Our Year in Review 2024

Without a doubt, 2024 was our biggest adventure year of retirement. We visited over seventeen different countries and saw some amazing sights. We celebrated a monumental birthday with my mom in Florida. I attended a writer’s conference in Greece with bestselling authors Jonas Saul and CC Humphries. We cruised on three ships to visit the Greek Isles, almost the entire perimeter of South America, including the Strait of Magellan (Cape Horn), and revisited the Caribbean. If I don’t yet have your attention, read on. I will share some amazing adventures and slip in a few incredible pictures.

In February, my sister Melinda, her husband Hunter, Jen, and I, along with our three daughters, their spouses, and grandchildren, gathered in Fort Myers, Florida, for a surprise party to celebrate our mom’s birthday. I wanted to share a few pictures from the party. It’s not often that a surprise of this magnitude can be executed with such precision. Great job, Melinda.

In March, Jen and I flew to Santiago, Chile, for a great South American adventure. Our detailed blog post about the trip is in the blog archives. We explored Santiago and some of the Chilian interior before boarding the Norwegian Star to sail the coast of South America for 24 days. Our journey ended in Rio de Janeiro. When blogging our year in review, I never intended to repost what I’ve already posted. If you missed the South America Adventure, I hope you will click the link here or on the sidebar.

The Norwegian Star

In May, we celebrated Jen’s birthday and entry into the American Social Security system. Our good, life-long friends from Michigan came to Panama to help celebrate. The week was full of local adventure and celebration.

We enjoyed a special six-course dinner hosted by Chef Aristoteles at Nazca 21. One of our favorite entertainers, Pascal Turner, entertained us while course after course was delivered to the table.

One of the places that our visitors always ask to visit is Valle de Anton. It’s always a place where repeat visitors want to return. We explored the Sunday Market and The Museo del Valle de Anton before having brunch at the Golden Frog. The restaurant is off the beaten path, but the food is good, and our server spoke English. Our guests enjoyed the delightful patio atmosphere.

We certainly took our guests to the beach and pool while they were here. They asked for relaxation over adventure, which was fine with us.

Our visit wrapped up with a day of adventure in Panama City. We journeyed to Casco Viejo, where we toured St. Joseph Church (The Golden Altar Church), the Panama Canal Museum, the Mola Museum, and the I Love Panama Chocolate Company. We wrapped up the last day with a visit to the Panaviera at the top of the former Trump Tower (J.W. Marriott). We had a delightful meal there while the sun set on our visitors’ final day of adventure.

The five of us enjoying the sunset

A few days after our Michigan friends left, we welcomed our oldest granddaughter to Panama. Jen and I have decided to have each of the grandchildren to Panama just before their senior year of high school. The time we spent with Victoria was special for all of us. We adventured and explored every minute of the ten-day visit. If you missed the blog post about Victoria’s visit in June, I hope you will click the link here, Victoria’s Panama Adventure, or on the sidebar to check it out. We are proud of Victoria’s accomplishments. She has chosen to continue her education at the University of Alabama, Birmingham. She was accepted and offered substantial scholarships. Congratulations kiddo.

Exploring the Amador Causeway

In early September, we went whale watching with eight friends in a panga on the Gulf of Chiriqui. We all agreed that it was the best whale-watching trip we had taken. Our guide, Captain Jay, had the whales figured out perfectly. There were times when we had whales in all directions. Our hosts at El Regalo Resort booked our tour and hosted us in delightful rooms. The resort has five suites, and we occupied the entire place. Jenni and Carroll have made their place the best of the best in Boca Chica. They have a chef who never disappoints. Our breakfasts and dinners were perfectly prepared, and the bartender kept the drinks flowing while we swam in the beautiful pool. I am sharing a gallery of great pictures from our adventure below.  Adventuring in Panama never gets old, especially with good friends.

By the middle of September, we returned to the skies for the pinnacle of our 2024 travel.  We flew from Panama to Miami for an overnight layover. Then, we traveled to London, where we met some friends, Joanne and Kirk. They took us for the best fish and chips and gave us an all-star tour of London before returning us to the airport for our flight to Athens.

We left London on a late flight to Athens, Greece. We arrived in Greece, transferred to the port, and caught a ferry to the island of Amorgos. On the third day since leaving Panama, we arrived at the Lakki Village Resort by midafternoon. It was a long day of travel and time zone jumping. I don’t know if it was adrenaline or excitement, but jet lag never caught up with us. We got plenty of sleep on the transportation and layovers.

Amorgos was the site of my writing retreat with Chris (CC) Humphries and Jonas Saul. It was amazing. After we arrived and unpacked, there was time to explore the resort. Our entire writer’s group gathered for a beautiful welcome dinner. After dinner, there was time to get better acquainted poolside with the facilitators and attendees anxious to discuss writing.

At the first morning session, we introduced ourselves and discussed what we were writing and what we were looking for from the retreat. The guest authors discussed the industry and offered clarity on direction. I had face time with all of the great authors at the retreat. Jen and I had lunch with Chris Humphreys and his significant other, Kat.

Jen and I with Chris and Kat

The second-day program was The Mountain: Beginning the Novel and Finishing It! Award-winning historical, crime, and fantasy novelist Chris (CC) Humphreys revealed some of his secrets of successful writing. Chris broke the writing journey into stages and guided us through each stage using a blend of anecdotal examples. Later in the afternoon, we gathered for a writing exercise.

On the third day, we discussed the discipline of creating the novel, how much emotion should be on the page, and how to place the tension in the right spots to keep readers turning the pages. We discussed setting up the book to be psychologically pleasing to the reader, leaving them with the emotional experience readers read for. Reading is an emotional journey, so make them feel it, and they’ll love you for it and tell all their friends about you (your book). After our session, we walked together to the village for lunch at an amazing local place. We gathered for drinks and casual discussion in the late afternoon before our evening meal.

On the fourth day, we learned to write a good fight scene that entertains while advancing the plot and revealing the character. How characters fight can reveal as much about them as how they make love. A good author must chance to delve into the dark side to broaden and deepen their characters and plot. Fight and sex scenes are a huge opportunity for any writer to confirm a suspicion or to startle with a revelation. A “character in peril” keeps the pages turning.

Later in the afternoon, we toured the 11th-century monastery of Agia Anna and the white village of Chora.

On our last day of workshops, we discussed promotion outside social media. Chris Humphreys and Jonas Saul demonstrated how to get our work in front of readers through proven results. This concluded the educational portion of our week. I met with Jonas Saul and enjoyed an awesome one-on-one lunch meeting. He shared his thoughts with me on a sample from the rough draft of Mayhem in Eagle Cove, the second of the Detective Larry series. His kind words about my upcoming novel were informative and inspirational. It was clear that this workshop would be a turning point in my writing experience. Exciting things will happen over the next few months as I finish the draft and send it to the editor. By the way, Mr. Saul has agreed to edit the upcoming book.

After lunch, we gathered for a village hike. Jonas led the three-hour hike from the ancient village of Lagada to Tholaria and back to the hotel. The gallery of photos below is a few from the hike. In one village, we stopped at Jonas’s home, where he unselfishly invited us in to see where he and Rania write and live during the high season on Amorgos. We were back in time for pre-dinner drinks. I’ve talked very little about the food at the resort. We gathered as a group each night and enjoyed a family-style Greek meal. Every day of the retreat was filled with information and encouragement that drove each attendee to be their best. We all came from different countries and backgrounds and wrote different genres, but the ability to feed off the knowledge of one another was as wonderful as the learning portions of our time there.

With the retreat ended, we left the resort at 4:45 a.m. for a ferry departure at 5:45. The ferry took us to Athens, where our driver picked us up and took us to our hotel, Attalos. After unpacking and settling into the hotel, we toured the Acropolis Museum.

