Musings from Peru

Jen and I maintain that living in Panama is perfect for exploring our bucket list of world destinations. In early December, we headed for Peru to check off a destination that got stuck in cold storage during COVID-19.

We landed in Lima, a port city in the desert with a huge population and dozens of great things to explore. This would be a stopover on our way to Cusco, where we would base while exploring Machu Picchu, Incan ruins, Rainbow Mountain, and more. While in Lima, we saw some great parks, a museum, magnificent dancing fountains, and a mall built into the side of a cliff overlooking the Pacific. We found that transportation outside our prearranged tours was easy and cheap by using Uber.

On day one in Lima, we had a little time to explore and found a great mall constructed on the side of a cliff overlooking the Pacific. When the Uber driver delivered us to the mall he asked if the location was suitable. I didn’t see the mall…only a park. The mall was situated below the park at street level and couldn’t be seen from the street. He told us to take the moving stairs down.  After a short walk through the park, we found the escalator leading down to one of the most amazing shopping destinations we have ever experienced. We didn’t buy anything due to our luggage restrictions, which were coming in a few days when we would be traveling on three domestic flights within the country. We found a restaurant and had lunch before returning to the hotel to prepare for our evening. The tour company was picking us up for the Magic Water Circuit by Night.

Jen and I had a private tour on this one, and the guide was everything you hope for when booking such an excursion. The Magic Water Circuit occupies a complex of green spaces of 180,000 square meters with thirteen ornamental fountains and striking lighting effects that have set the Guinness Record for the largest fountain complex in the world in a public park. The crowds reminded me of Disney. The people were gathering with friends and family to enjoy this magical place. The main pool of the circuit had a fountain that shot water to heights of eighty meters. A crown of vertical jets created fantasy multi-colored laser projections, while the vast central dome water formed the image of a Lily flower.

The main attraction was the “Fuente de la Fantasia,” a cybernetic pool 120 meters long that, thanks to technology, turned water into a dance and color show. The crowds at this fountain were easily ten people deep, making it difficult to get great pictures. Pictures would not do it justice in any case, as it was like a moving picture on the face of a fountain.

We captured pictures of nearly all 13 as we proceeded through the maze of beautiful fountains.  The tour was awesome.

It was a bit cold in Lima to get wet, but we made the trek through the center of the fountain Tunnel of Surprises in the video above. We emerged mostly dry, with the tour guide right behind us.

The next morning, Jen and I were up early with plenty of time for breakfast, a walk in the park across the street, and a visit to an art gallery hosting a unique collection of art called Erosion. It was the last day of the exhibit, and we felt fortunate to have been able to see it. The other really neat thing about our hotel’s location is that great restaurants and shops surrounded the park, unofficially called cat park, and it was full of cats who made it their home. People there feed them, and they seemed more than comfortable to make the park their home. There was an exhibit in the park of local artists displaying and selling their work.

Officially, our tour group was twelve people with whom we would spend most of the first few days in Peru. Jen and I traveled a day early, allowing us that fabulous first-day tour of the magic fountains. On day two, we caught up with the remainder of our group for a tour of Lima’s Colonial Center, the Major Square, the Government Palace, the Cathedral Basilica, the Archbishop’s Palace, and the Municipality of Lima.

We had upgraded our accommodations and selected some upgraded tour experiences, so you will see another couple, Lee and Chelle, with whom we spent most of the time. They also selected some upgrades. We met them that second day in the hotel lobby while waiting for the tour bus.

The afternoon tour was filled with beautiful architecture and great information about Peru. Our guide was the same as the previous night, and we were happy to have her back. She was a fountain of knowledge (no pun intended). A picture paints a thousand words, so I will shamelessly share many amazing pictures without much commentary here. It seems like it was a lifetime ago that we had this tour. It started in The Gran Hotel Bolivar in Colonial Square, which hosted many celebrities and dignitaries. It continued through the Colonial Center, ending in the Convent of San Francisco. In Colonial Peru, a convent was home to Priests.

After the walking tour of the Colonial Center, our tour guide continued to give us details of the history and culture of Lima on our ride back to our hotels in the Miraflores neighborhood. On the ride, one of the other people on tour, a self-proclaimed foodie, told us that one of the top-rated restaurants in the world was near our hotel. They had tried to get in, but it was booked months in advance. With an appetite from a long day of exploring, Jen and I set out on foot for dinner after being dropped off at the hotel. We were grateful for the safe neighborhood. We walked a few blocks to a restaurant recommended by our guide. The food in Peru was good. We avoided a few things, like the guinea pig, at the advice of the tour operator.

