When Jen and I scheduled our South American adventure, we were checking off an item from my bucket list. We were pampered for most of the trip on the beautiful Norwegian Star, which only circumvented about half the continent over our twenty-four days on board. The cruise ship journey was nearly 5000 Nautical miles. Initially, I wanted to cruise from and return to Panama, making the entire journey around South America. That was neither logistically nor financially possible. No carriers are making an offer for this transit. The sheer size of the continent baffled me, as I’m sure it does many. We traveled from Panama City over six hours by plane to Santiago, Chile, and returned by plane over seven hours from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Our adventure in South America started in Santiago. We saw treasured landmarks of the Chilean capital on a tour of Santiago. We visited the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago, Cerro Santa Lucia, and La Moneda Palace. We absorbed the bohemian charm of the Bellavista neighborhood and opted to explore the city’s financial district, nicknamed ‘Manhattan’ due to its skyscrapers. Our guide gave us insight into Santiago’s rich history and culture.
That evening, we enjoyed a performance by ‘Voces de América’ (America’s Voices) and the ‘Thiare’ ballet during a combination dinner show experience in Santiago. The three-course dinner of international fare was served while we enjoyed an extravaganza of typical dances from Chile’s northern, central, and southern regions, plus Easter Island. The set decoration featured exotic recreations of the ‘Moai’ stone from Easter Island, perfect for our romantic evening.
We were transported from Santiago to San Antonio the following day, with two great adventures along the way. The first was Vina Santa Rita, one of Chile’s largest and most influential wineries. Founded in 1880, a large part of its success stems from its owner importing some of the finest French varieties, a team of top French winemakers, and specialized equipment. This investment paid off by producing some spectacular wines and changing the country’s wine industry. We enjoyed a guided tour through their vineyards and cellar, followed by wine tasting. We walked through the beautifully landscaped park and gardens, followed by wine tasting.
Our second stop was Parque Tricao. This private nature reserve preserves and protects 100 hectares of wetland and forest for the community. Not only are there walking trails and secluded spots to take in the park’s surroundings, but the world’s second-largest aviary and a garden inspired by Monet. We opted to spend the afternoon exploring the beautiful aviary.
Our driver delivered us to our hotel in San Antonio, near the port. We met new friends who would cruise with us for dinner in the hotel. We spent the night anticipating boarding our ship, where we spent the next 24 days traveling and exploring. I got these great photos in San Antonio before we boarded.
We set sail for Puerto Mont, Chile, with a day at sea planned en route. Unfortunately, the weather prevented us from taking excursions at our stop there. We prayed for better weather. The captain traveled on, giving us another day at sea before making an unscheduled stop in Castro.
We gathered with a few of our new friends for the unplanned stop at Castro.
Castro is Chile’s third oldest city in continuous existence. Rodrigo de Quiroga, as the temporary governor of Chile in 1567, launched a campaign led by his son-in-law, Captain Martin Ruiz de Gamboa, to conquer Chiloé Island, establish the city of Castro there, and subjugate its inhabitants, the Cunos. From its founding on February 12, 1576, until 1767, Castro was the administrative center of Chiloé Island. In 1594, Castro had 8,000 inhabitants, most of whom were farmers. Up to the middle of the 17th century, Dutch pirates looted the town several times.
We opted to walk around and enjoy the delightful little town on the Pacific Coast of Chile.
Notice we’re wearing warmer clothes. As the adventure moved south, the weather became cooler. We boarded the ship at the end of the day, and the captain set sail. The weather at Castro was perfect, and everyone was optimistic that we could visit all of the scheduled ports and travel through the Magellan Straights and Beagle Channel before rounding Cape Horn. The captain was forced to cancel some of the best ports on the cruise before ours.
We traveled through the Chilian Fjords for two days before landing in Punta Arenas, Chile, on Saturday. We chartered a vessel to one of Chile’s largest penguin colonies. Located on Magdalena Island, the site was declared a natural monument in 1982. The boat took us for an hour along the Strait of Magellan. We were given about an hour on the island to observe the Magellan penguins in their natural habitat. A large colony of penguin’s nest and breed there each year between October and March. They bury their eggs in sandy burrows and under shrubs. Most chicks had hatched, and we caught this adventure at the end of the breeding season. Some adult penguins had already started the migration, and the chicks were soon to follow. They were curious and untamed – if approached too quickly, they would scamper off.
Following our amazing visit to the penguin habitat, Jen and I wandered around the port town before returning to the ship.
Our next stop was Ushuaia, Argentina, where we had a great tour. It began with a scenic drive to Central Station for an unforgettable trip on the Tierra del Fuego Southern Railway train to the end of the world. This railway uses the original narrow-gauge line that was part of the small train for prisoners until 1947. Prisoners were housed in a maximum-security prison deep in the forest at the very end of solid land. Escape from the region was impossible with no one ever successfully escaping. They were forced to work to build the infrastructure of what is now Ushuaia. The train carried us to the farthest south land mass of the world. We bought postcards to send to our grandchildren, but we found the post office closed at the end of the world.
Upon arrival at the Park Station, we boarded a bus through Tierra del Fuego National Park to Lapataia Bay, marking the end of the 2,010 miles from Buenos Aires. A catamaran was waiting to return us to the ship via the Beagle Channel. En route, we saw the historic lighthouse, Les Eclaireurs, Seal Island, Isla de los Lobos, and Island of the Birds, whose names clearly express the rich wildlife we saw from the deck of the catamaran on our journey back to the ship.
From the bottom of the world, we sailed through the Magellan Straights and past Cape Horn. Because inquiring minds want to know, this is the closest we got to Antarctica, and, yes, it’s cold there. The high temperature was under 50 degrees F. We were blessed to have the best weather for such a journey. While on the Magellan Straight, we passed several magnificent glaciers, which we admired primarily from the inside. The passage through the Straights and past Cape Horn was early morning, and many people on the ship gathered on the deck to get pictures. The captain expertly navigated the ship through the most dangerous waters in the world while we looked on in awe.
After traversing Cape Horn, we traveled on to Stanley, Falkland Islands. From the port, we traveled to a farm on a lagoon to discover a Gentoo penguin colony in their natural habitat. Upon arrival at the lagoon, we were met by rangers and were able to wander around the penguin colony and along the sandy white beach. Approximately 600 pairs of Gentoo penguins were there. The site was very photogenic, with a large lagoon and long sand beach, home to various seabirds, sea lions, and dolphins. There was a warm, comfortable place to rest where we enjoyed delicious homemade cookies (biscuits) with hot chocolate, tea, or coffee.
Our day was just getting started. We went from the farm, where we found penguins, to the town of Stanley.
The Falkland Islands have a land area of 4,700 sq mi (12,000 km2) and a coastline estimated at 800 mi (1,300 km). The archipelago consists of two main islands, West Falkland and East Falkland, and 776 smaller islands. The islands are predominantly mountainous and hilly. The major exception is the depressed plains of Lafonia (a peninsula forming the southern part of East Falkland). The Falklands Islands are located in the South Atlantic, about 300 mi (480 km) east of Patagonia in southern Argentina.
The Falkland Sound separates the archipelago’s two main islands, and its deep coastal indentations form natural harbors. East Falkland houses Stanley (the capital and largest settlement), The UK military base at RAF Mount Pleasant and the archipelago’s highest point, Mount Usborne, at 2,313 ft (705 m), is located here. Outside these significant settlements is the area colloquially known as “Camp,” derived from the Spanish term for countryside (Campo).
The island’s climate is cold, windy, and humid. Variability of daily weather is typical throughout the archipelago. Rainfall is common over half of the year, averaging 610 mm (24 in) in Stanley, and sporadic light snowfall occurs nearly all year. Stanley’s temperature has historically stayed between 21.1 and −11.1 °C (70.0 and 12.0 °F), with mean monthly temperatures varying from 9 °C (48 °F) early in the year to −1 °C (30 °F) in July. Strong westerly winds and cloudy skies are common. Although numerous storms are recorded each month, conditions are normally calm.
The Falkland Islands has about 2500 residents with more than 2000 living in Stanley. The islands are much bigger than we expected, with most of the territory covered with sheep farms. Here, we had no internet or telephone. Locals said they paid a high price for these things. The islands are British Territories following the Falkland Island Conflict, where Argentina tried to overthrow British rule in the eighties. Great Britain provides healthcare and education. The nation’s primary income is farming, with a small portion coming from tourism.
The town was charming, and we walked around to find the post office. We needed to mail our postcards to the grandchildren, and we were amazed that the cost to mail them was about USD 5 for all of them. Before returning to the ship, we visited an Anglican Church, a gift shop, and a museum.
After leaving Stanley, we spent Wednesday at sea. Sea days were spent relaxing and discovering the many activities and amenities aboard the ship. We found the library, and I was able to leave a copy of Murder in Eagle Cove for other passengers to enjoy.
I also participated several times in the evening Karaoke party. I was selected as a Karaoke Superstar and invited to sing with the B-12 band in the final competition. I didn’t win the competition; however, it was an honor to be selected to compete with a very talented group of seven other competitors. I will post my performance on my YouTube channel for anyone interested. The bigger thrill for me was being invited to sing with the ship’s piano guy, Jamison, in the atrium on the last night on board the ship. Jen and I had become fast friends with him while on board. We sought him out and enjoyed his music as often as possible. He and the guitar player, Angel, were both immensely talented and provided excellent entertainment.
Another notable thing we experienced while cruising was the food. We both enjoyed overindulging in the great drinks and meals. I am not a big fan of sharing pictures of our food, but sometimes I couldn’t resist taking a picture or two. We also came into our cabin each day to special treats which we were unsure who sent. We do know that other passengers did not share this special treat. We suspect the management crew, or our cruise consultant may have had something to do with it. Jen organized two special meet-and-greet events during the journey. Both had more than fifty attendees. We gave out cruise door magnets, and the management crew came in to introduce themselves to those attending.
After our sea day, we made port in Puerto Madryn, Argentina. It’s located in Chubut on the Gulfo Nuevo within the region of Patagonia. The town was first settled in 1865 by Welsh immigrants. Today, the Welsh community still thrives in and around Puerto Madryn, but people aren’t the only ones who call this remote region of the world home. It’s a popular destination for up close and personal marine life encounters. Many people go there in search of penguins, whales, and dolphins. We took off for the Provincial Wildlife Preserve Punta Loma. We visited a checkpoint for sea lions on the rocky desert cliff. The desert terrain was interesting, so close to the Atlantic Ocean. We explored there, finding Sea Lions on the rocks, before returning to town.
We sailed on for another day before docking at Montevideo, Uruguay’s energetic capital, where we browsed the Old City before checking out The Andes Museum 1972. It’s a museum dedicated to the plane accident that took place in the Andes in 1972 involving a group of Uruguayan rugby players, their friends, and relatives who were traveling to Chile when the airplane crashed. Some of them belonged to the Old Christians rugby club. The story of how they survived the tragedy was transmitted worldwide through books, documentaries, pictures, conferences, and inspiration for the film Alive.
The museum pays homage to the memory of the 29 people who died due to the plane accident in the Andes and to those who risked their lives to save the rest. It reminds us of those 16 Uruguayans who returned to life after 72 days in the Andes’s freezing weather conditions with no food or proper clothing. The museum displays objects, documents, and photographs related to the Andes Tragedy in 1972.
It may seem strange, but this was one of the places we visited that we talked about the most. We spent nearly two hours exploring the sad place, which seemed to house the ghosts of those lost in the tragedy.
After the Museum, we took a walking tour of Uruguay’s capital. There were markets, plazas, and people dancing in the square. Our guide showed us the gate to Old Town, the place where the Tango originated, the President’s office, the location where the Constitution was drafted, the Mausoleum and Monument to General Jose Gervasio de Artegas, and strolled with us down the plaza.
The following morning, we docked in Buenos Aires, Argentina. This was the last stop of the first leg of our cruise adventure. We remained onboard the ship while they performed the changeover. We were fortunate to stay in the same cabin for the remaining ten days to Rio. We enjoyed the activities while watching a new group board the ship. It surprised us that the new cruisers differed greatly from those who made the initial transit. Only 113 people remained to continue to Rio. We rested for the night and took a tour of Buenos Aires the next morning before the ship departed on the second leg of our cruise adventure.
Buenos Aires is the largest city and capital of Argentina. It is known for its preserved eclectic European architecture and rich culture. Buenos Aires is home to multiple ethnic and religious groups contributing to its culture and dialect. Since the 19th century, the city and the country have been major recipients of millions of immigrants worldwide, making it a melting pot where several ethnic groups live together. Thus, Buenos Aires is considered one of the most diverse cities in the Americas.
We enjoyed an enlightening overview of Buenos Aires by visiting landmarks ranging from its most politically important square to its most characteristic neighborhoods. After departing the pier, we traveled to Plaza de Mayo, arguably the most famous square in Argentina. Its name refers to the revolution that began nearby in May 1810 and led to Argentina’s independence from Spain. Some of the surrounding buildings are just as celebrated. President Juan Peron and his wife Eva, more affectionately known as Evita, delivered numerous speeches from the balcony of Casa Rosado, the executive mansion. We saw the glorious Metropolitan Cathedral adorned with frescoes and elaborate artwork. Then, it was on to the neighborhood of La Boca to view El Caminito, a street that is an open-air museum of sorts full of brightly colored buildings. Some claim the tango originated here around 1870, and tango dancers were performing in the streets. While La Boca is a working-class neighborhood, Barrio Norte is the most affluent. That became immediately apparent as we drove through it. We had a nice tour of the Botanical Garden. On the way back to the pier, we went through leafy Palermo, the city’s largest neighborhood. We passed the zoo and Recoleta Cemetery while looking candidly at daily life in Buenos Aires.
After leaving Buenos Aires, the ship returned for another stop in Montevideo, Uruguay. We took the opportunity to journey back in time to visit Colonia del Sacramento, the oldest town in Uruguay and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s renowned for its quaint historic quarter lined with colorful houses and cobblestone streets reminiscent of old Lisbon. On the two-hour journey we visited a bull ring tucked into a small town along the way. We learned that bullfighting was only allowed for two years here (1910-1912). The facility has been beautifully restored and is now a convention facility.
We continued to drive through the lush countryside to the small city of Colonia del Sacramento, founded by the Portuguese in 1680 when Spain and Portugal were in the midst of conflicts. Both empires fought for over a hundred years until the Treaty of Saint Ildefonso finally awarded it to Spain. We discovered a rich cultural history as we crossed the drawbridge entrance into the old walled city, accompanied by our guide. We walked along winding streets lined with colorful colonial houses. We saw the San Francisco Convent, the Lighthouse, and the cathedral in the main square. We had an authentic lunch at a typical local restaurant and explored briefly before returning to the bus.
As we returned to the ship, I was taken aback by the landscape. Remember that in the southern hemisphere, the seasons are reversed from the north. We were experiencing weather and a climate similar to what would be considered late summer coming into fall. The area reminded me of late summer in Michigan. Green pastures, grazing cattle, and fields of sweet corn were everywhere.
We sailed overnight to Punta del Este, Uruguay, where we took a scenic drive through Punta del Este’s most interesting beaches and neighborhoods. We discovered two unique and very interesting art collections. The art and architecture treasure trove hidden here is a secret known only to a select few. Punta del Este is known as a world-class resort and jet-set destination. Driving from the harbor, we saw the Peninsula Brava Beach and the open-air collection of sculptures at Square of the Americas, among which The Hand is a city icon.
Before arriving at the Ralli Museum, we passed through the residential areas of San Rafael, Golf Park, and Beverly Hills. Located in the emerald green setting of Beverly Hills, the museum houses a collection of works by Latin American painters and sculptors and European artists such as Salvador Dali. From there, we visited the Pablo Atchugarry Foundation, where we admired some impressive marble sculptures, among other works of art. This nonprofit organization has created a space of ideal union between art and nature. During our visit, we saw the artist’s workshop, exhibition halls, and a permanent collection and works of Pablo Atchugarry.
I took many pictures of these two amazing venues’ art and sculptures. I am sharing below some of our favorites. Forgive me for not captioning these pieces of art. We were on information overload after seeing hundreds of beautiful pieces of art. This is where I’m missing some of the many pictures. Each day I uploaded the photos from my camera to my computer over a questionable internet connection. I fear some treasured photos may be in cyberspace in the Southern Hemisphere.
We spent the following day at sea. The ship had magnificent laundry service for those who may wonder about laundry during our thirty-day expedition. We could have packed a little lighter had we known this in advance. We just left our dirty laundry for our cabin steward, and it came back laundered and folded in a nice basket the following day. As we moved north in the Atlantic, the weather became warmer. I was grateful for the clean laundry because the warmer it got, the fewer days I could get from a shirt.
After our sea day, we landed in Balneario (Camboriu), Brazil. It’s a coastal city in the southern Brazilian state of Santa Catarina, built on steep hills that drop down to the sea. It’s a popular tourist destination for South Americans drawn to its main ocean boulevard, Avenida Atlântica (Atlantic Avenue). This boulevard swells the city’s population from 145,796 (2020 census office estimate) to over one million in the summer. Balneário Camboriu is famous for its unique beach-to-beach cable car which links the city’s central beach with the beach of Laranjeiras.
Notice the palms, indicating we’re returning to the tropics. At this stop, we had fun with an expedition taking us on the cable car that delivered us to a rain forest location just a short ride up the mountain from the central beach. We explored with our group before continuing on a different cable car to Laranjeiras Beach. We slipped into a bar for a bucket of beers and awaited our transportation to return us to the point of beginning (the central beach). Our ride back was on a pirate ship. This tour was reminiscent of an adventure for children who would enjoy the Disney-like atmosphere far more than we did. It was fun, nevertheless.
Our next stop was in port at Santos in São Paulo, Brazil. It was founded in 1546 by the Portuguese nobleman Bras Cubas. It was located mostly on the island of São Vicente, which harbors both the city of Santos and the city of São Vicente, and partially on the mainland. It’s the main city in the metropolitan region of Baixada Santista. The population is 433,656 (2020 est.). The city is home to the Coffee Museum, where world coffee prices were once negotiated. A football memorial is also dedicated to the city’s greatest players, including Pele, who spent most of his career with Santos Futebol Clube. Our excursion began with a panoramic drive to the Coffee Museum through the historic city center. The former palace was inaugurated in 1922 to celebrate 100 years of Brazilian independence. The architecture of the building is unique in São Paulo State and includes a 120-foot clock tower and four statues representing Industry, Commerce, Production, and Navigation. Wall paintings recall the history of Santos from its early times to the present. The building was restored in 1998 and, since that time, has housed the Coffee Museum.
Continuing, we visited the Museum of the Santos Futebol Clube. The club’s history covers many chapters of the team’s glory and victories. FIFA has recognized the team as “the best 20th-century Team on the American Continent.”
We had more than enough time in the Pele Museum, so we wandered outside and across the street to find a magnificent Cathedral. There was a wedding about to take place, so we crashed it. The old couple being united was humored by our existence. They were about to walk the aisle when I grabbed these great pictures. The guide told us later that the white building on the hill was connected to the Cathedral by tunnels used to move clergy safely during the war.
The São Paulo Railway Station was nearby as well. I thought it was a beautiful building. We had friends who took a São Paulo tour by train. They left from there and found it wonderful.
We ended our time there with a visit to the cool, shady realm of the Botanical Gardens, where we strolled among giant subtropical and tropical trees and stopped to see the aviary with its macaws, toucans, and parrots. The Orchidarium and zoo were a letdown.
From the Botanical Orchid Zoo, we returned to the pier. The captain sailed overnight to deliver us to the next port, Ilhabela, Brazil.
In Ilhabela, Brazil, we were disappointed. The tour described a day on the amazing island discovering the peace of nature where our driver was our guide in a powerful open-air 4×4 Jeep. Following tendering to the downtown pier, we would set off through the island and “Mata Atlantica” rain forest on a 25-minute drive to 3 Tombos Waterfalls. The falls were the easiest to access, and it was possible to park nearby. The breathtaking waterfall was described as the most pleasant for bathing on the island. Next, we would drive to Curral Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on the North Coast. There would be time here to enjoy the beach and take a swim.
The diesel smoke in the open-air vehicle was nearly intolerable. Our driver spoke no English, and the guide was assigned to two vehicles. I’ll let the pictures below speak for the three breathtaking waterfalls (there was one, which was far from breathtaking). The beach was packed with visitors, and one was expected to order food to secure a table or chair. Jen and I deserted this tour, taking a cab back to the ship. No offer was given to refund all or part of this expensive tour. I waited two days to make a complaint to the tour desk. I wanted to remain positive, but I also wanted the cruise line to know about the disappointing tour. On the bright side…we saw things we would never have seen otherwise.
I took no pictures at the beach…
After the cab dropped us off, we wandered the village at the pier for a few minutes. It was charming, but the boat called us back for a cool ice cream and lunch—not necessarily in that order.
It was great to be back in warm weather, and we relaxed on the ship’s deck for the remainder of the day before departing for an overnight transit to Ilha Grande, Brazil.
Ilha Grande, or “big island,” is a forested island located around 151 km (94 mi) off of the Atlantic coast of Angra dos Reis, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and about 450 km (280 mi) from Sao Paulo. A popular outdoor destination, the island remains largely undeveloped as much of the area falls within Ilha Grande State Park (Parque Estadual da Ilha Grande). Thus, the remainder of the island is subject to stringent development restrictions to preserve the natural environment; vehicles are not permitted, and roads are virtually non-existent. For visitors, an hour-long boat excursion is the sole way to access the island. Several small villas and hamlets cater to researchers, tourists, and nature lovers. Around 2,000 people inhabit the largest town on the island, Vila do Abraao.
For almost a century, the Brazilian government declared the island off-limits, banning unauthorized entry, as it had contained an immigration quarantine station and, later, a maximum-security prison (Colônia Penal de Dois Rios, later known as Instituto Penal Cândido Mendes). The Cândido Mendes Penal Colony, which housed some of the most dangerous offenders in Brazil, was closed in 1994.
The highest point on Ilha Grande is the 1,031 m (3,383 ft) tall Pico da Pedra D’Água.
On July 5, 2019, Ilha Grande and Paraty were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Here, we dared to take two great excursions. We tendered to the pier to sail on a schooner to Ilha Grande’s most idyllic snorkeling spots, the Blue Lagoon, and an isolated beach on the island’s north side. After departing from the pier in the schooner, we sailed off for the Blue Lagoon, a beautiful body of water known for its brilliant color and astounding clarity. During the hour it took to reach the lagoon, we enjoyed a unique perspective of Ilha Grande, taking in its densely forested shoreline. The entire island is protected environmentally, so nature reigns supreme. Upon arriving at the Blue Lagoon, we saw boaters feeding the fish with breadcrumbs, which attracted huge schools. The waters are typically calm and shallow, making the lagoon ideal for snorkeling. Countless species of tropical fish thrive here. The setting couldn’t have been more inviting. Sailing on, we passed Love Beach before coming upon beautiful Praia de Fora, another idyllic beach on the northern tip of Ilha Grande. We enjoyed its golden sand and strolled along the shore. This beach is pristine because of its remote location, and the vegetation is thick and lush right up to the sand. There was a church in the jungle near the beach. We swam for about an hour before sailing back to the pier.
