Air Force, Anti-Aircraft Defense Troops, Land Troops, Navy, and other assurances. Such an operation had never been carried out in the history of the Soviet Union. In addition, plans were carried out to mask and conceal the activities to be carried out and disinformation. According to the agreement, the military units of each country were under the command of their respective governments, coordinating the use of their corresponding forces to repel the aggression.

On July 3rd, the FAR Minister, Commander Raul Castro Ruz, traveled to Moscow and held talks with Khrushchev to discuss details of the Military Agreement that would be signed and published in November 1962. The Cuban Directorate, in correspondence with the sentiment of solidarity with the USSR and the socialist camp, accepted the agreement. This would improve the correlation of the forces between the two major powers and contribute to Cuba’s defense against the danger of aggression, per the principles of International Law.

The transfer of weapons to Cuba began on the 12th of July. Eighty-five boats were used, making 185 voyages to deliver the weapons to Cuban territory. The entire process was done in secret.

During August through October 1962 the arrival and deployment of the Soviet weapons was carried out. They installed medium and intermediate-range nuclear rockets and IL-28 bombers. Thirty-six combat rockets and 9 Luna rockets were brought into Cuba, all with nuclear warheads. There were 45 total nuclear warheads installed in the country.

On October 14th, the United States detected and photographed the Soviet rocket emplacements from U-2 planes near San Cristobal, Pinar del Rio. This constituted a great danger as it gave the United States an advantage, which could carry out a surprise attack on the installations. Kennedy ordered increased reconnaissance flights over the island.

Eight days later, Kennedy, using evidence of the presence of nuclear weapons as a pretext, began the naval blockade against Cuba. To make it effective, it included 238 ships, eight aircraft carriers, two cruisers, 118 destroyers, 13 submarines, 65 amphibious ships, and 32 auxiliary ships. The troops at Guantanamo Naval Base were increased from 8,000 to 16,000 men. At 5:40 in the afternoon, Commander in Chief Fidel Castro gave the order of Combat Alarm in a television appearance. Cuba deployed 270,000 combatants in the regular military and 150,000 in popular defense. There were 54 infantry divisions, six reactive artillery groups, a tank brigade, three independent 120mm mortar groups, 20 Naval units, 118 anti-aircraft artillery batteries, and 47 aircraft.

On October 23rd, faced with interfering statements from Kennedy, Khrushchev sent a letter to Fidel Castro in which he condemned the “picaresque” actions of the US government, considering them “aggressive” and a provocative act against the Soviet Union. He expressed his firm conviction of Cuba’s right to defend itself according to the norms of international law and the Soviet Union’s unconditional support for the Cuban Revolution and its willingness to defend it.

Later on the 23rd, Castro appeared on Cuban television, responding to Kennedy’s aggressive speech and informing the people of the serious situation. He expressed that Cuba would resist the imperialist blockade, would not disarm, and would calmly face the nuclear threat.

On October 25th, the Secretary General of the United Nations addressed the governments of the Soviet Union and the United States to avoid a confrontation between the two powers. The Soviet government responded positively by moving its ships away from the area, while the United States continued its threatening and arrogant tone. Kennedy ordered an increase in low-flying flights over Cuban Soil to 12 times daily.

On October 26th, Castro sent a letter to Khrushchev, in which he warned of the imminence of a United States invasion of Cuba and the Cuban decision to confront it. That day, the Soviet premier sent a message to his American counterpart, proposing a peaceful solution to the conflict based on the withdrawal of the projectiles in exchange for not invading Cuba.

On October 27th, Castro expressed to the UN Secretary-General, U Thant, his willingness to dialogue to solve the crisis as long as the United States stopped its threats, aggressive actions, and naval blockade of Cuba. That same day, US warplanes violated Cuban airspace, and anti-aircraft batteries opened fire on them in compliance with Cuba’s legitimate right to its defense. The U-2 spy plane was shot down by a Soviet rocket group stationed in the municipality of Banes, former Oriente province. The pilot, Major Rudolf Anders, was killed.

On October 30th and 31st, talks took place between a UN delegation and Cuban authorities at the Presidential Palace. The decision was made that Cuba had the right to defend its sovereignty. After the talks, the withdrawal of strategic defensive weapons began without the Cuban Revolutionary government creating any obstacles to the Soviet withdrawal.

I found the visit to this place very interesting. I took most of the content for this portion of the post from a chronology on display at the exhibit. It should be noted here that these weapons are all disarmed. Our guide stated that the remains of the pilot were never requested to be returned by the US government. To do so, they would have to admit to violating Cuba’s airspace. It is unbelievable to finally understand how close we were to nuclear war in 1962.

 We continued to Guanabacoa to tour Vista Hermosa, a 100% organic, eco-friendly, sustainable urban farm. We learned about their specialization in growing seasonal fruits and vegetables and producing milk and cheese with free-range livestock. We enjoyed a farm-to-table lunch with homemade artisanal meats, cheeses, and local fruits and vegetables. The traditional Cuban desserts were amazing!

Later, we ventured out to Finca Vigía, Hemingway’s old home, which is now a museum that independent organizations support. Hemmingway bought the home and 16 acres in 1945 for $17,000 USD. It still contains the largest private collection of books and magazines in Cuba. This is where he wrote Old Man and the Sea and For Whom the Bell Tolls. There is also a priceless Picasso etching hanging in his study. This stop was a highlight for me as an author.

During the Obama administration, Michelle Obama toured here, and modifications were made to the entrance for Secret Service access. We were not allowed inside, but the windows and doors were opened wide. As we walked the perimeter of the house, and interacted with local caretakers to learn more about the life of Hemingway. We peered through the windows to see how it was kept when he lived there. The walls are lined with bookshelves and paintings, some depicting Hemingway on his African safaris. The heads of many of the animals he encountered are also mounted in several rooms. In the bathroom, we could see the writing on the wall above his scale, where he obsessively recorded his weight. Continuing around the home, we saw the adjacent tower where he did much of his writing and saw his typewriter. He built this tower after purchasing the house. A short walk down the hill was where we found the pool, pet cemetery, and his boat.

Another heartbreak was the deferred maintenance of Hemmingway’s home. Lazaro explained that the benefactors supporting the museum could not provide the funds necessary to maintain this treasure in Cuba in the way it deserved.

We visited a market on the street during our ride back to The Casa for a short rest before our farewell dinner. Lazaro had planned a stop at the big artisan market, but we found it closed due to the power outage. Despite the setback, many of us found trinkets to return home with. We learned that the power was being slowly restored across the country in phases. With no power, schools and many businesses were closed. It was a relief that there was power at the Casa when we arrived.

Our farewell dinner involved a drink-making and cooking demonstration. We learned the secrets of the Cuban kitchen while participating in a traditional Cuban cooking class experience! We got tasteful insights into Cuban culture as we went hands-on to prepare a meal with locals. It all started with the bartender directing us to make our own Mojito. The Mojito is the national drink of Cuba made famous by Hemmingway. We learned from experienced chefs as they took us through making some of Cuba’s most delicious traditional food, such as fried taro root (frituras de malanga) served with ginger, honey, or mustard. Next, we saw the steps of making stuffed plantains (tostones) with chard and pepper.

Following the demonstrations, we enjoyed a classic Cuban main dish of shredded meat (ropa vieja), salad, rice, beans, and vegetables. The meal concluded with a delicious local dessert.

Dayron Robles and his wife owned the delightful restaurant where we celebrated our farewell dinner. He is a Cuban track and field athlete specializing in the 110-meter hurdles. He won his first major medal (a silver) in the 60-meter hurdles at the 2006 World Indoor Championships. He finished the 2006 season, improved his outdoor best to 13 seconds, and became the Central American and Caribbean Games champion. Pan American gold came the following year, which also set a meet record of 12.92 seconds at the 2007 IAAF World Athletics Final – making him the joint fourth fastest ever.

He reached the pinnacle of his event in 2008 by setting a world record of 12.87 seconds in June at the Golden Spike Ostrava meet, and winning an Olympic gold medal at the 2008 Beijing Olympics in 12.93 seconds. Injury ruled him out for much of 2009, but he returned strongly with a championship record win at the 2010 IAAF World Indoor Championships.

Dayron Robles
Dayron Robles

When we arrived at the restaurant, they were still without power. The demonstration and meal went forward with gas cooking and battery-operated lighting. About halfway through our meal, the power came back on to a cheer of delight from the adventurers and staff. I deduced that the worst part of extended power outages was the lack of refrigeration. Some of our fellow travelers began becoming sick. Jen and I were spared the food poisoning, but both experienced intestinal difficulties by the time we reached home. Food handling without electricity is poor at best. Even without electricity, our tour never stopped.

We enjoyed a delightful breakfast on Thursday before being shuttled to the airport for the flight home. The boarding gate in terminal 3 was clean and comfortable. A few of our fellow adventurers even found treasured souvenirs in the airport shops.

I couldn’t conclude this post without sharing other thoughts, observations, gratitude, and random photos. One notable observation was that we never saw a uniformed cop or police vehicle. When asked about it, we were told they were everywhere in plain sight. People committing crimes or making inflammatory statements against the government are quickly arrested. I want to thank Michelle Price and Julie Delio for the photos. I also shamelessly used Google and Wikipedia for help finetuning the content. Third, I want to thank our hosts, Raysel Echevarria and Jose Vega, without whom the adventure would never have been the same. Our guide, Lazaro Valdes, was awesome. I hope the great information he shared with us shines through this post and I have correctly chronicled everything. Some of the photos may have needed to be better identified. I was overwhelmed. The photos below are just a few that didn’t find a place in the post above.

You cannot imagine the hours of work that go into publishing a work of this magnitude. I appreciate all of you for appreciating it. I love having the journal of our trip. When asked if we would visit again, I said yes without hesitation. I already have a good friend who wants to make the trip. If visiting Cuba is on your bucket list, do it. It’s worth the extra trouble and special visa.

The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events.

I was so anxious to share the Cuba trip that I blogged ahead of other adventures to make sure the details were fresh in my mind. I am committed to sharing a Retired in Panama Review of 2024 in the next few weeks with special details of our adventure in Greece, my writing retreat with Jonas Saul, cruise adventures, and other year-end news.

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

We were overcome by exhaustion following our awesome South America adventure

When Jen and I scheduled our South American adventure, we were checking off an item from my bucket list. We were pampered for most of the trip on the beautiful Norwegian Star, which only circumvented about half the continent over our twenty-four days on board. The cruise ship journey was nearly 5000 Nautical miles. Initially, I wanted to cruise from and return to Panama, making the entire journey around South America. That was neither logistically nor financially possible. No carriers are making an offer for this transit. The sheer size of the continent baffled me, as I’m sure it does many. We traveled from Panama City over six hours by plane to Santiago, Chile, and returned by plane over seven hours from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Our adventure in South America started in Santiago. We saw treasured landmarks of the Chilean capital on a tour of Santiago. We visited the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago, Cerro Santa Lucia, and La Moneda Palace. We absorbed the bohemian charm of the Bellavista neighborhood and opted to explore the city’s financial district, nicknamed ‘Manhattan’ due to its skyscrapers. Our guide gave us insight into Santiago’s rich history and culture.

That evening, we enjoyed a performance by ‘Voces de América’ (America’s Voices) and the ‘Thiare’ ballet during a combination dinner show experience in Santiago. The three-course dinner of international fare was served while we enjoyed an extravaganza of typical dances from Chile’s northern, central, and southern regions, plus Easter Island. The set decoration featured exotic recreations of the ‘Moai’ stone from Easter Island, perfect for our romantic evening.

The Singer

We were transported from Santiago to San Antonio the following day, with two great adventures along the way. The first was Vina Santa Rita, one of Chile’s largest and most influential wineries. Founded in 1880, a large part of its success stems from its owner importing some of the finest French varieties, a team of top French winemakers, and specialized equipment. This investment paid off by producing some spectacular wines and changing the country’s wine industry. We enjoyed a guided tour through their vineyards and cellar, followed by wine tasting. We walked through the beautifully landscaped park and gardens, followed by wine tasting.

Our second stop was Parque Tricao. This private nature reserve preserves and protects 100 hectares of wetland and forest for the community. Not only are there walking trails and secluded spots to take in the park’s surroundings, but the world’s second-largest aviary and a garden inspired by Monet. We opted to spend the afternoon exploring the beautiful aviary.

Our driver delivered us to our hotel in San Antonio, near the port. We met new friends who would cruise with us for dinner in the hotel. We spent the night anticipating boarding our ship, where we spent the next 24 days traveling and exploring. I got these great photos in San Antonio before we boarded.

We set sail for Puerto Mont, Chile, with a day at sea planned en route. Unfortunately, the weather prevented us from taking excursions at our stop there. We prayed for better weather. The captain traveled on, giving us another day at sea before making an unscheduled stop in Castro.

Beautiful Sunsets

We gathered with a few of our new friends for the unplanned stop at Castro.

Castro is Chile’s third oldest city in continuous existence. Rodrigo de Quiroga, as the temporary governor of Chile in 1567, launched a campaign led by his son-in-law, Captain Martin Ruiz de Gamboa, to conquer Chiloé Island, establish the city of Castro there, and subjugate its inhabitants, the Cunos. From its founding on February 12, 1576, until 1767, Castro was the administrative center of Chiloé Island. In 1594, Castro had 8,000 inhabitants, most of whom were farmers. Up to the middle of the 17th century, Dutch pirates looted the town several times.

We opted to walk around and enjoy the delightful little town on the Pacific Coast of Chile.

Notice we’re wearing warmer clothes. As the adventure moved south, the weather became cooler. We boarded the ship at the end of the day, and the captain set sail. The weather at Castro was perfect, and everyone was optimistic that we could visit all of the scheduled ports and travel through the Magellan Straights and Beagle Channel before rounding Cape Horn. The captain was forced to cancel some of the best ports on the cruise before ours.

We traveled through the Chilian Fjords for two days before landing in Punta Arenas, Chile, on Saturday. We chartered a vessel to one of Chile’s largest penguin colonies. Located on Magdalena Island, the site was declared a natural monument in 1982. The boat took us for an hour along the Strait of Magellan. We were given about an hour on the island to observe the Magellan penguins in their natural habitat. A large colony of penguin’s nest and breed there each year between October and March. They bury their eggs in sandy burrows and under shrubs. Most chicks had hatched, and we caught this adventure at the end of the breeding season. Some adult penguins had already started the migration, and the chicks were soon to follow.  They were curious and untamed – if approached too quickly, they would scamper off.

Following our amazing visit to the penguin habitat, Jen and I wandered around the port town before returning to the ship.

Punta Arenas

Our next stop was Ushuaia, Argentina, where we had a great tour. It began with a scenic drive to Central Station for an unforgettable trip on the Tierra del Fuego Southern Railway train to the end of the world. This railway uses the original narrow-gauge line that was part of the small train for prisoners until 1947. Prisoners were housed in a maximum-security prison deep in the forest at the very end of solid land. Escape from the region was impossible with no one ever successfully escaping. They were forced to work to build the infrastructure of what is now Ushuaia. The train carried us to the farthest south land mass of the world. We bought postcards to send to our grandchildren, but we found the post office closed at the end of the world.

Postcards for our grandchildren

Upon arrival at the Park Station, we boarded a bus through Tierra del Fuego National Park to Lapataia Bay, marking the end of the 2,010 miles from Buenos Aires. A catamaran was waiting to return us to the ship via the Beagle Channel. En route, we saw the historic lighthouse, Les Eclaireurs, Seal Island, Isla de los Lobos, and Island of the Birds, whose names clearly express the rich wildlife we saw from the deck of the catamaran on our journey back to the ship.

Fin del Mundo lighthouse

From the bottom of the world, we sailed through the Magellan Straights and past Cape Horn. Because inquiring minds want to know, this is the closest we got to Antarctica, and, yes, it’s cold there. The high temperature was under 50 degrees F. We were blessed to have the best weather for such a journey. While on the Magellan Straight, we passed several magnificent glaciers, which we admired primarily from the inside. The passage through the Straights and past Cape Horn was early morning, and many people on the ship gathered on the deck to get pictures. The captain expertly navigated the ship through the most dangerous waters in the world while we looked on in awe.

Cape Horn

After traversing Cape Horn, we traveled on to Stanley, Falkland Islands. From the port, we traveled to a farm on a lagoon to discover a Gentoo penguin colony in their natural habitat. Upon arrival at the lagoon, we were met by rangers and were able to wander around the penguin colony and along the sandy white beach. Approximately 600 pairs of Gentoo penguins were there. The site was very photogenic, with a large lagoon and long sand beach, home to various seabirds, sea lions, and dolphins. There was a warm, comfortable place to rest where we enjoyed delicious homemade cookies (biscuits) with hot chocolate, tea, or coffee.

Our day was just getting started. We went from the farm, where we found penguins, to the town of Stanley.

The Falkland Islands have a land area of 4,700 sq mi (12,000 km2) and a coastline estimated at 800 mi (1,300 km). The archipelago consists of two main islands, West Falkland and East Falkland, and 776 smaller islands. The islands are predominantly mountainous and hilly. The major exception is the depressed plains of Lafonia (a peninsula forming the southern part of East Falkland). The Falklands Islands are located in the South Atlantic, about 300 mi (480 km) east of Patagonia in southern Argentina.

The Falkland Sound separates the archipelago’s two main islands, and its deep coastal indentations form natural harbors. East Falkland houses Stanley (the capital and largest settlement), The UK military base at RAF Mount Pleasant and the archipelago’s highest point, Mount Usborne, at 2,313 ft (705 m), is located here. Outside these significant settlements is the area colloquially known as “Camp,” derived from the Spanish term for countryside (Campo).

The island’s climate is cold, windy, and humid. Variability of daily weather is typical throughout the archipelago. Rainfall is common over half of the year, averaging 610 mm (24 in) in Stanley, and sporadic light snowfall occurs nearly all year. Stanley’s temperature has historically stayed between 21.1 and −11.1 °C (70.0 and 12.0 °F), with mean monthly temperatures varying from 9 °C (48 °F) early in the year to −1 °C (30 °F) in July. Strong westerly winds and cloudy skies are common. Although numerous storms are recorded each month, conditions are normally calm.

The Falkland Islands has about 2500 residents with more than 2000 living in Stanley. The islands are much bigger than we expected, with most of the territory covered with sheep farms. Here, we had no internet or telephone. Locals said they paid a high price for these things. The islands are British Territories following the Falkland Island Conflict, where Argentina tried to overthrow British rule in the eighties. Great Britain provides healthcare and education. The nation’s primary income is farming, with a small portion coming from tourism.

The town was charming, and we walked around to find the post office. We needed to mail our postcards to the grandchildren, and we were amazed that the cost to mail them was about USD 5 for all of them. Before returning to the ship, we visited an Anglican Church, a gift shop, and a museum.

After leaving Stanley, we spent Wednesday at sea. Sea days were spent relaxing and discovering the many activities and amenities aboard the ship. We found the library, and I was able to leave a copy of Murder in Eagle Cove for other passengers to enjoy.

I also participated several times in the evening Karaoke party. I was selected as a Karaoke Superstar and invited to sing with the B-12 band in the final competition. I didn’t win the competition; however, it was an honor to be selected to compete with a very talented group of seven other competitors. I will post my performance on my YouTube channel for anyone interested. The bigger thrill for me was being invited to sing with the ship’s piano guy, Jamison, in the atrium on the last night on board the ship. Jen and I had become fast friends with him while on board. We sought him out and enjoyed his music as often as possible. He and the guitar player, Angel, were both immensely talented and provided excellent entertainment.

The invitation to compete.
Singing with Jamison

Another notable thing we experienced while cruising was the food. We both enjoyed overindulging in the great drinks and meals. I am not a big fan of sharing pictures of our food, but sometimes I couldn’t resist taking a picture or two. We also came into our cabin each day to special treats which we were unsure who sent. We do know that other passengers did not share this special treat. We suspect the management crew, or our cruise consultant may have had something to do with it. Jen organized two special meet-and-greet events during the journey. Both had more than fifty attendees. We gave out cruise door magnets, and the management crew came in to introduce themselves to those attending.