The following morning, we had breakfast, and the tour company picked us up for our domestic flight to Cusco. The flight was relatively short, taking us from the desert climate just above sea level in Lima to the highest altitude commercial airport in the world at Cusco. The altitude in Cusco is just over 11,150 feet above sea level. From the airport in Cusco, we were whisked away to Sacred Valley, where they left us at our hotels. Sacred Valley is at a slightly lower altitude than Machu Picchu, which is just under 8,000 feet. We had the remainder of the day free to acclimate to the altitude. Our hotel was a fifteenth-century monastery, San Agustin Monasterio de la Recoleta. It was a bit off the beaten path. We found cocoa tea available, which we sipped to make the altitude more bearable. Many people in the tour group took drugs for altitude sickness. Experts say to avoid alcohol and red meat while keeping portions small and consuming extra water to avoid altitude sickness. Jen and I took the advice of the experts and took a regimen of an herbal remedy, which we picked up at the pharmacy in Lima. Our struggle with the altitude was minimal. We had a light dinner in the hotel and turned in early to rest for our tour of Machu Picchu the following day.

One of the upgrades was our accommodations at the San Agustin de la Recoleta. Another was the magnificent 360-degree Vistadome train ride to Aguas Calientes, where we would board a passenger bus for the fifteen-minute ride to the base of Machu Picchu.

We were delighted by the mountain vistas on the train ride, which lasted almost two hours. We were served coffee and a snack while enjoying a cultural performance of actors dressed in period Incan costumes. The train ride seemed short, with the beautiful views touching nearly all of our senses. After leaving the train, we boarded the passenger bus, which navigated the remainder of the trip to Machu Picchu. The bus traversed the steep mountain road, weaving through many switchbacks. This is the only way to reach Machu Picchu for old people. Traditionally, people will hike the Inca Trail to the ruins. Hiking the Inca Trail is difficult, and hikers need adequate physical preparation. Some sections of the route are more difficult than others, involving steep ascents, high altitudes, and long days on the trail.

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is the most famous and one of the best hikes in South America. Few routes can compete with it, as it contains along its route several archaeological sites over 500 years old and mountains that leave you with your mouth open. History tells us that the Inca Empire stretched across territories in what is now Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Brazil, and Bolivia, and the original trail extended approximately 25,000 miles through these areas.

During the 15th and 16th centuries, the Inca Trail was used as a key trade route and for transportation. However, some parts were also used for ceremonial purposes. Therefore, there are many fascinating theories about the purpose of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, built at the height of the Inca Empire. Researchers believe it served as an annual pilgrimage route in honor of Inti, the Inca Sun God, who is believed to have been born on the Island of the Sun in Lake Titicaca. The trail is said to follow the path of the Sun’s rays during certain times of the year, from Lake Titicaca to Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is extensive as it covers all of Peru and reaches Ecuador in the north and Bolivia in the south, but if we talk about the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, it takes 2 to 4 days to cover. To hike this route to Machu Picchu, the Peru government requires you to hire an authorized guide service or tour company with the necessary permits to take hikers on the trip.

I advise you to take this adventure while still young enough to hike on the Inca Trail. For our purposes, my only regret was that we didn’t get the permit for the hike to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain, the highest mountain behind the Inca citadel. This incredible excursion takes approximately 4 hours round trip, starting at the citadel of Machu Picchu, walking through the Inca Trail hidden under the forest, and reaching the top of this impressive mountain. The government allows only 400 people per day to make this hike.

My research indicated that you would find yourself surrounded by a variety of flowers and wildlife, including orchids, begonias, ferns, and beautiful hummingbirds, while enjoying the exceptional view of the citadel of Machu Picchu, the Urubamba River flowing below and all the sacred mountains surrounding Machu Picchu.

The Machu Picchu Mountain has a special meaning for the Incas. Below this mountain, two rivers from the most sacred mountains of the Incas come together in a confluence. From the south runs the Urubamba River that rises in the Ausangate area, and from the west comes the Aobamba River that rises in the Salkantay Mountain. For this reason, the Machu Picchu Mountain becomes a monument of worship to the sacred waters.

