The best place to explore from…Panama!

I’ve talked at length in my book and newsletter about the amazing travel opportunities for retired people living in Panama. Part of the reason for our retirement location decision was the travel we wanted to do as we approached our golden years. We wanted a home where travel is essentially easy to destinations worldwide. Recently, we reported on the opening of the new cruise port on the Amador Causeway in Panama City. When Norwegian began servicing the port, we learned of an amazing cruise itinerary. It turns out that we were among several expat couples who noticed the extraordinary opportunity. We booked the cruise with no concern for air travel.

Rendition of the completed cruise port

We traveled with two other couples from our home in Coronado by private shuttle on February 22. The cruise port is still not 100% complete due to construction delays caused by Covid, so our driver dropped us at the amazing, new convention center where our luggage was collected, documents were processed, and the immigration process was completed. We waited in the comfortable facility to be called in groups for shuttle to our ship. The Norwegian Jewel is one of the smaller ships on their fleet, however we were told that it was leaving port at full capacity (about 2400 passengers).

Newly completed Panama City Convention Center

The passengers were all checked in and comfortably settled into their staterooms by 3:00 and the beautiful ship pulled away from the dock headed to the Gulf of Panama to get in the que for the Panama Canal. We began exploring to find the restaurants and bars aboard. We had dinner overlooking the Gulf of Panama. Following dinner, we found entertainment that surpassed belief. The ship had vocal musicians and dancers/acrobats who entertained the passengers at several venues, including the Stardust theater where nightly shows played.

At 6:00 a.m., the ship began its transit of the Panama Canal. An esteemed member of the Panama Canal Authority, Mr. Jaime Robleto, gave a full narration of the history and construction of this amazing structure. As we passed through each lock and Lake Gatun, the ship moved effortlessly under the direction of the Panama Canal Pilot, who boarded and took control of the ship’s transit. It was amazing how quickly the day passed before going under the Atlantic Bridge and traveling out into the Caribbean. The Panama Canal Pilot had exited the ship, and the captain regained control for the overnight passage to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.

Whether drawn to beautiful scenery, fascinated by history, or craving adventure, the best way to explore Puerto Limon was to take home a story from an exciting shore excursion. We opted to take the Caribbean Train, Eco Cruise, and Countryside tour. We boarded the open-air train and traveled through the rainforest and banana groves of Costa Rica until reaching our tour bus and being transported to a canal adventure. We motored through mangroves where we witnessed wildlife indigenous to the Costa Rican paradise. Forgive me, but the opportunity for great pictures here was limited. Following our adventure, we were returned to the ship.

The ship left Costa Rica for travel to Curacao. The trip took us through the night and a full day at sea, during which we were able to enjoy the pools, spa, driving range, casino, sports courts, jogging track, and numerous other activities. We enjoyed the tribute to Elton John by Jeffrey Allen in the Stardust Theater after dinner. During the cruise we found ourselves also enjoying the music of Louis Razon in the Magnum Bar. Every stage on the ship offered different entertainment and it was often difficult to decide where to be.

Our cruise package gave us dinner at one of the premium restaurants. We opted for Cagney’s Steakhouse, where our group enjoyed prime rib which we rarely get in Panama. The dinner was a highlight of our trip and the only time we took pictures of the food. I must say, however that the food aboard was all spectacular with one exception. We checked in at Chin Chin for Asian Fusion one night, and everyone at the table was disappointed. Nobody finished their plate. The great thing about a cruise is if one place disappoints, there are others. We slipped into a different place later for appetizers and dessert. O’Sheehan’s Pub was open 24 hours and proved to be a favorite venue for some of our meals. We all enjoyed Azura for several dinners and The Palace for other dinners and breakfasts. We enjoyed the buffet for other breakfasts and a lunch or two. Most of us tried to avoid the buffet for portion control reasons.

On day 5 of our adventure, the captain parked the ship in the port at Willemstad, Curacao around 2:00 p.m. Willemstad is the capital of the Dutch Caribbean Island, Curacao and its beauty hit us as soon as the ship pulled into port. The island is known for its pastel-colored town square as vibrant as tropical flora. Unique to Willemstad is the floating pedestrian bridge that spans the deep and narrow channel splitting the city’s two districts. We opted to explore the shopping, a fort at the port, and have an ice-cold local beer at one end of the floating bridge. It was Sunday and we found several of the shops closed. After a couple of hours, we returned to the ship and continued to enjoy the onboard activities. We left port around 9:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to our next destination Bonaire.

We arrived at Kralendijk, Bonaire around 7:00 a.m. on day 6. The countless coral reefs surrounding its shore are home to more than 400 species of marine life, earning it the nickname diver’s paradise. Many on the ship took off for dive or snorkeling adventures, while others boarded a glass bottomed gondola for prime undersea views. Still others explored the Washington Slagbaii National Park which covers a fifth of the island. Bonaire offered endless outdoor adventures with a healthy dose of colonial charm. Our little group of adventurers opted for some local shopping. The ship departed at around 8:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to Aruba.

The ship docked at Oranjestad, Aruba at 7:00 a.m. on day 7. Oranjestad, Aruba is a bustling harbor city whose streets and malls are dotted with international luxury retailers, diverse boutiques, and dazzling jewelry stores. Fascinating restored landmark buildings can be found along the way, such as Fort Zoutman, Aruba’s oldest building dating back to 1798, which was built to protect the city from pirates. There’s also the Willem III Tower built in 1868. It was once a lighthouse and public clocktower. The Historical Museum, positioned between the two buildings, houses a permanent exhibition outlining the main events in Aruban history. We opted for a best of Aruba tour where we were treated with one of the best guides around. She drove our bus across most of the island stopping to allow us to explore some of the most talked about sites on there. We motored past Haystack before stopping at Casibari, a natural rock formation. We exited the bus and were allowed time to climb the rocks and explore. Once we returned to the bus, she drove us to a very interesting Aloe plantation and factory for a tour. Then we went to the California Lighthouse, all the way getting interesting history and information about “one happy island.” She drove us past all of the beaches and resorts before our final stop, where we were able to spend a few minutes at Eagle Beach. We saw wind surfers and pirate ships along the way. This was a private tour that we arranged outside the ship. She kindly dropped us near the shopping district, so we could explore before returning to the ship. The captain departed around 8:00 p.m. despite the fact that everyone had not returned. Must be that those 2 people were having much too fun and lost track of time. A cruise ship has to maintain a rigid schedule. This was the busiest of the ports we visited with at least 5 other cruise ships docked. Our next stop was Santa Marta.

After 1 day and 2 nights of onboard activities, we made landfall at 8:00 a.m. in Santa Marta, Colombia. Santa Marta is described as pure flavor. The city’s diversity is evident in its landscape, people, and every aspect of its culture. It’s a destination that truly embraces its visitors and makes them feel at home. Santa Marta’s beautiful terrain is its most distinguishing feature with unforgettable landscapes, green foliage, blue sea, yellow sun, and sand. The contrast between the beaches and the white peaked Sierra Nevada, makes Santa Marta a must-see destination. We opted for a full day journey to the Taironaka Indian Reserve. Our tour bus transported us through the city and into the highlands of the Seirra Nevada Mountains, where we exited and hiked to the reserve. This was a difficult hike for many of us and it wasn’t recommended for anyone over 60 years old, children, or anyone with medical conditions. Our tour group had all of these, and a medic hiked with us to the reserve. The reserve had been restored to resemble some of what it may have looked like when occupied by the indigenous people. A museum there contained artifacts uncovered and our guide filled us with history and culture of the people. These were believed to be the first inhabitants of the country. They were gold crafters who also made beautiful pottery, textiles, and baskets. The Spanish had looted their graves which contained gold, jewelry, and other artifacts. Fortunately, their only interest was the gold and much of the rest was left behind for us to enjoy. There was a river nearby and several of our fellow adventurers walked down to wade into its cool water before making the hike down. Our bus returned us to the ship. The exhausted passengers rested and recovered on the ride.

The ship departed at 5:00 p.m. for the overnight journey to Cartagena. The crew on the ship told us that this was the first time they had stopped at Santa Marta.

We arrived on day 10 of our adventure at Cartagena, Colombia. Cartagena is a gorgeous fishing village on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. It has excellent beaches, a historic old town, and colonial architecture. Often considered one of the safest places in Colombia, it’s no wonder it’s a popular cruise port. The first thing one notices when exiting the port is the fabulous estuary between the dock and the street where taxis are available. Our small group got a taxi into the walled city. The taxis and traffic were brutal. The taxi drivers were trying to get usurious fares, and we negotiated before getting into one. Even with careful negotiations we paid $5 USD each for the hot uncomfortable ride. We explored part of the walled city and bought some small trinkets before returning to the ship. Our return taxi ended up costing a more reasonable $10 for four people.