Once back at the pier, we explored the Portuguese-founded island on foot. The bio-diverse wonderland was once notorious as a pirate refuge, leper colony, and Alcatraz-style prison. The prison, known as the “devil’s cauldron,” is now in ruins. As we departed the pier on foot, we were soon immersed in Ilha Grande State Park, a biological reserve established in 1971. Along the way, our guide discussed the park’s flora and fauna, which includes colorful parrots, exotic hummingbirds, and stout capybaras, the world’s largest rodent. Because the entire island is protected environmentally, it boasts one of South America’s most diverse ecosystems. Unfortunately, many of the animals are endangered. After pausing at the lovely San Sebastian church, we learned about Ihla Grande’s infamous past as an entry point for African slaves. A photo opportunity awaited at Black Beach, a beautiful stretch of black sand because it contains so much dark quartz. In the mangrove there, I spotted blue crabs scurrying around. We had some free time to stroll along the shore of Preta Beach before following a trail to Ilha Grande’s old aqueduct, a beautiful structure partially covered with tropical vines. We then had an opportunity to visit a beautiful waterfall before returning to the pier.
The next day, we dropped anchor at Buzios, Brazil. Buzios is a wonderful resort town boasting many inviting beaches, and the Buzios Trolley was the perfect way to get acquainted with this idyllic peninsula. It was a short walk from the tender pier to the trolley, where, once aboard, we set off on a leisurely tour that included seeing twelve beaches and two belvederes. The trolley was open, providing unobstructed views and allowing us to drink in the invigorating pure air and feel the refreshing ocean breezes. As we traveled along the coast, we passed an amazing stretch of golden sand beaches, each highlighting why Buzios is becoming a sought-after destination. The delightful trolley navigation of Buzios included five photo stops and a drive through the downtown area. We found ourselves back at the tender pier after about two delightful hours.
Our super adventure was winding down, and we made our final port at Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The last few days of our time in South America were spent exploring Rio. We took the morning to disembark, and our driver picked us up. He delivered us to our great hotel, only a block from the Copacabana Beach. During a guided tour, we unpacked and explored the rural neighborhood of Santa Teresa and downtown Ancient Rio. When the tour group arrived to pick us up, we were surprised to find the van contained a group of doctors and their spouses from our cruise. In Ancient Rio, we visited the France Brazil House, Arcos da Lapa, Teles Arches, and Praça XV. In Santa Teresa, we admired the stately mansions from the early 1900s and viewed the neighborhood’s original tram, built in 1897. We learned about the importance of both of these neighborhoods in Rio’s past through commentary from our guide. The guide walked us through this iconic neighborhood, stopping briefly at a local art gallery.
The driver picked us up and drove us through the area to our second stop, Centro Cultural Municipal Parque das Ruinas, the former home of Laurinda Santos Lobo, a preeminent female art supporter. The Parque das Ruínas is now a cultural center that continues its legacy of supporting artists everywhere.
From the Cultural Center we wandered together through the beautiful old neighborhood of old downtown Rio. The beautiful architecture, parks, and fountains were amazing. We stopped at the Mother of Merchant of Lapa church during our walk. During our journey through South America, I was surprised to find the churches always open to the public. This particular church was beautifully restored to its original turn-of-the-century beauty. The fantastic fresco on the ceiling was freshly restored with the painter working above to finish the work.
Our last stop of the evening was Confeitaria Columbo. The confections, coffee, ice cream, and light snacks there were delightful. We had a light dinner and Red Velvet Cake. The driver delivered us back to our hotel, where we crashed with exhaustion.
The following morning, we got up early for an epic full-day tour of Rio. Our tour company had selected the best tourist spots in Rio de Janeiro to visit with a unique and dynamic itinerary. The local guide maximized the experience, telling us more curiosities and historical facts about the city.
Our morning started at the Sugarloaf Mountain cable car (Bondinho). Sugarloaf is one of the city’s most beautiful and famous icons. It’s located at the entrance to the city’s Guanabara Bay. It consists of two local lookout points with breathtaking views: Urca Hill (Morro da Urca), which is 227 meters high, and Sugar Loaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar), which is 170 meters higher.
The cable car delivered us to our first stop at Urca Hill, halfway up Sugarloaf. We spent some time there before continuing to the summit of Sugar Loaf, where we could see Botafogo Bay, Guanabara Bay, Pedra da Gavea Mountain, Sea Ridge (Serra do mar), and the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean.
We observed people climbing the mountain, but most, like us, take the cable car.
At the top, we ran into more friends from our cruise. The world is so small these days that there are people with whom we traveled who will be lifelong friends. Many of them have expressed interest in visiting us. Sales for my new Retired in Panama book spiked as people returned home following the cruise. I was sorry I didn’t have copies to share during the cruise.
Following the visit to Sugar Loaf, our morning went on at lightning speed. The driver picked us up and whisked us to Escadaria Selaron. The colorful tiled steps are in the Lapa neighborhood. Therefore, locals call them Lapa Steps (Escadaria da Lapa). It’s the work of Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón (1947-2013), his tribute to the Brazilian people. He moved to Rio in 1980 and lived in a house next to the stairs to the Convent of Santa Teresa. It took him 20 years to decorate the 215 stairs. This is one of the attractions in Rio that you must not miss. The colorful steps were covered with tiles from all over the world. We paused here to take pictures and look for tiles from other places we’ve visited. We did find the Panama Canal tile. As you can see in the pictures, the place was very crowded. I understand it is like that all day, every day…go early for the best experience.
I felt sorry for the bus driver, who had a devil of a time navigating the bus through the crowd to pick us up at the base of the stairs. Once we got the group aboard, we traveled to The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Sebastian. The unusual structure made it one of the most remarkable sights we saw.
The Rio de Janeiro Cathedral, also known as the Metropolitan Cathedral of Sao Sebastiao, stands out among the city’s buildings. The church has a unique structure that leaves people marveling. Everyone who visits is surprised by its history and appearance.
When I looked at the church from the outside, my first thought was it could not be a catholic church because there are no traditional symbols of the Catholic Church. There’s no cross at the top; however, just like all catholic churches, the Rio de Janeiro has a cross as its ultimate symbol. We could see the cross at the top, at the center of a circle, when we stepped inside the church. The cross made of transparent material illuminated light that spread throughout the church, representing the presence of God among his people.
The cathedral has four stained glass windows positioned according to the cardinal points. They approve of the cathedral’s purpose and confirm the church’s four fundamental characteristics: One, Holy, Catholic, and Apostle. One, on the window, is represented by the color green, meaning unity of the church; Holy in red illustrates sanctification and sanctification; Catholic in blue refers to the church’s mission to save men; and Apostolic in yellow alludes to the hierarchy of the Catholic Church.
Conical in form, the cathedral has 96 meters of internal diameter, 106 meters of external diameter, and an overall height of 75 meters. The area is 8000 square meters inside the church and has a capacity of 20,000 people while standing and 5000 while seated. The cathedral’s four windows run 64 meters from the floor to the ceiling, meeting at the top to form a cross.
Edgar de Oliveira da Fonseca, a Brazilian architect, designed the cathedral. The modern style was based on the Mayan architectural style of the Pyramids. Despite the modern pyramid structure, the Mayan architecture dates back several thousands of years. The Mesoamerican pyramids are similar to the Egyptian ones but have a flat top. This was the New World structure used while constructing the cathedral. Most churches in Rio are Gothic in style.
We departed the Cathedral for lunch. Our trip to our lunch location included a brief stop at the Maracanã Stadium. The stadium could be seen from many of the places we visited because of its massive structure. I captured it from above in many photographs and was intrigued by it. Completed in 1950, it is the home stadium of the football clubs Flamengo and Fluminense.
The first impression of visiting Maracanã Stadium is its size. It is among the largest football stadiums in the world, though its capacity has been significantly reduced over the years due to multiple renovations. Built for the World Cup in 1950, it could hold 200,000 standing spectators. The final official attendance of that year’s World Cup between Uruguay and Brazil was 173,830 fans, although some estimates. However, actual attendance was closer to 210,000—a record attendance at a World Cup match that is unlikely to be broken. Brazil lost the game in a shocking upset, and mad Brazilian fans still remember the defeat as the Maracanaço (the Maracanã blow).
The Stadium was designed by seven Brazilian architects, including Raphaël Galvão and Pedro Paulo Bernardes Bastos. It was renamed in 1966 in honor of the journalist who had campaigned successfully to build a new stadium for the 1950 World Cup. While the stadium has been primarily used for football, it has also been used for exhibition matches for other sports, and Pope John Paul II conducted three Masses there. The stadium is also a regular concert venue.
Bellini was honored with a statue at the stadium entrance depicting him lifting the 1958 World Cup trophy. At the end of his international career from 1957 to 1966 with Brazil, he earned 51 caps, captaining the team during the 1958 World Cup in Sweden.
After a wonderful lunch on our tour, we continued to what most people visit Rio to see…Corcovado. The most iconic landmark in Rio is located at the peak of Corcovado Mountain in Tijuca Forest National Park. The Christ the Redeemer statue opened in 1931, and today, it is the best-known symbol of Brazil, in addition to being one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The imposing statue is 32 meters tall and weighs 1,145 tons. We took the elevator and escalators to the base of the statue.
On our last day in Rio, we got up early (4:30 a.m.) to see the sunrise at the Dona Marta Lookout. It was a great visual and photographic experience, suitable for those who want to be at a considerable height and have amazing photos without climbing the Pedra da Gávea. From the top, we saw Guanabara Bay, Niterói, Sugar Loaf Mountain, the Lagoon, and Christ the Redeemer right before our eyes with open arms. The day was a bit cloudy, but our guide took over 200 pictures of us enjoying the sunrise. We shared this place with about fifty others, including a small bridal party. We had to work around the others to get some of the most special photos of our adventure.
The guide delivered us back to our hotel in time for breakfast. We ate and took off on foot to explore Copacabana Beach. The beach is lovely, and a famous wavy mosaic sidewalk is all along the beachfront. Every year, more than two million people go to Copacabana Beach to celebrate New Year’s Eve and watch the most traditional fireworks display in Rio de Janeiro. We strolled to one end and back in time for a light snack and cool drink before meeting the guide for our last excursion in Rio.
The Tijuca National Forest is one of the largest urban rainforests in the world, set on mountain slopes just west of the City of Rio de Janeiro. With this tour, we discovered two of the city’s nature sites, starting with a guided walk through the Jardim Botanical Gardens. The gardens were created by Dom Joao VI in 1808 when the Royal Family of Portugal came to Brazil. There are plant species from several parts of the world. The highlights were the orchid nursery and the rare imperial palms, many over 150 years old. Our tour included Turtle Lake, the Orchid House, and the Japanese Sensory Garden.
We then toured through Tijuca Forest to learn more about the native plants and wildlife. At nearly 4,000 hectares, corresponding to approximately 3.5% of the total municipal area of Rio, Tijuca Forest National Park offers Atlantic Forest attractions and vestiges of Brazil’s history. Tijuca Forest is considered the largest urban forest in the world and is home to exotic and rare species of Brazilian fauna and flora. We stopped to take in the view from the Chinese Vista.
During the 19th century, Rio de Janeiro and its surrounding countryside experienced a constant influx of Chinese immigrants, most of whom arrived as part of a concerted effort to cultivate tea across the region. While, to a large extent, the local tea industry never matured to become globally successful, the Chinese community still left a significant mark on the local culture and history. At the very beginning, when a series of tea plantations were established around the city, a group of migrants from China paved a curvy road across the Tijuca rainforest, connecting Alto da Boa Vista with Jardim Botânico. The road, built to facilitate the movement of goods, was originally embellished with a thatched roof structure nicknamed “Casa das Chinas” (the house of the Chinese).
In 1903, the then mayor Rio Periera Passos, together with the office of forestry, tasked architect Luís Rey with replacing the makeshift shed with a brand-new oriental-style gazebo that paid tribute to the Chinese coolies. Nestled atop the wooded foothills of the Serra da Carioca cliff, the pagoda features a couple of slender beams and columns reminiscent of bamboo culms. Perhaps its most striking part is its pair of light roofs, whose gutters are beautifully decorated with a gargoyle-shaped spout.
Thanks to its scenic location, about 380 meters above sea level, Vista Chinesa is blessed with some of Rio’s most spectacular views. Among the notable places visitors can see are the Christ the Redeemer statue, the Sugarloaf Mountain, Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, the golden beach strip of Ipanema, Leblon, and Morro Dois Irmãos. The timing was perfect for this brief stop. Jen and I reminisced over our wonderful time in Rio while pointing out the places we visited from the magnificent viewpoint.
It was time to travel to our last official site of the tour, Taunay Waterfall. The falls were a delight, and we were surprised to find such a place inside urban Rio.
We spent our last evening in Rio having a quiet dinner and taking an Uber back the hotel to pack. Our driver picked us up early and delivered us to the airport for our flight home.
I realize that I have written more than some of you will read. I spent the time and effort as much for myself as the readers. This gave me time to reflect on our adventure and put the trip in perspective. The blog posts from the past six years of retiring and adventuring in and from Panama are better than a photo album to me. If you haven’t read the blog before now, feel free to go back and explore the archives. It is a great time to subscribe so you will not miss any of our adventures. Next month, we will have some great friends to explore with here in Panama. In June, we’re excited to host our granddaughter, who will want to see more of the country.
Our adventures will take to the world again in September. I’ve been invited to a writers’ conference in Greece. Following the conference, we will meet friends in Athens and cruise to Venice, Italy. Look forward to some great posts from there.
In November we will be taking another cruise adventure of the Caribbean, which will land in Miami. From Miami we will take another item from my bucket list and spend several days in Cuba. You can bet there will be another blog post then.
I won’t even go into our plans for next year. I hope that each of you will sign up to get my weekly newsletter while visiting the blog. The newsletter is published free every Monday, primarily keeping readers up to date on the news from Coronado, Panama. It also gives readers great information about upcoming books and offers. I expect to publish the second mystery thriller of the Detective Larry Saunders Series in October. I’m also working on a Fonda Cookbook, which I hope to have available soon. If you don’t know what a fonda is check out Retired in Panama. There’s an entire chapter there about Panama’s sidewalk eating establishments. Writing and sharing is as much an adventure for me as physically getting aboard a ship or plane and taking off for destinations around the world.
Blessings From Paradise,
Greg and Jen
#WeLovePanama
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Wow!! This looks like an amazing trip! I appreciate the huge number of hours it took to put it all down. Thank you