Reaching the top of this mountain requires moderate climbing ability, as there are parts where it is very steep, but it is not considered dangerous. The hiking trail is well maintained; it is a paved path with many steps, although it zigzags in places.

Many tourists who climb Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain consider the latter to have a beautiful view. Still, Huayna Picchu is the better option in terms of Inca engineering.

The tour of the main sites of Machu Picchu took us about two hours. There are days when we were told the ruins can be very crowded. Tickets are limited to 2500 sold per day. Many of the important sites of Machu Picchu are no longer accessible on a single ticket. For example, the entrance of Huayna Picchu will require a separate ticket.

The Sanctuary of Machu Picchu is considered one of the most beautiful and mystical places of the Inca Empire. It is located between the mountains of Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. Walking among the ancient walls, gates, paths, and stairways gives a unique feeling to this archaeological site, which will transport you back many centuries. Spanish conquerors never reached Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu was declared a Peruvian Historic Sanctuary in 1982 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. In 2007, Machu Picchu was voted one of the World’s New Seven Wonders in a worldwide internet poll.

On the day we were there, the weather was cool and misty. The crowds were tolerable, and our tour was a delight. I cultivated some of the history and information above from www.machu-picchu.org and Wikipedia. The guides are a wealth of information; however, remembering everything they share is nearly impossible. We left this magical place and returned to our hotel. It was late when we returned, and we turned in early for an early return to Cusco the next morning.

On day six of our adventure, we traveled back to Cusco. The tour company delivered us to our hotel, and we took the opportunity to explore a bit and grab some lunch. The Plaza de Armas, or Main Plaza, is one of the main tourist attractions of the city of Cusco. We found it about four blocks from our hotel. Here, we found a couple of great Peruvian restaurants, shops, and a flurry of activity. Several religious temples (the Cathedral, the Church of the Society of Jesus, and the Chapel of Triumph) are accompanied by beautiful portals with colonial arches. The square was decorated for Christmas, and we were lucky to witness some traditional celebrations during our visits there. The walk was easy, and we felt safe even at night.

Jen and I had arranged a Pisco Tasting Experience for the early evening. Most visitors to Peru only try the national liquor mixed into a Pisco Sour. Our Pisco tasting tour offered a deeper insight through tastings of different varieties and infused Pisco’s. We learned to taste and pair Pisco properly and how to mix a classic Pisco Sour and Chilcano cocktail. Small appetizer dishes accompanied the tastings.

Jose closed the class by presenting several Piscos infused with different things. We particularly enjoyed the ghost pepper-infused Pisco. However, the fruits were delightful as well. We will be infusing some Pisco when we return to Panama. Pisco is not widely available in the United States. It’s produced in Peru and Argentina; however, the Argentinian Pisco may not be as good. Look for it to be crystal clear (not yellow).

Jose is very passionate about the birds of Peru and conducts birdwatching tours. He shared something of great importance to him. He informed us that 20% of the proceeds from our class help fund the Avistando Peru Project—the first channel in Peru that promotes birdwatching in Spanish among Peruvians. Participation helps make a significant impact on the environment and nature conservation in Peru. The aim is to combat ongoing pollution, illegal logging, wildlife hunting, and other factors threatening our world.

Following the Pisco Experience, we returned to our hotel and prepared for a full day of tours on day seven. Our time in Peru was moving at warp speed, and we were exhausted.

We were impressed with our accommodations in Cusco. It was part of the upgrade plan. The Hotel Xima was beautiful and comfortable but convenient and in a location where we could walk to almost everything. There was a huge artisan market and a park across the street. There were also many restaurants within walking distance and a nice Peruvian Restaurant in the hotel lobby. The breakfasts were good, and the staff was attentive.

We woke up early, rested for adventure, and had breakfast in the hotel before meeting our tour group for the last day we would spend together. The tour company had us touring many interesting places. Our first stop, Tambomachay, is an Inca archaeological site outside Cusco. Its precise function is unknown, but it may have served as a ceremonial site, an Inca spa, or a military outpost—or perhaps a mix of all three.