Once onboard the ship, we were all feeling sad that our cruise was coming to an end. The ship departed port at 3:00 p.m. for our final leg of the trip to Colon, Panama. We all went to our staterooms to pack. All luggage had to be in the hall by 9:00 p.m. We went for a final delicious meal at what had become one of our favorite restaurants, Azura. We visited some of our favorite crew members who had served us well on our journey and took in a final show at the Stardust Theater.

Our favorite Bar Server has just brought us a round of mini beers. He takes a mean selfie.
Forbidden shot during one of the acrobatic performances.

I woke early, showered, packed my carry-on bag, and went up on deck to enjoy our arrival to Colon. I was taken back by how beautiful the port town appeared as it slept. I know from experience that this is one of the most dangerous towns in the country. We had our private transportation picking us up on the dock. The extreme poverty was evident as our driver navigated his way to the highway and our return to Coronado.

Jen and I are happy to be returning to a normal schedule of adventuring. Later this year, we will be visiting Riviera Maya in Mexico, where we will stay in a resort near Cancun. In December, we will be traveling to Peru where we will visit Machu Pichu and take an exploration into the Amazon Rainforest. From Peru, we plan to travel to the United States for a few days in Florida. Although the arrangements are still fuzzy, we are planning a cruise from Santiago, Chili around the entire continent of South America, which will conclude in Rio de Janeiro. That will be in March and April of next year. Stay tuned for more. If you want to hear about all our exciting travel, make sure you subscribe to get our blog delivered to your inbox. We will never spam you or sell your information.

Blessings from Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Our Bocas Del Toro Adventure

Last year when I published my book, Jen and I had not been to Bocas. Our trip last week was one of the most anticipated adventures yet, and I was really looking forward to making more great memories with our travel buddies Lyn and Ty.

I would like to share the first paragraph or two from the Bocas Del Toro chapter of my book to set the stage.

No book on Panama would be complete without a little bit about Bocas del Toro. Jen and I have yet to explore this magnificent part of the country we now call home, but I felt compelled to write a bit about it. I shamelessly stole a bit of information about it from their official web site, bocasdeltoro.com. I think that I will be forgiven.

Several friends have visited this magnificent area and most say that the average age there is much lower than the beach area where we live. They tell me that the
islands of Bocas are a continuous party. This seems to me that it may be the place to find the party crowd. Internationalliving.com describes Bocas del Toro as the
best-kept secret in the Caribbean, and that makes it a rare off-the-radar gem indeed. Part-mainland and part archipelago, Bocas is one of Panama’s two western-most provinces, right on the busy border with neighboring Costa Rica.

On Tuesday we left our home in Coronado to drive to Albrook regional airport in Panama City to catch the 1-hour flight to Bocas Town. We allowed 4 hours for the 90-minute drive to alleviate concern about morning traffic. Waze usually works remarkably well for directing us, but on Tuesday there was a protest on the Bridge of the Americas which crosses the Panama Canal. The protest shut down the bridge and we were trapped in traffic for almost 4 hours. Our flight left before we arrived at the airport. We were fortunate to be able to rebook on the 1 pm flight and settled in at the airport coffee shop to wait. Rebooking our flight was simple but cost us $50 per couple. We contacted the property where we would be staying to let them know we would miss the water taxi which was scheduled to pick us up for our adventure. Missing the already arranged transportation cost us another $30 per couple. Another water taxi had to be ordered for us. 

Awaiting departure

 

Finally on our way
Our ride to Bocas Town

Upon arrival at the airport in Bocas Town we were quickly processed through and a taxi took us to the dock. Our boat captain would be there in a few minutes which gave us time to walk down the street and get soft drinks and chips at a deli. Our ride on the water taxi from Bocas to our accommodations on Isla Bastimentos took about 45 minutes, so it was nice to have the chips and drinks. We had all had light breakfasts and no lunch.