Sunday at 11:00 a.m., we saw the changing of the guards at Syntagma Square. This is considered the best time to see this happen, and we had a great spot to view it.

Later in the evening, we toured Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon at sunset and got some great pictures.

We arranged to explore the ruins of ancient Corinth and the Corinth Canal the following day. We enjoyed a scenic drive from Athens to Corinth along the shores of the Saronic Gulf. The journey took us past beautiful beaches and the spectacularly narrow Corinth Canal, built to link the Saronic and Corinth Gulfs during the 1890s. Like the Panama Canal, it required several attempts before finally being completed. First proposed in the third century B.C. it wasn’t completed until 1893. In stark contrast, it is sea-level with no locks, narrow, and one single channel. It is 4 miles long and eighty feet wide making it impassable by most modern ships.

The Corinth Canal

We strolled around the relics of Corinth, once an influential ancient Greek and Roman city, and then visited the seaside town of Kehreai.

Upon returning to Athens, we spent time exploring Monastiraki Square. The square was less than a six-minute walk from our hotel, and we found great Greek restaurants, shops, and a market. We found a place to change some money to Euros and bought a charge block for our phones. Taking pictures and roaming quickly depletes our phone batteries.

To put things in perspective, we arrived in Athens ahead of our travel buddies Daniel and Laura. They had been in the country for a few days and preferred exploring the countryside in a rental car. We finally caught up with them two days before the departure of our Greek cruise. Together, we visited the sites of Athens, starting with the Acropolis and Parthenon. Our hotel had a magnificent rooftop bar with amazing views, but nothing compared with fighting through the crowds to get up-close and personal.

The Acropolis

From there, we used the hop-on, hop-off bus, a great way to travel from site to site. We visited many archaeological sites and museums. Our first stop was the Temple of Zeus and the National Gardens. We then went to the National Archeological Museum. Time was getting the best of us, and we wanted to see more ruins, so we continued to the Ancient Agora (market), Hadrian’s Library, and the Temple of Hephaistos. We wrapped up our day with dinner at an amazing seafood restaurant, then a photo opportunity at the rooftop bar of our hotel.

We had breakfast together on our last day in Athens before parting ways. Daniel and Laura adventured in the morning while Jen and I packed and went for early boarding on the Norwegian Pearl. We reconnected later on the ship. They shared some great pictures from the morning.

When traveling with friends, everyone chooses what they want to see and do. We took numerous tours while Daniel and Laura took other excursions. We seldom went on the same adventures. Jen and I continued to explore archeological sites throughout Greece and beyond. The Norwegian Pearl moved us seamlessly from port to port.

The Norwegian Pearl

Our first port was Santorini. It is said that Santorini has more churches than houses, donkeys than people, and wine than water.

We visited Akrotiri, one of the 10 top Archaeological sites in the world, and learned about the prehistoric city, also known as the Pompei of the Aegean. The Theran eruption of approximately 1627 B.C. destroyed this unique Minoan settlement, and Spyridon Marinatos started the extensive excavation in 1967.

The nearly thirty-five centuries-old city still preserves many remains of its fine frescoes, everyday objects, and artwork because the volcanic ash protected them from the elements. At the time of the eruption, the city had reached great development and prosperity, with an elaborate drainage system and sophisticated multistoried buildings. Among other things, Akrotiri has been suggested to be the inspiration for Plato’s story of Atlantis.

The unique archeological site is completely under cover to protect it from the elements as the archeologists work to uncover its well-preserved treasures.

Following our visit to Akrotiri, we stopped at an impressive winery to taste Santorini’s famous wines, enjoy the magnificent view, and relax in its peaceful environment. Jen and I felt that the views were much better than the wine. Others in our group loved the wine. My take on it is that you shouldn’t go to Greece for the wine.

Our final destination was Fira, the cosmopolitan capital and one of Greece’s most famous and picturesque places. We had time to admire the white houses built on the crater’s slopes and explore the narrow paths before taking the cable car and the tender back to the ship.

On the second day, the ship docked in Mykonos. We took a great 3-D tour of Delos. To reach the ruins, we boarded a smaller boat and cruised to the nearby sacred island of Delos. We viewed a wealth of ruins using an electronic tablet with augmented-reality software that showed the structures as they appeared in ancient times.

According to Greek mythology, Apollo and his twin sister Artemis were born in Delos and first settled in the third millennium B.C. Archaeological discoveries excavated here have been deemed so indicative of an ancient cosmopolitan port that the island is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

All of the structures on Delos are excavated ruins, except for the museum and a few buildings for personnel. The landscape remains largely unaltered since ancient times because a town was never built over the original port, a rarity few other archaeological sites share.

As we meandered through the rather barren island, we saw ruins that included temples, statues, mosaic floors, and roads, such as the Sacred Way, which leads to the Sanctuary of Apollo. Another highlight is the Terrace of Lions, named for the Naxian marble lions that guard it. The originals are in the island’s museum to protect them from the elements.

The electronic tablet with 3D augmented reality software enhanced our understanding and enjoyment of the ruins. We pointed the tablet’s camera at a ruin and could view the structure as it originally stood centuries ago.

It is believed that the population of this port was poisoned by pirates, leaving the site untouched for thousands of years before being discovered.

The cruise was port heavy. We stopped at a different site nearly every day. On the third day, we tendered ashore in Zakynthos for a captivating tour, introducing us to Zakynthos Town, the island’s oldest monastery and a traditional island village. We began with a guided tour of Zakynthos Town, sometimes called the Venice of the South. We saw the expansive square named after Dionysios Solomos, the revered poet who wrote Greece’s national anthem, and continued past splendid landmarks. The Byzantine Museum and the Church of Saint Nicholas were amazing.

We then went to the village of Bochali, located below a Venetian fortress, and appreciated sweeping views of Zakynthos Town and the sparkling Ionian Sea. At the 14th-century Monastery of Anafonitria, we learned that Saint Dionysios, Zakynthos’ patron saint, served as the monastery’s abbot for most of his life. We viewed colorful 15th-century frescoes uncovered during the monastery’s painstaking renovation.

In the traditional mountain village of Volimes, we were taken to a modern olive press. The tour explained how olives are prepared and crushed for olive oil. The press has been family-owned for over 100 years, and past equipment was displayed, showing the business’s innovation over the years. The tour ended with a stroll along the city’s main shopping area.

On the fourth day, the ship docked in Corfu, where we indulged in a 4×4 excursion. We enjoyed the fun and adventure of Corfu’s countryside while traveling over stony trails through the olive groves. We caught glimpses of the sparkling Ionian Sea and beautiful green hills and saw many locals’ traditional way of life. Our guide led us up the main coastal road to the island’s northeast. We then took small country roads to quaint villages, stopping at the most charming and oldest on the island to take in the views.

We went uphill on a narrow, winding road that zigzagged to Sokraki, where we stopped to admire one of the most fantastic panoramic views. Continuing on a dusty road, we arrived at Troumbetta. We passed through other picturesque sites before stopping at Bella Vista to enjoy more spectacular views while enjoying refreshments and Greek snacks. We found it difficult to decide which village was the most appealing.

We also visited a traditional Koum Kouat distillery. The Koum Kouat citrus fruit, which only grows in Corfu, is made into one of the island’s most famous products: a liqueur with the same name and fruit-preserved sweets. We viewed a small exhibition of antique distillery equipment, sampled the produce, and purchased a bottle of the local liquor.