Enjoying Cagney’s Steakhouse

After our sea day, we made port in Puerto Madryn, Argentina. It’s located in Chubut on the Gulfo Nuevo within the region of Patagonia. The town was first settled in 1865 by Welsh immigrants. Today, the Welsh community still thrives in and around Puerto Madryn, but people aren’t the only ones who call this remote region of the world home. It’s a popular destination for up close and personal marine life encounters. Many people go there in search of penguins, whales, and dolphins. We took off for the Provincial Wildlife Preserve Punta Loma. We visited a checkpoint for sea lions on the rocky desert cliff. The desert terrain was interesting, so close to the Atlantic Ocean. We explored there, finding Sea Lions on the rocks, before returning to town.

We sailed on for another day before docking at Montevideo, Uruguay’s energetic capital, where we browsed the Old City before checking out The Andes Museum 1972. It’s a museum dedicated to the plane accident that took place in the Andes in 1972 involving a group of Uruguayan rugby players, their friends, and relatives who were traveling to Chile when the airplane crashed. Some of them belonged to the Old Christians rugby club. The story of how they survived the tragedy was transmitted worldwide through books, documentaries, pictures, conferences, and inspiration for the film Alive.

The museum pays homage to the memory of the 29 people who died due to the plane accident in the Andes and to those who risked their lives to save the rest. It reminds us of those 16 Uruguayans who returned to life after 72 days in the Andes’s freezing weather conditions with no food or proper clothing. The museum displays objects, documents, and photographs related to the Andes Tragedy in 1972.

It may seem strange, but this was one of the places we visited that we talked about the most. We spent nearly two hours exploring the sad place, which seemed to house the ghosts of those lost in the tragedy.

After the Museum, we took a walking tour of Uruguay’s capital. There were markets, plazas, and people dancing in the square. Our guide showed us the gate to Old Town, the place where the Tango originated, the President’s office, the location where the Constitution was drafted, the Mausoleum and Monument to General Jose Gervasio de Artegas, and strolled with us down the plaza.

The following morning, we docked in Buenos Aires, Argentina. This was the last stop of the first leg of our cruise adventure. We remained onboard the ship while they performed the changeover. We were fortunate to stay in the same cabin for the remaining ten days to Rio.  We enjoyed the activities while watching a new group board the ship. It surprised us that the new cruisers differed greatly from those who made the initial transit. Only 113 people remained to continue to Rio. We rested for the night and took a tour of Buenos Aires the next morning before the ship departed on the second leg of our cruise adventure.

Buenos Aires is the largest city and capital of Argentina. It is known for its preserved eclectic European architecture and rich culture. Buenos Aires is home to multiple ethnic and religious groups contributing to its culture and dialect. Since the 19th century, the city and the country have been major recipients of millions of immigrants worldwide, making it a melting pot where several ethnic groups live together. Thus, Buenos Aires is considered one of the most diverse cities in the Americas.

We enjoyed an enlightening overview of Buenos Aires by visiting landmarks ranging from its most politically important square to its most characteristic neighborhoods. After departing the pier, we traveled to Plaza de Mayo, arguably the most famous square in Argentina. Its name refers to the revolution that began nearby in May 1810 and led to Argentina’s independence from Spain. Some of the surrounding buildings are just as celebrated. President Juan Peron and his wife Eva, more affectionately known as Evita, delivered numerous speeches from the balcony of Casa Rosado, the executive mansion. We saw the glorious Metropolitan Cathedral adorned with frescoes and elaborate artwork. Then, it was on to the neighborhood of La Boca to view El Caminito, a street that is an open-air museum of sorts full of brightly colored buildings. Some claim the tango originated here around 1870, and tango dancers were performing in the streets. While La Boca is a working-class neighborhood, Barrio Norte is the most affluent. That became immediately apparent as we drove through it. We had a nice tour of the Botanical Garden. On the way back to the pier, we went through leafy Palermo, the city’s largest neighborhood. We passed the zoo and Recoleta Cemetery while looking candidly at daily life in Buenos Aires.

After leaving Buenos Aires, the ship returned for another stop in Montevideo, Uruguay. We took the opportunity to journey back in time to visit Colonia del Sacramento, the oldest town in Uruguay and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s renowned for its quaint historic quarter lined with colorful houses and cobblestone streets reminiscent of old Lisbon. On the two-hour journey we visited a bull ring tucked into a small town along the way. We learned that bullfighting was only allowed for two years here (1910-1912). The facility has been beautifully restored and is now a convention facility.

We continued to drive through the lush countryside to the small city of Colonia del Sacramento, founded by the Portuguese in 1680 when Spain and Portugal were in the midst of conflicts. Both empires fought for over a hundred years until the Treaty of Saint Ildefonso finally awarded it to Spain. We discovered a rich cultural history as we crossed the drawbridge entrance into the old walled city, accompanied by our guide. We walked along winding streets lined with colorful colonial houses. We saw the San Francisco Convent, the Lighthouse, and the cathedral in the main square. We had an authentic lunch at a typical local restaurant and explored briefly before returning to the bus.

As we returned to the ship, I was taken aback by the landscape. Remember that in the southern hemisphere, the seasons are reversed from the north. We were experiencing weather and a climate similar to what would be considered late summer coming into fall. The area reminded me of late summer in Michigan. Green pastures, grazing cattle, and fields of sweet corn were everywhere.

We sailed overnight to Punta del Este, Uruguay, where we took a scenic drive through Punta del Este’s most interesting beaches and neighborhoods. We discovered two unique and very interesting art collections. The art and architecture treasure trove hidden here is a secret known only to a select few. Punta del Este is known as a world-class resort and jet-set destination. Driving from the harbor, we saw the Peninsula Brava Beach and the open-air collection of sculptures at Square of the Americas, among which The Hand is a city icon.

La Mano (The Hand)

Before arriving at the Ralli Museum, we passed through the residential areas of San Rafael, Golf Park, and Beverly Hills. Located in the emerald green setting of Beverly Hills, the museum houses a collection of works by Latin American painters and sculptors and European artists such as Salvador Dali. From there, we visited the Pablo Atchugarry Foundation, where we admired some impressive marble sculptures, among other works of art. This nonprofit organization has created a space of ideal union between art and nature. During our visit, we saw the artist’s workshop, exhibition halls, and a permanent collection and works of Pablo Atchugarry.

I took many pictures of these two amazing venues’ art and sculptures. I am sharing below some of our favorites. Forgive me for not captioning these pieces of art. We were on information overload after seeing hundreds of beautiful pieces of art. This is where I’m missing some of the many pictures. Each day I uploaded the photos from my camera to my computer over a questionable internet connection. I fear some treasured photos may be in cyberspace in the Southern Hemisphere.

We spent the following day at sea. The ship had magnificent laundry service for those who may wonder about laundry during our thirty-day expedition. We could have packed a little lighter had we known this in advance. We just left our dirty laundry for our cabin steward, and it came back laundered and folded in a nice basket the following day. As we moved north in the Atlantic, the weather became warmer. I was grateful for the clean laundry because the warmer it got, the fewer days I could get from a shirt.

After our sea day, we landed in Balneario (Camboriu), Brazil. It’s a coastal city in the southern Brazilian state of Santa Catarina, built on steep hills that drop down to the sea. It’s a popular tourist destination for South Americans drawn to its main ocean boulevard, Avenida Atlântica (Atlantic Avenue). This boulevard swells the city’s population from 145,796 (2020 census office estimate) to over one million in the summer. Balneário Camboriu is famous for its unique beach-to-beach cable car which links the city’s central beach with the beach of Laranjeiras. 

Notice the palms, indicating we’re returning to the tropics. At this stop, we had fun with an expedition taking us on the cable car that delivered us to a rain forest location just a short ride up the mountain from the central beach. We explored with our group before continuing on a different cable car to Laranjeiras Beach. We slipped into a bar for a bucket of beers and awaited our transportation to return us to the point of beginning (the central beach).  Our ride back was on a pirate ship. This tour was reminiscent of an adventure for children who would enjoy the Disney-like atmosphere far more than we did. It was fun, nevertheless.

Our next stop was in port at Santos in São Paulo, Brazil. It was founded in 1546 by the Portuguese nobleman Bras Cubas. It was located mostly on the island of São Vicente, which harbors both the city of Santos and the city of São Vicente, and partially on the mainland. It’s the main city in the metropolitan region of Baixada Santista. The population is 433,656 (2020 est.). The city is home to the Coffee Museum, where world coffee prices were once negotiated. A football memorial is also dedicated to the city’s greatest players, including Pele, who spent most of his career with Santos Futebol Clube. Our excursion began with a panoramic drive to the Coffee Museum through the historic city center. The former palace was inaugurated in 1922 to celebrate 100 years of Brazilian independence. The architecture of the building is unique in São Paulo State and includes a 120-foot clock tower and four statues representing Industry, Commerce, Production, and Navigation. Wall paintings recall the history of Santos from its early times to the present. The building was restored in 1998 and, since that time, has housed the Coffee Museum.

Continuing, we visited the Museum of the Santos Futebol Clube. The club’s history covers many chapters of the team’s glory and victories. FIFA has recognized the team as “the best 20th-century Team on the American Continent.”

We had more than enough time in the Pele Museum, so we wandered outside and across the street to find a magnificent Cathedral. There was a wedding about to take place, so we crashed it. The old couple being united was humored by our existence. They were about to walk the aisle when I grabbed these great pictures. The guide told us later that the white building on the hill was connected to the Cathedral by tunnels used to move clergy safely during the war.

The São Paulo Railway Station was nearby as well. I thought it was a beautiful building. We had friends who took a São Paulo tour by train. They left from there and found it wonderful.

We ended our time there with a visit to the cool, shady realm of the Botanical Gardens, where we strolled among giant subtropical and tropical trees and stopped to see the aviary with its macaws, toucans, and parrots. The Orchidarium and zoo were a letdown.

From the Botanical Orchid Zoo, we returned to the pier. The captain sailed overnight to deliver us to the next port, Ilhabela, Brazil.

In Ilhabela, Brazil, we were disappointed. The tour described a day on the amazing island discovering the peace of nature where our driver was our guide in a powerful open-air 4×4 Jeep. Following tendering to the downtown pier, we would set off through the island and “Mata Atlantica” rain forest on a 25-minute drive to 3 Tombos Waterfalls. The falls were the easiest to access, and it was possible to park nearby. The breathtaking waterfall was described as the most pleasant for bathing on the island.  Next, we would drive to Curral Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on the North Coast. There would be time here to enjoy the beach and take a swim.

The diesel smoke in the open-air vehicle was nearly intolerable. Our driver spoke no English, and the guide was assigned to two vehicles. I’ll let the pictures below speak for the three breathtaking waterfalls (there was one, which was far from breathtaking). The beach was packed with visitors, and one was expected to order food to secure a table or chair. Jen and I deserted this tour, taking a cab back to the ship. No offer was given to refund all or part of this expensive tour. I waited two days to make a complaint to the tour desk. I wanted to remain positive, but I also wanted the cruise line to know about the disappointing tour. On the bright side…we saw things we would never have seen otherwise.

I took no pictures at the beach…

After the cab dropped us off, we wandered the village at the pier for a few minutes. It was charming, but the boat called us back for a cool ice cream and lunch—not necessarily in that order.

It was great to be back in warm weather, and we relaxed on the ship’s deck for the remainder of the day before departing for an overnight transit to Ilha Grande, Brazil.

Ilha Grande, or “big island,” is a forested island located around 151 km (94 mi) off of the Atlantic coast of Angra dos Reis, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and about 450 km (280 mi) from Sao Paulo. A popular outdoor destination, the island remains largely undeveloped as much of the area falls within Ilha Grande State Park (Parque Estadual da Ilha Grande). Thus, the remainder of the island is subject to stringent development restrictions to preserve the natural environment; vehicles are not permitted, and roads are virtually non-existent. For visitors, an hour-long boat excursion is the sole way to access the island. Several small villas and hamlets cater to researchers, tourists, and nature lovers. Around 2,000 people inhabit the largest town on the island, Vila do Abraao.

For almost a century, the Brazilian government declared the island off-limits, banning unauthorized entry, as it had contained an immigration quarantine station and, later, a maximum-security prison (Colônia Penal de Dois Rios, later known as Instituto Penal Cândido Mendes). The Cândido Mendes Penal Colony, which housed some of the most dangerous offenders in Brazil, was closed in 1994.

The highest point on Ilha Grande is the 1,031 m (3,383 ft) tall Pico da Pedra D’Água.

On July 5, 2019, Ilha Grande and Paraty were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Here, we dared to take two great excursions. We tendered to the pier to sail on a schooner to Ilha Grande’s most idyllic snorkeling spots, the Blue Lagoon, and an isolated beach on the island’s north side. After departing from the pier in the schooner, we sailed off for the Blue Lagoon, a beautiful body of water known for its brilliant color and astounding clarity. During the hour it took to reach the lagoon, we enjoyed a unique perspective of Ilha Grande, taking in its densely forested shoreline. The entire island is protected environmentally, so nature reigns supreme. Upon arriving at the Blue Lagoon, we saw boaters feeding the fish with breadcrumbs, which attracted huge schools. The waters are typically calm and shallow, making the lagoon ideal for snorkeling. Countless species of tropical fish thrive here. The setting couldn’t have been more inviting. Sailing on, we passed Love Beach before coming upon beautiful Praia de Fora, another idyllic beach on the northern tip of Ilha Grande. We enjoyed its golden sand and strolled along the shore. This beach is pristine because of its remote location, and the vegetation is thick and lush right up to the sand. There was a church in the jungle near the beach. We swam for about an hour before sailing back to the pier.

Brazil 2024

Once back at the pier, we explored the Portuguese-founded island on foot. The bio-diverse wonderland was once notorious as a pirate refuge, leper colony, and Alcatraz-style prison. The prison, known as the “devil’s cauldron,” is now in ruins. As we departed the pier on foot, we were soon immersed in Ilha Grande State Park, a biological reserve established in 1971. Along the way, our guide discussed the park’s flora and fauna, which includes colorful parrots, exotic hummingbirds, and stout capybaras, the world’s largest rodent. Because the entire island is protected environmentally, it boasts one of South America’s most diverse ecosystems. Unfortunately, many of the animals are endangered. After pausing at the lovely San Sebastian church, we learned about Ihla Grande’s infamous past as an entry point for African slaves.  A photo opportunity awaited at Black Beach, a beautiful stretch of black sand because it contains so much dark quartz. In the mangrove there, I spotted blue crabs scurrying around. We had some free time to stroll along the shore of Preta Beach before following a trail to Ilha Grande’s old aqueduct, a beautiful structure partially covered with tropical vines. We then had an opportunity to visit a beautiful waterfall before returning to the pier.

The next day, we dropped anchor at Buzios, Brazil. Buzios is a wonderful resort town boasting many inviting beaches, and the Buzios Trolley was the perfect way to get acquainted with this idyllic peninsula. It was a short walk from the tender pier to the trolley, where, once aboard, we set off on a leisurely tour that included seeing twelve beaches and two belvederes. The trolley was open, providing unobstructed views and allowing us to drink in the invigorating pure air and feel the refreshing ocean breezes. As we traveled along the coast, we passed an amazing stretch of golden sand beaches, each highlighting why Buzios is becoming a sought-after destination. The delightful trolley navigation of Buzios included five photo stops and a drive through the downtown area. We found ourselves back at the tender pier after about two delightful hours.

Our Ship Anchored in the Bay

Our super adventure was winding down, and we made our final port at Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The last few days of our time in South America were spent exploring Rio. We took the morning to disembark, and our driver picked us up. He delivered us to our great hotel, only a block from the Copacabana Beach. During a guided tour, we unpacked and explored the rural neighborhood of Santa Teresa and downtown Ancient Rio. When the tour group arrived to pick us up, we were surprised to find the van contained a group of doctors and their spouses from our cruise. In Ancient Rio, we visited the France Brazil House, Arcos da Lapa, Teles Arches, and Praça XV. In Santa Teresa, we admired the stately mansions from the early 1900s and viewed the neighborhood’s original tram, built in 1897. We learned about the importance of both of these neighborhoods in Rio’s past through commentary from our guide. The guide walked us through this iconic neighborhood, stopping briefly at a local art gallery. 

The driver picked us up and drove us through the area to our second stop, Centro Cultural Municipal Parque das Ruinas, the former home of Laurinda Santos Lobo, a preeminent female art supporter. The Parque das Ruínas is now a cultural center that continues its legacy of supporting artists everywhere. 

From the Cultural Center we wandered together through the beautiful old neighborhood of old downtown Rio. The beautiful architecture, parks, and fountains were amazing. We stopped at the Mother of Merchant of Lapa church during our walk. During our journey through South America, I was surprised to find the churches always open to the public. This particular church was beautifully restored to its original turn-of-the-century beauty. The fantastic fresco on the ceiling was freshly restored with the painter working above to finish the work.

Our last stop of the evening was Confeitaria Columbo. The confections, coffee, ice cream, and light snacks there were delightful. We had a light dinner and Red Velvet Cake. The driver delivered us back to our hotel, where we crashed with exhaustion.

Love These Signs

The following morning, we got up early for an epic full-day tour of Rio. Our tour company had selected the best tourist spots in Rio de Janeiro to visit with a unique and dynamic itinerary. The local guide maximized the experience, telling us more curiosities and historical facts about the city. 

Our morning started at the Sugarloaf Mountain cable car (Bondinho). Sugarloaf is one of the city’s most beautiful and famous icons. It’s located at the entrance to the city’s Guanabara Bay. It consists of two local lookout points with breathtaking views: Urca Hill (Morro da Urca), which is 227 meters high, and Sugar Loaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar), which is 170 meters higher.

The cable car delivered us to our first stop at Urca Hill, halfway up Sugarloaf. We spent some time there before continuing to the summit of Sugar Loaf, where we could see Botafogo Bay, Guanabara Bay, Pedra da Gavea Mountain, Sea Ridge (Serra do mar), and the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean.

We observed people climbing the mountain, but most, like us, take the cable car.

At the top, we ran into more friends from our cruise. The world is so small these days that there are people with whom we traveled who will be lifelong friends. Many of them have expressed interest in visiting us. Sales for my new Retired in Panama book spiked as people returned home following the cruise. I was sorry I didn’t have copies to share during the cruise.

Following the visit to Sugar Loaf, our morning went on at lightning speed. The driver picked us up and whisked us to Escadaria Selaron. The colorful tiled steps are in the Lapa neighborhood. Therefore, locals call them Lapa Steps (Escadaria da Lapa). It’s the work of Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón (1947-2013), his tribute to the Brazilian people. He moved to Rio in 1980 and lived in a house next to the stairs to the Convent of Santa Teresa. It took him 20 years to decorate the 215 stairs. This is one of the attractions in Rio that you must not miss. The colorful steps were covered with tiles from all over the world. We paused here to take pictures and look for tiles from other places we’ve visited. We did find the Panama Canal tile. As you can see in the pictures, the place was very crowded. I understand it is like that all day, every day…go early for the best experience.

Escadaria Selaron

I felt sorry for the bus driver, who had a devil of a time navigating the bus through the crowd to pick us up at the base of the stairs. Once we got the group aboard, we traveled to The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Sebastian. The unusual structure made it one of the most remarkable sights we saw.

The Rio de Janeiro Cathedral, also known as the Metropolitan Cathedral of Sao Sebastiao, stands out among the city’s buildings. The church has a unique structure that leaves people marveling. Everyone who visits is surprised by its history and appearance.

When I looked at the church from the outside, my first thought was it could not be a catholic church because there are no traditional symbols of the Catholic Church. There’s no cross at the top; however, just like all catholic churches, the Rio de Janeiro has a cross as its ultimate symbol. We could see the cross at the top, at the center of a circle, when we stepped inside the church. The cross made of transparent material illuminated light that spread throughout the church, representing the presence of God among his people.