Jen an I on the boat to Bastimentos
Caribbean music at the airport
Lyn and Ty on the boat to Bastimentos

It was a beautiful sunny day, and we were all dreaming of a nice swim and getting settled in our cabanas. We were met on the dock by a friendly crew who gave us a bit of information and showed us to our cabanas. We ordered drinks and changed into our swimsuits. After the day we were having the swim was delightful. We were told that dinner was at 8pm so when it started getting dark, we went to shower and met back in the dining area to play dominoes with Lyn and Ty. We also spent a little time trying to plan our excursions. Snorkeling, visiting a native village, and a tour to the organic cacao farm were all high on our list. One snorkeling adventure promised dolphins.

our dock
Lyn and Ty grabbed a Kayak
our cabana

Dinner was delightful and we were all so hungry that we scarfed our food and went to bed. The beds in our cabanas were protected by mosquito netting. I also opted to use Deep Woods Off the entire time which proved minimally effective toward the end. We were deep in the jungle and the actual amenities were sparse at best. We had water sometimes and no outlets in our cabana except for a USB port. At least we were able to keep our phones charged. The only thing a phone is good for deep in the jungle of Bastimenos is the camera. We took a lot of pictures. We were getting a great dose of data detox. It was possible to get an internet connection with a 20- minute walk up the beach, and we did check in on Facebook and looked at e-mail a couple of times. 

Our dining room
This was out typical dinner plate
Our destination for internet

If you think that the end of our woes was when we missed our flight you are sadly mistaken. Once we settled into our beds under the mosquito netting it started to rain. It rained almost the entire time we were there. That gave us time to play more dominoes, card games and feed the mosquitos. Every time the rain stopped, we tried to get an adventure in, but the mud and humidity were unbelievable. I am trying to spin the positive stuff out of our adventure. The problem is that our host was very inattentive and seemed to care less that our plans were being short circuited by the rain. He kept to a strict schedule of breakfast at 8 am, lunch at 1 pm and dinner at 8 pm. Our drinks, excursions and meals were included, but getting a drink other than mealtime proved difficult. He said help yourself, but there was not much to choose from. 

Now that I have climbed off my soap box let me tell you about what we did manage to do…The first excursion we took was to a native Ngäbe-Buglé village.   The Ngäbe-Buglé are one of Panama’s largest indigenous tribes. The boat ride to the village was spectacular, winding through mangrove waterways and taking in the jungle all around. We were expecting an experience like the Embera Village we had visited in 2018, but what we found was heartbreaking. The village was impoverished and rundown, with most of the homes and inhabitants living in conditions like any other slum in the country. We were able to purchase some hand-crafted jewelry and paid for a tour of the village. The tour guide showed us around and told us a little about the background of the tribe. We later learned that many of the boat captains and kitchen staff at the place we stayed were from the tribe. We tried to make sure that we tipped them well when we left on Saturday morning. 

Lyn and Jen buying the handmade bracelets

 

A home on the tribal land
A home on the tribal land
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
That is a termite nest. They live above ground here.

On Thursday we arranged to visit the organic cacao farm. The farmer had come to the island over 20 years ago to surf. He ended up buying 10 acres and a small stretch of waterfront called Wizard Beach on the surf side of the island. The piece of land is on the top of the highest hill on the island and when he bought it it was nearly bare. Over the years he has reforested and farmed the land which supplies most of the necessary food for his family and some amazing cacao. He also grows coffee and spices which his wife uses to operate a small coffee café on the site. A small shop offers spices and chocolate along with herbal soaps, shampoos, and lotions to mention just a few. We were transported by boat to the village of Old Bank and told to follow the path and the signs that said Up In The Hill. The locals knew where we were heading and were more than happy to point the way. Once we started walking it only took a few minutes to reach the end of the sidewalk. Once the sidewalk ended the hike was along a trail for about 15 minutes on a good day. Remember, it has been raining a lot. That trail was a slippery, muddy mess and we were not prepared for it. Two of us slipped and fell in the mud on the journey, but nobody let it dampen the spirit of this amazing tour. The farmer showed us how he was producing all this amazing food and spices alongside the cacao. He also showed us how he planted bamboo and trees to protect areas of the farm creating an amazing ecosystem which supports life and animals in the jungle. At the conclusion of the tour, we were invited to sit down and enjoy many of the fruits and vegetables produced on the farm. He called it a snack, but it was a meal to us. His wife did an incredible job in the preparation. If it seems that I overused the word amazing in this paragraph, I will beg to differ with you. Every time the farmer showed us something on his little farm the passion would ooze from him as he said, “it is amazing”. If you ever get to Bastimentos, follow the signs from Old Bank to Up In The Hill. The host is amazing, and the tour is unbelievable. 

This sign welcomed us to Old Bank
Only 15 minutes.
Only 8 minutes
The mud was treacherous.
A part of our path
Almost there
We finally made it. Tour begins shortly.
Endangered Red Frog (very poisonous)
Bamboo
Mini bananas
Cacao
Amazing Farmer shows how he starts new coconut trees.
Beautiful Jungle foliage
Everything is useful
We could not get over the beauty.
The spread at the end of the tour.
The spread at the end of the tour.
Many of the items available that are made from things grown on the farm.

We were fortunate to make it back before it started raining again. Along the way we were also fortunate to see a dolphin, although it was impossible to get a great picture. We got in a swim and cleaned up for dinner. Our shoes were all ruined but it did not really matter. The four of us managed to get in a game of cards before dinner. There was discussion about what we would do on our last day, but no decision could be made before we saw the weather on Friday morning. We turned in early with hopes of spending the day snorkeling with the dolphins at Coral Cay. 

A dolphin on the boat ride back.

Our hopes were dashed by the wind and overnight rain. On Friday morning snorkeling was hardly advised. The boat left for the dock to pick up more guests, so we relaxed and played dominoes until it returned. By that time, it looked like it may be safe to have the captain take us on a boat tour. Right after lunch we left in the boat and he gave us a great tour of the marinas and the waterfront of Bocas Town.  The entire time we were out it only rained in sprinkles, until we got about 10 minutes from the dock. It was then that we had a torrential downpour. The rain did stop by dinner. One of the highlights during dinner here was an evening visit by a monkey family. The alpha male would come into the dining to announce their arrival and then go to a little platform where mama and baby were waiting for a couple of bananas. We were able to give them bananas and take pictures. This was the first time since coming to Panama that Jen and I had an opportunity to see monkeys. With the rain having stopped, the jungle sounds were so different during the night.  Jen and I had a hard time sleeping while listening to the profound sounds in the jungle all around us. 

The monkeys.
Awesome Marinas
Awesome Marinas
Awesome Marinas
Waterfront Bocas
Waterfront Bocas
Waterfront Bocas
Waterfront Bocas
Cosmic Crab Resort

When we woke up early Saturday morning the sky was clearing, and I managed to get several pictures of an amazing sunrise. The pictures were taken from the deck of our cabana which hung out over the Caribbean. We were told that the magnificent sunrise could be better witnessed with a short walk through the jungle to the east point of the island. I opted to forgo that journey in favor of the safety of our deck. Once the sun was up, we packed in preparation for our departure. 

Sunrise on Saturday
Sunrise on Saturday
Sunrise on Saturday

We carried our bags to the dining area and had breakfast. Our host arranged for an early departure back to Bocas so that we could walk around town and see some of the sites. The 45-minute boat ride back was rough and the wind on the ocean was a bit chilly. Once we arrived at the dock, we could store our bags while we walked around the streets of the busy little port. Bocas Town is on the Isla Colon, and is the hub of activity for the nearby islands. We witnessed a ferry unloading fuel trucks and groceries before walking down the streets just coming alive on this early Saturday morning. After our walk about town, we returned to the dock to wait for our taxi to the airport.

La Buga Bocas. Do these people look familiar?
Hmm…Homemade popsicles.
Probably ’bout right
Central Park Bocas Town
Bocas Brewery…too bad it’s closed.

We made some amazing new friends on our trip. There was a family from Spain, a young couple from Poland, a couple of doctors from the Dallas area, students from Muskegon, MI, and the family from Virginia with whom we shared our Cacao farm tour. People go to the islands here to surf, snorkel and explore, as well as investigate retiring destinations. 

On the flight home I got some great pictures of the Caribbean islands and shoreline. The Caribbean shore here is almost all jungle and undeveloped. Other than the north end of the Canal zone and the Islands of Bocas, the only beach communities in Panama are on the Pacific where we live. 

