Murder on the Beach A Detective Larry Saunders Short Story

Aside from the roaring waves, the beach on Cape Cod Bay was quiet and peaceful. The families had retreated with the sun, and the couple was alone, settled comfortably on a blanket just short of the pounding surf. The silence between the roar of each crashing wave gave her time to ponder what she had to say.

“I have something to tell you,” she said. “There’s someone else.”

“What do you mean?” he stammered.

“I’m sleeping with someone else. It was time you knew.”

“What do you mean you’re sleeping with someone else? I thought we had something special.”

“I don’t love you,” she replied without remorse, relieved to have it off her chest.

He found breathing difficult, gasping and sucking in air as another wave crashed. The ocean’s rage consumed every inch of his body as he stood, red in the face and quivering. She just sat dumbfounded as he grasped a large piece of driftwood and began to bludgeon her. He started with her head as she screamed. He beat her until her body was lifeless, beating, beating, beating while his rage began to subside.

He stumbled backward from the body, staring and shaking with one lone tear trickling down his face. The driftwood fell from his grasp as he watched wave after wave crash on the shore. He had no idea how much time passed as he stood in shock. Before he turned to leave, the tide had begun approaching the lifeless body, and waves lapped under it, washing her into the surf. The sand squished between his toes as he turned and stumbled across the moonlit beach to the dark trail leading to the parking lot. Not a soul was on the beach to witness his brutal loss of control.

As he crested the trail into the parking lot, moonlight gave way to the overhead lights, throwing long shadows. Under the eerie glow of the parking lot, he was becoming aware of his surroundings and the magnitude of what had just happened. He had killed the girl he loved and was covered head to foot in blood spatter.

The young couple parked at the beach. Only one other vehicle was parked here, and they would have the beach to themselves. They could hardly keep their hands off each other, exiting the car grabbing a blanket and cooler from the back seat. He grabbed at her as she giggled and ran toward the beach. She didn’t see the man emerge from the trail, smacking right into his wet, sweaty body. She noticed the smell of his sweat reeked of fear before noticing that his clothes and hands were covered in blood. She quickly backed away, apologizing, hoping he would continue. The man said nothing, sidestepping her and continuing to his truck.

Looking down at herself before her boyfriend got to her side, she realized she was covered in blood from bumping into the stranger. Adrenaline rocked her body as her arms and legs began to shake. She sat down on a large rock at the edge of the lot while her boyfriend consoled her. He memorized the license plate of the stranger’s truck as it raced from the parking lot.

“Call nine-one-one,” she said. “Something is wrong here.”

Without a word, her boyfriend took his phone and made the call, telling the operator about the stranger emerging from the beach covered in blood. He provided their location information and was asked to wait for an officer to arrive.

“No way was I going out onto the beach now anyway,” his girlfriend said, still shaking with fear. “What if the guy comes back? Are we safe here?”

“I think we’ll be safe. The police are on their way,” he said, reaching into the cooler and opening a Coke Zero for her.

Her hands shook as she took the soda, and the two shared it while they waited silently for the police to arrive.

The wait was short. Eagle Cove police officer Larry Saunders responded to the dispatch call for an unusual situation at the beach parking lot. Saunders was a veteran of the small Eagle Cove Police Department. Eagle Cove, Massachusetts, is a small, friendly community where people enjoy safe streets and an absence of violent crime. Larry had never investigated a murder.

When he drove into the parking lot with the red and blue lights flashing, he quickly spotted the individual who made the nine-one-one call waving his arms by the rocks leading to the beach trail. Larry pulled up to the couple sitting on the rocks, immediately registering the young lady trembling, covered in blood transfer.

He asked what happened in as compassionate a voice as he could muster. The young couple related the story to him while he jotted down notes. He called for backup from the Plymouth County Sheriff’s Department, giving details of the strange man covered in blood and the make, model, and license of the truck he had left driving.

“Do you mind waiting here for the sheriff’s deputy while I look around on the beach,” Larry asked.

“We’ll be okay,” replied the young man.

Larry grabbed the flashlight from his belt and used it to guide his way onto the beach trail. Once he emerged onto the beach, the moonlight bolstered his ability to see. It was easy to follow the barefoot tracks of the stranger. Spots of blood glistened in the beam of his flashlight, making the tracks easy to follow. Larry avoided stepping near the tracks, proceeding cautiously in their direction.

He found the young woman’s body, about forty feet from the trail, bobbing in the surf, partially tangled in a blanket. Floating nearby was a blood-stained piece of driftwood and two pairs of flip-flops. Larry photographed the scene with his cellphone before calling for the coroner and crime scene team. He asked that Plymouth County put an APB on the truck the stranger had left in. The tide was still coming in. Larry was forced to compromise the scene before it did it for him. He slipped on latex gloves and dragged the body from the water, moving it further up on the beach. He then collected the flip-flops and driftwood before returning to the trailhead and making a video of the barefoot tracks in the sand. Reviewing the recording to ensure he captured the blood droplets before Mother Nature washed away the evidence. He walked back through the trail and asked the couple to send the crime scene team in when they arrived. He also apologetically requested them not to let anyone else enter the beach. It will be a long night, Larry thought, turning and returning to the beach.

As one of only three patrol officers in the tiny Eagle Cove police department, the responsibility of solving this murder will fall squarely on Larry’s shoulders. He stood on the beach while the surf pounded. His hair was standing on the back of his neck. He looked around for more clues, pondering the terrible act of violence that had taken place here. His hands shook, and anger surged through his extremities. He wondered who could do such a thing to this beautiful young woman.

It seemed like forever before the crime scene team and the coroner arrived. They took control of the scene while Larry shared his pictures with the deputy in charge. He monitored the radio carefully, awaiting an apprehension of the stranger who had stumbled into the parking lot and driven away in his truck. He interviewed the young couple while waiting for the coroner and crime scene team to leave, recording their statements in his spiral notebook. After getting their contact information, the crime scene technician asked for the young woman’s stained clothes. He provided her with a Tyvek suit to change into, and she went behind their car to change, complying with the request. After her clothes were bagged, Larry told them they could go, thanking them for their help.

Soon, the body was brought from the beach and loaded into the coroner’s van. The scene was cleared, and everyone left, leaving Larry to begin his investigation. Before he reached the station, a call came across to radio of the truck and driver detained near the outskirts of Eagle Cove. A Plymouth County sheriff’s deputy had stopped the vehicle in response to the APB posted earlier. Larry turned on lights and sirens, racing to the scene of the stop. When he arrived, he found the sheriff’s deputy standing at the side of the truck, talking to the man inside. Upon joining the conversation, Larry noted the man was still covered in blood spatter, shaking and speechless. He had refused to say anything to the deputy.

Larry and the deputy walked to the truck’s rear to evaluate the situation and devised a plan to arrest the individual on suspicion of murder. Larry would transport him to Eagle Cove Police Station for questioning. The deputy would wait for a wrecker to haul the truck to the crime lab at Plymouth County. The deputy called in the arrest while Larry returned to the truck’s window.

“I’m going to ask you to exit the vehicle with your hands in clear view,” Larry said.

The man popped open his door and got out, raising his blood-soaked, shaking hands. Larry put cuffs on him, took him to his cruiser, and deposited him in the back seat. He got into the driver’s seat and took off for the station without hesitation. On the short ride, he called the chief, requesting that he meet him at the station. Once parked at the curb in front of the station, he took his prisoner inside and into an interview room. There, he cuffed him to the ring in the center of the stainless-steel table and relieved him of his personal belongings before leaving him to think about what would happen next.

While he waited for the chief to arrive, he called in wants and warrants on the man. He learned there were no outstanding warrants and, by the address on the driver’s license, he was a resident of Eagle Cove. He checked to be sure the recording equipment in the interview room was playing in the conference room adjacent to where the man sat cuffed to the table. He watched the man shaking and whimpering inside. Making good use of his time, he printed out each of the pictures from his phone on the color printer and a copy of the Miranda rights form. Larry was ready to begin his interview when the chief arrived at the station. He laid the pictures out for the chief to see and explained that this man was suspected of killing a young woman on the beach. “I’m going to go in and interview him now.”

“I’ll observe from the conference room,” the chief replied.

Larry entered the interview room with his shoulders back and a firm, confident stance. He carried a file folder, which he dropped on the table in front of the suspect. Staring into his deep blue eyes, Larry began reading the suspect his rights. “Do you understand your rights as I have explained them to you?”

“Yes,” he stammered.

“For the record, state your name.”

“Roger Clark.”

Mr. Clark, here’s a copy of your rights as I have read them to you. It states that you’re talking to me of your own free will,” Larry said while taking the Miranda rights form from the file and putting it in front of the suspect.

Clark read the form while his body shook from adrenaline. His red face was barely noticeable from the blood spatter still present but smeared from wiping his hand across it. Larry released one side of the cuffs and laid the pen down for him to sign the form. Larry was surprised to see his suspect manipulate the paper so he could hold it with his right hand and sign with his left. He continued to shake and whimper, volunteering nothing. With the form signed, Larry took the pen back and gave him a bottle of water.

“Where have you been tonight?” Larry asked.

“I had a date that ended early,” Clark responded.

Larry’s eyes widened, and he attempted to stare into his suspect’s eyes. Clark refused eye contact. Larry took the pictures of the woman who had been bludgeoned to death on the beach from his folder and began laying them down one by one on the table. “Did your date die on the beach tonight?”

Clark refused to answer, staring down at the table but avoiding even a glance at the pictures.

“Look at the pictures, Mr. Clark. Did you beat that woman to death on the beach?” Larry waited a moment without a response. “Why do you have blood all over yourself? Is that her blood from the terrible beating you gave her?” Still no response. Clark continued whimpering and shaking uncontrollably. “What did she do to deserve to be beaten like that?”

“I want a lawyer,” Clark finally said.

“Makes no difference to me,” Larry replied, taking the pictures of the flip-flops and the driftwood out and placing them in front of him. I’m sure that we’ll find your fingerprints and DNA on these items. “Where’re your shoes? You may need them when we take you to county for booking.”

Clark remained silent as Larry stood and left the interview room.

The chief met Larry outside the room and asked about transporting the suspect to county. The tiny station had nobody else working this late, so Larry asked the chief to transport the suspect with him. Chief agreed. They got a pair of Tyvek booties from the storage room and slipped them on the suspect before loading him into the back of Larry’s cruiser. The ride was quiet, with the suspect sitting in the back, silently shaking and mumbling.

Upon arrival at Plymouth County jail, the suspect was fingerprinted and booked for murder. They took his clothes, providing him with an orange jumpsuit. His clothes were bagged and sent to the crime lab before he was allowed to make a call and lodged in a cell.

Larry arrived early at the station the following day and began combing through the report from the crime lab. The blood on Roger Clark’s clothes was a match for the victim. His fingerprints had been lifted from the driftwood, and the flip-flops retrieved from the beach were confirmed as his size. The truck, which had been impounded, and a search warrant obtained. A purse in the truck contained identification matching the victim. Larry called the coroner to confirm the identity of the victim. The coroner confirmed a match to the identification found in Clark’s truck. He asked the coroner to send over his report as soon as possible.

He began drafting his report while waiting for the coroner’s report to be faxed. By the time he had finished his task, the coroner’s report had arrived, and he could attach it and the crime scene investigators’ report to his. He then drove to the victim’s address to make the notification. This was a task to which Larry did not look forward. He didn’t know who he would find at the address. It could be a roommate, or it could be her parents. In any case, he didn’t discount the possibility that someone there may be able to add motive to the vicious crime.

Larry parked his cruiser in front of a run-down apartment building just off the highway. He located the unit number and checked his appearance before knocking on the door. A young woman answered with a puzzled look on her face.

“Is this the home of Sheila Wheaton?” he asked.

“She lives here, but she’s not home. What’s this about?” the young woman answered.

“I’m Officer Larry Saunders with the Eagle Cove police, and I’m investigating a crime that happened last night. Are you related to Miss Wheaton?”

“No. I’m her roommate.”

“Does she have any family in the area?” he asked.

“Her parents live over near the school. I don’t know the exact address.”

“Do you know where your roommate may be?” he asked.

“She had a date last night and never came home.”

“Is that unusual?”

“It didn’t seem right last night. I thought when she left that she would break up with him.”

“Do you know who she was out with?”

“Yes. It was Roger Clark.”

“Thank you so much for your help. I’ll be in touch if I have more questions,” Larry said while handing her his card.

He returned to his car and ran a search for any Wheaton’s who lived near the school. His search returned one result very near his own home. Starting the car, he drove away from the curb, heading to what he presumed would be the address of the victim’s parents. When arriving at the home, he parked in front of a house resembling his own, only two blocks from the school. He got out, walked to the door, and rang the bell. It was answered by a pleasant-looking woman about forty years old with platinum blond hair, wearing a robe and clutching a cup of coffee. She quieted the dog inside, pushing the door open just far enough to keep it from escaping.

“Good morning,” he said. “I’m Officer Larry Saunders with the Eagle Cove police. Is Sheila Wheaton your daughter?”

“Why yes. What is this about?”

“Mrs. Wheaton, may I come in to talk with you?”

“Sure. Just let me put Cocoa in another room,” she said while closing the door, leaving Larry standing on the stoop.

Moments later, she returned to the door with a man resembling her in age. Larry presumed it was her husband. Reaching out to shake his hand, he introduced himself.

“I’m Joe Wheaton,” he said. “Is there a problem with Sheila?”

“May we sit down?” Larry asked.

Mrs. Wheaton showed him into the living room, where they all took seats. Larry perched on the edge of his chair, making eye contact with the parents of his murder victim. “I’m sorry to tell you that your daughter has died.”

The Wheaton’s just stared at Larry in disbelief. The lack of emotion confused Larry momentarily as the shock of hearing his news wore off, and both began to break down. “What happened?” Joe Wheaton asked.

“I’m afraid she was killed last night on the beach,” Larry answered. “I’m investigating to get to the bottom of it. Do you know her boyfriend, Roger?”

“Yes, but I thought she was ending it with him,” Mrs. Wheaton sobbed, wiping her tears away with the sleeve of her robe.

“Evidence suggests that Roger may have killed your daughter. We have him in custody,” Larry responded. “Do you know of any reason he would want to hurt her?”

Joe went into a complete emotional breakdown, standing and excusing himself. Mrs. Wheaton continued to cry without leaving her seat. “He was madly in love with Sheila, but she didn’t feel the same about him,” she said.

“I’m sorry for your loss,” Larry said. “I’ll do everything possible to bring the person who did this to justice.” Larry hesitated as the victim’s father returned to the room, offering his wife a tissue. “I will be in touch if I have any further questions. Your daughter is at the Plymouth County Medical Examiner’s office. They will contact you to have you come in for an identification. Is there anything I can do for you right now?”

“No. Thank you for coming to let us know,” Joe said, standing to show Larry out.

Larry idled at the curb before taking the driver’s license picture to the witness to identify the guy who bumped into her at the beach parking lot. He looked at his notes and programmed his GPS for her address. Driving deep in thought, he journeyed to her address halfway between Eagle Cove and Plymouth. Parking in front, he assumed it was the home of her parents. The upscale neighborhood told him he might be met at the door by someone other than the witness he hoped to speak with.

He was happy to see the young woman he had met last night come out the door to meet him as he walked up the sidewalk.

“Well, good morning,” he said, looking her up and down. “You look much better this morning. Are you doing okay?”

“Yes,” she replied. “That situation last night had to be one of the worst experiences of my life. You should have seen my mother’s look when I showed up at home in a hazmat suit.”

“I can only imagine. I have some pictures to show you. Would that be okay?”

“Sure.”

Larry produced copies of several driver’s license photos, including that of the suspect in custody, asking her to identify the guy last night.

A shiver went up her spine as she examined the photos, causing her to shake as she pointed to the image of Clark. “Did you catch him?”

“Yes, we have him in custody.”

“Did he hurt someone on the beach?” she asked.

“We believe he murdered his girlfriend.”

“That’s scary. Will I be safe?”

“Of course. When we prove he did it, he will be in prison for a long time. The evidence is strong, and it looks like I have a strong young lady as a witness that he was there,” he said with a confident smile. “I won’t take any more of your time. I appreciate your help,” he said, turning to leave.

Authors Note: This story was meant to be shared with Newsletter readers only. A glitch in the system caused it to be distributed to the entire readers list. I have added this note post edit. It is entirely a work of fiction for entertainment only. If you enjoyed the Detective Larry short story. Consider preordering the book at: https://books2read.com/MurderInEagleCove

Incredible Adventures Boca Chica and Boquete

There are no words to describe how amazing our recent adventures were. We have experienced whale watching on one other occasion without disappointment, but it was nothing compared to our recent trip to the Gulf of Chiriquí in Boca Chica.

We traveled with two other couples to Boca Chica, where we checked into our favorite resort, Regalo. Jen and I stayed at Regalo Resort on one other occasion, and we found it just as beautiful and charming as we remembered. The resort is wonderfully remote while convenient to the public pier at Boca Chica.  The proprietors, Carol and Jenni, have recently put in a pickleball court and converted the helipad into a bahio, where they host yoga retreats. They tell us that the resort is booked at capacity for most of the year, and they’re planning a minor expansion.

Regalo Resort

They employ a full-time chef, a bartender, and maid staff to serve the guests. The entire staff met us upon our arrival. They collected our bags and whisked them away to our suites while we checked in and were treated to a welcome cocktail at the bar. Dinner is typically offered in two choices, with other options for those with special diets or needs. We were given our options for dinner and asked what time we wanted to eat.

A table was set up on the pool deck for our party of six and another for the other guests in the resort. The other guests were a family of four from Florida who had spent the day deep sea fishing. They told us of the magnificent time they had and were asking Carol how they could transport their catch back to Florida. This seemed to me a near impossibility, but Carol was preparing their fish for the trip, packing it in a cooler with ice.

The resort can arrange any adventure from the public pier at Boca Chica. On our prior trip, we did an island-hopping boat tour with an excellent captain, Victor. Our tour started on Isla Bolanos, where we could swim and soak in the wondrous sights and sounds of the Gulf of Chiriquí. The second stop was Isla Paridas, where we enjoyed a great lunch. It was the only island with commerce. We saw just one small house serving drinks and fresh seafood, so we took the opportunity to restock our cooler and have Red Snapper served with salad, rice, and patacones. Following lunch, we swam on the beautiful beach before heading to our third island, Isla Gomez. It was a tiny, uninhabited island with a perfect beach. We did not have to share this island with anyone else. Captain Victor gave us an hour to swim and enjoy the beach before returning us to the pier at Boca Chica.

That day, we shared the boat with a Panamanian family. The couple and their well-behaved children were bi-lingual and spoke English to us. They ended up joining us for dinner at Regalo. It’s no surprise that they have become lifelong friends. It always amazes us how welcoming and friendly the Panamanian people are.

After returning to the pier, we walked around a bit in the village. There was truly little to see and do there. Boca Chica is a basic little town of fishermen and tourist boat excursions. This is a popular destination for whale watching. The whales migrate to the Gulf of Chiriquí from August to October. This is where whales give birth because of its safe, warm waters. Otherwise, everyone there had an agenda of fishing, sightseeing, or scuba diving. This was not whale season, so we saw no whales on our excursion. There were no cute little shops or restaurants, so we returned to Regalo for a relaxed evening meal with our new friends.

Our priority on this trip to Boca Chica was to see whales. From July to October, the humpback whales arrive in the Gulf of Chiriquí after their long journey from Antarctica to have their young and teach them to survive. The waters here are perfect for breeding as they must be warm and safe. This offers well-being and protection to their babies, who must be born with fat to resist the cold temperatures.

Adult males measure between 12 and 14 meters, somewhat smaller than females. An adult humpback whale can measure between 15 and 18 meters and live up to 50 years. Its weight ranges between 25 and 40 tons.

On Tuesday, we went to the pier, where we met our guide for the day, Jay. He proved to be an expert at finding whales. Although the location of the whales is sometimes tricky, Jay knew where to go and gave us the show of a lifetime.

Our day included a stop at Isla Paridas, where we had stopped on our previous adventure, to have a delightful lunch of fresh langostinos (shrimp).

Our day ended at the resort, where we swam in the beautiful infinity pool, enjoying drinks prepared and served by the bartender while the chef prepared another delightful meal.

My Filet Mignon with mashed potatoes and salad.

After extreme adventuring, we visited with our gracious hosts, and all turned in early. Carol and Jenni posed for a fan photo. We don’t often endorse or recommend places unless we would return. This is a place we will return again and again. See my September 11, 2023, issue 154 Newsletter for a link to this magnificent place.

Jenni and Carol

I would be remiss if I didn’t say here that the breakfast at Regalo is delightful and included in the price for a night. They served fruit and a breakfast selection with juice and fresh coffee from the Chiriquí highlands of Boquete both mornings. One of the couples we traveled with arranged an extra day in Boquete to tour a local coffee finca (farm).

Following our delightful breakfast on Wednesday morning, we drove to Boquete. The drive was beautiful and relatively short. If you’ve ever driven in Panama, you know the roads in parts of the country are not so great. The Inter-Americana Highway from Santiago to David is relatively new and in excellent shape.

On our initial trip to Boquete, we journeyed in one day. The entire trip is about 400km, taking approximately five hours without stops. We’ve been there three times with no shortage of adventure stories.

Boquete is a small mountain town in Panama. It’s located in the westernmost Province of Chiriquí, about 60 kilometers (37 mi) from the border with Costa Rica, and lies on the Caldera River in Panama’s green mountain highlands. Because of its elevation of 1,200 meters (3,900 ft) above sea level, its climate is cooler than the lowlands. Its scenic location, temperature, and natural environment make it popular with Panamanians and attracts tourists and retirees from all over the world.

Archaeological studies support the idea that Boquete’s history started between 300 AD to 600 BC. In this region, you can find petroglyphs (prehistoric rock carvings) that are evidence of the ancient settlements in the area. During the Spanish colonization, the highland area was an isolated refuge for the indigenous tribes like the Ngöbe and the Misquito due to the topographic terrain. The colonization of Boquete began in the second half of the nineteenth century by locals from Bugaba, Gualaca, and David and foreigners from Yugoslavia, France, Germany, and other European countries. Colonizers also arrived from the United States, starting the first coffee plantations and agricultural farms. In Spanish, the word Boquete means ‘gap or opening.’ It was through this gap that curious gold seekers trekked, looking for a cheaper and quicker way to the Pacific. By the early twentieth century, several villages had been populated: Lino, Quiel, Bajo Mono, Los Naranjos, and Bajo Boquete, which now is the town center of the district.

The town of Boquete has a population of around 25,000, including around 2500 expats from all over the world. It also has some of the most beautiful waterfalls, flowers, hundreds of bird species, butterflies, and hiking.

It should be no surprise that Boquete hosts a couple of Panama’s biggest festival celebrations. It is the perfect setting to stimulate artistic ability and creative talent, making it ideal for hosting the annual Boquete Jazz and Blues Festival.

Boquete boasts a vibrant music and arts scene. The annual Boquete Jazz Festival was founded in 2007, the second-largest jazz festival in the country after the Panama City Jazz Festival. Having been renamed Boquete Jazz & Blues Festival, it’s held annually in February. Since 2012, the event has showcased first-class international Blues acts and notable Panamanian and Latin American artists featuring Jazz and Latin American music styles. It was the first festival in Panama to do so. These entertainers are a great success! According to friends who have attended the festival, it features outstanding talent. As people walk about, they say there are smiles on every face, dancing, and great fun. This has been described as a great community event for all.  My information tells me the festival is moving from Boquete in 2024 to the Buenaventura Resort on the Pacific Riviera.

The Boquete Flower Festival has been held annually from around January 11th through the 21st since 1984. Our good friends attended the festival, and this is how they described what they found. The festival is held in the Feria grounds on the east bank of the Boquete River near an old cable suspension bridge. The bridge is indeed an engineering wonder as, despite its dilapidated condition, it still stands and carries traffic. They found a festival atmosphere with at least 200 stalls. Local artisans displayed everything from local native costumes to coffee, handicrafts, food, beer stands, and magnificent flowers. The army of gardeners had done a masterful job keeping the 30,000-plus blooms bright and well-watered despite the drying winds and tropical sun. Given the altitude and climate, it was apparent that the organizers had gone to great lengths to pick the most attractive and durable plants. Our friends saw everything from petunias and pansies to beautiful bright chrysanthemums. In the center, they found a display by the local orchid society. These blooms were indeed the jewel in the Feria’s crown and as exotic and exquisite as the orchid name implies.

On their drive from David north to Boquete, they noticed, with the change in climate from hot and humid to cool and refreshing, multicolored flowers were abundant along the roadside and in the ditches. It was easy for them to understand why Boquete is Panama’s flower capital. They also told me that missing the vegetable display would have been tragic. The abundant vegetables in the area are responsible for the fantastic food found in the restaurants locally. Based on my experience, Boquete always has something great to enjoy.

Visitors to Boquete are frequently invited to visit the Tuesday Market because it is such an integral part of the community. The Tuesday Market activities have been a big success, both commercially speaking and in integrating the locals and the expatriates working side by side. Any Tuesday visit to Boquete must include a visit to the Market. We have visited there on two previous occasions.

The last time we were there, we took a hike on the Pipeline Trail, explored the countryside, and hiked the hanging bridges of Tree Trek. We were traveling with my writing group, and Detective Larry was conceived at the same hotel where we stayed on this trip. I am anxious to share the first of the Detective Larry Saunders Mysteries, Murder in Eagle Cove. It is scheduled for release on November 1st, 2023. Newsletter subscribers are getting advance notice of special events and some surprises. Subscribing to the Newsletter is simple and free. You likely received an invitation to subscribe when you opened this blog post. If you didn’t get the invitation or skipped over it, send me a private message. Include your name and email address so I can add you to the distribution list.

Our agenda for this visit was to enjoy some outstanding local restaurants and take an excursion to the top of Volcan Baru. The Volcan excursion was one I never thought we would be able to do. The journey to the top is at least a four-hour hike in each direction. For an old, out-of-shape senior citizen, this is unattainable. Fortunately, we found a tour company offering transportation to the summit by four-wheel drive ATV.

We arrived in town with time to explore before stopping at a local favorite, Big Daddy’s, for lunch. After a relaxing lunch, we went to Boquete Garden Inn for the next two nights. The inn has a happy hour at six every evening and a complimentary breakfast each morning. We settled into our rooms and met our fellow travelers for a glass of wine in the hotel’s delightful bar. Our dinner reservations were at The Rock. It’s considered one of the finest restaurants in town. I may get hate mail for this, but let’s say it’s not likely to be a place where I would return. Our dinner bill was the highest of our adventure, and it was just average food. The highlight of the experience was a marshmallow roast at the firepit in the outside dining area after our meal.

We met our tour operator on Thursday morning in front of the inn at 3:30 a.m. The early departure meant we would drive to the summit of Volcán Barú in the dark to see the sunrise over the Caribbean if the weather cooperated.

Volcán Barú, also called Volcán de Chiriquí, is an active stratovolcano and the tallest mountain in Panama, at 3,474 meters (11,398 ft) high. It is about 35 km (22 mi) from the border of Costa Rica. It’s also the twelfth-highest peak in Central America.

Due to its height and the narrowness of the isthmus of Panama, it is possible (though relatively rare) to see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from Volcán Barú’s peak on a clear day.

The small town of Volcán is at the base of Volcán Barú. The erosion of a small river there exposed an ancient forest below, dated to about 1000 years old. Volcán Barú is surrounded by a fertile area of cool highlands drained by the Chiriquí Viejo and Caldera Rivers. The towns of Volcán and Cerro Punta can be found on its western side, while Boquete is on the eastern flank.

The occasional fall of hail or ice pellets has been reported on the summit, where the minimum temperature can be below 0 °C (32 °F), and frost formation is frequent during the dry season. The peak is host to a large installation of broadcast towers.

It has been determined that El Barú volcano is active and part of the extension of the Central American Volcanic Arc in Panama. In 2006, an earthquake swarm was registered in the Volcán Barú area. This was not the first; researchers cite at least three other seismic events recorded recently (1930, 1965, 1985).

In 2007, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), in cooperation with Panama’s Science, Technology, and Innovation Secretariat (SENACYT) and the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID), published a study on different aspects of Volcán Barú. The report outlined potential hazard areas, rock composition, and areas affected by previous eruptions; there is evidence that during the last eruption, which occurred in the 16th century, the debris avalanche deposits covered an area reaching as far as the Pacific Ocean (the largest documented in Central America and nearly ten times the area covered by the Mt. St. Helens debris avalanche in 1980).

Data collected at several locations from four previous eruptions during the last 1600 years indicate that a new eruption would last several years, putting population and costly infrastructure at risk in the areas surrounding the volcano. Typical events during such volcanic episodes include pyroclastic flows, super-heated gas clouds rapidly descending the volcano’s east flank, conceivably reaching as far as Boquete, Alto Boquete, and the Caldera River, and fallout of ash and other particles ranging in size from dust to one-meter blocks, known as tephra, causing fires, roof collapses, water contamination, crop damage and eye and lung irritation, especially among elders and infants. A third type of event, mud and debris flows, known as lahars, create landslides, obstruct river courses, and could have long-term effects in the zone. The severity of these events is directly related to the lava flows and their interaction with underground water deposits.

The volcano was declared Volcán Barú National Park in 1976, with an area of 14,325 ha (35,400 acres). It’s a part of the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor. Fauna includes the black guan, black-and-white hawk-eagle, Underwood’s water mouse, volcano junco, wren thrush, and yellow-thighed brush finch. Over 250 species of birds have been identified within the park, and all five species of big cats live here as well. The national park protects various habitats, including humid montane forests, low humid montane forests, and montane rainforests.

The park’s most popular hiking trail is the Sendero Los Quetzales (Los Quetzales Trail), which connects Boquete with Cerro Punta and wraps around the side of the volcano. The trail takes around 6 hours to hike. There is another trail to the top of the volcano, but this is long, steep, and strenuous.

On our visit, we could see the Pacific coast clearly while clouds shrouded the Caribbean side of the volcano. The summit is the only destination in Panama where there has ever been snow. It was about 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit) when we reached the top. There was no snow, but the 25-mph wind was unforgiving. The volcano has seven craters, which are all visible from the top. The Volcan Baru National Park allows only fifteen vehicles to make the ascent to the summit daily, and there were two others there on Thursday morning. The road to the top is roughly thirteen km of extreme rocks and ruts. Our driver, Melissa, was very skilled and delivered us safely to the top and back. The park only allows qualified, experienced drivers to make the journey. We followed another driver from her company in both directions. The two groups included our group of six, another guy who paid for a private tour, two drivers, and a guide. There was one stop along the way to clear rocks from the road for passage. I understand that hikers can no longer hike up in the dark of night. Camping at the summit is also no longer allowed. I believe the other tour company delivered some individuals to the top who would make the hike down. In any case, it is a challenging hike for even the most experienced hikers.

While at the top, our tour operator made us breakfast while we stood in awe of the magnificent sunrise views and the surrounding vistas. The trek was about two hours in each direction. Each time a vehicle makes the trip to the top, it is taken immediately for a complete inspection. She says replacing the tires, shocks, and brakes is commonly a short cycle. The ride down was a bit more daunting than the ride to the top. One of our fellow travelers arrived at the bottom with bruised ribs from the descent.

I cultivated some of the history and geography from Wikipedia, while some came from our guide.

Our dinner plans on Thursday night took us to RetroGusto. This was one of the best meals of the week, in my opinion. I rarely share pictures of food, but the image below is of my entree. I enjoyed the smoked pork chop. I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting Boquete. The restaurants in Boquete are a treat, and we all wished we could experience more of them. We have been to RetroGusto on one other trip to Boquete, and the experience both times was delightful.

The smoked Pork Chop
The smoked Pork Chop

On a previous trip there, we enjoyed Mesa Azul, which we recommend. We enjoyed a great meal at George’s Grill on our first trip. I related a great story in the first edition of 2 Retire In Panama? from George’s, but some readers had terrible experiences there, so I will refrain from recommending it.

Friday morning, we enjoyed a delightful breakfast at the Boquete Garden Inn before checking out and heading home. This hotel has been renovated and remains a favorite place in Boquete. We always find great new friends while visiting. On our drive back to Coronado, we found Dona Gladys. This was a stop Jen and I made on our first trip to Boquete, and I stated in the first edition of 2 Retire in Panama? that I didn’t think we would ever find it again.

I always recommend spending several months on the ground here in Panama before deciding where to retire. The consensus of our group was that Boquete is a beautiful place to visit for many reasons, but a little damp and cool. We’re pretty happy living in the beach community of Coronado. Go and explore the country and draw your own conclusion.

Our next great adventure is less than two weeks away. We are traveling to the Mayan Riviera of Mexico, near Cancun. We plan to visit Tulum and enjoy other sites near our resort. Watch for posts on social media in the weekly newsletter, and be sure to return to read our next blog post. If you’ve yet to subscribe to this blog or the newsletter, please do it. I have kept the content free and have never spammed my readers. We love you all and love sharing our adventures.

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Is there violent crime in Panama?

Jen and I went to dinner with our good friends, Mike and Diane, to celebrate one last meal with them at one of our favorite places in the community. They were returning to the States after concluding the sale of their condo. They decided to downsize to only one home and simplify their life.

After settling into our seats, we enjoyed our meals and relaxed in great conversation about some of the adventures and things we have experienced as friends here. True friends are friends for life, and we’ll continue to embrace their friendship across the miles, looking forward to their visits back to Panama or our visits to see them in the U.S.

Mike and Diane at Cafe Med

Our celebration was an experience none of us will soon forget. As the evening evaporated in delightful food and conversation, we were lost in our time together. As near as I can recall, it was nearly nine thirty when Diane gasped, looking toward the entrance to the restaurant. “This can’t be good,” she said. I glanced over my shoulder to see two armed thugs enter dressed entirely in black, covered from head to foot. Only their eyes were visible through their disguises. The two began screaming and yelling in Spanish, creating a ruckus in the restaurant. I have to interject here that I cannot accurately recount how much time passed or what exactly was transpiring as my back was to most of it.

They took cell phones and things easily accessible and visible off tables while the guests sat in horror. At one table in my field of vision, a patron fought with one who was trying to take his wife’s purse. The guy was forced to the ground after being assaulted by the gunman. The owner was robbed. The entire event was scarcely moments before the owner began shouting back in Spanish, getting in the face of one of the perpetrators. At our table, my phone was all that was taken. I witnessed several other patrons hiding their wallets and purses.

As the two ran from the restaurant, another patron produced a weapon and chased them. He hollered at them in Spanish before firing shots as they climbed the fence across the street. The restaurant is an open garden with a clear street view through the plants and greenery. I saw the patron firing at them, but I cannot say with certainty if he fired all four shots or if some were return fire. Based on my perception of the sound of the shots, all four were fired from the same weapon.

I suspect someone had dialed the police relatively soon in the ordeal because they arrived quickly. They began tracking the perpetrators, climbing the fence, and finding blood before recovering the items taken. One police officer was injured climbing the fence where the perps disappeared. The responding officers worked to recover the stolen property while others took statements from patrons. They disarmed the shooter and treated him respectfully as he helped translate between the English-speaking patrons and the Spanish-speaking law enforcement.

The following day, we went to the Department of Judicial Investigation (DJI) to claim my stolen cell phone. It was then that I realized how much of the harrowing event I could not recall. I credit God with our veil of protection, which kept us safe. It may have been that veil of protection that affected my recount or something else, but adrenalin surged through my body while I paid the bill and gave my statement to the police officers at the scene. I blamed that adrenaline rush on my fatigue as the week progressed.

DJI was friendly and welcoming. They provided an interpreter for me as I was asked to give my statement in my native language (a right of all victims in Panama). I signed a document warning of providing false testimony, another informing me of my rights as a victim, and a form releasing and returning my property, which had been taken. I was asked to provide a fingerprint at each place I signed. They informed me of the apprehension of one of the perps and that the other was known and being pursued. This information gave me more comfort than the return of my cell phone.

DJI is the bridge between the initial police response and the investigation for prosecution of a crime. They are an arm of the Fiscalia (Attorney General’s Office). If DJI responds to the scene of a crime, they will conduct an initial investigation. However, they cannot conduct a full or follow-up investigation unless you go to the local Denuncia Center and file an official report. Filing a Denuncia is the ONLY way to open a case and get a tracking number. Once you have filed a Denuncia and obtained a Denuncia number, you can use that number to follow up on the status of your case.

The police response in Panama is different than in the United States.  The police will respond to provide immediate assistance and protection to victims, will arrest suspects if they are still on the scene or nearby (assuming they have probable cause that the suspect indeed committed a crime), and, if necessary, call for DJI investigators (see more about DJI above).  The Police will NOT take a report or conduct a follow-up investigation.  They may take some data for statistical purposes but are not empowered to file reports or conduct investigations.  If your call to the police is not timely (i.e., when the crime is discovered), there is little the police can do.  If you delay reporting the crime, or if it is minor, you should go straight to DJI.

Investigating a case takes 2 to 4 months, and prosecution can take years.

In addition to reporting crime to Panamanian authorities, U.S. citizens are encouraged to provide information on criminal incidents to the U.S. Embassy. This information will assist the embassy in tracking crimes against U.S. citizens in Panama and following up with authorities.

When reporting a crime to the American Citizen Services unit of the Consular Section, please provide the following information by email to panama-acs@state.gov or by visiting their website and clicking on the crime report link, which you should find on the website. The following information will requested:

·         U.S. Passport Number of victim

·         DJI Report Number and Date Filed

·         Type of Crime Committed

·         In-depth narrative of the crime you were the victim of, including the following information:

a.       Crime location (province, city/area, neighborhood, etc.)

b.      Number of US Citizens affected.

c.       Date and approximate time of day the crime took place.

d.      The monetary amount of valuables/objects taken/destroyed (if applicable)

e.       Action taken after the crime was committed (police report, etc.)

I wanted to share the victim rights offered in Panama. I spent a great deal of time looking for a good translation of the rights provided by the law here. Jen located this website, and I’m sharing a document from it.

The rights of crime victims in Panama

Victims’ rights are special guarantees granted to those who have suffered harm due to crime and serious human rights violations.

Human rights are rights inherent to all human beings, without distinction of nationality, place of residence, sex, national or ethnic origin, color, religion, language, or any other condition; we all have the same human rights without discrimination.

According to Panamanian criminal legislation, victims have the following rights:

  • The right to receive medical, psychiatric or psychological, spiritual, material, and social care when required in the cases provided by law.
  • The right to intervene as a complainant to demand the defendant’s criminal responsibility and to obtain civil compensation for the damages resulting from the crime.
  • The right to receive protection when the judge and the competent court must decide or fix the amount of a release bond or grant a personal precautionary measure instead of preventive detention in favor of the defendant.
  • The right to be informed about the course of the respective criminal proceedings and to receive explanations related to the development of the process.
  • The right to be heard by the judge when they are present at the request for dismissal of charges presented by the Public Ministry or prosecutor’s office.
  • The right to promptly receive the assets of their property or of their lawful possession seized as evidence during the criminal proceeding when they are not necessary for the process.
  • The right to receive free legal assistance from the state through a Panamanian lawyer to obtain reparation for the damage resulting from the crime and to cooperate with the prosecutor’s office to exercise the criminal action.
  • Any other right that the laws indicate.

On the other hand, defendants have the following rights:

  • The right to presumption of innocence
  • The right to know the reasons for their detention.
  • The right to communicate with a family member and their defense lawyer in Panama.
  • The right not to be subjected to arbitrary detention or investigative techniques that violate their dignity or alter their free will.
  • The right to an attorney
  • The right to a certified translator or interpreter if they do not understand the Spanish language.
  • The right not to testify against themselves.
  • The right to appeal.
  • The right to be brought before a court or judge promptly.
  • The right not to be discriminated against
  • The right to be treated well and to be fed.
  • The right to health in Panama
  • The right to receive periodic information about their legal situation from their private attorney, public defender, or the Panamanian Penitentiary System.

If you need to speak with a criminal defense attorney or a legal translator in the Republic of Panama, please message them at the link above.

It amazes us how many friends and relatives from near and far offered a shoulder or kind ear to listen. A special thanks go to Mitzy Casey, who held our hands, guiding us through the process at DJI, and my translator Emerson, who talked me through the forms. Thank you to the kind police officers and the Assistant Prosecutor. Thank you also goes to the other victims who remained calm in the dire situation, and Jasmine, a voice on the phone with Jen, who ensured us that her husband, Issac (a local police Lieutenant), was in the loop. Issac is an advocate for ex-pats in our community.

We recently returned to Cafe Med with friends. The decision to return to the restaurant so soon after the tragic event was healing for Jen and me, while the others agreed to support us and refuse to allow terror to victimize our ability to enjoy the home we love.  Crime like the one we experienced could have occurred anywhere.

Jon and Sue Wizarde at Cafe Med

Our return was six days following the robbery, and we found the proprietor, Franco, attempting a return to flawless service and excellent food. The place was packed to capacity by ex-pats and Panamanians in an outpouring of support and our same refusal to be terrorized.

