Our Year in Review 2024

Without a doubt, 2024 was our biggest adventure year of retirement. We visited over seventeen different countries and saw some amazing sights. We celebrated a monumental birthday with my mom in Florida. I attended a writer’s conference in Greece with bestselling authors Jonas Saul and CC Humphries. We cruised on three ships to visit the Greek Isles, almost the entire perimeter of South America, including the Strait of Magellan (Cape Horn), and revisited the Caribbean. If I don’t yet have your attention, read on. I will share some amazing adventures and slip in a few incredible pictures.

In February, my sister Melinda, her husband Hunter, Jen, and I, along with our three daughters, their spouses, and grandchildren, gathered in Fort Myers, Florida, for a surprise party to celebrate our mom’s birthday. I wanted to share a few pictures from the party. It’s not often that a surprise of this magnitude can be executed with such precision. Great Job, Melinda.

In March, Jen and I flew to Santiago, Chile, for a great South American adventure. Our detailed blog post about the trip is in the blog archives. We explored Santiago and some of the Chilian interior before boarding the Norwegian Star to sail the coast of South America for 24 days. Our journey ended in Rio de Janeiro. When blogging our year in review, I never intended to repost what I’ve already posted. If you missed the South America Adventure, I hope you will click the link here or on the sidebar.

The Norwegian Star

In May, we celebrated Jen’s birthday and entry into the American Social Security system. Our good, life-long friends from Michigan came to Panama to help celebrate. The week was full of local adventure and celebration.

We enjoyed a special six-course dinner hosted by Chef Aristoteles at Nazca 21. One of our favorite entertainers, Pascal Turner, entertained us while course after course was delivered to the table.

One of the places that our visitors always ask to visit is Valle de Anton. It’s always a place where repeat visitors want to return. We explored the Sunday Market and The Museo del Valle de Anton before having brunch at the Golden Frog. The restaurant is off the beaten path, but the food is good, and our server spoke English. Our guests enjoyed the delightful patio atmosphere.

We certainly took our guests to the beach and pool while they were here. They asked for relaxation over adventure, which was fine with us.

Our visit wrapped up with a day of adventure in Panama City. We journeyed to Casco Viejo, where we toured St. Joseph Church (The Golden Altar Church), the Panama Canal Museum, the Mola Museum, and the I Love Panama Chocolate Company. We wrapped up the last day with a visit to the Panaviera at the top of the Trump Tower (J.W. Marriott). We had a delightful meal there while the sun set on our visitors’ final day of adventure.

The five of us enjoying the sunset

A few days after our Michigan friends left, we welcomed our oldest granddaughter to Panama. Jen and I have decided to have each of the grandchildren to Panama just before their senior year of high school. The time we spent with Victoria was special for all of us. We adventured and explored every minute of the ten-day visit. If you missed the blog post about Victoria’s visit in June, I hope you will click the link here, Victoria’s Panama Adventure, or on the sidebar to check it out. We are proud of Victoria’s accomplishments. She has chosen to continue her education at the University of Alabama, Birmingham. She was accepted and offered substantial scholarships. Congratulations kiddo.

Exploring the Amador Causeway

In early September, we went whale watching with eight friends in a panga on the Gulf of Chiriqui. We all agreed that it was the best whale-watching trip we had taken. Our guide, Captain Jay, had the whales figured out perfectly. There were times when we had whales in all directions. Our hosts at El Regalo Resort booked our tour and hosted us in delightful rooms. The resort has five suites, and we occupied the entire place. Jenni and Carroll have made their place the best of the best in Boca Chica. They have a chef who never disappoints. Our breakfasts and dinners were perfectly prepared, and the bartender kept the drinks flowing while we swam in the beautiful pool. I am sharing a gallery of great pictures from our adventure below.  Adventuring in Panama never gets old, especially with good friends.

By the middle of September, we returned to the skies for the pinnacle of our 2024 travel.  We flew from Panama to Miami for an overnight layover. Then, we traveled to London, where we met some friends, Joanne and Kirk. They took us for the best fish and chips and gave us an all-star tour of London before returning us to the airport for our flight to Athens.

We left London on a late flight to Athens, Greece. We arrived in Greece, transferred to the port, and caught a ferry to the island of Amorgos. On the third day since leaving Panama, we arrived at the Lakki Village Resort by midafternoon. It was a long day of travel and time zone jumping. I don’t know if it was adrenaline or excitement, but jet lag never caught up with us. We got plenty of sleep on the transportation and layovers.

Amorgos was the site of my writing retreat with Chris (CC) Humphries and Jonas Saul. It was amazing. After we arrived and unpacked, there was time to explore the resort. Our entire writer’s group gathered for a beautiful welcome dinner. After dinner, there was time to get better acquainted poolside with the facilitators and attendees anxious to discuss writing.

At the first morning session, we introduced ourselves and discussed what we were writing and what we were looking for from the retreat. The guest authors discussed the industry and offered clarity on direction. I had face time with all of the great authors at the retreat. Jen and I had lunch with Chris Humphreys and his significant other, Kat.

Jen and I with Chris and Kat

The second-day program was The Mountain: Beginning the Novel and Finishing It! Award-winning historical, crime, and fantasy novelist Chris (CC) Humphreys revealed some of his secrets of successful writing. Chris broke the writing journey into stages and guided us through each stage using a blend of anecdotal examples. Later in the afternoon, we gathered for a writing exercise.

On the third day, we discussed the discipline of creating the novel, how much emotion should be on the page, and how to place the tension in the right spots to keep readers turning the pages. We discussed setting up the book to be psychologically pleasing to the reader, leaving them with the emotional experience readers read for. Reading is an emotional journey, so make them feel it, and they’ll love you for it and tell all their friends about you (your book). After our session, we walked together to the village for lunch at an amazing local place. We gathered for drinks and casual discussion in the late afternoon before our evening meal.

On the fourth day, we learned to write a good fight scene that entertains while advancing the plot and revealing the character. How characters fight can reveal as much about them as how they make love. A good author must chance to delve into the dark side to broaden and deepen their characters and plot. Fight and sex scenes are a huge opportunity for any writer to confirm a suspicion or to startle with a revelation. A “character in peril” keeps the pages turning.

Later in the afternoon, we toured the 11th-century monastery of Agia Anna and the white village of Chora.

On our last day of workshops, we discussed promotion outside social media. Chris Humphreys and Jonas Saul demonstrated how to get our work in front of readers through proven results. This concluded the educational portion of our week. I met with Jonas Saul and enjoyed an awesome one-on-one lunch meeting. He shared his thoughts with me on a sample from the rough draft of Mayhem in Eagle Cove, the second of the Detective Larry series. His kind words about my upcoming novel were informative and inspirational. It was clear that this workshop would be a turning point in my writing experience. Exciting things will happen over the next few months as I finish the draft and send it to the editor. By the way, Mr. Saul has agreed to edit the upcoming book.

After lunch, we gathered for a village hike. Jonas led the three-hour hike from the ancient village of Lagada to Tholaria and back to the hotel. The gallery of photos below is a few from the hike. In one village, we stopped at Jonas’s home, where he unselfishly invited us in to see where he and Rania write and live during the high season on Amorgos. We were back in time for pre-dinner drinks. I’ve talked very little about the food at the resort. We gathered as a group each night and enjoyed a family-style Greek meal. Every day of the retreat was filled with information and encouragement that drove each attendee to be their best. We all came from different countries and backgrounds and wrote different genres, but the ability to feed off the knowledge of one another was as wonderful as the learning portions of our time there.

With the retreat ended, we left the resort at 4:45 a.m. for a ferry departure at 5:45. The ferry took us to Athens, where our driver picked us up and took us to our hotel, Attalos. After unpacking and settling into the hotel, we toured the Acropolis Museum.

Sunday at 11:00 a.m. we saw the changing of the guards at Syntagma Square. This is considered the best time to see this happen, and we had a great spot to view it.

Later in the evening, we toured Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon at sunset and got some great pictures.

We arranged to explore the ruins of ancient Corinth and the Corinth Canal the following day. We enjoyed a scenic drive from Athens to Corinth along the shores of the Saronic Gulf. The journey took us past beautiful beaches and the spectacularly narrow Corinth Canal, built to link the Saronic and Corinth Gulfs during the 1890s. Like the Panama Canal, it required several attempts before finally being completed. First proposed in the third century B.C. it wasn’t completed until 1893. In stark contrast, it is sea-level with no locks, narrow, and one single channel. It is 4 miles long and eighty feet wide making it impassable by most modern ships.

The Corinth Canal

We strolled around the relics of Corinth, once an influential ancient Greek and Roman city, and then visited the seaside town of Kehreai.

Upon returning to Athens, we spent time exploring Monastiraki Square. The square was less than a six-minute walk from our hotel, and we found great Greek restaurants, shops, and a market. We found a place to change some money to Euros and bought a charge block for our phones. Taking pictures and roaming quickly depletes our phone batteries.

To put things in perspective, we arrived in Athens ahead of our travel buddies Daniel and Laura. They had been in the country for a few days and preferred exploring the countryside in a rental car. We finally caught up with them two days before the departure of our Greek cruise. Together, we visited the sites of Athens, starting with the Acropolis and Parthenon. Our hotel had a magnificent rooftop bar with amazing views, but nothing compared with fighting through the crowds to get up-close and personal.

The Acropolis

From there, we used the hop-on, hop-off bus, a great way to travel from site to site. We visited many archaeological sites and museums. Our first stop was the Temple of Zeus and the National Gardens. We then went to the National Archeological Museum. Time was getting the best of us, and we wanted to see more ruins, so we continued to the Ancient Agora (market), Hadrian’s Library, and the Temple of Hephaistos. We wrapped up our day with dinner at an amazing seafood restaurant, then a photo opportunity at the rooftop bar of our hotel.

We had breakfast together on our last day in Athens before parting ways. Daniel and Laura adventured in the morning while Jen and I packed and went for early boarding on the Norwegian Pearl. We reconnected later on the ship. They shared some great pictures from the morning.

When traveling with friends, everyone chooses what they want to see and do. We took numerous tours while Daniel and Laura took other excursions. We seldom went on the same adventures. Jen and I continued to explore archeological sites throughout Greece and beyond. The Norwegian Pearl moved us seamlessly from port to port.

The Norwegian Pearl

Our first port was Santorini. It is said that Santorini has more churches than houses, donkeys than people, and wine than water.

We visited Akrotiri, one of the 10 top Archaeological sites in the world, and learned about the prehistoric city, also known as the Pompei of the Aegean. The Theran eruption of approximately 1627 B.C. destroyed this unique Minoan settlement, and Spyridon Marinatos started the extensive excavation in 1967.

The nearly thirty-five centuries-old city still preserves many remains of its fine frescoes, everyday objects, and artwork because the volcanic ash protected them from the elements. At the time of the eruption, the city had reached great development and prosperity, with an elaborate drainage system and sophisticated multistoried buildings. Among other things, Akrotiri has been suggested to be the inspiration for Plato’s story of Atlantis.

The unique archeological site is completely under cover to protect it from the elements as the archeologists work to uncover its well-preserved treasures.

Following our visit to Akrotiri, we stopped at an impressive winery to taste Santorini’s famous wines, enjoy the magnificent view, and relax in its peaceful environment. Jen and I felt that the views were much better than the wine. Others in our group loved the wine. My take on it is that you shouldn’t go to Greece for the wine.

Our final destination was Fira, the cosmopolitan capital and one of Greece’s most famous and picturesque places. We had time to admire the white houses built on the crater’s slopes and explore the narrow paths before taking the cable car and the tender back to the ship.

On the second day, the ship docked in Mykonos. We took a great 3-D tour of Delos. To reach the ruins, we boarded a smaller boat and cruised to the nearby sacred island of Delos. We viewed a wealth of ruins using an electronic tablet with augmented-reality software that showed the structures as they appeared in ancient times.

According to Greek mythology, Apollo and his twin sister Artemis were born in Delos and first settled in the third millennium B.C. Archaeological discoveries excavated here have been deemed so indicative of an ancient cosmopolitan port that the island is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

All of the structures on Delos are excavated ruins, except for the museum and a few buildings for personnel. The landscape remains largely unaltered since ancient times because a town was never built over the original port, a rarity few other archaeological sites share.

As we meandered through the rather barren island, we saw ruins that included temples, statues, mosaic floors, and roads, such as the Sacred Way, which leads to the Sanctuary of Apollo. Another highlight is the Terrace of Lions, named for the Naxian marble lions that guard it. The originals are in the island’s museum to protect them from the elements.

The electronic tablet with 3D augmented reality software enhanced our understanding and enjoyment of the ruins. We pointed the tablet’s camera at a ruin and could view the structure as it originally stood centuries ago.

It is believed that the population of this port was poisoned by pirates, leaving the site untouched for thousands of years before being discovered.

The cruise was port heavy. We stopped at a different site nearly every day. On the third day, we tendered ashore in Zakynthos for a captivating tour, introducing us to Zakynthos Town, the island’s oldest monastery and a traditional island village. We began with a guided tour of Zakynthos Town, sometimes called the Venice of the South. We saw the expansive square named after Dionysios Solomos, the revered poet who wrote Greece’s national anthem, and continued past splendid landmarks. The Byzantine Museum and the Church of Saint Nicholas were amazing.

We then went to the village of Bochali, located below a Venetian fortress, and appreciated sweeping views of Zakynthos Town and the sparkling Ionian Sea. At the 14th-century Monastery of Anafonitria, we learned that Saint Dionysios, Zakynthos’ patron saint, served as the monastery’s abbot for most of his life. We viewed colorful 15th-century frescoes uncovered during the monastery’s painstaking renovation.

In the traditional mountain village of Volimes, we were taken to a modern olive press. The tour explained how olives are prepared and crushed for olive oil. The press has been family-owned for over 100 years, and past equipment was displayed, showing the business’s innovation over the years. The tour ended with a stroll along the city’s main shopping area.

On the fourth day, the ship docked in Corfu, where we indulged in a 4×4 excursion. We enjoyed the fun and adventure of Corfu’s countryside while traveling over stony trails through the olive groves. We caught glimpses of the sparkling Ionian Sea and beautiful green hills and saw many locals’ traditional way of life. Our guide led us up the main coastal road to the island’s northeast. We then took small country roads to quaint villages, stopping at the most charming and oldest on the island to take in the views.

We went uphill on a narrow, winding road that zigzagged to Sokraki, where we stopped to admire one of the most fantastic panoramic views. Continuing on a dusty road, we arrived at Troumbetta. We passed through other picturesque sites before stopping at Bella Vista to enjoy more spectacular views while enjoying refreshments and Greek snacks. We found it difficult to decide which village was the most appealing.

We also visited a traditional Koum Kouat distillery. The Koum Kouat citrus fruit, which only grows in Corfu, is made into one of the island’s most famous products: a liqueur with the same name and fruit-preserved sweets. We viewed a small exhibition of antique distillery equipment, sampled the produce, and purchased a bottle of the local liquor.

Jen and I toured Lapad Bay & Old Town on our next cruise stop. We enjoyed the panoramic views of Dubrovnik while riding through the hilly Lapad Peninsula. At a bay on the peninsula’s western shore, we stopped for a short walk to the Sunset Beach Club. It was an ideal setting to linger over a drink and enjoy the sweeping views of the sparsely populated Elaphiti islands. Afterward, we visited Dubrovnik’s medieval Old Town, which UNESCO deemed a World Heritage site for its extraordinary architecture. As we walked along the main street, the Stradun, we saw Saint Savior Church, the polygonal Fountain of Onofrio, and the Old Pharmacy, founded in 1317. The defensive stone walls surrounding Old Town were built in the 13th century.

The next day, we tendered ashore in Kotor, Montenegro, for a highlights & cable car adventure. We viewed Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm from several characteristic locales, ending with a cable car ride from the summit of Kuk Hill. During the descent, we gazed out over Kotor, its namesake bay, and the surrounding mountains. The terrain was so striking that when playwright George Bernard Shaw visited, he famously quipped from nearby Mount Lovćen, “Am I in paradise or Montenegro’s coastal beauty and rural charm on the moon?” The vistas were just as memorable as we traveled through Lovćen National Park to Cetinje, once the royal capital of Montenegro. Founded in the 15th century, it was a lovely setting for our lunch as it lies in a green bowl at the foot of Mount Lovćen. Our next stop was in Budva, a medieval port that inspired the English poet Lord Bryon. He described it as “the most beautiful meeting of land and sea” and we discovered it still is.

The ship docked the following day at Split, where we toured Split Old Town and Trogir Medieval City, taking advantage of a rare opportunity to visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the same day. We discovered the treasures of Trogir and saw how the Romans influenced the old city of Split. The medieval city of Trogir boasted architectural treasures of beautiful stone houses, palaces, churches, monasteries, towers, and walls. The entire town was like an open-air museum, so strolling through its narrow streets was an unforgettable experience.

We visited the main attraction in Trogir, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, probably the finest example of sacred architecture in Croatia. The unusual construction with three naves and three apses dominates the entire town. The main portal carved by local artist Radovan in the 13th century is world famous. We also saw the Town Loggi, Town Hall, and Cipiko Palace. Afterward, we had some free time to explore on our own.

The old town of Split is built on and around the massive palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian. It represents the most important example of Roman architecture on the Adriatic. Our tour started in the cellars, which are very well preserved. We saw the Cathedral of St. Duje, considered one of the world’s oldest Catholic cathedrals that retains its original structure. We also saw the Golden Gate, the Silver Gate, and the Peristyle Square.

Our Greek Island-hopping cruise reached its final port at Ravenna, Italy. We did not go ashore due to a tropical bora. The bora is a northerly to northeasterly katabatic wind in areas near the Adriatic Sea. Similar nomenclature is used for north-eastern winds in other coastal areas of the eastern Mediterranean and Black Sea basins. I copied and pasted this description from Wikipedia.

A Bora

We disembarked the Pearl nearly twelve hours later than expected after bidding a fond farewell to the crew, who showed us a magnificent cruise. The bora had left our ship floating in the Mediterranean, awaiting disembarkation. We took a shuttle from the port of Trieste to our hotel near the airport in Venice. Time, logistics, and late arrival gave us little time in Venice. We missed our adventure there but took the evening to enjoy a great Italian meal and relax in our 17th-century hotel. The hotel has been in the same family for centuries and President Reagan was a guest there (see the photo below). Venice was deluged with rain and wind.

Our return to Panama barely allowed us to do the laundry before leaving for Washington D.C., Bethesda, and Annapolis, Maryland. Jen and I flew to Baltimore, Maryland, a few days before Jen’s younger brother’s wedding. We spent two days in Washington, D.C. I had never been there, and it was an excellent opportunity to see our nation’s capital.

The photos below are randomly ordered and don’t do our visit justice. During the two days there, we visited The White House, the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial, The Vietnam War Memorial, The FBI, The Supreme Court, The Library of Congress, The US Capitol, and more. We walked what seemed to be a thousand miles. Our Congressman, Greg Stube, arranged for a private tour of the Capitol with one of his aids. That was a highlight of our visit. I particularly enjoyed the Library of Congress, while Jen enjoyed The Supreme Court. Background checks were required for The White House and FBI tours, making prior planning a must. Jen had the whole thing arranged and scheduled in advance.

It was a beautiful Saturday at the Naval Academy in Annapolis for Jon and Karine’s wedding. The ceremony was beautiful, and we were pleased to welcome Karine into the family and pray for special blessings for their happiness. The pictures below are some I captured walking into the chapel, where no pictures were allowed, and one of Jon, Karine, and Jon’s boys in the superintendent’s garden. The other is Jon and Karine cutting the cake.

Cutting the Wedding Cake

After the wedding, Jen returned to Panama while I flew to Florida.  As many of you know, Dad’s wife, Renee, passed away just before our trip to Greece. I could spend ten days with him before I returned to Panama. My time in Florida was eye-opening. The first picture below is from three years ago. It’s from Gilcrest Park last Monday. I returned to the same location to take pictures while I was there. The devastation in the park was awful. Hurricane Helene created a storm surge, depositing two boats in the park. After Hurricane Milton, I counted almost sixteen boats in the park, pickleball courts, and across the street. The takeaway here is the power of the storm surge. My family and I had no significant damage from the storm, but as I visited with my dad for more than a week, the devastation was heartbreaking. There were hundreds of homes with all their furniture out by the street. Dumpsters in driveways collected drywall and carpets from flooded homes.

We returned to Florida late in November for Renee’s memorial. The Celebration of Life was the beautiful tribute she certainly deserved.
While in Florida, I was invited to speak at her book club. Several group members approached me at her Celebration of Life and asked that I join them for their regular monthly meeting. Many showed up with copies of Murder in Eagle Cove and asked that I sign them. Members of the group bought every copy I had with me. They added it to their current reading list, and we discussed where the series will go from the end of the first book. They are superfans, and I loved every minute of it. They are as anxious for the second in the series as I am. I’m working to have a mini launch and book signing in Punta Gorda, Florida, in May, along with a book signing tour from Florida to Boston, where the series takes place.
The Punta Gorda Book Club

We got our condo in Port Charlotte ready for our snowbird tenants before departing. Our plans for the last big adventure of the year were tweaked just a little for Renee’s memorial.

We drove to Miami, returned our rental car, and overnighted before boarding the Norwegian Joy.

Norwegian Joy

Our first port was in Cozumel, Mexico. Admittedly, this is someplace we’d been before, but how can you not love the adventuring experience there? We enjoyed a unique excursion, Cozumel by Land & Sea. It combined an insider’s view of local chocolate and tequila production as a postlude for exploring the wonders underwater in a semi-submersible. At the Mayan Cacao Company, we saw how chocolate is made from cacao. This process dates back to the ancient Mayans, who drank chocolate for ceremonial and medicinal purposes as far back as 500 BC. After sampling some creamy (and exceptionally yummy) chocolate, we proceeded to a tequila-tasting seminar for a tasting that presented the historical and cultural importance of tequila on the Yucatan peninsula.

A different perspective of Cozumel awaited us just offshore on Paradise Reef, where we explored the underwater world in a semi-submersible way. Although the vessel’s viewing windows were only a few feet below the water’s surface, the sights were extraordinary. We saw a riot of brilliantly colored fish and coral reefs.

Our second port was in Harvest Caye, Belize. This was another of the places we have yet to have the opportunity to explore. It was on the list of possible retirement destinations before choosing Panama. Our ship was the only one in port, making it an easy, laid-back stop. Jen and I enjoyed Rainforest River Tubing. There was a genuine feel for rural life while we drove through the densely forested countryside to Maya World Outpost, the starting point for our adventure. After a short briefing to help maximize the tubing experience, we eased into the refreshing but cold river, and the current carried us downstream. Floating down the slow-moving river on an inner tube, we took in the spectacular rainforest scenery while listening to the ambient sounds of the jungle. Mountain springs feed the river, so the water is crystal-clear. Along the way, we passed through a picturesque mountain gorge over a series of small rapids and under overhanging trees, keeping us primarily in the shade. The ever-changing scenery added to the excitement and made the trip memorable. We heard and saw squawking tropical birds abundant in the protected rainforest.

A Mayan Statue at the entrance of Maya World Outpost.

Next, we made port in Costa Maya, Mexico. We didn’t plan any excursions there as we’d visited before. We decided instead to remain aboard the ship and enjoy the incredible offerings. We opted to add the adults-only area, Vibe Club, to our package on this cruise. We loved the special adult-only atmosphere and enjoyed the hot tub and high-end bar. Taking a cruise is only sometimes about the amazing ports and adventures. We could kick back and relax while someone else did the cooking, laundry, and housekeeping. The bars and restaurants aboard the Norwegian ship did an excellent job keeping us fed and hydrated. Thanksgiving dinner was prime rib, soup, vegetables, and pumpkin cheesecake. We could have selected turkey and all the fixings, but why when the prime rib is on the menu? Another great benefit of a cruise vacation is the awesome shows…we had the Beetles on board. There were also comics and multiple talented entertainers rounding out the long list of entertainment.

Our delightful cruise continued to Roatan, Honduras, where we made port on Thursday. Roatan was another consideration for our retirement strategy. We have friends in Panama who nearly opted for this beautiful island offshore from Honduras. We could see why. It’s full of English-speaking expats, and the near-perfect tropical Caribbean climate was amazing.

Jen is hooked on ATV adventures. She booked us on an amazing adventure through the rainforest and mangroves. The adventure began in the village of Politilly Bight, where we hopped on ATVs and raced off caravan-style, following the guide into the surrounding wilderness. We saw the natural beauty that abounds in the island’s more remote regions, riding the ATV through a tropical rainforest. The recent rain and natural trails with potholes had mud flying, making driving all the more fun and our shoes and clothes dirty. After a brief stop at a traditional Garifuna village, we were transferred to Oak Ridge, the island’s oldest fishing community. From there, we cruised along the mangrove-lined shores of southern Roatan. Mangrove forests line the banks almost everywhere and often create tunnels in the tree canopy that our boat easily navigated through. Besides being environmentally beneficial, mangroves shelter many animals, especially water birds such as green herons and roseate spoonbills.

We concluded the cruise in Miami. With another great adventure in the rearview mirror, we departed the Port of Miami by coach with a knowledgeable guide for a one-hour drive to Everglades National Park. This world-renowned eco-system covers about 5,000 square miles and is home to most of Florida’s alligators, snakes, black bears, wild pigs, over two hundred species of birds, including herons, egrets, white ibis, anhingas, roseate spoonbills, wood storks, ospreys, hawks, vultures, eagles and more, plus the endangered and nocturnal Florida Panther – less than 100 remaining in the wild.

We boarded our airboat for a thirty-minute exhilarating ride over the “River of Grass,” where we encountered several different creatures. After the airboat ride, we enjoyed an alligator show and various crocodilian exhibits. We then had time to visit the souvenir shop. On the drive back to the city, our guide gave us great insight into the two Florida tribes of Native American Indians.

Our Miami adventure continued with a sightseeing and millionaire boat tour. We started at South Beach in the Art Deco History District. After South Beach, we explored the Wynwood Art District before moving on to Little Havana. The guide had our driver take us through Coconut Grove, Miami’s oldest and most prestigious neighborhood. At the Bayside Marketplace, we had lunch before boarding the Millionaire’s Cruise. The guide pointed out celebrity homes and offered fun facts. It went by so fast that all the homes photographed were not identified.

Our day ended at Superblue Miami, where Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s interactive artwork was presented in an amazing new sound and light installation by Studio Lemercier. Each room of the Superblue exhibit was a different experience. One room was full of bubbles falling from the ceiling, one had mirrors and lights, and another was a laser light experience.

After two full days of exploring Miami, we caught a flight with 20 other adventure seekers to Cuba. I stated earlier that the pinnacle of our adventures in 2024 was my Writer’s retreat in Greece. If you haven’t yet read our blog post from Cuba, it’s worth your time. I was blown away by the history, culture, and people there. You can use the link above or on the sidebar to access it.

I couldn’t conclude this post without talking about a few other significant things. I was invited to speak at several events and participated in some podcasts. My interview with Retire There is due to be published shortly.

Watch my newsletter for information about that as it becomes available. I had a great interview with Melissa Darnay from Choose Panama about our retirement, my writing, and life in Panama. That interview was posted to her website and nationwide on every platform where people enjoy great podcasts. My interview with Melissa is available here.

I talked earlier about Renee Johnson’s death. We also lost one of our dearest friends here in Panama, Barbara Munn. Barb and Renee were both instrumental in the writing of my first novel and advised me on the second before they passed. Jen and I are sad at the loss of these beautiful women. May they both rest in eternal peace.

We’re home in Panama, and it’s just a few days until Christmas. We anxiously await the miracle of the newborn Christ Jesus. We will be celebrating with our church family and fellowshipping on Christmas Eve. On Christmas day, we will be having a small dinner party with a few of our most special friends. Panama has provided Jen and me with special friendships that will last a lifetime.

The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events. Of course, if you’re not subscribed to receive this blog in your inbox, check the sidebar for the link to subscribe. I never share my subscriber list, and I never send spam. Your privacy is highly respected.

Have a blessed New Year,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Our Great Cuba Adventure

Last week, Jen and I had the amazing opportunity to spend time in Havana, Cuba. I captured the photo above from the 1951 Chevy convertible we took to dinner on Tuesday night. No words can describe Cuba. I am committed to carefully chronicling our experience to share what we found there. This post may be political. The politics of socialist and communist governments benefit only the elite leaders. It was heartbreaking to witness the extreme poverty of the people. The government controls everything from how often people get gasoline to the power grid to property ownership.

Photo by Michelle Price

We arrived on Monday afternoon at Jose Marti International Airport in Havana, Cuba. We joined a small group of excited adventurers from Friendly Planet to explore Cuba on their Havana Express tour.  We found the airport clean and efficient. Terminal 3 seemed like the only terminal. It is the international terminal welcoming flights from the United States. Havana is Cuba’s capital city, and Old Havana is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our tour guide, Lazaro, met us at the airport with a Friendly Planet sign outside the arrival terminal.

We ultimately learned that Lazaro is a professor of Cuban history at the university. He was an expert on Cuba, providing us with great insight. Our tour itinerary was only a guideline, and we saw things we never expected. Each time one of the visitors expressed an interest in something, he tried to fit it into the agenda. The government carefully monitors tours and visitors; at times, we were told we couldn’t go there or take pictures of that.

We boarded a vehicle driven by our capable driver, Ricardo, the entire visit. He navigated the narrow streets and kept each of us comfortable. We always felt comfortable with the surroundings, leaving our belongings on the bus while we toured. The bus was airconditioned and had adequate space for the twenty of us. It was nearly 35-40 minutes’ drive to The Casa, our accommodation for the entire visit.

Our driver, Ricardo.
Our driver, Ricardo.

On the drive, Lazaro began orienting us to the surroundings of our home for the next few days. It had a school across the street. We were warned not to engage the children. We knew in advance we would not be able to give them anything. It was heartbreaking to notice the extreme poverty in the neighborhood. Despite everything, it was very safe. Our bags were unloaded upon arrival, and we went inside for room assignments. We met our house hosts. Jose and Ray each worked long opposing shifts, leaving one always available to answer questions, request transportation, or attend to any needs of their guests. Both spoke perfect English. We also had a housekeeper and cook. Breakfast was served each morning.

Each afternoon, when we returned to our room, the housekeeper had left us a nice message.

After we were settled into our room, we walked with some of our fellow adventurers to the end of the block, where the street ended at the ocean. There was a wall with the waves crashing. Each person we encountered on our walk was welcoming and kind. One storefront had a long line of people we later learned were waiting for their monthly ration of rice and beans.

In Cuba, everything is owned by the government except a few privately owned businesses or enterprises. We learned that a private business turns over half its net earnings to the government. I’ll make sure to talk more about that later. Most of our tours were centered in privately owned businesses. Our dinner on Monday night was at a privately owned restaurant called a paladar.

We walked about six blocks in the dark, active neighborhood with Lazaro to Cafe Miglis. The converted home was beautiful, and the food was delicious. Our host, Miglis, lived upstairs and welcomed us into his restaurant and was happy to give us a tour of his living quarters upstairs after our meal. Each person has stories to share, and he shared his immigration to Cuba from Sweden in the 50s. He was an award-winning filmmaker invited to the country to make some films and chose to stay. He married a Cuban woman and settled into his current home. He and his staff treated us like royalty.

On Tuesday, we had breakfast before Lazaro took us to Revolution Square and then on a leisurely walk through the labyrinthian streets of Old Havana. We immersed ourselves in the vibrant colors of Cuba while walking along the narrow streets and exploring the four beautiful plazas of the Old City—Plaza de Armas, Plaza San Francisco, Plaza Vieja, and Plaza de la Catedral—each a historic and architectural gem.

Revolution Tower
Revolution Tower

On the bus ride, Lazaro pointed out the new American Embassy established during the Obama administration. It is in what was called New Havana. When we reached Old Havana, we then understood some dynamics. Almost all of Old Havana is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The former American Embassy lies in the center of this area. Then President Obama wanted to reoccupy the old embassy building. His request was denied because the required renovations would cause Cuba to lose the UNESCO designation for the area, as a majority of the area would have to be blocked off for the  security for the embassy. This stunning area is adjacent to the port and contained within a wall built to protect it from pirate attacks in the 1500s.

After walking the charming squares and getting filled with history and interesting facts about the statues and architecture, Lazaro briefed us on our lunch choices. He told us which to avoid and which were considered the best Cuban food. We separated from the group and chose a restaurant on the square. Many of us chose the same place, and our biggest problem was calculating the exchange rate between Cuban pesos and dollars. One server explained the exchange as 300 pesos per dollar, but the bill was calculated at 260 pesos per dollar. It was a small difference. We paid a premium to pay in dollars. It wasn’t very clear. The people in Cuba are pleased to accept dollars or euros but will not take a credit card from the United States. We found many places offered the price in several denominations. Jen and I took euros and dollars and paid with both. They must have nearly new bills without creases, marks, or tears.

After lunch, we met with the group at the designated time and place. Lazaro walked us several blocks to an establishment to enjoy Cuba’s music and dance world with a private dance class. Our talented and personable teachers demonstrated Cuba’s most traditional dances. We saw how important music and dancing are to life in Cuba. Afterward, they taught us some basic Salsa steps.

There was a moment during our walk through the beautiful cobblestone streets of Old Havana when Lazaro paused outside a nondescript home. He began talking about what was behind the walls of the home. It was the House of Charity and Maternity. This is a refuge for children up to 6 years old who cannot be cared for by their mothers. It was established in the early 1700s by Bishop Fray Geronimo Valdes. Over the years, he rescued children, giving them all his surname, Valdes. This accounts for the most common surname in Cuban culture. This place was particularly important to Lazaro as he had an ancestor who the charity rescued. Hence his name Lazaro Valdes.

The tour moved along at warp speed. There were times when I couldn’t pick my jaw up off the floor long enough to take pictures. Despite that, I took nearly a thousand pictures in Cuba. Our guide took us to places we never expected, and there were times when photos were not allowed. The pictures below were from an impromptu stop at the Museum of Revolution, an open-air display of vehicles and equipment from the Revolution. The boat Castro came on from Mexico was behind the glass and too far away for pictures. There were also some emergency vehicles, a military plane,  and an armored truck full of bullet holes on display. There was a military guard in uniform. Lazaro said no pictures of the guards (military) here. If the guard sees you taking pictures, he will seize your device. Too late, I snapped a few.

Directly across the street was a modern art museum. We didn’t go in.

I asked Lazaro about touring the cigar factory. He explained the government only allowed tours with special arrangements. He did get the driver to take us to the government cigar and liquor store. We were told that nothing from that store could be brought back into the United States. Almost the entire group went into the store and bought rum and cigars to consume during the visit. Our group was lively, and we partied together every night for the remainder of our time. The Cuban rum is manufactured in the plant where Bacardi started. Bacardi was sent packing after the revolution and embargo, and the government now makes rum in the plant under its own label. The Cuban rum is much better than Bacardi and is best sipped straight. We were warned about drinking the water and using ice.

The government-owned cigar store
The government-owned cigar store

A short drive from the cigar store in Marianao, outside the city center, we experienced the future of Cuban acrobatics with a meet-and-greet and show from the incredibly talented Angeles del Futuro. This community project trains children in the art of circus acrobatics. The director, coaches, volunteers, and parents all work together to provide the training, costumes, and equipment free of charge to the children and their families. It is truly a project that supports Cubans, their dreams, and the arts. We watched an example of the circus show and saw for ourselves the talent of these kids. After the show, we got to know these young acrobats themselves. We learned during the demonstration that several of the kids were award winners. Some were fostered by the director, who rescued them from abusive or neglectful homes. Their talent was incredible. They were all in their teens or younger. The facility is an old theater. The director asked the government for it, and they allowed him to take possession of it to rescue at-risk children.

The director poses with the talents performers.
The director poses with the talented performers.

The day was winding down. Our constant tour schedule was exhausting. We were on our own for dinner, and nearly nothing was out of bounds. We were given a list of approved restaurants, but using our best judgment, we could go nearly anywhere we wished. Everyone in the group asked our host at the Casa to arrange for rides in vintage convertibles. Our cost of an hour-long tour of Havana in the ’51 Chevy was $40. USD. Jen and I shared the cost with two other adventurers. Our driver picked us up in front and drove around before stopping near Revolution Square. We found several similar tours there and took pictures in and out of the old cars.

The convertibles were lined up in front of The Casa. Ours is the one in front.
The convertibles were lined up in front of The Casa. Ours is the one in front.

I chatted with the driver, who freely shared about life in Cuba. I purposely do not share his name while repeating some of his stories. You’ll be able to understand why. He explained that he was a music teacher before becoming a tour guide. His salary for teaching was approximately $100 USD per month. This did not support his family. He privately owned the car, which he had saved to purchase. He stated that he often waited more than twelve hours in line for gasoline. His gas consumption and mileage are carefully monitored to be sure he is turning over his 50% to the government. He pointed out the garbage piled in the street, stating the government doesn’t have gas for the trucks to pick it up. He pointed out the government-owned pharmacies and stores, telling us they were empty. They only provide these things to the wealthy elite, keeping the average people poor, hungry, and without medicine. When asked about clothes and toiletries, he said those things were only available on the black market. Several of our group had brought toiletries and toothbrushes for the people. Lazaro was tasked with passing these items out as we toured. We were sad about the fate of the Cuban people.

Garbage accumulates in the streets for weeks at a time.

I asked our driver to recommend a great restaurant and if he would end our tour there. I told him we would take a taxi back to The Casa. He suggested that for $10 additional, he would take us to dinner, wait for us, and return us to The Casa himself. The restaurant where he took us, in Hostal Canonazo, was amazing. The full lobster tail was their specialty for $27 USD. There was live entertainment, and the place was busy. I invited him to join us for dinner, but he wouldn’t hear of it. Other drivers were waiting outside. I’m sure he wanted to keep his magnificent car within sight. After our dinner, he drove us home. I gave him the agreed-upon fare and a generous tip. There was a tear in his eye as he hugged us and left. If I ever return to Havana, I will look up this awesome person for a tour.

The other adventurers trickled back to the Casa. We stayed up long into the night drinking rum and smoking Cuban cigars with them. Our host, Jose, joined the fun, and we got more acquainted with him and the people we were touring with. There were no pictures of the festivities. What happens in Havana stays in Havana.

Wednesday, we woke to an unplanned power outage. The government claims it doesn’t have fuel to power the electrical plants. I viewed it as control from the top down. Without power, the people do amazingly well. Lazaro said that no part of the tour would be affected. Jen and I showered by flashlight, ate breakfast, and boarded the bus on time with everyone else. Gas cooking appliances and rechargeable lighting allowed us to have a normal breakfast with everything but toast. We learned that the power outage was nationwide, and no firm restoration estimate existed.

The day began with a stop at a display of the weapons staged in Cuba by the USSR to protect the island from threats from United States President John F. Kennedy. I’d like you to please read on to see the weapons, followed by the chronology of those tense days leading up to October 1962.

The Cohete Sopka (pictured above) is a winged rocket for coastal defense against water attacks. It was meant to destroy naval groups with high-impact precision. It was built from a modified Mig-15 plane with a radio correction system for flight direction. The USSR positioned 34 of these in Mariel, Pinar del Rio province.

The Cohete P-15 (pictured above) is a jet weapons complex of the P-15 system intended to attack warships and enemy transports. The creation of these weapons affirms the importance of combat boats and missile carriers as an effective means of attack in the naval system to destroy ships, the fight against amphibious vehicles, and the protection of the coasts.

The Cohete Luna (pictured above) is a tactical ballistic rocket for ground troops. It was designed to prevent landings by air or sea. The weapon could be self-propelled from a PT-76 tank. Thirty-six of these were staged at the towns of Artemisia, Managua, and Remedios. Twenty-four had conventional loads, and 12 had nuclear warheads.

The Soviets also provided the cannons and ground artillery pictured above in case of a ground attack.

The Cohete SA-75 (pictured above) is an anti-aircraft rocket. These were positioned all over the island, configuring an anti-aircraft defense brigade.

The Cohete R-12 (pictured above) is a medium-range ballistic rocket. During the early years of the Revolution, the Soviet government positioned three regiments with 36 operational rockets, all with nuclear heads, at the ports of Bahia Honda, Mariel, and Casilda in the Pinar del Rio province.

In 1962, after the defeat at Playa Giron, the National Security Council of the United States drafted a secret program called “Operation Mongoose,” which President John F. Kennedy approved.

The expulsion of Cuba from the OAS, the increase in the economic blockade, the terrorist actions against the island, and the anti-Cuban propaganda campaigns to justify direct military aggression against Cuba were part of this program.

The mobilization of thousands of US reservists, as well as the holding of military exercises in regions near Cuba, and the history of interventionist policy in Latin America predicted a direct military attack by the United States on the island. In October of 1962, the October Crisis began, known internationally as the Crisis of the Missiles or Caribbean Crisis. This fact is considered the most dramatic and dangerous incident during the Cold War in the historical confrontation between the United States and Cuba.  Humanity was on the verge of a nuclear war, and Cuba was the scene of that conflict.

On the 9th of May 1962, a Soviet delegation visited Cuba, chaired by Sharaf Rashidov, deputy member of the CPSU Central Committee, Marshal Serguei Biriuzov, head of the strategic missile forces, and senior Soviet officers. The delegation entrusted by the president of the Council of Ministers of the Soviet Union, Nikita S. Khrushchev, proposed to the Cuban government the installation of strategic defense weapons in Cuba for the joint defense of the island against the danger of aggression.

By June, Operation Anadir involved the mobilization of Soviet troops and preparations to ship war materials. The contingents of Soviet soldiers numbered around 43,000 troops. They included the Strategic Rocket Troops, Air Force, Anti-Aircraft Defense Troops, Land Troops, Navy, and other assurances. Such an operation had never been carried out in the history of the Soviet Union. In addition, plans were carried out to mask and conceal the activities to be carried out and disinformation. According to the agreement, the military units of each country were under the command of their respective governments, coordinating the use of their corresponding forces to repel the aggression.

On July 3rd, the FAR Minister, Commander Raul Castro Ruz, traveled to Moscow and held talks with Khrushchev to discuss details of the Military Agreement that would be signed and published in November 1962. The Cuban Directorate, in correspondence with the sentiment of solidarity with the USSR and the socialist camp, accepted the agreement. This would improve the correlation of the forces between the two major powers and contribute to Cuba’s defense against the danger of aggression, per the principles of International Law.

The transfer of weapons to Cuba began on the 12th of July. Eighty-five boats were used, making 185 voyages to deliver the weapons to Cuban territory. The entire process was done in secret.

During August through October 1962 the arrival and deployment of the Soviet weapons was carried out. They installed medium and intermediate-range nuclear rockets and IL-28 bombers. Thirty-six combat rockets and 9 Luna rockets were brought into Cuba, all with nuclear warheads. There were 45 total nuclear warheads installed in the country.

On October 14th, the United States detected and photographed the Soviet rocket emplacements from U-2 planes near San Cristobal, Pinar del Rio. This constituted a great danger as it gave the United States an advantage, which could carry out a surprise attack on the installations. Kennedy ordered increased reconnaissance flights over the island.

Eight days later, Kennedy, using evidence of the presence of nuclear weapons as a pretext, began the naval blockade against Cuba. To make it effective, it included 238 ships, eight aircraft carriers, two cruisers, 118 destroyers, 13 submarines, 65 amphibious ships, and 32 auxiliary ships. The troops at Guantanamo Naval Base were increased from 8,000 to 16,000 men. At 5:40 in the afternoon, Commander in Chief Fidel Castro gave the order of Combat Alarm in a television appearance. Cuba deployed 270,000 combatants in the regular military and 150,000 in popular defense. There were 54 infantry divisions, six reactive artillery groups, a tank brigade, three independent 120mm mortar groups, 20 Naval units, 118 anti-aircraft artillery batteries, and 47 aircraft.

On October 23rd, faced with interfering statements from Kennedy, Khrushchev sent a letter to Fidel Castro in which he condemned the “picaresque” actions of the US government, considering them “aggressive” and a provocative act against the Soviet Union. He expressed his firm conviction of Cuba’s right to defend itself according to the norms of international law and the Soviet Union’s unconditional support for the Cuban Revolution and its willingness to defend it.

Later on the 23rd, Castro appeared on Cuban television, responding to Kennedy’s aggressive speech and informing the people of the serious situation. He expressed that Cuba would resist the imperialist blockade, would not disarm, and would calmly face the nuclear threat.

On October 25th, the Secretary General of the United Nations addressed the governments of the Soviet Union and the United States to avoid a confrontation between the two powers. The Soviet government responded positively by moving its ships away from the area, while the United States continued its threatening and arrogant tone. Kennedy ordered an increase in low-flying flights over Cuban Soil to 12 times daily.

On October 26th, Castro sent a letter to Khrushchev, in which he warned of the imminence of a United States invasion of Cuba and the Cuban decision to confront it. That day, the Soviet premier sent a message to his American counterpart, proposing a peaceful solution to the conflict based on the withdrawal of the projectiles in exchange for not invading Cuba.

On October 27th, Castro expressed to the UN Secretary-General, U Thant, his willingness to dialogue to solve the crisis as long as the United States stopped its threats, aggressive actions, and naval blockade of Cuba. That same day, US warplanes violated Cuban airspace, and anti-aircraft batteries opened fire on them in compliance with Cuba’s legitimate right to its defense. The U-2 spy plane was shot down by a Soviet rocket group stationed in the municipality of Banes, former Oriente province. The pilot, Major Rudolf Anders, was killed.

On October 30th and 31st, talks took place between a UN delegation and Cuban authorities at the Presidential Palace. The decision was made that Cuba had the right to defend its sovereignty. After the talks, the withdrawal of strategic defensive weapons began without the Cuban Revolutionary government creating any obstacles to the Soviet withdrawal.

I found the visit to this place very interesting. I took most of the content for this portion of the post from a chronology on display at the exhibit. It should be noted here that these weapons are all disarmed. Our guide stated that the remains of the pilot were never requested to be returned by the US government. To do so, they would have to admit to violating Cuba’s airspace. It is unbelievable to finally understand how close we were to nuclear war in 1962.

 We continued to Guanabacoa to tour Vista Hermosa, a 100% organic, eco-friendly, sustainable urban farm. We learned about their specialization in growing seasonal fruits and vegetables and producing milk and cheese with free-range livestock. We enjoyed a farm-to-table lunch with homemade artisanal meats, cheeses, and local fruits and vegetables. The traditional Cuban desserts were amazing!

Later, we ventured out to Finca Vigía, Hemingway’s old home, which is now a museum that independent organizations support. Hemmingway bought the home and 16 acres in 1945 for $17,000 USD. It still contains the largest private collection of books and magazines in Cuba. This is where he wrote Old Man and the Sea and For Whom the Bell Tolls. There is also a priceless Picasso etching hanging in his study. This stop was a highlight for me as an author.

During the Obama administration, Michelle Obama toured here, and modifications were made to the entrance for Secret Service access. We were not allowed inside, but the windows and doors were opened wide. As we walked the perimeter of the house, and interacted with local caretakers to learn more about the life of Hemingway. We peered through the windows to see how it was kept when he lived there. The walls are lined with bookshelves and paintings, some depicting Hemingway on his African safaris. The heads of many of the animals he encountered are also mounted in several rooms. In the bathroom, we could see the writing on the wall above his scale, where he obsessively recorded his weight. Continuing around the home, we saw the adjacent tower where he did much of his writing and saw his typewriter. He built this tower after purchasing the house. A short walk down the hill was where we found the pool, pet cemetery, and his boat.

Another heartbreak was the deferred maintenance of Hemmingway’s home. Lazaro explained that the benefactors supporting the museum could not provide the funds necessary to maintain this treasure in Cuba in the way it deserved.

We visited a market on the street during our ride back to The Casa for a short rest before our farewell dinner. Lazaro had planned a stop at the big artisan market, but we found it closed due to the power outage. Despite the setback, many of us found trinkets to return home with. We learned that the power was being slowly restored across the country in phases. With no power, schools and many businesses were closed. It was a relief that there was power at the Casa when we arrived.

Our farewell dinner involved a drink-making and cooking demonstration. We learned the secrets of the Cuban kitchen while participating in a traditional Cuban cooking class experience! We got tasteful insights into Cuban culture as we went hands-on to prepare a meal with locals. It all started with the bartender directing us to make our own Mojito. The Mojito is the national drink of Cuba made famous by Hemmingway. We learned from experienced chefs as they took us through making some of Cuba’s most delicious traditional food, such as fried taro root (frituras de malanga) served with ginger, honey, or mustard. Next, we saw the steps of making stuffed plantains (tostones) with chard and pepper.

Following the demonstrations, we enjoyed a classic Cuban main dish of shredded meat (ropa vieja), salad, rice, beans, and vegetables. The meal concluded with a delicious local dessert.

Dayron Robles and his wife owned the delightful restaurant where we celebrated our farewell dinner. He is a Cuban track and field athlete specializing in the 110-meter hurdles. He won his first major medal (a silver) in the 60-meter hurdles at the 2006 World Indoor Championships. He finished the 2006 season, improved his outdoor best to 13 seconds, and became the Central American and Caribbean Games champion. Pan American gold came the following year, which also set a meet record of 12.92 seconds at the 2007 IAAF World Athletics Final – making him the joint fourth fastest ever.

He reached the pinnacle of his event in 2008 by setting a world record of 12.87 seconds in June at the Golden Spike Ostrava meet, and winning an Olympic gold medal at the 2008 Beijing Olympics in 12.93 seconds. Injury ruled him out for much of 2009, but he returned strongly with a championship record win at the 2010 IAAF World Indoor Championships.

Dayron Robles
Dayron Robles

When we arrived at the restaurant, they were still without power. The demonstration and meal went forward with gas cooking and battery-operated lighting. About halfway through our meal, the power came back on to a cheer of delight from the adventurers and staff. I deduced that the worst part of extended power outages was the lack of refrigeration. Some of our fellow travelers began becoming sick. Jen and I were spared the food poisoning, but both experienced intestinal difficulties by the time we reached home. Food handling without electricity is poor at best. Even without electricity, our tour never stopped.

We enjoyed a delightful breakfast on Thursday before being shuttled to the airport for the flight home. The boarding gate in terminal 3 was clean and comfortable. A few of our fellow adventurers even found treasured souvenirs in the airport shops.

I couldn’t conclude this post without sharing other thoughts, observations, gratitude, and random photos. One notable observation was that we never saw a uniformed cop or police vehicle. When asked about it, we were told they were everywhere in plain sight. People committing crimes or making inflammatory statements against the government are quickly arrested. I want to thank Michelle Price and Julie Delio for the photos. I also shamelessly used Google and Wikipedia for help finetuning the content. Third, I want to thank our hosts, Raysel Echevarria and Jose Vega, without whom the adventure would never have been the same. Our guide, Lazaro Valdes, was awesome. I hope the great information he shared with us shines through this post and I have correctly chronicled everything. Some of the photos may have needed to be better identified. I was overwhelmed. The photos below are just a few that didn’t find a place in the post above.

You cannot imagine the hours of work that go into publishing a work of this magnitude. I appreciate all of you for appreciating it. I love having the journal of our trip. When asked if we would visit again, I said yes without hesitation. I already have a good friend who wants to make the trip. If visiting Cuba is on your bucket list, do it. It’s worth the extra trouble and special visa.

The blog posts have become less frequent recently because we’ve been busy traveling and doing a little work. I am trying to finish book 2 of the Detective Larry Saunders Series, Mayhem in Eagle Cove. I still publish the Retired in Panama Newsletter every Monday. If you aren’t subscribed, do it now. It’s FREE. That’s the best way to stay dialed in on the launch date, sneak peeks, and special events.

I was so anxious to share the Cuba trip that I blogged ahead of other adventures to make sure the details were fresh in my mind. I am committed to sharing a Retired in Panama Review of 2024 in the next few weeks with special details of our adventure in Greece, my writing retreat with Jonas Saul, cruise adventures, and other year-end news.

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Victoria’s Panama Adventure

Jen and I have four grandchildren, and we have told them that we will bring them for a visit to Panama between their junior and senior years of high school. The first of these was our oldest granddaughter, Victoria. Kids back in our day made scrapbooks of their adventures, but kids today are all about electronics. I am compiling this blog post chronicling Victoria’s awesome Panama adventures to share with her and our readers. I took nearly a thousand pictures in the ten days she was here. I will share the best of her adventure pictures and many amazing things we did during her visit.

Victoria Kavos

The first phase of her adventure involved traveling from her home in Alabama to the Atlanta International Airport. There, she boarded her nonstop Copa flight to Panama City. We were able to upgrade her to a business-class seat. We met her at the arrival area of Tocumen International Airport, where she got her first glimpse of life in Panama. It should come as no surprise that the primary language in Panama is Spanish, and it is sometimes difficult to find people who speak English. She went easily through immigration but had difficulty at customs. Because she is under 18, completion of the customs declaration is not required. However, the customs agent forced her to complete it before passing. If minors travel alone to Panama, I suggest they complete the form ahead and have it available. Victoria was stressed enough without having to communicate with a customs agent who did not know her job or speak any English.

Because of her late evening arrival, we stayed in Panama City overnight. We checked into the hotel directly across from the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal. Wednesday was her first full day of adventuring in Panama. We arranged for our good friend, Marc Vargas, to be our guide for the day.

We spent the entire day Wednesday exploring the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal, Monkey Islands, and the Mercado de Mariscos (fresh fish market). The canal tour was perfect, and we saw big ships passing through the locks at Miraflores, watched the 3-D movie about the canal, and took some great pictures. It was nice to have Marc’s wife, Keren, join us for the day. She’s a flight attendant for Copa and had the day off. She later talked to some of her colleagues, one of which met Victoria on her flight home. “Oh, you must be Keren’s friend,” she said. Victoria had great service from the entire flight crew on her return flight despite us not getting her an upgrade.

After the Panama Canal, we traveled to Lake Gatun and boarded a panga bound for Monkey Islands. The trip to the islands where the monkeys live is as much an adventure as seeing the monkeys. Lake Gatun is the widest portion of the canal, and we passed ships transiting on our journey. Lake Gatun is a manmade lake formed by dams and flooding the high-elevation land in the mountains. The small islands in it are what were once the tops of mountains. The continental divide passes through the middle of the lake. The day was a bit rainy but not enough to dampen spirits. At least no human spirits. The monkeys did not come down to our boat but we did see dozens of them. They wouldn’t even come from their dry perches in the jungle trees to get a banana.

After our monkey adventure, we traveled into Panama City to see the Mercado de Mariscos and have lunch. Marc is a master at finding the best places to park. He got us both great parking spaces in a lot just across the footbridge from the market. Keren checked earlier and spoke with someone at the market about purchasing scallops. We were on a mission to buy scallops for ceviche. She was told there was some, but we didn’t find it, so we purchased fresh shrimp cleaned and deveined for $5 per pound instead. Victoria and I were planning to make a trial run of ceviche for the Panama Fonda Cookbook that I will be publishing later this year. Every recipe must be tried and tested. We tested several during her visit. She is a great cook and loved working with me to test the recipes.

After taking in the market, we went to the back, where over fifty sidewalk restaurants serve the best seafood on the planet. We were seated at Marc’s favorite, and we all ordered food and drinks. We had a delightful meal and bid Marc and Keren farewell, with plenty of time to reach Coronado before dark.

We regularly volunteer at Word of Life Camp in Chame during camp season. While Victoria was here, Word of Life was holding an English-speaking camp, so we took her there for a morning of preparation for the day’s meals. She was a great help, and we were able to give her a tour of the campgrounds and see some of the activities taking place. On our way to our volunteer position at the camp, we stopped for Victoria’s first fonda experience. The dictionary defines fonda as an American actor. In Panama, a fonda is a small roadside restaurant offering Panamanian food. I often tell people that fonda means “cheap food.” These small open-air restaurants are usually only open for breakfast and lunch. They are known for low prices and authentic Panamanian food. The establishments usually prepare their offering early in the morning, and when it’s gone, they close. Finding a cheap meal that we do not have to prepare ourselves has always been high on our list of importance. It was important for Victoria to experience dining in a fonda before we attempted to test-fly the recipes for the Panama Fonda Cookbook.

We worked together to make shrimp ceviche over the weekend and had visitors, Lorin and Judy, come for the taste test.

Pink Shrimp Ceviche was a big NO for the cookbook.  

Unfortunately, the ceviche recipe did not make the cut. It got poor scores, so we reopened the search for the perfect recipe to put in the recipe book. We made the Sancocho recipe another day and invited our good friends, Randy and Cyndi, to come for the Sancocho taste test.

Panama’s National Food Sancocho

Five thumbs up guaranteed it a place in the recipe book. Another day, we made a batch of hojaldres for breakfast, and the three of us ate the whole batch. They were yummy. We had some yucca left from the Sancocho recipe, so we cut it up and made cassava fries. That recipe will also be in the cookbook. They were amazing. We fried them in the air fryer and made Cilantro Lime Mayonnaise for dipping (not pictured).

Hojaldres
Cassava fries

We took some downtime to play Bingo at Hawaii Restobar in Nueva Gorgona. Hector and his team do a great job of providing entertainment and pub food for the expat community. Victoria enjoyed hanging out in one of our favorite places to relax and enjoy the fun. We didn’t win, but it sure was a fun time.

Bingo at Hawaii

Victoria went with us to aqua aerobics at the club on Saturday.

Notice the ominous clouds and raindrops on the water.
This guy was enjoying the aqua aerobics too.

We intended to spend the afternoon going to Santa Clara for lobster. Unfortunately the lobster/beach day in Santa Clara was rained out. By the time the rain stopped, we had eaten left-over sancocho and made plans for a movie. We saw a great movie, giving her the Panama movie theater experience. It was the perfect way to spend a rainy day. It was a lucky break that there was a movie in English that interested all of us. On our journey to the theater, we drove up the highway to the big artisan market and shopped around for gifts Victoria wanted to purchase for her siblings.

We had an entire day exploring El Valle de Anton, including the Sunday Market. The market is open seven days a week. Most days, you’ll find vendors who have orchids, and you’ll find magnificent carvings and handmade baskets. These baskets are popular with expats, and you’ll find that most homes have at least one around the house for various uses. The baskets are expensive because of the work that goes into making them. The sellers of the baskets rarely negotiate on the prices; however, most everything else in the market carries a price that can be negotiated.

Seeking treasured gifts at the Sunday Market in El Valle.

With over 2,000 species, Panama has the most abundant and beautiful butterflies in the world. The butterfly habitat lets visitors get up close and personal with the country’s butterflies. A private guide shows an educational film and conducts a tour. Once inside the habitat, you’ll have the opportunity to see butterflies at every stage of growth and enjoy their beauty. The guide will give information and interesting facts about the butterflies in residence inside the habitat. Pictures from this exhibit will be something that you will treasure from the visit.

The Orchids Center (Aprovaca Orquideas) concentrates on conserving endangered native orchids and promoting ecotourism and environmental education. It is just off the main road and equally interesting. Orchids are natural to the area, with over 1,400 varieties, and almost every variety of the beautiful flower is represented. Each orchid has a different time of year when it blooms, so each visit is a new and beautiful experience. Like the butterfly habitat, each group has a private tour. The guides are a wealth of knowledge and will tell you things you will never learn elsewhere. On our visit we found very few blooming orchids. It was a nice walk through the habitat.

The town of La Mesa is located nearby in the Valle de Anton. It is the site of the Chorro el Macho waterfall. This 280-foot waterfall is considered one of the most beautiful areas of the valley. It is a short walk north through the lush rainforest. A large pool fed by the falls is at the base of the falls. It was open for swimming once, but swimming is no longer permitted.

Walking paths allowed us to explore the area. Suspension bridges cross the river providing views of the falls. For the more adventurous, zip lines through the treetops provide breathtaking aerial views of the Chorro el Macho waterfall. When you enter the area to pay the admission, you will be offered a walking stick; take one. You can hire a guide here who will point out the local birds, animals, butterflies, and other points of interest. This is also the place to arrange for the zip line tour. We did not zip line on our visits to the falls, but this is something that has been enjoyed by several of our guests.

We also hiked to a different part of the volcano’s rim, where we could take in the magnificent views of the valley. From that viewpoint, we saw the Sleeping Indian. It does look exactly as advertised. It was breathtaking.

We chose to have lunch at a favorite restaurant in El Valle for a casual meal, Zapote. It’s on the right, as you enter town before you reach the market. They offer a wide variety of food options on a massive menu. With large, tasty pizzas and delectably fresh ceviche, the restaurant also offers Panama’s traditional dish, sancocho. With so many great meal options, there was something to please everyone.

On our way out of town, we stopped at the Valle de Anton Museum. The small museum gives a unique historical view of the area. One exhibit shows the history of the volcano’s formation and eventual habitation. Another exhibit highlights the native people, while the wildlife is on full display in others. There is a short film at the end.

Our day was packed with cool experiences. On the way down the mountain, we stopped for a pipa fria. It’s much better, healthier, and more refreshing than ice cream.

Pipa Fria

Early the following week, we had beach time, relaxed at the pool, and hiked to Filipina Falls. At the trailhead, we were met by the dogs who showed us the way. We passed a big, ugly black goose on the trail and got our feet wet.

A little beach adventure

Wednesday morning, we left early to tour the Gamboa Rainforest. Before taking a cable car ride through the jungle canopy, we toured the butterfly exhibit, poison frog pond, orchid house, and sloth sanctuary. At the end of the cable car, we strolled to the top of a 90-foot tower to admire the jungle, Panama Canal, and Chagres River, which flows into Lake Gatun. From the tower, we could see an Embera Village tucked into the jungle near the river as we enjoyed the sounds of the jungle.

Gamboa Rain Forest Resort.
A selfie at the top of the canopy tower

After our amazing morning, we enjoyed lunch at Maagoo Fish Tacos before continuing to The Panama Museum of Biodiversity. Puente de Vida (“Bridge of Life”) is a portal to the earth’s richest and most diverse ecosphere. Internationally renowned architect Frank Gehry designed it. It’s located at the end of the Amador Causeway in Panama City, facing the Pacific Ocean at the entrance of the Panama Canal.

A selfie at the Biodiversity Museum

From the air, the beautiful building was designed to look like a bird in flight. The first stop on the tour through the museum is a look at the animals that share this land. The animals are ranked on a wall as to their existence, and some are now extinct. Others are only maintained in captivity. The golden toad is one of these creatures. It was thought to only exist in the dense, unexplored jungle. Now, there is a belief that the toads are only still here in zoos and aquariums.

The tour continues with a wonderful 360-degree film that challenges all your senses. It even plays on the floor. The film depicts the wonderful nature of Panama, including panoramic views of mountains, rivers, jungles, and oceans. As we continue, we learn how the land mass of Panama was created, forming a connection between South and North America. Volcanoes created what is called an isthmus between the two continents. The resulting land bridge allowed the migration of many species of animals in both directions. It also caused a change in the biology of both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. By blocking the water flow between the two bodies of water, two distinct oceans with different chemistries were created. This natural phenomenon caused the waters of the Pacific to warm and the Atlantic waters to remain colder.

As people continue through the museum, they enter an area of life-size cast animals. This exhibit is very cool. It shows the animals in the size and magnitude they migrated from one continent to another. Many people recognize some, as they are still here, while many are extinct. Much of what I have learned about the emergence of the isthmus of Panama, I learned from the exhibits at the Bio-Diversity Museum. The great biotic interchange, or the movement of plants and animals between North and South America, began millions of years ago. Some of the plants and animals found in Panama today have origins in North America, while others have origins in South America. Panama continues to bridge the two continents, providing annual migration routes for millions of birds. Other animals spread north or south through Panama due to environmental changes caused by humans.

We planned to go to Panama Vieja following the museum, but our plans were too aggressive. The tour of the ruins would have to wait for a future visit as our day ran short of hours. Instead, we explored the Amador Causeway, where we found an ice cream store and a few shops where Victoria could finish shopping for souvenirs for her family. She found her dad a Panama Hat. The best quality hats are known as Montecristis, after the town of Montecristi, where they are produced. The rarest and most expensive Panama hats are hand-woven with up to 3,000 weaves per square inch.  According to popular lore, a “Montecristi superfino” Panama hat can hold water and, when rolled up, pass through a wedding ring. She found a nice hat for her dad in a shop on Amador Causeway within her budget. While it’s not a superfino, it is a Montecristi. While I doubt it is woven tight enough to hold water, it rolled up and fit nicely into a box the shop owner provided.

We checked into our hotel near the airport and ordered an Uber to take us to dinner. Dinner was at a favorite Mexican restaurant in Metro Mall. After dinner, we wandered around until the mall closed before returning to the hotel. We were all exhausted.

Morning came much too soon. We woke up early and took Victoria to the airport. There were tearful goodbyes and a feeling of void left by her departure. We could feel Victoria’s excitement about returning to her family. As we stood in line at the Copa check-in counter, she excitedly looked at the first stamp on her passport.

Each time we have visitors, the time together never seems to be enough. The experience of having a grandchild visit magnifies this times a hundred. We wanted to latch on and keep her here longer. Our guest room stands in wait for the next guest. We love to show any visitor the beautiful country where we have chosen to spend retirement. Our next grandchild will be a long wait, but we are already anxious for his visit. In the meanwhile, we would love to see you here!

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

We were overcome by exhaustion following our awesome South America adventure

When Jen and I scheduled our South American adventure, we were checking off an item from my bucket list. We were pampered for most of the trip on the beautiful Norwegian Star, which only circumvented about half the continent over our twenty-four days on board. The cruise ship journey was nearly 5000 Nautical miles. Initially, I wanted to cruise from and return to Panama, making the entire journey around South America. That was neither logistically nor financially possible. No carriers are making an offer for this transit. The sheer size of the continent baffled me, as I’m sure it does many. We traveled from Panama City over six hours by plane to Santiago, Chile, and returned by plane over seven hours from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Our adventure in South America started in Santiago. We saw treasured landmarks of the Chilean capital on a tour of Santiago. We visited the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago, Cerro Santa Lucia, and La Moneda Palace. We absorbed the bohemian charm of the Bellavista neighborhood and opted to explore the city’s financial district, nicknamed ‘Manhattan’ due to its skyscrapers. Our guide gave us insight into Santiago’s rich history and culture.

That evening, we enjoyed a performance by ‘Voces de América’ (America’s Voices) and the ‘Thiare’ ballet during a combination dinner show experience in Santiago. The three-course dinner of international fare was served while we enjoyed an extravaganza of typical dances from Chile’s northern, central, and southern regions, plus Easter Island. The set decoration featured exotic recreations of the ‘Moai’ stone from Easter Island, perfect for our romantic evening.

The Singer

We were transported from Santiago to San Antonio the following day, with two great adventures along the way. The first was Vina Santa Rita, one of Chile’s largest and most influential wineries. Founded in 1880, a large part of its success stems from its owner importing some of the finest French varieties, a team of top French winemakers, and specialized equipment. This investment paid off by producing some spectacular wines and changing the country’s wine industry. We enjoyed a guided tour through their vineyards and cellar, followed by wine tasting. We walked through the beautifully landscaped park and gardens, followed by wine tasting.

Our second stop was Parque Tricao. This private nature reserve preserves and protects 100 hectares of wetland and forest for the community. Not only are there walking trails and secluded spots to take in the park’s surroundings, but the world’s second-largest aviary and a garden inspired by Monet. We opted to spend the afternoon exploring the beautiful aviary.

Our driver delivered us to our hotel in San Antonio, near the port. We met new friends who would cruise with us for dinner in the hotel. We spent the night anticipating boarding our ship, where we spent the next 24 days traveling and exploring. I got these great photos in San Antonio before we boarded.

We set sail for Puerto Mont, Chile, with a day at sea planned en route. Unfortunately, the weather prevented us from taking excursions at our stop there. We prayed for better weather. The captain traveled on, giving us another day at sea before making an unscheduled stop in Castro.

Beautiful Sunsets

We gathered with a few of our new friends for the unplanned stop at Castro.

Castro is Chile’s third oldest city in continuous existence. Rodrigo de Quiroga, as the temporary governor of Chile in 1567, launched a campaign led by his son-in-law, Captain Martin Ruiz de Gamboa, to conquer Chiloé Island, establish the city of Castro there, and subjugate its inhabitants, the Cunos. From its founding on February 12, 1576, until 1767, Castro was the administrative center of Chiloé Island. In 1594, Castro had 8,000 inhabitants, most of whom were farmers. Up to the middle of the 17th century, Dutch pirates looted the town several times.

We opted to walk around and enjoy the delightful little town on the Pacific Coast of Chile.

Notice we’re wearing warmer clothes. As the adventure moved south, the weather became cooler. We boarded the ship at the end of the day, and the captain set sail. The weather at Castro was perfect, and everyone was optimistic that we could visit all of the scheduled ports and travel through the Magellan Straights and Beagle Channel before rounding Cape Horn. The captain was forced to cancel some of the best ports on the cruise before ours.

We traveled through the Chilian Fjords for two days before landing in Punta Arenas, Chile, on Saturday. We chartered a vessel to one of Chile’s largest penguin colonies. Located on Magdalena Island, the site was declared a natural monument in 1982. The boat took us for an hour along the Strait of Magellan. We were given about an hour on the island to observe the Magellan penguins in their natural habitat. A large colony of penguin’s nest and breed there each year between October and March. They bury their eggs in sandy burrows and under shrubs. Most chicks had hatched, and we caught this adventure at the end of the breeding season. Some adult penguins had already started the migration, and the chicks were soon to follow.  They were curious and untamed – if approached too quickly, they would scamper off.

Following our amazing visit to the penguin habitat, Jen and I wandered around the port town before returning to the ship.

Punta Arenas

Our next stop was Ushuaia, Argentina, where we had a great tour. It began with a scenic drive to Central Station for an unforgettable trip on the Tierra del Fuego Southern Railway train to the end of the world. This railway uses the original narrow-gauge line that was part of the small train for prisoners until 1947. Prisoners were housed in a maximum-security prison deep in the forest at the very end of solid land. Escape from the region was impossible with no one ever successfully escaping. They were forced to work to build the infrastructure of what is now Ushuaia. The train carried us to the farthest south land mass of the world. We bought postcards to send to our grandchildren, but we found the post office closed at the end of the world.

Postcards for our grandchildren

Upon arrival at the Park Station, we boarded a bus through Tierra del Fuego National Park to Lapataia Bay, marking the end of the 2,010 miles from Buenos Aires. A catamaran was waiting to return us to the ship via the Beagle Channel. En route, we saw the historic lighthouse, Les Eclaireurs, Seal Island, Isla de los Lobos, and Island of the Birds, whose names clearly express the rich wildlife we saw from the deck of the catamaran on our journey back to the ship.

Fin del Mundo lighthouse

From the bottom of the world, we sailed through the Magellan Straights and past Cape Horn. Because inquiring minds want to know, this is the closest we got to Antarctica, and, yes, it’s cold there. The high temperature was under 50 degrees F. We were blessed to have the best weather for such a journey. While on the Magellan Straight, we passed several magnificent glaciers, which we admired primarily from the inside. The passage through the Straights and past Cape Horn was early morning, and many people on the ship gathered on the deck to get pictures. The captain expertly navigated the ship through the most dangerous waters in the world while we looked on in awe.

Cape Horn

After traversing Cape Horn, we traveled on to Stanley, Falkland Islands. From the port, we traveled to a farm on a lagoon to discover a Gentoo penguin colony in their natural habitat. Upon arrival at the lagoon, we were met by rangers and were able to wander around the penguin colony and along the sandy white beach. Approximately 600 pairs of Gentoo penguins were there. The site was very photogenic, with a large lagoon and long sand beach, home to various seabirds, sea lions, and dolphins. There was a warm, comfortable place to rest where we enjoyed delicious homemade cookies (biscuits) with hot chocolate, tea, or coffee.

Our day was just getting started. We went from the farm, where we found penguins, to the town of Stanley.

The Falkland Islands have a land area of 4,700 sq mi (12,000 km2) and a coastline estimated at 800 mi (1,300 km). The archipelago consists of two main islands, West Falkland and East Falkland, and 776 smaller islands. The islands are predominantly mountainous and hilly. The major exception is the depressed plains of Lafonia (a peninsula forming the southern part of East Falkland). The Falklands Islands are located in the South Atlantic, about 300 mi (480 km) east of Patagonia in southern Argentina.

The Falkland Sound separates the archipelago’s two main islands, and its deep coastal indentations form natural harbors. East Falkland houses Stanley (the capital and largest settlement), The UK military base at RAF Mount Pleasant and the archipelago’s highest point, Mount Usborne, at 2,313 ft (705 m), is located here. Outside these significant settlements is the area colloquially known as “Camp,” derived from the Spanish term for countryside (Campo).

The island’s climate is cold, windy, and humid. Variability of daily weather is typical throughout the archipelago. Rainfall is common over half of the year, averaging 610 mm (24 in) in Stanley, and sporadic light snowfall occurs nearly all year. Stanley’s temperature has historically stayed between 21.1 and −11.1 °C (70.0 and 12.0 °F), with mean monthly temperatures varying from 9 °C (48 °F) early in the year to −1 °C (30 °F) in July. Strong westerly winds and cloudy skies are common. Although numerous storms are recorded each month, conditions are normally calm.

The Falkland Islands has about 2500 residents with more than 2000 living in Stanley. The islands are much bigger than we expected, with most of the territory covered with sheep farms. Here, we had no internet or telephone. Locals said they paid a high price for these things. The islands are British Territories following the Falkland Island Conflict, where Argentina tried to overthrow British rule in the eighties. Great Britain provides healthcare and education. The nation’s primary income is farming, with a small portion coming from tourism.

The town was charming, and we walked around to find the post office. We needed to mail our postcards to the grandchildren, and we were amazed that the cost to mail them was about USD 5 for all of them. Before returning to the ship, we visited an Anglican Church, a gift shop, and a museum.

After leaving Stanley, we spent Wednesday at sea. Sea days were spent relaxing and discovering the many activities and amenities aboard the ship. We found the library, and I was able to leave a copy of Murder in Eagle Cove for other passengers to enjoy.

I also participated several times in the evening Karaoke party. I was selected as a Karaoke Superstar and invited to sing with the B-12 band in the final competition. I didn’t win the competition; however, it was an honor to be selected to compete with a very talented group of seven other competitors. I will post my performance on my YouTube channel for anyone interested. The bigger thrill for me was being invited to sing with the ship’s piano guy, Jamison, in the atrium on the last night on board the ship. Jen and I had become fast friends with him while on board. We sought him out and enjoyed his music as often as possible. He and the guitar player, Angel, were both immensely talented and provided excellent entertainment.

The invitation to compete.
Singing with Jamison

Another notable thing we experienced while cruising was the food. We both enjoyed overindulging in the great drinks and meals. I am not a big fan of sharing pictures of our food, but sometimes I couldn’t resist taking a picture or two. We also came into our cabin each day to special treats which we were unsure who sent. We do know that other passengers did not share this special treat. We suspect the management crew, or our cruise consultant may have had something to do with it. Jen organized two special meet-and-greet events during the journey. Both had more than fifty attendees. We gave out cruise door magnets, and the management crew came in to introduce themselves to those attending.

Enjoying Cagney’s Steakhouse

After our sea day, we made port in Puerto Madryn, Argentina. It’s located in Chubut on the Gulfo Nuevo within the region of Patagonia. The town was first settled in 1865 by Welsh immigrants. Today, the Welsh community still thrives in and around Puerto Madryn, but people aren’t the only ones who call this remote region of the world home. It’s a popular destination for up close and personal marine life encounters. Many people go there in search of penguins, whales, and dolphins. We took off for the Provincial Wildlife Preserve Punta Loma. We visited a checkpoint for sea lions on the rocky desert cliff. The desert terrain was interesting, so close to the Atlantic Ocean. We explored there, finding Sea Lions on the rocks, before returning to town.

We sailed on for another day before docking at Montevideo, Uruguay’s energetic capital, where we browsed the Old City before checking out The Andes Museum 1972. It’s a museum dedicated to the plane accident that took place in the Andes in 1972 involving a group of Uruguayan rugby players, their friends, and relatives who were traveling to Chile when the airplane crashed. Some of them belonged to the Old Christians rugby club. The story of how they survived the tragedy was transmitted worldwide through books, documentaries, pictures, conferences, and inspiration for the film Alive.

The museum pays homage to the memory of the 29 people who died due to the plane accident in the Andes and to those who risked their lives to save the rest. It reminds us of those 16 Uruguayans who returned to life after 72 days in the Andes’s freezing weather conditions with no food or proper clothing. The museum displays objects, documents, and photographs related to the Andes Tragedy in 1972.

It may seem strange, but this was one of the places we visited that we talked about the most. We spent nearly two hours exploring the sad place, which seemed to house the ghosts of those lost in the tragedy.

After the Museum, we took a walking tour of Uruguay’s capital. There were markets, plazas, and people dancing in the square. Our guide showed us the gate to Old Town, the place where the Tango originated, the President’s office, the location where the Constitution was drafted, the Mausoleum and Monument to General Jose Gervasio de Artegas, and strolled with us down the plaza.

The following morning, we docked in Buenos Aires, Argentina. This was the last stop of the first leg of our cruise adventure. We remained onboard the ship while they performed the changeover. We were fortunate to stay in the same cabin for the remaining ten days to Rio.  We enjoyed the activities while watching a new group board the ship. It surprised us that the new cruisers differed greatly from those who made the initial transit. Only 113 people remained to continue to Rio. We rested for the night and took a tour of Buenos Aires the next morning before the ship departed on the second leg of our cruise adventure.

Buenos Aires is the largest city and capital of Argentina. It is known for its preserved eclectic European architecture and rich culture. Buenos Aires is home to multiple ethnic and religious groups contributing to its culture and dialect. Since the 19th century, the city and the country have been major recipients of millions of immigrants worldwide, making it a melting pot where several ethnic groups live together. Thus, Buenos Aires is considered one of the most diverse cities in the Americas.

We enjoyed an enlightening overview of Buenos Aires by visiting landmarks ranging from its most politically important square to its most characteristic neighborhoods. After departing the pier, we traveled to Plaza de Mayo, arguably the most famous square in Argentina. Its name refers to the revolution that began nearby in May 1810 and led to Argentina’s independence from Spain. Some of the surrounding buildings are just as celebrated. President Juan Peron and his wife Eva, more affectionately known as Evita, delivered numerous speeches from the balcony of Casa Rosado, the executive mansion. We saw the glorious Metropolitan Cathedral adorned with frescoes and elaborate artwork. Then, it was on to the neighborhood of La Boca to view El Caminito, a street that is an open-air museum of sorts full of brightly colored buildings. Some claim the tango originated here around 1870, and tango dancers were performing in the streets. While La Boca is a working-class neighborhood, Barrio Norte is the most affluent. That became immediately apparent as we drove through it. We had a nice tour of the Botanical Garden. On the way back to the pier, we went through leafy Palermo, the city’s largest neighborhood. We passed the zoo and Recoleta Cemetery while looking candidly at daily life in Buenos Aires.

After leaving Buenos Aires, the ship returned for another stop in Montevideo, Uruguay. We took the opportunity to journey back in time to visit Colonia del Sacramento, the oldest town in Uruguay and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s renowned for its quaint historic quarter lined with colorful houses and cobblestone streets reminiscent of old Lisbon. On the two-hour journey we visited a bull ring tucked into a small town along the way. We learned that bullfighting was only allowed for two years here (1910-1912). The facility has been beautifully restored and is now a convention facility.

We continued to drive through the lush countryside to the small city of Colonia del Sacramento, founded by the Portuguese in 1680 when Spain and Portugal were in the midst of conflicts. Both empires fought for over a hundred years until the Treaty of Saint Ildefonso finally awarded it to Spain. We discovered a rich cultural history as we crossed the drawbridge entrance into the old walled city, accompanied by our guide. We walked along winding streets lined with colorful colonial houses. We saw the San Francisco Convent, the Lighthouse, and the cathedral in the main square. We had an authentic lunch at a typical local restaurant and explored briefly before returning to the bus.

As we returned to the ship, I was taken aback by the landscape. Remember that in the southern hemisphere, the seasons are reversed from the north. We were experiencing weather and a climate similar to what would be considered late summer coming into fall. The area reminded me of late summer in Michigan. Green pastures, grazing cattle, and fields of sweet corn were everywhere.

We sailed overnight to Punta del Este, Uruguay, where we took a scenic drive through Punta del Este’s most interesting beaches and neighborhoods. We discovered two unique and very interesting art collections. The art and architecture treasure trove hidden here is a secret known only to a select few. Punta del Este is known as a world-class resort and jet-set destination. Driving from the harbor, we saw the Peninsula Brava Beach and the open-air collection of sculptures at Square of the Americas, among which The Hand is a city icon.

La Mano (The Hand)

Before arriving at the Ralli Museum, we passed through the residential areas of San Rafael, Golf Park, and Beverly Hills. Located in the emerald green setting of Beverly Hills, the museum houses a collection of works by Latin American painters and sculptors and European artists such as Salvador Dali. From there, we visited the Pablo Atchugarry Foundation, where we admired some impressive marble sculptures, among other works of art. This nonprofit organization has created a space of ideal union between art and nature. During our visit, we saw the artist’s workshop, exhibition halls, and a permanent collection and works of Pablo Atchugarry.

I took many pictures of these two amazing venues’ art and sculptures. I am sharing below some of our favorites. Forgive me for not captioning these pieces of art. We were on information overload after seeing hundreds of beautiful pieces of art. This is where I’m missing some of the many pictures. Each day I uploaded the photos from my camera to my computer over a questionable internet connection. I fear some treasured photos may be in cyberspace in the Southern Hemisphere.

We spent the following day at sea. The ship had magnificent laundry service for those who may wonder about laundry during our thirty-day expedition. We could have packed a little lighter had we known this in advance. We just left our dirty laundry for our cabin steward, and it came back laundered and folded in a nice basket the following day. As we moved north in the Atlantic, the weather became warmer. I was grateful for the clean laundry because the warmer it got, the fewer days I could get from a shirt.

After our sea day, we landed in Balneario (Camboriu), Brazil. It’s a coastal city in the southern Brazilian state of Santa Catarina, built on steep hills that drop down to the sea. It’s a popular tourist destination for South Americans drawn to its main ocean boulevard, Avenida Atlântica (Atlantic Avenue). This boulevard swells the city’s population from 145,796 (2020 census office estimate) to over one million in the summer. Balneário Camboriu is famous for its unique beach-to-beach cable car which links the city’s central beach with the beach of Laranjeiras. 

Notice the palms, indicating we’re returning to the tropics. At this stop, we had fun with an expedition taking us on the cable car that delivered us to a rain forest location just a short ride up the mountain from the central beach. We explored with our group before continuing on a different cable car to Laranjeiras Beach. We slipped into a bar for a bucket of beers and awaited our transportation to return us to the point of beginning (the central beach).  Our ride back was on a pirate ship. This tour was reminiscent of an adventure for children who would enjoy the Disney-like atmosphere far more than we did. It was fun, nevertheless.

Our next stop was in port at Santos in São Paulo, Brazil. It was founded in 1546 by the Portuguese nobleman Bras Cubas. It was located mostly on the island of São Vicente, which harbors both the city of Santos and the city of São Vicente, and partially on the mainland. It’s the main city in the metropolitan region of Baixada Santista. The population is 433,656 (2020 est.). The city is home to the Coffee Museum, where world coffee prices were once negotiated. A football memorial is also dedicated to the city’s greatest players, including Pele, who spent most of his career with Santos Futebol Clube. Our excursion began with a panoramic drive to the Coffee Museum through the historic city center. The former palace was inaugurated in 1922 to celebrate 100 years of Brazilian independence. The architecture of the building is unique in São Paulo State and includes a 120-foot clock tower and four statues representing Industry, Commerce, Production, and Navigation. Wall paintings recall the history of Santos from its early times to the present. The building was restored in 1998 and, since that time, has housed the Coffee Museum.

Continuing, we visited the Museum of the Santos Futebol Clube. The club’s history covers many chapters of the team’s glory and victories. FIFA has recognized the team as “the best 20th-century Team on the American Continent.”

We had more than enough time in the Pele Museum, so we wandered outside and across the street to find a magnificent Cathedral. There was a wedding about to take place, so we crashed it. The old couple being united was humored by our existence. They were about to walk the aisle when I grabbed these great pictures. The guide told us later that the white building on the hill was connected to the Cathedral by tunnels used to move clergy safely during the war.

The São Paulo Railway Station was nearby as well. I thought it was a beautiful building. We had friends who took a São Paulo tour by train. They left from there and found it wonderful.

We ended our time there with a visit to the cool, shady realm of the Botanical Gardens, where we strolled among giant subtropical and tropical trees and stopped to see the aviary with its macaws, toucans, and parrots. The Orchidarium and zoo were a letdown.

From the Botanical Orchid Zoo, we returned to the pier. The captain sailed overnight to deliver us to the next port, Ilhabela, Brazil.

In Ilhabela, Brazil, we were disappointed. The tour described a day on the amazing island discovering the peace of nature where our driver was our guide in a powerful open-air 4×4 Jeep. Following tendering to the downtown pier, we would set off through the island and “Mata Atlantica” rain forest on a 25-minute drive to 3 Tombos Waterfalls. The falls were the easiest to access, and it was possible to park nearby. The breathtaking waterfall was described as the most pleasant for bathing on the island.  Next, we would drive to Curral Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on the North Coast. There would be time here to enjoy the beach and take a swim.

The diesel smoke in the open-air vehicle was nearly intolerable. Our driver spoke no English, and the guide was assigned to two vehicles. I’ll let the pictures below speak for the three breathtaking waterfalls (there was one, which was far from breathtaking). The beach was packed with visitors, and one was expected to order food to secure a table or chair. Jen and I deserted this tour, taking a cab back to the ship. No offer was given to refund all or part of this expensive tour. I waited two days to make a complaint to the tour desk. I wanted to remain positive, but I also wanted the cruise line to know about the disappointing tour. On the bright side…we saw things we would never have seen otherwise.

I took no pictures at the beach…

After the cab dropped us off, we wandered the village at the pier for a few minutes. It was charming, but the boat called us back for a cool ice cream and lunch—not necessarily in that order.

It was great to be back in warm weather, and we relaxed on the ship’s deck for the remainder of the day before departing for an overnight transit to Ilha Grande, Brazil.

Ilha Grande, or “big island,” is a forested island located around 151 km (94 mi) off of the Atlantic coast of Angra dos Reis, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and about 450 km (280 mi) from Sao Paulo. A popular outdoor destination, the island remains largely undeveloped as much of the area falls within Ilha Grande State Park (Parque Estadual da Ilha Grande). Thus, the remainder of the island is subject to stringent development restrictions to preserve the natural environment; vehicles are not permitted, and roads are virtually non-existent. For visitors, an hour-long boat excursion is the sole way to access the island. Several small villas and hamlets cater to researchers, tourists, and nature lovers. Around 2,000 people inhabit the largest town on the island, Vila do Abraao.

For almost a century, the Brazilian government declared the island off-limits, banning unauthorized entry, as it had contained an immigration quarantine station and, later, a maximum-security prison (Colônia Penal de Dois Rios, later known as Instituto Penal Cândido Mendes). The Cândido Mendes Penal Colony, which housed some of the most dangerous offenders in Brazil, was closed in 1994.

The highest point on Ilha Grande is the 1,031 m (3,383 ft) tall Pico da Pedra D’Água.

On July 5, 2019, Ilha Grande and Paraty were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Here, we dared to take two great excursions. We tendered to the pier to sail on a schooner to Ilha Grande’s most idyllic snorkeling spots, the Blue Lagoon, and an isolated beach on the island’s north side. After departing from the pier in the schooner, we sailed off for the Blue Lagoon, a beautiful body of water known for its brilliant color and astounding clarity. During the hour it took to reach the lagoon, we enjoyed a unique perspective of Ilha Grande, taking in its densely forested shoreline. The entire island is protected environmentally, so nature reigns supreme. Upon arriving at the Blue Lagoon, we saw boaters feeding the fish with breadcrumbs, which attracted huge schools. The waters are typically calm and shallow, making the lagoon ideal for snorkeling. Countless species of tropical fish thrive here. The setting couldn’t have been more inviting. Sailing on, we passed Love Beach before coming upon beautiful Praia de Fora, another idyllic beach on the northern tip of Ilha Grande. We enjoyed its golden sand and strolled along the shore. This beach is pristine because of its remote location, and the vegetation is thick and lush right up to the sand. There was a church in the jungle near the beach. We swam for about an hour before sailing back to the pier.

Brazil 2024

Once back at the pier, we explored the Portuguese-founded island on foot. The bio-diverse wonderland was once notorious as a pirate refuge, leper colony, and Alcatraz-style prison. The prison, known as the “devil’s cauldron,” is now in ruins. As we departed the pier on foot, we were soon immersed in Ilha Grande State Park, a biological reserve established in 1971. Along the way, our guide discussed the park’s flora and fauna, which includes colorful parrots, exotic hummingbirds, and stout capybaras, the world’s largest rodent. Because the entire island is protected environmentally, it boasts one of South America’s most diverse ecosystems. Unfortunately, many of the animals are endangered. After pausing at the lovely San Sebastian church, we learned about Ihla Grande’s infamous past as an entry point for African slaves.  A photo opportunity awaited at Black Beach, a beautiful stretch of black sand because it contains so much dark quartz. In the mangrove there, I spotted blue crabs scurrying around. We had some free time to stroll along the shore of Preta Beach before following a trail to Ilha Grande’s old aqueduct, a beautiful structure partially covered with tropical vines. We then had an opportunity to visit a beautiful waterfall before returning to the pier.

The next day, we dropped anchor at Buzios, Brazil. Buzios is a wonderful resort town boasting many inviting beaches, and the Buzios Trolley was the perfect way to get acquainted with this idyllic peninsula. It was a short walk from the tender pier to the trolley, where, once aboard, we set off on a leisurely tour that included seeing twelve beaches and two belvederes. The trolley was open, providing unobstructed views and allowing us to drink in the invigorating pure air and feel the refreshing ocean breezes. As we traveled along the coast, we passed an amazing stretch of golden sand beaches, each highlighting why Buzios is becoming a sought-after destination. The delightful trolley navigation of Buzios included five photo stops and a drive through the downtown area. We found ourselves back at the tender pier after about two delightful hours.

Our Ship Anchored in the Bay

Our super adventure was winding down, and we made our final port at Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The last few days of our time in South America were spent exploring Rio. We took the morning to disembark, and our driver picked us up. He delivered us to our great hotel, only a block from the Copacabana Beach. During a guided tour, we unpacked and explored the rural neighborhood of Santa Teresa and downtown Ancient Rio. When the tour group arrived to pick us up, we were surprised to find the van contained a group of doctors and their spouses from our cruise. In Ancient Rio, we visited the France Brazil House, Arcos da Lapa, Teles Arches, and Praça XV. In Santa Teresa, we admired the stately mansions from the early 1900s and viewed the neighborhood’s original tram, built in 1897. We learned about the importance of both of these neighborhoods in Rio’s past through commentary from our guide. The guide walked us through this iconic neighborhood, stopping briefly at a local art gallery. 

The driver picked us up and drove us through the area to our second stop, Centro Cultural Municipal Parque das Ruinas, the former home of Laurinda Santos Lobo, a preeminent female art supporter. The Parque das Ruínas is now a cultural center that continues its legacy of supporting artists everywhere. 

From the Cultural Center we wandered together through the beautiful old neighborhood of old downtown Rio. The beautiful architecture, parks, and fountains were amazing. We stopped at the Mother of Merchant of Lapa church during our walk. During our journey through South America, I was surprised to find the churches always open to the public. This particular church was beautifully restored to its original turn-of-the-century beauty. The fantastic fresco on the ceiling was freshly restored with the painter working above to finish the work.

Our last stop of the evening was Confeitaria Columbo. The confections, coffee, ice cream, and light snacks there were delightful. We had a light dinner and Red Velvet Cake. The driver delivered us back to our hotel, where we crashed with exhaustion.

Love These Signs

The following morning, we got up early for an epic full-day tour of Rio. Our tour company had selected the best tourist spots in Rio de Janeiro to visit with a unique and dynamic itinerary. The local guide maximized the experience, telling us more curiosities and historical facts about the city. 

Our morning started at the Sugarloaf Mountain cable car (Bondinho). Sugarloaf is one of the city’s most beautiful and famous icons. It’s located at the entrance to the city’s Guanabara Bay. It consists of two local lookout points with breathtaking views: Urca Hill (Morro da Urca), which is 227 meters high, and Sugar Loaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar), which is 170 meters higher.

The cable car delivered us to our first stop at Urca Hill, halfway up Sugarloaf. We spent some time there before continuing to the summit of Sugar Loaf, where we could see Botafogo Bay, Guanabara Bay, Pedra da Gavea Mountain, Sea Ridge (Serra do mar), and the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean.

We observed people climbing the mountain, but most, like us, take the cable car.

At the top, we ran into more friends from our cruise. The world is so small these days that there are people with whom we traveled who will be lifelong friends. Many of them have expressed interest in visiting us. Sales for my new Retired in Panama book spiked as people returned home following the cruise. I was sorry I didn’t have copies to share during the cruise.

Following the visit to Sugar Loaf, our morning went on at lightning speed. The driver picked us up and whisked us to Escadaria Selaron. The colorful tiled steps are in the Lapa neighborhood. Therefore, locals call them Lapa Steps (Escadaria da Lapa). It’s the work of Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón (1947-2013), his tribute to the Brazilian people. He moved to Rio in 1980 and lived in a house next to the stairs to the Convent of Santa Teresa. It took him 20 years to decorate the 215 stairs. This is one of the attractions in Rio that you must not miss. The colorful steps were covered with tiles from all over the world. We paused here to take pictures and look for tiles from other places we’ve visited. We did find the Panama Canal tile. As you can see in the pictures, the place was very crowded. I understand it is like that all day, every day…go early for the best experience.

Escadaria Selaron

I felt sorry for the bus driver, who had a devil of a time navigating the bus through the crowd to pick us up at the base of the stairs. Once we got the group aboard, we traveled to The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Sebastian. The unusual structure made it one of the most remarkable sights we saw.

The Rio de Janeiro Cathedral, also known as the Metropolitan Cathedral of Sao Sebastiao, stands out among the city’s buildings. The church has a unique structure that leaves people marveling. Everyone who visits is surprised by its history and appearance.

When I looked at the church from the outside, my first thought was it could not be a catholic church because there are no traditional symbols of the Catholic Church. There’s no cross at the top; however, just like all catholic churches, the Rio de Janeiro has a cross as its ultimate symbol. We could see the cross at the top, at the center of a circle, when we stepped inside the church. The cross made of transparent material illuminated light that spread throughout the church, representing the presence of God among his people.

The Cross

The cathedral has four stained glass windows positioned according to the cardinal points. They approve of the cathedral’s purpose and confirm the church’s four fundamental characteristics: One, Holy, Catholic, and Apostle. One, on the window, is represented by the color green, meaning unity of the church; Holy in red illustrates sanctification and sanctification; Catholic in blue refers to the church’s mission to save men; and Apostolic in yellow alludes to the hierarchy of the Catholic Church.

Conical in form, the cathedral has 96 meters of internal diameter, 106 meters of external diameter, and an overall height of 75 meters. The area is 8000 square meters inside the church and has a capacity of 20,000 people while standing and 5000 while seated. The cathedral’s four windows run 64 meters from the floor to the ceiling, meeting at the top to form a cross.

Edgar de Oliveira da Fonseca, a Brazilian architect, designed the cathedral. The modern style was based on the Mayan architectural style of the Pyramids. Despite the modern pyramid structure, the Mayan architecture dates back several thousands of years. The Mesoamerican pyramids are similar to the Egyptian ones but have a flat top. This was the New World structure used while constructing the cathedral. Most churches in Rio are Gothic in style.

We departed the Cathedral for lunch. Our trip to our lunch location included a brief stop at the Maracanã Stadium. The stadium could be seen from many of the places we visited because of its massive structure. I captured it from above in many photographs and was intrigued by it. Completed in 1950, it is the home stadium of the football clubs Flamengo and Fluminense.

The first impression of visiting Maracanã Stadium is its size. It is among the largest football stadiums in the world, though its capacity has been significantly reduced over the years due to multiple renovations. Built for the World Cup in 1950, it could hold 200,000 standing spectators. The final official attendance of that year’s World Cup between Uruguay and Brazil was 173,830 fans, although some estimates. However, actual attendance was closer to 210,000—a record attendance at a World Cup match that is unlikely to be broken. Brazil lost the game in a shocking upset, and mad Brazilian fans still remember the defeat as the Maracanaço (the Maracanã blow).

The Stadium was designed by seven Brazilian architects, including Raphaël Galvão and Pedro Paulo Bernardes Bastos. It was renamed in 1966 in honor of the journalist who had campaigned successfully to build a new stadium for the 1950 World Cup. While the stadium has been primarily used for football, it has also been used for exhibition matches for other sports, and Pope John Paul II conducted three Masses there. The stadium is also a regular concert venue.

Monument to Hilderaldo Bellini in front of the Stadium

Bellini was honored with a statue at the stadium entrance depicting him lifting the 1958 World Cup trophy. At the end of his international career from 1957 to 1966 with Brazil, he earned 51 caps, captaining the team during the 1958 World Cup in Sweden.

After a wonderful lunch on our tour, we continued to what most people visit Rio to see…Corcovado. The most iconic landmark in Rio is located at the peak of Corcovado Mountain in Tijuca Forest National Park. The Christ the Redeemer statue opened in 1931, and today, it is the best-known symbol of Brazil, in addition to being one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The imposing statue is 32 meters tall and weighs 1,145 tons. We took the elevator and escalators to the base of the statue.

Christ the Redeemer

On our last day in Rio, we got up early (4:30 a.m.) to see the sunrise at the Dona Marta Lookout. It was a great visual and photographic experience, suitable for those who want to be at a considerable height and have amazing photos without climbing the Pedra da Gávea.  From the top, we saw Guanabara Bay, Niterói, Sugar Loaf Mountain, the Lagoon, and Christ the Redeemer right before our eyes with open arms. The day was a bit cloudy, but our guide took over 200 pictures of us enjoying the sunrise. We shared this place with about fifty others, including a small bridal party. We had to work around the others to get some of the most special photos of our adventure.

The guide delivered us back to our hotel in time for breakfast. We ate and took off on foot to explore Copacabana Beach. The beach is lovely, and a famous wavy mosaic sidewalk is all along the beachfront. Every year, more than two million people go to Copacabana Beach to celebrate New Year’s Eve and watch the most traditional fireworks display in Rio de Janeiro. We strolled to one end and back in time for a light snack and cool drink before meeting the guide for our last excursion in Rio.

The Tijuca National Forest is one of the largest urban rainforests in the world, set on mountain slopes just west of the City of Rio de Janeiro. With this tour, we discovered two of the city’s nature sites, starting with a guided walk through the Jardim Botanical Gardens. The gardens were created by Dom Joao VI in 1808 when the Royal Family of Portugal came to Brazil. There are plant species from several parts of the world. The highlights were the orchid nursery and the rare imperial palms, many over 150 years old.  Our tour included Turtle Lake, the Orchid House, and the Japanese Sensory Garden.

We then toured through Tijuca Forest to learn more about the native plants and wildlife.  At nearly 4,000 hectares, corresponding to approximately 3.5% of the total municipal area of Rio, Tijuca Forest National Park offers Atlantic Forest attractions and vestiges of Brazil’s history. Tijuca Forest is considered the largest urban forest in the world and is home to exotic and rare species of Brazilian fauna and flora. We stopped to take in the view from the Chinese Vista. 

During the 19th century, Rio de Janeiro and its surrounding countryside experienced a constant influx of Chinese immigrants, most of whom arrived as part of a concerted effort to cultivate tea across the region. While, to a large extent, the local tea industry never matured to become globally successful, the Chinese community still left a significant mark on the local culture and history. At the very beginning, when a series of tea plantations were established around the city, a group of migrants from China paved a curvy road across the Tijuca rainforest, connecting Alto da Boa Vista with Jardim Botânico. The road, built to facilitate the movement of goods, was originally embellished with a thatched roof structure nicknamed “Casa das Chinas” (the house of the Chinese).

In 1903, the then mayor Rio Periera Passos, together with the office of forestry, tasked architect Luís Rey with replacing the makeshift shed with a brand-new oriental-style gazebo that paid tribute to the Chinese coolies. Nestled atop the wooded foothills of the Serra da Carioca cliff, the pagoda features a couple of slender beams and columns reminiscent of bamboo culms. Perhaps its most striking part is its pair of light roofs, whose gutters are beautifully decorated with a gargoyle-shaped spout.

Thanks to its scenic location, about 380 meters above sea level, Vista Chinesa is blessed with some of Rio’s most spectacular views. Among the notable places visitors can see are the Christ the Redeemer statue, the Sugarloaf Mountain, Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, the golden beach strip of Ipanema, Leblon, and Morro Dois Irmãos. The timing was perfect for this brief stop. Jen and I reminisced over our wonderful time in Rio while pointing out the places we visited from the magnificent viewpoint.

Vista Chinesa

It was time to travel to our last official site of the tour, Taunay Waterfall. The falls were a delight, and we were surprised to find such a place inside urban Rio.

Taunay Waterfall at the Tijuca National Forest

We spent our last evening in Rio having a quiet dinner and taking an Uber back the hotel to pack. Our driver picked us up early and delivered us to the airport for our flight home.

I realize that I have written more than some of you will read. I spent the time and effort as much for myself as the readers. This gave me time to reflect on our adventure and put the trip in perspective. The blog posts from the past six years of retiring and adventuring in and from Panama are better than a photo album to me. If you haven’t read the blog before now, feel free to go back and explore the archives. It is a great time to subscribe so you will not miss any of our adventures. Next month, we will have some great friends to explore with here in Panama. In June, we’re excited to host our granddaughter, who will want to see more of the country.

Victoria Kavos

Our adventures will take to the world again in September. I’ve been invited to a writers’ conference in Greece. Following the conference, we will meet friends in Athens and cruise to Venice, Italy. Look forward to some great posts from there.

In November we will be taking another cruise adventure of the Caribbean, which will land in Miami. From Miami we will take another item from my bucket list and spend several days in Cuba. You can bet there will be another blog post then.

I won’t even go into our plans for next year. I hope that each of you will sign up to get my weekly newsletter while visiting the blog. The newsletter is published free every Monday, primarily keeping readers up to date on the news from Coronado, Panama. It also gives readers great information about upcoming books and offers. I expect to publish the second mystery thriller of the Detective Larry Saunders Series in October. I’m also working on a Fonda Cookbook, which I hope to have available soon. If you don’t know what a fonda is check out Retired in Panama. There’s an entire chapter there about Panama’s sidewalk eating establishments. Writing and sharing is as much an adventure for me as physically getting aboard a ship or plane and taking off for destinations around the world.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#WeLovePanama

Musings from Peru

Ready for Takeoff

Jen and I maintain that living in Panama is perfect for exploring our bucket list of world destinations. In early December, we headed for Peru to check off a destination that got stuck in cold storage during COVID-19.

We landed in Lima, a port city in the desert with a huge population and dozens of great things to explore. This would be a stopover on our way to Cusco, where we would base while exploring Machu Picchu, Incan ruins, Rainbow Mountain, and more. While in Lima, we saw some great parks, a museum, magnificent dancing fountains, and a mall built into the side of a cliff overlooking the Pacific. We found that transportation outside our prearranged tours was easy and cheap by using Uber.

Christmas Tree at Larcomar Mall Lima
The park above the Larcomar Mall

On day one in Lima, we had a little time to explore and found a great mall constructed on the side of a cliff overlooking the Pacific. When the Uber driver delivered us to the mall he asked if the location was suitable. I didn’t see the mall…only a park. The mall was situated below the park at street level and couldn’t be seen from the street. He told us to take the moving stairs down.  After a short walk through the park, we found the escalator leading down to one of the most amazing shopping destinations we have ever experienced. We didn’t buy anything due to our luggage restrictions, which were coming in a few days when we would be traveling on three domestic flights within the country. We found a restaurant and had lunch before returning to the hotel to prepare for our evening. The tour company was picking us up for the Magic Water Circuit by Night.

Magic Water Circuit by Night.
Magic Fountain

Jen and I had a private tour on this one, and the guide was everything you hope for when booking such an excursion. The Magic Water Circuit occupies a complex of green spaces of 180,000 square meters with thirteen ornamental fountains and striking lighting effects that have set the Guinness Record for the largest fountain complex in the world in a public park. The crowds reminded me of Disney. The people were gathering with friends and family to enjoy this magical place. The main pool of the circuit had a fountain that shot water to heights of eighty meters. A crown of vertical jets created fantasy multi-colored laser projections, while the vast central dome water formed the image of a Lily flower.

The main attraction was the “Fuente de la Fantasia,” a cybernetic pool 120 meters long that, thanks to technology, turned water into a dance and color show. The crowds at this fountain were easily ten people deep, making it difficult to get great pictures. Pictures would not do it justice in any case, as it was like a moving picture on the face of a fountain.

We captured pictures of nearly all 13 as we proceeded through the maze of beautiful fountains.  The tour was awesome.

It was a bit cold in Lima to get wet, but we made the trek through the center of the fountain Tunnel of Surprises in the video above. We emerged mostly dry, with the tour guide right behind us.

The next morning, Jen and I were up early with plenty of time for breakfast, a walk in the park across the street, and a visit to an art gallery hosting a unique collection of art called Erosion. It was the last day of the exhibit, and we felt fortunate to have been able to see it. The other really neat thing about our hotel’s location is that great restaurants and shops surrounded the park, unofficially called cat park, and it was full of cats who made it their home. People there feed them, and they seemed more than comfortable to make the park their home. There was an exhibit in the park of local artists displaying and selling their work.

Officially, our tour group was twelve people with whom we would spend most of the first few days in Peru. Jen and I traveled a day early, allowing us that fabulous first-day tour of the magic fountains. On day two, we caught up with the remainder of our group for a tour of Lima’s Colonial Center, the Major Square, the Government Palace, the Cathedral Basilica, the Archbishop’s Palace, and the Municipality of Lima.

Our first tour group

We had upgraded our accommodations and selected some upgraded tour experiences, so you will see another couple, Lee and Chelle, with whom we spent most of the time. They also selected some upgrades. We met them that second day in the hotel lobby while waiting for the tour bus.

The afternoon tour was filled with beautiful architecture and great information about Peru. Our guide was the same as the previous night, and we were happy to have her back. She was a fountain of knowledge (no pun intended). A picture paints a thousand words, so I will shamelessly share many amazing pictures without much commentary here. It seems like it was a lifetime ago that we had this tour. It started in The Gran Hotel Bolivar in Colonial Square, which hosted many celebrities and dignitaries. It continued through the Colonial Center, ending in the Convent of San Francisco. In Colonial Peru, a convent was home to Priests.

After the walking tour of the Colonial Center, our tour guide continued to give us details of the history and culture of Lima on our ride back to our hotels in the Miraflores neighborhood. On the ride, one of the other people on tour, a self-proclaimed foodie, told us that one of the top-rated restaurants in the world was near our hotel. They had tried to get in, but it was booked months in advance. With an appetite from a long day of exploring, Jen and I set out on foot for dinner after being dropped off at the hotel. We were grateful for the safe neighborhood. We walked a few blocks to a restaurant recommended by our guide. The food in Peru was good. We avoided a few things, like the guinea pig, at the advice of the tour operator.

Our first domestic flight to Cusco.

The following morning, we had breakfast, and the tour company picked us up for our domestic flight to Cusco. The flight was relatively short, taking us from the desert climate just above sea level in Lima to the highest altitude commercial airport in the world at Cusco. The altitude in Cusco is just over 11,150 feet above sea level. From the airport in Cusco, we were whisked away to Sacred Valley, where they left us at our hotels. Sacred Valley is at a slightly lower altitude than Machu Picchu, which is just under 8,000 feet. We had the remainder of the day free to acclimate to the altitude. Our hotel was a fifteenth-century monastery, San Agustin Monasterio de la Recoleta. It was a bit off the beaten path. We found cocoa tea available, which we sipped to make the altitude more bearable. Many people in the tour group took drugs for altitude sickness. Experts say to avoid alcohol and red meat while keeping portions small and consuming extra water to avoid altitude sickness. Jen and I took the advice of the experts and took a regimen of an herbal remedy, which we picked up at the pharmacy in Lima. Our struggle with the altitude was minimal. We had a light dinner in the hotel and turned in early to rest for our tour of Machu Picchu the following day.

One of the upgrades was our accommodations at the San Agustin de la Recoleta. Another was the magnificent 360-degree Vistadome train ride to Aguas Calientes, where we would board a passenger bus for the fifteen-minute ride to the base of Machu Picchu.

We were delighted by the mountain vistas on the train ride, which lasted almost two hours. We were served coffee and a snack while enjoying a cultural performance of actors dressed in period Incan costumes. The train ride seemed short, with the beautiful views touching nearly all of our senses. After leaving the train, we boarded the passenger bus, which navigated the remainder of the trip to Machu Picchu. The bus traversed the steep mountain road, weaving through many switchbacks. This is the only way to reach Machu Picchu for old people. Traditionally, people will hike the Inca Trail to the ruins. Hiking the Inca Trail is difficult, and hikers need adequate physical preparation. Some sections of the route are more difficult than others, involving steep ascents, high altitudes, and long days on the trail.

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is the most famous and one of the best hikes in South America. Few routes can compete with it, as it contains along its route several archaeological sites over 500 years old and mountains that leave you with your mouth open. History tells us that the Inca Empire stretched across territories in what is now Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Brazil, and Bolivia, and the original trail extended approximately 25,000 miles through these areas.

During the 15th and 16th centuries, the Inca Trail was used as a key trade route and for transportation. However, some parts were also used for ceremonial purposes. Therefore, there are many fascinating theories about the purpose of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, built at the height of the Inca Empire. Researchers believe it served as an annual pilgrimage route in honor of Inti, the Inca Sun God, who is believed to have been born on the Island of the Sun in Lake Titicaca. The trail is said to follow the path of the Sun’s rays during certain times of the year, from Lake Titicaca to Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is extensive as it covers all of Peru and reaches Ecuador in the north and Bolivia in the south, but if we talk about the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, it takes 2 to 4 days to cover. To hike this route to Machu Picchu, the Peru government requires you to hire an authorized guide service or tour company with the necessary permits to take hikers on the trip.

I advise you to take this adventure while still young enough to hike on the Inca Trail. For our purposes, my only regret was that we didn’t get the permit for the hike to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain, the highest mountain behind the Inca citadel. This incredible excursion takes approximately 4 hours round trip, starting at the citadel of Machu Picchu, walking through the Inca Trail hidden under the forest, and reaching the top of this impressive mountain. The government allows only 400 people per day to make this hike.

The summit of Machu Picchu Mountain

My research indicated that you would find yourself surrounded by a variety of flowers and wildlife, including orchids, begonias, ferns, and beautiful hummingbirds, while enjoying the exceptional view of the citadel of Machu Picchu, the Urubamba River flowing below and all the sacred mountains surrounding Machu Picchu.

The Machu Picchu Mountain has a special meaning for the Incas. Below this mountain, two rivers from the most sacred mountains of the Incas come together in a confluence. From the south runs the Urubamba River that rises in the Ausangate area, and from the west comes the Aobamba River that rises in the Salkantay Mountain. For this reason, the Machu Picchu Mountain becomes a monument of worship to the sacred waters.

Reaching the top of this mountain requires moderate climbing ability, as there are parts where it is very steep, but it is not considered dangerous. The hiking trail is well maintained; it is a paved path with many steps, although it zigzags in places.

Many tourists who climb Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain consider the latter to have a beautiful view. Still, Huayna Picchu is the better option in terms of Inca engineering.

The tour of the main sites of Machu Picchu took us about two hours. There are days when we were told the ruins can be very crowded. Tickets are limited to 2500 sold per day. Many of the important sites of Machu Picchu are no longer accessible on a single ticket. For example, the entrance of Huayna Picchu will require a separate ticket.

The Sanctuary of Machu Picchu is considered one of the most beautiful and mystical places of the Inca Empire. It is located between the mountains of Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. Walking among the ancient walls, gates, paths, and stairways gives a unique feeling to this archaeological site, which will transport you back many centuries. Spanish conquerors never reached Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu was declared a Peruvian Historic Sanctuary in 1982 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. In 2007, Machu Picchu was voted one of the World’s New Seven Wonders in a worldwide internet poll.

On the day we were there, the weather was cool and misty. The crowds were tolerable, and our tour was a delight. I cultivated some of the history and information above from www.machu-picchu.org and Wikipedia. The guides are a wealth of information; however, remembering everything they share is nearly impossible. We left this magical place and returned to our hotel. It was late when we returned, and we turned in early for an early return to Cusco the next morning.

On day six of our adventure, we traveled back to Cusco. The tour company delivered us to our hotel, and we took the opportunity to explore a bit and grab some lunch. The Plaza de Armas, or Main Plaza, is one of the main tourist attractions of the city of Cusco. We found it about four blocks from our hotel. Here, we found a couple of great Peruvian restaurants, shops, and a flurry of activity. Several religious temples (the Cathedral, the Church of the Society of Jesus, and the Chapel of Triumph) are accompanied by beautiful portals with colonial arches. The square was decorated for Christmas, and we were lucky to witness some traditional celebrations during our visits there. The walk was easy, and we felt safe even at night.

Jen and I had arranged a Pisco Tasting Experience for the early evening. Most visitors to Peru only try the national liquor mixed into a Pisco Sour. Our Pisco tasting tour offered a deeper insight through tastings of different varieties and infused Pisco’s. We learned to taste and pair Pisco properly and how to mix a classic Pisco Sour and Chilcano cocktail. Small appetizer dishes accompanied the tastings.

Jose closed the class by presenting several Piscos infused with different things. We particularly enjoyed the ghost pepper-infused Pisco. However, the fruits were delightful as well. We will be infusing some Pisco when we return to Panama. Pisco is not widely available in the United States. It’s produced in Peru and Argentina; however, the Argentinian Pisco may not be as good. Look for it to be crystal clear (not yellow).

Jose is very passionate about the birds of Peru and conducts birdwatching tours. He shared something of great importance to him. He informed us that 20% of the proceeds from our class help fund the Avistando Peru Project—the first channel in Peru that promotes birdwatching in Spanish among Peruvians. Participation helps make a significant impact on the environment and nature conservation in Peru. The aim is to combat ongoing pollution, illegal logging, wildlife hunting, and other factors threatening our world.

Following the Pisco Experience, we returned to our hotel and prepared for a full day of tours on day seven. Our time in Peru was moving at warp speed, and we were exhausted.

We were impressed with our accommodations in Cusco. It was part of the upgrade plan. The Hotel Xima was beautiful and comfortable but convenient and in a location where we could walk to almost everything. There was a huge artisan market and a park across the street. There were also many restaurants within walking distance and a nice Peruvian Restaurant in the hotel lobby. The breakfasts were good, and the staff was attentive.

We woke up early, rested for adventure, and had breakfast in the hotel before meeting our tour group for the last day we would spend together. The tour company had us touring many interesting places. Our first stop, Tambomachay, is an Inca archaeological site outside Cusco. Its precise function is unknown, but it may have served as a ceremonial site, an Inca spa, or a military outpost—or perhaps a mix of all three.

It sits on a hill about 4 miles north of Cusco, about 12,150 feet above sea level. The structure consists of three stepped terraces of precise Inca stonework, with trapezoidal niches built into some retaining walls. The whole thing is built over a natural spring, continuously feeding a series of small aqueducts, canals, and waterfalls built into the terraces.

As with so many Incan archaeological sites, there’s a strong possibility that Tambomachay served more than one purpose. It was easy to imagine it as a military outpost, a ceremonial center, or a spa for overworked Inca rulers. We quickly learned that the Inca empire stretched for what is now several countries and approximately 2500 miles of trails connecting hundreds of ruins similar to Machu Picchu. It is believed that Cusco was the center of the Incan Empire.

From Tambomachay, our group traveled to an alpaca farm. The farm sat behind a textile store where we learned about the raising and manufacturing of Alpaca, Vicuna, Cuanaco, and Llama wool. Baby Alpaca garments are made from only the first shearing of the Alpaca. We learned to tell the difference and purchased some Baby Alpaca gloves for our upcoming trip around South America in March. The weather at Cape Horn will require some warm garments.

Our next stop was the ruins at Saqsaywaman, a former Inca fortress perched atop the hill above Cusco, an ancient ruin with an eye-catching landscape. On a clear day, the views over the city and valley will take your breath away.

Saqsaywaman is an extraordinary site with three terraces built by the Incas for fortification purposes. Moreover, Saqsaywaman is a part of UNESCO sites in the Cusco area.

Fitting the huge boulders with surgical precision was the Inca’s trademark, and this site has some excellent structures proving this point. And the Incas did all this precise work without using a mortar. More than twenty thousand workers moved the massive chunks of stone from the local quarries without the knowledge of the wheel is just another mind-blowing piece of trivia.

Without any doubt, Saqsaywaman is one of the best ruins in Cusco.

Our next visit was another interesting Inca site, Q’enco. The rock carving done here is quite a feat. Floors, ceilings, walls, tables, and niches were carefully carved from living rock. Without a doubt, it was a place of worship for secret and hidden rites. The site builders completed their composition with service rooms on the perimeter. It also has platforms and channels for the evacuation of rainwater.

The mystery of the Andean cult is one of the attractions of the Inca culture. The so-called “Room of Sacrifices” creates doubts that have not yet been resolved. It is an underground chamber carved entirely out of a gigantic rock. The lower portion of the great rocky area has carved floors, ceilings, walls, tables, cupboards, and openings. It is said that this underground chamber may have been used to embalm dried apricots, but it is also possible that human and animal sacrifices were carried out there.

Our guide explained that important Inca leaders may have been buried here, with the common people being buried in graves nearby. He believes the “Room of Sacrifices” may have been a simple embalming room where the dead were prepared for burial. The platform in the chamber was very cold to the touch, making it an excellent place to perform this task.

We took the trail through the site, which led us through the Morticians Chamber and to a magnificent view of Cusco. The driver picked us up at the end of the trail.

We moved on to our next stop at Coricancha. It’s a place you can’t miss in Cusco for its amazing construction and the historical treasure adorning its walls. When the Spanish arrived in Cusco, they destroyed most of Coricancha, and the Santo Domingo Church was built on the foundations and the remaining walls of the temple, preserving only a small part of its indigenous beauty. These ruins are located in Santo Domingo Plaza in Cusco.

Coricancha was the center of Cusco in more ways than just geographical. It was also the religious center, a sacred place where appreciation was shown for Inti, the Inca Sun God. It was the only temple that existed for religious ceremonies and was the most sacred temple of all the Incas. To enter the temple, worshippers needed to have been barefoot, fasting, and carrying a heavy load upon their backs as a sign of humility to the god.

Many historians have written that once the Spanish arrived in Cusco, they were blinded by its grandeur; every wall was covered with a layer of gold, and there were deities everywhere to celebrate the different gods of the Inca Empire, such as a silver depiction of the Moon Goddess. The concentration of the precious metals made the whole area shine. There were animal figures made entirely from gold filling the gardens, and the Spaniards had never seen so much gold in one place before. Most of these pieces were sent to the King of Spain as a ‘thank you’ for allowing the expeditions to South America to take place.

We continued to the Cathedral of Cusco. No pictures were allowed inside the Cathedral. It was so beautiful that it left a lump in my throat. Regardless of your religious belief, this is one place that you don’t want to miss.

It has splendid altars of Renaissance, Baroque, and neoclassical styles. Its carved wooden pulpit and the choir stalls are magnificent works of Cusquenian craftsmanship. It also highlights its collection of canvases of the Cuzco school with works by Diego Quispe Tito, Basilio Santa Cruz Pumacallo, Basilio Pacheco, and Marcos Zapata, creator of a unique “last supper” in which the main dish is roasted guinea pig. The Sacristy is decorated with several paintings of the bishops who have ruled the Archbishopric of Cusco. The choir of the Cathedral is built of cedar wood, Baroque with Neoclassical style. The main altar of the Cathedral was decorated with the most important colonial gold and silver work in South America, using more than 1250 kilos of silver. There are around 300 paintings, which were the inspiration of different indigenous, mestizo, and European artists.

Cathedral of Cusco

This was the last stop with our original tour group. The tour company delivered us to our hotels after we visited Plaza de Armas (The Main Plaza). Our guide for the day shared a great photo of the group below. A couple of people were missing from the day’s tour. After a week in Peru, many were exhausted, and a few were under the weather or suffering from the altitude.

The other couple, Lee and Chelle, who were on the upgrade plan, went with us to a dinner that the tour company had organized. This replaced something that had to be canceled due to a shortage of interest. The four of us were picked up and transported to a restaurant on the main square. Our dinner and show were included in the package. While the show was entertaining, the authentic Peruvian food was not so good. It was good to have this opportunity to visit with them again before they departed. With the entire group leaving early the next morning, Jen and I would have two more days to adventure in Cusco.

We wished Lee and Chelle a fond farewell in the hotel lobby before leaving for the night. Jen and I had a couple of tours planned for our bonus days in Cusco. We wanted to be fresh and rested. The best was yet to come. If you’re thinking that this is a long post, you’re right. Don’t leave now, or you’ll miss the best of our Peru adventure. Still to come are more great Inca Ruins, the Salt Flats at Maranas, Rainbow Mountain, the Amazon Rain Forest, and purchasing some souvenirs along with Baby Alpaca treasures.

The next morning, we got up and had breakfast in the hotel. Our tour guide picked us up in front of the hotel, and off we went on a tour that ended up being private. When tours don’t fill up, they often cancel them, but in this case, we had the driver and tour guide all to ourselves. Our first adventure was at another textile place. We spent about a half hour sipping Cocoa Tea, learning about Alpaca wool, and shopping a bit. The people working here were all dressed in costume and had a great selection of things. The prices weren’t the best we had seen, and we were still timid about purchasing much before our final two domestic flights. We didn’t want to be overweight. We found one Baby Alpaca table runner that we bought.

Our next destination was our last Inca ruin, possibly one of the most unusual and memorable. Moray is believed to have served as an important agricultural research center for the Incas, demonstrating their advanced ability to cultivate various crops in the challenging Andean environment.

The site is best known for its three groups of circular terraces. Each of these terraces has 12 levels, with the largest depression having a spectacular diameter of 600 feet. From the highest terrace to the lowest, the descent is about 490 feet, making the Moray ruins one of the most fascinating man-made sites.

Many archaeologists and anthropologists believe the Moray ruins were once used for agricultural experiments. Some of the evidence that supports that is the extensive irrigation system (fueled by water from a reservoir located high in the mountains) engineered into the terraces.

Another fascinating observation is the temperature difference. From the highest to the lowest terrace, the temperature differs by 41 °F, and the sun hits each terrace at different angles and intensities.

The microclimate at Moray likely allowed the Incas to do agricultural research and identify the best conditions for crops to thrive. Even more, all this suggests that the Incas utilized their knowledge of the environment to capitalize on their natural resources.

While there is no written evidence, based on the agricultural practices in the Andean region, the Incas likely farmed crops such as potatoes and quinoa, as well as Amazonian plants suited to milder temperatures. Corn was likely another major crop cultivated at Moray due to its significance in different religious ceremonies in the Inca Empire.