It is good to be home and planning another adventure. If you are enjoying my blog, please, subscribe and share it with friends. Subscribing to the blog will get a notice when I publish future posts and my weekly newsletter in your e-mail. I do not share subscriber information and vow never to spam you. Also feel free to visit our Facebook page.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

Merry Christmas From Panama

As we prepare to celebrate the birth of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, we are reminded constantly of how fortunate we are to have a wonderful life here in Panama. It is hard for us to believe that it has been nearly 18 months since we officially made our move here. Looking back over the past year we realize how wonderfully blessed we are to experience life in this beautiful country. We have no regrets and are truly living life to the fullest. Our friends Ray and Diane left last week after spending a little more than a week vacationing with us here. They took our Christmas cards back to the States and mailed them for us. If you are on our Christmas card list you may notice similarities in this post to our Christmas letter. As I sat down to make a final post for 2019, it occurred to me that a perfect recap of our year was right there in our annual letter. Those who read our blog regularly may find some of this year end review to be a repeat of some of our previous posts.

Our biggest news of this past year is that we bought and moved into our own place. We made our offer and it was accepted just prior to the end of last year. Things move quickly here and we were able to close the sale and do a minor remodel prior to moving in at the end of January. It is a 1700 square foot condo in the Coronado Golf Community inside the gates of Coronado. Our building, El Alcazar, is one of the most beautiful and well maintained condo buildings in the beaches area. We are on the 11th floor with beautiful views of ocean, mountains and golf course out every window. Every morning we wake to amazing views and praise God for another perfect day in paradise.

Our first guests to visit in our new home were two of Jen’s cousins Robert Buck and Bill Gilmore. they flew in from Pittsburgh to spend a week in April. While they were here we went zip-lining, took a Rum Distillery tour, Visited The Mira Flores Locks and Bio-Diversity Museum, ate a ton of great food, and relaxed on the beaches. We even stopped along the highway where we bought and ate ceviche’. When one lives on the beach, getting fresh seafood is marvelous and convenient. Buying ceviche along the road was a little unnerving for me, but it was very fresh and very delicious.

While our good friends, Ray and Diane, were here at the beginning of the month, we spent the entire time they were here exploring places that they wanted to see. We took a two day trip to a wonderful bed and breakfast on the island of Contadora. Contadora is in the Pearl Island chain which is where there have been several episodes of Survivor filmed. Not only did the Survivor reality show from the United States film on an island nearby, but other Survivor shows from other countries filmed nearby. One even used the island where we stayed to film portions of the tribal counsel. The bed and breakfast where we stayed was home to crew for some of these filming’s. We spent hours enjoying the beaches on this awesome island and the food in the restaurants was unbelievable. After hanging out on Contadora, we took the Rum Distillery tour. and spent a day exploring in Panama City. We also spent a little time on the beach and went deep sea fishing with Lyn and Ty Gilbert. Ray and I even got a little dune buggy time while Jen and Diane went to the beauty salon.

One thing that we love about Panama is how easy it is to explore from here. While we have been settling in to our new lifestyle, most of our exploration has been local. We did however, take two trips to the States this past year, one trip to Costa Rica, and one trip to Jamaica. We went to Key West in February for the marriage of Jens older Brother Bill Jewell to Deb Wilson. In May we travelled to Michigan for our daughter Hope’s graduation with her Masters in Education. The trip also provided a perfect opportunity to see other family and friends. The Jamaica trip has been an annual tradition with good friends and we were able to continue the tradition. In 2020 we plan to travel at least one time to the States. We also will be exploring Israel, Greece, and Turkey in March, as well as Machu Picchu in Peru in May. We plan to continue our annual tradition of vacationing with our friends in Punta Cana Dominican Republic in April. The first few months of the year we will be pretty jet lagged, however when we are home we always look forward to welcoming guests and meeting our readers when they make it to our area. One thing you will not expect is to see us visiting any place where we can not wear shorts and flip flops. We do not have clothes for cold weather exploring.

It is always a thrill for us to connect with readers. Please, leave us a message or send an e-mail with questions and comments. We had a couple who started as readers of our blog and have since become friends, over for dinner this past week. We have frequent inquiries and we always try to provide a quick concise response. The highlighted portions of the previous paragraphs are links to past posts. Clicking on the links will lead you to those posts. We hope you are enjoying our blog as much as we enjoy sharing it.

Feliz Navidad,

Greg and Jen

Our Adventure to Costa Rica

We cannot detail our adventure without a brief prologue…Our adventure was to begin on August 19th. We did everything right and had perfect instructions for our journey. Step 1 was to go to the Banco National and pay the exit tax. Due to past corruption in the government here, these taxes are paid directly to the government bank account and you take the receipt to Adunas (Customs). There they process paperwork to allow you to drive your personal vehicle across the border. We paid the .50 cent exit tax a couple of days before and made multiple copies of every document that would be required. We left early and drove just over 6 hours to David where we would go to Aduanas for the document needed to cross into Costa Rica. We waited for an agent to come back from lunch and were told that due to a computer problem we would have to come back in 5 days. With no other option we turned around and went back home. Investigation told us that the only other Adunas office is in Panama City so we made the decision to go there to get the document before driving back to the border. This would delay our trip to the first of September due to other things on our schedule.