Jen and I toured Lapad Bay & Old Town on our next cruise stop. We enjoyed the panoramic views of Dubrovnik while riding through the hilly Lapad Peninsula. At a bay on the peninsula’s western shore, we stopped for a short walk to the Sunset Beach Club. It was an ideal setting to linger over a drink and enjoy the sweeping views of the sparsely populated Elaphiti islands. Afterward, we visited Dubrovnik’s medieval Old Town, which UNESCO deemed a World Heritage site for its extraordinary architecture. As we walked along the main street, the Stradun, we saw Saint Savior Church, the polygonal Fountain of Onofrio, and the Old Pharmacy, founded in 1317. The defensive stone walls surrounding Old Town were built in the 13th century.

  • The next day, we tendered ashore in Kotor, Montenegro, for a highlights & cable car adventure. We viewed Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm from several characteristic locales, ending with a cable car ride from the summit of Kuk Hill. During the descent, we gazed out over Kotor, its namesake bay, and the surrounding mountains. The terrain was so striking that when playwright George Bernard Shaw visited, he famously quipped from nearby Mount Lovćen, “Am I in paradise or Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm on the moon?” The vistas were just as memorable as we traveled through Lovćen National Park to Cetinje, once the royal capital of Montenegro. Founded in the 15th century, it was a lovely setting for our lunch as it lies in a green bowl at the foot of Mount Lovćen. Our next stop was in Budva, a medieval port that inspired the English poet Lord Bryon. He described it as “the most beautiful meeting of land and sea” and we discovered it still is.

The ship docked the following day at Split, where we toured Split Old Town and Trogir Medieval City, taking advantage of a rare opportunity to visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the same day. We discovered the treasures of Trogir and saw how the Romans influenced the old city of Split. The medieval city of Trogir boasted architectural treasures of beautiful stone houses, palaces, churches, monasteries, towers, and walls. The entire town was like an open-air museum, so strolling through its narrow streets was an unforgettable experience.

We visited the main attraction in Trogir, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, probably the finest example of sacred architecture in Croatia. The unusual construction with three naves and three apses dominates the entire town. The main portal carved by local artist Radovan in the 13th century is world famous. We also saw the Town Loggi, Town Hall, and Cipiko Palace. Afterward, we had some free time to explore on our own.

The old town of Split is built on and around the massive palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian. It represents the most important example of Roman architecture on the Adriatic. Our tour started in the cellars, which are very well preserved. We saw the Cathedral of St. Duje, considered one of the world’s oldest Catholic cathedrals that retains its original structure. We also saw the Golden Gate, the Silver Gate, and the Peristyle Square.

Our Greek Island-hopping cruise reached its final port at Ravenna, Italy. We did not go ashore due to a tropical bora. The bora is a northerly to northeasterly katabatic wind in areas near the Adriatic Sea. Similar nomenclature is used for north-eastern winds in other coastal areas of the eastern Mediterranean and Black Sea basins. I copied and pasted this description from Wikipedia.

A Bora

We disembarked the Pearl several hours later than expected after bidding a fond farewell to the crew, who showed us a magnificent cruise. The bora had left our ship floating in the Mediterranean, awaiting disembarkation. We took a shuttle from the port of Trieste to our hotel near the airport in Venice. Time, logistics, and late arrival gave us little time in Venice. We missed our adventure there but took the evening to enjoy a great Italian meal and relax in our 17th-century hotel. The hotel has been in the same family for centuries and President Reagan was a guest there (see the photo below). Venice was deluged with rain and wind.

Our return to Panama barely allowed us to do the laundry before leaving for Washington D.C., Bethesda, and Annapolis, Maryland. Jen and I flew to Baltimore, Maryland, a few days before Jen’s younger brother’s wedding. We spent two days in Washington, D.C. I had never been there, and it was an excellent opportunity to see our nation’s capital.

The photos below are randomly ordered and don’t do our visit justice. During the two days there, we visited The White House, the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial, The Vietnam War Memorial, The FBI, The Supreme Court, The Library of Congress, The US Capitol, and more. We walked what seemed to be a thousand miles. Our Congressman, Greg Steube, arranged for a private tour of the Capitol with one of his aids. That was a highlight of our visit. I particularly enjoyed the Library of Congress, while Jen enjoyed The Supreme Court. Background checks were required for The White House and FBI tours, making prior planning a must. Jen had the whole thing arranged and scheduled in advance.

It was a beautiful Saturday at the Naval Academy in Annapolis for Jon and Karine’s wedding. The ceremony was beautiful, and we were pleased to welcome Karine into the family and pray for special blessings for their happiness. The pictures below are some I captured walking into the chapel, where no pictures were allowed, and one of Jon, Karine, and Jon’s boys in the superintendent’s garden. The other is Jon and Karine cutting the cake.

Cutting the Wedding Cake

After the wedding, Jen returned to Panama while I flew to Florida.  As many of you know, Dad’s wife, Renee, passed away just before our trip to Greece. I could spend ten days with him before I returned to Panama. My time in Florida was eye-opening. The first picture below is from three years ago. It’s from Gilcrest Park last Monday. I returned to the same location to take pictures while I was there. The devastation in the park was awful. Hurricane Helene created a storm surge, depositing two boats in the park. After Hurricane Milton, I counted almost sixteen boats in the park, pickleball courts, and across the street. The takeaway here is the power of the storm surge. My family and I had no significant damage from the storm, but as I visited with my dad for more than a week, the devastation was heartbreaking. There were hundreds of homes with all their furniture out by the street. Dumpsters in driveways collected drywall and carpets from flooded homes.

We returned to Florida late in November for Renee’s memorial. The Celebration of Life was the beautiful tribute she certainly deserved.
While in Florida, I was invited to speak at her book club. Several group members approached me at her Celebration of Life and asked that I join them for their regular monthly meeting. Many showed up with copies of Murder in Eagle Cove and asked that I sign them. Members of the group bought every copy I had with me. They added it to their current reading list, and we discussed where the series will go from the end of the first book. They are superfans, and I loved every minute of it. They are as anxious for the second in the series as I am. I’m working to have a mini launch and book signing in Punta Gorda, Florida, in May, along with a book signing tour from Florida to Boston, where the series takes place.
The Punta Gorda Book Club

We got our condo in Port Charlotte ready for our snowbird tenants before departing. Our plans for the last big adventure of the year were tweaked just a little for Renee’s memorial.

We drove to Miami, returned our rental car, and overnighted before boarding the Norwegian Joy.

Norwegian Joy

Our first port was in Cozumel, Mexico. Admittedly, this is someplace we’d been before, but how can you not love the adventuring experience there? We enjoyed a unique excursion, Cozumel by Land & Sea. It combined an insider’s view of local chocolate and tequila production as a postlude for exploring the wonders underwater in a semi-submersible. At the Mayan Cacao Company, we saw how chocolate is made from cacao. This process dates back to the ancient Mayans, who drank chocolate for ceremonial and medicinal purposes as far back as 500 BC. After sampling some creamy (and exceptionally yummy) chocolate, we proceeded to a tequila-tasting seminar for a tasting that presented the historical and cultural importance of tequila on the Yucatan peninsula.

A different perspective of Cozumel awaited us just offshore on Paradise Reef, where we explored the underwater world in a semi-submersible way. Although the vessel’s viewing windows were only a few feet below the water’s surface, the sights were extraordinary. We saw a riot of brilliantly colored fish and coral reefs.

Our second port was in Harvest Caye, Belize. This was another of the places we have yet to have the opportunity to explore. It was on the list of possible retirement destinations before choosing Panama. Our ship was the only one in port, making it an easy, laid-back stop. Jen and I enjoyed Rainforest River Tubing. There was a genuine feel for rural life while we drove through the densely forested countryside to Maya World Outpost, the starting point for our adventure. After a short briefing to help maximize the tubing experience, we eased into the refreshing but cold river, and the current carried us downstream. Floating down the slow-moving river on an inner tube, we took in the spectacular rainforest scenery while listening to the ambient sounds of the jungle. Mountain springs feed the river, so the water is crystal-clear. Along the way, we passed through a picturesque mountain gorge over a series of small rapids and under overhanging trees, keeping us primarily in the shade. The ever-changing scenery added to the excitement and made the trip memorable. We heard and saw squawking tropical birds abundant in the protected rainforest.

A Mayan Statue at the entrance of Maya World Outpost.

Next, we made port in Costa Maya, Mexico. We didn’t plan any excursions there as we’d visited before. We decided instead to remain aboard the ship and enjoy the incredible offerings. We opted to add the adults-only area, Vibe Club, to our package on this cruise. We loved the special adult-only atmosphere and enjoyed the hot tub and high-end bar. Taking a cruise is only sometimes about the amazing ports and adventures. We could kick back and relax while someone else did the cooking, laundry, and housekeeping. The bars and restaurants aboard the Norwegian ship did an excellent job keeping us fed and hydrated. Thanksgiving dinner was prime rib, soup, vegetables, and pumpkin cheesecake. We could have selected turkey and all the fixings, but why when the prime rib is on the menu? Another great benefit of a cruise vacation is the awesome shows…we had the Beetles on board. There were also comics and multiple talented entertainers rounding out the long list of entertainment.

Our delightful cruise continued to Roatan, Honduras, where we made port on Thursday. Roatan was another consideration for our retirement strategy. We have friends in Panama who nearly opted for this beautiful island offshore from Honduras. We could see why. It’s full of English-speaking expats, and the near-perfect tropical Caribbean climate was amazing.

Jen is hooked on ATV adventures. She booked us on an amazing adventure through the rainforest and mangroves. The adventure began in the village of Politilly Bight, where we hopped on ATVs and raced off caravan-style, following the guide into the surrounding wilderness. We saw the natural beauty that abounds in the island’s more remote regions, riding the ATV through a tropical rainforest. The recent rain and natural trails with potholes had mud flying, making driving all the more fun and our shoes and clothes dirty. After a brief stop at a traditional Garifuna village, we were transferred to Oak Ridge, the island’s oldest fishing community. From there, we cruised along the mangrove-lined shores of southern Roatan. Mangrove forests line the banks almost everywhere and often create tunnels in the tree canopy that our boat easily navigated through. Besides being environmentally beneficial, mangroves shelter many animals, especially water birds such as green herons and roseate spoonbills.

We concluded the cruise in Miami. With another great adventure in the rearview mirror, we departed the Port of Miami by coach with a knowledgeable guide for a one-hour drive to Everglades National Park. This world-renowned eco-system covers about 5,000 square miles and is home to most of Florida’s alligators, snakes, black bears, wild pigs, over two hundred species of birds, including herons, egrets, white ibis, anhingas, roseate spoonbills, wood storks, ospreys, hawks, vultures, eagles and more, plus the endangered and nocturnal Florida Panther – less than 100 remaining in the wild.

We boarded our airboat for a thirty-minute exhilarating ride over the “River of Grass,” where we encountered several different creatures. After the airboat ride, we enjoyed an alligator show and various crocodilian exhibits. We then had time to visit the souvenir shop. On the drive back to the city, our guide gave us great insight into the two Florida tribes of Native American Indians.

Our Miami adventure continued with a sightseeing and millionaire boat tour. We started at South Beach in the Art Deco History District. After South Beach, we explored the Wynwood Art District before moving on to Little Havana. The guide had our driver take us through Coconut Grove, Miami’s oldest and most prestigious neighborhood. At the Bayside Marketplace, we had lunch before boarding the Millionaire’s Cruise. The guide pointed out celebrity homes and offered fun facts. It went by so fast that all the homes photographed were not identified.

Our day ended at Superblue Miami, where Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s interactive artwork was presented in an amazing new sound and light installation by Studio Lemercier. Each room of the Superblue exhibit was a different experience. One room was full of bubbles falling from the ceiling, one had mirrors and lights, and another was a laser light experience.

After two full days of exploring Miami, we caught a flight with 18 other adventure seekers to Cuba. I stated earlier that the pinnacle of our adventures in 2024 was my Writer’s retreat in Greece. If you haven’t yet read our blog post from Cuba, it’s worth your time. I was blown away by the history, culture, and people there. You can use the link above or on the sidebar to access it.

I couldn’t conclude this post without talking about a few other significant things. I was invited to speak at several events and participated in some podcasts. My interview with Retire There is due to be published shortly.

Watch my newsletter for information about that as it becomes available. I had a great interview with Melissa Darnay from Choose Panama about our retirement, my writing, and life in Panama. That interview was posted to her website and nationwide on every platform where people enjoy great podcasts. My interview with Melissa is available here.

I talked earlier about Renee Johnson’s death. We also lost one of our dearest friends here in Panama, Barbara Munn. Barb and Renee were both instrumental in the writing of my first novel and advised me on the second before they passed. Jen and I are sad at the loss of these beautiful women. May they both rest in eternal peace.

We’re home in Panama, and it’s just a few days until Christmas. We anxiously await the miracle of the newborn Christ Jesus. We will be celebrating with our church family and fellowshipping on Christmas Eve. On Christmas day, we will be having a small dinner party with a few of our most special friends. Panama has provided Jen and me with special friendships that will last a lifetime.

The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events. Of course, if you’re not subscribed to receive this blog in your inbox, check the sidebar for the link to subscribe. I never share my subscriber list, and I never send spam. Your privacy is highly respected.

Have a blessed New Year,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Incredible Adventures Boca Chica and Boquete

There are no words to describe how amazing our recent adventures were. We have experienced whale watching on one other occasion without disappointment, but it was nothing compared to our recent trip to the Gulf of Chiriquí in Boca Chica.

We traveled with two other couples to Boca Chica, where we checked into our favorite resort, Regalo. Jen and I stayed at Regalo Resort on one other occasion, and we found it just as beautiful and charming as we remembered. The resort is wonderfully remote while convenient to the public pier at Boca Chica.  The proprietors, Carol and Jenni, have recently put in a pickleball court and converted the helipad into a bahio, where they host yoga retreats. They tell us that the resort is booked at capacity for most of the year, and they’re planning a minor expansion.

Regalo Resort

They employ a full-time chef, a bartender, and maid staff to serve the guests. The entire staff met us upon our arrival. They collected our bags and whisked them away to our suites while we checked in and were treated to a welcome cocktail at the bar. Dinner is typically offered in two choices, with other options for those with special diets or needs. We were given our options for dinner and asked what time we wanted to eat.

A table was set up on the pool deck for our party of six and another for the other guests in the resort. The other guests were a family of four from Florida who had spent the day deep sea fishing. They told us of the magnificent time they had and were asking Carol how they could transport their catch back to Florida. This seemed to me a near impossibility, but Carol was preparing their fish for the trip, packing it in a cooler with ice.

The resort can arrange any adventure from the public pier at Boca Chica. On our prior trip, we did an island-hopping boat tour with an excellent captain, Victor. Our tour started on Isla Bolanos, where we could swim and soak in the wondrous sights and sounds of the Gulf of Chiriquí. The second stop was Isla Paridas, where we enjoyed a great lunch. It was the only island with commerce. We saw just one small house serving drinks and fresh seafood, so we took the opportunity to restock our cooler and have Red Snapper served with salad, rice, and patacones. Following lunch, we swam on the beautiful beach before heading to our third island, Isla Gomez. It was a tiny, uninhabited island with a perfect beach. We did not have to share this island with anyone else. Captain Victor gave us an hour to swim and enjoy the beach before returning us to the pier at Boca Chica.

That day, we shared the boat with a Panamanian family. The couple and their well-behaved children were bi-lingual and spoke English to us. They ended up joining us for dinner at Regalo. It’s no surprise that they have become lifelong friends. It always amazes us how welcoming and friendly the Panamanian people are.