The Cross

The cathedral has four stained glass windows positioned according to the cardinal points. They approve of the cathedral’s purpose and confirm the church’s four fundamental characteristics: One, Holy, Catholic, and Apostle. One, on the window, is represented by the color green, meaning unity of the church; Holy in red illustrates sanctification and sanctification; Catholic in blue refers to the church’s mission to save men; and Apostolic in yellow alludes to the hierarchy of the Catholic Church.

Conical in form, the cathedral has 96 meters of internal diameter, 106 meters of external diameter, and an overall height of 75 meters. The area is 8000 square meters inside the church and has a capacity of 20,000 people while standing and 5000 while seated. The cathedral’s four windows run 64 meters from the floor to the ceiling, meeting at the top to form a cross.

Edgar de Oliveira da Fonseca, a Brazilian architect, designed the cathedral. The modern style was based on the Mayan architectural style of the Pyramids. Despite the modern pyramid structure, the Mayan architecture dates back several thousands of years. The Mesoamerican pyramids are similar to the Egyptian ones but have a flat top. This was the New World structure used while constructing the cathedral. Most churches in Rio are Gothic in style.

We departed the Cathedral for lunch. Our trip to our lunch location included a brief stop at the Maracanã Stadium. The stadium could be seen from many of the places we visited because of its massive structure. I captured it from above in many photographs and was intrigued by it. Completed in 1950, it is the home stadium of the football clubs Flamengo and Fluminense.

The first impression of visiting Maracanã Stadium is its size. It is among the largest football stadiums in the world, though its capacity has been significantly reduced over the years due to multiple renovations. Built for the World Cup in 1950, it could hold 200,000 standing spectators. The final official attendance of that year’s World Cup between Uruguay and Brazil was 173,830 fans, although some estimates. However, actual attendance was closer to 210,000—a record attendance at a World Cup match that is unlikely to be broken. Brazil lost the game in a shocking upset, and mad Brazilian fans still remember the defeat as the Maracanaço (the Maracanã blow).

The Stadium was designed by seven Brazilian architects, including Raphaël Galvão and Pedro Paulo Bernardes Bastos. It was renamed in 1966 in honor of the journalist who had campaigned successfully to build a new stadium for the 1950 World Cup. While the stadium has been primarily used for football, it has also been used for exhibition matches for other sports, and Pope John Paul II conducted three Masses there. The stadium is also a regular concert venue.

Monument to Hilderaldo Bellini in front of the Stadium

Bellini was honored with a statue at the stadium entrance depicting him lifting the 1958 World Cup trophy. At the end of his international career from 1957 to 1966 with Brazil, he earned 51 caps, captaining the team during the 1958 World Cup in Sweden.

After a wonderful lunch on our tour, we continued to what most people visit Rio to see…Corcovado. The most iconic landmark in Rio is located at the peak of Corcovado Mountain in Tijuca Forest National Park. The Christ the Redeemer statue opened in 1931, and today, it is the best-known symbol of Brazil, in addition to being one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The imposing statue is 32 meters tall and weighs 1,145 tons. We took the elevator and escalators to the base of the statue.

Christ the Redeemer

On our last day in Rio, we got up early (4:30 a.m.) to see the sunrise at the Dona Marta Lookout. It was a great visual and photographic experience, suitable for those who want to be at a considerable height and have amazing photos without climbing the Pedra da Gávea.  From the top, we saw Guanabara Bay, Niterói, Sugar Loaf Mountain, the Lagoon, and Christ the Redeemer right before our eyes with open arms. The day was a bit cloudy, but our guide took over 200 pictures of us enjoying the sunrise. We shared this place with about fifty others, including a small bridal party. We had to work around the others to get some of the most special photos of our adventure.

The guide delivered us back to our hotel in time for breakfast. We ate and took off on foot to explore Copacabana Beach. The beach is lovely, and a famous wavy mosaic sidewalk is all along the beachfront. Every year, more than two million people go to Copacabana Beach to celebrate New Year’s Eve and watch the most traditional fireworks display in Rio de Janeiro. We strolled to one end and back in time for a light snack and cool drink before meeting the guide for our last excursion in Rio.

The Tijuca National Forest is one of the largest urban rainforests in the world, set on mountain slopes just west of the City of Rio de Janeiro. With this tour, we discovered two of the city’s nature sites, starting with a guided walk through the Jardim Botanical Gardens. The gardens were created by Dom Joao VI in 1808 when the Royal Family of Portugal came to Brazil. There are plant species from several parts of the world. The highlights were the orchid nursery and the rare imperial palms, many over 150 years old.  Our tour included Turtle Lake, the Orchid House, and the Japanese Sensory Garden.

We then toured through Tijuca Forest to learn more about the native plants and wildlife.  At nearly 4,000 hectares, corresponding to approximately 3.5% of the total municipal area of Rio, Tijuca Forest National Park offers Atlantic Forest attractions and vestiges of Brazil’s history. Tijuca Forest is considered the largest urban forest in the world and is home to exotic and rare species of Brazilian fauna and flora. We stopped to take in the view from the Chinese Vista. 

During the 19th century, Rio de Janeiro and its surrounding countryside experienced a constant influx of Chinese immigrants, most of whom arrived as part of a concerted effort to cultivate tea across the region. While, to a large extent, the local tea industry never matured to become globally successful, the Chinese community still left a significant mark on the local culture and history. At the very beginning, when a series of tea plantations were established around the city, a group of migrants from China paved a curvy road across the Tijuca rainforest, connecting Alto da Boa Vista with Jardim Botânico. The road, built to facilitate the movement of goods, was originally embellished with a thatched roof structure nicknamed “Casa das Chinas” (the house of the Chinese).

In 1903, the then mayor Rio Periera Passos, together with the office of forestry, tasked architect Luís Rey with replacing the makeshift shed with a brand-new oriental-style gazebo that paid tribute to the Chinese coolies. Nestled atop the wooded foothills of the Serra da Carioca cliff, the pagoda features a couple of slender beams and columns reminiscent of bamboo culms. Perhaps its most striking part is its pair of light roofs, whose gutters are beautifully decorated with a gargoyle-shaped spout.

Thanks to its scenic location, about 380 meters above sea level, Vista Chinesa is blessed with some of Rio’s most spectacular views. Among the notable places visitors can see are the Christ the Redeemer statue, the Sugarloaf Mountain, Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, the golden beach strip of Ipanema, Leblon, and Morro Dois Irmãos. The timing was perfect for this brief stop. Jen and I reminisced over our wonderful time in Rio while pointing out the places we visited from the magnificent viewpoint.

Vista Chinesa

It was time to travel to our last official site of the tour, Taunay Waterfall. The falls were a delight, and we were surprised to find such a place inside urban Rio.

Taunay Waterfall at the Tijuca National Forest

We spent our last evening in Rio having a quiet dinner and taking an Uber back the hotel to pack. Our driver picked us up early and delivered us to the airport for our flight home.

I realize that I have written more than some of you will read. I spent the time and effort as much for myself as the readers. This gave me time to reflect on our adventure and put the trip in perspective. The blog posts from the past six years of retiring and adventuring in and from Panama are better than a photo album to me. If you haven’t read the blog before now, feel free to go back and explore the archives. It is a great time to subscribe so you will not miss any of our adventures. Next month, we will have some great friends to explore with here in Panama. In June, we’re excited to host our granddaughter, who will want to see more of the country.

Victoria Kavos

Our adventures will take to the world again in September. I’ve been invited to a writers’ conference in Greece. Following the conference, we will meet friends in Athens and cruise to Venice, Italy. Look forward to some great posts from there.

In November we will be taking another cruise adventure of the Caribbean, which will land in Miami. From Miami we will take another item from my bucket list and spend several days in Cuba. You can bet there will be another blog post then.

I won’t even go into our plans for next year. I hope that each of you will sign up to get my weekly newsletter while visiting the blog. The newsletter is published free every Monday, primarily keeping readers up to date on the news from Coronado, Panama. It also gives readers great information about upcoming books and offers. I expect to publish the second mystery thriller of the Detective Larry Saunders Series in October. I’m also working on a Fonda Cookbook, which I hope to have available soon. If you don’t know what a fonda is check out Retired in Panama. There’s an entire chapter there about Panama’s sidewalk eating establishments. Writing and sharing is as much an adventure for me as physically getting aboard a ship or plane and taking off for destinations around the world.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#WeLovePanama

Musings from Peru

Ready for Takeoff

Jen and I maintain that living in Panama is perfect for exploring our bucket list of world destinations. In early December, we headed for Peru to check off a destination that got stuck in cold storage during COVID-19.

We landed in Lima, a port city in the desert with a huge population and dozens of great things to explore. This would be a stopover on our way to Cusco, where we would base while exploring Machu Picchu, Incan ruins, Rainbow Mountain, and more. While in Lima, we saw some great parks, a museum, magnificent dancing fountains, and a mall built into the side of a cliff overlooking the Pacific. We found that transportation outside our prearranged tours was easy and cheap by using Uber.

Christmas Tree at Larcomar Mall Lima
The park above the Larcomar Mall

On day one in Lima, we had a little time to explore and found a great mall constructed on the side of a cliff overlooking the Pacific. When the Uber driver delivered us to the mall he asked if the location was suitable. I didn’t see the mall…only a park. The mall was situated below the park at street level and couldn’t be seen from the street. He told us to take the moving stairs down.  After a short walk through the park, we found the escalator leading down to one of the most amazing shopping destinations we have ever experienced. We didn’t buy anything due to our luggage restrictions, which were coming in a few days when we would be traveling on three domestic flights within the country. We found a restaurant and had lunch before returning to the hotel to prepare for our evening. The tour company was picking us up for the Magic Water Circuit by Night.

Magic Water Circuit by Night.
Magic Fountain

Jen and I had a private tour on this one, and the guide was everything you hope for when booking such an excursion. The Magic Water Circuit occupies a complex of green spaces of 180,000 square meters with thirteen ornamental fountains and striking lighting effects that have set the Guinness Record for the largest fountain complex in the world in a public park. The crowds reminded me of Disney. The people were gathering with friends and family to enjoy this magical place. The main pool of the circuit had a fountain that shot water to heights of eighty meters. A crown of vertical jets created fantasy multi-colored laser projections, while the vast central dome water formed the image of a Lily flower.

The main attraction was the “Fuente de la Fantasia,” a cybernetic pool 120 meters long that, thanks to technology, turned water into a dance and color show. The crowds at this fountain were easily ten people deep, making it difficult to get great pictures. Pictures would not do it justice in any case, as it was like a moving picture on the face of a fountain.

We captured pictures of nearly all 13 as we proceeded through the maze of beautiful fountains.  The tour was awesome.

It was a bit cold in Lima to get wet, but we made the trek through the center of the fountain Tunnel of Surprises in the video above. We emerged mostly dry, with the tour guide right behind us.

The next morning, Jen and I were up early with plenty of time for breakfast, a walk in the park across the street, and a visit to an art gallery hosting a unique collection of art called Erosion. It was the last day of the exhibit, and we felt fortunate to have been able to see it. The other really neat thing about our hotel’s location is that great restaurants and shops surrounded the park, unofficially called cat park, and it was full of cats who made it their home. People there feed them, and they seemed more than comfortable to make the park their home. There was an exhibit in the park of local artists displaying and selling their work.

Officially, our tour group was twelve people with whom we would spend most of the first few days in Peru. Jen and I traveled a day early, allowing us that fabulous first-day tour of the magic fountains. On day two, we caught up with the remainder of our group for a tour of Lima’s Colonial Center, the Major Square, the Government Palace, the Cathedral Basilica, the Archbishop’s Palace, and the Municipality of Lima.

Our first tour group

We had upgraded our accommodations and selected some upgraded tour experiences, so you will see another couple, Lee and Chelle, with whom we spent most of the time. They also selected some upgrades. We met them that second day in the hotel lobby while waiting for the tour bus.

The afternoon tour was filled with beautiful architecture and great information about Peru. Our guide was the same as the previous night, and we were happy to have her back. She was a fountain of knowledge (no pun intended). A picture paints a thousand words, so I will shamelessly share many amazing pictures without much commentary here. It seems like it was a lifetime ago that we had this tour. It started in The Gran Hotel Bolivar in Colonial Square, which hosted many celebrities and dignitaries. It continued through the Colonial Center, ending in the Convent of San Francisco. In Colonial Peru, a convent was home to Priests.

After the walking tour of the Colonial Center, our tour guide continued to give us details of the history and culture of Lima on our ride back to our hotels in the Miraflores neighborhood. On the ride, one of the other people on tour, a self-proclaimed foodie, told us that one of the top-rated restaurants in the world was near our hotel. They had tried to get in, but it was booked months in advance. With an appetite from a long day of exploring, Jen and I set out on foot for dinner after being dropped off at the hotel. We were grateful for the safe neighborhood. We walked a few blocks to a restaurant recommended by our guide. The food in Peru was good. We avoided a few things, like the guinea pig, at the advice of the tour operator.

Our first domestic flight to Cusco.

The following morning, we had breakfast, and the tour company picked us up for our domestic flight to Cusco. The flight was relatively short, taking us from the desert climate just above sea level in Lima to the highest altitude commercial airport in the world at Cusco. The altitude in Cusco is just over 11,150 feet above sea level. From the airport in Cusco, we were whisked away to Sacred Valley, where they left us at our hotels. Sacred Valley is at a slightly lower altitude than Machu Picchu, which is just under 8,000 feet. We had the remainder of the day free to acclimate to the altitude. Our hotel was a fifteenth-century monastery, San Agustin Monasterio de la Recoleta. It was a bit off the beaten path. We found cocoa tea available, which we sipped to make the altitude more bearable. Many people in the tour group took drugs for altitude sickness. Experts say to avoid alcohol and red meat while keeping portions small and consuming extra water to avoid altitude sickness. Jen and I took the advice of the experts and took a regimen of an herbal remedy, which we picked up at the pharmacy in Lima. Our struggle with the altitude was minimal. We had a light dinner in the hotel and turned in early to rest for our tour of Machu Picchu the following day.

One of the upgrades was our accommodations at the San Agustin de la Recoleta. Another was the magnificent 360-degree Vistadome train ride to Aguas Calientes, where we would board a passenger bus for the fifteen-minute ride to the base of Machu Picchu.

We were delighted by the mountain vistas on the train ride, which lasted almost two hours. We were served coffee and a snack while enjoying a cultural performance of actors dressed in period Incan costumes. The train ride seemed short, with the beautiful views touching nearly all of our senses. After leaving the train, we boarded the passenger bus, which navigated the remainder of the trip to Machu Picchu. The bus traversed the steep mountain road, weaving through many switchbacks. This is the only way to reach Machu Picchu for old people. Traditionally, people will hike the Inca Trail to the ruins. Hiking the Inca Trail is difficult, and hikers need adequate physical preparation. Some sections of the route are more difficult than others, involving steep ascents, high altitudes, and long days on the trail.

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is the most famous and one of the best hikes in South America. Few routes can compete with it, as it contains along its route several archaeological sites over 500 years old and mountains that leave you with your mouth open. History tells us that the Inca Empire stretched across territories in what is now Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Brazil, and Bolivia, and the original trail extended approximately 25,000 miles through these areas.

During the 15th and 16th centuries, the Inca Trail was used as a key trade route and for transportation. However, some parts were also used for ceremonial purposes. Therefore, there are many fascinating theories about the purpose of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, built at the height of the Inca Empire. Researchers believe it served as an annual pilgrimage route in honor of Inti, the Inca Sun God, who is believed to have been born on the Island of the Sun in Lake Titicaca. The trail is said to follow the path of the Sun’s rays during certain times of the year, from Lake Titicaca to Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is extensive as it covers all of Peru and reaches Ecuador in the north and Bolivia in the south, but if we talk about the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, it takes 2 to 4 days to cover. To hike this route to Machu Picchu, the Peru government requires you to hire an authorized guide service or tour company with the necessary permits to take hikers on the trip.

I advise you to take this adventure while still young enough to hike on the Inca Trail. For our purposes, my only regret was that we didn’t get the permit for the hike to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain, the highest mountain behind the Inca citadel. This incredible excursion takes approximately 4 hours round trip, starting at the citadel of Machu Picchu, walking through the Inca Trail hidden under the forest, and reaching the top of this impressive mountain. The government allows only 400 people per day to make this hike.

The summit of Machu Picchu Mountain

My research indicated that you would find yourself surrounded by a variety of flowers and wildlife, including orchids, begonias, ferns, and beautiful hummingbirds, while enjoying the exceptional view of the citadel of Machu Picchu, the Urubamba River flowing below and all the sacred mountains surrounding Machu Picchu.

The Machu Picchu Mountain has a special meaning for the Incas. Below this mountain, two rivers from the most sacred mountains of the Incas come together in a confluence. From the south runs the Urubamba River that rises in the Ausangate area, and from the west comes the Aobamba River that rises in the Salkantay Mountain. For this reason, the Machu Picchu Mountain becomes a monument of worship to the sacred waters.

Reaching the top of this mountain requires moderate climbing ability, as there are parts where it is very steep, but it is not considered dangerous. The hiking trail is well maintained; it is a paved path with many steps, although it zigzags in places.

Many tourists who climb Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain consider the latter to have a beautiful view. Still, Huayna Picchu is the better option in terms of Inca engineering.

The tour of the main sites of Machu Picchu took us about two hours. There are days when we were told the ruins can be very crowded. Tickets are limited to 2500 sold per day. Many of the important sites of Machu Picchu are no longer accessible on a single ticket. For example, the entrance of Huayna Picchu will require a separate ticket.

The Sanctuary of Machu Picchu is considered one of the most beautiful and mystical places of the Inca Empire. It is located between the mountains of Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. Walking among the ancient walls, gates, paths, and stairways gives a unique feeling to this archaeological site, which will transport you back many centuries. Spanish conquerors never reached Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu was declared a Peruvian Historic Sanctuary in 1982 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. In 2007, Machu Picchu was voted one of the World’s New Seven Wonders in a worldwide internet poll.

On the day we were there, the weather was cool and misty. The crowds were tolerable, and our tour was a delight. I cultivated some of the history and information above from www.machu-picchu.org and Wikipedia. The guides are a wealth of information; however, remembering everything they share is nearly impossible. We left this magical place and returned to our hotel. It was late when we returned, and we turned in early for an early return to Cusco the next morning.

On day six of our adventure, we traveled back to Cusco. The tour company delivered us to our hotel, and we took the opportunity to explore a bit and grab some lunch. The Plaza de Armas, or Main Plaza, is one of the main tourist attractions of the city of Cusco. We found it about four blocks from our hotel. Here, we found a couple of great Peruvian restaurants, shops, and a flurry of activity. Several religious temples (the Cathedral, the Church of the Society of Jesus, and the Chapel of Triumph) are accompanied by beautiful portals with colonial arches. The square was decorated for Christmas, and we were lucky to witness some traditional celebrations during our visits there. The walk was easy, and we felt safe even at night.

Jen and I had arranged a Pisco Tasting Experience for the early evening. Most visitors to Peru only try the national liquor mixed into a Pisco Sour. Our Pisco tasting tour offered a deeper insight through tastings of different varieties and infused Pisco’s. We learned to taste and pair Pisco properly and how to mix a classic Pisco Sour and Chilcano cocktail. Small appetizer dishes accompanied the tastings.

Jose closed the class by presenting several Piscos infused with different things. We particularly enjoyed the ghost pepper-infused Pisco. However, the fruits were delightful as well. We will be infusing some Pisco when we return to Panama. Pisco is not widely available in the United States. It’s produced in Peru and Argentina; however, the Argentinian Pisco may not be as good. Look for it to be crystal clear (not yellow).

Jose is very passionate about the birds of Peru and conducts birdwatching tours. He shared something of great importance to him. He informed us that 20% of the proceeds from our class help fund the Avistando Peru Project—the first channel in Peru that promotes birdwatching in Spanish among Peruvians. Participation helps make a significant impact on the environment and nature conservation in Peru. The aim is to combat ongoing pollution, illegal logging, wildlife hunting, and other factors threatening our world.

Following the Pisco Experience, we returned to our hotel and prepared for a full day of tours on day seven. Our time in Peru was moving at warp speed, and we were exhausted.

We were impressed with our accommodations in Cusco. It was part of the upgrade plan. The Hotel Xima was beautiful and comfortable but convenient and in a location where we could walk to almost everything. There was a huge artisan market and a park across the street. There were also many restaurants within walking distance and a nice Peruvian Restaurant in the hotel lobby. The breakfasts were good, and the staff was attentive.

We woke up early, rested for adventure, and had breakfast in the hotel before meeting our tour group for the last day we would spend together. The tour company had us touring many interesting places. Our first stop, Tambomachay, is an Inca archaeological site outside Cusco. Its precise function is unknown, but it may have served as a ceremonial site, an Inca spa, or a military outpost—or perhaps a mix of all three.

It sits on a hill about 4 miles north of Cusco, about 12,150 feet above sea level. The structure consists of three stepped terraces of precise Inca stonework, with trapezoidal niches built into some retaining walls. The whole thing is built over a natural spring, continuously feeding a series of small aqueducts, canals, and waterfalls built into the terraces.

As with so many Incan archaeological sites, there’s a strong possibility that Tambomachay served more than one purpose. It was easy to imagine it as a military outpost, a ceremonial center, or a spa for overworked Inca rulers. We quickly learned that the Inca empire stretched for what is now several countries and approximately 2500 miles of trails connecting hundreds of ruins similar to Machu Picchu. It is believed that Cusco was the center of the Incan Empire.

From Tambomachay, our group traveled to an alpaca farm. The farm sat behind a textile store where we learned about the raising and manufacturing of Alpaca, Vicuna, Cuanaco, and Llama wool. Baby Alpaca garments are made from only the first shearing of the Alpaca. We learned to tell the difference and purchased some Baby Alpaca gloves for our upcoming trip around South America in March. The weather at Cape Horn will require some warm garments.

Our next stop was the ruins at Saqsaywaman, a former Inca fortress perched atop the hill above Cusco, an ancient ruin with an eye-catching landscape. On a clear day, the views over the city and valley will take your breath away.

Saqsaywaman is an extraordinary site with three terraces built by the Incas for fortification purposes. Moreover, Saqsaywaman is a part of UNESCO sites in the Cusco area.

Fitting the huge boulders with surgical precision was the Inca’s trademark, and this site has some excellent structures proving this point. And the Incas did all this precise work without using a mortar. More than twenty thousand workers moved the massive chunks of stone from the local quarries without the knowledge of the wheel is just another mind-blowing piece of trivia.

Without any doubt, Saqsaywaman is one of the best ruins in Cusco.

Our next visit was another interesting Inca site, Q’enco. The rock carving done here is quite a feat. Floors, ceilings, walls, tables, and niches were carefully carved from living rock. Without a doubt, it was a place of worship for secret and hidden rites. The site builders completed their composition with service rooms on the perimeter. It also has platforms and channels for the evacuation of rainwater.

The mystery of the Andean cult is one of the attractions of the Inca culture. The so-called “Room of Sacrifices” creates doubts that have not yet been resolved. It is an underground chamber carved entirely out of a gigantic rock. The lower portion of the great rocky area has carved floors, ceilings, walls, tables, cupboards, and openings. It is said that this underground chamber may have been used to embalm dried apricots, but it is also possible that human and animal sacrifices were carried out there.

Our guide explained that important Inca leaders may have been buried here, with the common people being buried in graves nearby. He believes the “Room of Sacrifices” may have been a simple embalming room where the dead were prepared for burial. The platform in the chamber was very cold to the touch, making it an excellent place to perform this task.

We took the trail through the site, which led us through the Morticians Chamber and to a magnificent view of Cusco. The driver picked us up at the end of the trail.

We moved on to our next stop at Coricancha. It’s a place you can’t miss in Cusco for its amazing construction and the historical treasure adorning its walls. When the Spanish arrived in Cusco, they destroyed most of Coricancha, and the Santo Domingo Church was built on the foundations and the remaining walls of the temple, preserving only a small part of its indigenous beauty. These ruins are located in Santo Domingo Plaza in Cusco.

Coricancha was the center of Cusco in more ways than just geographical. It was also the religious center, a sacred place where appreciation was shown for Inti, the Inca Sun God. It was the only temple that existed for religious ceremonies and was the most sacred temple of all the Incas. To enter the temple, worshippers needed to have been barefoot, fasting, and carrying a heavy load upon their backs as a sign of humility to the god.

Many historians have written that once the Spanish arrived in Cusco, they were blinded by its grandeur; every wall was covered with a layer of gold, and there were deities everywhere to celebrate the different gods of the Inca Empire, such as a silver depiction of the Moon Goddess. The concentration of the precious metals made the whole area shine. There were animal figures made entirely from gold filling the gardens, and the Spaniards had never seen so much gold in one place before. Most of these pieces were sent to the King of Spain as a ‘thank you’ for allowing the expeditions to South America to take place.

We continued to the Cathedral of Cusco. No pictures were allowed inside the Cathedral. It was so beautiful that it left a lump in my throat. Regardless of your religious belief, this is one place that you don’t want to miss.

It has splendid altars of Renaissance, Baroque, and neoclassical styles. Its carved wooden pulpit and the choir stalls are magnificent works of Cusquenian craftsmanship. It also highlights its collection of canvases of the Cuzco school with works by Diego Quispe Tito, Basilio Santa Cruz Pumacallo, Basilio Pacheco, and Marcos Zapata, creator of a unique “last supper” in which the main dish is roasted guinea pig. The Sacristy is decorated with several paintings of the bishops who have ruled the Archbishopric of Cusco. The choir of the Cathedral is built of cedar wood, Baroque with Neoclassical style. The main altar of the Cathedral was decorated with the most important colonial gold and silver work in South America, using more than 1250 kilos of silver. There are around 300 paintings, which were the inspiration of different indigenous, mestizo, and European artists.

Cathedral of Cusco

This was the last stop with our original tour group. The tour company delivered us to our hotels after we visited Plaza de Armas (The Main Plaza). Our guide for the day shared a great photo of the group below. A couple of people were missing from the day’s tour. After a week in Peru, many were exhausted, and a few were under the weather or suffering from the altitude.

The other couple, Lee and Chelle, who were on the upgrade plan, went with us to a dinner that the tour company had organized. This replaced something that had to be canceled due to a shortage of interest. The four of us were picked up and transported to a restaurant on the main square. Our dinner and show were included in the package. While the show was entertaining, the authentic Peruvian food was not so good. It was good to have this opportunity to visit with them again before they departed. With the entire group leaving early the next morning, Jen and I would have two more days to adventure in Cusco.

We wished Lee and Chelle a fond farewell in the hotel lobby before leaving for the night. Jen and I had a couple of tours planned for our bonus days in Cusco. We wanted to be fresh and rested. The best was yet to come. If you’re thinking that this is a long post, you’re right. Don’t leave now, or you’ll miss the best of our Peru adventure. Still to come are more great Inca Ruins, the Salt Flats at Maranas, Rainbow Mountain, the Amazon Rain Forest, and purchasing some souvenirs along with Baby Alpaca treasures.

The next morning, we got up and had breakfast in the hotel. Our tour guide picked us up in front of the hotel, and off we went on a tour that ended up being private. When tours don’t fill up, they often cancel them, but in this case, we had the driver and tour guide all to ourselves. Our first adventure was at another textile place. We spent about a half hour sipping Cocoa Tea, learning about Alpaca wool, and shopping a bit. The people working here were all dressed in costume and had a great selection of things. The prices weren’t the best we had seen, and we were still timid about purchasing much before our final two domestic flights. We didn’t want to be overweight. We found one Baby Alpaca table runner that we bought.

Our next destination was our last Inca ruin, possibly one of the most unusual and memorable. Moray is believed to have served as an important agricultural research center for the Incas, demonstrating their advanced ability to cultivate various crops in the challenging Andean environment.

The site is best known for its three groups of circular terraces. Each of these terraces has 12 levels, with the largest depression having a spectacular diameter of 600 feet. From the highest terrace to the lowest, the descent is about 490 feet, making the Moray ruins one of the most fascinating man-made sites.

Many archaeologists and anthropologists believe the Moray ruins were once used for agricultural experiments. Some of the evidence that supports that is the extensive irrigation system (fueled by water from a reservoir located high in the mountains) engineered into the terraces.

Another fascinating observation is the temperature difference. From the highest to the lowest terrace, the temperature differs by 41 °F, and the sun hits each terrace at different angles and intensities.

The microclimate at Moray likely allowed the Incas to do agricultural research and identify the best conditions for crops to thrive. Even more, all this suggests that the Incas utilized their knowledge of the environment to capitalize on their natural resources.

While there is no written evidence, based on the agricultural practices in the Andean region, the Incas likely farmed crops such as potatoes and quinoa, as well as Amazonian plants suited to milder temperatures. Corn was likely another major crop cultivated at Moray due to its significance in different religious ceremonies in the Inca Empire.

The Entrance to the Salt Pools

From Moray, we continued to the salt mines of Maras. Like a blanket of snow covering the slopes of Andean mountains, they extend beautifully into the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It’s a spectacular view of more than 300 pools in various colorful shades. The salt mines are located in an orogenic depression called “Cachi Raqay,” a Quechua term that translates into Spanish means “salt gorge.” This gorge is located on the slopes of the Cruzmoqo mountain and at the base of the Llaully Moqo and Chupayoq Moqo mountains.

In the 1980s, the people of Maras took possession of the salt mines. They established the company Marasal S.A., owned by the communities of Maras and Pichingoto, which is responsible for managing and marketing salt for the domestic and world markets. Today, about 400 families own the salt pools. Each family manages their pools, contributing to the positive economy of the area.

On our last full day in Cusco, Jen and I enjoyed the best time in Peru. Our day started at 4:00 a.m. when the tour operator picked us up.  After two and a half hours, we stopped in the town of Japura for breakfast. Most of the way, the tour bus had been quiet while we and the eight other adventurers tried to get some sleep on the ride.

Rainbow Mountain

We were bound for Rainbow Mountain, a painted land unlike any other. The sweeping valley of vibrant colors, ranging from lavender, turquoise, and red, causes one to wonder how this is possible. The vibrant coloration in Rainbow Mountain’s layers is largely due to the weather and mineralogy. The red-tinted layers often indicate iron oxide rust as a trace mineral. Think of it like this: you know how a nail will rust and turn red when oxidized? The same reaction happens here. Specific sediment that is exposed to oxygen and water will change color. In addition, the sedimentary layers have been tilted on their side, exposing stripped intervals.

Not only is the mountain a beautiful place to reconnect with nature, but it is also a site of worship. Since pre-Inca times, Peruvians have believed Rainbow Mountain to be the deity of Cusco and refer to the land as an Apu (a worship site). To this day, the locals return to Rainbow Mountain for daily worship and to give offerings.

Our trek to Rainbow Mountain continued after a filling breakfast. The tour operator instructed us for our ATV adventure for the remainder of our ride. As the sun rose, the steep dirt road up the mountain had everyone’s attention. The vistas of the Andes Mountains with the rushing rivers below and beside the van kept our attention as the driver navigated the road.

Nearly an hour after breakfast, we reached the place where we hopped onto our ATVs and continued our journey. The views were spectacular, and the one-hour ride went by in a breeze. This was much better than hiking the entire distance to the summit of Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain). The tour operator instructed us that we had three options from that point. We could hike the remaining 1.5 km to the summit, ride with a native on a motorcycle, or take a horse. Despite the altitude, Jen and I opted to hike it. We felt good and capable of the distance. I should mention that the mountain has an altitude of 17,100 feet above sea level.

Our Happy Group.

The 35-minute hike was far longer for us. We underestimated the lack of oxygen and its effect on our bodies. Jen took a horse around the halfway point, and I continued on foot. I was the oldest of the ten adventurers and the only one to hike it in both directions. I was exhausted beyond belief.

The hike down was far easier, and the ATVs were waiting for our return to the tour bus. The bus ride from there was frightful. Many of our fellow adventurers refused to watch. On the return to Cusco, we stopped at the same place where we had breakfast for an authentic Peruvian lunch buffet. It was late afternoon when we were dropped back at our hotel.

We didn’t have to rush the following morning. We packed our backpacks with the essentials for three days in the Jungle and put the remainder in our suitcases to be stored at the dock in Puerto Maldonado. The anticipation of spending the next three days in the Amazon Rainforest drove our imagination. The tour company picked us up after breakfast and delivered us to the airport for our domestic flight.  We were heading into the jungle. Three days of complete isolation and electronic detox.

We arrived at Puerto Maldonado airport, which had two gates. The resort company picked us up and transferred us to the pier for the 45-minute boat ride along the winding Madre de Dios River for our Amazon adventure. The motorized wooden boat hugged the meandering riverbank to reach our lodge, Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, nestled in the heart of the rainforest. After a short briefing, we settled into our palm-thatched cabana in the private ecological reserve established to protect the sensitive environment. After unpacking and getting things figured out, we took a walk around the trails of the resort to immerse ourselves in the Amazon basin’s biodiversity and the rainforest’s layers. We wound our way through the towering trees while our ears tuned in to the croaks, rustles, and calls of the exotic wildlife inhabiting this rich ecosystem.

Our Cabana

Our guide at Inkaterra was the best of the best. He made sure we never had a dull moment during our visit. Some of our small group enjoyed the spa, while others couldn’t wait for the next adventure. We were split into two groups, with those who spoke English in one and Spanish speakers in another. Our guide, who spoke perfect English, had lived his entire life in the jungle. The first night, we had a twilight river excursion to witness the jungle transform from a diurnal to a nocturnal world. Great pictures are difficult at this time of night. We spotted some Caiman lurking in the water near the bank and heard the calls of the monkeys. We returned to the lodge for drinks and a fantastic dinner after our excursion. The food and drinks at the resort were top-notch.

Our guide took us to Lake Sandoval on the morning of the first full day. The lake was reached by taking the wood boat to Tambopata National Reserve. We hiked a sun-dappled jungle trail from the pier while our guide pointed out flora, fauna, and an occasional camouflaged creature.

When we reached the lake, we boarded a dug-out canoe to quietly paddle through the mangroves and glide onto Lake Sandoval, flanked by the palm jungle. The lake is home to thousands of species of birds, including the endangered giant otter, red howler monkeys, red-bellied macaws, anacondas, side-neck turtles, and black caiman. We didn’t see many of these, but I got pictures of some. Jen will tell you she’s thankful not to have seen an anaconda.

After our return to the resort, we enjoyed a great lunch before embarking on another adventure. The Inkaterra Canopy Walkway is a sophisticated 1,135-foot network of seven ecologically constructed hanging suspension bridges strung between eight treetop observation platforms above the forest floor. This was an unforgettable opportunity to observe the rainforest above the canopy, giving a sense of its colossal size. When we reached the first tower, Jen not only said no… she said hell, no. She and another adventurer, who also feared heights, declined to participate.

A tree in the jungle that was over 300 years old.

That night, we had torrential rain, which dampened our ability to adventure the following morning. This is what anyone may expect in the middle of the Amazon Rainforest. We relaxed with a book in the lodge and waited for another adventure opportunity. Many people we arrived with were departing, and others were filtering in. We met some very interesting people. After the rain stopped and we enjoyed a beautiful lunch, our guide tracked us down and asked if we would like to have a tour of the Lagoon at Hacienda Concepcion, a sister resort thirty minutes upstream from ours. It formally functioned as a medical center set up by Catholic missionaries in the 1950s and a center for ecological research. With over 200 different plant species, the rainforest is often considered the world’s largest pharmacy. We would take a hike through the jungle to the lagoon and a thirty-minute canoe ride in the shallow backwaters of the river. We jumped at the opportunity.

The time had passed too quickly, and we were winding down our last day in the Jungle. After another delicious dinner, our expert guide took us, armed with flashlights, into the jungle for a two-hour adventure. Under the cover of darkness, our senses were heightened by the movements in the undergrowth and nocturnal forest sounds appearing from all directions. On our adventure, we, again, didn’t encounter any anaconda but saw some of the creepiest bugs anywhere.

Our time in the jungle was delightful, but we had to pack our bags for a 6:00 a.m. departure. The lodge turned on the hot water for showers at 4:30, the chef had our breakfast ready at 5:00, and we were going up the river toward our place of beginning by sunrise.

We boarded our flight to Miami with a long layover in Lima and a second layover in Panama City. The trip was a long day of travel. We claimed our luggage in Lima and went to a hotel to regroup and enjoy a few more hours in the city where our adventure began. We ordered an Uber and returned to the mall on the cliff, where we took what we learned about purchasing Baby Alpaca garments and found a store to buy a couple of beautiful sweaters. The sweaters will be wonderful on our next adventure cruising the perimeter of South America in March. The weather will be cool as we round Cape Horn and take an excursion to the Falkland Islands, where we will see penguins. After our shopping trip, we repacked and napped to prepare for our continued flight to Miami.

When we landed in Miami, we rented a car and drove north through Alligator Alley to our condo in Port Charlotte. The time in Port Charlotte allowed us to prepare our condo for the arrival of our snowbird tenants and enjoy the holidays with family. I hoped for a couple of book events to promote my new fiction thriller, Murder in Eagle Cove. The events didn’t pan out due to the holidays. I did, however, connect with a great little bookstore, Copperfish Books, in Punta Gorda, where we hope soon to have the book available. My family were great sports, posing for fan photos during our visit.

Murder in Eagle Cove is available wherever books and digital media are sold. Click here for a list of retailers to order now or leave a review. Reviews help others find the book.

Thank you for enjoying our recent adventure vicariously through us. Peru was one of the most amazing places we have visited.

If you haven’t subscribed, please click the link to have the blog delivered to your inbox each time we post (around ten per year). Subscribing to the blog will open the opportunity to subscribe to our free weekly newsletter delivered every Monday morning from Panama. We never spam our subscribers and will never sell our distribution list. We only promote places and vendors whom we would truly return.

Blessings from Panama,

Greg and Jen

Incredible Adventures Boca Chica and Boquete

There are no words to describe how amazing our recent adventures were. We have experienced whale watching on one other occasion without disappointment, but it was nothing compared to our recent trip to the Gulf of Chiriquí in Boca Chica.

We traveled with two other couples to Boca Chica, where we checked into our favorite resort, Regalo. Jen and I stayed at Regalo Resort on one other occasion, and we found it just as beautiful and charming as we remembered. The resort is wonderfully remote while convenient to the public pier at Boca Chica.  The proprietors, Carol and Jenni, have recently put in a pickleball court and converted the helipad into a bahio, where they host yoga retreats. They tell us that the resort is booked at capacity for most of the year, and they’re planning a minor expansion.

Regalo Resort

They employ a full-time chef, a bartender, and maid staff to serve the guests. The entire staff met us upon our arrival. They collected our bags and whisked them away to our suites while we checked in and were treated to a welcome cocktail at the bar. Dinner is typically offered in two choices, with other options for those with special diets or needs. We were given our options for dinner and asked what time we wanted to eat.

A table was set up on the pool deck for our party of six and another for the other guests in the resort. The other guests were a family of four from Florida who had spent the day deep sea fishing. They told us of the magnificent time they had and were asking Carol how they could transport their catch back to Florida. This seemed to me a near impossibility, but Carol was preparing their fish for the trip, packing it in a cooler with ice.

The resort can arrange any adventure from the public pier at Boca Chica. On our prior trip, we did an island-hopping boat tour with an excellent captain, Victor. Our tour started on Isla Bolanos, where we could swim and soak in the wondrous sights and sounds of the Gulf of Chiriquí. The second stop was Isla Paridas, where we enjoyed a great lunch. It was the only island with commerce. We saw just one small house serving drinks and fresh seafood, so we took the opportunity to restock our cooler and have Red Snapper served with salad, rice, and patacones. Following lunch, we swam on the beautiful beach before heading to our third island, Isla Gomez. It was a tiny, uninhabited island with a perfect beach. We did not have to share this island with anyone else. Captain Victor gave us an hour to swim and enjoy the beach before returning us to the pier at Boca Chica.

That day, we shared the boat with a Panamanian family. The couple and their well-behaved children were bi-lingual and spoke English to us. They ended up joining us for dinner at Regalo. It’s no surprise that they have become lifelong friends. It always amazes us how welcoming and friendly the Panamanian people are.

After returning to the pier, we walked around a bit in the village. There was truly little to see and do there. Boca Chica is a basic little town of fishermen and tourist boat excursions. This is a popular destination for whale watching. The whales migrate to the Gulf of Chiriquí from August to October. This is where whales give birth because of its safe, warm waters. Otherwise, everyone there had an agenda of fishing, sightseeing, or scuba diving. This was not whale season, so we saw no whales on our excursion. There were no cute little shops or restaurants, so we returned to Regalo for a relaxed evening meal with our new friends.

Our priority on this trip to Boca Chica was to see whales. From July to October, the humpback whales arrive in the Gulf of Chiriquí after their long journey from Antarctica to have their young and teach them to survive. The waters here are perfect for breeding as they must be warm and safe. This offers well-being and protection to their babies, who must be born with fat to resist the cold temperatures.

Adult males measure between 12 and 14 meters, somewhat smaller than females. An adult humpback whale can measure between 15 and 18 meters and live up to 50 years. Its weight ranges between 25 and 40 tons.

On Tuesday, we went to the pier, where we met our guide for the day, Jay. He proved to be an expert at finding whales. Although the location of the whales is sometimes tricky, Jay knew where to go and gave us the show of a lifetime.

Our day included a stop at Isla Paridas, where we had stopped on our previous adventure, to have a delightful lunch of fresh langostinos (shrimp).

Our day ended at the resort, where we swam in the beautiful infinity pool, enjoying drinks prepared and served by the bartender while the chef prepared another delightful meal.

My Filet Mignon with mashed potatoes and salad.

After extreme adventuring, we visited with our gracious hosts, and all turned in early. Carol and Jenni posed for a fan photo. We don’t often endorse or recommend places unless we would return. This is a place we will return again and again. See my September 11, 2023, issue 154 Newsletter for a link to this magnificent place.

Jenni and Carol

I would be remiss if I didn’t say here that the breakfast at Regalo is delightful and included in the price for a night. They served fruit and a breakfast selection with juice and fresh coffee from the Chiriquí highlands of Boquete both mornings. One of the couples we traveled with arranged an extra day in Boquete to tour a local coffee finca (farm).

Following our delightful breakfast on Wednesday morning, we drove to Boquete. The drive was beautiful and relatively short. If you’ve ever driven in Panama, you know the roads in parts of the country are not so great. The Inter-Americana Highway from Santiago to David is relatively new and in excellent shape.

On our initial trip to Boquete, we journeyed in one day. The entire trip is about 400km, taking approximately five hours without stops. We’ve been there three times with no shortage of adventure stories.

Boquete is a small mountain town in Panama. It’s located in the westernmost Province of Chiriquí, about 60 kilometers (37 mi) from the border with Costa Rica, and lies on the Caldera River in Panama’s green mountain highlands. Because of its elevation of 1,200 meters (3,900 ft) above sea level, its climate is cooler than the lowlands. Its scenic location, temperature, and natural environment make it popular with Panamanians and attracts tourists and retirees from all over the world.

Archaeological studies support the idea that Boquete’s history started between 300 AD to 600 BC. In this region, you can find petroglyphs (prehistoric rock carvings) that are evidence of the ancient settlements in the area. During the Spanish colonization, the highland area was an isolated refuge for the indigenous tribes like the Ngöbe and the Misquito due to the topographic terrain. The colonization of Boquete began in the second half of the nineteenth century by locals from Bugaba, Gualaca, and David and foreigners from Yugoslavia, France, Germany, and other European countries. Colonizers also arrived from the United States, starting the first coffee plantations and agricultural farms. In Spanish, the word Boquete means ‘gap or opening.’ It was through this gap that curious gold seekers trekked, looking for a cheaper and quicker way to the Pacific. By the early twentieth century, several villages had been populated: Lino, Quiel, Bajo Mono, Los Naranjos, and Bajo Boquete, which now is the town center of the district.

The town of Boquete has a population of around 25,000, including around 2500 expats from all over the world. It also has some of the most beautiful waterfalls, flowers, hundreds of bird species, butterflies, and hiking.

It should be no surprise that Boquete hosts a couple of Panama’s biggest festival celebrations. It is the perfect setting to stimulate artistic ability and creative talent, making it ideal for hosting the annual Boquete Jazz and Blues Festival.

Boquete boasts a vibrant music and arts scene. The annual Boquete Jazz Festival was founded in 2007, the second-largest jazz festival in the country after the Panama City Jazz Festival. Having been renamed Boquete Jazz & Blues Festival, it’s held annually in February. Since 2012, the event has showcased first-class international Blues acts and notable Panamanian and Latin American artists featuring Jazz and Latin American music styles. It was the first festival in Panama to do so. These entertainers are a great success! According to friends who have attended the festival, it features outstanding talent. As people walk about, they say there are smiles on every face, dancing, and great fun. This has been described as a great community event for all.  My information tells me the festival is moving from Boquete in 2024 to the Buenaventura Resort on the Pacific Riviera.

The Boquete Flower Festival has been held annually from around January 11th through the 21st since 1984. Our good friends attended the festival, and this is how they described what they found. The festival is held in the Feria grounds on the east bank of the Boquete River near an old cable suspension bridge. The bridge is indeed an engineering wonder as, despite its dilapidated condition, it still stands and carries traffic. They found a festival atmosphere with at least 200 stalls. Local artisans displayed everything from local native costumes to coffee, handicrafts, food, beer stands, and magnificent flowers. The army of gardeners had done a masterful job keeping the 30,000-plus blooms bright and well-watered despite the drying winds and tropical sun. Given the altitude and climate, it was apparent that the organizers had gone to great lengths to pick the most attractive and durable plants. Our friends saw everything from petunias and pansies to beautiful bright chrysanthemums. In the center, they found a display by the local orchid society. These blooms were indeed the jewel in the Feria’s crown and as exotic and exquisite as the orchid name implies.

On their drive from David north to Boquete, they noticed, with the change in climate from hot and humid to cool and refreshing, multicolored flowers were abundant along the roadside and in the ditches. It was easy for them to understand why Boquete is Panama’s flower capital. They also told me that missing the vegetable display would have been tragic. The abundant vegetables in the area are responsible for the fantastic food found in the restaurants locally. Based on my experience, Boquete always has something great to enjoy.

Visitors to Boquete are frequently invited to visit the Tuesday Market because it is such an integral part of the community. The Tuesday Market activities have been a big success, both commercially speaking and in integrating the locals and the expatriates working side by side. Any Tuesday visit to Boquete must include a visit to the Market. We have visited there on two previous occasions.

The last time we were there, we took a hike on the Pipeline Trail, explored the countryside, and hiked the hanging bridges of Tree Trek. We were traveling with my writing group, and Detective Larry was conceived at the same hotel where we stayed on this trip. I am anxious to share the first of the Detective Larry Saunders Mysteries, Murder in Eagle Cove. It is scheduled for release on November 1st, 2023. Newsletter subscribers are getting advance notice of special events and some surprises. Subscribing to the Newsletter is simple and free. You likely received an invitation to subscribe when you opened this blog post. If you didn’t get the invitation or skipped over it, send me a private message. Include your name and email address so I can add you to the distribution list.

Our agenda for this visit was to enjoy some outstanding local restaurants and take an excursion to the top of Volcan Baru. The Volcan excursion was one I never thought we would be able to do. The journey to the top is at least a four-hour hike in each direction. For an old, out-of-shape senior citizen, this is unattainable. Fortunately, we found a tour company offering transportation to the summit by four-wheel drive ATV.

We arrived in town with time to explore before stopping at a local favorite, Big Daddy’s, for lunch. After a relaxing lunch, we went to Boquete Garden Inn for the next two nights. The inn has a happy hour at six every evening and a complimentary breakfast each morning. We settled into our rooms and met our fellow travelers for a glass of wine in the hotel’s delightful bar. Our dinner reservations were at The Rock. It’s considered one of the finest restaurants in town. I may get hate mail for this, but let’s say it’s not likely to be a place where I would return. Our dinner bill was the highest of our adventure, and it was just average food. The highlight of the experience was a marshmallow roast at the firepit in the outside dining area after our meal.

We met our tour operator on Thursday morning in front of the inn at 3:30 a.m. The early departure meant we would drive to the summit of Volcán Barú in the dark to see the sunrise over the Caribbean if the weather cooperated.

Volcán Barú, also called Volcán de Chiriquí, is an active stratovolcano and the tallest mountain in Panama, at 3,474 meters (11,398 ft) high. It is about 35 km (22 mi) from the border of Costa Rica. It’s also the twelfth-highest peak in Central America.

Due to its height and the narrowness of the isthmus of Panama, it is possible (though relatively rare) to see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from Volcán Barú’s peak on a clear day.

The small town of Volcán is at the base of Volcán Barú. The erosion of a small river there exposed an ancient forest below, dated to about 1000 years old. Volcán Barú is surrounded by a fertile area of cool highlands drained by the Chiriquí Viejo and Caldera Rivers. The towns of Volcán and Cerro Punta can be found on its western side, while Boquete is on the eastern flank.

The occasional fall of hail or ice pellets has been reported on the summit, where the minimum temperature can be below 0 °C (32 °F), and frost formation is frequent during the dry season. The peak is host to a large installation of broadcast towers.

It has been determined that El Barú volcano is active and part of the extension of the Central American Volcanic Arc in Panama. In 2006, an earthquake swarm was registered in the Volcán Barú area. This was not the first; researchers cite at least three other seismic events recorded recently (1930, 1965, 1985).

In 2007, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), in cooperation with Panama’s Science, Technology, and Innovation Secretariat (SENACYT) and the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID), published a study on different aspects of Volcán Barú. The report outlined potential hazard areas, rock composition, and areas affected by previous eruptions; there is evidence that during the last eruption, which occurred in the 16th century, the debris avalanche deposits covered an area reaching as far as the Pacific Ocean (the largest documented in Central America and nearly ten times the area covered by the Mt. St. Helens debris avalanche in 1980).

Data collected at several locations from four previous eruptions during the last 1600 years indicate that a new eruption would last several years, putting population and costly infrastructure at risk in the areas surrounding the volcano. Typical events during such volcanic episodes include pyroclastic flows, super-heated gas clouds rapidly descending the volcano’s east flank, conceivably reaching as far as Boquete, Alto Boquete, and the Caldera River, and fallout of ash and other particles ranging in size from dust to one-meter blocks, known as tephra, causing fires, roof collapses, water contamination, crop damage and eye and lung irritation, especially among elders and infants. A third type of event, mud and debris flows, known as lahars, create landslides, obstruct river courses, and could have long-term effects in the zone. The severity of these events is directly related to the lava flows and their interaction with underground water deposits.

The volcano was declared Volcán Barú National Park in 1976, with an area of 14,325 ha (35,400 acres). It’s a part of the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor. Fauna includes the black guan, black-and-white hawk-eagle, Underwood’s water mouse, volcano junco, wren thrush, and yellow-thighed brush finch. Over 250 species of birds have been identified within the park, and all five species of big cats live here as well. The national park protects various habitats, including humid montane forests, low humid montane forests, and montane rainforests.

The park’s most popular hiking trail is the Sendero Los Quetzales (Los Quetzales Trail), which connects Boquete with Cerro Punta and wraps around the side of the volcano. The trail takes around 6 hours to hike. There is another trail to the top of the volcano, but this is long, steep, and strenuous.

On our visit, we could see the Pacific coast clearly while clouds shrouded the Caribbean side of the volcano. The summit is the only destination in Panama where there has ever been snow. It was about 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit) when we reached the top. There was no snow, but the 25-mph wind was unforgiving. The volcano has seven craters, which are all visible from the top. The Volcan Baru National Park allows only fifteen vehicles to make the ascent to the summit daily, and there were two others there on Thursday morning. The road to the top is roughly thirteen km of extreme rocks and ruts. Our driver, Melissa, was very skilled and delivered us safely to the top and back. The park only allows qualified, experienced drivers to make the journey. We followed another driver from her company in both directions. The two groups included our group of six, another guy who paid for a private tour, two drivers, and a guide. There was one stop along the way to clear rocks from the road for passage. I understand that hikers can no longer hike up in the dark of night. Camping at the summit is also no longer allowed. I believe the other tour company delivered some individuals to the top who would make the hike down. In any case, it is a challenging hike for even the most experienced hikers.

While at the top, our tour operator made us breakfast while we stood in awe of the magnificent sunrise views and the surrounding vistas. The trek was about two hours in each direction. Each time a vehicle makes the trip to the top, it is taken immediately for a complete inspection. She says replacing the tires, shocks, and brakes is commonly a short cycle. The ride down was a bit more daunting than the ride to the top. One of our fellow travelers arrived at the bottom with bruised ribs from the descent.

I cultivated some of the history and geography from Wikipedia, while some came from our guide.

Our dinner plans on Thursday night took us to RetroGusto. This was one of the best meals of the week, in my opinion. I rarely share pictures of food, but the image below is of my entree. I enjoyed the smoked pork chop. I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting Boquete. The restaurants in Boquete are a treat, and we all wished we could experience more of them. We have been to RetroGusto on one other trip to Boquete, and the experience both times was delightful.

The smoked Pork Chop
The smoked Pork Chop

On a previous trip there, we enjoyed Mesa Azul, which we recommend. We enjoyed a great meal at George’s Grill on our first trip. I related a great story in the first edition of 2 Retire In Panama? from George’s, but some readers had terrible experiences there, so I will refrain from recommending it.

Friday morning, we enjoyed a delightful breakfast at the Boquete Garden Inn before checking out and heading home. This hotel has been renovated and remains a favorite place in Boquete. We always find great new friends while visiting. On our drive back to Coronado, we found Dona Gladys. This was a stop Jen and I made on our first trip to Boquete, and I stated in the first edition of 2 Retire in Panama? that I didn’t think we would ever find it again.

I always recommend spending several months on the ground here in Panama before deciding where to retire. The consensus of our group was that Boquete is a beautiful place to visit for many reasons, but a little damp and cool. We’re pretty happy living in the beach community of Coronado. Go and explore the country and draw your own conclusion.

Our next great adventure is less than two weeks away. We are traveling to the Mayan Riviera of Mexico, near Cancun. We plan to visit Tulum and enjoy other sites near our resort. Watch for posts on social media in the weekly newsletter, and be sure to return to read our next blog post. If you’ve yet to subscribe to this blog or the newsletter, please do it. I have kept the content free and have never spammed my readers. We love you all and love sharing our adventures.

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Is there violent crime in Panama?

Jen and I went to dinner with our good friends, Mike and Diane, to celebrate one last meal with them at one of our favorite places in the community. They were returning to the States after concluding the sale of their condo. They decided to downsize to only one home and simplify their life.

After settling into our seats, we enjoyed our meals and relaxed in great conversation about some of the adventures and things we have experienced as friends here. True friends are friends for life, and we’ll continue to embrace their friendship across the miles, looking forward to their visits back to Panama or our visits to see them in the U.S.

Mike and Diane at Cafe Med

Our celebration was an experience none of us will soon forget. As the evening evaporated in delightful food and conversation, we were lost in our time together. As near as I can recall, it was nearly nine thirty when Diane gasped, looking toward the entrance to the restaurant. “This can’t be good,” she said. I glanced over my shoulder to see two armed thugs enter dressed entirely in black, covered from head to foot. Only their eyes were visible through their disguises. The two began screaming and yelling in Spanish, creating a ruckus in the restaurant. I have to interject here that I cannot accurately recount how much time passed or what exactly was transpiring as my back was to most of it.

They took cell phones and things easily accessible and visible off tables while the guests sat in horror. At one table in my field of vision, a patron fought with one who was trying to take his wife’s purse. The guy was forced to the ground after being assaulted by the gunman. The owner was robbed. The entire event was scarcely moments before the owner began shouting back in Spanish, getting in the face of one of the perpetrators. At our table, my phone was all that was taken. I witnessed several other patrons hiding their wallets and purses.

As the two ran from the restaurant, another patron produced a weapon and chased them. He hollered at them in Spanish before firing shots as they climbed the fence across the street. The restaurant is an open garden with a clear street view through the plants and greenery. I saw the patron firing at them, but I cannot say with certainty if he fired all four shots or if some were return fire. Based on my perception of the sound of the shots, all four were fired from the same weapon.

I suspect someone had dialed the police relatively soon in the ordeal because they arrived quickly. They began tracking the perpetrators, climbing the fence, and finding blood before recovering the items taken. One police officer was injured climbing the fence where the perps disappeared. The responding officers worked to recover the stolen property while others took statements from patrons. They disarmed the shooter and treated him respectfully as he helped translate between the English-speaking patrons and the Spanish-speaking law enforcement.

The following day, we went to the Department of Judicial Investigation (DJI) to claim my stolen cell phone. It was then that I realized how much of the harrowing event I could not recall. I credit God with our veil of protection, which kept us safe. It may have been that veil of protection that affected my recount or something else, but adrenalin surged through my body while I paid the bill and gave my statement to the police officers at the scene. I blamed that adrenaline rush on my fatigue as the week progressed.

DJI was friendly and welcoming. They provided an interpreter for me as I was asked to give my statement in my native language (a right of all victims in Panama). I signed a document warning of providing false testimony, another informing me of my rights as a victim, and a form releasing and returning my property, which had been taken. I was asked to provide a fingerprint at each place I signed. They informed me of the apprehension of one of the perps and that the other was known and being pursued. This information gave me more comfort than the return of my cell phone.

DJI is the bridge between the initial police response and the investigation for prosecution of a crime. They are an arm of the Fiscalia (Attorney General’s Office). If DJI responds to the scene of a crime, they will conduct an initial investigation. However, they cannot conduct a full or follow-up investigation unless you go to the local Denuncia Center and file an official report. Filing a Denuncia is the ONLY way to open a case and get a tracking number. Once you have filed a Denuncia and obtained a Denuncia number, you can use that number to follow up on the status of your case.

The police response in Panama is different than in the United States.  The police will respond to provide immediate assistance and protection to victims, will arrest suspects if they are still on the scene or nearby (assuming they have probable cause that the suspect indeed committed a crime), and, if necessary, call for DJI investigators (see more about DJI above).  The Police will NOT take a report or conduct a follow-up investigation.  They may take some data for statistical purposes but are not empowered to file reports or conduct investigations.  If your call to the police is not timely (i.e., when the crime is discovered), there is little the police can do.  If you delay reporting the crime, or if it is minor, you should go straight to DJI.

Investigating a case takes 2 to 4 months, and prosecution can take years.

In addition to reporting crime to Panamanian authorities, U.S. citizens are encouraged to provide information on criminal incidents to the U.S. Embassy. This information will assist the embassy in tracking crimes against U.S. citizens in Panama and following up with authorities.

When reporting a crime to the American Citizen Services unit of the Consular Section, please provide the following information by email to panama-acs@state.gov or by visiting their website and clicking on the crime report link, which you should find on the website. The following information will requested:

·         U.S. Passport Number of victim

·         DJI Report Number and Date Filed

·         Type of Crime Committed

·         In-depth narrative of the crime you were the victim of, including the following information:

a.       Crime location (province, city/area, neighborhood, etc.)

b.      Number of US Citizens affected.

c.       Date and approximate time of day the crime took place.

d.      The monetary amount of valuables/objects taken/destroyed (if applicable)

e.       Action taken after the crime was committed (police report, etc.)

I wanted to share the victim rights offered in Panama. I spent a great deal of time looking for a good translation of the rights provided by the law here. Jen located this website, and I’m sharing a document from it.

The rights of crime victims in Panama

Victims’ rights are special guarantees granted to those who have suffered harm due to crime and serious human rights violations.