Aduanas (Panama Customs)
Aduanas (Panama Customs)

We are often asked what we do to stay busy during retirement. To be honest, we never have trouble staying busy. We are active in our church, do some volunteer work, relax at the pool, read, and spend time with friends. One of our volunteer opportunities is with the local health and respite (hospice), and they do a lot of other stuff, including sponsoring blood drives. Our misfortune at the border allowed us to donate blood on Tuesday. Panamanian people are afraid to donate blood so the donors are very much appreciated here. We both donated and were in agreement that it was one of the most pleasant donation experiences either of us has ever had.

On Wednesday we took the bus into the city to straighten out our problem with Adunas. They collected all our documents (copies) and told us to come back on Friday. We have limited communication skills, but we were being told that the new computer system did not migrate all the vehicles registered and ours was not in the system. Everything would be fixed by Friday. On Friday we returned to find that the problem remained. We friended a man in line with a similar problem. Fortunately he was fluent in Spanish and English, and he helped us to get through the process. They had to do a hand search for our vehicle record to authorize us to take it across the border. They asked us to return in two hours.  It was a monumental accomplishment when we  returned to find they were going to issue the document.

The document to allow our car to leave Panama.
The document to allow our car to leave Panama for 90 days.

On September 1st we took off on our Costa Rica adventure again. We were able to pass through the border, but I must say that it is much harder to travel from country to country here than it is to cross into the United States. Here they want to make sure you will not be staying for more than a visit. It is the legal process. We do not recommend travel like this without good instruction. We had good instruction including multiple copies of numerous documents, and a specific order to do each task. We do not know which was worse, going to Costa Rica or returning to Panama. Both border crossings were stressful, but not impossible. We both agree that it was worth the trouble, and will likely return for another visit in the future.

One of the reasons we selected Panama as our retirement home is they use U.S. currency. One thing we recommend when traveling is to get some foreign currency in advance. This was our first mistake. While at the border we were required to purchase Costa Rican car insurance. Using U.S. dollars, we think, caused us to pay a premium for this insurance. On our travel day (Sunday) no banks were open for the exchange of money. We usually pay for most things with a no foreign transaction fee bankcard, and that worked well for us until we were able to obtain Colonies (Costa Rican dollars). With Colonies in hand we were able to enjoy the roadside diners (Soda) we love, as well as make small purchases. At the end of our adventure we returned with just over $100 USD worth of Colonies.

The other thing we returned with is Momanes. Momanes are a Central American fruit that we are calling “hairy balls” because they have an appearance like, well you know. They really are yummy. When you peal away the skin they look and taste like a big white grape. They have a pit in the center, which you do not eat.

Our first stop in Costa Rica was a wonderful port town called Quepos. We did not want to drive after dark and this was a perfect place to spend the night. We had a great meal and outstanding service at an oceanfront hotel. While we had dinner we enjoyed a spectacular sunset. Our plan for morning was to wait until the bank opened, to exchange cash. This allowed us to wander about on the boardwalk and enjoy a great breakfast. When the bank opened at 9 a.m. we discovered a long line because of 1st of the month payday. Rather than endure the line we elected to continue on our adventure with no Colonies. This was not a problem. We stopped at a wonderful restaurant along the road that accepted our card, and paid a toll with a US Dollar (it was about .35 cents).

We were once again on the road to Surfside. Our good friends own a home there and we will stay with them for a few days to explore the Gold Coast beaches. The journey was another 6 hours on roads that appeared to be carved right out of the jungle rain forest. We spent most of the ride in awe of the beauty of the country. Much of the ride was along the Pacific Coast with small beachfront towns along the way. The roads, even the Pan-American Highway, were primarily two lane and paved. They were also mostly in good repair. We were able to use the Wayz app on our phones, and it worked flawlessly. Forgive us for not taking pictures along the journey. We found that often there were limited space to pull off the road for photo opportunities. The pictures below are from a stop along the coast at a small town called Jaco.