The Entrance to the Salt Pools

From Moray, we continued to the salt mines of Maras. Like a blanket of snow covering the slopes of Andean mountains, they extend beautifully into the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It’s a spectacular view of more than 300 pools in various colorful shades. The salt mines are located in an orogenic depression called “Cachi Raqay,” a Quechua term that translates into Spanish means “salt gorge.” This gorge is located on the slopes of the Cruzmoqo mountain and at the base of the Llaully Moqo and Chupayoq Moqo mountains.

In the 1980s, the people of Maras took possession of the salt mines. They established the company Marasal S.A., owned by the communities of Maras and Pichingoto, which is responsible for managing and marketing salt for the domestic and world markets. Today, about 400 families own the salt pools. Each family manages their pools, contributing to the positive economy of the area.

On our last full day in Cusco, Jen and I enjoyed the best time in Peru. Our day started at 4:00 a.m. when the tour operator picked us up.  After two and a half hours, we stopped in the town of Japura for breakfast. Most of the way, the tour bus had been quiet while we and the eight other adventurers tried to get some sleep on the ride.

Rainbow Mountain

We were bound for Rainbow Mountain, a painted land unlike any other. The sweeping valley of vibrant colors, ranging from lavender, turquoise, and red, causes one to wonder how this is possible. The vibrant coloration in Rainbow Mountain’s layers is largely due to the weather and mineralogy. The red-tinted layers often indicate iron oxide rust as a trace mineral. Think of it like this: you know how a nail will rust and turn red when oxidized? The same reaction happens here. Specific sediment that is exposed to oxygen and water will change color. In addition, the sedimentary layers have been tilted on their side, exposing stripped intervals.

Not only is the mountain a beautiful place to reconnect with nature, but it is also a site of worship. Since pre-Inca times, Peruvians have believed Rainbow Mountain to be the deity of Cusco and refer to the land as an Apu (a worship site). To this day, the locals return to Rainbow Mountain for daily worship and to give offerings.

Our trek to Rainbow Mountain continued after a filling breakfast. The tour operator instructed us for our ATV adventure for the remainder of our ride. As the sun rose, the steep dirt road up the mountain had everyone’s attention. The vistas of the Andes Mountains with the rushing rivers below and beside the van kept our attention as the driver navigated the road.

Nearly an hour after breakfast, we reached the place where we hopped onto our ATVs and continued our journey. The views were spectacular, and the one-hour ride went by in a breeze. This was much better than hiking the entire distance to the summit of Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain). The tour operator instructed us that we had three options from that point. We could hike the remaining 1.5 km to the summit, ride with a native on a motorcycle, or take a horse. Despite the altitude, Jen and I opted to hike it. We felt good and capable of the distance. I should mention that the mountain has an altitude of 17,100 feet above sea level.

Our Happy Group.

The 35-minute hike was far longer for us. We underestimated the lack of oxygen and its effect on our bodies. Jen took a horse around the halfway point, and I continued on foot. I was the oldest of the ten adventurers and the only one to hike it in both directions. I was exhausted beyond belief.

The hike down was far easier, and the ATVs were waiting for our return to the tour bus. The bus ride from there was frightful. Many of our fellow adventurers refused to watch. On the return to Cusco, we stopped at the same place where we had breakfast for an authentic Peruvian lunch buffet. It was late afternoon when we were dropped back at our hotel.

We didn’t have to rush the following morning. We packed our backpacks with the essentials for three days in the Jungle and put the remainder in our suitcases to be stored at the dock in Puerto Maldonado. The anticipation of spending the next three days in the Amazon Rainforest drove our imagination. The tour company picked us up after breakfast and delivered us to the airport for our domestic flight.  We were heading into the jungle. Three days of complete isolation and electronic detox.

We arrived at Puerto Maldonado airport, which had two gates. The resort company picked us up and transferred us to the pier for the 45-minute boat ride along the winding Madre de Dios River for our Amazon adventure. The motorized wooden boat hugged the meandering riverbank to reach our lodge, Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, nestled in the heart of the rainforest. After a short briefing, we settled into our palm-thatched cabana in the private ecological reserve established to protect the sensitive environment. After unpacking and getting things figured out, we took a walk around the trails of the resort to immerse ourselves in the Amazon basin’s biodiversity and the rainforest’s layers. We wound our way through the towering trees while our ears tuned in to the croaks, rustles, and calls of the exotic wildlife inhabiting this rich ecosystem.

Our Cabana

Our guide at Inkaterra was the best of the best. He made sure we never had a dull moment during our visit. Some of our small group enjoyed the spa, while others couldn’t wait for the next adventure. We were split into two groups, with those who spoke English in one and Spanish speakers in another. Our guide, who spoke perfect English, had lived his entire life in the jungle. The first night, we had a twilight river excursion to witness the jungle transform from a diurnal to a nocturnal world. Great pictures are difficult at this time of night. We spotted some Caiman lurking in the water near the bank and heard the calls of the monkeys. We returned to the lodge for drinks and a fantastic dinner after our excursion. The food and drinks at the resort were top-notch.

Our guide took us to Lake Sandoval on the morning of the first full day. The lake was reached by taking the wood boat to Tambopata National Reserve. We hiked a sun-dappled jungle trail from the pier while our guide pointed out flora, fauna, and an occasional camouflaged creature.

When we reached the lake, we boarded a dug-out canoe to quietly paddle through the mangroves and glide onto Lake Sandoval, flanked by the palm jungle. The lake is home to thousands of species of birds, including the endangered giant otter, red howler monkeys, red-bellied macaws, anacondas, side-neck turtles, and black caiman. We didn’t see many of these, but I got pictures of some. Jen will tell you she’s thankful not to have seen an anaconda.

After our return to the resort, we enjoyed a great lunch before embarking on another adventure. The Inkaterra Canopy Walkway is a sophisticated 1,135-foot network of seven ecologically constructed hanging suspension bridges strung between eight treetop observation platforms above the forest floor. This was an unforgettable opportunity to observe the rainforest above the canopy, giving a sense of its colossal size. When we reached the first tower, Jen not only said no… she said hell, no. She and another adventurer, who also feared heights, declined to participate.

A tree in the jungle that was over 300 years old.

That night, we had torrential rain, which dampened our ability to adventure the following morning. This is what anyone may expect in the middle of the Amazon Rainforest. We relaxed with a book in the lodge and waited for another adventure opportunity. Many people we arrived with were departing, and others were filtering in. We met some very interesting people. After the rain stopped and we enjoyed a beautiful lunch, our guide tracked us down and asked if we would like to have a tour of the Lagoon at Hacienda Concepcion, a sister resort thirty minutes upstream from ours. It formally functioned as a medical center set up by Catholic missionaries in the 1950s and a center for ecological research. With over 200 different plant species, the rainforest is often considered the world’s largest pharmacy. We would take a hike through the jungle to the lagoon and a thirty-minute canoe ride in the shallow backwaters of the river. We jumped at the opportunity.

The time had passed too quickly, and we were winding down our last day in the Jungle. After another delicious dinner, our expert guide took us, armed with flashlights, into the jungle for a two-hour adventure. Under the cover of darkness, our senses were heightened by the movements in the undergrowth and nocturnal forest sounds appearing from all directions. On our adventure, we, again, didn’t encounter any anaconda but saw some of the creepiest bugs anywhere.

Our time in the jungle was delightful, but we had to pack our bags for a 6:00 a.m. departure. The lodge turned on the hot water for showers at 4:30, the chef had our breakfast ready at 5:00, and we were going up the river toward our place of beginning by sunrise.

We boarded our flight to Miami with a long layover in Lima and a second layover in Panama City. The trip was a long day of travel. We claimed our luggage in Lima and went to a hotel to regroup and enjoy a few more hours in the city where our adventure began. We ordered an Uber and returned to the mall on the cliff, where we took what we learned about purchasing Baby Alpaca garments and found a store to buy a couple of beautiful sweaters. The sweaters will be wonderful on our next adventure cruising the perimeter of South America in March. The weather will be cool as we round Cape Horn and take an excursion to the Falkland Islands, where we will see penguins. After our shopping trip, we repacked and napped to prepare for our continued flight to Miami.

When we landed in Miami, we rented a car and drove north through Alligator Alley to our condo in Port Charlotte. The time in Port Charlotte allowed us to prepare our condo for the arrival of our snowbird tenants and enjoy the holidays with family. I hoped for a couple of book events to promote my new fiction thriller, Murder in Eagle Cove. The events didn’t pan out due to the holidays. I did, however, connect with a great little bookstore, Copperfish Books, in Punta Gorda, where we hope soon to have the book available. My family were great sports, posing for fan photos during our visit.

Murder in Eagle Cove is available wherever books and digital media are sold. Click here for a list of retailers to order now or leave a review. Reviews help others find the book.

Thank you for enjoying our recent adventure vicariously through us. Peru was one of the most amazing places we have visited.

If you haven’t subscribed, please click the link to have the blog delivered to your inbox each time we post (around ten per year). Subscribing to the blog will open the opportunity to subscribe to our free weekly newsletter delivered every Monday morning from Panama. We never spam our subscribers and will never sell our distribution list. We only promote places and vendors whom we would truly return.

Blessings from Panama,

Greg and Jen

Murder on the Beach A Detective Larry Saunders Short Story

Aside from the roaring waves, the beach on Cape Cod Bay was quiet and peaceful. The families had retreated with the sun, and the couple was alone, settled comfortably on a blanket just short of the pounding surf. The silence between the roar of each crashing wave gave her time to ponder what she had to say.

“I have something to tell you,” she said. “There’s someone else.”

“What do you mean?” he stammered.

“I’m sleeping with someone else. It was time you knew.”

“What do you mean you’re sleeping with someone else? I thought we had something special.”

“I don’t love you,” she replied without remorse, relieved to have it off her chest.

He found breathing difficult, gasping and sucking in air as another wave crashed. The ocean’s rage consumed every inch of his body as he stood, red in the face and quivering. She just sat dumbfounded as he grasped a large piece of driftwood and began to bludgeon her. He started with her head as she screamed. He beat her until her body was lifeless, beating, beating, beating while his rage began to subside.

He stumbled backward from the body, staring and shaking with one lone tear trickling down his face. The driftwood fell from his grasp as he watched wave after wave crash on the shore. He had no idea how much time passed as he stood in shock. Before he turned to leave, the tide had begun approaching the lifeless body, and waves lapped under it, washing her into the surf. The sand squished between his toes as he turned and stumbled across the moonlit beach to the dark trail leading to the parking lot. Not a soul was on the beach to witness his brutal loss of control.

As he crested the trail into the parking lot, moonlight gave way to the overhead lights, throwing long shadows. Under the eerie glow of the parking lot, he was becoming aware of his surroundings and the magnitude of what had just happened. He had killed the girl he loved and was covered head to foot in blood spatter.

The young couple parked at the beach. Only one other vehicle was parked here, and they would have the beach to themselves. They could hardly keep their hands off each other, exiting the car grabbing a blanket and cooler from the back seat. He grabbed at her as she giggled and ran toward the beach. She didn’t see the man emerge from the trail, smacking right into his wet, sweaty body. She noticed the smell of his sweat reeked of fear before noticing that his clothes and hands were covered in blood. She quickly backed away, apologizing, hoping he would continue. The man said nothing, sidestepping her and continuing to his truck.

Looking down at herself before her boyfriend got to her side, she realized she was covered in blood from bumping into the stranger. Adrenaline rocked her body as her arms and legs began to shake. She sat down on a large rock at the edge of the lot while her boyfriend consoled her. He memorized the license plate of the stranger’s truck as it raced from the parking lot.

“Call nine-one-one,” she said. “Something is wrong here.”

Without a word, her boyfriend took his phone and made the call, telling the operator about the stranger emerging from the beach covered in blood. He provided their location information and was asked to wait for an officer to arrive.

“No way was I going out onto the beach now anyway,” his girlfriend said, still shaking with fear. “What if the guy comes back? Are we safe here?”

“I think we’ll be safe. The police are on their way,” he said, reaching into the cooler and opening a Coke Zero for her.

Her hands shook as she took the soda, and the two shared it while they waited silently for the police to arrive.

The wait was short. Eagle Cove police officer Larry Saunders responded to the dispatch call for an unusual situation at the beach parking lot. Saunders was a veteran of the small Eagle Cove Police Department. Eagle Cove, Massachusetts, is a small, friendly community where people enjoy safe streets and an absence of violent crime. Larry had never investigated a murder.

When he drove into the parking lot with the red and blue lights flashing, he quickly spotted the individual who made the nine-one-one call waving his arms by the rocks leading to the beach trail. Larry pulled up to the couple sitting on the rocks, immediately registering the young lady trembling, covered in blood transfer.

He asked what happened in as compassionate a voice as he could muster. The young couple related the story to him while he jotted down notes. He called for backup from the Plymouth County Sheriff’s Department, giving details of the strange man covered in blood and the make, model, and license of the truck he had left driving.

“Do you mind waiting here for the sheriff’s deputy while I look around on the beach,” Larry asked.

“We’ll be okay,” replied the young man.

Larry grabbed the flashlight from his belt and used it to guide his way onto the beach trail. Once he emerged onto the beach, the moonlight bolstered his ability to see. It was easy to follow the barefoot tracks of the stranger. Spots of blood glistened in the beam of his flashlight, making the tracks easy to follow. Larry avoided stepping near the tracks, proceeding cautiously in their direction.

He found the young woman’s body, about forty feet from the trail, bobbing in the surf, partially tangled in a blanket. Floating nearby was a blood-stained piece of driftwood and two pairs of flip-flops. Larry photographed the scene with his cellphone before calling for the coroner and crime scene team. He asked that Plymouth County put an APB on the truck the stranger had left in. The tide was still coming in. Larry was forced to compromise the scene before it did it for him. He slipped on latex gloves and dragged the body from the water, moving it further up on the beach. He then collected the flip-flops and driftwood before returning to the trailhead and making a video of the barefoot tracks in the sand. Reviewing the recording to ensure he captured the blood droplets before Mother Nature washed away the evidence. He walked back through the trail and asked the couple to send the crime scene team in when they arrived. He also apologetically requested them not to let anyone else enter the beach. It will be a long night, Larry thought, turning and returning to the beach.

As one of only three patrol officers in the tiny Eagle Cove police department, the responsibility of solving this murder will fall squarely on Larry’s shoulders. He stood on the beach while the surf pounded. His hair was standing on the back of his neck. He looked around for more clues, pondering the terrible act of violence that had taken place here. His hands shook, and anger surged through his extremities. He wondered who could do such a thing to this beautiful young woman.

It seemed like forever before the crime scene team and the coroner arrived. They took control of the scene while Larry shared his pictures with the deputy in charge. He monitored the radio carefully, awaiting an apprehension of the stranger who had stumbled into the parking lot and driven away in his truck. He interviewed the young couple while waiting for the coroner and crime scene team to leave, recording their statements in his spiral notebook. After getting their contact information, the crime scene technician asked for the young woman’s stained clothes. He provided her with a Tyvek suit to change into, and she went behind their car to change, complying with the request. After her clothes were bagged, Larry told them they could go, thanking them for their help.

Soon, the body was brought from the beach and loaded into the coroner’s van. The scene was cleared, and everyone left, leaving Larry to begin his investigation. Before he reached the station, a call came across to radio of the truck and driver detained near the outskirts of Eagle Cove. A Plymouth County sheriff’s deputy had stopped the vehicle in response to the APB posted earlier. Larry turned on lights and sirens, racing to the scene of the stop. When he arrived, he found the sheriff’s deputy standing at the side of the truck, talking to the man inside. Upon joining the conversation, Larry noted the man was still covered in blood spatter, shaking and speechless. He had refused to say anything to the deputy.

Larry and the deputy walked to the truck’s rear to evaluate the situation and devised a plan to arrest the individual on suspicion of murder. Larry would transport him to Eagle Cove Police Station for questioning. The deputy would wait for a wrecker to haul the truck to the crime lab at Plymouth County. The deputy called in the arrest while Larry returned to the truck’s window.

“I’m going to ask you to exit the vehicle with your hands in clear view,” Larry said.

The man popped open his door and got out, raising his blood-soaked, shaking hands. Larry put cuffs on him, took him to his cruiser, and deposited him in the back seat. He got into the driver’s seat and took off for the station without hesitation. On the short ride, he called the chief, requesting that he meet him at the station. Once parked at the curb in front of the station, he took his prisoner inside and into an interview room. There, he cuffed him to the ring in the center of the stainless-steel table and relieved him of his personal belongings before leaving him to think about what would happen next.

While he waited for the chief to arrive, he called in wants and warrants on the man. He learned there were no outstanding warrants and, by the address on the driver’s license, he was a resident of Eagle Cove. He checked to be sure the recording equipment in the interview room was playing in the conference room adjacent to where the man sat cuffed to the table. He watched the man shaking and whimpering inside. Making good use of his time, he printed out each of the pictures from his phone on the color printer and a copy of the Miranda rights form. Larry was ready to begin his interview when the chief arrived at the station. He laid the pictures out for the chief to see and explained that this man was suspected of killing a young woman on the beach. “I’m going to go in and interview him now.”

“I’ll observe from the conference room,” the chief replied.

Larry entered the interview room with his shoulders back and a firm, confident stance. He carried a file folder, which he dropped on the table in front of the suspect. Staring into his deep blue eyes, Larry began reading the suspect his rights. “Do you understand your rights as I have explained them to you?”

“Yes,” he stammered.

“For the record, state your name.”

“Roger Clark.”

Mr. Clark, here’s a copy of your rights as I have read them to you. It states that you’re talking to me of your own free will,” Larry said while taking the Miranda rights form from the file and putting it in front of the suspect.

Clark read the form while his body shook from adrenaline. His red face was barely noticeable from the blood spatter still present but smeared from wiping his hand across it. Larry released one side of the cuffs and laid the pen down for him to sign the form. Larry was surprised to see his suspect manipulate the paper so he could hold it with his right hand and sign with his left. He continued to shake and whimper, volunteering nothing. With the form signed, Larry took the pen back and gave him a bottle of water.

“Where have you been tonight?” Larry asked.

“I had a date that ended early,” Clark responded.

Larry’s eyes widened, and he attempted to stare into his suspect’s eyes. Clark refused eye contact. Larry took the pictures of the woman who had been bludgeoned to death on the beach from his folder and began laying them down one by one on the table. “Did your date die on the beach tonight?”

Clark refused to answer, staring down at the table but avoiding even a glance at the pictures.

“Look at the pictures, Mr. Clark. Did you beat that woman to death on the beach?” Larry waited a moment without a response. “Why do you have blood all over yourself? Is that her blood from the terrible beating you gave her?” Still no response. Clark continued whimpering and shaking uncontrollably. “What did she do to deserve to be beaten like that?”

“I want a lawyer,” Clark finally said.

“Makes no difference to me,” Larry replied, taking the pictures of the flip-flops and the driftwood out and placing them in front of him. I’m sure that we’ll find your fingerprints and DNA on these items. “Where’re your shoes? You may need them when we take you to county for booking.”

Clark remained silent as Larry stood and left the interview room.

The chief met Larry outside the room and asked about transporting the suspect to county. The tiny station had nobody else working this late, so Larry asked the chief to transport the suspect with him. Chief agreed. They got a pair of Tyvek booties from the storage room and slipped them on the suspect before loading him into the back of Larry’s cruiser. The ride was quiet, with the suspect sitting in the back, silently shaking and mumbling.

Upon arrival at Plymouth County jail, the suspect was fingerprinted and booked for murder. They took his clothes, providing him with an orange jumpsuit. His clothes were bagged and sent to the crime lab before he was allowed to make a call and lodged in a cell.

Larry arrived early at the station the following day and began combing through the report from the crime lab. The blood on Roger Clark’s clothes was a match for the victim. His fingerprints had been lifted from the driftwood, and the flip-flops retrieved from the beach were confirmed as his size. The truck, which had been impounded, and a search warrant obtained. A purse in the truck contained identification matching the victim. Larry called the coroner to confirm the identity of the victim. The coroner confirmed a match to the identification found in Clark’s truck. He asked the coroner to send over his report as soon as possible.

He began drafting his report while waiting for the coroner’s report to be faxed. By the time he had finished his task, the coroner’s report had arrived, and he could attach it and the crime scene investigators’ report to his. He then drove to the victim’s address to make the notification. This was a task to which Larry did not look forward. He didn’t know who he would find at the address. It could be a roommate, or it could be her parents. In any case, he didn’t discount the possibility that someone there may be able to add motive to the vicious crime.

Larry parked his cruiser in front of a run-down apartment building just off the highway. He located the unit number and checked his appearance before knocking on the door. A young woman answered with a puzzled look on her face.

“Is this the home of Sheila Wheaton?” he asked.

“She lives here, but she’s not home. What’s this about?” the young woman answered.

“I’m Officer Larry Saunders with the Eagle Cove police, and I’m investigating a crime that happened last night. Are you related to Miss Wheaton?”

“No. I’m her roommate.”

“Does she have any family in the area?” he asked.

“Her parents live over near the school. I don’t know the exact address.”

“Do you know where your roommate may be?” he asked.

“She had a date last night and never came home.”

“Is that unusual?”

“It didn’t seem right last night. I thought when she left that she would break up with him.”

“Do you know who she was out with?”

“Yes. It was Roger Clark.”

“Thank you so much for your help. I’ll be in touch if I have more questions,” Larry said while handing her his card.

He returned to his car and ran a search for any Wheaton’s who lived near the school. His search returned one result very near his own home. Starting the car, he drove away from the curb, heading to what he presumed would be the address of the victim’s parents. When arriving at the home, he parked in front of a house resembling his own, only two blocks from the school. He got out, walked to the door, and rang the bell. It was answered by a pleasant-looking woman about forty years old with platinum blond hair, wearing a robe and clutching a cup of coffee. She quieted the dog inside, pushing the door open just far enough to keep it from escaping.

“Good morning,” he said. “I’m Officer Larry Saunders with the Eagle Cove police. Is Sheila Wheaton your daughter?”

“Why yes. What is this about?”

“Mrs. Wheaton, may I come in to talk with you?”

“Sure. Just let me put Cocoa in another room,” she said while closing the door, leaving Larry standing on the stoop.

Moments later, she returned to the door with a man resembling her in age. Larry presumed it was her husband. Reaching out to shake his hand, he introduced himself.

“I’m Joe Wheaton,” he said. “Is there a problem with Sheila?”

“May we sit down?” Larry asked.

Mrs. Wheaton showed him into the living room, where they all took seats. Larry perched on the edge of his chair, making eye contact with the parents of his murder victim. “I’m sorry to tell you that your daughter has died.”

The Wheaton’s just stared at Larry in disbelief. The lack of emotion confused Larry momentarily as the shock of hearing his news wore off, and both began to break down. “What happened?” Joe Wheaton asked.

“I’m afraid she was killed last night on the beach,” Larry answered. “I’m investigating to get to the bottom of it. Do you know her boyfriend, Roger?”

“Yes, but I thought she was ending it with him,” Mrs. Wheaton sobbed, wiping her tears away with the sleeve of her robe.

“Evidence suggests that Roger may have killed your daughter. We have him in custody,” Larry responded. “Do you know of any reason he would want to hurt her?”

Joe went into a complete emotional breakdown, standing and excusing himself. Mrs. Wheaton continued to cry without leaving her seat. “He was madly in love with Sheila, but she didn’t feel the same about him,” she said.

“I’m sorry for your loss,” Larry said. “I’ll do everything possible to bring the person who did this to justice.” Larry hesitated as the victim’s father returned to the room, offering his wife a tissue. “I will be in touch if I have any further questions. Your daughter is at the Plymouth County Medical Examiner’s office. They will contact you to have you come in for an identification. Is there anything I can do for you right now?”

“No. Thank you for coming to let us know,” Joe said, standing to show Larry out.

Larry idled at the curb before taking the driver’s license picture to the witness to identify the guy who bumped into her at the beach parking lot. He looked at his notes and programmed his GPS for her address. Driving deep in thought, he journeyed to her address halfway between Eagle Cove and Plymouth. Parking in front, he assumed it was the home of her parents. The upscale neighborhood told him he might be met at the door by someone other than the witness he hoped to speak with.

He was happy to see the young woman he had met last night come out the door to meet him as he walked up the sidewalk.

“Well, good morning,” he said, looking her up and down. “You look much better this morning. Are you doing okay?”

“Yes,” she replied. “That situation last night had to be one of the worst experiences of my life. You should have seen my mother’s look when I showed up at home in a hazmat suit.”

“I can only imagine. I have some pictures to show you. Would that be okay?”

“Sure.”

Larry produced copies of several driver’s license photos, including that of the suspect in custody, asking her to identify the guy last night.

A shiver went up her spine as she examined the photos, causing her to shake as she pointed to the image of Clark. “Did you catch him?”

“Yes, we have him in custody.”

“Did he hurt someone on the beach?” she asked.

“We believe he murdered his girlfriend.”

“That’s scary. Will I be safe?”

“Of course. When we prove he did it, he will be in prison for a long time. The evidence is strong, and it looks like I have a strong young lady as a witness that he was there,” he said with a confident smile. “I won’t take any more of your time. I appreciate your help,” he said, turning to leave.

Authors Note: This story was meant to be shared with Newsletter readers only. A glitch in the system caused it to be distributed to the entire readers list. I have added this note post edit. It is entirely a work of fiction for entertainment only. If you enjoyed the Detective Larry short story. Consider preordering the book at: https://books2read.com/MurderInEagleCove

Incredible Adventures Boca Chica and Boquete

There are no words to describe how amazing our recent adventures were. We have experienced whale watching on one other occasion without disappointment, but it was nothing compared to our recent trip to the Gulf of Chiriquí in Boca Chica.

We traveled with two other couples to Boca Chica, where we checked into our favorite resort, Regalo. Jen and I stayed at Regalo Resort on one other occasion, and we found it just as beautiful and charming as we remembered. The resort is wonderfully remote while convenient to the public pier at Boca Chica.  The proprietors, Carol and Jenni, have recently put in a pickleball court and converted the helipad into a bahio, where they host yoga retreats. They tell us that the resort is booked at capacity for most of the year, and they’re planning a minor expansion.

Regalo Resort

They employ a full-time chef, a bartender, and maid staff to serve the guests. The entire staff met us upon our arrival. They collected our bags and whisked them away to our suites while we checked in and were treated to a welcome cocktail at the bar. Dinner is typically offered in two choices, with other options for those with special diets or needs. We were given our options for dinner and asked what time we wanted to eat.

A table was set up on the pool deck for our party of six and another for the other guests in the resort. The other guests were a family of four from Florida who had spent the day deep sea fishing. They told us of the magnificent time they had and were asking Carol how they could transport their catch back to Florida. This seemed to me a near impossibility, but Carol was preparing their fish for the trip, packing it in a cooler with ice.

The resort can arrange any adventure from the public pier at Boca Chica. On our prior trip, we did an island-hopping boat tour with an excellent captain, Victor. Our tour started on Isla Bolanos, where we could swim and soak in the wondrous sights and sounds of the Gulf of Chiriquí. The second stop was Isla Paridas, where we enjoyed a great lunch. It was the only island with commerce. We saw just one small house serving drinks and fresh seafood, so we took the opportunity to restock our cooler and have Red Snapper served with salad, rice, and patacones. Following lunch, we swam on the beautiful beach before heading to our third island, Isla Gomez. It was a tiny, uninhabited island with a perfect beach. We did not have to share this island with anyone else. Captain Victor gave us an hour to swim and enjoy the beach before returning us to the pier at Boca Chica.

That day, we shared the boat with a Panamanian family. The couple and their well-behaved children were bi-lingual and spoke English to us. They ended up joining us for dinner at Regalo. It’s no surprise that they have become lifelong friends. It always amazes us how welcoming and friendly the Panamanian people are.

After returning to the pier, we walked around a bit in the village. There was truly little to see and do there. Boca Chica is a basic little town of fishermen and tourist boat excursions. This is a popular destination for whale watching. The whales migrate to the Gulf of Chiriquí from August to October. This is where whales give birth because of its safe, warm waters. Otherwise, everyone there had an agenda of fishing, sightseeing, or scuba diving. This was not whale season, so we saw no whales on our excursion. There were no cute little shops or restaurants, so we returned to Regalo for a relaxed evening meal with our new friends.

Our priority on this trip to Boca Chica was to see whales. From July to October, the humpback whales arrive in the Gulf of Chiriquí after their long journey from Antarctica to have their young and teach them to survive. The waters here are perfect for breeding as they must be warm and safe. This offers well-being and protection to their babies, who must be born with fat to resist the cold temperatures.

Adult males measure between 12 and 14 meters, somewhat smaller than females. An adult humpback whale can measure between 15 and 18 meters and live up to 50 years. Its weight ranges between 25 and 40 tons.

On Tuesday, we went to the pier, where we met our guide for the day, Jay. He proved to be an expert at finding whales. Although the location of the whales is sometimes tricky, Jay knew where to go and gave us the show of a lifetime.

Our day included a stop at Isla Paridas, where we had stopped on our previous adventure, to have a delightful lunch of fresh langostinos (shrimp).

Our day ended at the resort, where we swam in the beautiful infinity pool, enjoying drinks prepared and served by the bartender while the chef prepared another delightful meal.

My Filet Mignon with mashed potatoes and salad.

After extreme adventuring, we visited with our gracious hosts, and all turned in early. Carol and Jenni posed for a fan photo. We don’t often endorse or recommend places unless we would return. This is a place we will return again and again. See my September 11, 2023, issue 154 Newsletter for a link to this magnificent place.

Jenni and Carol

I would be remiss if I didn’t say here that the breakfast at Regalo is delightful and included in the price for a night. They served fruit and a breakfast selection with juice and fresh coffee from the Chiriquí highlands of Boquete both mornings. One of the couples we traveled with arranged an extra day in Boquete to tour a local coffee finca (farm).

Following our delightful breakfast on Wednesday morning, we drove to Boquete. The drive was beautiful and relatively short. If you’ve ever driven in Panama, you know the roads in parts of the country are not so great. The Inter-Americana Highway from Santiago to David is relatively new and in excellent shape.

On our initial trip to Boquete, we journeyed in one day. The entire trip is about 400km, taking approximately five hours without stops. We’ve been there three times with no shortage of adventure stories.

Boquete is a small mountain town in Panama. It’s located in the westernmost Province of Chiriquí, about 60 kilometers (37 mi) from the border with Costa Rica, and lies on the Caldera River in Panama’s green mountain highlands. Because of its elevation of 1,200 meters (3,900 ft) above sea level, its climate is cooler than the lowlands. Its scenic location, temperature, and natural environment make it popular with Panamanians and attracts tourists and retirees from all over the world.

Archaeological studies support the idea that Boquete’s history started between 300 AD to 600 BC. In this region, you can find petroglyphs (prehistoric rock carvings) that are evidence of the ancient settlements in the area. During the Spanish colonization, the highland area was an isolated refuge for the indigenous tribes like the Ngöbe and the Misquito due to the topographic terrain. The colonization of Boquete began in the second half of the nineteenth century by locals from Bugaba, Gualaca, and David and foreigners from Yugoslavia, France, Germany, and other European countries. Colonizers also arrived from the United States, starting the first coffee plantations and agricultural farms. In Spanish, the word Boquete means ‘gap or opening.’ It was through this gap that curious gold seekers trekked, looking for a cheaper and quicker way to the Pacific. By the early twentieth century, several villages had been populated: Lino, Quiel, Bajo Mono, Los Naranjos, and Bajo Boquete, which now is the town center of the district.

The town of Boquete has a population of around 25,000, including around 2500 expats from all over the world. It also has some of the most beautiful waterfalls, flowers, hundreds of bird species, butterflies, and hiking.

It should be no surprise that Boquete hosts a couple of Panama’s biggest festival celebrations. It is the perfect setting to stimulate artistic ability and creative talent, making it ideal for hosting the annual Boquete Jazz and Blues Festival.

Boquete boasts a vibrant music and arts scene. The annual Boquete Jazz Festival was founded in 2007, the second-largest jazz festival in the country after the Panama City Jazz Festival. Having been renamed Boquete Jazz & Blues Festival, it’s held annually in February. Since 2012, the event has showcased first-class international Blues acts and notable Panamanian and Latin American artists featuring Jazz and Latin American music styles. It was the first festival in Panama to do so. These entertainers are a great success! According to friends who have attended the festival, it features outstanding talent. As people walk about, they say there are smiles on every face, dancing, and great fun. This has been described as a great community event for all.  My information tells me the festival is moving from Boquete in 2024 to the Buenaventura Resort on the Pacific Riviera.

The Boquete Flower Festival has been held annually from around January 11th through the 21st since 1984. Our good friends attended the festival, and this is how they described what they found. The festival is held in the Feria grounds on the east bank of the Boquete River near an old cable suspension bridge. The bridge is indeed an engineering wonder as, despite its dilapidated condition, it still stands and carries traffic. They found a festival atmosphere with at least 200 stalls. Local artisans displayed everything from local native costumes to coffee, handicrafts, food, beer stands, and magnificent flowers. The army of gardeners had done a masterful job keeping the 30,000-plus blooms bright and well-watered despite the drying winds and tropical sun. Given the altitude and climate, it was apparent that the organizers had gone to great lengths to pick the most attractive and durable plants. Our friends saw everything from petunias and pansies to beautiful bright chrysanthemums. In the center, they found a display by the local orchid society. These blooms were indeed the jewel in the Feria’s crown and as exotic and exquisite as the orchid name implies.

On their drive from David north to Boquete, they noticed, with the change in climate from hot and humid to cool and refreshing, multicolored flowers were abundant along the roadside and in the ditches. It was easy for them to understand why Boquete is Panama’s flower capital. They also told me that missing the vegetable display would have been tragic. The abundant vegetables in the area are responsible for the fantastic food found in the restaurants locally. Based on my experience, Boquete always has something great to enjoy.

Visitors to Boquete are frequently invited to visit the Tuesday Market because it is such an integral part of the community. The Tuesday Market activities have been a big success, both commercially speaking and in integrating the locals and the expatriates working side by side. Any Tuesday visit to Boquete must include a visit to the Market. We have visited there on two previous occasions.

The last time we were there, we took a hike on the Pipeline Trail, explored the countryside, and hiked the hanging bridges of Tree Trek. We were traveling with my writing group, and Detective Larry was conceived at the same hotel where we stayed on this trip. I am anxious to share the first of the Detective Larry Saunders Mysteries, Murder in Eagle Cove. It is scheduled for release on November 1st, 2023. Newsletter subscribers are getting advance notice of special events and some surprises. Subscribing to the Newsletter is simple and free. You likely received an invitation to subscribe when you opened this blog post. If you didn’t get the invitation or skipped over it, send me a private message. Include your name and email address so I can add you to the distribution list.

Our agenda for this visit was to enjoy some outstanding local restaurants and take an excursion to the top of Volcan Baru. The Volcan excursion was one I never thought we would be able to do. The journey to the top is at least a four-hour hike in each direction. For an old, out-of-shape senior citizen, this is unattainable. Fortunately, we found a tour company offering transportation to the summit by four-wheel drive ATV.

We arrived in town with time to explore before stopping at a local favorite, Big Daddy’s, for lunch. After a relaxing lunch, we went to Boquete Garden Inn for the next two nights. The inn has a happy hour at six every evening and a complimentary breakfast each morning. We settled into our rooms and met our fellow travelers for a glass of wine in the hotel’s delightful bar. Our dinner reservations were at The Rock. It’s considered one of the finest restaurants in town. I may get hate mail for this, but let’s say it’s not likely to be a place where I would return. Our dinner bill was the highest of our adventure, and it was just average food. The highlight of the experience was a marshmallow roast at the firepit in the outside dining area after our meal.

We met our tour operator on Thursday morning in front of the inn at 3:30 a.m. The early departure meant we would drive to the summit of Volcán Barú in the dark to see the sunrise over the Caribbean if the weather cooperated.

Volcán Barú, also called Volcán de Chiriquí, is an active stratovolcano and the tallest mountain in Panama, at 3,474 meters (11,398 ft) high. It is about 35 km (22 mi) from the border of Costa Rica. It’s also the twelfth-highest peak in Central America.

Due to its height and the narrowness of the isthmus of Panama, it is possible (though relatively rare) to see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from Volcán Barú’s peak on a clear day.

The small town of Volcán is at the base of Volcán Barú. The erosion of a small river there exposed an ancient forest below, dated to about 1000 years old. Volcán Barú is surrounded by a fertile area of cool highlands drained by the Chiriquí Viejo and Caldera Rivers. The towns of Volcán and Cerro Punta can be found on its western side, while Boquete is on the eastern flank.

The occasional fall of hail or ice pellets has been reported on the summit, where the minimum temperature can be below 0 °C (32 °F), and frost formation is frequent during the dry season. The peak is host to a large installation of broadcast towers.

It has been determined that El Barú volcano is active and part of the extension of the Central American Volcanic Arc in Panama. In 2006, an earthquake swarm was registered in the Volcán Barú area. This was not the first; researchers cite at least three other seismic events recorded recently (1930, 1965, 1985).

In 2007, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), in cooperation with Panama’s Science, Technology, and Innovation Secretariat (SENACYT) and the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID), published a study on different aspects of Volcán Barú. The report outlined potential hazard areas, rock composition, and areas affected by previous eruptions; there is evidence that during the last eruption, which occurred in the 16th century, the debris avalanche deposits covered an area reaching as far as the Pacific Ocean (the largest documented in Central America and nearly ten times the area covered by the Mt. St. Helens debris avalanche in 1980).

Data collected at several locations from four previous eruptions during the last 1600 years indicate that a new eruption would last several years, putting population and costly infrastructure at risk in the areas surrounding the volcano. Typical events during such volcanic episodes include pyroclastic flows, super-heated gas clouds rapidly descending the volcano’s east flank, conceivably reaching as far as Boquete, Alto Boquete, and the Caldera River, and fallout of ash and other particles ranging in size from dust to one-meter blocks, known as tephra, causing fires, roof collapses, water contamination, crop damage and eye and lung irritation, especially among elders and infants. A third type of event, mud and debris flows, known as lahars, create landslides, obstruct river courses, and could have long-term effects in the zone. The severity of these events is directly related to the lava flows and their interaction with underground water deposits.

The volcano was declared Volcán Barú National Park in 1976, with an area of 14,325 ha (35,400 acres). It’s a part of the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor. Fauna includes the black guan, black-and-white hawk-eagle, Underwood’s water mouse, volcano junco, wren thrush, and yellow-thighed brush finch. Over 250 species of birds have been identified within the park, and all five species of big cats live here as well. The national park protects various habitats, including humid montane forests, low humid montane forests, and montane rainforests.

The park’s most popular hiking trail is the Sendero Los Quetzales (Los Quetzales Trail), which connects Boquete with Cerro Punta and wraps around the side of the volcano. The trail takes around 6 hours to hike. There is another trail to the top of the volcano, but this is long, steep, and strenuous.

On our visit, we could see the Pacific coast clearly while clouds shrouded the Caribbean side of the volcano. The summit is the only destination in Panama where there has ever been snow. It was about 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit) when we reached the top. There was no snow, but the 25-mph wind was unforgiving. The volcano has seven craters, which are all visible from the top. The Volcan Baru National Park allows only fifteen vehicles to make the ascent to the summit daily, and there were two others there on Thursday morning. The road to the top is roughly thirteen km of extreme rocks and ruts. Our driver, Melissa, was very skilled and delivered us safely to the top and back. The park only allows qualified, experienced drivers to make the journey. We followed another driver from her company in both directions. The two groups included our group of six, another guy who paid for a private tour, two drivers, and a guide. There was one stop along the way to clear rocks from the road for passage. I understand that hikers can no longer hike up in the dark of night. Camping at the summit is also no longer allowed. I believe the other tour company delivered some individuals to the top who would make the hike down. In any case, it is a challenging hike for even the most experienced hikers.

While at the top, our tour operator made us breakfast while we stood in awe of the magnificent sunrise views and the surrounding vistas. The trek was about two hours in each direction. Each time a vehicle makes the trip to the top, it is taken immediately for a complete inspection. She says replacing the tires, shocks, and brakes is commonly a short cycle. The ride down was a bit more daunting than the ride to the top. One of our fellow travelers arrived at the bottom with bruised ribs from the descent.

I cultivated some of the history and geography from Wikipedia, while some came from our guide.

Our dinner plans on Thursday night took us to RetroGusto. This was one of the best meals of the week, in my opinion. I rarely share pictures of food, but the image below is of my entree. I enjoyed the smoked pork chop. I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting Boquete. The restaurants in Boquete are a treat, and we all wished we could experience more of them. We have been to RetroGusto on one other trip to Boquete, and the experience both times was delightful.

The smoked Pork Chop
The smoked Pork Chop

On a previous trip there, we enjoyed Mesa Azul, which we recommend. We enjoyed a great meal at George’s Grill on our first trip. I related a great story in the first edition of 2 Retire In Panama? from George’s, but some readers had terrible experiences there, so I will refrain from recommending it.

Friday morning, we enjoyed a delightful breakfast at the Boquete Garden Inn before checking out and heading home. This hotel has been renovated and remains a favorite place in Boquete. We always find great new friends while visiting. On our drive back to Coronado, we found Dona Gladys. This was a stop Jen and I made on our first trip to Boquete, and I stated in the first edition of 2 Retire in Panama? that I didn’t think we would ever find it again.

I always recommend spending several months on the ground here in Panama before deciding where to retire. The consensus of our group was that Boquete is a beautiful place to visit for many reasons, but a little damp and cool. We’re pretty happy living in the beach community of Coronado. Go and explore the country and draw your own conclusion.

Our next great adventure is less than two weeks away. We are traveling to the Mayan Riviera of Mexico, near Cancun. We plan to visit Tulum and enjoy other sites near our resort. Watch for posts on social media in the weekly newsletter, and be sure to return to read our next blog post. If you’ve yet to subscribe to this blog or the newsletter, please do it. I have kept the content free and have never spammed my readers. We love you all and love sharing our adventures.

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Is there violent crime in Panama?

Jen and I went to dinner with our good friends, Mike and Diane, to celebrate one last meal with them at one of our favorite places in the community. They were returning to the States after concluding the sale of their condo. They decided to downsize to only one home and simplify their life.

After settling into our seats, we enjoyed our meals and relaxed in great conversation about some of the adventures and things we have experienced as friends here. True friends are friends for life, and we’ll continue to embrace their friendship across the miles, looking forward to their visits back to Panama or our visits to see them in the U.S.

Mike and Diane at Cafe Med

Our celebration was an experience none of us will soon forget. As the evening evaporated in delightful food and conversation, we were lost in our time together. As near as I can recall, it was nearly nine thirty when Diane gasped, looking toward the entrance to the restaurant. “This can’t be good,” she said. I glanced over my shoulder to see two armed thugs enter dressed entirely in black, covered from head to foot. Only their eyes were visible through their disguises. The two began screaming and yelling in Spanish, creating a ruckus in the restaurant. I have to interject here that I cannot accurately recount how much time passed or what exactly was transpiring as my back was to most of it.

They took cell phones and things easily accessible and visible off tables while the guests sat in horror. At one table in my field of vision, a patron fought with one who was trying to take his wife’s purse. The guy was forced to the ground after being assaulted by the gunman. The owner was robbed. The entire event was scarcely moments before the owner began shouting back in Spanish, getting in the face of one of the perpetrators. At our table, my phone was all that was taken. I witnessed several other patrons hiding their wallets and purses.

As the two ran from the restaurant, another patron produced a weapon and chased them. He hollered at them in Spanish before firing shots as they climbed the fence across the street. The restaurant is an open garden with a clear street view through the plants and greenery. I saw the patron firing at them, but I cannot say with certainty if he fired all four shots or if some were return fire. Based on my perception of the sound of the shots, all four were fired from the same weapon.

I suspect someone had dialed the police relatively soon in the ordeal because they arrived quickly. They began tracking the perpetrators, climbing the fence, and finding blood before recovering the items taken. One police officer was injured climbing the fence where the perps disappeared. The responding officers worked to recover the stolen property while others took statements from patrons. They disarmed the shooter and treated him respectfully as he helped translate between the English-speaking patrons and the Spanish-speaking law enforcement.

The following day, we went to the Department of Judicial Investigation (DJI) to claim my stolen cell phone. It was then that I realized how much of the harrowing event I could not recall. I credit God with our veil of protection, which kept us safe. It may have been that veil of protection that affected my recount or something else, but adrenalin surged through my body while I paid the bill and gave my statement to the police officers at the scene. I blamed that adrenaline rush on my fatigue as the week progressed.

DJI was friendly and welcoming. They provided an interpreter for me as I was asked to give my statement in my native language (a right of all victims in Panama). I signed a document warning of providing false testimony, another informing me of my rights as a victim, and a form releasing and returning my property, which had been taken. I was asked to provide a fingerprint at each place I signed. They informed me of the apprehension of one of the perps and that the other was known and being pursued. This information gave me more comfort than the return of my cell phone.

DJI is the bridge between the initial police response and the investigation for prosecution of a crime. They are an arm of the Fiscalia (Attorney General’s Office). If DJI responds to the scene of a crime, they will conduct an initial investigation. However, they cannot conduct a full or follow-up investigation unless you go to the local Denuncia Center and file an official report. Filing a Denuncia is the ONLY way to open a case and get a tracking number. Once you have filed a Denuncia and obtained a Denuncia number, you can use that number to follow up on the status of your case.

The police response in Panama is different than in the United States.  The police will respond to provide immediate assistance and protection to victims, will arrest suspects if they are still on the scene or nearby (assuming they have probable cause that the suspect indeed committed a crime), and, if necessary, call for DJI investigators (see more about DJI above).  The Police will NOT take a report or conduct a follow-up investigation.  They may take some data for statistical purposes but are not empowered to file reports or conduct investigations.  If your call to the police is not timely (i.e., when the crime is discovered), there is little the police can do.  If you delay reporting the crime, or if it is minor, you should go straight to DJI.

Investigating a case takes 2 to 4 months, and prosecution can take years.

In addition to reporting crime to Panamanian authorities, U.S. citizens are encouraged to provide information on criminal incidents to the U.S. Embassy. This information will assist the embassy in tracking crimes against U.S. citizens in Panama and following up with authorities.

When reporting a crime to the American Citizen Services unit of the Consular Section, please provide the following information by email to panama-acs@state.gov or by visiting their website and clicking on the crime report link, which you should find on the website. The following information will requested:

·         U.S. Passport Number of victim

·         DJI Report Number and Date Filed

·         Type of Crime Committed

·         In-depth narrative of the crime you were the victim of, including the following information:

a.       Crime location (province, city/area, neighborhood, etc.)

b.      Number of US Citizens affected.

c.       Date and approximate time of day the crime took place.

d.      The monetary amount of valuables/objects taken/destroyed (if applicable)

e.       Action taken after the crime was committed (police report, etc.)

I wanted to share the victim rights offered in Panama. I spent a great deal of time looking for a good translation of the rights provided by the law here. Jen located this website, and I’m sharing a document from it.

The rights of crime victims in Panama

Victims’ rights are special guarantees granted to those who have suffered harm due to crime and serious human rights violations.

Human rights are rights inherent to all human beings, without distinction of nationality, place of residence, sex, national or ethnic origin, color, religion, language, or any other condition; we all have the same human rights without discrimination.

According to Panamanian criminal legislation, victims have the following rights:

  • The right to receive medical, psychiatric or psychological, spiritual, material, and social care when required in the cases provided by law.
  • The right to intervene as a complainant to demand the defendant’s criminal responsibility and to obtain civil compensation for the damages resulting from the crime.
  • The right to receive protection when the judge and the competent court must decide or fix the amount of a release bond or grant a personal precautionary measure instead of preventive detention in favor of the defendant.
  • The right to be informed about the course of the respective criminal proceedings and to receive explanations related to the development of the process.
  • The right to be heard by the judge when they are present at the request for dismissal of charges presented by the Public Ministry or prosecutor’s office.
  • The right to promptly receive the assets of their property or of their lawful possession seized as evidence during the criminal proceeding when they are not necessary for the process.
  • The right to receive free legal assistance from the state through a Panamanian lawyer to obtain reparation for the damage resulting from the crime and to cooperate with the prosecutor’s office to exercise the criminal action.
  • Any other right that the laws indicate.

On the other hand, defendants have the following rights:

  • The right to presumption of innocence
  • The right to know the reasons for their detention.
  • The right to communicate with a family member and their defense lawyer in Panama.
  • The right not to be subjected to arbitrary detention or investigative techniques that violate their dignity or alter their free will.
  • The right to an attorney
  • The right to a certified translator or interpreter if they do not understand the Spanish language.
  • The right not to testify against themselves.
  • The right to appeal.
  • The right to be brought before a court or judge promptly.
  • The right not to be discriminated against
  • The right to be treated well and to be fed.
  • The right to health in Panama
  • The right to receive periodic information about their legal situation from their private attorney, public defender, or the Panamanian Penitentiary System.

If you need to speak with a criminal defense attorney or a legal translator in the Republic of Panama, please message them at the link above.

It amazes us how many friends and relatives from near and far offered a shoulder or kind ear to listen. A special thanks go to Mitzy Casey, who held our hands, guiding us through the process at DJI, and my translator Emerson, who talked me through the forms. Thank you to the kind police officers and the Assistant Prosecutor. Thank you also goes to the other victims who remained calm in the dire situation, and Jasmine, a voice on the phone with Jen, who ensured us that her husband, Issac (a local police Lieutenant), was in the loop. Issac is an advocate for ex-pats in our community.

We recently returned to Cafe Med with friends. The decision to return to the restaurant so soon after the tragic event was healing for Jen and me, while the others agreed to support us and refuse to allow terror to victimize our ability to enjoy the home we love.  Crime like the one we experienced could have occurred anywhere.

Jon and Sue Wizarde at Cafe Med

Our return was six days following the robbery, and we found the proprietor, Franco, attempting a return to flawless service and excellent food. The place was packed to capacity by ex-pats and Panamanians in an outpouring of support and our same refusal to be terrorized.

I found this helpful information for tourists in Panama. Safety and crime information. I have copied and pasted it here to give visitors and residents a perspective on what they may expect as they travel around Panama.

Panama remains relatively safe compared to other Central American countries, yet crime rates are still higher than in most of the United States. Violent crime in Panama started to rise in 2007. However, new efforts by Panama’s National Police (PNP) to combat this trend appear to have made an impact. Beginning in June 2010, the number of homicides in the country declined and continued downward through 2012. Unfortunately, the rate of simple theft was up, with “Blackberry”-type smartphones being a particular target. The three provinces with the largest cities also had the highest overall crime rates: Panama, Colon, and Chiriqui. The entire town of Colon is a high-crime area; travelers should use extreme caution anywhere in Colon.

Police continue to conduct vehicle checkpoints at key intersections in the city to raise their visibility and hamper criminals’ movements. The high crime areas in and around Panama City are El Chorrillo, San Miguel, Santa Ana, Cabo Verde, Curundu, Veracruz Beach, Santa Librada, Rio Abajo, San Miguelito, Panama Viejo, and the Madden Dam Overlook.

Crimes are typical of those that plague metropolitan areas and include shootings, rapes, armed robberies, muggings, purse-snatchings, thefts from locked autos by breaking windows for entry, thefts of unsecured items, petty theft, and occasionally “express kidnappings” from ATM banking facilities, in which the victim is briefly kidnapped and robbed after withdrawing cash from an ATM. There has also been a recent spike in credit card and ATM fraud reports. Criminals capture credit and ATM card information to clone and create fraudulent cards. Kidnappings have been on the rise of late, including in Panama City. Many of the kidnappings appear related to drug or criminal activity.

There has also been a recent increase in thefts from cars. We encourage travelers and residents to take all valuables out of their vehicles and place them in their trunks before they get to their destinations. Drivers should keep their windows up while the car is in motion or stopped in traffic, at traffic lights, or at their destinations to prevent items from being stolen while driving.

Taxis are a helpful way to maneuver around Panama; however, use caution when getting into a taxi. Check that the number on the side of the taxi matches the number on the license plate. Ensuring the car is a registered taxi with a number on the side is a quick way to help prevent any incidences. Regular taxis are yellow. Also, never get into a taxi that already has a passenger and instruct the driver not to pick up any additional fares while en route to your destination. Many hotels also have “tourist taxis” that are not yellow but only pick up passengers in front of well-known hotels.

U.S. citizens are advised never to let a “helpful” stranger direct them to a particular taxi or taxi stand and always negotiate the fare before getting in to ensure a fixed price.

Regarding non-drug-related crime, using weapons (handguns and knives) in the commission of street robberies is common; however, gratuitous violence is uncommon as long as the victim complies and hands over the property. In 2013, there was an increase in violence during theft. Home burglaries and, more worrying, home-invasion robberies do appear to be on the rise, especially in the more affluent neighborhoods. Panama City has a curfew for those younger than 18 years of age that is generally from 8:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Friday and Saturday. The times are subject to change depending on your location within Panama. If you are concerned about the exact time, you may contact local police. This curfew applies to both Panamanian and foreign citizens. Under the law, students attending night classes must have a “carnet” or permit issued by the school or, if employed, a Certificate of Employment. Minors picked up for a curfew violation are subject to detention at a police station until parents or legal guardians can arrange for them to be released into their custody. Parents or legal guardians may be fined up to U.S. $50 for the first violation.

Panamanian customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Panama of items such as firearms and ammunition, cultural property, endangered wildlife species, narcotics, biological material, and food products. Contact the Embassy of Panama in Washington or one of Panama’s Consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements.

Don’t buy counterfeit and pirated goods, even if they are widely available. Not only are the bootlegs illegal in the United States, but you may also be breaking local law if you purchase them.

You are responsible for ensuring that you meet and comply with foreign entry and health requirements and possess the appropriate travel documents. Information provided is subject to change without notice. One should confirm content before traveling from other reliable sources. Information published on this website may contain errors. You travel at your own risk, and we provide no warranties or guarantees.

Visitors and residents in Panama can expect crime to be similar to any other location worldwide. My best advice is to be aware of your surroundings and protect your belongings. I have always professed to be cautious when entering a taxi, engaging in a transaction, or entering an area of higher criminal activity.

Recently, we took a tour of the El Chorrillo barrio community, where gang activity dates back to the Noriega regime. Our tour was led by a capable guide, Victor Peretz, who helped us understand the neighborhood’s people and activities. Without his guidance, we would never attempt to enter this area. While there, we witnessed the police presence, children playing in the streets, a park with people playing dominoes, and a community center that was a safe haven for children to gather. We also had the opportunity to visit a neighborhood bar and a kitchen where local food is prepared, and cooking classes are hosted. Victor pointed out the gang houses and the graffiti art. This is the neighborhood where Roberto Duran and many famous jazz and blues entertainers were born and raised. The community is the home of seven current soccer players from the Panama Soccer team.

Neighborhood History in Street Art
Gang House
Roberto Duran (street art)

This neighborhood borders the famous Casco Viejo area where the Presidential Palace is located. The Casco Viejo gentrification is pushing the borders, and we found it heartbreaking that many people in this depressed community were being driven from the homes where their families have lived for generations.

Street Food Vendor
Dominoes in the park
A neighborhood bar. The beers were $1.

The story’s moral is that we would never have experienced this area without the guidance of Victor. No visitor should go to this neighborhood alone, expecting to be safe. Likewise, no visitor should attempt to visit Colon without a capable guide. Review the list of areas in the article above before setting out on adventures.

Jen and I at Fort Lorenzo Castle near Colon

Jen and I, with numerous adventure buddies, have been to many of these areas. I have detailed these adventures in previous blog posts, my newsletter, my Facebook feed, and my book, 2 Retire In Panama. That doesn’t mean we advocate putting ourselves in danger. Use due diligence and protect your belongings. Keep your wallet and cell phone in your front pocket, and don’t wear expensive jewelry. Most of Panama is safe. Enjoy the beauty of this country, and feel free to explore.

The best place to explore from…Panama!

I’ve talked at length in my book and newsletter about the amazing travel opportunities for retired people living in Panama. Part of the reason for our retirement location decision was the travel we wanted to do as we approached our golden years. We wanted a home where travel is essentially easy to destinations worldwide. Recently, we reported on the opening of the new cruise port on the Amador Causeway in Panama City. When Norwegian began servicing the port, we learned of an amazing cruise itinerary. It turns out that we were among several expat couples who noticed the extraordinary opportunity. We booked the cruise with no concern for air travel.

Rendition of the completed cruise port

We traveled with two other couples from our home in Coronado by private shuttle on February 22. The cruise port is still not 100% complete due to construction delays caused by Covid, so our driver dropped us at the amazing, new convention center where our luggage was collected, documents were processed, and the immigration process was completed. We waited in the comfortable facility to be called in groups for shuttle to our ship. The Norwegian Jewel is one of the smaller ships on their fleet, however we were told that it was leaving port at full capacity (about 2400 passengers).

Newly completed Panama City Convention Center

The passengers were all checked in and comfortably settled into their staterooms by 3:00 and the beautiful ship pulled away from the dock headed to the Gulf of Panama to get in the que for the Panama Canal. We began exploring to find the restaurants and bars aboard. We had dinner overlooking the Gulf of Panama. Following dinner, we found entertainment that surpassed belief. The ship had vocal musicians and dancers/acrobats who entertained the passengers at several venues, including the Stardust theater where nightly shows played.

At 6:00 a.m., the ship began its transit of the Panama Canal. An esteemed member of the Panama Canal Authority, Mr. Jaime Robleto, gave a full narration of the history and construction of this amazing structure. As we passed through each lock and Lake Gatun, the ship moved effortlessly under the direction of the Panama Canal Pilot, who boarded and took control of the ship’s transit. It was amazing how quickly the day passed before going under the Atlantic Bridge and traveling out into the Caribbean. The Panama Canal Pilot had exited the ship, and the captain regained control for the overnight passage to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.

Whether drawn to beautiful scenery, fascinated by history, or craving adventure, the best way to explore Puerto Limon was to take home a story from an exciting shore excursion. We opted to take the Caribbean Train, Eco Cruise, and Countryside tour. We boarded the open-air train and traveled through the rainforest and banana groves of Costa Rica until reaching our tour bus and being transported to a canal adventure. We motored through mangroves where we witnessed wildlife indigenous to the Costa Rican paradise. Forgive me, but the opportunity for great pictures here was limited. Following our adventure, we were returned to the ship.

The ship left Costa Rica for travel to Curacao. The trip took us through the night and a full day at sea, during which we were able to enjoy the pools, spa, driving range, casino, sports courts, jogging track, and numerous other activities. We enjoyed the tribute to Elton John by Jeffrey Allen in the Stardust Theater after dinner. During the cruise we found ourselves also enjoying the music of Louis Razon in the Magnum Bar. Every stage on the ship offered different entertainment and it was often difficult to decide where to be.

Our cruise package gave us dinner at one of the premium restaurants. We opted for Cagney’s Steakhouse, where our group enjoyed prime rib which we rarely get in Panama. The dinner was a highlight of our trip and the only time we took pictures of the food. I must say, however that the food aboard was all spectacular with one exception. We checked in at Chin Chin for Asian Fusion one night, and everyone at the table was disappointed. Nobody finished their plate. The great thing about a cruise is if one place disappoints, there are others. We slipped into a different place later for appetizers and dessert. O’Sheehan’s Pub was open 24 hours and proved to be a favorite venue for some of our meals. We all enjoyed Azura for several dinners and The Palace for other dinners and breakfasts. We enjoyed the buffet for other breakfasts and a lunch or two. Most of us tried to avoid the buffet for portion control reasons.

On day 5 of our adventure, the captain parked the ship in the port at Willemstad, Curacao around 2:00 p.m. Willemstad is the capital of the Dutch Caribbean Island, Curacao and its beauty hit us as soon as the ship pulled into port. The island is known for its pastel-colored town square as vibrant as tropical flora. Unique to Willemstad is the floating pedestrian bridge that spans the deep and narrow channel splitting the city’s two districts. We opted to explore the shopping, a fort at the port, and have an ice-cold local beer at one end of the floating bridge. It was Sunday and we found several of the shops closed. After a couple of hours, we returned to the ship and continued to enjoy the onboard activities. We left port around 9:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to our next destination Bonaire.

We arrived at Kralendijk, Bonaire around 7:00 a.m. on day 6. The countless coral reefs surrounding its shore are home to more than 400 species of marine life, earning it the nickname diver’s paradise. Many on the ship took off for dive or snorkeling adventures, while others boarded a glass bottomed gondola for prime undersea views. Still others explored the Washington Slagbaii National Park which covers a fifth of the island. Bonaire offered endless outdoor adventures with a healthy dose of colonial charm. Our little group of adventurers opted for some local shopping. The ship departed at around 8:00 p.m. for an overnight transit to Aruba.

The ship docked at Oranjestad, Aruba at 7:00 a.m. on day 7. Oranjestad, Aruba is a bustling harbor city whose streets and malls are dotted with international luxury retailers, diverse boutiques, and dazzling jewelry stores. Fascinating restored landmark buildings can be found along the way, such as Fort Zoutman, Aruba’s oldest building dating back to 1798, which was built to protect the city from pirates. There’s also the Willem III Tower built in 1868. It was once a lighthouse and public clocktower. The Historical Museum, positioned between the two buildings, houses a permanent exhibition outlining the main events in Aruban history. We opted for a best of Aruba tour where we were treated with one of the best guides around. She drove our bus across most of the island stopping to allow us to explore some of the most talked about sites on there. We motored past Haystack before stopping at Casibari, a natural rock formation. We exited the bus and were allowed time to climb the rocks and explore. Once we returned to the bus, she drove us to a very interesting Aloe plantation and factory for a tour. Then we went to the California Lighthouse, all the way getting interesting history and information about “one happy island.” She drove us past all of the beaches and resorts before our final stop, where we were able to spend a few minutes at Eagle Beach. We saw wind surfers and pirate ships along the way. This was a private tour that we arranged outside the ship. She kindly dropped us near the shopping district, so we could explore before returning to the ship. The captain departed around 8:00 p.m. despite the fact that everyone had not returned. Must be that those 2 people were having much too fun and lost track of time. A cruise ship has to maintain a rigid schedule. This was the busiest of the ports we visited with at least 5 other cruise ships docked. Our next stop was Santa Marta.

After 1 day and 2 nights of onboard activities, we made landfall at 8:00 a.m. in Santa Marta, Colombia. Santa Marta is described as pure flavor. The city’s diversity is evident in its landscape, people, and every aspect of its culture. It’s a destination that truly embraces its visitors and makes them feel at home. Santa Marta’s beautiful terrain is its most distinguishing feature with unforgettable landscapes, green foliage, blue sea, yellow sun, and sand. The contrast between the beaches and the white peaked Sierra Nevada, makes Santa Marta a must-see destination. We opted for a full day journey to the Taironaka Indian Reserve. Our tour bus transported us through the city and into the highlands of the Seirra Nevada Mountains, where we exited and hiked to the reserve. This was a difficult hike for many of us and it wasn’t recommended for anyone over 60 years old, children, or anyone with medical conditions. Our tour group had all of these, and a medic hiked with us to the reserve. The reserve had been restored to resemble some of what it may have looked like when occupied by the indigenous people. A museum there contained artifacts uncovered and our guide filled us with history and culture of the people. These were believed to be the first inhabitants of the country. They were gold crafters who also made beautiful pottery, textiles, and baskets. The Spanish had looted their graves which contained gold, jewelry, and other artifacts. Fortunately, their only interest was the gold and much of the rest was left behind for us to enjoy. There was a river nearby and several of our fellow adventurers walked down to wade into its cool water before making the hike down. Our bus returned us to the ship. The exhausted passengers rested and recovered on the ride.

The ship departed at 5:00 p.m. for the overnight journey to Cartagena. The crew on the ship told us that this was the first time they had stopped at Santa Marta.

We arrived on day 10 of our adventure at Cartagena, Colombia. Cartagena is a gorgeous fishing village on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. It has excellent beaches, a historic old town, and colonial architecture. Often considered one of the safest places in Colombia, it’s no wonder it’s a popular cruise port. The first thing one notices when exiting the port is the fabulous estuary between the dock and the street where taxis are available. Our small group got a taxi into the walled city. The taxis and traffic were brutal. The taxi drivers were trying to get usurious fares, and we negotiated before getting into one. Even with careful negotiations we paid $5 USD each for the hot uncomfortable ride. We explored part of the walled city and bought some small trinkets before returning to the ship. Our return taxi ended up costing a more reasonable $10 for four people.

Once onboard the ship, we were all feeling sad that our cruise was coming to an end. The ship departed port at 3:00 p.m. for our final leg of the trip to Colon, Panama. We all went to our staterooms to pack. All luggage had to be in the hall by 9:00 p.m. We went for a final delicious meal at what had become one of our favorite restaurants, Azura. We visited some of our favorite crew members who had served us well on our journey and took in a final show at the Stardust Theater.

Our favorite Bar Server has just brought us a round of mini beers. He takes a mean selfie.
Forbidden shot during one of the acrobatic performances.

I woke early, showered, packed my carry-on bag, and went up on deck to enjoy our arrival to Colon. I was taken back by how beautiful the port town appeared as it slept. I know from experience that this is one of the most dangerous towns in the country. We had our private transportation picking us up on the dock. The extreme poverty was evident as our driver navigated his way to the highway and our return to Coronado.

Jen and I are happy to be returning to a normal schedule of adventuring. Later this year, we will be visiting Riviera Maya in Mexico, where we will stay in a resort near Cancun. In December, we will be traveling to Peru where we will visit Machu Pichu and take an exploration into the Amazon Rainforest. From Peru, we plan to travel to the United States for a few days in Florida. Although the arrangements are still fuzzy, we are planning a cruise from Santiago, Chili around the entire continent of South America, which will conclude in Rio de Janeiro. That will be in March and April of next year. Stay tuned for more. If you want to hear about all our exciting travel, make sure you subscribe to get our blog delivered to your inbox. We will never spam you or sell your information.

Blessings from Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Adventures With the Family December 2022

Jen’s family made a visit to Panama for an early Christmas celebration, and we were able to take them on a few adventures. The group included her two brothers, one sister-in-law, and two nephews. We were sad that nephew, Connor, and his wife, Olivia, were unable to be with us.

Jen’s older brother, Bill, and his wife, Deb, arrived two days prior to the others. They came through immigration and customs in under half an hour and we were on our way to Coronado in record time. Our guests always enjoy Gold Coast Brewery, so we made a dinner stop for half price wings before getting them settled into their condo accommodations just four floors down from ours in El Alcazar. Our amazing friend, Joan, offered her place for the family while she traveled, and it proved to be perfect with everyone getting their own bed and bathroom. While the family was here, we were able to have meals together and play some family card games in Joan’s condo, which offered a much bigger space than our own.

Thursday gave us some time with Bill and Deb, which was perfect for a trip to the Coronado Thursday Market and some last-minute shopping to prepare for the rest of the family’s arrival. We also took the opportunity to enjoy the pool and a nice dinner at Nazca 21. Bill ordered the whole corvina and was surprised when the small fish hung over the plate on both ends.

Friday morning, I prepared to make the journey to the airport to pick up the remaining guests. While the morning progressed, we watched their flights. Jon was traveling from Minneapolis, while Donovan and Cullan traveled from Detroit. They were to all connect to the same flight in Atlanta. Jon’s flight was delayed as it took over an hour to “de-ice” his plane, and he missed the connection. Ultimately, he got a stand-by flight which put him more than five hours behind the nephews. Bill went along with me to the airport to pick up Cullan and Donovan.

Cullan and Donovan arrive in Panama

The trip to the airport was without incident, but the return was a traffic jam typical of Friday afternoons in Panama. I always say to prepare for travel from Panama City to take anywhere from two to four hours and our trip home was on the long side. Both boys were exhausted by the time we got them settled. We had a nice dinner and off to bed they went while we waited to see what would happen with Jon. We learned he was able to make it onto the later flight, so I contacted Marc Vargas who arranged for his transportation to Coronado. It was nearly 1:00 a.m. before he got here. It was a long day for all of us, suffice it to say it was really long for Jon.

We kept our schedule loose for Saturday, but everyone was awake in plenty of time to take our first real adventure to El Valle. It’s always a favorite of guests, and we could have spent much more than a day there. Our first stop was El Macho Falls. Everyone except Jen and I zip-lined the falls.

Following our zip-line and hike around the falls we went to Zapote’ for lunch. From Zapote’, we took them to the rim of the volcano for a hike to the ridge.

Our last stop was at the market. The market in El Valle is always a special favorite of guests. Everyone found a few treasures to take back to the states. Jon and Deb bought Panama hats while the others found some last-minute Christmas gifts and we all grabbed a little fresh fruit and produce.

Our dinner plans on Saturday took us to Segundo Piso. The fine dining restaurant at our club never disappoints and our dinner was no exception. Everyone had a great meal, and we went home early to prepare for our early (6:45 a.m.) Sunday departure to the Embera Village.

Sunday morning, we caravanned to Panama City with four friends. There we met our tour guide, Marc Vargas. Marc was able to bring his wife Keren, daughter Mabel, and mother-in-law, Esther. They had never been on a tour of an Embera Village, and we had room in our group. It was great having them along. Marc’s family is special to us, and we often consider them part of our own family. At the rendezvous point, we loaded onto a coaster bus for the remainder of the journey to the river where we boarded a piragua. Embera piraguas are carved from the trunk of a large tree. They take about six months to carve, and each one can take twenty passengers and a small load of cargo. We brought fruit, rice, and beans for the villagers. We also brought candy and toys for the children. Our piragua had a motor on it, but that was about all the modern conveniences one can expect to find on an Embera adventure.

We made a brief stop at the village to drop off the cargo before heading to a waterfall hike about twenty minutes further up the river. The lighter load allowed us to travel to within a short walk to the falls. The place was beautiful and secluded inside the national park. This village of Embera people are living within the Chagres National Park where they are trusted with the care and conservation of the land. They are allowed to only hunt and fish for their own personal survival.

Following our visit to the falls, we were transported back to the village where we were met by the tribe. Several men from the village welcomed us with music from handmade instruments. The children met our piragua and took us to the village meeting place where we got an exhibition of native dance. The women in our group were presented with fresh flowers for their hair and Marc, along with the guide from another group, translated to tell us about the culture of the Embera people.

From there, we were taken to an area where food was prepared. Our group was given a light lunch of fish and patacones served in a banana leaf. While we ate, we were told about their crafts and the technique for dying and carving the pieces. Everything at the village is made from wood and plants found in the jungle. The dyes are from fruits and nuts growing near the village and the carved wood pieces are from wood growing in the jungle. The crafts are priced according to the amount of time which goes into their creation.

We were then free to explore the village and shop the crafts in the large meeting place. Each family had a table of their work, which was all magnificent. Jen and I were able to purchase three pieces which we will treasure for a lifetime. Jon and I both got Embera art in the form of a temporary tattoo made from the dyes which they use to decorate their own bodies. The “tattoo” lasted over ten days.

When it came time to depart, we were sad to leave. The people were so kind and welcoming, following us to our piragua to bid us farewell. We were able to get some great pictures and share some special moments with people who didn’t speak a word of English but communicated beautifully by sharing their jungle home.

Our coaster bus met us at the place where we had begun the adventure and transported us back to our rendezvous point. Jen and I took the family to Pedro Miguel Locks from there, in hope of seeing a boat passing through. We hung out at the viewing place for a while and were able to see several boats but really saw nothing of the locks. Late on a Sunday afternoon, we were unable to get into the gallery for tourists, and the Miraflores Locks were closed due to an incident earlier in the week. It was late when we started our journey back to Coronado. If we consider being stuck in stop and go traffic for several hours an adventure, we had our third adventure of the day. Sunday evening traffic between Coronado and the city can be brutal. We were thankful to the vendors selling water and churros to those stuck in traffic. Our final stop of the day was dinner at The Bench. It was the perfect place to unwind and talk about our amazing adventure.

Monday was dedicated to a day of beach and pool fun. It was also Jon’s birthday. He and I took a dune buggy tour of the community and went to the beach. The tide was high and the surf strong, but we managed to have a great time. Later, I took the boys in the buggy. The tide had receded, so we were able to get out in the sand for a little fun.

We were able to enjoy a birthday dinner together; ham, au gratin potatoes, tossed salad, and red velvet birthday cake. On the holidays, our family always enjoys playing Up the River Down the River. Monday night was capped off with a healthy card game competition.

Tuesday, we took them all to Santa Clara for a beach day and lobster lunch. The weather and food were amazing, and everyone had a great time. The beach was packed like I’ve never seen before. The anniversary of the U.S. invasion to take down Noriega (Operation Just Cause) was celebrated here as a day of mourning for the first time, and all the government offices were closed giving many the day off. This new holiday is dry, so no alcohol could be sold or served.

Our time together was coming to a rapid end. Their departure on Thursday morning meant we had only one day of adventure left. A poll of the visitors gave us a great idea. We gathered everyone for a short hike to Filipina Falls high on the mountain near Sora. The drive to the trailhead was long, but the road was good for most of the way. Once we reached the trailhead, we paid the landowner $2.00 each, and the dogs led the way to the falls. I brought a bag of dog biscuits, and the friendly dogs did a great job of showing us the way. Jen and I had purchased Panama T-shirts for our visitors, and we all took the opportunity to sport them on the hike. This made for some great photo opportunities.

Our farewell dinner was later in the evening at Cafe’ Med. Franco and team did a great job of making that last meal together special. It would have been great to have the family here through the holidays, but the entire time they were here was special. Their journeys home were mostly uneventful given the weather in the north. Jon landed in Minneapolis over two hours late to temperatures at negative 11 degrees F. The crew that went to Detroit landed an hour late to snowstorms, but all their cars started, and they were all able to get home safely.

Jon’s Jeep started despite the extreme temperature

As the end of 2022 rapidly approaches, we are missing our time with family. We continue to love our life in Panama. Since moving to this beautiful country, we have made some of the best friends of our lives. The relationships with these new friends keep us busy and adventuring, but the visits from old friends and family are special. We hope that all of you have a safe, healthy and blessed New Year. With adventures planned in 2023 taking us to more than 6 other countries, I look forward to filling my passport with stamps from places I never imagined. I hope we have encouraged all of you to step outside your comfort zone and take an adventure. If that adventure brings you to our neighborhood, please don’t hesitate to look us up. We love having visitors and meeting new people.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama