We continue to explore The Republic of Panama. We absolutely LOVE this country.
Our good friends and travel buddies, Lyn and Ty Gilbert invited us to go on an adventure to the Caribbean side of the country with them. We were tasked with taking a look at a boat at Marina de Panama for some friends. We left on Saturday morning for the three hour journey to the marina. We found the boat and gave it a good inspection. The twenty year old yacht was priced well, but we found that it did not meet the needs of their friends. It was interesting and fun to explore this area.
Marina de Panama was east of the town of Portobelo. Our reservation was further east at the small resort port of Puerto Lindo. Our accommodations were at a bed and breakfast called Bambu Lodge. The lodge was across the road from the bay and backed up into a dense jungle mountain setting. Bambu had three guest rooms. Our room did not have internet or television. The shower in our room offered cold water only, but otherwise it was clean and comfortable. We were lulled to sleep by the howler monkeys in the jungle nearby, but we didn’t get the opportunity to see them. Our host offered a wonderful dinner and we took full advantage. The Panamanian cook was very good and we enjoyed the wonderful hospitality. Our host also arranged for an awesome island tour which we fully enjoyed on Sunday. The occupants of the other guest room were from South Africa, and also in the area to look at a boat. Before turning in we enjoyed a game of dominoes on the deck overlooking the bay.
Our boat captain picked us up early and took us to the dock. He spoke no English, but the communication was not an issue. He gave us a great tour which included the extensive Mangroves called the Tunnel of Love, Isla Grande, Monkey Island, and Isla Mamey. He let us swim, snorkel, and enjoy the beaches on Isla Mamey and Isla Grande. We made two attempts to see the monkeys on the monkey island, but we had no luck seeing them. We also got to see a marina on the tour. The cost of our boat tour was only $15 each.
In Portobelo we were excited to explore the ruins of Fuerte San Jeronimo. This fortress was the largest ever built to protect the bay. The Spanish troops protected the bay until they left in 1821, when Panama declared its independence. Many of the cannons are exactly where the Spanish left them nearly 2oo years ago. We walked about what is left of the officers’ barracks, quarters, guardroom and observation terrace over the water.
This whirlwind weekend ended much too soon. We always enjoy exploring with our friends, but wanted to be home in Coronado before nightfall. We are doing a lot of exploring in Panama, and hope that you are enjoying these adventures as much as we enjoy sharing them. Please, let us know what you think. Like and share our blog if you find it worthy. Our travels are going to take us further in the very near future. We are looking forward to an upcoming trip to Costa Rica where we will catch up with some other good friends.
We are continuing to explore the beautiful Republic of Panama. Our travels are taking us from Playa Boca Chica, where we explored magnificent islands and a remote resort, to Pedasi. Pedasi is also a quiet community where we found a few small bed and breakfast type resorts. Our reservation is at Punta Franca Hotel. We found Punta Franca rustic but adequate. There were over twenty guest rooms, a pool, and a restaurant. We had panoramic views of the ocean, but the resort was sitting on a rock cliff. A visit to the beach involved a long walk or a short car ride. Although the remote location was nothing compared to Regalo where we stayed in Boca Chica, it was on a washed out road about 5KM from the pavement. We met our good friends (adventure partners) Ty and Lyn here, and spent a relaxing afternoon in the pool. We decided to enjoy the restaurant at the hotel for dinner. The food was good but the service left a bit to be desired. Our long wait for dinner gave us time to set a plan for our adventure the following day.
Our hope was that we would get a boat tour to Isla Iguana, but the timing did not work out. We decided to drive south along the coast and explore. After breakfast, we set off in Ty’s truck for a day of awesome adventure. The road was sometimes good and sometimes not so good. We drove past Playa Venao which is probably the largest resort community on the peninsula. There were a few people around, but the activity was light. The main reason we decided not to investigate living here is the proximity to airports, health care, and grocery stores. It is an awesome place to visit but too remote for us. As we drove south we moved away from the ocean and into the mountains. We were speechless at the amazing mountain views and farms along the way.
We knew that the ocean was just on the other side of the mountains where it was obvious to us the most important thing to these people is farming. We rarely saw any houses. When we saw people they were friendly and welcoming even though it was obvious to us that they didn’t often see “gringos” driving around here. At some point we decided to drive until we reached the end of the road. We now refer to this adventure as the “end of the road adventure”. We knew that if we continued south we would reach the south end of the peninsula. We emerged from the mountain road onto a beautiful beach at a town called Cambatul. From there we drove west for a couple of Kilometers on a two-track until the road literally ended. Before it ended we did pass through two small rivers. We turned back and went back to the place where we emerged from the mountain road onto the beach. There we found a quaint little resort with tile roofed cabins on stilts and a restaurant. We took a swim on the beach and were welcomed into their establishment through a path from the beach. Along the path we found showers to rinse off the sand. The Panamanian owner waited on us and he spoke perfect English. His wife was cooking and the menu was exceptional. We had no problem agreeing to return to this place for an entire weekend.
This adventure ended much to soon. As we headed for home we agreed to take another adventure together very soon. We have yet to see any of the Caribbean coast. Our next adventure will be to Portebello on the Atlantic coast, east of the Panama Canal. There are some ancient ruins there and opportunities to explore the islands.
We are quickly learning that this life is a daily blessing. At times we miss our family, but the world is so small now we can talk as often as we wish. We have a lifestyle here that far exceeds anything we could afford in the States. We have chosen to live in a high end resort community where most of our friends and neighbors are English speaking, but we have the ability to go off on adventures that remind us where we really are. In a few weeks we are going to explore in Costa Rica for a few days. There is a whole big world to explore. We encourage you all to take some chances and spend some time outside your comfort zone. Life is too short. We have been reading in Ecclesiastes during our journey through the Bible and chapter 3 verses 11-13 reminds us that “He has made everything beautiful in its time. He has also set eternity in the hearts of men; yet they cannot fathom what God has done from beginning to end. I know that there is nothing better for men than to be happy and do good while they live. That everyone may eat and drink, and find satisfaction in all his toil-this is the gift of God.” There is nothing more true for us today.
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One of the coolest things going on here in Panama is these new signs to promote tourism. We have been trying to snap pictures of these signs on our adventures. Sometimes we get a bunch and sometimes not so many. There are times when we pass one with no possible chance to stop for a picture. The lazy, laid back, port of Boca Chica just got their sign. It is still shrouded in plastic, and the landscaping is under way. We were able to walk right up and take a great picture.
When we left our condo for our adventure we were filled with expectations. Our expectations rarely line up with reality, and Boca Chica was no exception. Our reservation was made for the Regalo Guest House. our host said just follow the signs.
The driveway was literally 18 KM long which computes to around 11 miles. We didn’t buy in for this remote, but it was really a great place. At the end of the driveway (they call it the Y) you make a turn opposite the direction of the main road to go another 6 KM to the village of Boca Chica. Along the driveway we spotted signs for things that we never got to see. There was also an equestrian center and a lot of wash outs. The picture below is what the majority of the driveway looked like. Our host told us that they had a beach 5 minutes from the house, but we didn’t find it.
Upon our arrival we were greeted and offered a welcome cocktail. The place had breathtaking views and a very nice pool. It was also helpful that the chef was more than capable. We knew that driving back into the resort after dark would be dangerous and a crazy idea, so we ordered dinner and took a swim. The hosts are from Wisconsin. they recently purchased the property and had an objective to make it upscale, remote and private. There is a helipad for anyone desiring to shorten the commute. The host asked if I was a pilot. He wanted to make connections for helicopter transits to this beautiful resort. Surfing lessons are available as well as boat tours of the islands on the Golf of Chiriquí.
We made arrangements to take the island hopping tour the following morning. Our hosts offered up a fantastic breakfast then packed a cooler for us and led us to Boca Chica. We found a secure place to park on a side street, then walked a short two blocks to the dock.
Our captain for the day was Victor. He proved to be capable and knowledgeable of the islands. Victor spoke perfect English, which was a bonus that we did not expect. We shared the boat with a Panamanian family. The couple also spoke to us in English. Their perfectly behaved children were also bi-lingual. They ended up joining us for dinner at Regalo. It’s possible that they may become life long friends. It always amazes us how welcoming and friendly the local people are here. Our tour started on Isla Bolanos where we were able to swim and soak in the awesome sites and sounds of the Golf of Chiriquí.
Using the map above to put things in perspective to the left is Costa Rica. To the right of Boca Chica is the Peninsula de Azuero. Our next adventure takes us to the far south end of Azuero to a village called Cambutal.
The second stop of island hopping was where we enjoyed a great lunch. It was the only island with commerce. We saw just one small house where they were serving drinks and fresh seafood. we took the opportunity to restock our cooler and have Red Snapper served with salad, rice and patacones. Following lunch we took a swim on the beautiful beach before heading off to our third island.
Our third island stop was Isla Gomez. It was a tiny uninhabited island with a perfect beach. We did not have to share this island with anyone else. Captain Victor gave us an hour to swim and enjoy the beach before returning to the dock at Boca Chica.
After returning to the dock we walked around a bit in the village. There is very little to see and do there. It is a very basic little town of fishermen and tourist boat excursions. This is a very popular destination for whale watching. The whales migrate past here from August to October. This is where whales give birth because of its safe warm waters. Otherwise, everyone here has an agenda of fishing, sightseeing, or scuba diving. There are no cute little shops or restaurants. We opted to return to Regalo for a relaxed evening meal with our new friends.
We have had a couple of other great adventures over the past couple of weeks. We are always willing to share privately contact information for the tours and accommodations where we enjoy these adventures. Just drop a message and we will get back to you. We still are not endorsing anyone and we do not accept payments for endorsements. If you see an advertisement on our blog that interests you, please click through. We do get paid for that. At one time we thought it would help defray the costs involved in maintaining this site. We were badly wrong on that. To date our pay back is less than $5. We write the blog because we enjoy sharing our experience in Panama and beyond. Please enjoy, like, and share. Our reach is limited to you, our readers, and those with whom you share. In a few days we will share other great adventures.
We follow a great blog entitled Latitude Adjustment which is written by John and Susan Pazera. John and Susan are Expats residing in Columbia. They recently published a post that is seriously awesome. A similar idea has been in my mind for quite some time. Latitude Adjustment captured the idea in my head and beat us to the punch. We have shamelessly used much of their post to create one of our own. Enjoy!
So, you have decided to try living outside your home country.
Congratulations for “taking the road less traveled”. It can be a wise and courageous choice if you approach it with an open heart and mind. If you do, you will be rewarded with a lifetime of adventures and memories.
As we approach our first anniversary of expat life let us give you our two cents on how to prepare for your expat life, step by step.
As you do your research and start to narrow down your target country, you will read a lot of glowing reviews on the internet and in magazines extolling the benefits of different locations. Many of these sources paint a rosy picture that may seem too good to be true. A lower cost of living and a more simple way of life are big motivators for people from the U.S., Canada, the U.K. and South Africa. Indeed it is possible to realize the benefit to living somewhere other than ones birth country, but it takes research, work and perseverance.
Step 1: Do your homework.
In other words, do not take the glossy magazines and websites at face value, especially the countless articles that list “the top ten best countries to affordably retire to” or take any similar approach. Quite often they are promoting these countries with an ulterior motive, and the truth may be somewhat different. Avoid any site or publications that are trying to sell property. Buying property should be the last thing on your agenda before you have had time with your boots on the ground in your target country. Try to connect with as many real-live expats as you can. Check out the online expat forums and blogs. The expat groups on Facebook can be good information sources. We spend a great deal of time on Expats In Panama Facebook page, and continue to cultivate valuable information from there regularly. The best advice we have here is to seek out legitimate information posted by people who actually live where you seek information. Our best information sources have always been, and continue to be, expat blogs written by people who know what it is like to live, day in and day out, in a given location. These blogs are often written by people like us, who benefit greatly from those who went before us and are eager to pay the favor forward by sharing information. Not only are these people very reliable, but you can expect to get an unvarnished view of their experience. Often these contacts can turn into real, live friendships and important resources once you have made the move.
When you talk to people, go beyond questions about the weather, livable neighborhoods, crime statistics, cost of healthcare, and other living expenses. Most of this information is easily accessed by way of a Google search. Instead ask what it is like to access the healthcare system. What are things you love most, and what things aren’t so great? Is the language difference really a barrier? Do you get homesick, and how do they remain connected to their family? What do they miss most about their birth country?