It sits on a hill about 4 miles north of Cusco, about 12,150 feet above sea level. The structure consists of three stepped terraces of precise Inca stonework, with trapezoidal niches built into some retaining walls. The whole thing is built over a natural spring, continuously feeding a series of small aqueducts, canals, and waterfalls built into the terraces.

As with so many Incan archaeological sites, there’s a strong possibility that Tambomachay served more than one purpose. It was easy to imagine it as a military outpost, a ceremonial center, or a spa for overworked Inca rulers. We quickly learned that the Inca empire stretched for what is now several countries and approximately 2500 miles of trails connecting hundreds of ruins similar to Machu Picchu. It is believed that Cusco was the center of the Incan Empire.

From Tambomachay, our group traveled to an alpaca farm. The farm sat behind a textile store where we learned about the raising and manufacturing of Alpaca, Vicuna, Cuanaco, and Llama wool. Baby Alpaca garments are made from only the first shearing of the Alpaca. We learned to tell the difference and purchased some Baby Alpaca gloves for our upcoming trip around South America in March. The weather at Cape Horn will require some warm garments.

Our next stop was the ruins at Saqsaywaman, a former Inca fortress perched atop the hill above Cusco, an ancient ruin with an eye-catching landscape. On a clear day, the views over the city and valley will take your breath away.

Saqsaywaman is an extraordinary site with three terraces built by the Incas for fortification purposes. Moreover, Saqsaywaman is a part of UNESCO sites in the Cusco area.

Fitting the huge boulders with surgical precision was the Inca’s trademark, and this site has some excellent structures proving this point. And the Incas did all this precise work without using a mortar. More than twenty thousand workers moved the massive chunks of stone from the local quarries without the knowledge of the wheel is just another mind-blowing piece of trivia.

Without any doubt, Saqsaywaman is one of the best ruins in Cusco.

Our next visit was another interesting Inca site, Q’enco. The rock carving done here is quite a feat. Floors, ceilings, walls, tables, and niches were carefully carved from living rock. Without a doubt, it was a place of worship for secret and hidden rites. The site builders completed their composition with service rooms on the perimeter. It also has platforms and channels for the evacuation of rainwater.

The mystery of the Andean cult is one of the attractions of the Inca culture. The so-called “Room of Sacrifices” creates doubts that have not yet been resolved. It is an underground chamber carved entirely out of a gigantic rock. The lower portion of the great rocky area has carved floors, ceilings, walls, tables, cupboards, and openings. It is said that this underground chamber may have been used to embalm dried apricots, but it is also possible that human and animal sacrifices were carried out there.

Our guide explained that important Inca leaders may have been buried here, with the common people being buried in graves nearby. He believes the “Room of Sacrifices” may have been a simple embalming room where the dead were prepared for burial. The platform in the chamber was very cold to the touch, making it an excellent place to perform this task.

We took the trail through the site, which led us through the Morticians Chamber and to a magnificent view of Cusco. The driver picked us up at the end of the trail.

We moved on to our next stop at Coricancha. It’s a place you can’t miss in Cusco for its amazing construction and the historical treasure adorning its walls. When the Spanish arrived in Cusco, they destroyed most of Coricancha, and the Santo Domingo Church was built on the foundations and the remaining walls of the temple, preserving only a small part of its indigenous beauty. These ruins are located in Santo Domingo Plaza in Cusco.

Coricancha was the center of Cusco in more ways than just geographical. It was also the religious center, a sacred place where appreciation was shown for Inti, the Inca Sun God. It was the only temple that existed for religious ceremonies and was the most sacred temple of all the Incas. To enter the temple, worshippers needed to have been barefoot, fasting, and carrying a heavy load upon their backs as a sign of humility to the god.

Many historians have written that once the Spanish arrived in Cusco, they were blinded by its grandeur; every wall was covered with a layer of gold, and there were deities everywhere to celebrate the different gods of the Inca Empire, such as a silver depiction of the Moon Goddess. The concentration of the precious metals made the whole area shine. There were animal figures made entirely from gold filling the gardens, and the Spaniards had never seen so much gold in one place before. Most of these pieces were sent to the King of Spain as a ‘thank you’ for allowing the expeditions to South America to take place.

We continued to the Cathedral of Cusco. No pictures were allowed inside the Cathedral. It was so beautiful that it left a lump in my throat. Regardless of your religious belief, this is one place that you don’t want to miss.

It has splendid altars of Renaissance, Baroque, and neoclassical styles. Its carved wooden pulpit and the choir stalls are magnificent works of Cusquenian craftsmanship. It also highlights its collection of canvases of the Cuzco school with works by Diego Quispe Tito, Basilio Santa Cruz Pumacallo, Basilio Pacheco, and Marcos Zapata, creator of a unique “last supper” in which the main dish is roasted guinea pig. The Sacristy is decorated with several paintings of the bishops who have ruled the Archbishopric of Cusco. The choir of the Cathedral is built of cedar wood, Baroque with Neoclassical style. The main altar of the Cathedral was decorated with the most important colonial gold and silver work in South America, using more than 1250 kilos of silver. There are around 300 paintings, which were the inspiration of different indigenous, mestizo, and European artists.

This was the last stop with our original tour group. The tour company delivered us to our hotels after we visited Plaza de Armas (The Main Plaza). Our guide for the day shared a great photo of the group below. A couple of people were missing from the day’s tour. After a week in Peru, many were exhausted, and a few were under the weather or suffering from the altitude.

The other couple, Lee and Chelle, who were on the upgrade plan, went with us to a dinner that the tour company had organized. This replaced something that had to be canceled due to a shortage of interest. The four of us were picked up and transported to a restaurant on the main square. Our dinner and show were included in the package. While the show was entertaining, the authentic Peruvian food was not so good. It was good to have this opportunity to visit with them again before they departed. With the entire group leaving early the next morning, Jen and I would have two more days to adventure in Cusco.

We wished Lee and Chelle a fond farewell in the hotel lobby before leaving for the night. Jen and I had a couple of tours planned for our bonus days in Cusco. We wanted to be fresh and rested. The best was yet to come. If you’re thinking that this is a long post, you’re right. Don’t leave now, or you’ll miss the best of our Peru adventure. Still to come are more great Inca Ruins, the Salt Flats at Maranas, Rainbow Mountain, the Amazon Rain Forest, and purchasing some souvenirs along with Baby Alpaca treasures.

The next morning, we got up and had breakfast in the hotel. Our tour guide picked us up in front of the hotel, and off we went on a tour that ended up being private. When tours don’t fill up, they often cancel them, but in this case, we had the driver and tour guide all to ourselves. Our first adventure was at another textile place. We spent about a half hour sipping Cocoa Tea, learning about Alpaca wool, and shopping a bit. The people working here were all dressed in costume and had a great selection of things. The prices weren’t the best we had seen, and we were still timid about purchasing much before our final two domestic flights. We didn’t want to be overweight. We found one Baby Alpaca table runner that we bought.

Our next destination was our last Inca ruin, possibly one of the most unusual and memorable. Moray is believed to have served as an important agricultural research center for the Incas, demonstrating their advanced ability to cultivate various crops in the challenging Andean environment.

The site is best known for its three groups of circular terraces. Each of these terraces has 12 levels, with the largest depression having a spectacular diameter of 600 feet. From the highest terrace to the lowest, the descent is about 490 feet, making the Moray ruins one of the most fascinating man-made sites.

Many archaeologists and anthropologists believe the Moray ruins were once used for agricultural experiments. Some of the evidence that supports that is the extensive irrigation system (fueled by water from a reservoir located high in the mountains) engineered into the terraces.

Another fascinating observation is the temperature difference. From the highest to the lowest terrace, the temperature differs by 41 °F, and the sun hits each terrace at different angles and intensities.

The microclimate at Moray likely allowed the Incas to do agricultural research and identify the best conditions for crops to thrive. Even more, all this suggests that the Incas utilized their knowledge of the environment to capitalize on their natural resources.

While there is no written evidence, based on the agricultural practices in the Andean region, the Incas likely farmed crops such as potatoes and quinoa, as well as Amazonian plants suited to milder temperatures. Corn was likely another major crop cultivated at Moray due to its significance in different religious ceremonies in the Inca Empire.

From Moray, we continued to the salt mines of Maras. Like a blanket of snow covering the slopes of Andean mountains, they extend beautifully into the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It’s a spectacular view of more than 300 pools in various colorful shades. The salt mines are located in an orogenic depression called “Cachi Raqay,” a Quechua term that translates into Spanish means “salt gorge.” This gorge is located on the slopes of the Cruzmoqo mountain and at the base of the Llaully Moqo and Chupayoq Moqo mountains.

In the 1980s, the people of Maras took possession of the salt mines. They established the company Marasal S.A., owned by the communities of Maras and Pichingoto, which is responsible for managing and marketing salt for the domestic and world markets. Today, about 400 families own the salt pools. Each family manages their pools, contributing to the positive economy of the area.

On our last full day in Cusco, Jen and I enjoyed the best time in Peru. Our day started at 4:00 a.m. when the tour operator picked us up.  After two and a half hours, we stopped in the town of Japura for breakfast. Most of the way, the tour bus had been quiet while we and the eight other adventurers tried to get some sleep on the ride.

We were bound for Rainbow Mountain, a painted land unlike any other. The sweeping valley of vibrant colors, ranging from lavender, turquoise, and red, causes one to wonder how this is possible. The vibrant coloration in Rainbow Mountain’s layers is largely due to the weather and mineralogy. The red-tinted layers often indicate iron oxide rust as a trace mineral. Think of it like this: you know how a nail will rust and turn red when oxidized? The same reaction happens here. Specific sediment that is exposed to oxygen and water will change color. In addition, the sedimentary layers have been tilted on their side, exposing stripped intervals.

Not only is the mountain a beautiful place to reconnect with nature, but it is also a site of worship. Since pre-Inca times, Peruvians have believed Rainbow Mountain to be the deity of Cusco and refer to the land as an Apu (a worship site). To this day, the locals return to Rainbow Mountain for daily worship and to give offerings.

Our trek to Rainbow Mountain continued after a filling breakfast. The tour operator instructed us for our ATV adventure for the remainder of our ride. As the sun rose, the steep dirt road up the mountain had everyone’s attention. The vistas of the Andes Mountains with the rushing rivers below and beside the van kept our attention as the driver navigated the road.

Nearly an hour after breakfast, we reached the place where we hopped onto our ATVs and continued our journey. The views were spectacular, and the one-hour ride went by in a breeze. This was much better than hiking the entire distance to the summit of Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain). The tour operator instructed us that we had three options from that point. We could hike the remaining 1.5 km to the summit, ride with a native on a motorcycle, or take a horse. Despite the altitude, Jen and I opted to hike it. We felt good and capable of the distance. I should mention that the mountain has an altitude of 17,100 feet above sea level.

The 35-minute hike was far longer for us. We underestimated the lack of oxygen and its effect on our bodies. Jen took a horse around the halfway point, and I continued on foot. I was the oldest of the ten adventurers and the only one to hike it in both directions. I was exhausted beyond belief.

The hike down was far easier, and the ATVs were waiting for our return to the tour bus. The bus ride from there was frightful. Many of our fellow adventurers refused to watch. On the return to Cusco, we stopped at the same place where we had breakfast for an authentic Peruvian lunch buffet. It was late afternoon when we were dropped back at our hotel.

We didn’t have to rush the following morning. We packed our backpacks with the essentials for three days in the Jungle and put the remainder in our suitcases to be stored at the dock in Puerto Maldonado. The anticipation of spending the next three days in the Amazon Rainforest drove our imagination. The tour company picked us up after breakfast and delivered us to the airport for our domestic flight.  We were heading into the jungle. Three days of complete isolation and electronic detox.

We arrived at Puerto Maldonado airport, which had two gates. The resort company picked us up and transferred us to the pier for the 45-minute boat ride along the winding Madre de Dios River for our Amazon adventure. The motorized wooden boat hugged the meandering riverbank to reach our lodge, Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, nestled in the heart of the rainforest. After a short briefing, we settled into our palm-thatched cabana in the private ecological reserve established to protect the sensitive environment. After unpacking and getting things figured out, we took a walk around the trails of the resort to immerse ourselves in the Amazon basin’s biodiversity and the rainforest’s layers. We wound our way through the towering trees while our ears tuned in to the croaks, rustles, and calls of the exotic wildlife inhabiting this rich ecosystem.

Our guide at Inkaterra was the best of the best. He made sure we never had a dull moment during our visit. Some of our small group enjoyed the spa, while others couldn’t wait for the next adventure. We were split into two groups, with those who spoke English in one and Spanish speakers in another. Our guide, who spoke perfect English, had lived his entire life in the jungle. The first night, we had a twilight river excursion to witness the jungle transform from a diurnal to a nocturnal world. Great pictures are difficult at this time of night. We spotted some Caiman lurking in the water near the bank and heard the calls of the monkeys. We returned to the lodge for drinks and a fantastic dinner after our excursion. The food and drinks at the resort were top-notch.

Our guide took us to Lake Sandoval on the morning of the first full day. The lake was reached by taking the wood boat to Tambopata National Reserve. We hiked a sun-dappled jungle trail from the pier while our guide pointed out flora, fauna, and an occasional camouflaged creature.

When we reached the lake, we boarded a dug-out canoe to quietly paddle through the mangroves and glide onto Lake Sandoval, flanked by the palm jungle. The lake is home to thousands of species of birds, including the endangered giant otter, red howler monkeys, red-bellied macaws, anacondas, side-neck turtles, and black caiman. We didn’t see many of these, but I got pictures of some. Jen will tell you she’s thankful not to have seen an anaconda.

After our return to the resort, we enjoyed a great lunch before embarking on another adventure. The Inkaterra Canopy Walkway is a sophisticated 1,135-foot network of seven ecologically constructed hanging suspension bridges strung between eight treetop observation platforms above the forest floor. This was an unforgettable opportunity to observe the rainforest above the canopy, giving a sense of its colossal size. When we reached the first tower, Jen not only said no… she said hell, no. She and another adventurer, who also feared heights, declined to participate.

That night, we had torrential rain, which dampened our ability to adventure the following morning. This is what anyone may expect in the middle of the Amazon Rainforest. We relaxed with a book in the lodge and waited for another adventure opportunity. Many people we arrived with were departing, and others were filtering in. We met some very interesting people. After the rain stopped and we enjoyed a beautiful lunch, our guide tracked us down and asked if we would like to have a tour of the Lagoon at Hacienda Concepcion, a sister resort thirty minutes upstream from ours. It formally functioned as a medical center set up by Catholic missionaries in the 1950s and a center for ecological research. With over 200 different plant species, the rainforest is often considered the world’s largest pharmacy. We would take a hike through the jungle to the lagoon and a thirty-minute canoe ride in the shallow backwaters of the river. We jumped at the opportunity.

The time had passed too quickly, and we were winding down our last day in the Jungle. After another delicious dinner, our expert guide took us, armed with flashlights, into the jungle for a two-hour adventure. Under the cover of darkness, our senses were heightened by the movements in the undergrowth and nocturnal forest sounds appearing from all directions. On our adventure, we, again, didn’t encounter any anaconda but saw some of the creepiest bugs anywhere.

Our time in the jungle was delightful, but we had to pack our bags for a 6:00 a.m. departure. The lodge turned on the hot water for showers at 4:30, the chef had our breakfast ready at 5:00, and we were going up the river toward our place of beginning by sunrise.

We boarded our flight to Miami with a long layover in Lima and a second layover in Panama City. The trip was a long day of travel. We claimed our luggage in Lima and went to a hotel to regroup and enjoy a few more hours in the city where our adventure began. We ordered an Uber and returned to the mall on the cliff, where we took what we learned about purchasing Baby Alpaca garments and found a store to buy a couple of beautiful sweaters. The sweaters will be wonderful on our next adventure cruising the perimeter of South America in March. The weather will be cool as we round Cape Horn and take an excursion to the Falkland Islands, where we will see penguins. After our shopping trip, we repacked and napped to prepare for our continued flight to Miami.

When we landed in Miami, we rented a car and drove north through Alligator Alley to our condo in Port Charlotte. The time in Port Charlotte allowed us to prepare our condo for the arrival of our snowbird tenants and enjoy the holidays with family. I hoped for a couple of book events to promote my new fiction thriller, Murder in Eagle Cove. The events didn’t pan out due to the holidays. I did, however, connect with a great little bookstore, Copperfish Books, in Punta Gorda, where we hope soon to have the book available. My family were great sports, posing for fan photos during our visit.

Murder in Eagle Cove is available wherever books and digital media are sold. Click here for a list of retailers to order now or leave a review. Reviews help others find the book.

Thank you for enjoying our recent adventure vicariously through us. Peru was one of the most amazing places we have visited.

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Blessings from Panama,

Greg and Jen