After returning to the pier, we walked around a bit in the village. There was truly little to see and do there. Boca Chica is a basic little town of fishermen and tourist boat excursions. This is a popular destination for whale watching. The whales migrate to the Gulf of Chiriquí from August to October. This is where whales give birth because of its safe, warm waters. Otherwise, everyone there had an agenda of fishing, sightseeing, or scuba diving. This was not whale season, so we saw no whales on our excursion. There were no cute little shops or restaurants, so we returned to Regalo for a relaxed evening meal with our new friends.

Our priority on this trip to Boca Chica was to see whales. From July to October, the humpback whales arrive in the Gulf of Chiriquí after their long journey from Antarctica to have their young and teach them to survive. The waters here are perfect for breeding as they must be warm and safe. This offers well-being and protection to their babies, who must be born with fat to resist the cold temperatures.

Adult males measure between 12 and 14 meters, somewhat smaller than females. An adult humpback whale can measure between 15 and 18 meters and live up to 50 years. Its weight ranges between 25 and 40 tons.

On Tuesday, we went to the pier, where we met our guide for the day, Jay. He proved to be an expert at finding whales. Although the location of the whales is sometimes tricky, Jay knew where to go and gave us the show of a lifetime.

Our day included a stop at Isla Paridas, where we had stopped on our previous adventure, to have a delightful lunch of fresh langostinos (shrimp).

Our day ended at the resort, where we swam in the beautiful infinity pool, enjoying drinks prepared and served by the bartender while the chef prepared another delightful meal.

My Filet Mignon with mashed potatoes and salad.

After extreme adventuring, we visited with our gracious hosts, and all turned in early. Carol and Jenni posed for a fan photo. We don’t often endorse or recommend places unless we would return. This is a place we will return again and again. See my September 11, 2023, issue 154 Newsletter for a link to this magnificent place.

Jenni and Carol

I would be remiss if I didn’t say here that the breakfast at Regalo is delightful and included in the price for a night. They served fruit and a breakfast selection with juice and fresh coffee from the Chiriquí highlands of Boquete both mornings. One of the couples we traveled with arranged an extra day in Boquete to tour a local coffee finca (farm).

Following our delightful breakfast on Wednesday morning, we drove to Boquete. The drive was beautiful and relatively short. If you’ve ever driven in Panama, you know the roads in parts of the country are not so great. The Inter-Americana Highway from Santiago to David is relatively new and in excellent shape.

On our initial trip to Boquete, we journeyed in one day. The entire trip is about 400km, taking approximately five hours without stops. We’ve been there three times with no shortage of adventure stories.

Boquete is a small mountain town in Panama. It’s located in the westernmost Province of Chiriquí, about 60 kilometers (37 mi) from the border with Costa Rica, and lies on the Caldera River in Panama’s green mountain highlands. Because of its elevation of 1,200 meters (3,900 ft) above sea level, its climate is cooler than the lowlands. Its scenic location, temperature, and natural environment make it popular with Panamanians and attracts tourists and retirees from all over the world.

Archaeological studies support the idea that Boquete’s history started between 300 AD to 600 BC. In this region, you can find petroglyphs (prehistoric rock carvings) that are evidence of the ancient settlements in the area. During the Spanish colonization, the highland area was an isolated refuge for the indigenous tribes like the Ngöbe and the Misquito due to the topographic terrain. The colonization of Boquete began in the second half of the nineteenth century by locals from Bugaba, Gualaca, and David and foreigners from Yugoslavia, France, Germany, and other European countries. Colonizers also arrived from the United States, starting the first coffee plantations and agricultural farms. In Spanish, the word Boquete means ‘gap or opening.’ It was through this gap that curious gold seekers trekked, looking for a cheaper and quicker way to the Pacific. By the early twentieth century, several villages had been populated: Lino, Quiel, Bajo Mono, Los Naranjos, and Bajo Boquete, which now is the town center of the district.

The town of Boquete has a population of around 25,000, including around 2500 expats from all over the world. It also has some of the most beautiful waterfalls, flowers, hundreds of bird species, butterflies, and hiking.

It should be no surprise that Boquete hosts a couple of Panama’s biggest festival celebrations. It is the perfect setting to stimulate artistic ability and creative talent, making it ideal for hosting the annual Boquete Jazz and Blues Festival.

Boquete boasts a vibrant music and arts scene. The annual Boquete Jazz Festival was founded in 2007, the second-largest jazz festival in the country after the Panama City Jazz Festival. Having been renamed Boquete Jazz & Blues Festival, it’s held annually in February. Since 2012, the event has showcased first-class international Blues acts and notable Panamanian and Latin American artists featuring Jazz and Latin American music styles. It was the first festival in Panama to do so. These entertainers are a great success! According to friends who have attended the festival, it features outstanding talent. As people walk about, they say there are smiles on every face, dancing, and great fun. This has been described as a great community event for all.  My information tells me the festival is moving from Boquete in 2024 to the Buenaventura Resort on the Pacific Riviera.

The Boquete Flower Festival has been held annually from around January 11th through the 21st since 1984. Our good friends attended the festival, and this is how they described what they found. The festival is held in the Feria grounds on the east bank of the Boquete River near an old cable suspension bridge. The bridge is indeed an engineering wonder as, despite its dilapidated condition, it still stands and carries traffic. They found a festival atmosphere with at least 200 stalls. Local artisans displayed everything from local native costumes to coffee, handicrafts, food, beer stands, and magnificent flowers. The army of gardeners had done a masterful job keeping the 30,000-plus blooms bright and well-watered despite the drying winds and tropical sun. Given the altitude and climate, it was apparent that the organizers had gone to great lengths to pick the most attractive and durable plants. Our friends saw everything from petunias and pansies to beautiful bright chrysanthemums. In the center, they found a display by the local orchid society. These blooms were indeed the jewel in the Feria’s crown and as exotic and exquisite as the orchid name implies.

On their drive from David north to Boquete, they noticed, with the change in climate from hot and humid to cool and refreshing, multicolored flowers were abundant along the roadside and in the ditches. It was easy for them to understand why Boquete is Panama’s flower capital. They also told me that missing the vegetable display would have been tragic. The abundant vegetables in the area are responsible for the fantastic food found in the restaurants locally. Based on my experience, Boquete always has something great to enjoy.

Visitors to Boquete are frequently invited to visit the Tuesday Market because it is such an integral part of the community. The Tuesday Market activities have been a big success, both commercially speaking and in integrating the locals and the expatriates working side by side. Any Tuesday visit to Boquete must include a visit to the Market. We have visited there on two previous occasions.

The last time we were there, we took a hike on the Pipeline Trail, explored the countryside, and hiked the hanging bridges of Tree Trek. We were traveling with my writing group, and Detective Larry was conceived at the same hotel where we stayed on this trip. I am anxious to share the first of the Detective Larry Saunders Mysteries, Murder in Eagle Cove. It is scheduled for release on November 1st, 2023. Newsletter subscribers are getting advance notice of special events and some surprises. Subscribing to the Newsletter is simple and free. You likely received an invitation to subscribe when you opened this blog post. If you didn’t get the invitation or skipped over it, send me a private message. Include your name and email address so I can add you to the distribution list.

Our agenda for this visit was to enjoy some outstanding local restaurants and take an excursion to the top of Volcan Baru. The Volcan excursion was one I never thought we would be able to do. The journey to the top is at least a four-hour hike in each direction. For an old, out-of-shape senior citizen, this is unattainable. Fortunately, we found a tour company offering transportation to the summit by four-wheel drive ATV.

We arrived in town with time to explore before stopping at a local favorite, Big Daddy’s, for lunch. After a relaxing lunch, we went to Boquete Garden Inn for the next two nights. The inn has a happy hour at six every evening and a complimentary breakfast each morning. We settled into our rooms and met our fellow travelers for a glass of wine in the hotel’s delightful bar. Our dinner reservations were at The Rock. It’s considered one of the finest restaurants in town. I may get hate mail for this, but let’s say it’s not likely to be a place where I would return. Our dinner bill was the highest of our adventure, and it was just average food. The highlight of the experience was a marshmallow roast at the firepit in the outside dining area after our meal.

We met our tour operator on Thursday morning in front of the inn at 3:30 a.m. The early departure meant we would drive to the summit of Volcán Barú in the dark to see the sunrise over the Caribbean if the weather cooperated.

Volcán Barú, also called Volcán de Chiriquí, is an active stratovolcano and the tallest mountain in Panama, at 3,474 meters (11,398 ft) high. It is about 35 km (22 mi) from the border of Costa Rica. It’s also the twelfth-highest peak in Central America.

Due to its height and the narrowness of the isthmus of Panama, it is possible (though relatively rare) to see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from Volcán Barú’s peak on a clear day.

The small town of Volcán is at the base of Volcán Barú. The erosion of a small river there exposed an ancient forest below, dated to about 1000 years old. Volcán Barú is surrounded by a fertile area of cool highlands drained by the Chiriquí Viejo and Caldera Rivers. The towns of Volcán and Cerro Punta can be found on its western side, while Boquete is on the eastern flank.

The occasional fall of hail or ice pellets has been reported on the summit, where the minimum temperature can be below 0 °C (32 °F), and frost formation is frequent during the dry season. The peak is host to a large installation of broadcast towers.

It has been determined that El Barú volcano is active and part of the extension of the Central American Volcanic Arc in Panama. In 2006, an earthquake swarm was registered in the Volcán Barú area. This was not the first; researchers cite at least three other seismic events recorded recently (1930, 1965, 1985).

In 2007, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), in cooperation with Panama’s Science, Technology, and Innovation Secretariat (SENACYT) and the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID), published a study on different aspects of Volcán Barú. The report outlined potential hazard areas, rock composition, and areas affected by previous eruptions; there is evidence that during the last eruption, which occurred in the 16th century, the debris avalanche deposits covered an area reaching as far as the Pacific Ocean (the largest documented in Central America and nearly ten times the area covered by the Mt. St. Helens debris avalanche in 1980).

Data collected at several locations from four previous eruptions during the last 1600 years indicate that a new eruption would last several years, putting population and costly infrastructure at risk in the areas surrounding the volcano. Typical events during such volcanic episodes include pyroclastic flows, super-heated gas clouds rapidly descending the volcano’s east flank, conceivably reaching as far as Boquete, Alto Boquete, and the Caldera River, and fallout of ash and other particles ranging in size from dust to one-meter blocks, known as tephra, causing fires, roof collapses, water contamination, crop damage and eye and lung irritation, especially among elders and infants. A third type of event, mud and debris flows, known as lahars, create landslides, obstruct river courses, and could have long-term effects in the zone. The severity of these events is directly related to the lava flows and their interaction with underground water deposits.

The volcano was declared Volcán Barú National Park in 1976, with an area of 14,325 ha (35,400 acres). It’s a part of the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor. Fauna includes the black guan, black-and-white hawk-eagle, Underwood’s water mouse, volcano junco, wren thrush, and yellow-thighed brush finch. Over 250 species of birds have been identified within the park, and all five species of big cats live here as well. The national park protects various habitats, including humid montane forests, low humid montane forests, and montane rainforests.

The park’s most popular hiking trail is the Sendero Los Quetzales (Los Quetzales Trail), which connects Boquete with Cerro Punta and wraps around the side of the volcano. The trail takes around 6 hours to hike. There is another trail to the top of the volcano, but this is long, steep, and strenuous.

On our visit, we could see the Pacific coast clearly while clouds shrouded the Caribbean side of the volcano. The summit is the only destination in Panama where there has ever been snow. It was about 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit) when we reached the top. There was no snow, but the 25-mph wind was unforgiving. The volcano has seven craters, which are all visible from the top. The Volcan Baru National Park allows only fifteen vehicles to make the ascent to the summit daily, and there were two others there on Thursday morning. The road to the top is roughly thirteen km of extreme rocks and ruts. Our driver, Melissa, was very skilled and delivered us safely to the top and back. The park only allows qualified, experienced drivers to make the journey. We followed another driver from her company in both directions. The two groups included our group of six, another guy who paid for a private tour, two drivers, and a guide. There was one stop along the way to clear rocks from the road for passage. I understand that hikers can no longer hike up in the dark of night. Camping at the summit is also no longer allowed. I believe the other tour company delivered some individuals to the top who would make the hike down. In any case, it is a challenging hike for even the most experienced hikers.

While at the top, our tour operator made us breakfast while we stood in awe of the magnificent sunrise views and the surrounding vistas. The trek was about two hours in each direction. Each time a vehicle makes the trip to the top, it is taken immediately for a complete inspection. She says replacing the tires, shocks, and brakes is commonly a short cycle. The ride down was a bit more daunting than the ride to the top. One of our fellow travelers arrived at the bottom with bruised ribs from the descent.

I cultivated some of the history and geography from Wikipedia, while some came from our guide.

Our dinner plans on Thursday night took us to RetroGusto. This was one of the best meals of the week, in my opinion. I rarely share pictures of food, but the image below is of my entree. I enjoyed the smoked pork chop. I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting Boquete. The restaurants in Boquete are a treat, and we all wished we could experience more of them. We have been to RetroGusto on one other trip to Boquete, and the experience both times was delightful.

The smoked Pork Chop
The smoked Pork Chop

On a previous trip there, we enjoyed Mesa Azul, which we recommend. We enjoyed a great meal at George’s Grill on our first trip. I related a great story in the first edition of 2 Retire In Panama? from George’s, but some readers had terrible experiences there, so I will refrain from recommending it.

Friday morning, we enjoyed a delightful breakfast at the Boquete Garden Inn before checking out and heading home. This hotel has been renovated and remains a favorite place in Boquete. We always find great new friends while visiting. On our drive back to Coronado, we found Dona Gladys. This was a stop Jen and I made on our first trip to Boquete, and I stated in the first edition of 2 Retire in Panama? that I didn’t think we would ever find it again.

I always recommend spending several months on the ground here in Panama before deciding where to retire. The consensus of our group was that Boquete is a beautiful place to visit for many reasons, but a little damp and cool. We’re pretty happy living in the beach community of Coronado. Go and explore the country and draw your own conclusion.

Our next great adventure is less than two weeks away. We are traveling to the Mayan Riviera of Mexico, near Cancun. We plan to visit Tulum and enjoy other sites near our resort. Watch for posts on social media in the weekly newsletter, and be sure to return to read our next blog post. If you’ve yet to subscribe to this blog or the newsletter, please do it. I have kept the content free and have never spammed my readers. We love you all and love sharing our adventures.

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Our San Blas Adventure

In an article dated January 20, 2022, Joey Bonura lists the 14 Incredible Islands you must visit in Panama. As I scrolled through the article and checked out what he had to say about each, I realized that I could nearly own this list. I have referenced Joey’s blog below. He is a professional blogger sharing great information from his adventures throughout Latin America. Jen and I have had a hard time adventuring in Panama during Covid, but we are resuming our special adventure routine within the country and beyond.

Early last month we checked off one such adventure with a visit to San Blas. San Blas was high on my bucket list, and we scheduled our visit through Elias Perez with Kuna Yala Expeditions. I have referenced Kuna Yala Expeditions below for anyone interested in an adventure there. Our visit was a full emersion experience, staying on the island of Corbiski, where Elias is the administrator and a teacher at a school that educates over 140 Guna children. Almost half his students come from several of the surrounding islands arriving daily by boat.