Step 2: List the pros and cons of your target country and city.
No place is perfect. You have to weigh the options that best fit your circumstances. How is your health, and will you be able to receive affordable care and quality treatment in your new home? What is the process of obtaining a residence visa and how much should you expect to pay? What about safety and political stability? Will your new country tax you on your income? If you are moving with pets, how complex and expensive is the process, and how pet friendly is your target location? Does the area you are considering have an expat community? Is an expat community important to you?
If you decide to move to a non-English speaking country, are you prepared to get at least a basic knowledge of the language? In our first year in Panama we have learned enough Spanish to survive. We can order food from a restaurant menu, ask for directions, and communicate other basic information. We both know that this “survival Spanish” is not enough to carry on any meaningful conversations. We continue to practice our Spanish skills every chance we get. We have found that the people are incredibly kind and forgiving when we are butchering their language, and they seem to really appreciate the effort. Culturally, we see two options: jump in, feet first, and immerse yourself in your new country and its people, or take baby steps and move somewhere with a large expat community to make an easier transition. We call this the “training wheels” approach, and it’s essentially what we did when we moved to Coronado, Panama. In a place like Coronado, it is possible to live for many years without learning a word of Spanish. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that, and it’s the “comfort zone” many people seek.
Step 3: Adjust your attitude before your move. Expatriating is not for everyone.
If you are a positive, “glass half full” person in your home country, then you have the stuff for the expat life. Trust us, you will need all the positivity you can muster!
What is your comfort zone and how much inconvenience can you tolerate? If you need things like on-demand hot water, having family close by, the convenience of shopping for anything you want, fast reliable customer service, and mail service, you might be better off staying put. You might also have to deal with infrastructure issues like power outages, undrinkable tap water, sporadic internet service, and poor cell phone coverage, just to name a few. Of course, these factors can vary dramatically from country to country, and from province to province or city to city.
Another very important factor for couples is that you and your spouse or partner need to be on the same page. If one of you are wavering, you need to address that before you make any move. Expatriating has to be a team effort. And if you’re thinking of moving as an escape – from your country’s political situation or otherwise – chances are you won’t be happy somewhere else.
Most of all, don’t go with the expectation that your new home should be more like your old one. Expecting things to happen just as fast, or be just as easy, as they are in your native country will quickly result in frustration, and – in our opinion – misses the whole point of expatriating. Sure, we have plenty of moments when we’re scratching our heads and saying things like “We could have gotten this done five times faster and easier back in the States.” Depending on where you go, expect lots of inefficiencies, government bureaucracies, and moments of sheer disbelief bordering on the comical. But we’ve learned that these moments are part of the experience. If you go with the flow and enter each situation with an open mind, you will get the job done!
Step 4: Get your boots on the ground.
As surprising as it seems, we have met people who actually picked up and moved to their new country after just one vacation visit, or even without ever having visited. We would lay odds that most of these people have already moved back home or will be doing so soon. One little visit, hitting just the tourist sites, is not enough to experience day-to-day life in the new location with all of its pleasures and challenges.
At a minimum, we recommend two or three visits to your target city, and try to spend at least two weeks at a time. Try to go at different times of the year, so you will know if you can tolerate the area’s weather extremes. Rent a small apartment rather than staying in a hotel. Buy groceries and cook in. Try to simulate, as much as possible, to feel what actually living there is like. Does the neighborhood have a safe reputation, and is it quiet? Are the locals friendly and helpful? How walkable is it, and how convenient are restaurants, shopping, transportation, healthcare facilities, and entertainment?
If you have already connected with expat bloggers in your prospective city, plan on meeting up with them. Buy them lunch and get their perspective and recommendations. They will be your best and most current information source for immigration and visa requirements, housing, transportation, health care, and other matters. Remember that information is constantly changing and what you read on the internet is often outdated.
A smartphone is your best friend. Get yourself a local sim card and make sure you’ve loaded, at the minimum, WhatsApp and some sort of navigation app, such as Google Maps or Waze. WhatsApp is especially critical in Latin America, since everyone uses it. In fact, people here are much more likely to respond to a WhatsApp message than an email or voicemail. Other highly useful apps are Google Translate and other language apps, Units Plus (a nifty metric-to-imperial tool for every type of unit, as well as a currency converter).
Step 5: Figure out money matters.
The financial aspects of expatriating should be a central element in your research. You’ll get a feel for the cost of living in your new country after your exploratory trip(s). Remember: relocating to another country involves costs: transportation, shipping, visas, furnishing a new home, the true costs of healthcare, deposits and other fees for renting, the costs of trips back home to see family, etc. If a lower cost of living is your primary motivator for moving, weigh these expenses – you might be better off staying put. And before we go any further, we urge you to live in your new home for at least six to twelve months before you even consider buying property. How will you access your money and how will you pay for things? we suggest that you get a credit or debit card that has no foreign transaction fees and reimburses you for all ATM fees. We use a Citibank card for most purchases and pay it directly from our U.S. checking account by fund transfer. This offers a less expensive means of paying for things than bank wire transfers. If you are collecting a pension or Social Security in the U.S., we do not recommend having your either deposited into a foreign bank account. It is a process to get it set up, and you may be charged fees.
Here’s one they don’t tell you about in the retirement publications! Most financial advisors will not represent you overseas. We maintain an address in the States (one of our children) to avoid situations such as this. To make a long story short, the company that has managed our retirement funds for years would dismiss our business without an address in the U.S. Make sure your investment company will stay with you if you move to another country.
Step 5: Time to make your decision.
OK. You’ve made your first fact-finding trip and you’ve been back a couple of times to try out different neighborhoods. You’ve gotten most of your questions answered and you’ve found the city/town/village that feels like “home.” It’s time to make a decision. Now your most important work is ahead of you. Find out exactly what is required for legal residency – fees, timeframes, and necessary paperwork. What is required to open a bank account, secure housing, obtain healthcare coverage. How do you get a driver’s license, sign up for utilities in your name, and get a mobile phone contract?
Which leads us to . . .
Step 6: Get an advocate.
Getting things done in another country with a completely different culture is challenging enough, but if you’ve got a language barrier, the challenges are multiplied. Even before you move, try to connect with a facilitator or advocate, someone local who also speaks your language and can help you navigate the business/legal aspects of getting settled in your new home. They are available, and are not hard to find if you ask the right questions. One of ours is a tour guide who helps with all sorts of other tasks. He helped us to purchase our car, even before we had our “boots on the ground”. The other is our realtor, who has become more than a lifesaver…she has become a lifelong friend.
Final suggestions.
Expatriating is not for the stuff-addicted. The leaner you go the happier you will be. We know new expats that have moved with a 40 foot container, shipped cars, boats, and motorcycles, only to realize later that the expat life was not for them. Do not bring stuff, especially big, expensive stuff, unless you are prepared to sell it at a huge loss or ship it back if you change your mind. Remember also, that there may be customs duties to consider.
Here is another random thing you might not consider. Is your passport up to snuff? Many countries will not allow entry if a passport is within six months of expiring. If you are from the U.S., you might not be aware that they no longer issue extra pages for an unexpired passport that’s run out of stamping room. If you travel extensively and your passports don’t expire for a while you could run out of pages. Do not renew your passport while you are in the process of obtaining residency. A new passport number will render the residency documents worthless. If you are short on pages or within 6 months of expiring, renew it before beginning your expatriating adventure.
Other important paperwork, wherever you go, is your original drivers license, birth certificate, Social Security, proof of retirement letter or other proof of pension funds, marriage certificate, bank statements, and a copy of your last tax filing. Bring several copies of each. As you apply for residency in your new country, be prepared to present certified, notarized, and/or apostilled copies of these documents. Bring your medical records, and get a summary of your medical history translated into the language of your new country .
Have an exit strategy.
It is something you might not want to think about, after doing all your homework and making a decision as monumental as picking a new country and city to call home. But what if things go south in your new location – politically, economically, militarily? We are not trying to be downers, but todays world is a complicated place. Take Nicaragua, for instance. There are expats who built lives and homes there, and recently had to leave when the country was plunged into a civil and political crisis last year. Are you willing to pick up and leave everything behind? How much of your expatriating investment are you willing to walk away from? (It’s another argument for moving with as little stuff as possible, and for not buying property right away.) You must have a plan and funds for making a quick exit if need be?
Footnote: So why did we decide to expat?
We both were fortunate to retire early. We had one government pension between us and a healthy (not huge) savings. When we did the research we found that we could live for less per month overseas, and hopefully never have to spend the savings. We were anxious to move to a better climate, but did not want to be far from children and grandchildren, so we moved to Panama. In addition to it’s perfect proximity to the States, Panama is also an ideal location to explore from. We are meeting new people, beginning our plans for exploring, experiencing different cultures, learning new histories, beholding other worldly natural beauty, and enjoying a wonderful sense of freedom. These are just a few of the rewards of expatriating that we have and will experience. We wish the same for you!
We will talk here about buying a home in Panama; however our advice easily computes to almost anything or any place when moving overseas. As a caveat, this blog is a summary of our experience and, as we have learned, not every experience here in Panama is the same. It is not intended to give legal advice, but to inform people of the process we followed.
First and foremost, use every fiber of your due diligence. We have continually advised that people spend at least a year on the ground in the country prior to buying real estate. Being on the ground and meeting your future neighbors, exploring your future neighborhood, and getting involved in a community are the only ways to be sure you are making a solid decision. This is also a way to make sure that buying real estate is right for you. It is easy to buy real estate in Panama, but hard to sell. It is a depressed real estate market at this time, but appears to be showing signs of turning around. We have met several ex-pats that rent and will continue to rent with no intention of buying, and that was a decision which was right for them. Also, living abroad is not right for everyone. We do not want people to jump right in and buy real estate without knowing that this move is right for them. Because it is so hard to sell property here, making a quick decision to buy can be bad. We knew that this was at least a 10 year adventure for us, and we knew that Panama was the place we wanted to be. As a result, making that decision to buy was good for us. We did not buy our home to use as an investment.
Second, learn the customs and laws of the country of which you are considering. This is done by reading blogs, doing internet searches, and asking questions. There is a lot of information out there, and you need to decipher through that information.
Third, and certainly not least, obtain wise counsel in a reputable real estate agent and an attorney. You may also want to speak with your financial advisor and your CPA or tax person.
In any developing country everyone must understand that they are no longer in the United States or Canada. Laws to protect consumers are practically non-existent outside of those places. Things like mortgage loans are rarely available to expats and if you find one, it will be a high interest rate and unusual terms. Be prepared to pay cash. That being said, you will need to know how you will get the money to the seller. Bringing more than $10,000 cash into Panama is scrutinized by the U.S. government due to concerns about money laundering. There will be requirements and documentation at the IRS. Make sure you understand the consequences, so it is a good idea to talk to your financial advisor and CPA about this topic. We cannot speak for the Canadian government requirements. There are also costs to do international wire transfers, whether it be from the U.S. or from Canada.
An arms length transaction will usually require a 10% earnest deposit which is non-refundable! We discovered that this is negotiable, but the 10% is “standard”. That money is spent to pay the agent(s), seller’s attorney, and ready the paperwork for closing. Make sure that your decision to buy is solid. Ask questions and make sure that you have a licensed real estate agent and your own capable, tried and tested attorney. It is important to know that both these occupations are protected by the Panamanian government and reserved for Panamanians. If you choose to deal with an American or Canadian agent for ease of communication, it is unlikely that they are licensed. Most of these people work for an unknown person who holds a license and pays little attention to how they operate their business. This goes for rental agents as well. There is a form of the Multiple Listing Service here in Panama, but it is not used or accepted as readily as it is in the U.S. Real estate agents here in Panama appear to strive to sell their own listings and, as a result, are not as apt to share information with other agents. We know several people who used several different agents to sell their property, as well as to purchase property. Also, attorneys may engage in many different businesses and many are not full time in law. Please, ask friends for referrals to find an attorney and a real estate agent who will get your business done in a timely and fair manner. Be careful and use your own due diligence, instinct, and intuition when hiring these professionals. Just because one person had a good experience does not mean that you will. We are choosing not to provide referrals on this blog. This blog does very little advertising and we have not collected any referral fees for endorsements. Our intent is to entertain and educate. If you would like more information on who we used, we will be happy to provide that in a private message.