I found this helpful information for tourists in Panama. Safety and crime information. I have copied and pasted it here to give visitors and residents a perspective on what they may expect as they travel around Panama.

Panama remains relatively safe compared to other Central American countries, yet crime rates are still higher than in most of the United States. Violent crime in Panama started to rise in 2007. However, new efforts by Panama’s National Police (PNP) to combat this trend appear to have made an impact. Beginning in June 2010, the number of homicides in the country declined and continued downward through 2012. Unfortunately, the rate of simple theft was up, with “Blackberry”-type smartphones being a particular target. The three provinces with the largest cities also had the highest overall crime rates: Panama, Colon, and Chiriqui. The entire town of Colon is a high-crime area; travelers should use extreme caution anywhere in Colon.

Police continue to conduct vehicle checkpoints at key intersections in the city to raise their visibility and hamper criminals’ movements. The high crime areas in and around Panama City are El Chorrillo, San Miguel, Santa Ana, Cabo Verde, Curundu, Veracruz Beach, Santa Librada, Rio Abajo, San Miguelito, Panama Viejo, and the Madden Dam Overlook.

Crimes are typical of those that plague metropolitan areas and include shootings, rapes, armed robberies, muggings, purse-snatchings, thefts from locked autos by breaking windows for entry, thefts of unsecured items, petty theft, and occasionally “express kidnappings” from ATM banking facilities, in which the victim is briefly kidnapped and robbed after withdrawing cash from an ATM. There has also been a recent spike in credit card and ATM fraud reports. Criminals capture credit and ATM card information to clone and create fraudulent cards. Kidnappings have been on the rise of late, including in Panama City. Many of the kidnappings appear related to drug or criminal activity.

There has also been a recent increase in thefts from cars. We encourage travelers and residents to take all valuables out of their vehicles and place them in their trunks before they get to their destinations. Drivers should keep their windows up while the car is in motion or stopped in traffic, at traffic lights, or at their destinations to prevent items from being stolen while driving.

Taxis are a helpful way to maneuver around Panama; however, use caution when getting into a taxi. Check that the number on the side of the taxi matches the number on the license plate. Ensuring the car is a registered taxi with a number on the side is a quick way to help prevent any incidences. Regular taxis are yellow. Also, never get into a taxi that already has a passenger and instruct the driver not to pick up any additional fares while en route to your destination. Many hotels also have “tourist taxis” that are not yellow but only pick up passengers in front of well-known hotels.

U.S. citizens are advised never to let a “helpful” stranger direct them to a particular taxi or taxi stand and always negotiate the fare before getting in to ensure a fixed price.

Regarding non-drug-related crime, using weapons (handguns and knives) in the commission of street robberies is common; however, gratuitous violence is uncommon as long as the victim complies and hands over the property. In 2013, there was an increase in violence during theft. Home burglaries and, more worrying, home-invasion robberies do appear to be on the rise, especially in the more affluent neighborhoods. Panama City has a curfew for those younger than 18 years of age that is generally from 8:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Friday and Saturday. The times are subject to change depending on your location within Panama. If you are concerned about the exact time, you may contact local police. This curfew applies to both Panamanian and foreign citizens. Under the law, students attending night classes must have a “carnet” or permit issued by the school or, if employed, a Certificate of Employment. Minors picked up for a curfew violation are subject to detention at a police station until parents or legal guardians can arrange for them to be released into their custody. Parents or legal guardians may be fined up to U.S. $50 for the first violation.

Panamanian customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Panama of items such as firearms and ammunition, cultural property, endangered wildlife species, narcotics, biological material, and food products. Contact the Embassy of Panama in Washington or one of Panama’s Consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements.

Don’t buy counterfeit and pirated goods, even if they are widely available. Not only are the bootlegs illegal in the United States, but you may also be breaking local law if you purchase them.

You are responsible for ensuring that you meet and comply with foreign entry and health requirements and possess the appropriate travel documents. Information provided is subject to change without notice. One should confirm content before traveling from other reliable sources. Information published on this website may contain errors. You travel at your own risk, and we provide no warranties or guarantees.

Visitors and residents in Panama can expect crime to be similar to any other location worldwide. My best advice is to be aware of your surroundings and protect your belongings. I have always professed to be cautious when entering a taxi, engaging in a transaction, or entering an area of higher criminal activity.

Recently, we took a tour of the El Chorrillo barrio community, where gang activity dates back to the Noriega regime. Our tour was led by a capable guide, Victor Peretz, who helped us understand the neighborhood’s people and activities. Without his guidance, we would never attempt to enter this area. While there, we witnessed the police presence, children playing in the streets, a park with people playing dominoes, and a community center that was a safe haven for children to gather. We also had the opportunity to visit a neighborhood bar and a kitchen where local food is prepared, and cooking classes are hosted. Victor pointed out the gang houses and the graffiti art. This is the neighborhood where Roberto Duran and many famous jazz and blues entertainers were born and raised. The community is the home of seven current soccer players from the Panama Soccer team.

Neighborhood History in Street Art
Gang House
Roberto Duran (street art)

This neighborhood borders the famous Casco Viejo area where the Presidential Palace is located. The Casco Viejo gentrification is pushing the borders, and we found it heartbreaking that many people in this depressed community were being driven from the homes where their families have lived for generations.

Street Food Vendor
Dominoes in the park
A neighborhood bar. The beers were $1.

The story’s moral is that we would never have experienced this area without the guidance of Victor. No visitor should go to this neighborhood alone, expecting to be safe. Likewise, no visitor should attempt to visit Colon without a capable guide. Review the list of areas in the article above before setting out on adventures.

Jen and I at Fort Lorenzo Castle near Colon

Jen and I, with numerous adventure buddies, have been to many of these areas. I have detailed these adventures in previous blog posts, my newsletter, my Facebook feed, and my book, 2 Retire In Panama. That doesn’t mean we advocate putting ourselves in danger. Use due diligence and protect your belongings. Keep your wallet and cell phone in your front pocket, and don’t wear expensive jewelry. Most of Panama is safe. Enjoy the beauty of this country, and feel free to explore.