Last year when I published my book, Jen and I had not been to Bocas. Our trip last week was one of the most anticipated adventures yet, and I was really looking forward to making more great memories with our travel buddies Lyn and Ty.
I would like to share the first paragraph or two from the Bocas Del Toro chapter of my book to set the stage.
No book on Panama would be complete without a little bit about Bocas del Toro. Jen and I have yet to explore this magnificent part of the country we now call home, but I felt compelled to write a bit about it. I shamelessly stole a bit of information about it from their official web site, bocasdeltoro.com. I think that I will be forgiven.
Several friends have visited this magnificent area and most say that the average age there is much lower than the beach area where we live. They tell me that the
islands of Bocas are a continuous party. This seems to me that it may be the place to find the party crowd. Internationalliving.com describes Bocas del Toro as the
best-kept secret in the Caribbean, and that makes it a rare off-the-radar gem indeed. Part-mainland and part archipelago, Bocas is one of Panama’s two western-most provinces, right on the busy border with neighboring Costa Rica.
On Tuesday we left our home in Coronado to drive to Albrook regional airport in Panama City to catch the 1-hour flight to Bocas Town. We allowed 4 hours for the 90-minute drive to alleviate concern about morning traffic. Waze usually works remarkably well for directing us, but on Tuesday there was a protest on the Bridge of the Americas which crosses the Panama Canal. The protest shut down the bridge and we were trapped in traffic for almost 4 hours. Our flight left before we arrived at the airport. We were fortunate to be able to rebook on the 1 pm flight and settled in at the airport coffee shop to wait. Rebooking our flight was simple but cost us $50 per couple. We contacted the property where we would be staying to let them know we would miss the water taxi which was scheduled to pick us up for our adventure. Missing the already arranged transportation cost us another $30 per couple. Another water taxi had to be ordered for us.
Upon arrival at the airport in Bocas Town we were quickly processed through and a taxi took us to the dock. Our boat captain would be there in a few minutes which gave us time to walk down the street and get soft drinks and chips at a deli. Our ride on the water taxi from Bocas to our accommodations on Isla Bastimentos took about 45 minutes, so it was nice to have the chips and drinks. We had all had light breakfasts and no lunch.
It was a beautiful sunny day, and we were all dreaming of a nice swim and getting settled in our cabanas. We were met on the dock by a friendly crew who gave us a bit of information and showed us to our cabanas. We ordered drinks and changed into our swimsuits. After the day we were having the swim was delightful. We were told that dinner was at 8pm so when it started getting dark, we went to shower and met back in the dining area to play dominoes with Lyn and Ty. We also spent a little time trying to plan our excursions. Snorkeling, visiting a native village, and a tour to the organic cacao farm were all high on our list. One snorkeling adventure promised dolphins.
Dinner was delightful and we were all so hungry that we scarfed our food and went to bed. The beds in our cabanas were protected by mosquito netting. I also opted to use Deep Woods Off the entire time which proved minimally effective toward the end. We were deep in the jungle and the actual amenities were sparse at best. We had water sometimes and no outlets in our cabana except for a USB port. At least we were able to keep our phones charged. The only thing a phone is good for deep in the jungle of Bastimenos is the camera. We took a lot of pictures. We were getting a great dose of data detox. It was possible to get an internet connection with a 20- minute walk up the beach, and we did check in on Facebook and looked at e-mail a couple of times.
If you think that the end of our woes was when we missed our flight you are sadly mistaken. Once we settled into our beds under the mosquito netting it started to rain. It rained almost the entire time we were there. That gave us time to play more dominoes, card games and feed the mosquitos. Every time the rain stopped, we tried to get an adventure in, but the mud and humidity were unbelievable. I am trying to spin the positive stuff out of our adventure. The problem is that our host was very inattentive and seemed to care less that our plans were being short circuited by the rain. He kept to a strict schedule of breakfast at 8 am, lunch at 1 pm and dinner at 8 pm. Our drinks, excursions and meals were included, but getting a drink other than mealtime proved difficult. He said help yourself, but there was not much to choose from.
Now that I have climbed off my soap box let me tell you about what we did manage to do…The first excursion we took was to a native Ngäbe-Buglé village. The Ngäbe-Buglé are one of Panama’s largest indigenous tribes. The boat ride to the village was spectacular, winding through mangrove waterways and taking in the jungle all around. We were expecting an experience like the Embera Village we had visited in 2018, but what we found was heartbreaking. The village was impoverished and rundown, with most of the homes and inhabitants living in conditions like any other slum in the country. We were able to purchase some hand-crafted jewelry and paid for a tour of the village. The tour guide showed us around and told us a little about the background of the tribe. We later learned that many of the boat captains and kitchen staff at the place we stayed were from the tribe. We tried to make sure that we tipped them well when we left on Saturday morning.
On Thursday we arranged to visit the organic cacao farm. The farmer had come to the island over 20 years ago to surf. He ended up buying 10 acres and a small stretch of waterfront called Wizard Beach on the surf side of the island. The piece of land is on the top of the highest hill on the island and when he bought it it was nearly bare. Over the years he has reforested and farmed the land which supplies most of the necessary food for his family and some amazing cacao. He also grows coffee and spices which his wife uses to operate a small coffee café on the site. A small shop offers spices and chocolate along with herbal soaps, shampoos, and lotions to mention just a few. We were transported by boat to the village of Old Bank and told to follow the path and the signs that said Up In The Hill. The locals knew where we were heading and were more than happy to point the way. Once we started walking it only took a few minutes to reach the end of the sidewalk. Once the sidewalk ended the hike was along a trail for about 15 minutes on a good day. Remember, it has been raining a lot. That trail was a slippery, muddy mess and we were not prepared for it. Two of us slipped and fell in the mud on the journey, but nobody let it dampen the spirit of this amazing tour. The farmer showed us how he was producing all this amazing food and spices alongside the cacao. He also showed us how he planted bamboo and trees to protect areas of the farm creating an amazing ecosystem which supports life and animals in the jungle. At the conclusion of the tour, we were invited to sit down and enjoy many of the fruits and vegetables produced on the farm. He called it a snack, but it was a meal to us. His wife did an incredible job in the preparation. If it seems that I overused the word amazing in this paragraph, I will beg to differ with you. Every time the farmer showed us something on his little farm the passion would ooze from him as he said, “it is amazing”. If you ever get to Bastimentos, follow the signs from Old Bank to Up In The Hill. The host is amazing, and the tour is unbelievable.
We were fortunate to make it back before it started raining again. Along the way we were also fortunate to see a dolphin, although it was impossible to get a great picture. We got in a swim and cleaned up for dinner. Our shoes were all ruined but it did not really matter. The four of us managed to get in a game of cards before dinner. There was discussion about what we would do on our last day, but no decision could be made before we saw the weather on Friday morning. We turned in early with hopes of spending the day snorkeling with the dolphins at Coral Cay.
Our hopes were dashed by the wind and overnight rain. On Friday morning snorkeling was hardly advised. The boat left for the dock to pick up more guests, so we relaxed and played dominoes until it returned. By that time, it looked like it may be safe to have the captain take us on a boat tour. Right after lunch we left in the boat and he gave us a great tour of the marinas and the waterfront of Bocas Town. The entire time we were out it only rained in sprinkles, until we got about 10 minutes from the dock. It was then that we had a torrential downpour. The rain did stop by dinner. One of the highlights during dinner here was an evening visit by a monkey family. The alpha male would come into the dining to announce their arrival and then go to a little platform where mama and baby were waiting for a couple of bananas. We were able to give them bananas and take pictures. This was the first time since coming to Panama that Jen and I had an opportunity to see monkeys. With the rain having stopped, the jungle sounds were so different during the night. Jen and I had a hard time sleeping while listening to the profound sounds in the jungle all around us.
When we woke up early Saturday morning the sky was clearing, and I managed to get several pictures of an amazing sunrise. The pictures were taken from the deck of our cabana which hung out over the Caribbean. We were told that the magnificent sunrise could be better witnessed with a short walk through the jungle to the east point of the island. I opted to forgo that journey in favor of the safety of our deck. Once the sun was up, we packed in preparation for our departure.
We carried our bags to the dining area and had breakfast. Our host arranged for an early departure back to Bocas so that we could walk around town and see some of the sites. The 45-minute boat ride back was rough and the wind on the ocean was a bit chilly. Once we arrived at the dock, we could store our bags while we walked around the streets of the busy little port. Bocas Town is on the Isla Colon, and is the hub of activity for the nearby islands. We witnessed a ferry unloading fuel trucks and groceries before walking down the streets just coming alive on this early Saturday morning. After our walk about town, we returned to the dock to wait for our taxi to the airport.
We made some amazing new friends on our trip. There was a family from Spain, a young couple from Poland, a couple of doctors from the Dallas area, students from Muskegon, MI, and the family from Virginia with whom we shared our Cacao farm tour. People go to the islands here to surf, snorkel and explore, as well as investigate retiring destinations.
On the flight home I got some great pictures of the Caribbean islands and shoreline. The Caribbean shore here is almost all jungle and undeveloped. Other than the north end of the Canal zone and the Islands of Bocas, the only beach communities in Panama are on the Pacific where we live.
It is good to be home and planning another adventure. If you are enjoying my blog, please, subscribe and share it with friends. Subscribing to the blog will get a notice when I publish future posts and my weekly newsletter in your e-mail. I do not share subscriber information and vow never to spam you. Also feel free to visit our Facebook page.
Blessings From Paradise,
Greg and Jen
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