We arrived mid afternoon at our friends, John and Barbie’s home. Their home is located in a beachfront community near the town of Potrero. We noticed that there are many expats living and vacationing in these areas. The locals are much better at speaking English than in most of Panama. But, like anywhere in Central America a little Spanish goes a long way. The restaurants, bars, and breakfast sodas were numerous and most seemed to be doing well even in the slow season.  Over the next few days we enjoyed exploring the area. John and Barbie took us to an upscale condo project called Las Catalinas, which was like walking into a movie set in Italy. It was very beautiful and quiet. We took about 100 pictures but will only share a few. These homes here were in the million USD range.

Las Catalina looks just like an Italian village
Las Catalina looks just like an Italian village

We also explored numerous beaches. Playa Penca was incredibly beautiful and deserted. There was a road adjacent to the beach and we followed it to the end. I promised an end of the road story and this is it. It was somewhat anti-climatic but it was, no doubt, another in what we hope will be  a long lasting theme to our end of the road stories.

Playa Penca
Playa Penca

John and Barbie took us to several great beaches. Some were literally deserted, while others had a lot of people around. The beach at Witches Rock in Tamarindo was a surfers paradise. There were surfers around waiting for high tide, when they would take a lesson or hit the surf. We enjoyed a great lunch on the beach and browsed through some of the great shops.

After visiting Tamarindo we went to an amazing pool at Mar Vista for an afternoon of relaxing and swimming. This infinity pool is separated from the ocean by jungle and rain forest, but when you were swimming in it you could enjoy the awesome ocean vista.

Along the way we spotted this very colorful and handsome iguana. He was not shy and we got a great picture of him to share.

This handsome guy was so collorful
This handsome guy was so colorful

We could not get over the fabulous restaurants in the area around our friends home. The last night at their home we went to Vaca Loca. Translated Vaca Loca means crazy cow. We came to the conclusion that the proprietor was the crazy one. We were served ribeye steaks, that weighed out at over a pound, with appetizers, one side, and a shot of limoncello to finish for about $12 USD each. It was beyond delicious and perfectly cooked. The truth be known, our friend John is an expert at finding great restaurants that will not break the budget. Most of the restaurants in Costa Rica, with the exception of the sodas, are very expensive. This reality was another strong argument for our decision to retire in Panama. We enjoy eating out and having economical restaurant selections is important to us.

The following morning we embarked on our journey to the mountain town of Tilaran.  On our journey we made a special stop at Walmart. Walmart in Costa Rica is a high end department store and we found the prices to be high compared to the States. We did pick up a few snacks and soft drinks for the road. We also got a few things that have been difficult to find in Panama.

The Ciudad of Tilaran
The Ciudad of Tilaran

From there we traveled on to Lake Arenal and the pinnacle of our trip, a visit to Lake Arenal and the Arenal Volcano. We stayed in a great casita with a full kitchen and an awesome view of Lake Arenal for $50 USD per night. Our friends John and Barbie stayed with a friend down the road a bit. The lake is about 26 miles long and we were on the west end of it. The volcano and the small town of Arenal were about an hour drive away on the east end of the lake.  Our plan was to go to the volcano, hot springs and explore on Saturday. We will head back to Panama on Sunday. The pictures below are near where we stayed. The weather was perfect when we reached our temporary home on Lake Arenal.

On Saturday morning we woke up to torrential rain. It is rainy season and we were deep in the mountains and rain forest. Determined not to let the weather affect our plans, we took off bright and early prepared for whatever mother nature dealt us. We drove to the volcano and the small town of Arenal. To make a long story short we did not get to explore because the rain did not stop. We, also opted against the hot springs as it would not be great in the rain. We shopped around the town a bit and took a few pictures before returning to our temporary home at the other end of the lake.

For the rest of the day we enjoyed meeting some of John and Barbie’s friends and a couple of other great restaurants. Our farewell dinner was at Moyas and it was another awesome experience.

Sunday morning we got up for our journey home to Panama. On the way out of the mountains we stopped for what turned out to be an awesome photo opportunity. We took a picture of the Arnal Volcano with a cloud over the top resembling a hat. The rest of our journey was more beautiful countryside and we thoroughly enjoyed the drive.

We both agree that the experience of driving through Costa Rica was memorable and we will likely make another trip to fully enjoy the mountain experience. The beaches were great, but we have great beaches right here at home.

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Blessings,

Greg and Jen