One of the most outstanding destinations within the national territory of Panama is located in the northern Caribbean coast and is composed of about 365 islands, certainly one island for each day of the year, all of coral origin along 200 miles of coastline in the Caribbean Sea. The chain of islands is called the San Blas Archipelago, and officially known as the Kuna Yala Region. the map below gives a little perspective.

It’s likely that most tourists have heard about this archipelago, and many have seen documentaries on television about this paradise in Panama as the necklace of coral islands has become one of the most popular eco-tourism destinations within the Central American and Caribbean region. Kuna Yala is an autonomous region within the Panamanian territory, and its history dates back more than 500 years before the arrival of the Spaniards to the new continent. Its population comprises approximately 61,707 Kunas (according to the 2000 Census), who reside on the islands and mainland (located in the vicinity of Lake Bayano in northeastern Panama), distributed in about 48 villages in the region.

The Kunas, as the members of the region are called, are considered one of the few indigenous tribes of the American continent that keeps their culture almost intact despite the global changes that affect the world around them. We decided to learn a little more about the Kuna Yala region, the Kunas, their culture, and tourist attractions.

Jen and I had an amazing adventure in San Blas. We traveled to Panama City on Monday afternoon and settled into a room at the Riande. We like to stay there because they allow us to leave our car while we’re adventuring for $5.00 per day. We had a little time for shopping and dinner in the city before grabbing a nightcap and turning in early.

A nightcap before turning in early

Our driver picked us up at 5:40 a.m. for our journey to the port. San Blas can be accessed from Panama City by air daily with 25-minute flights depending on your destination within this set of islands. We opted for the more adventurous journey.  We were transported by four-wheel drive vehicle from the Riande hotel in Panama City, taking the Pan-American Highway toward the Bayano region. It was nearly an hour into the trip that the driver turned off the Pan-American highway near El Llano de Chepo to go directly to the coastal community of Cartí. This option is not for the faint of heart and only accessible during certain months. The road is extremely rough, winding through the mountainous jungle.  A person would have to be insane to take their personal vehicle on this road. It was about an hour before we arrived at the passport checkpoint. Technically, when you enter the Kuna-Yala territory you are entering a sovereign nation.

The passport checkpoint (No photographs allowed)

After passing the checkpoint it was another hour through the winding, rutted jungle road before we reached the port of Cartí.

A good stretch of the road

Once we reached the dock, we were met by our boat captain and guide. They would be taking care of us for our entire visit.

The dock at the Cartí Port

I was able to get some of the information above from Panama 24.org. I referenced their site below if you’re interested in reading more about the Kuna-Yala.

Our first island stop was one of the most famous islands in San Blas, Dog Island.  This is often considered one of the cleanest waters of the world and one of the best places in San Blas to snorkel. There is an old army gunboat sunk near the shore that is easily reached for the snorkeling enthusiast. We were thrilled by the warm, crystal clear, blue Caribbean water. We found changing rooms and hit the beach, enjoying the peaceful serenity of this beautiful location. We spent the remainder of the morning soaking in the sun and swimming.

Dog Island Photo by Mónica J. Mora

There was a small kitchen on the island manned by Kuna women who served us delightful whole fried Corvina, coconut rice and patacones. After a nice lunch, we had more time to enjoy the beach and swim before our boat captain rounded us up. He and the other guide took us to a cool natural swimming place in the middle of the ocean where the water was probably less than 18″ deep. He dropped anchor and invited us to enjoy this amazing place. We jumped from the boat and began exploring the edges which dropped off instantly into the deep, warm Caribbean.  One of the guides walked the entire perimeter, returning with a big armful of conch shells. We got some really neat pictures thanks to one of the other adventurers. The boat had snorkel gear on board, but we didn’t use it (I was concerned with using community snorkel gear because of Covid).

Standing in the middle of the ocean

On our journey, the boat guides toured us around past several islands, giving us a sense of this magnificent place.  The island of Corbiski is where our accommodations were located. The island is the home of many natives. As the boat approached the dock, we could see that the homes of the people went up to the edge of the water covering every bit of available land. There is no infrastructure of roads and utilities. The concerns for environmental changes are apparent, but there is no place to dispose of waste. The first thing I noticed is an abundance of garbage. I was told that all garbage had to be transported back to the mainland where there was a cost for disposal.

The island of Corbiski
These little islands were everywhere
Enjoying the boat journey

Most of the native people live on a few of the larger islands with the smaller islands receiving tourists for beach adventures or camping. Some of the smaller islands turn into party spots after dark. We were thankful for the quiet of our cabana, which had its own private bathroom and a nice little covered porch. It was rustic, but peaceful, positioned on a pier over the ocean. The island didn’t have a beach near our cabana. The breeze was perfect the entire time and we had no concerns with insects. We took along bug spray but never took the can out of our bag. Our bathroom plumbing flowed directly into the ocean and the shower was a mere cold trickle. There were no towels, soap, or toiletries provided. We were thankful we had the foresight to bring our own. There were no outlets. The lights were from a solar cell, and we had USB ports to charge our phones. We had cell service, but no wi-fi.  There was time for a nap before dinner. We met our host, Elias, for the first time late in the afternoon. He came around to make sure we were comfortable and brought a beautiful hand-crafted mola which his wife had made for us. She had fashioned it after the cover from my book. I got a picture of Jen and Elias proudly displaying the book and the mola.

Elias and Jen display the mola and book
Another view of our cabana
A view of our cabana from outside
The cabanas at Corbiski as we approach from the water

Dinner was served around 7:00 p.m. The cook prepared us each a beautiful lobster.

Lobster served with yucca and cabbage slaw

During dinner, we had a perfect opportunity to get acquainted with our fellow adventurers. The other three people, whom we had spent the day, were in the cabana next to ours. They were on an adventure from Lima, Peru. One of them was celebrating her birthday, too. She and I shared a birthday and the five of us had a great time getting to know one another over a great meal. All three of them spoke near perfect English, although they were slightly self-conscience of their ability. They became comfortable chatting with us. They were only there for one night.

Our new friends from Peru and Elias

When we woke the next morning, we went to the dining area and found coffee and breakfast waiting for us. The girls joined us for breakfast, then we boarded the boat for more island adventures. The five of us were treated to two more islands, each better than the previous. We had lunch on a tiny island that actually had chairs on the beach. Jen and I didn’t realize how nice it is to have a chair until there weren’t any.

Our second day lunch was chicken with patacones and salad
Jen enjoys a chair on the beach
Another of the beautiful beaches we visited

To most people, throwing a towel down on the sand is fine. To us, being a little further from the sand is good. That last beach was the hardest to leave, even though we were wrinkled from swimming and over-exposed to the sun. By mid-afternoon, it was time to take our new friends from Peru to meet their boat back to the dock. When we parted, they made sure we had their contact information. They invited us to Peru to explore their beautiful country.

Our new friends from Peru sharing lunch with us before their departure

After we dropped the girls at their transfer point, we had the option to visit another island, which we declined. That quiet little porch of our cabana was calling us home. Our guides took us to the dock, and we went to rest from our adventure. The place was buzzing with a mission group of teens from Connecticut. They were bunking in the other cabanas. The group is led by Mike Evans who operates a 501(c)3 to bring basketball to underprivileged areas worldwide. His mission is called Full Court Peace. I have linked his website below if this is something you want to read more about. I was deeply touched by what they were there to do. Before dark, they had set up a volleyball net on the site of the future basketball court and had the kids in the village involved in a game.