There are numerous horror stories that float around about properties being sold to multiple buyers, sellers who do not have the right to sell, and buyers who do not get the documentation necessary to have clear title to their home. Make sure your new home has a deed. Make sure that your attorney and real estate agent do their job and both are honest and upright in their dealings. We have met, know, or are friends with each of the above mentioned. We know an individual who came home and found her house seized by the government (including all the contents). The seller didn’t have the right to sell this home or any of the others in the neighborhood. This realtor should be in jail but is not. Advance purchases at substantial savings are often a bad idea. Another friend here bought a new home at the beginning of construction in 2012 and is still not moved in. Their home is within hours of completion but no certificate of occupancy has been granted. The developer has several projects and none are being completed. Buyer beware!
Currently the real estate market in Panama is very depressed. Most sellers are trying to get more than the market will bear. The diligent buyer must also be concerned with over paying. This means knowing what is on the market. We viewed at least 20 different properties in different locations to get a feel for what is out there and what would be a good price to pay. The current President has been in office for five years and will be replaced in the election just a few days from now. Most people here are waiting to see who will replace him before making buying or selling decisions. It appears that the current president has done little to promote business and tourism. The result is a suffering economy. That being said, it can be a buyer’s market for the savvy buyer. Keep in mind that buying in an area with a lot of expats has advantages and disadvantages. Expats tend to drive prices on consumer goods higher in that area. We elected to buy in an area of other expats. We pay prices compared to the States on some things while other things are much less. For the most part, our dollar goes further here than it would back home. We have a very nice home and enjoy dinners out often without blowing our budget. If an expat wanted to live on a very small monthly pension or social security it is possible by selecting a place to live away from the expat communities. That involves immersing into the local culture and definitely being fluent in the Spanish language.
We made an exhaustive list of “must haves” when we searched for our home here. Our agent was aware of our requirements and usually only showed us homes meeting most of those requirements. We wore her out searching for the perfect home without sacrificing any of our “must haves”. In the end she found us a place that required very little compromise and left us some money for a bit of remodeling. She helped us find local contractors to do the work and helped us with the language barrier. She is a full service agent, and went above and beyond every step of the way.
The original purchaser of our home in 2009 placed the home and its contents in a Panamanian corporation. Our seller, who was the second owner of our home, maintained the corporation. We had the choice of purchasing the corporation or having the corporation transfer the deed to us individually. We decided to purchase the corporation. In our research, the corporation has some benefits, even though there is an annual cost to maintaining it. It is a very common way to hold property here and that made the purchase very clean and simple. We actually bought all the shares in the corporation from a Canadian seller. We bought all the benefits, including a country club membership, and, as a result, were able to maintain the balance of 12 years of tax exoneration. Our corporation is the owner of our home and its contents and we know that the corporation will pass to our heirs to do with as they please upon our passing. We opted to use the same attorney as the seller, who was also the attorney and resident agent for the corporation. The attorney prepared the stock purchase agreement as well as all the corporation transfer documents and she will handle the annual corporation renewal on our behalf in the future. Our other assets held in Panama can be protected by a Panamanian will, if we choose to do that. We choose to keep our other assets in Panama at a bare minimum.
Our stock purchase agreement was completed in both English and Spanish, side by side. The law here does not require this contract, or a buy/sell agreement, to be in Spanish to be legally enforceable, but if there is a legal dispute, the court will require it to be translated into Spanish. We liked the way our attorney prepared it. In the agreement, you want to make sure that all the shares of the corporation are transferred and that there are no encumbrances or liens on the shares or on the corporation. Also, you want to make sure that there are no unpaid home owner’s association fees, taxes, or utilities (including cable/internet). It is also good to ask if there are any special assessments being requested. One condo we looked at was making improvements to their pool area and assessed $10,000.00 per owner to be paid at $5,000.00 per year for 2018 and 2019. Had we not asked, we may have never known about that until after closing if we had purchased that unit.
Make sure there is a title search and, if the property is in a corporation, a due diligence investigation is done on the corporation. It is our understanding that real estate deeds are not very old in Panama. There is something here called owning property by “right of possession,” but we did not encounter this in our home search. If you are buying property from an owner with this, please do additional research and ask more questions of the professionals to make sure the owner has the right to sell the property. Our real estate agent took care of our title search and the attorney took care of the corporation investigation.
Title insurance is very common in the U.S.; however, it is not common at all here and is very expensive. We felt pretty safe on the title since our building was built in 2009 and we were only the third owner of the unit. Also, the attorney was the attorney for the corporation, so she had an interest in making sure the title was transferred properly. In addition, escrow accounts or escrow agents are not as common and are relatively new. We used the attorney’s escrow account to handle some of the money transfers. She told us she maintained a separate account to handle these types of situations. As a result, we transferred our 10% deposit to the attorney’s account when we signed the Stock Purchase Agreement.
The seller had to pay some taxes (a 2% title transfer tax and a 3% capital gains tax) and our attorney took care of this payment for the seller. As a result, our contract required us to wire money to cover the taxes to the attorney’s account and the balance was a wire transfer to our seller in Canada. As a side note, one of the main reasons real estate was put in corporations was to avoid these taxes as the taxes are triggered when the transfer of title was filed at the Public Registry. However, a recent change in the law (which is common in Panama with each president) now assesses a 5% share transfer tax when a corporation owns real estate and sells its shares. As another side note, the international wire transfer to Panama required a lot more information (like the purpose of the transfer) and took longer than the wire transfer to Canada. Our seller received her money within a day while it was a week before the attorney received it.
The buyer and seller each have closing costs, including notary fees and attorney fees. Expect those costs and fees to be between $1500-$2000. It took approximately 3 weeks from when we made our original offer (which was verbal) for us to “close” (when we received the keys, paid the balance we owed to the seller, and received copies of some of the corporation documents). However, there was additional paperwork, we, as buyers, needed to receive, such as final documents filed with the Registro Publico de Panama and the original corporation documents. We received those documents approximately 7 weeks later. Closings can take a lot longer, depending upon the title search and the attorney’s schedule. We were lucky in that our closing was relatively smooth and quick.
We moved into our new condo full time at the end of January after doing some remodeling. We are very happy with our decision and with our choice of professionals used. Each person has a different experience, so, as previously stated, do your due diligence. Do not be afraid to ask questions to make sure you understand the process.
We have given a lot of information here, and realize that many of you who follow may not need this detail. There are others who will find this helpful. We would like to encourage questions, comments and feedback especially from those of you who have experience buying and selling real estate abroad. Thanks for reading and sharing. Good luck with your move overseas.
We recently entertained cousins from Pittsburgh. They were our most adventurous guests to date and we will share a bit of our adventure while they visited. Some of you who follow us on Facebook already know that my personal zipline experience was a disaster. I eluded to the possibility of my sharing that video on the blog. I am sharing my experience and that of Jen (yes she did it), Robert and Bill. I was overwhelmed with pride when Jen came zipping out of the jungle canopy even after witnessing my disastrous attempt. Robert followed Jen, then Bill. I must state right up front that none of us are physically fit teenagers, and probably should not even have attempted this adventure. The line was about a 30 second zip, none of it too far off the floor of the jungle. I will let the 4 videos speak for themselves. Our hosts barely spoke any English which complicated the experience, but overall we thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience. They served us a great Panamanian lunch and gave us a nice hike through the jungle which comprised their modest property. Please enjoy the videos. If anyone would like the contact information for Kontraste Adventure, just a few kilometers outside La Chorrera send us a message.
You can safely assume that none of us took a 2nd turn on the zip-line.
We couldn’t resist taking our guests to the Ron Abuelo Rum Distillery and the Bio-diversity Museum, both of which we have explored with previous guests. Please check our archives to find out more about those wonderful tourist experiences. We also took them to the Miraflores Locks and visitor center which was a first experience for us. They have a great museum and an I-Max movie which are a must see for Panama Canal visitors.
A trip to El Valle is another must see for all our guests. We were able to take them to a couple of places that we have not shared before. We also repeated some favorites. We took them to the rim of the volcano for a look down into the valley. We also explored El Macho Falls, which was a treat for all our senses. The sights and sounds of the walk through the jungle were amazing. The waterfall was spectacular and the excitement of the people zip-lining the face of the falls was awesome. Our hike ended at the bottom of the falls where Jen, Bill and Robert swam in the pool formed by the waterfalls. It is ice cold; and I had no part of it.
We had a busy week while Bill and Robert visited. Both are foodies, and were always wanting to explore the foods of Panama. We went for the Lobster, Corvina, Pipa Fria, and even stopped along the highway for Ceviche. They particularly seemed to enjoy the Fonda experiences. No trip to Panama would be complete without a visit to the beach and pool time.
We had a great visit and thoroughly enjoyed sharing our home with these crazy guys. Before they left, I am certain they needed a vacation from their vacation. We went full blast the entire duration of their visit. Shortly after they left Jen and I went on adventure of our own to Jamaica. We have vacationed there in the past and it was a pleasure to meet and enjoy some time with friends from the States. From Panama it is an easy 90 minute flight to Jamaica. We are often asked what inspired our decision to relocate to Panama. One of our best reasons is that Panama is a great location to explore from. We will always have great things here to share with our guests, however, once we get completely settled we will explore more of the Caribbean, Central and South America. There are hundreds of great destinations within a couple of hours by flight or car.
We never seem to have a shortage of things to occupy our free time. Church keeps us busy and we are finding volunteer opportunities that pique our interests. We have a friend at our church here, Chuck Holton, who is an independent correspondent. His reports are frequently carried by the 700 club and other Christian media outlets. He has spent a lot of time recently on the border of Venezuela where people are starving due to the collapse of the Socialist economy there. His reports are also rooted in mission work and he is always trying to help the native people. A very good friend of ours travelled with Chuck this week through the jungle South-east of here to the border of Columbia. There they set up clinics to provide medical help in five refugee camps. Missions such as these are on our radar, but for now we will be staying right here in our own community where there is no shortage of need. This week the local Rotary Club in association with Rotary Clubs in the States and our church here provided free dental care for many in the community. It was such a humbling experience to volunteer and see the people being helped by this awesome mission.
From time to time we are contacted by other expats who are interested in coming to our area. These contacts have always turned into friendships. If you are interested in becoming part of the expat community here in Coronado, make contact with us. We look forward to showing folks around and sharing our experiences. As always, if you found something entertaining or helpful, like and share our blog.
Often, too much time passes between my blog posts. For this I often feel guilty. I have been attending writing workshops with Lynda Allison. Her encouragement, and that of the other attendees, has been priceless in my decision to continue writing. In the future I hope you all will notice subtle changes in the way information is being presented here. I want our readers to see, hear, feel, taste, and smell Panama in the same way Jen and I do. I am, also, committed to pushing out shorter, but more frequent posts.
In our last post I eluded to our impending move to a new residence. We stand by our advice to rent and explore for a year prior to purchasing here in Panama. We fast tracked our purchase of a home by a couple of months, when we got the opportunity to buy a nice place that met 100% of our criteria. Our research was complete and we moved forward. We absolutely love our life in this Coronado community. There is a huge core of American and Canadian expats living here; with many others spending portions of the year here. There is also a trend of people from South Africa relocating here to escape a deteriorating political climate. We are becoming involved in a local English speaking church and a multitude of outreach activities. We are becoming fully engaged in learning Spanish, even though you can easily live here without knowing a word of Spanish. We have developed friendships that we will cherish for life. All that being said, I think you all may see from where the future of this blog will come.
We bought our new home in late December and engaged in an aggressive, minor renovation. We hired a local Panamanian Electrician for some additional outlets and to move a couple of switches. We then employed a local Cabinet Maker who built some new cabinets to match the existing and add some crown molding. We are sharing some before and after pictures. It feels good to have most of the fine detail done, and be completely moved from our rental. One of our biggest motivations to buy this condo was that it needed very little. We are in the El Alcazar Building in the Coronado Golf Complex. It is within walking distance of beautiful Pacific Beaches, golf, tennis, an all-inclusive hotel, beach club, restaurants, and country club style facilities. Every window of our condo has panoramic views of the ocean, mountains, and surrounding community. For readers interested in the details involved with purchasing real estate in Panama, we will explore them in detail in an upcoming post.
The last several weeks we have done far more than work on and move into our new home. We had a two day adventure to Colon where we enjoyed an all-inclusive hotel deep in the jungle on Lake Gatun. Lake Gatun makes up a large part of the Panama Canal. We were located only a few minute drive from the Agua Clara Locks, which are part of the recently expanded Panama Canal. These new locks accommodate the largest of ships. We watched as a container ship carrying over 10,000 containers (1 container is the size of a semi trailer) passed into and out of the first chamber. It was interesting to watch. The canal passage for this particular ship was in excess of $800,000. We also got a look at the new bridge over the canal. It is nearing completion. You may remember pictures of it in our post from October of 2017.
In keeping with my goal to make shorter, more frequent posts I will wrap up for now. Please feel free to go back through our archives. We love feedback and questions. If you have not subscribed to get our posts automatically delivered to your e-mail, please do it now. Like and share our blog to keep them coming. we remain excited to share our experiences and adventures.
About two weeks ago effigy’s started showing up all along the Pan-American Highway. The effigy’s are also referred to as Munecos, Dummies, Old Year Dolls, and Judas Dolls. They are life sized “stuffed people” and they make up one of Panama’s many New Year traditions. Folklore has it that the effigy should be stuffed with fire crackers, beaten, and set on fire. The sins and evil spirits of the old year are destroyed to make way for good fortune in the new year. It is believed that ghosts are afraid of light and noise. The fire crackers, therefore, help drive the evil forces away. We went for a short drive and returned with a bunch of pictures to share. They usually try to make the effigy look like well known politicians, movie stars, or other popular people from the past year. We saw candidates for the upcoming Presidential election here in Panama and of course there were a few attempts at President Trump.
As you can see the imagination is off the charts. We find the whole thing a bit sacrilegious, so it was difficult to create a blog post using this tradition. As we thought about it, we decided that it would be unfair not to share fun and interesting cultural traditions regardless of our beliefs.
Other popular traditions for Ano Nuevo in Panama include eating 12 grapes at midnight making a wish with each. After eating the grapes you spit out the seeds and count them. The number of seeds is your lucky number for the new year. Use this number when playing the lottery (lottery is popular in Panama). Make sure you have a little money in your hands while eating your grapes. Having money in your hand at midnight ensures that you will have money throughout the new year. You should wear yellow underwear to have good luck throughout the new year. Wearing red will attract love in the new year. To get rid of bad energy from the old year you should burn incense. Hanging a bunch of oranges, rice, and wheat behind the front door will give you prosperity, work and health. Putting rice in a pot will attract wealth in the new year. Last but not least, it is believed that a swim in the ocean on New Year’s day will clean out the bad from the previous year and bring good things in the New Year. In all fairness, we found most of this information on livinginpanama.com. That is where we turned when the effigy’s started showing up along the road.
The people in Panama like to have a good time. We actually spent our evening with friends at the restaurant right here on the property. It was much safer than driving. Our evening was capped by great fireworks and we didn’t see anyone burn an effigy..
Life is indeed good here. Over the past few weeks the snowbirds have started to filter in. January to March is high season here and we expect to catch up with some old friends from last year and make new friends this new year. We bought our own condo at the end of December. We put in a lot of time researching and looking for the place that was just right for us. We are doing a small bit of remodeling prior to our move. Stay dialed in to this blog, to see our new place and we will share the details for transacting real estate business in Panama. It really was like our own episode of “Beach Front Bargain Hunt”.
We consider it a privilege to share our life in Panama with you all. Please, like and share so we reach everyone. If you have not subscribed to receive our posts by email now is a great time to subscribe. We will never spam you and our security is outstanding. It is also a great complement to have your input and comments.
were but two of the highlights during our recent visit from my Dad, Doug, and his friend Renee.
We knew that we wanted to have some special adventures while they were here and the entire week was loaded with fun and adventure for all. Many of you will recall our past adventures to El Valle de Anton . A click on the link here will take you to our post from the first adventure there. El Valle is only about 45 minutes away and we never fail to take our guests there. We journeyed up the mountain last Monday with Dad and Renee in tow. It was a beautiful sunny day and we started out at the Orchid Conservatory. The blooms are different each time we visit. We all thoroughly enjoyed this tour and the only way for you all to share the experience is by our sharing of some pictures.
After checking out the orchids we went over to the El Nispero Zoo and garden. We have heard that the zoo is more of an aquarium than a zoo, but we found the contrary. There were also many species of local animals, including rescues, in addition to the aquarium. We found the aquarium to be the most interesting with endangered species of toads and frogs from the rain forest. The golden toad is thought to only exist in this habitat. Some say that there may be more in unexplored areas of the jungle nearby. We found the small zoo easy to explore and very enjoyable.
After we left the zoo, we went over to the market for some fresh produce and a little shopping. By mid afternoon we were headed back down the mountain home.
Jen and I continue to search for our new forever home here in Panama. We are nearing a big announcement on our decision to purchase here. We will continue to advise new expats to rent for a year. That gives people a sufficient time to figure out if they like the climate and environment. It is also important to become educated on the housing market. There are many other factors which we will explore in detail later. On Tuesday we were able to show our special guests the property where we hope to one day permanently settle. We also had a nice lunch at their beach club.
Wednesday was one of our pinnacle adventures. We left home early and drove to the Gamboa Rain Forest Resort. We enjoyed a wonderful canopy tour of the rain forest which ended at the top of an observation tower. From the tower we could see the Panama Canal, Chagres River, and many other interesting things. We could even see the thatched roofs of an Embera Indian Village up the river. We also, had the opportunity to see a sloth eating and basking in the sun on a tree branch near the tower. Following our tour we had lunch on the veranda of the hotel.
The second of our pinnacle adventures was a trip to the Ron Abuelo Distillery. Since arriving in Panama we have used , and swear by Wayz for navigation. There are no street names and a great deal of trust must be had in the navigation system. When we reached the turn for the distillery, everyone said this cannot be right. With faith we went on down a two track that lead us through a few kilometers of sugar cane before emerging on the back side of the distillery.
We made our way through the plant grounds to the welcome center. We found this tour to be one of the most amazing yet. We started in the plant where our tour guide explained the process from processing the sugar cane to bottling. they do not bottle the product at this location. It is shipped to Panama City to a bottling plant. You may notice that there are no pictures inside the manufacturing facility. We were not allowed to take pictures inside. Following the plant tour we were returned to the welcome center for a cocktail. The distillery was founded by the family of the current President of Panama. Preparations were being made for The Presidents visit over the weekend (Saturday, December 8, was Mothers Day here).
Following our cocktail we toured the warehouses where all the rum is aged. The Ron Abuelo is aged in retired Jack Daniels barrels. That is what gives the rum its caramel color. The longer the aging process the darker the color and the smoother the rum becomes. The family reserve is in its own warehouse and the barrels are racked on their side. This is where we found the 30 year old rum aging. The 30 year old Ron Abuelo sells for over $120 US dollars. We didn’t buy any.
Once we finished the tour of the warehouses we returned to the welcome center where we were given a tasting of each of the different levels of Ron Abuelo Rum. The tasting included education and certification for determining the reason for the increase in the aging process and the value of aging in the manufacturing.
The tour ended with a traditional Panamanian lunch. Three courses of fantastic.
On the drive home we continued to explore with stops at a Panamanian Cemetery and a cigar factory.
Before our special guests left we had to take them to Playa de Panama and our special lunch shack experience. Usually the proprietor has lobster for $10 and Corvina for $8. He also sells beer for $1 and if you’re lucky you can add coco arroz for a $1. We found that lobster was in short supply Saturday. Instead he was offering giant langostinos (prawns). We brought our own beers and our total lunch bill for 4 people was $36. Following our lunch we all went for a refreshing swim in the Pacific. By the time we left the place was packed. The people in Panama love to celebrate Mothers Day on the beach.
As we prepare to close this post it has occurred to us that you, our readers, deserve to know that we have no paid endorsements. That being said, we are enjoying many tours without breaking the bank. We have found a great resource for taking tours on a budget https://ofertasimple.com . It is a great pleasure to share our adventures with you. Please feel free to share and keep the momentum of our blog going. As we anticipate the blessings of the Christmas season, please know that we will be celebrating the birth of our Savior here in the tropics.
Yes, you are about to hear of our awesome adventure over this past weekend. Things at our house have been extremely busy over the past several weeks, so we have to apologize, with explanation, for the lack of recent posts. Shortly after our last post we had a wonderful visit from friends who live in Michigan. We shared some adventures with them that would be a repeat to our blog, but were great never the less. One adventure of note that we have yet to talk about is the Playa de Panama which is just a few short minutes from our condo. The beach is generally quiet and secluded. The best part is that there is a shack at the entrance where you can get a great meal of Lobster or Corvina with Patacones.
The price for Lobster is $10 and the Corvina is $8. The purveyor usually has ice cold beer for $1, but it is not a problem to bring your own drinks. Once our friends departed, we found ourselves busy dealing with the sale of our house in Michigan. As of now it is scheduled to close by the end of the week. With the sale of our house looming near we have resumed actively looking at homes here in Panama. Last week was the Thanksgiving Holiday in the States. It is just another day here in Panama, however we opted to create our own grand celebration. We shared our meal with new friends from five countries, including Canada, Germany, South Africa, Panama, and The United States. There were traditional and non-traditional Thanksgiving food with Turkey and everyone bringing a dish to pass. We also made sure that the staff here at our condo was fed. A great time was had by all.
This is where we catch up to the present. We left early on Friday morning with our good friends and neighbors to share a weekend adventure. Our adventure started with a stop on the Amador Causeway to explore the Biodiversity Museum.
The experience was, without question, one of the most interesting experiences. Readers may recall our previous post T- 21 Days To Departure . In that post we presented research where we found some great adventure destinations. We were able to cross a couple of these destinations off our list, and more, this past weekend. The Bio Diversity Museum was self guided. Each of us had a device that we could listen to, which guided us through the museum in our native language at our own pace. There were also real human guides all along the way who were all multi-lingual. They helped fill in the blank spots and answered any questions. The museum explained how Panama was formed by volcanoes, rising from the ocean which created a land bridge from South America to North America. The result was the convergence of two populations of plants and animals on one single land mass. The museum also helps teach how to live in harmony with the other plants and animals with which we share this space.
Following our visit to the museum we explored the Amador Causeway. The Causeway runs out to the Pacific along the Panama Canal. It is lined with marinas, bars, restaurants, and shops. We located a great fonda where we had lunch.
The Flamenco Marina is just down the way. This is our destination Saturday morning. Our ferry to Las Perlas (The Pearl Islands) will depart from there. We have round trip tickets for the ferry ride to the island of Contadora where we will spend the day. Following our lunch we found our way to the Raddisson on the Panama canal. We got checked in and took Uber to Casco Viejo. We enjoyed Casco well into the late evening. This was our second trip to Casco. There is so much to do and see that we will entertain friends there for years without ever tiring of it. The Cathedral on the square is being renovated and it is nearly completed. When we were there the freshly refurbished bells were waiting on the sidewalk to be returned to the bell towers. We also toured another Cathedral where there was a scale model of Jerusalem. It was just incredible. Our night ended with dinner then a half block walk to the Presidential Palace. It is Independence month here in Panama and we enjoyed fireworks over the bay near the palace. Panamanian people love fireworks.
Saturday we were up early for our 7 a.m. ferry departure. The Pearl Islands are a string of islands about 1 1/2 hours away by boat. Survivor fans will remember a season of that show was filmed there. We visited Contadora. It was a beautiful beach destination, but not the same island where the popular television program had been filmed. We rented a golf cart on the beach and took off to explore. The island has several restaurants, beaches, a few bed and breakfasts and an airstrip. We enjoyed two different beaches, one of which we did not share with any other people. We all agreed that this was someplace where we could spend a few days. The surrounding islands made for spectacular views.
There is so much more to share, and we are feeling a bit guilty that we have allowed so much time to pass between posts. We hope that you all have enjoyed our pictures from this weekends adventure. We are preparing for special guests this next week from the States, and there are a couple of great new adventures planned for their visit. We are committed to sharing those in a little over a week. We are hopeful that we may, also be able to share more about our pending home search here in Panama. We wake every morning feeling thankful and blessed to be retired in such a beautiful place. Please like and share our blog to keep us out there. The new rules at FaceBook are continuing to drive us crazy. We will post a link, but they seem to block our ability to share as we used to.