Human rights are rights inherent to all human beings, without distinction of nationality, place of residence, sex, national or ethnic origin, color, religion, language, or any other condition; we all have the same human rights without discrimination.

According to Panamanian criminal legislation, victims have the following rights:

  • The right to receive medical, psychiatric or psychological, spiritual, material, and social care when required in the cases provided by law.
  • The right to intervene as a complainant to demand the defendant’s criminal responsibility and to obtain civil compensation for the damages resulting from the crime.
  • The right to receive protection when the judge and the competent court must decide or fix the amount of a release bond or grant a personal precautionary measure instead of preventive detention in favor of the defendant.
  • The right to be informed about the course of the respective criminal proceedings and to receive explanations related to the development of the process.
  • The right to be heard by the judge when they are present at the request for dismissal of charges presented by the Public Ministry or prosecutor’s office.
  • The right to promptly receive the assets of their property or of their lawful possession seized as evidence during the criminal proceeding when they are not necessary for the process.
  • The right to receive free legal assistance from the state through a Panamanian lawyer to obtain reparation for the damage resulting from the crime and to cooperate with the prosecutor’s office to exercise the criminal action.
  • Any other right that the laws indicate.

On the other hand, defendants have the following rights:

  • The right to presumption of innocence
  • The right to know the reasons for their detention.
  • The right to communicate with a family member and their defense lawyer in Panama.
  • The right not to be subjected to arbitrary detention or investigative techniques that violate their dignity or alter their free will.
  • The right to an attorney
  • The right to a certified translator or interpreter if they do not understand the Spanish language.
  • The right not to testify against themselves.
  • The right to appeal.
  • The right to be brought before a court or judge promptly.
  • The right not to be discriminated against
  • The right to be treated well and to be fed.
  • The right to health in Panama
  • The right to receive periodic information about their legal situation from their private attorney, public defender, or the Panamanian Penitentiary System.

If you need to speak with a criminal defense attorney or a legal translator in the Republic of Panama, please message them at the link above.

It amazes us how many friends and relatives from near and far offered a shoulder or kind ear to listen. A special thanks go to Mitzy Casey, who held our hands, guiding us through the process at DJI, and my translator Emerson, who talked me through the forms. Thank you to the kind police officers and the Assistant Prosecutor. Thank you also goes to the other victims who remained calm in the dire situation, and Jasmine, a voice on the phone with Jen, who ensured us that her husband, Issac (a local police Lieutenant), was in the loop. Issac is an advocate for ex-pats in our community.

We recently returned to Cafe Med with friends. The decision to return to the restaurant so soon after the tragic event was healing for Jen and me, while the others agreed to support us and refuse to allow terror to victimize our ability to enjoy the home we love.  Crime like the one we experienced could have occurred anywhere.

Jon and Sue Wizarde at Cafe Med

Our return was six days following the robbery, and we found the proprietor, Franco, attempting a return to flawless service and excellent food. The place was packed to capacity by ex-pats and Panamanians in an outpouring of support and our same refusal to be terrorized.

I found this helpful information for tourists in Panama. Safety and crime information. I have copied and pasted it here to give visitors and residents a perspective on what they may expect as they travel around Panama.

Panama remains relatively safe compared to other Central American countries, yet crime rates are still higher than in most of the United States. Violent crime in Panama started to rise in 2007. However, new efforts by Panama’s National Police (PNP) to combat this trend appear to have made an impact. Beginning in June 2010, the number of homicides in the country declined and continued downward through 2012. Unfortunately, the rate of simple theft was up, with “Blackberry”-type smartphones being a particular target. The three provinces with the largest cities also had the highest overall crime rates: Panama, Colon, and Chiriqui. The entire town of Colon is a high-crime area; travelers should use extreme caution anywhere in Colon.

Police continue to conduct vehicle checkpoints at key intersections in the city to raise their visibility and hamper criminals’ movements. The high crime areas in and around Panama City are El Chorrillo, San Miguel, Santa Ana, Cabo Verde, Curundu, Veracruz Beach, Santa Librada, Rio Abajo, San Miguelito, Panama Viejo, and the Madden Dam Overlook.

Crimes are typical of those that plague metropolitan areas and include shootings, rapes, armed robberies, muggings, purse-snatchings, thefts from locked autos by breaking windows for entry, thefts of unsecured items, petty theft, and occasionally “express kidnappings” from ATM banking facilities, in which the victim is briefly kidnapped and robbed after withdrawing cash from an ATM. There has also been a recent spike in credit card and ATM fraud reports. Criminals capture credit and ATM card information to clone and create fraudulent cards. Kidnappings have been on the rise of late, including in Panama City. Many of the kidnappings appear related to drug or criminal activity.

There has also been a recent increase in thefts from cars. We encourage travelers and residents to take all valuables out of their vehicles and place them in their trunks before they get to their destinations. Drivers should keep their windows up while the car is in motion or stopped in traffic, at traffic lights, or at their destinations to prevent items from being stolen while driving.

Taxis are a helpful way to maneuver around Panama; however, use caution when getting into a taxi. Check that the number on the side of the taxi matches the number on the license plate. Ensuring the car is a registered taxi with a number on the side is a quick way to help prevent any incidences. Regular taxis are yellow. Also, never get into a taxi that already has a passenger and instruct the driver not to pick up any additional fares while en route to your destination. Many hotels also have “tourist taxis” that are not yellow but only pick up passengers in front of well-known hotels.

U.S. citizens are advised never to let a “helpful” stranger direct them to a particular taxi or taxi stand and always negotiate the fare before getting in to ensure a fixed price.

Regarding non-drug-related crime, using weapons (handguns and knives) in the commission of street robberies is common; however, gratuitous violence is uncommon as long as the victim complies and hands over the property. In 2013, there was an increase in violence during theft. Home burglaries and, more worrying, home-invasion robberies do appear to be on the rise, especially in the more affluent neighborhoods. Panama City has a curfew for those younger than 18 years of age that is generally from 8:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Friday and Saturday. The times are subject to change depending on your location within Panama. If you are concerned about the exact time, you may contact local police. This curfew applies to both Panamanian and foreign citizens. Under the law, students attending night classes must have a “carnet” or permit issued by the school or, if employed, a Certificate of Employment. Minors picked up for a curfew violation are subject to detention at a police station until parents or legal guardians can arrange for them to be released into their custody. Parents or legal guardians may be fined up to U.S. $50 for the first violation.

Panamanian customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Panama of items such as firearms and ammunition, cultural property, endangered wildlife species, narcotics, biological material, and food products. Contact the Embassy of Panama in Washington or one of Panama’s Consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements.

Don’t buy counterfeit and pirated goods, even if they are widely available. Not only are the bootlegs illegal in the United States, but you may also be breaking local law if you purchase them.

You are responsible for ensuring that you meet and comply with foreign entry and health requirements and possess the appropriate travel documents. Information provided is subject to change without notice. One should confirm content before traveling from other reliable sources. Information published on this website may contain errors. You travel at your own risk, and we provide no warranties or guarantees.

Visitors and residents in Panama can expect crime to be similar to any other location worldwide. My best advice is to be aware of your surroundings and protect your belongings. I have always professed to be cautious when entering a taxi, engaging in a transaction, or entering an area of higher criminal activity.

Recently, we took a tour of the El Chorrillo barrio community, where gang activity dates back to the Noriega regime. Our tour was led by a capable guide, Victor Peretz, who helped us understand the neighborhood’s people and activities. Without his guidance, we would never attempt to enter this area. While there, we witnessed the police presence, children playing in the streets, a park with people playing dominoes, and a community center that was a safe haven for children to gather. We also had the opportunity to visit a neighborhood bar and a kitchen where local food is prepared, and cooking classes are hosted. Victor pointed out the gang houses and the graffiti art. This is the neighborhood where Roberto Duran and many famous jazz and blues entertainers were born and raised. The community is the home of seven current soccer players from the Panama Soccer team.

Neighborhood History in Street Art
Gang House
Roberto Duran (street art)

This neighborhood borders the famous Casco Viejo area where the Presidential Palace is located. The Casco Viejo gentrification is pushing the borders, and we found it heartbreaking that many people in this depressed community were being driven from the homes where their families have lived for generations.

Street Food Vendor
Dominoes in the park
A neighborhood bar. The beers were $1.

The story’s moral is that we would never have experienced this area without the guidance of Victor. No visitor should go to this neighborhood alone, expecting to be safe. Likewise, no visitor should attempt to visit Colon without a capable guide. Review the list of areas in the article above before setting out on adventures.

Jen and I at Fort Lorenzo Castle near Colon

Jen and I, with numerous adventure buddies, have been to many of these areas. I have detailed these adventures in previous blog posts, my newsletter, my Facebook feed, and my book, 2 Retire In Panama. That doesn’t mean we advocate putting ourselves in danger. Use due diligence and protect your belongings. Keep your wallet and cell phone in your front pocket, and don’t wear expensive jewelry. Most of Panama is safe. Enjoy the beauty of this country, and feel free to explore.

The best place to explore from…Panama!

I’ve talked at length in my book and newsletter about the amazing travel opportunities for retired people living in Panama. Part of the reason for our retirement location decision was the travel we wanted to do as we approached our golden years. We wanted a home where travel is essentially easy to destinations worldwide. Recently, we reported on the opening of the new cruise port on the Amador Causeway in Panama City. When Norwegian began servicing the port, we learned of an amazing cruise itinerary. It turns out that we were among several expat couples who noticed the extraordinary opportunity. We booked the cruise with no concern for air travel.

Rendition of the completed cruise port

We traveled with two other couples from our home in Coronado by private shuttle on February 22. The cruise port is still not 100% complete due to construction delays caused by Covid, so our driver dropped us at the amazing, new convention center where our luggage was collected, documents were processed, and the immigration process was completed. We waited in the comfortable facility to be called in groups for shuttle to our ship. The Norwegian Jewel is one of the smaller ships on their fleet, however we were told that it was leaving port at full capacity (about 2400 passengers).

Newly completed Panama City Convention Center

The passengers were all checked in and comfortably settled into their staterooms by 3:00 and the beautiful ship pulled away from the dock headed to the Gulf of Panama to get in the que for the Panama Canal. We began exploring to find the restaurants and bars aboard. We had dinner overlooking the Gulf of Panama. Following dinner, we found entertainment that surpassed belief. The ship had vocal musicians and dancers/acrobats who entertained the passengers at several venues, including the Stardust theater where nightly shows played.

At 6:00 a.m., the ship began its transit of the Panama Canal. An esteemed member of the Panama Canal Authority, Mr. Jaime Robleto, gave a full narration of the history and construction of this amazing structure. As we passed through each lock and Lake Gatun, the ship moved effortlessly under the direction of the Panama Canal Pilot, who boarded and took control of the ship’s transit. It was amazing how quickly the day passed before going under the Atlantic Bridge and traveling out into the Caribbean. The Panama Canal Pilot had exited the ship, and the captain regained control for the overnight passage to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.

Whether drawn to beautiful scenery, fascinated by history, or craving adventure, the best way to explore Puerto Limon was to take home a story from an exciting shore excursion. We opted to take the Caribbean Train, Eco Cruise, and Countryside tour. We boarded the open-air train and traveled through the rainforest and banana groves of Costa Rica until reaching our tour bus and being transported to a canal adventure. We motored through mangroves where we witnessed wildlife indigenous to the Costa Rican paradise. Forgive me, but the opportunity for great pictures here was limited. Following our adventure, we were returned to the ship.

The ship left Costa Rica for travel to Curacao. The trip took us through the night and a full day at sea, during which we were able to enjoy the pools, spa, driving range, casino, sports courts, jogging track, and numerous other activities. We enjoyed the tribute to Elton John by Jeffrey Allen in the Stardust Theater after dinner. During the cruise we found ourselves also enjoying the music of Louis Razon in the Magnum Bar. Every stage on the ship offered different entertainment and it was often difficult to decide where to be.

Our cruise package gave us dinner at one of the premium restaurants. We opted for Cagney’s Steakhouse, where our group enjoyed prime rib which we rarely get in Panama. The dinner was a highlight of our trip and the only time we took pictures of the food. I must say, however that the food aboard was all spectacular with one exception. We checked in at Chin Chin for Asian Fusion one night, and everyone at the table was disappointed. Nobody finished their plate. The great thing about a cruise is if one place disappoints, there are others. We slipped into a different place later for appetizers and dessert. O’Sheehan’s Pub was open 24 hours and proved to be a favorite venue for some of our meals. We all enjoyed Azura for several dinners and The Palace for other dinners and breakfasts. We enjoyed the buffet for other breakfasts and a lunch or two. Most of us tried to avoid the buffet for portion control reasons.

On day 5 of our adventure, the captain parked the ship in the port at Willemstad, Curacao around 2:00 p.m. Willemstad is the capital of the Dutch Caribbean Island, Curacao and its beauty hit us as soon as the ship pulled into port. The island is known for its pastel-colored town square as vibrant as tropical flora. Unique to Willemstad is the floating pedestrian bridge that spans the deep and narrow channel splitting the city’s two districts. We opted to explore the shopping, a fort at the port, and have an ice-cold local beer at one end of the floating bridge. It was Sunday and we found several of the shops closed. After a couple of hours, we returned to the ship and continued to enjoy the onboard activities. We left port around 9:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to our next destination Bonaire.

We arrived at Kralendijk, Bonaire around 7:00 a.m. on day 6. The countless coral reefs surrounding its shore are home to more than 400 species of marine life, earning it the nickname diver’s paradise. Many on the ship took off for dive or snorkeling adventures, while others boarded a glass bottomed gondola for prime undersea views. Still others explored the Washington Slagbaii National Park which covers a fifth of the island. Bonaire offered endless outdoor adventures with a healthy dose of colonial charm. Our little group of adventurers opted for some local shopping. The ship departed at around 8:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to Aruba.

The ship docked at Oranjestad, Aruba at 7:00 a.m. on day 7. Oranjestad, Aruba is a bustling harbor city whose streets and malls are dotted with international luxury retailers, diverse boutiques, and dazzling jewelry stores. Fascinating restored landmark buildings can be found along the way, such as Fort Zoutman, Aruba’s oldest building dating back to 1798, which was built to protect the city from pirates. There’s also the Willem III Tower built in 1868. It was once a lighthouse and public clocktower. The Historical Museum, positioned between the two buildings, houses a permanent exhibition outlining the main events in Aruban history. We opted for a best of Aruba tour where we were treated with one of the best guides around. She drove our bus across most of the island stopping to allow us to explore some of the most talked about sites on there. We motored past Haystack before stopping at Casibari, a natural rock formation. We exited the bus and were allowed time to climb the rocks and explore. Once we returned to the bus, she drove us to a very interesting Aloe plantation and factory for a tour. Then we went to the California Lighthouse, all the way getting interesting history and information about “one happy island.” She drove us past all of the beaches and resorts before our final stop, where we were able to spend a few minutes at Eagle Beach. We saw wind surfers and pirate ships along the way. This was a private tour that we arranged outside the ship. She kindly dropped us near the shopping district, so we could explore before returning to the ship. The captain departed around 8:00 p.m. despite the fact that everyone had not returned. Must be that those 2 people were having much too fun and lost track of time. A cruise ship has to maintain a rigid schedule. This was the busiest of the ports we visited with at least 5 other cruise ships docked. Our next stop was Santa Marta.

After 1 day and 2 nights of onboard activities, we made landfall at 8:00 a.m. in Santa Marta, Colombia. Santa Marta is described as pure flavor. The city’s diversity is evident in its landscape, people, and every aspect of its culture. It’s a destination that truly embraces its visitors and makes them feel at home. Santa Marta’s beautiful terrain is its most distinguishing feature with unforgettable landscapes, green foliage, blue sea, yellow sun, and sand. The contrast between the beaches and the white peaked Sierra Nevada, makes Santa Marta a must-see destination. We opted for a full day journey to the Taironaka Indian Reserve. Our tour bus transported us through the city and into the highlands of the Seirra Nevada Mountains, where we exited and hiked to the reserve. This was a difficult hike for many of us and it wasn’t recommended for anyone over 60 years old, children, or anyone with medical conditions. Our tour group had all of these, and a medic hiked with us to the reserve. The reserve had been restored to resemble some of what it may have looked like when occupied by the indigenous people. A museum there contained artifacts uncovered and our guide filled us with history and culture of the people. These were believed to be the first inhabitants of the country. They were gold crafters who also made beautiful pottery, textiles, and baskets. The Spanish had looted their graves which contained gold, jewelry, and other artifacts. Fortunately, their only interest was the gold and much of the rest was left behind for us to enjoy. There was a river nearby and several of our fellow adventurers walked down to wade into its cool water before making the hike down. Our bus returned us to the ship. The exhausted passengers rested and recovered on the ride.

The ship departed at 5:00 p.m. for the overnight journey to Cartagena. The crew on the ship told us that this was the first time they had stopped at Santa Marta.

We arrived on day 10 of our adventure at Cartagena, Colombia. Cartagena is a gorgeous fishing village on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. It has excellent beaches, a historic old town, and colonial architecture. Often considered one of the safest places in Colombia, it’s no wonder it’s a popular cruise port. The first thing one notices when exiting the port is the fabulous estuary between the dock and the street where taxis are available. Our small group got a taxi into the walled city. The taxis and traffic were brutal. The taxi drivers were trying to get usurious fares, and we negotiated before getting into one. Even with careful negotiations we paid $5 USD each for the hot uncomfortable ride. We explored part of the walled city and bought some small trinkets before returning to the ship. Our return taxi ended up costing a more reasonable $10 for four people.

Once onboard the ship, we were all feeling sad that our cruise was coming to an end. The ship departed port at 3:00 p.m. for our final leg of the trip to Colon, Panama. We all went to our staterooms to pack. All luggage had to be in the hall by 9:00 p.m. We went for a final delicious meal at what had become one of our favorite restaurants, Azura. We visited some of our favorite crew members who had served us well on our journey and took in a final show at the Stardust Theater.

Our favorite Bar Server has just brought us a round of mini beers. He takes a mean selfie.
Forbidden shot during one of the acrobatic performances.

I woke early, showered, packed my carry-on bag, and went up on deck to enjoy our arrival to Colon. I was taken back by how beautiful the port town appeared as it slept. I know from experience that this is one of the most dangerous towns in the country. We had our private transportation picking us up on the dock. The extreme poverty was evident as our driver navigated his way to the highway and our return to Coronado.

Jen and I are happy to be returning to a normal schedule of adventuring. Later this year, we will be visiting Riviera Maya in Mexico, where we will stay in a resort near Cancun. In December, we will be traveling to Peru where we will visit Machu Pichu and take an exploration into the Amazon Rainforest. From Peru, we plan to travel to the United States for a few days in Florida. Although the arrangements are still fuzzy, we are planning a cruise from Santiago, Chili around the entire continent of South America, which will conclude in Rio de Janeiro. That will be in March and April of next year. Stay tuned for more. If you want to hear about all our exciting travel, make sure you subscribe to get our blog delivered to your inbox. We will never spam you or sell your information.

Blessings from Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Our San Blas Adventure

In an article dated January 20, 2022, Joey Bonura lists the 14 Incredible Islands you must visit in Panama. As I scrolled through the article and checked out what he had to say about each, I realized that I could nearly own this list. I have referenced Joey’s blog below. He is a professional blogger sharing great information from his adventures throughout Latin America. Jen and I have had a hard time adventuring in Panama during Covid, but we are resuming our special adventure routine within the country and beyond.

Early last month we checked off one such adventure with a visit to San Blas. San Blas was high on my bucket list, and we scheduled our visit through Elias Perez with Kuna Yala Expeditions. I have referenced Kuna Yala Expeditions below for anyone interested in an adventure there. Our visit was a full emersion experience, staying on the island of Corbiski, where Elias is the administrator and a teacher at a school that educates over 140 Guna children. Almost half his students come from several of the surrounding islands arriving daily by boat.

One of the most outstanding destinations within the national territory of Panama is located in the northern Caribbean coast and is composed of about 365 islands, certainly one island for each day of the year, all of coral origin along 200 miles of coastline in the Caribbean Sea. The chain of islands is called the San Blas Archipelago, and officially known as the Kuna Yala Region. the map below gives a little perspective.

It’s likely that most tourists have heard about this archipelago, and many have seen documentaries on television about this paradise in Panama as the necklace of coral islands has become one of the most popular eco-tourism destinations within the Central American and Caribbean region. Kuna Yala is an autonomous region within the Panamanian territory, and its history dates back more than 500 years before the arrival of the Spaniards to the new continent. Its population comprises approximately 61,707 Kunas (according to the 2000 Census), who reside on the islands and mainland (located in the vicinity of Lake Bayano in northeastern Panama), distributed in about 48 villages in the region.

The Kunas, as the members of the region are called, are considered one of the few indigenous tribes of the American continent that keeps their culture almost intact despite the global changes that affect the world around them. We decided to learn a little more about the Kuna Yala region, the Kunas, their culture, and tourist attractions.

Jen and I had an amazing adventure in San Blas. We traveled to Panama City on Monday afternoon and settled into a room at the Riande. We like to stay there because they allow us to leave our car while we’re adventuring for $5.00 per day. We had a little time for shopping and dinner in the city before grabbing a nightcap and turning in early.

A nightcap before turning in early

Our driver picked us up at 5:40 a.m. for our journey to the port. San Blas can be accessed from Panama City by air daily with 25-minute flights depending on your destination within this set of islands. We opted for the more adventurous journey.  We were transported by four-wheel drive vehicle from the Riande hotel in Panama City, taking the Pan-American Highway toward the Bayano region. It was nearly an hour into the trip that the driver turned off the Pan-American highway near El Llano de Chepo to go directly to the coastal community of Cartí. This option is not for the faint of heart and only accessible during certain months. The road is extremely rough, winding through the mountainous jungle.  A person would have to be insane to take their personal vehicle on this road. It was about an hour before we arrived at the passport checkpoint. Technically, when you enter the Kuna-Yala territory you are entering a sovereign nation.

The passport checkpoint (No photographs allowed)

After passing the checkpoint it was another hour through the winding, rutted jungle road before we reached the port of Cartí.

A good stretch of the road

Once we reached the dock, we were met by our boat captain and guide. They would be taking care of us for our entire visit.

The dock at the Cartí Port

I was able to get some of the information above from Panama 24.org. I referenced their site below if you’re interested in reading more about the Kuna-Yala.

Our first island stop was one of the most famous islands in San Blas, Dog Island.  This is often considered one of the cleanest waters of the world and one of the best places in San Blas to snorkel. There is an old army gunboat sunk near the shore that is easily reached for the snorkeling enthusiast. We were thrilled by the warm, crystal clear, blue Caribbean water. We found changing rooms and hit the beach, enjoying the peaceful serenity of this beautiful location. We spent the remainder of the morning soaking in the sun and swimming.

Dog Island Photo by Mónica J. Mora

There was a small kitchen on the island manned by Kuna women who served us delightful whole fried Corvina, coconut rice and patacones. After a nice lunch, we had more time to enjoy the beach and swim before our boat captain rounded us up. He and the other guide took us to a cool natural swimming place in the middle of the ocean where the water was probably less than 18″ deep. He dropped anchor and invited us to enjoy this amazing place. We jumped from the boat and began exploring the edges which dropped off instantly into the deep, warm Caribbean.  One of the guides walked the entire perimeter, returning with a big armful of conch shells. We got some really neat pictures thanks to one of the other adventurers. The boat had snorkel gear on board, but we didn’t use it (I was concerned with using community snorkel gear because of Covid).

Standing in the middle of the ocean

On our journey, the boat guides toured us around past several islands, giving us a sense of this magnificent place.  The island of Corbiski is where our accommodations were located. The island is the home of many natives. As the boat approached the dock, we could see that the homes of the people went up to the edge of the water covering every bit of available land. There is no infrastructure of roads and utilities. The concerns for environmental changes are apparent, but there is no place to dispose of waste. The first thing I noticed is an abundance of garbage. I was told that all garbage had to be transported back to the mainland where there was a cost for disposal.

The island of Corbiski
These little islands were everywhere
Enjoying the boat journey

Most of the native people live on a few of the larger islands with the smaller islands receiving tourists for beach adventures or camping. Some of the smaller islands turn into party spots after dark. We were thankful for the quiet of our cabana, which had its own private bathroom and a nice little covered porch. It was rustic, but peaceful, positioned on a pier over the ocean. The island didn’t have a beach near our cabana. The breeze was perfect the entire time and we had no concerns with insects. We took along bug spray but never took the can out of our bag. Our bathroom plumbing flowed directly into the ocean and the shower was a mere cold trickle. There were no towels, soap, or toiletries provided. We were thankful we had the foresight to bring our own. There were no outlets. The lights were from a solar cell, and we had USB ports to charge our phones. We had cell service, but no wi-fi.  There was time for a nap before dinner. We met our host, Elias, for the first time late in the afternoon. He came around to make sure we were comfortable and brought a beautiful hand-crafted mola which his wife had made for us. She had fashioned it after the cover from my book. I got a picture of Jen and Elias proudly displaying the book and the mola.

Elias and Jen display the mola and book
Another view of our cabana
A view of our cabana from outside
The cabanas at Corbiski as we approach from the water

Dinner was served around 7:00 p.m. The cook prepared us each a beautiful lobster.

Lobster served with yucca and cabbage slaw

During dinner, we had a perfect opportunity to get acquainted with our fellow adventurers. The other three people, whom we had spent the day, were in the cabana next to ours. They were on an adventure from Lima, Peru. One of them was celebrating her birthday, too. She and I shared a birthday and the five of us had a great time getting to know one another over a great meal. All three of them spoke near perfect English, although they were slightly self-conscience of their ability. They became comfortable chatting with us. They were only there for one night.

Our new friends from Peru and Elias

When we woke the next morning, we went to the dining area and found coffee and breakfast waiting for us. The girls joined us for breakfast, then we boarded the boat for more island adventures. The five of us were treated to two more islands, each better than the previous. We had lunch on a tiny island that actually had chairs on the beach. Jen and I didn’t realize how nice it is to have a chair until there weren’t any.

Our second day lunch was chicken with patacones and salad
Jen enjoys a chair on the beach
Another of the beautiful beaches we visited

To most people, throwing a towel down on the sand is fine. To us, being a little further from the sand is good. That last beach was the hardest to leave, even though we were wrinkled from swimming and over-exposed to the sun. By mid-afternoon, it was time to take our new friends from Peru to meet their boat back to the dock. When we parted, they made sure we had their contact information. They invited us to Peru to explore their beautiful country.

Our new friends from Peru sharing lunch with us before their departure

After we dropped the girls at their transfer point, we had the option to visit another island, which we declined. That quiet little porch of our cabana was calling us home. Our guides took us to the dock, and we went to rest from our adventure. The place was buzzing with a mission group of teens from Connecticut. They were bunking in the other cabanas. The group is led by Mike Evans who operates a 501(c)3 to bring basketball to underprivileged areas worldwide. His mission is called Full Court Peace. I have linked his website below if this is something you want to read more about. I was deeply touched by what they were there to do. Before dark, they had set up a volleyball net on the site of the future basketball court and had the kids in the village involved in a game.

A little time for volleyball before dark
After we left the group assembled the basketball goals and had a basketball clinic for the locals

Elias gave us a tour of his school; however, the students were gone for the day. He also showed us his water project. The village operates entirely on water captured from rain and stored in a huge bladder. No wonder the shower is only a trickle. We enjoyed dinner with Mike and the boys before retiring to our cabana.

The water storage for the village

On Thursday morning we had a nice breakfast with our new friends from Connecticut before departing for home. I am continuing to get pictures of their project and other pictures from Elias and the school. In one respect, the time there was much too short, and, in another, it wasn’t. I would love to have stayed behind to help build the basketball court and see the school in action, but, truthfully, Jen and I were exhausted and had gotten too much of the beautiful sun.

Another view of Corbiski as we depart

We aren’t accustomed to primitive accommodations and were ready for our own bed and shower. The other cause of extreme exhaustion is emotional. I was emotionally drained from the extreme poverty and living conditions of these beautiful people. There is so much they need and so many ways to help that my mind was running on overload.

Volleyball spectators
Some children from the village
Children gathering outside the school

I needed time to get my mind wrapped around how to write this. I would like to suggest ways to help with Elias’s school and water project. I would like to recommend that if this is something that interests you, contact Elias and book a tour. Day trips are available as are multiple day adventures. I would suggest, based on our experience, that one day is enough. If you are a compassionate giver, take school supplies, give generous tips to the people providing service, and offer a contribution to Elias to help with their water project and school. They will offer beautiful hand-made molas which are great souvenirs of your time there. We bought three which we’re having made into throw pillows.

The molas we purchased will make beautiful throw pillows for the sofa

I’ve seen people frame them, fashion them into handbags, or make beach bags from them. The Kuna women use this technique to make their colorful dresses. Jen and I have been supporters of the school there. When Elias presented us with the beautiful mola, which his wife made, we knew this very special gift would be framed.

Our framed Mola

The experience gave me a renewed respect for conservation. The people in these native communities get by with such a small fraction of the resources which we are accustomed to having. I felt bad having an unneeded light on, not finishing my plate, or taking an unnecessary shower. Thoughts of having to do without soap, shampoo, or deodorant horrifies me.

The cost of our adventure was all-inclusive. It covered accommodations and all of our meals. We bought some extra beverages on the islands where we visited, purchased those beautiful molas, and tipped our guides. There were otherwise no hidden costs. It would be wise, if you visit, to carry along a gallon of drinking water. Elias provided us with a bottle when we arrived. The others visiting brought along their own.

References from our visit to San Blas:

Joey Bonura Blog

More about the Kuna-Yala

Elias Perez Kuna-Yala Expeditions

Mike Evans Full Court Peace

Internet Photo

Two weeks following our adventure in San Blas, we took a whale watching excursion with our friends, Mike and Diane. The whale watching season runs from June to November. There are multiple excursions available. We opted for a catamaran hosted by Sea Las Perlas.

In the Panamanian Pacific waters, it’s possible to observe numerous families of humpback whales, who cross the warm waters of Panama’s coasts during their annual migratory journey from Antarctica. During their migration, the entire Panamanian coastline and especially the famous archipelago of Las Perlas (The Pearl Islands), have become the tourist destinations most frequented by travelers who want to witness this extraordinary spectacle of nature.

Our adventure started the day before with our drive to the Amador Causeway, where we checked into the Beachhouse Hotel. It’s a boutique bed and breakfast situated only five minutes from the Isla Flamenco Port where our excursion would begin. This was important as we were required to check in at 6:45 a.m. for the 7:30 a.m. departure.

Check-in
Our comfortable room
The Beachhouse Hotel
Our walk down the causeway

We settled into our rooms and wandered the causeway for a while before taking an Uber to dinner in Panama City. We enjoyed a delightful meal at Casa Alejandro, which is right off Avenida Balboa in downtown.

I woke early to capture some great pictures of the sunrise over Panama City from our balcony.

Sunrise over Panama City

After enjoying the beautiful sunrise, we checked out of our hotel rooms, packed the car, and drove to the dock. Check-in for our excursion was easy and we joined about 35 others on the boat. It was comfortable and there was a guide who was bi-lingual. He gave us a great description of what we could expect. We chose seats inside, which was air conditioned. There was also seating outside at the rear of the boat. Restroom facilities were available aboard the craft.

There has been extreme interest in the magnificent new cruise port being built on the east side of the Amador Causeway at the south end of the Panama Canal. Norwegian Cruise Line is already sailing from the new port, with many other cruise companies preparing to welcome people aboard from this strategic new location. This will position Panama to be one of the premier locations to catch or disembark a cruise. This is a huge feather in the cap of the Minister of Tourism, who had the vision to support this project. I captured the picture below as we left port.

The new cruise facility

There’s never a guarantee that you’ll see whales, but our experienced captain and guide didn’t fail us. About halfway into our journey to Isla Bolaños we happened upon a school of dolphins who gave us quite a show. They surrounded the boat as if we were there to entertain them. Little did they know that we were the ones being entertained.

Dolphins
Dolphins

As we continued on, we began seeing whale after whale. I suspect that we saw well over a dozen before reaching the island. The mama whales were very protective of their young and getting great pictures was nearly impossible. This is a unique experience in life that can’t be missed. The captain was always preserving safety and keeping a respectful attitude towards nature. Despite all of that, we were at times much closer to the largest mammals in the world than it appears in my photos.

I never mentioned earlier that the weather was near perfect when we left Panama City. It, however, began to change as we neared the Pearl Islands. It’s rainy season here and we’ve grown to expect anything. We made landfall on Isla Bolaños at the Sonny Island Resort around 11:00 a.m. It was there where we enjoyed lunch while it rained. The rain continued, making it difficult to enjoy the beaches of the beautiful little island resort. It did subside periodically, and we explored long enough to get some great pictures. This resort is off the grid and a favorite of people who want to disconnect for a day or more. There were cabanas and tents available for overnight guests. Power was supplied by a huge field of solar panels positioned in the middle of the compound. Restrooms and showers were available. This island happens to be the first on Joey Bonura’s 14 islands you must see while visiting Panama.

Isla Bolaños
We made landfall on Isla Bolaños at Sonny Island Resort
The tent experience
Sonny Island Resort Bahia
The Beach Bar at Sonny Island Resort
Magnificent beach
Our boat is parked way out there. We’re going to get wet on the panga back.

With rain coming down in sheets, we got soaked on the small boat which returned us to the catamaran. We didn’t hold out much hope for seeing more whales on the return trip but were pleasantly surprised.  We not only saw more whales, but we also had sufficient time to dry out before arriving back at the dock around 5:00 p.m.

Sea Las Perlas

Sonny Island Resort

In August, we explored two of the 14 islands Joey Bonura says you must see in Panama. In the opening paragraph, I alluded to the fact that I could almost own his list. It looks like we’re halfway through it. In addition to San Blas and Isla Bolaños, which I covered here, Jen and I have explored several of the others Joey talked about. I blogged about them in previous posts. If you’re interested in our experience and haven’t read the previous posts, I have linked them below.

Bocas Del Toro

Boca Chica

Isla Mamey / Isla Grande

Contadora

My blog posts are coming along more infrequently than in the past. I blame this in part to how busy we’ve become in retirement and, in part, to my weekly newsletter. I also blame it on the fact that I’ve been working on the manuscript for a mystery fiction book. The book is not yet named, although the rough draft is complete. Some days it’s difficult to put my butt in the chair and write. We’ll keep adventuring and share our experiences as long as there’s interest. Please sign up to receive the newsletter if you haven’t already. I publish it every Monday morning. Both the blog and the newsletter are free, and we never share your information. If you haven’t signed up to get the blog posts, the sign up is on the right margin. I seem to be blogging about 10 times per year.

Jen and I are going to Columbia in a few weeks. You can expect to see a fresh blog post when we return from there.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

A Full Month of Adventures

Jen and I started our month of adventures on January 23 when we went to Panama City to prepare for a short visit to Florida.  We are fully vaccinated and not required to test for covid when we travel TO Panama, but when we travel to the United States, even though we are citizens, a negative covid test is required.  I am going to climb on my soap box for one brief moment, and then I will continue the story. The United States hardly requires masks, and the infection rate is under control enough for the President to repeal mask mandates at the White House.  However, citizens traveling from a foreign country to the US must get a negative covid test to go home after a vacation or to visit friends and family there.  We got our negative covid test and, as resident Jubilado’s, paid $30 USD each with our discount.  Travelers without this benefit must pay $50 USD each, adding to the cost of travel.  I believe that this is governmental overreach.  Immigrants crossing the southern border are not tested and are allowed to board buses and flights all over the country, but as a tax-paying US Citizen, I must provide a negative test to go home.  It is time to stand up to the tyranny of the government on this matter. These useless requirements should be removed.

We got our negative test at the airport which is required to be taken the day before travel. This cleared us to travel to our 2nd home in Florida on a flight the next day.  Our winter guests in our condo were to arrive on February 1st, and we wanted to make sure everything was perfect for their arrival.

We got our negative test.

On Monday we boarded our flight to Florida.  While in Florida we visited Jen’s brother, Bill, and his wife, Deb.  They were snow-birding in Fort Myers, and it provided an excellent time to catch up with them.  They treated us to a great meal at one of their favorite restaurants.  In the morning, we all went over to a great outlet mall near their place, and I managed to buy a jacket and a couple of new shirts.  Note to self…even in Florida a jacket will be necessary during the winter months. We had a delightful visit at their vacation condo, before continuing on to our place in Port Charlotte.

Mom and Rich had been staying in our condo since the end of November.  It was a great time to be sure all the kinks were worked out.  There were a few small mechanical issues that they were able to take care of for us before we arrived.  One other issue required that we replace the washer and dryer before our guest’s arrival.  With the nationwide logistics crisis, this was easier said than done.  But we persevered and on Saturday, the new laundry pair was delivered.  This gave mom time to do their laundry before traveling to Panama.  We also had time to get all the sheets and towels washed before leaving, getting the condo in tip top shape for our winter visitors.

In addition to dealing with a few small problems, we were able to do some other visiting before turning our condo over on February 1st.

Lime Tequila in Port Charlotte is our favorite when we are there

The main reason we wanted to be in Florida at the end of January was to bring Mom and Rich back to Panama.  They had been reluctant to travel to Panama because of the language barrier, and they had rarely been outside of the United States.  On Tuesday February 1st the four of us boarded our flight in Miami for our non-stop flight to Tocumen International Airport in Panama City, Panama.

Loaded and awaiting departure

Our arrival in Panama was late evening, and I choose not to drive after dark when possible.  We had reservations at the Riande Hotel near the airport. This is where Jen and I had stayed prior to our departure for Florida, and they allowed us to park in their secure lot for about $5 USD per day.  This detail is for those of you who may be looking for similar options in your travel to and from Panama.  We stayed the night, had a nice breakfast, and found the car just as I left it.  We loaded up the next day, and began our journey to Coronado.

Our journey took us past Casa de Jamon and Price Smart.  We made brief stops at both.  Casa de Jamon is a great restaurant supply-type food store in Costa Del Este.  We picked up a few groceries there and went on to Price Smart for a few other things.  Then it was on to our home in Coronado.

We arrived in Coronado mid-afternoon, and our special guests were able to settle in and relax in preparation for their full month of adventure.  Our dinner plan took us to Gold Coast Brewery for half price wing night.  There they met a few of our friends, and we enjoyed the wings.

I do not know where to begin other than to take the whole month in chronological order.  That first partial week, we relaxed by the pool, took the buggy to the beach for some sand play, Rich got a haircut, and Mom and Jen got pedicures.  Thursday is our weekly domino game. Mom and Rich joined us each week during their visit.   Throughout Covid, Jen and I got together with the same small group of friends for this weekly event, and it has continued.  Everyone agrees that it was one of the things that helped us all maintain our sanity during the lockdowns and other measures imposed by MINSA to keep everyone safe from the virus.

Low tide. We explored a great stretch of beach
Pool time
Saturday morning at the club pool
Mom got a beach excursion too

My favorite barber gave Rich a trim.

The other constant during their visit was Sunday worship at Coronado Bible Church.  Each week we had brunch after church with many of our awesome friends.  Our special guests enjoyed the church, brunches, and meeting a few of our friends each week.  They were slowly beginning to understand why we love our life here in Panama.  Mom loved that I was an active participant in the praise team at church.

Our first adventure outside our little community was to El Valle de Anton.  We included good friends Diane and Mike for a full day of exploring up there.  El Valle has been a favorite of all of our visitors, with those who have had repeated visits always wanting to return.  There are so many places there that we had a difficult time choosing which to explore.  That day we took them to the Orchid Sanctuary, The Butterfly House, El Macho Falls, and the Sunday Market.  We were disappointed that our favorite restaurant was closed.  This gave us a chance to try another place that just did not meet our high standards.  The market gave me a chance to grab some fresh vegetables while everyone else shopped the vendors.  El Valle is a short 45-minute drive from Coronado straight up the mountain.  The entire village lies in the crater of a volcano.  The climate is a bit cooler than the beach communities, and many expats live there.  Check out my book or the archives of this blog to learn more about this magnificent place.

Ready for adventures

El Macho Falls. We couldn’t get them to zip-line it.

The bookstore, El Hombre de La Mancha, had requested more books which I was able to bring back from the States.  The second Thursday our guests were here we went back into the city to make the delivery.  This was a big highlight for me as, when we arrived, they asked me for an interview and photo session.  They are promoting my book on their social media, and it appears that it is selling well in their stores.  The delivery allowed them to stock it in every store nationwide.  We were surprised to find it among the Panama Travel and History books despite the fact that it is only offered in English.  People who have looked for it in the English section have been unable to find it in the stores.  The price for it here in their stores is higher, but the bookstore is a huge advocate for literacy in Panama.  That makes my day to feel like I am doing some small part for literacy here.

Mom found it in the main store in San Francisco

Karen Ceballos, Director of Marketing at El Hombre de La Mancha

After leaving the bookstore we were able to take Mom and Rich for lunch at one of our favorite restaurants in the city, Michael’s.  Mike Nikolich is the owner, and his place is a very successful for breakfast and lunch. He is a native of Michigan and has spent years in the restaurant business in Panama.  Following lunch, we went down to Panama Viejo.  This is the original ruins of the first Panama City.  It was the first port where goods entered the country and were transported over land to the Caribbean for shipment to the America’s, Europe, and Spain.  This gave our guests a perspective of what Panama was like before the canal was constructed.  This location was repeatedly attacked by pirates who were after the precious gold and silver from South America.  The city was later relocated to what is now called Casco Viejo (old town), where they could more easily protect it.

Mike Nikolich grabbed a copy of my book.
Mom and Rich in front of the tower at Panama Viejo

The following week we caught up with our good friend, and the master of tour guides, Marc Vargas, to take an adventure to the Caribbean side of the country.  Marc picked us up and took us for a look at the Agua Clara Lock on the Caribbean end of the canal.  Agua Clara is the new lock designed to accommodate the huge Pana Max ships.  This gave Rich a firsthand look at how the canal works.  Marc took us from there to the Gatun Locks just adjacent to the Agua Clara lock.  The visitor center there is closed, but we were able to see a cruise ship passing through over the hill.  He continued on down to the Gatun Dam where the Chagres River is dammed to provide water to Lake Gatun which is a huge part of the canal passage.  We went from there across the new Atlantic Bridge.  I call this the bridge to nowhere because, when it was completed, the road leading away from it on the west side of the canal was dirt.  It is now paved and leads to Fort Sherman, Shelter Bay and Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  We visited all three.  The road is now nicely paved right through the jungle to the ruins at San Lorenzo.  It is also paved all the way north to Shelter Bay.   Fort Sherman has been mostly deserted since the United States turned the canal over to the Panamanian people.  Shelter Bay remains a prosperous marina which is protected from hurricanes.  After lunch at the marina, we went through the jungle to Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  This was a wonderful experience.  The Fort is under full restoration to maintain its UNESCO World Heritage designation.  I cannot wait to visit again after the restoration is completed.  Despite the construction going on, this is a beautiful tour.  The Fort sits at the mouth of the Chagres River high on a bluff where it was easily protected from the pirates.  Thank you, Marc, for showing us a great time.

Marc gives us a little detail on the new Agua Clara Lock
The Gatun Dam
A cruise ship passing through the Gatun Locks
How about lunch at Shelter Bay?

This Coate’ came to see where we were going
There was a major restoration in progress at San Lorenzo Castle

Fort San Lorenzo Castle sits at the mouth of the Chagres River
Marc checks out the heavy artillery
Fort Sherman is in ruins…no need to stop here
The Atlantic Bridge

Every week during their visit we went to the club at Coronado Luxury Club & Suites.  Jen and I are members, and we enjoy the entertainment on Saturday nights.  That first week we enjoyed a comedian in the Sports Bar followed by Pascal Turner at the pool bar.  We especially enjoy Pascal, and, fortunately, he played every Saturday night during their visit with us.  Pascal often invites me to sing with him and it has become something for which I look forward.  The third Saturday we took our special guests to the fine dining restaurant at the club, Secundo Piso.  We invited friends John and Barbie to join us.  This was a special treat, and it is one of the places which we highly recommend.  Reservations are required and they are only open on weekends.  In the past, non-members have been welcomed at the resort on Saturday night.

Mom and Rich take the opportunity to dance
We did too
John and Barbie got in a little Salsa

Also, that last week in Coronado Mom and Rich spent three nights at the resort hotel to give us all a break from each other.  Jen and I get free nights every year with our paid membership, and we wanted them to have a special treat.  They hung out by the resort pool and got waited on.  Rich wanted to order foo foo drinks with fruit and little umbrellas.  I wish we had pictures of that.  During one of those days at the resort, we got together for a special late lunch at the Beach Club.  The Beach Club is reserved for members and resort guests.  We had a nice lunch and missed the last shuttle back.  I wish they had let us know that it would be the last, but we were hardly done eating when it came.  The staff sent us back on the employee bus.  Someone suggested that we just stay and sleep on the beach.  That was not an option…LOL.

A bird’s eye view of the beach at the club
Mom and Rich at the Beach Club

Almost every Tuesday we ventured to the movie.  The local theater, Cine Moderno, plays movies in English every Tuesday, and it is a favorite way to spend Tuesday evening in the community.  We always meet up with many friends there and enjoy the show.  For Jubilado’s (retired people), the movie plays for $2.50 USD each.  They have great refreshments also at a reasonable price. I put the movie schedule in my newsletter every week, but recently they have added more shows in English on other days.  I cannot always put all the shows and times, so check with the theater for additional showtimes.  Rich said he had not been to the movies in years, and both he and mom thoroughly enjoyed this activity…even if the movie was not always something we would normally go out of our way to see.

We ventured to Santa Clara to another of our favorite places on the beach, Deliciosa Del Mar.  We invited friends, Lorin and Judy, along for what we hoped would be a lobster feast.  Judy gets the credit for the magnificent sunset photo in the featured position above. Unfortunately, we missed the beginning of Lobster season by a few weeks.  We all still had some great fresh seafood before venturing onto the beach.  Everyone had a great time people watching and swimming in the ocean.  This little restaurant has palapas on the beach where you can eat or have drinks.  They rent them to people who do not order from them, but they are free to patrons.  We all had a great time.

Yes, we got in a swim
Mom and Rich hanging out in the palapa
Lorin and Judy walking the beach
Mom and Rich wade in

That last Friday night in Coronado we caught up with Mike and Diane for a great dinner at Café Med. We always seem to get a great meal there and this visit was no exception.

The ambience at Café Med is stunning

To cap off our month of adventures with Mom and Rich, we went from Coronado to Panama City at the beginning of Carnival traffic.  Travel into the city can be a challenge during Carnival.  We soon encountered the lane inversion and we were sharing our side of the highway with traffic heading to the beaches.  This was not horrible, but it slowed down our journey.  We anticipated travel challenge, so we wanted to have plenty of time to get them near the airport for their journey home on March 1st.  This gave us a couple of days to adventure in the city.

The lane inversion

When we crossed the Bridge of the Americas, the decision was made to check out the Amador Causeway and go to the Biodiversity Museum.  This is something that all of our past visitors have enjoyed, and we knew that Mom and Rich would love the experience as well.  We were not wrong.  The Biodiversity Museum is something that no visitor to Panama should miss.  We went down the causeway for lunch and some souvenir shopping, followed by our visit to the museum.  After the museum, we checked into our hotel at the Radisson Panama Canal.

Check out the huge Fig Tree
Panama City skyline from Amador Causeway Love the new Sombreros!
See the Biodiversity Museum over Rich’s shoulder?

Even after almost four years living in Panama, I look for new adventures when we have company.  Sometimes the new adventures are a giant failure, but this one was a definite high and one of the best experiences for myself.  On Saturday evening we ventured to the JW Marriott (former Trump Tower) for a ringside seat on the 66th floor for sunset.  The pool bar is owned by the casino and only accessible through the casino.  The elevator will only stop at the parking garage or the 66th floor unless someone has a key to stop elsewhere.  When we exited the elevator, we were welcomed into an amazing outside venue with an infinity pool, and our reserved table was waiting for us next to the pool.  The views of the city and sunset were unbelievable.  We enjoyed a light dinner (pub food) and drinks while we watched the sunset.  This will be another of those experiences that we share with others.  If you get the chance, do not miss this one.

The following morning, we were whisked away by shuttle to a boat dock in the middle of the Gamboa Rain Forest where we caught our boat.  It is definitely a small world when every one else on the tour bus is from the Grand Rapids, Michigan area, really close to where mom and Rich live!  The Pacific Queen took us on a partial transit of the Panama Canal.  Rich was so intrigued by the canal that we could not deny him this experience.  When we departed the dock, we had a few drops of rain which quickly subsided.  Our boat went south on the Panama Canal as the guide told us interesting facts about what we were seeing.  We traveled past a Pana Max ship, the largest of container ships.  We would see this ship later passing through the big new lock at Miraflora while we were passing through the smaller locks.  We passed the prison where Noriega spent the last years of his life, and several big dredging cranes.  The Gaillard Cut, which was formally known as the Culebra Cut, is where most of the lives were lost in the construction of the canal.  It is the narrow mountain pass taking the canal through the Continental Divide.  This stretch of the canal requires constant maintenance due to the mud slides and silt accumulating in its bottom.  This is where the canal authority spends the majority of its maintenance budget.

The prison where Noriega was incarcerated
Titan, the biggest crane on the canal
This is a large Pana Max ship. We passed it after entering the canal from the dock in Gamboa
Our transit vessel, The Pacific Queen

We continued through the cut and past the Centennial Bridge before reaching the Pedro Miguel Lock. We moved into the lock which we shared on this journey with another tour boat, a small cargo vessel, and a larger ship.  We were lowered in the lock to the level of Mira Flores Lake.  Mira Flores Lake is a manmade lake connecting the Pedro Miguel lock with the Mira Flores Locks.  Once across the small lake, we entered the Mira Flores locks once again sharing with the other three vessels. Mira Flores has two locks taking us down to sea level.  After passing through all three locks, we moved on toward the Pacific and our destination port.  We passed under the Bridge of the Americas, then past our hotel and the Amador Causeway before rounding the point and making dock at the Port of Panama.  The total time of our excursion was right around 5 hours.  Previously, Jen and I did a full passage which took around 12 hours.  The partial passage was much better, as the full passage took several hours crossing Lake Gatun.

A small cargo vessel entering the lock at Pedro Miguel ahead of us
The Welcome Center at the Mira Flores Locks.
The Centennial Bridge. See the Gaillard Cut (part of it) as we approach.
This is the 1st lock at Mira Flores. You can see the last lock ahead of us.
While going through the locks we were next to this other tour boat.
Moving out from the locks toward the Pacific
Every vessel has a pilot from the canal authority during transit. This is our pilot departing the vessel.
Welcome to Port Panama

Our day was not over.  We went back to the hotel for a minute, and Marc Vargas picked us up for a little tour of Casco Viejo.  We wanted to have another sunset experience from a rooftop in Casco.  Marc selected Tantalo, where we had a bite to eat and watched the sunset from a different perspective.  Marc graciously showed us around a little, and we took in the amazing sites of Casco Viejo.  This is one of those places that really requires an entire day.  If you are fortunate enough to get to this neighborhood, check out the many plazas, the churches, The Panama Canal Museum (among others), the artisan vendors, architecture, restaurants, coffee shops, chocolatiers, souvenir shops, and do not miss the rooftop bars.

A short walk through Casco Viejo
Cool picture…Thanks, Marc
Bring on the food and drinks
the main Cathedral of Panama
Another cool picture. This is a panorama before the sun began setting.

On their last day in Panama, we mostly just rested from exhaustion.  We relocated to a hotel near the airport, got covid tests, and shopped in a mall nearby.  Jen and I are still recovering here, and I imagine that mom and Rich are doing the same in Florida.

Our visitors waiting to be tested with their capable translator
El Hombre de La Mancha at the Metro Mall
They had it in stock

For more information about adventuring in Panama, grab a copy of my book 2 Retire In Panama?.  It is available at Amazon, on Kindle (Kindle Unlimited Readers get it free), and at El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores in Panama.  I am sharing some links below for some of the adventures and sites that contributed to this great month of adventures with my folks.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Casa del Jamon

Coronado Bible Church

Coronado Luxury Club & Suites

2 Retire In Panama?

Tantalo

Panama Canal Tour

El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores

Gold Coast Brewery

Marc Vargas

Biodiversity Museum

Pascal Turner

El Valle de Anton

Panama Viejo

Cine Moderno Coronado

Casco Viejo

Café Med

Blessings for an Amazing Holiday Season from Panama

As I toyed with the idea of publishing a blog post to wrap up the year, I could not help but think about the letter we write every year to include in our Christmas cards.  I thought how simple it would be to write a post by using the letter as a reflection of our year.  Our list of holiday greetings go out to about 40 friends and family by U.S. Postal Service.  When I thought about that, I thought how there was no way this completed our desire to send greetings to everyone.  We are blessed to have friends, and others who we consider family, all over the world now.  Our core of friends and  family here in Panama swell and contract with the seasons, but is tending to mostly grow now with my book on the shelf for more than a year.  I continue to be amazed by the reach of the written word and how people are helped by sharing the experiences of others.  I get frequent messages in my inbox from fans sharing pictures of themselves holding my book.  I also have people approaching me to ask if I am the guy who wrote that book.  These people have often become fast friends.  I have even started getting messages from people who are purchasing the book locally since it started showing up on the shelves of El Hombre de la Mancha the first week in December.  There is no doubt that this has been an exciting year, so allow me to unpack our   Christmas letter below.  After the letter I will make a few more observations and share some pictures.

We hope that this letter finds you all in good health and enjoying the holiday season. We are happy and healthy and still enjoying our retirement in Panama.

2021 has been a slow and unique year but filled with blessings for us. It started off with a bang as we were in Gulf Shores, Alabama to ring in the new year with our good friends, Ray and Diane Barber. Although the sun was shining every day, it was a little on the chilly side there. When we left to come home to Panama, it was a mere 34 degrees Fahrenheit. We were happy to come home to the 34-degree Celsius weather!

In January, there was a second wave of Covid in Panama, and we were put back onto restrictions. We had a special trip planned to Bocas del Toro with our travel buddies, Lyn and Ty, for Lyn’s birthday. Bocas del Toro is a series of islands on the Caribbean side of Panama. Unfortunately, our trip was cancelled due to the restrictions.  We were able to reschedule it to April but, as is just our luck, we hit the beginning of rainy season there. We still
had a good time, but it was sure wet and muddy!

In May, Melinda (Greg’s sister) found us a cute little condo in Port Charlotte, Florida. We thought that pulling money out of the stock market and investing in a hard asset was probably a good move for us, so we purchased it. It became ours the first of June. We spent several weeks in the states during this time decorating and making sure the condo was to our liking. We did find time, though, to take a trip to Michigan to visit with
family and friends. It was nice to see everybody and to spend time on Gravel Lake, our old stomping grounds.

Our plan with the condo is to rent it to snowbirds for the winter months and to stay there when we visit. By the time we left Florida for home in June, we had tenants lined up for February through April of 2022. What a blessing! And it is nice to have a place to stay when we visit the states, so we don’t have to impose on family and friends (at least in Florida)! And it is also a nice place for Greg’s mom and Rich to get away from the cold of Michigan when it’s not rented.

Since coming back home to Panama in June, we have not traveled much. We went to an archeological site, which was on a farm in Las Tablas, and explored around that area. We spent a long weekend in Boquete with Greg’s writing group and did the hanging bridges tour in and above the tree line (a huge accomplishment for Jen with her fear of heights). We also decided to spend a weekend in Panama City and explore the shops, restaurants, and other tourist areas we had not yet seen.

It seems like we are not doing much, but it seems we are always busy! To occupy her time, Jen is typing transcripts for a couple different courts in Michigan. To occupy his time, Greg is working on a new project — a murder mystery fiction. In addition, he is very busy promoting his published book, 2 Retire in Panama?, which is doing well. His book was approved to be sold in the Panamanian bookstore, El Hombre de la Mancha (The Man of La Mancha). That is very exciting for us!

We are looking forward to 2022. Greg’s mom and Rich are coming to visit us for the entire month of February, and we have our good friends, Ray and Diane, visiting us for a week in April. Our home is always open for visitors. We know with Covid that travel plans are iffy and have to remain very fluid. We’ve tossed around the idea of traveling or not traveling in 2022. We’ll see what we decide next year.

Our wish for all of you this Christmas is to be able to spend time with family and loved ones, and to stay safe, happy, and healthy in 2022.

Have a very Merry Christmas!

No recap of 2021 would be complete, for me, without sharing the amazing Father’s Day celebration in Florida.  This was the first time that all three daughters, all four grandchildren, my dad, sister, and I have been all together to celebrate Father’s Day.  We got these special pictures and many others.

My beautiful daughters and grandchildren
Father's Day with my dad (Doug), and sister (Melinda)
Father’s Day with my dad (Doug), and sister (Melinda)
Father's Day with my beautiful daughters Jennifer, Hope, and Kara
Father’s Day with my beautiful daughters Jennifer, Hope, and Kara

They got me a special Father’s Day gift from Story Worth.  Story Worth sends me a weekly prompt to write from.  This goes on for a year and at the end of the year I will get a bound hardcover book of all my written prompts to share with my family.  I highly recommend this gift for yourself or a loved one.  This is a gift that will live on in infamy. I have attached a link below to subscribe to Story Worth. The subscription link below will give you a $10 discount while crediting me with a sale to help purchase volumes for my family.

The pictures above of our condo in Port Charlotte.  It is only a couple of miles from the harbor and sits on a great location with a lake, pool, and clubhouse.  The neighborhood is quiet and the area is convenient to everything.  It is a bonus that it is near my dad and sister.

Boquete’ Writer’s Retreat
Bocas Del Toro
Boarding for the 1 hour flight to Bocas
The pier at our Bocas Resort
We bought a new car this year
Made a new friend at the pool

The pictures above are but a few more highlights from our year.  The biggest highlights include friends old and new.  I have around 600 subscribers now to my free weekly newsletter.  It helps me to keep information about Panama fresh for friends and visitors.  Readers of my book appreciate the newsletter for keeping them informed in changes to covid requirements and other government information which is constantly changing.  Recent changes in immigration requirements, for some visas, caused a portion of my book to be already outdated.  As we prepare for Christmas and the coming of a new year here in Panama, I remain committed to publishing updates to the original book and completing my first work of fiction.

A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of appearing on a podcast interview with Roberto Hernandez at Morning Tempo.  My interview was very humbling. It has been my goal through the writing of my blog, book, and newsletters to help people. Through the process, I have become an influencer and a go-to guy. I did not set out for that distinction, but enjoy the feeling that people are being helped. It amazes me that there are so many people, like myself, who would rather explore Panama themselves on their own terms without being driven around on a “relocation tour”. A link to that interview is below. If you click the link you can read the synapsis or listen to the entire interview (it is 27 minutes long)

I hope you will consider subscribing to this blog and the free weekly newsletter.  Liking and sharing also helps others to find it that may not see it otherwise.  I have the previous blog posts listed on the right sidebar and the previous newsletters are on my Pinterest feed on the tool bar below.  I often share interesting things on my You Tube channel which is also on the toolbar below.  At the bottom of this post I am sharing links to several of the things that I talked about above.  We love to hear from all our readers, so feel free to send us a message.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Click here to visit Amazon and purchase 2 Retire In Panama?

Click here to visit the website for El Hombre de la Mancha.

Click here to subscribe to my free weekly newsletter.

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Click here to listen to my interview at Morning Tempo.

Story Worth