A little time for volleyball before dark
After we left the group assembled the basketball goals and had a basketball clinic for the locals

Elias gave us a tour of his school; however, the students were gone for the day. He also showed us his water project. The village operates entirely on water captured from rain and stored in a huge bladder. No wonder the shower is only a trickle. We enjoyed dinner with Mike and the boys before retiring to our cabana.

The water storage for the village

On Thursday morning we had a nice breakfast with our new friends from Connecticut before departing for home. I am continuing to get pictures of their project and other pictures from Elias and the school. In one respect, the time there was much too short, and, in another, it wasn’t. I would love to have stayed behind to help build the basketball court and see the school in action, but, truthfully, Jen and I were exhausted and had gotten too much of the beautiful sun.

Another view of Corbiski as we depart

We aren’t accustomed to primitive accommodations and were ready for our own bed and shower. The other cause of extreme exhaustion is emotional. I was emotionally drained from the extreme poverty and living conditions of these beautiful people. There is so much they need and so many ways to help that my mind was running on overload.

Volleyball spectators
Some children from the village
Children gathering outside the school

I needed time to get my mind wrapped around how to write this. I would like to suggest ways to help with Elias’s school and water project. I would like to recommend that if this is something that interests you, contact Elias and book a tour. Day trips are available as are multiple day adventures. I would suggest, based on our experience, that one day is enough. If you are a compassionate giver, take school supplies, give generous tips to the people providing service, and offer a contribution to Elias to help with their water project and school. They will offer beautiful hand-made molas which are great souvenirs of your time there. We bought three which we’re having made into throw pillows.

The molas we purchased will make beautiful throw pillows for the sofa

I’ve seen people frame them, fashion them into handbags, or make beach bags from them. The Kuna women use this technique to make their colorful dresses. Jen and I have been supporters of the school there. When Elias presented us with the beautiful mola, which his wife made, we knew this very special gift would be framed.

Our framed Mola

The experience gave me a renewed respect for conservation. The people in these native communities get by with such a small fraction of the resources which we are accustomed to having. I felt bad having an unneeded light on, not finishing my plate, or taking an unnecessary shower. Thoughts of having to do without soap, shampoo, or deodorant horrifies me.

The cost of our adventure was all-inclusive. It covered accommodations and all of our meals. We bought some extra beverages on the islands where we visited, purchased those beautiful molas, and tipped our guides. There were otherwise no hidden costs. It would be wise, if you visit, to carry along a gallon of drinking water. Elias provided us with a bottle when we arrived. The others visiting brought along their own.

References from our visit to San Blas:

Joey Bonura Blog

More about the Kuna-Yala

Elias Perez Kuna-Yala Expeditions

Mike Evans Full Court Peace

Internet Photo

Two weeks following our adventure in San Blas, we took a whale watching excursion with our friends, Mike and Diane. The whale watching season runs from June to November. There are multiple excursions available. We opted for a catamaran hosted by Sea Las Perlas.

In the Panamanian Pacific waters, it’s possible to observe numerous families of humpback whales, who cross the warm waters of Panama’s coasts during their annual migratory journey from Antarctica. During their migration, the entire Panamanian coastline and especially the famous archipelago of Las Perlas (The Pearl Islands), have become the tourist destinations most frequented by travelers who want to witness this extraordinary spectacle of nature.

Our adventure started the day before with our drive to the Amador Causeway, where we checked into the Beachhouse Hotel. It’s a boutique bed and breakfast situated only five minutes from the Isla Flamenco Port where our excursion would begin. This was important as we were required to check in at 6:45 a.m. for the 7:30 a.m. departure.

Check-in
Our comfortable room
The Beachhouse Hotel
Our walk down the causeway

We settled into our rooms and wandered the causeway for a while before taking an Uber to dinner in Panama City. We enjoyed a delightful meal at Casa Alejandro, which is right off Avenida Balboa in downtown.

I woke early to capture some great pictures of the sunrise over Panama City from our balcony.

Sunrise over Panama City

After enjoying the beautiful sunrise, we checked out of our hotel rooms, packed the car, and drove to the dock. Check-in for our excursion was easy and we joined about 35 others on the boat. It was comfortable and there was a guide who was bi-lingual. He gave us a great description of what we could expect. We chose seats inside, which was air conditioned. There was also seating outside at the rear of the boat. Restroom facilities were available aboard the craft.

There has been extreme interest in the magnificent new cruise port being built on the east side of the Amador Causeway at the south end of the Panama Canal. Norwegian Cruise Line is already sailing from the new port, with many other cruise companies preparing to welcome people aboard from this strategic new location. This will position Panama to be one of the premier locations to catch or disembark a cruise. This is a huge feather in the cap of the Minister of Tourism, who had the vision to support this project. I captured the picture below as we left port.

The new cruise facility

There’s never a guarantee that you’ll see whales, but our experienced captain and guide didn’t fail us. About halfway into our journey to Isla Bolaños we happened upon a school of dolphins who gave us quite a show. They surrounded the boat as if we were there to entertain them. Little did they know that we were the ones being entertained.

Dolphins
Dolphins

As we continued on, we began seeing whale after whale. I suspect that we saw well over a dozen before reaching the island. The mama whales were very protective of their young and getting great pictures was nearly impossible. This is a unique experience in life that can’t be missed. The captain was always preserving safety and keeping a respectful attitude towards nature. Despite all of that, we were at times much closer to the largest mammals in the world than it appears in my photos.

I never mentioned earlier that the weather was near perfect when we left Panama City. It, however, began to change as we neared the Pearl Islands. It’s rainy season here and we’ve grown to expect anything. We made landfall on Isla Bolaños at the Sonny Island Resort around 11:00 a.m. It was there where we enjoyed lunch while it rained. The rain continued, making it difficult to enjoy the beaches of the beautiful little island resort. It did subside periodically, and we explored long enough to get some great pictures. This resort is off the grid and a favorite of people who want to disconnect for a day or more. There were cabanas and tents available for overnight guests. Power was supplied by a huge field of solar panels positioned in the middle of the compound. Restrooms and showers were available. This island happens to be the first on Joey Bonura’s 14 islands you must see while visiting Panama.

Isla Bolaños
We made landfall on Isla Bolaños at Sonny Island Resort
The tent experience
Sonny Island Resort Bahia
The Beach Bar at Sonny Island Resort
Magnificent beach
Our boat is parked way out there. We’re going to get wet on the panga back.

With rain coming down in sheets, we got soaked on the small boat which returned us to the catamaran. We didn’t hold out much hope for seeing more whales on the return trip but were pleasantly surprised.  We not only saw more whales, but we also had sufficient time to dry out before arriving back at the dock around 5:00 p.m.

Sea Las Perlas

Sonny Island Resort

In August, we explored two of the 14 islands Joey Bonura says you must see in Panama. In the opening paragraph, I alluded to the fact that I could almost own his list. It looks like we’re halfway through it. In addition to San Blas and Isla Bolaños, which I covered here, Jen and I have explored several of the others Joey talked about. I blogged about them in previous posts. If you’re interested in our experience and haven’t read the previous posts, I have linked them below.

Bocas Del Toro

Boca Chica

Isla Mamey / Isla Grande

Contadora

My blog posts are coming along more infrequently than in the past. I blame this in part to how busy we’ve become in retirement and, in part, to my weekly newsletter. I also blame it on the fact that I’ve been working on the manuscript for a mystery fiction book. The book is not yet named, although the rough draft is complete. Some days it’s difficult to put my butt in the chair and write. We’ll keep adventuring and share our experiences as long as there’s interest. Please sign up to receive the newsletter if you haven’t already. I publish it every Monday morning. Both the blog and the newsletter are free, and we never share your information. If you haven’t signed up to get the blog posts, the sign up is on the right margin. I seem to be blogging about 10 times per year.

Jen and I are going to Columbia in a few weeks. You can expect to see a fresh blog post when we return from there.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama